Timely planting and care of hyacinths in the open ground. Storing hyacinth bulbs

Hyacinths fill the garden with an extraordinary exciting aroma and color with their bright inflorescences the earth that has not yet awakened from its winter sleep. Achieve them lush flowering It’s not at all difficult, you just need to know some subtleties of care.

About varieties of hyacinths and their hybrids

There is a certain relationship between the color of hyacinth flowers and the color of the bulbs.

In varieties with blue, cyan and violet bulb flowers usually have purple outer scales. U white-flowered hyacinth bulbs with light gray scales, red– with dark cherry. Plants with yellow flowers have grayish-cream bulbs, and with pink– lilac.

To choose the right varieties for group planting, you need to know that not all hyacinths are the same in height and flowering time. Yellow and orange hyacinths It is not worth planting with blue and blue ones together.

They bloom on different magpies. Blue and light blue hyacinths bloom first, followed by pink, red, and purple hyacinths. And the yellow, orange and burgundy Woodstock varieties are the last to bloom, when almost all have already bloomed.

Planting hyacinths and choosing a location

Hyacinths can be planted either on open areas, and under the trees. Places with close groundwater are not suitable. We will have to make bulk flower beds.

Hyacinths are planted earlier than tulips, a month before frost, at an air temperature of at least +8-9°C, so that they have time to take root properly and overwinter safely.

Each region has its own planting month. For example, since I live in the south, I plant very late: at the end of October - mid-November. In central Russia, hyacinths should be planted at the end of August - September.

The bulbs are planted at a depth equal to three times the height of the bulb, at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other.

When planting, be sure to add sand under the bottom; you can mix it with ash. I additionally sprinkle the bulbs with a mixture of sand and ash on top. The planting material is carefully placed on a sand cushion and covered with a layer of earth.

With the onset of frost, the plantings are hilled up and covered with fallen leaves or snow.

Feeding hyacinths

Hyacinths continue to grow for about 1.5 months after flowering, restoring strength and nourishing the bulb. It is best to feed liquid fertilizers, choose a cloudy day so that the leaves do not get sunburned.

The first feeding should be done when the hyacinths reach a height of 5 centimeters. Need to dissolve 15 g nitrogen fertilizer in 10 liters of water. This feeding is very important. If the hyacinth does not receive enough nutrition during this period, it will begin to consume reserves from the bulb for the growth of the above-ground part. In this case, the bulb itself will be very depleted and subsequently will not have time to recover. This means that it will greatly decrease in size and become loose.

The second feeding of hyacinths is carried out during the budding period. You can use either a complete complex mineral fertilizer, or organic fertilizer: an infusion of fermented grass or bird droppings.

The third time you need to feed the plants after flowering has ended. This fertilizer must contain potassium. I use monopotassium phosphate, it dissolves well in water.

Digging and storing hyacinth bulbs in winter

Mandatory conditions for growing hyacinths are annual digging and warming of the bulbs. To set inflorescences, they need a certain temperature regime.

The plants are dug up after the end of the growing season (at this time the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, but are not yet separated from the bulb).

Dry the bulbs for 2-3 days in the shade, but always in the open air. The leaves are not cut off immediately; they are allowed to dry completely. Then the bulbs are cleaned of soil and roots, remnants of leaves and peduncles, and diseased and damaged bulbs are separated. I label each bulb according to the variety with a waterproof marker.

Before storing the bulbs, I treat them with Maxim and dry them completely.

After the bulbs have been processed and the variety is indicated on each of them, there is no fear in putting them in one box. I store it all summer in a very warm but ventilated place. The temperature should be around +28-30°C, preferably constant. Otherwise, the bulbs will not warm up properly and the flower shoot will be weak and sparse.

Before planting, I bring them home for a month - for easy cooling. After such storage, my hyacinths bloom no worse than store-bought ones, and sometimes even better.

The appearance of roots is a signal that the hyacinths are ready for planting.

Florist advice:

When buying bulbs, be careful: they must be dense and without damage.
Take the largest ones, to which the integumentary scales fit tightly, without sprouts. The bottom should be free of soft spots and dents, with the beginnings of roots.

