healthy, strong plant quickly grows tall and wide to the delight of its owners. And suddenly its lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out. Lift the pot and look under the bottom. This is true! The roots came out of the drainage hole. The pot is small and cramped for the flower. But we know that perfect time for transplantation - early spring, rest time. It is for such cases that transshipment exists.
Is transshipment necessary?
If necessary, you can transship plants throughout the year. Roots emerging from the drainage hole are only one (and the most understandable) signal for transshipment.
It happens that a flower grows very slowly, even when it is regularly fed and watered. The plant looks absolutely healthy.
You water it almost every day, the soil in the pot is always dry. It is too sure sign: There is practically no soil in the pot, only roots.
To make sure that you need to enlarge the pot, do this. Cover the soil in the pot with your 3rd palm (pass the stem or stems of the plant through your fingers) and, holding the plant in this way, turn the container over. Gently tap it on the edge of the table until you feel a lump of soil being removed from the pot. Carefully remove and look. If earthen lump is densely entangled in roots and the earth is almost invisible, then it’s time to move the plant to a larger pot. If the roots have not completely entwined the ball, then the plant does not need to be replanted. Return it to the original pot the same way you took it out. Don't worry, you won't do him any harm by doing this.
Do everything according to the rules
The plant you decide to move to new pot, water well, wait until water appears in the pan.
Carefully remove the flower from its original container. Do this carefully. If the plant does not come out when tapped on the edge of the table, take a long knife and run it across internal walls pot to separate the soil and roots from them.
After removing the plant, carefully squeeze the earthen ball, trying to keep it intact. Often the lower roots are entwined with both expanded clay placed on the bottom for drainage and a piece of an old ceramic pot covering drainage hole. There is no need to drag all this into a new container, so carefully select all the pebbles and shards from below. Remove a little old land and a coma on top.
Drainage has already been placed in the prepared pot; add a little (2-3 cm) of fresh soil. We place the earthen ball on this soil and, holding the plant with one hand, with the other we begin to pour soil into the space between the earthen ball and the walls of the pot. Convenient but at the same time use a narrow garden scoop. They also compact the earth. However, this can be done with your fingers if you don’t mind your hands.
When filling voids with soil, tap the pot on the table several times to allow the soil to settle. Or use a scoop on the pot - if the container is large enough. Add missing soil.
Water the plant generously and lightly cover the surface with dry soil. The next watering is in a week.
Place the plant in the shade for 3-4 days. Then move it to permanent place and treat it as usual. Our green households are forced to live in limited space flower pot, where food supplies are not very large. Therefore, to make the plants feel as comfortable as possible for a long time, you need to change the container and soil in time.
The pot is ready!
A new flower pot should be 2-4 cm larger than the previous one; a larger container will only harm your pet. The fact is that in such a pot the volume of soil is too large, the roots do not have time to quickly absorb it, and part of the soil may turn sour. If you are forced to cut off some of the diseased or rotten roots, or divide an overgrown plant, then the pot must be reduced by 2-4 cm in diameter.
There must be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. If you don't have them, do them. For example, in plastic containers they can be done with a heated thick nail.
If you are using old pots that have been vacated from other plants, they should be rinsed thoroughly.
Soak old clay pots in water, adding a little vinegar essence and a pinch of salt. This solution will remove any remaining calcium deposits from the pot.
New clay pots should be soaked in water for several hours. clean water so that their pores are filled with it. Otherwise the clay will absorb irrigation water, taking it away from plants.
A layer of small pebbles or broken shards is placed at the bottom of a clean pot. sharp edges down). It is very good to add a little charcoal to the drainage layer. They excess water will take and serve prophylactic from rotting roots. Place a thin layer of soil on the drainage.
To a new apartment
An hour and a half before transplanting, water the plant well. If you remove a dry soil ball from a pot, it may break into pieces, damaging the roots.
After removing the flower from the pot, clean its roots from the soil and carefully inspect them. Trim rotten and damaged ones. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal or a crushed tablet. activated carbon.
The plant is then planted in fresh soil. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the roots are distributed evenly and are not bent upward or twisted.
After filling the pot, gently tap it on the table several times to allow the soil to settle. Add the missing soil so that it is at the level of the base of the stem, and there is a space of 1-1.5 cm left to the top edge of the pot for easy watering and fertilizing.