It is difficult to take your eyes off hyacinths at the time of their flowering; this beautiful flower is also called the “flower of rain”, since in its homeland in Asia Minor it begins to bloom with the arrival of spring rains. And young Greek women decorated their hair with it on the days of their friends’ wedding celebrations.

Hyacinth loves alkaline fertilized soils; if the soil is acidic, then you need to add lime or dolomite flour when digging, and dilute the clay soil with sand. The flower develops best in a raised bed with good drainage made of broken brick, pebbles or crushed stone, because it does not tolerate waterlogging at all.

Site for this amazing plant I definitely choose a sunny, protected from strong wind place, you can plant it near bushes and under the canopy of trees. By the way, hyacinth does not like fresh organic matter; it is better to use well-decomposed humus and leaf soil.

This flower is also a big neat plant and does not tolerate any weeds near it.

It will gratefully respond to loosening the soil, and mulching will facilitate the task of weed control and subsequent care.

Watering is necessary if there is a dry spring. I feed hyacinths three times a season.

The first feeding is with a predominance of nitrogen, the second (during the formation of buds) - with complex fertilizers with a predominance of potassium, and the third (after flowering) - with superphosphate. Superphosphate can be scattered over the soil and loosened thoroughly, but I prefer Matchbox superphosphate first dissolve in small quantity hot water, and then add a little into ten-liter containers with water for irrigation. This is the necessary minimum, because the plant spends a lot of energy on flowering, and it simply needs to recover.

If a flower suddenly falls out of the socket (this problem also happens), there can only be two reasons for this. The first is an excess of moisture in the soil, the second is too early boarding bulbs, for example in late August instead of early October.

Hyacinths can be replanted annually, because the bulbs crowd each other and become smaller, but I do this once every three years. If you want to replant the plants, then after flowering you need to wait a couple of months for the bulbs to regain their strength, and then dig them up. The plant itself will tell you when to do this: the leaves will begin to turn yellow and dry out.

Sometimes during transplantation I find babies (the growth of babies in hyacinths is very slow, one or two babies appear per year). If the baby itself separates from the mother’s bulb, then I separate it, and if not, then after disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate and drying, I store the mother’s bulb in a cool, dark place (this could be a cellar, a basement, or even the bottom shelf of the refrigerator). In the fall, I plant the mother bulb with the baby, and those baby bulbs that are easily separated (which means they are ready for independent life), I plant them separately, at intervals of approximately 20-25 cm and at a depth of 20 cm from the bottom of the bulb.

Hyacinths rarely get sick. If this did happen, then you most likely bought an already infected bulb and neglected disinfection; the second reason is too acidic soil. As you can see, everything is simple, if, of course, you remember the individual preferences of the flower. Wishing everyone a speedy end to winter and luxurious spring blooms!

Lydia KOSTINA

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Hyacinth is one of the most charming plants, used both for decorating the garden and for growing in room conditions. This flower, easy to plant and care for, exudes a delicate, wonderful aroma, giving spring mood. At the same time, you can make it bloom even in winter by creating the necessary conditions.

Hyacinth: origin, appearance and main properties

The genus Hyacinth belongs to the Asparagus family, whose representatives are common in the regions Central Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean, namely the Balkans, Syria and Turkey.

The name primrose is translated from Greek as “flower of rain.”

Hyacinth is a perennial herbaceous ephemeroid (a plant with a very short growing season). The time of its growth, flowering and fruiting occurs in the spring, and during the period of hot summer, cool autumn and frosty winter, the development of the flower stops.

The large, dense hyacinth bulb has a rounded shape and is covered with thin filmy scales. Leaf blades are elongated.

Feature of the plant: during flowering, the size of the leaves is relatively short, and after the peduncle dies, they grow up to 20 cm.

The bell-shaped flowers are decorated with thin and gracefully curved petals. The buds are numerous; on one racemose inflorescence they can bloom from 12 to 35 or more pieces. IN wildlife The hyacinth corolla is usually blue or white tone, and the range of varietal flowers is very wide.

Popular varieties

Hybridizers have bred a huge number of varieties with large flowers and intoxicating aroma, differing in the size of the inflorescences, color, height of the peduncle, and timing of flowering. The most common ones include:

1. Royal Navy. Variety with double flowers rich violet shade.
2. Brooklyn. A variety with white-yellow-cream flowers with a darker center.
3. Raphael. Distinctive feature varieties have semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals.
4. Rosalia. The flowers of this variety of bright hyacinth Pink colour.
5. Ostara. Feature varieties - bright purple inflorescences and pretty long term flowering (about three weeks).
6. Woodstock. Purple-lilac hyacinth with large inflorescence.
7. Midnight Mystique. The variety is a find of the last decade. Its characteristic features are original flowers almost black in color.
8. Carnegie. A variety with magnificent snow-white flowers.
9. Fondant. Elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are shimmering with mother-of-pearl.
10. Orange Boven. The variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink perianth tips.

Photo gallery: varietal diversity of hyacinths

The Royal Navy variety is a hyacinth with double flowers of a rich purple hue. The Brooklyn variety is a delicate hyacinth with yellowish-colored flowers with a darker center. A distinctive feature of the Raphael variety is semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals. The flowers of the Rosalia hyacinth variety are bright pink. A characteristic feature of the Ostara variety is bright purple inflorescences and a fairly long flowering period Woodstock variety - purple-lilac hyacinth with large inflorescences
A characteristic feature of the Midnight Mystery variety are the original flowers of almost black color. The Carnegie variety is a fragrant hyacinth with magnificent snow-white flowers
Fondant - elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are shimmering with mother-of-pearl. The Orange Boven variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink tips of the perianths

Optimal conditions for hyacinth in spring-winter and summer-autumn: table

Planting hyacinth and features of forcing a flower in an apartment

IN natural conditions Hyacinth is a primrose that blooms in mid to late spring. But indoors, flowering can be significantly accelerated and the plant can be made to bloom by any date, for example, Christmas, New Year or March 8th. To do this, the bulbs are brought out of the “sleep” state by creating certain conditions. The process is called "forcing". Hyacinths yield to it quite easily. Luxurious fragrant flowers are easy to obtain at home.

There are two ways to grow hyacinth: in substrate or in water. The following composition is suitable as a soil mixture:

• garden soil;
• peat;
• sand

All components must be taken in equal amount and mix thoroughly so that the result is a light and loose substrate.

Hyacinth also requires good drainage; it can be made from pieces of broken brick or expanded clay.

Choosing a pot The container should be small the best option

will use pots with a diameter of 1.5 times the size of the bulb.

You can also use wider bowls if you plan to plant several plants in one bowl. In this case, select the container according to the size of the planting material; the bulbs should be positioned so that there is a distance of about two centimeters between them.

1. There is no need to replant hyacinth bought in a store. The flower can only be covered with a paper cap to make the peduncle larger. How to expel hyacinth in the ground: preparatory stage Choose large, healthy bulbs that are more than 5cm in diameter. They are usually well-ripened, meaning that
2. flower buds
3. Place a layer of drainage in the prepared container, pour coarse sand on it, which will protect planting material from decay.
4. Fill the container with the prepared substrate.
5. Drop off at soil mixture hyacinth bulb, deepening it by half or two-thirds of its height.
6. Water the soil lightly; the soil should not be soggy, otherwise rotting will begin.
7. Cover the pot with dark material, since the rooting process must take place in the dark.
8. Transfer the pot with the planted bulb to a cool room with a temperature of 5–9 o C. You can place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, intended for storing vegetables, or take it out to the balcony.

Forcing hyacinths planted in the ground

1. When the hyacinth leaves grow 8–10 cm, remove the dark cloth from the pot, move it to a bright place and start watering the plant. Thus, the time for forcing the peduncle begins, which takes 3–4 weeks. Based on this, you can predict the flowering time. For example, to get flowering for the New Year, you need to remove the hyacinth from a cool and dark place in early December.
2. The hyacinth temperature during this period should be from 10 to 20 o C. At a higher temperature, flowering will be short.
3. Accustom the plant to the temperature in the room gradually, since if conditions change abruptly, the flower will begin to grow leaves to the detriment of flowering.
4. During this period, hyacinth needs to reduce daylight hours, since in bright light the peduncle will grow short. To do this, gardeners use a cap made of dark paper or cover the plant with an opaque plastic glass (first for the whole day, then half, and then for part of the day). It is recommended to use this simple device until the peduncle rises above the leaf blades.
5. When the hyacinth begins to bloom, you can remove the cap and enjoy the flowering of the plant.