After transplanting, the plant should be watered abundantly and placed in the shade for about a week. Do not water it at this time so that the soil has time to dry and the roots do not rot. But it would be good to spray the leaves daily.
If there is not enough space
Transplanting can be used if you do not want the plant to grow beyond a certain size. This way you can artificially slow down the growth of a flower without harming it.
Remove the plant from the pot. Remove about half of the soil from the roots, cut off some of the roots, trying to choose dead, damaged and weak ones.
Place the plant in a prepared new pot of the same size as the old one.
After replanting, pinch or trim the ends of the stems.
A different approach to giants
But what to do with huge potted palms, monsteras, dieffenbachias?
They are completely replanted only in cases where the plant is sick, the soil is clearly unsuitable, or the container has completely become unusable.
However, like other plants, over the course of a year the soil in the tub becomes compacted and depleted, and something needs to be done about it. For these cases, there is what is called a partial transplant. The plant is not removed from the pot, only replaced upper layer soil.
I remove as much soil as the roots allow, but no more than 5 cm. The soil is removed very carefully, trying not to damage the roots.
If you cannot avoid injury, be sure to cover the damaged area with crushed charcoal.
To fresh soil you need to add complete mineral fertilizer at the rate of 30-40 g per bucket of earth.
When pouring soil into a pot, try to arrange it in a heap, top part which will be located near the plant. On such a slide, when watering, water will roll down to the edge of the container, which will reduce the risk of rotting of the root collar.
For large plants Combine partial replanting with pruning and crown formation.
All sorts of soils are needed
Lovers of sour things - azaleas, akalifa, anthurium, caladium, fittonia, pelley - will be happy with the soil consisting of leaf, turf and humus soil, peat and charcoal (2: 1: 1: 2: 0.1).
Ferns, echmea, cyclamen, gardenia, philodendron, gloxinia, camellia, streptocarpus, hydrangea, and begonias love slightly acidic soils. A mixture consisting of leaf, turf, humus soil and peat (4: 1: 2: 2) is perfect for them.
In light, slightly acidic or neutral soil, violets, columna, alocasia, croton, ivy, hoya, impatiens, and tradescantia will thrive. Mix leaf and humus soil for them and add sand (4:2:1).
Hibiscus, justice, oleander, jasmine, ficus, pelargonium, citrus fruits, figs, coleus, dracaena, coffee prefer slightly denser and fertile soils. A soil consisting of leaf, humus, turf soil and sand (4: 2: 3: 1) is well suited for them.
Light turf, humus, leaf soil, bone meal and peat (2: 2: 1: 0.5: 0.5) - this recipe is useful for primroses, arrowroot, and dieffenbachia.
The biggest picky ones are the bulbous ones. For them it is worth preparing a mixture consisting of light turf, leaf, humus soil, peat, compost and sand (2: 2: 3: 1: 3: 1).
But cacti and succulents are completely unpretentious. Mix leaf and turf soil for them, add sand and charcoal, and for cacti also small fragments of broken brick (1:3: 1:0.1:0.1).
Prepared by Popov Kirill
How can we understand that this is a plant suffering from waterlogging? Leaf falling is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they fall off literally- darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but still stay on the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but first become discolored and become pale yellow. But in other cases characteristic difference leaves dying from waterlogging - darkening of the leaf. The leaf doesn’t just turn yellow, it actually darkens, the color changes from a healthy juicy green dirty-swamp shade, gradually turning into brown. If waterlogging is preceded by overdrying, the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.
Rotten roots split, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers through it, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging.
And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, in some plants of succulent Brown.
Sudden or gradual falling of leaves, blackening of shoots, damp, sour soil...
The trunk still seems alive and green, but the roots have rotted and the plant can no longer be saved.
When a plant does not have enough water, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissues may lose elasticity, droop, or remain dry. After watering, turgor is restored and the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then interveinal chlorosis may appear; the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When overmoistened, the leaves may lose their elasticity and droop, but after watering the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur due to watering. cold water. Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3°C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22°C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, causing the suction roots to die from hypothermia, and, as a result, leaves to fall off.
As for water hardness, it cannot be the reason for the sudden falling of leaves and death of the plant. If you water plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones, sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose leaves en masse. All the damage manifests itself gradually: first, chlorotic spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.