At home, hyacinth blooms for about two weeks, however, if the flower pot is moved to a cool place overnight, this period can be extended for another seven days.

An effective option: how to properly expel bulbs in water

Manufacturers often use the method of forcing hyacinth in water. You can try growing hyacinth at home this way.

1. Until September, keep the bulb at a temperature of about 25 o C.
2. Select a container that tapers at the top to about 4 cm. Small vases or special vessels for forcing hyacinths are suitable for this.
3. Place a few pieces of charcoal on the bottom to help prevent rotting. To prevent it from floating, add a layer of coarse sand on top.
4. Pour water into the flowerpot. For forcing hyacinth, it is advisable to use soft water: rain or melt.
5. Place the bulb on the neck of the container so that the distance between the bottom and the surface of the water is 1–2 cm.
6. Wrap the container with the onion in dark paper and store it in a dark and cool room with a temperature of 4–8°C.
7. Periodically inspect the bulb and add water.
8. After about two months, long roots will develop and leaf blades and inflorescences will begin to grow. At this time, you need to move the flower to a bright, warm place with a temperature of 22–25°C.

Please note that growing hyacinth requires very good lighting, otherwise the peduncle will become very elongated and will grow thin and weak.

Forcing flowers for certain dates (New Year, March 8, etc.)

If you plan to have charming hyacinths bloom on a special date, then you should plan the stages of forcing the flower in advance.

1. In order for magnificent flowers with a delicate aroma to bloom for the New Year, it is necessary to begin the preparatory stage of forcing in the middle of summer. In July, the bulbs are removed from the soil, cleared of soil and stored for two weeks at a temperature of about 25–30 o C and high humidity(approximately 90%).
2. After this, the temperature of the bulb is reduced to 20–25 o C and kept under such conditions for about two more weeks.
3. Closer to September, the planting material is transferred to a cool place with a temperature of 10–13 o C. At this point preparatory stage The forcing of hyacinth ends by the New Year, and the immediate process begins in October, when the bulbs, after a rest period, are planted in pots.
4. If you want the hyacinth to bloom in February, then forcing should begin two weeks later, in mid-October. The flower will bloom in March if the bulbs are planted in the ground or placed in water in early November.

Video: hyacinth forcing technology

How to care for hyacinth

Hyacinth cannot grow at home for several years. The bulb is forced once. At this time, it loses a lot of strength and it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve excellent flowering again. After forcing, the bulb can be planted in the garden.

Watering and fertilizing

Hyacinth is a moisture-loving flower. The plant must be watered regularly, after the top layer of soil has dried. In this case, it is recommended to pour water only along the edge of the container, since liquid getting into the axils of the leaf blades can cause the death of the hyacinth. The procedure requires soft, settled water. room temperature

. Ideally, it will be rain or melt. The flower does not need additional moisture in the form of spraying. When forcing hyacinth in water, it is necessary to periodically add it to the vessel. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to add not water, but a weak solution complex fertilizer

. For feeding, you can use a universal preparation for bulbous plants, diluting the solution at half the dose recommended by the manufacturer. Hyacinths grown in earth mixture , also respond well to feeding. The color of the flowers becomes brighter, and the flowering period lasts much longer. It is recommended to use universal preparations for bulbous or. beautiful flowering plants The procedure should be carried out once a week from the moment the leaves appear until the plant fades.

After this, feeding should be stopped completely.

Features of caring for the plant after flowering

After the hyacinth flowers wither, the peduncle should be trimmed. During this period, you should completely stop feeding, but continue to water the flower until the leaf blades turn yellow. During this period, the number and volume of watering must be reduced by approximately half. There is no need to cut off yellowed leaves; they should die off naturally.

How to provide hyacinth with a dormant period When the leaf blades wilt, remove the bulb from the pot. Dry it for five to seven days in a well-ventilated place at a temperature of about 20–22°C. After this, remove all dead scales and trim the roots. Provide the hyacinth bulb with a period of “sleep”, which should last approximately 3 months. During forcing, the bulb is greatly depleted and cannot be subjected to the procedure again.

The plant can be planted in the garden in August and enjoy its flowering for several more seasons.

Methods for treating and preventing diseases and pests: table

Hyacinth is practically not affected by diseases and pests, but only if the planting material is healthy and the plant care is correct. Sometimes when unfavorable conditions the flower can be damaged by yellow bacterial rot, and hyacinth pests can attack root mites, stem nematode

Spray the plant with Fitoverm, Akarin (according to the instructions). Before planting, disinfect planting material and tools.

Propagation of hyacinths at home Exist various ways reproduction of hyacinths: baby bulbs, bulb scales and seeds. As a rule, amateur gardeners use only vegetative methods

, and seed is used by hybridizers to breed new varieties.

During natural reproduction, an adult specimen produces only 1–2 children per year (in rare cases, 3 or 4). They are separated from the mother bulb when dug up after flowering. The number of children can be increased by making a crosswise notch on the bottom with a depth of about 5 mm. In a year, such a bulb will produce twice as many children, which, after digging and drying, must be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction by scales - step-by-step master class

How to propagate hyacinth from seeds

Hyacinth is propagated by seeds, planting them in the garden. It is very difficult to create the necessary conditions indoors, so this method has not taken root among lovers of indoor floriculture.

Hyacinth is ornamental plant, as if it came down to us from a vintage picture. After all, it attracts not only its amazing beauty, but also an extraordinary aroma! About what is planting and caring for fabulous hyacinths planted in open ground, as well as what varieties and methods of propagation exist, and, finally, how these flowers are used in landscape design and which plants are best combined with, you will find out in the article!

Description: varieties and varieties of hyacinths

The amazing hyacinth flower with the most delicate colors and captivating aroma is one of the first to begin to bloom in spring garden, driving gardeners crazy with their colorful and fragrant inflorescences. Rich color palette ranging from snow-white and yellowish to burgundy and resin-colored, complemented by the amazing shape of the inflorescences, it amazes the imagination. It’s not for nothing that hyacinth is called a universal plant: this rain flower is perfect for planting in the ground and early forcing in greenhouses. You will learn further about how to plant and care for the plant, what propagation methods exist and how picturesque hyacinths are used in landscape design!

Hyacinths have many colors and shades

The homeland of hyacinths is Asia Minor and Greece. Here you can find wild flowering plants at every step. The flowers owe their popularity largely to Holland, where famous breeders were actively involved in their cultivation. This is where many hybrid varieties that came to our country come from. By the way, about varieties. Information from sources varies, but, as breeders assure, there are at least three types of hyacinths in nature:

• Transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus);
• Litvinova (Hyacinthus litwinowii);
• eastern (Hyacinthus orientalis), which became the ancestor decorative varieties this plant.

Oriental hyacinth

Blooming only once per season, hyacinths are usually distinguished according to the timing of flowering: a garden crop can be early, mid and late flowering.

In the middle zone of our vast country, delicate hyacinths bloom early, making worthy company with the first tulips. Weather, inherent in a particular region, can shift the flowering time by 2-3 weeks, so these plants are considered very sensitive to climate and air temperature. The duration of the flowering process is from 7 to 15 days, again taking into account whether the weather is favorable or not.

Planting a plant

Plant hyacinths in the ground in the fall

Important! When choosing the moment to plant, first make sure that the plant's bulbs can take root before frost. This will increase all chances of wintering, and already next spring your garden will be filled with colorful and fragrant hyacinths. If you plant flowers too early, you may not see shoots: the bulbs will simply die. But too late planting threatens that the bulbs will not have time to form their root system, and the soil will already freeze.

When choosing a place for planting, remember that the homeland of capricious hyacinth is warm countries, therefore they should be planted on sunny and windless hills, having prepared the soil in advance. The flower makes special demands on it: the soil must be permeable with a considerable content of humus. However, it is better not to resort to using fresh and slightly decomposed humus. If the soil is dense and clayey, then it is mixed with peat and sand. On soil with high acidity, a gardener will not be able to grow a luxurious flower bed, so such soil will have to be diluted with limestone or chalk.

Soil liming

Attention! The soil for planting is dug up to a depth of 40 cm, mixed with mineral and organic fertilizers, if necessary, add lime. Then the soil is leveled and covered with film in anticipation of planting. This will prevent weeds from appearing.