In case of massive leaf fall, when the leaves fall off not one by one, but dozens at once, the reasons may be the following: sudden hypothermia (for example, when transporting home), watering concentrated fertilizer(burning of roots), severe drying out, with only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes flying around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from overwatering, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to feel the soil with your finger at depth (for example, the roots have grown greatly), and only by removing the plant from the pot can you determine whether the soil inside the root ball is wet.
Some gardeners wait until the last minute, not wanting to remove the plant and inspect the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, there is no need to doubt it - take it out and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top the roots are not dense, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot the roots form a tight ring, the intertwining of the roots makes drying difficult and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small and clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.
The tangerine is the result of waterlogging and acidification of the soil. Chlorosis is a lack of various microelements.
This deplorable condition is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp soil on a cold balcony or outside.
There is also a deplorable symptom that is characteristic of severe, prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture occurs, then the matter is already very neglected, and often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (yellowed or darkened), there is nothing left to save. A similar picture is possible only with severe hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when the roots are overdried. When overdrying, wilting begins with old leaves, with lower shoots, and the trunk becomes bare from below. When overmoistened, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.
And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaenas, dieffenbachias, any succulents (crassulas, adeniums, etc.), cacti - a sure sign of excess moisture.
Another symptom that is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of fungus gnats. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too much, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps you have become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, poduras (colembolas) are white or dirty-gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the ground in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.
Measures to save flooded plants
When you have determined that the plant has been flooded, you need to take immediate action. If you establish the fact of waterlogging after removing the plant from the pot, then you will have to replant. If the fact of waterlogging is determined by indirect signs (falling leaves, damp soil to the touch), then the need for replanting depends on the severity of the situation.
- If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch in the mighty crown has withered, and the soil in the pot is quite light, then you do not need to replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundantly, the soil spreads out, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, the roots suffer from lack of air. If seed plantings are watered, the seedlings may not reach the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
- If the pot has small drainage holes, you can widen them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
- Personally, I never try to just loosen the soil, it is not very reliable and justified in cases where the plant is flooded in a very large pot, replanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very increase in temperature will speed up the drying of the soil.
- In all other cases better plant transplant.
Signs of flooding in orchids - phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, they are sluggish, wrinkled. The bark takes a very long time to dry, and the roots rot from constant contact with the damp surface.
Rotten roots must be cut off. In some cases, the new pot will have to be chosen smaller than it was.
So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Still, is the soil damp and how damp? Count how long it took to dry when you last watered. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil has been dry for a long time, say, a week has passed since watering, but upon inspection it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this from happening, or to calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, floods occur systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically reconsider the care system: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; rearrange plants into more warm room or water less often when the soil dries out more. Sometimes you have to literally slap your hands so that you don’t rise with a watering can over the plant ahead of time...
Inspect the roots. Rotten ones can be seen immediately - they peel, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, under it there remains a bundle of vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such separation occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not separate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy, succulent roots rot completely, and this is also immediately visible - they are dark, dirty gray or brown, sometimes softened. You can often identify healthy roots and rotten ones by contrast. appearance, some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only on the outside, but also on the scrap or break areas.
There are times when rotten roots break off easily and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the soil. If you haven’t found any definitely rotten roots, but the soil and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we blot the measles lump in any hygroscopic material: in a pile of old newspapers, in a roll toilet paper. You can even let the plant with its root system exposed (without a pot) dry for several hours.
Having discovered rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many there are. This is a source of infection, there is nothing to regret here. We cut everything down to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal (charcoal, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If there is neither one nor the other, crush an activated carbon tablet. If there are very few roots left, much less than there were, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.
I have already said that a too spacious pot in itself, not filled with roots, does not contribute to rapid growth plants, and in some cases even harms them. It is easier to fill a plant in a spacious pot. And even if you water carefully, the plant tends to grow root system, to develop a large surface of the earth and only then enhances the growth of the ground part.
Substrate for aroids, bromeliads and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, substrate: soil, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine stopper, pine bark and moss (just a little of it). A decaying anthurium, transplanted into this mixture, bloomed a month later and released its third bud.
If you tend to flood your plants, then use clay pots to plant your plants. But there is one important point: The inside of the pot should not be glazed. If the walls clay pot The inside is covered with glaze, it is no better than plastic.
So, you need to choose a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. IN in this case, the rule will be effective: better smaller pot, the more. It’s okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, notify you by their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant to a larger pot and that’s it. During the growing season, plants can be replanted at any time and more than once. Most plants, if they get sick after transplantation, stop growing, this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.
After transplantation, plants should not be placed in the sun, even the most light-loving ones; they should remain under shade for a week. You cannot water plants on the same day, especially those that are being rehabilitated from overwatering - these plants generally need to be watered for the first time after 2-3 days. You cannot fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting sick plants (including flooded ones), you cannot add dry fertilizers (neither manure, nor litter, nor granular fertilizers). Do not clog the transplanted plant in plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes pure evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, in the first days need to be placed in conditions high humidity. And many people try to put the plant in a bag and tie it tightly. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But the availability of oxygen is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes both roots and leaves; if the plant has been flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then he just needs fresh air!
Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten the edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day; if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray with water on an inverted saucer.
If the plant has rotten crowns or ends of the shoots, they must be trimmed back to healthy tissue. If possible, at the same time cut the plant - cut off healthy branches for rooting, in order to be able to save at least something if the flood has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots still remain vigorous until they wither (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be taken from them. In some cases, when the roots rot, toxins enter the vascular system of plants (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of bacteria and fungi) and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking ones do not take root, they are already doomed...
After transplantation, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in dark time days (most stimulants decompose in light). If the leaves have dark spots If the tops of the shoots are rotten, it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add a fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides include: Fundazol, Maxim, Khom, Oksihom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh, dry soil, the plant can be watered with a zircon solution.
If a plant that has a wide rosette of leaves in the form of a funnel, like bromeliads, is flooded, then it is necessary to dry the bases of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, carefully remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when they are watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read more carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in winter.
Another important point: after flooding, the soil in the pot turns sour: the roots of the plants continue to secrete carbon dioxide, the renewal of humus slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form that is indigestible by plants. For example, iron goes into an oxidized form (F3+), which causes a rusty-brown crust to form on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not absorbed, and as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: signs of calcium, iron, and nitrogen deficiency appear. At this stage, some gardeners do not pay attention to the condition of the soil and rush to treat the effect rather than the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer and turn yellow. At times it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovit), and after adding fertilizers to the soil it gets even worse.
In such a situation, the only way out is complete replacement land. And if you are in a hurry to apply fertilizer, then it is advisable to rinse the roots under running water when replanting warm water. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with coal and plant in fresh, dry soil.
If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth is taking a long time to dry! Such a salt crust must be removed and the top layer of soil replaced with a fresh one.
To indoor flower (perennial) lived with you for a long time and was practically not sick, you need to take proper care of him. One of the conditions for longevity is timely transplantation. There are signs that will help you understand that it is time to change the soil and move your pet to a larger pot.
Signs
The main signs that a flower needs to be replanted:
1. The soil in the pot has risen. It is clearly visible that the pot has become small.
2. New branches. Look at your roommate if you notice new ones green shoots, perhaps he wants to expand - move into a larger pot with quality soil.
3. The leaves turned yellow. Main reasons 2: pests or need to replant.
4. Flowers have become smaller and bloom little. If you notice with your pet that the flowers have become smaller and are falling off quickly, you need to replant.
In what soil is the transplant performed? indoor plants? Promised land for flowers
Choose your land carefully. Don't take the ordinary one from the garden. Every year it is fertilized with minerals and there are too many salts. Go to the forest, remove the top layer of turf and dig up some soil. A good option take soil from molehills. It is loose and there are very few insects. If you collected the soil yourself, sterilize it to remove potential pests and pathogenic microorganisms. Do it like this:
1. Place a layer of no more than 15 cm on the bottom of the pan and keep in a water bath for 10 minutes. Temperature is approximately 85 °C.
2. Place on a baking sheet that does not have high sides. Heat in the oven, placing foil on top, at a temperature of 85 °C for 10 minutes. If the baking sheet is deep, heat for 40 to 50 minutes.
Buy a special mixture in a supermarket, reading the labels, or at a flower shop, asking the seller for advice. Take a substrate whose label says it is suitable for all species if you need the soil urgently, otherwise look for a suitable one. Keep the remainder refrigerated, covered, to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Successful replanting of indoor plants - favorable days:
In the spring. From October, growth slows down. It is especially unfavorable to change your place of residence in winter. Wait until spring. In 2015, it is best to replant on the following days:
To find out these dates, look at moon calendar replanting indoor plants for the corresponding year.
Replanting indoor plants: have the conditions for the plants been created?