Before planting, the material is carefully examined. It is better to get rid of soft and diseased bulbs immediately. For planting, use medium-sized bulbs, since the plants grown from them will be easier to withstand bad weather, but larger bulbs are more suitable for forcing.

Hyacinth bulbs

Hyacinth bulbs are planted to a depth of 15-17 cm at a distance of 15 cm from each other. If the baby is small, then the depth and distance will have to be slightly reduced. Having completed the planting work, the soil is sprinkled with a mulch layer (sawdust, peat, fallen leaves), and after the temperature drops to 0ºC and persistent cold weather appears, it is covered with a film or other covering material, which is then removed. in early spring when the ground thaws a little.

Hyacinth care

Delicate and quivering hyacinths used in landscape design are very demanding to care for, therefore Special attention Care should be taken to keep the soil around the seedlings clean. Periodically it loosens. This will help create the plant favorable conditions growth. If your hyacinths are not happy abundant flowering, then the soil is probably not moistened enough.

Be sure to loosen the soil around hyacinths

Hyacinths love water very much, they especially need moisture during the dry season. During its growing season, the plant requires feeding, and culling is considered a mandatory preventive measure, which is carried out 2-3 times per season. The peduncle is not torn off by hand, but carefully cut off with a knife; if you do not plan to cut the hyacinths at all, then the wilted flowers are torn off and the peduncle is left.

Fertilizer and feeding of hyacinths

The key condition for growing flowering plants is regular feeding. First time mineral supplement occurs in early spring, when sprouts are just beginning to appear. Superphosphate, ammonium nitrate or potassium chloride can be used as fertilizers. With the formation of the first buds, the plant is fed a second time using the same fertilizers. The crop is fed the third time after flowering, when the hyacinth must store nutrients for the formation of renewal buds and the formation of axillary buds. Potassium is used for feeding, phosphate fertilizers, as well as potassium chloride and superphosphate, previously dissolved in water.

Advice! After making necessary fertilizers, the soil is thoroughly loosened!

To make the plant feel comfortable, it is better to mulch the soil.

Plant propagation

Typically, breeders use the seed method to breed varieties. Crops grown in this way will delight you with their colorful inflorescences only after 5-7 years. The seeds are sown closer to October in a container with soil mixed with humus and fine sand, and grown in closed greenhouses for 2 years.

The process is extremely slow natural reproduction colors. An adult bulb can form only one to three children. If the baby is easy to separate from the mother bulb, then it is grown separately, otherwise it is not broken off, but planted in the ground together with the mother bulb.

Sprouting hyacinth bulb

The bulbs selected for propagation are pre-treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (1%) and dried over the next two days.

Diseases and pests

Grown hyacinths rarely suffer from pests and are almost not susceptible to disease. However, if signs of pest damage were noticed (cessation of growth, bending of peduncles, wilting or yellowing), then the reasons may be the following:

• contaminated material was used for planting;
• unsuitable soil (waterlogged or acidic);
• excess mineral supplements;
• improper culling of bulbs for planting;
• incorrectly carried out prevention;
• violation of disembarkation rules.

Hyacinth disease bacterial rot

Of the diseases that hyacinth may encounter, the most common is bacterial yellow rot, which turns the bulbs into a slimy formation with a pungent odor. As a result of infection, the crop stops growing, and spots and stripes may form on the leaves. The diseased plant must be removed from the flower bed, and the vacated hole is carefully etched with bleach.

Hyacinths: combination with other plants

In landscape design, fabulous hyacinths go well with many spring bulbous plants that bloom around the same period as hyacinths. The most organic and picturesque tandem is formed by:

• bright blue hyacinths and sunny daffodils;
• blue hyacinths and snow-white tulips;
• orange hyacinths and scarlet tulips.

Hyacinths look great with other spring flowers.

Hyacinths in landscape design

Hyacinth – universal flower, because it is successfully grown in flower beds on open ground, in flowerpots and pots on windowsills. These look incredibly elegant flowering plants one color scheme in the company of lush and low-growing perennial crops. A garden path framed by well-groomed hyacinths, as well as trees and shrubs decorated with them, will look wonderful. Gardeners claim that it is better to plant hyacinths together with other plants so that after they bloom, the soil does not become empty.

Growing hyacinth at home: video

Hyacinths in the garden: photo

You will look at the hyacinth flowers and imagine how beautiful the flowers of paradise are, if such beauty is scattered on our sinful earth, the sensation of which is not only purely aesthetic, but almost physical - to the point of awe!

Hyacinth is part of the lily family, which includes about 30 species flower plants. Most of them grow in Mediterranean and South Asian countries. The most popular is the oriental hyacinth, widespread in Greece, Syria, Lebanon and Southern Turkey. In the south of Russia, unpretentious white and blue hyacinths are common, cultivated in summer cottages and city flower beds.

Hyacinths have been known since the times of the Roman Empire, although they became widespread in Europe only at the beginning of the 16th century, especially among elite connoisseurs of fragrant and beautiful blue flowers. Over time, from the 17th century onwards, hyacinths became the subject of professional breeding and by the early 19th century their flowering family numbered approximately 2,000 varieties. The flowers have become large, double and simple - one thing has not changed - the romantic aroma. Nowadays, in European countries there is a whole flower industry for growing hyacinths.

Bright hyacinths are a smile early spring! As soon as the frosts recede, they throw out their green “ears” from the cool soil, listen and are followed by a flower arrow filled with buds on a plump stalk, which gradually opens its amazing flowers until the entire bunch is completely revealed. Bright and delicate candles of hyacinths of various colors have been displayed for quite a long time. What a flexible flower this is: it agrees to grow and bloom even on the windowsill at home!

Growing and caring for hyacinths

Hyacinths, if possible, are best planted in sunny or half-lit areas of the site, protected from the wind. When growing hyacinths, you must remember that they prefer light and fairly loose soil, with a moderate humus content, allowing good penetration of moisture and air. The place for hyacinths should be level, but with a slight slope that does not allow precipitation to stagnate. In some cases, it is necessary to do drainage or create bulk beds, taking into account that groundwater should fall no less than 50-60 centimeters. Otherwise, the bulbs will rot and die.

After flowering of the hyacinth, it is necessary to cut off the peduncles as high as possible from the bulb, and the leaves will fall off on their own over time, so that the bulbs receive from them everything useful for further growing season. By the beginning of autumn, it is necessary to mulch the hyacinth growing area, without removing dried leaves, with ripe (two-year-old) compost. Firstly, feeding the bulbs will begin immediately in the fall; secondly, such mulching will protect the hyacinth bulbs from the winter cold. Thirdly, in the spring you will receive abundant growth and luxurious flowering of a healthy plant.

How to replant and propagate hyacinth

This is what beginner gardeners most often ask after some trial and error. In the conditions of the southern part middle zone In Russia and its southwestern territory, hyacinth bulbs are planted in the soil from September to early October-November (in the very south) - neither earlier nor later. This is due to the peculiarities of the hyacinth growing season: if you plant it earlier, it will begin to grow and die in the first frost; later, they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes.

At the beginning of November, planting hyacinths is troublesome: you need to first insulate the flowerbed with straw or leaves, plant the bulbs at least 15-20 centimeters deep with an interval of at least 15 centimeters, and cover the top from rain, snow and frosty winds plastic film, securing its edges well. For any planting method, intending to get large inflorescences in the spring, add a pinch of complex mineral fertilizer to the planting hole, sprinkle it with soil and place the hyacinth bulb.

With a good choice of location and proper care some types of hyacinths feel good and bloom annually in the same place for several years in a row, growing in a mat. But according to all the rules, it is better to change the place where hyacinth grows annually to avoid the accumulation of pests and viruses that infect them. Returning to your previous place can only happen after 3 years. This rule also applies to other bulbous plants - they have common pests and diseases. Bulbs, such as tulips, should not be planted in place of hyacinth.

When preparing for hyacinths, you need to take into account the following: the dug up soil should allow natural shrinkage, so as not to do this during rains along with the thin roots of the hyacinth bulb that has awakened to grow - they can tear. It is better to dig up the soil using two shovels, since the hyacinth roots go deep up to 50 centimeters. If the soil is clayey, add sand and peat along with humus (per 1 m2 - up to 15 kilograms), wood ash and superphosphate.

It is ideal to propagate hyacinth by children, by lateral bulbs from the mother bulb, of which several are formed around it over the summer. These bulbs are carefully separated during the hyacinth's summer dormancy period and planted in a prepared area in early autumn, where in 2-3 years they will turn into reproductive specimens and bloom.

Theoretically, hyacinth can be propagated by seeds, but in gardening practice this is almost impossible: they will bloom only after 5-6 years and there is no guarantee of reproducing parental qualities.

Pests and diseases of hyacinth

Like many plants, pests and diseases in hyacinth are a sad result improper care. Leaves turn yellow - most likely overmoistening, shading, drafts. Shade during flowering can cause leaf lethargy and elongation. Improper watering If drops get on the buds, it can cause them to not open. Violation of the dormant period can also slow down the growth of hyacinth.

Here are several reasons for hyacinths not flowering: not enough selected for forcing large bulbs; maintenance of bulbs selected for forcing with violation temperature regime(exceeding the forcing temperature by 4-5 warm degrees deforms hyacinth flowers); premature removal of bulbs to open sunlight.

Naturally growing hyacinth has almost no insect pests - it is still cool for them while it is blooming. And most of all, hyacinths suffer from yellow bacterial rot, turning the bulb into mucus with an unpleasant and pungent odor. Sick plants should be destroyed immediately. Etch the growing hole with a 5% formaldehyde solution or bleach and keep it in quarantine for several years.

- a universal plant that is suitable for open ground, early forcing indoors and decorating rockeries and alpine slides. The planting site must be prepared at least 10 days in advance so that the soil has time to settle. However optimal time to prepare the site - 2 months before planting the bulbs, i.e. in August.

When digging the soil to a depth of 40 cm, add 3-year-old humus or rotted manure at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m2, as well as sand and peat. To this add complex mineral fertilizer or a set simple fertilizers(60-80 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m2). Potassium sulfate replaces 200 g wood ash, A magnesium sulfate— 250 g dolomite flour. On sandy soils doses of potassium and magnesium fertilizers needs to be increased by 1.5 times. It is better to apply nitrogen mineral fertilizers in the spring-summer period in the form of fertilizing.

In the conditions of central Russia, it is best to plant hyacinth bulbs in late September - early October, so that they have time to take root before the soil freezes to the planting depth. When planting, sand and well-rotted compost or peat are added to the holes if it was not added during preliminary digging of the soil. With the onset of persistent cold weather, hyacinth plantings should be covered with mulching materials: dry peat, humus, sawdust, as well as dry fallen leaves and spruce branches.

Fertilizers for hyacinths can be applied dry or in the form aqueous solution. In this case, when applying a solution, you need to take slightly less fertilizer, and the soil should be well moistened beforehand.

The first feeding is given at the beginning of growth, immediately after the sprouts appear, adding 20-25 g per 1 m2 of planting ammonium nitrate and 15-20 g of superphosphate or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and nitrophoska. You can carry out this fertilizing using the dry method, scattering fertilizers over the surface of the soil around the plantings, and then incorporating them into the soil while loosening. Moreover, fertilizing should be combined with watering.

At the beginning of flowering, hyacinths are fed mineral fertilizers. The second feeding is applied dryly during the period of bud formation at the rate of 30-35 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2 of plantings. Fertilizers can also be given in dissolved form, for which 1 teaspoon of urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate and Agricola-7 are diluted in 10 liters of water. The consumption of the resulting solution is 5 liters per 1 m2.

Hyacinths can be fed with microfertilizers - boric acid(10 mg per 100 ml) and zinc sulfate (30 mg per 100 ml). These substances are highly soluble in water and quickly penetrate plant tissue, and the solution consumption should not exceed 500 ml per 10 m2. Microfertilizers are best given to plants in the phase of bud formation and flowering; it is at this time that maximum activation of physiological and biological processes occurs.

The third feeding should be given at the end of flowering, adding 30-35 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per 1 m2 of planting.

After flowering, plants need phosphorus and potash fertilizers. To obtain a solution of the required concentration in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate or 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska. The consumption of the resulting fertilizer is 5 liters per 1 m2. After each application of fertilizers, the soil is loosened with a hoe.