Once you buy a plant, you cannot immediately replant it. It is not known how often it was moved from place to place during the 2 weeks before purchase?! The flower is stressed! Place it on a windowsill or other comfortable spot and do not touch for 2 to 4 weeks. He will get used to the air (humidity), room temperature, local water, lighting, and other conditions. When it is fully adapted, inspect it and if there are signs that it needs new soil, change the composition and move it to a new, more spacious pot. If you bought it in the fall or winter, then wait at least until the beginning of February. In winter, you definitely shouldn’t rush to change your place of residence...
How to replant indoor plants correctly? Are there any rules?
If you have experience, you will do it quickly and easily. If not, then study my advice. And in any case, try and everything will work out!
Here are some adviсe:
1. A day, or maybe a couple of hours before moving, water the seedling.
2. Cover the place where you will work with cellophane or newspapers in advance. Take equipment: a knife or wooden spatula, a pot, drainage, soil and charcoal.
3. Take only a clean pot. If you choose clay, pour it into it overnight cold water, let it soak in water. If you don’t do this, the pot will take water from the soil and the roots may immediately feel the lack of moisture, which is very harmful.
4. Cover the special drainage hole with 2 cm of expanded clay or pebbles (let it be saturated with water overnight), brick pieces, from clay pots. Drainage is sold in flower boutiques or you can get it from friends who are building a house. If the flower does not like moisture or the container is deep, place a layer of drainage higher.
5. Pour soil on top so that the top of the hill is in the middle.
6. Now take the seedling out of the old container. It’s convenient to get it out like this: hold the stem between 2 fingers, hold the soil with your other fingers and your palm, and carefully turn the pot over. You watered it beforehand, so the lump will come out easily. Well, or knock a little on the bottom with the walls. Is it difficult to walk? Run the knife deep against the walls. The plastic container is easy to cut.
7. Using your fingers or a small brush, lightly remove the soil from the roots. If you see rotten ones, tear them off and throw them away, sprinkle the tear area with charcoal (you can use crushed black activated charcoal from a pharmacy). Then, place the flower in the pot, carefully laying the roots over the soil that you previously poured.
8. Hold the seedling and add soil with a spatula. Do not completely cover the root collar. Try to keep the plant centered, just as it was before moving. Let the soil be 1 or 2 cm from the edge of the container. Shake the pot slightly and compact the soil with your fingers.
9. Water if the roots are not too rotten and leave in the shade for 7 days.
If you do not a complete transplant, but a transshipment, then everything is much simpler. Moisten the soil, hold the stem and pull out the plant with roots and soil. Move to a larger pot and add mixture. Transshipment is done for flowers that have sensitive roots. Try to carry out transplantation or transshipment on days that are favorable according to the gardener’s calendar. Follow the recommendations, love and care.
As a rule, the owner of a houseplant knows when to water it, in what quantity and how often. But many owners of nature’s beautiful creations do not know about the soil found in flower pots. The soil must be selected depending on individual characteristics indoor plants. If the plant and soil do not match, the plant may wither and the soil may become covered with a white shell.
Do I need to change the soil in pots?
There is no specific correct answer to this question, but still, more positive opinions are given towards periodically replacing the soil in pots.
Over time, the earth loses its mineral wealth and becomes incapable of enriching the plant. useful substances. In addition, over time, white coating. The cause of such plaque may even be an excess of fertilizers, for example, salt contained in the water with which a houseplant is watered.
Plaque can also form due to insufficient loosening of the soil cover, that is, the crust in the surface layer of the earth prevents water from evaporating.
As a rule, it is recommended to change the soil once a year, but this period is relative. You need to look at the external state of the earth. The more often watering is done, the shorter the interval between soil replacements. Also, the soil must change as the flower grows; when long roots grow, there is not enough soil to feed them, so you need to replant the flower in a large pot, accordingly big amount land.
For plants small size not recommended for use large pots, they inhibit the growth and development of the plant.
How should I replace soil in potted indoor plants?
When replacing the soil, the soil grasped by the roots of the plant remains unchanged. The main soil lump must remain in place. First, you need to carefully remove the flower from the pot along with all the soil, then with careful movements separate the areas that are not captured by the roots of the soil, as if with gentle shaking movements. To fertilize new land, powdered charcoal is added to it. He has excellent medicinal property- an obstacle to putrefaction. Coal can also absorb excess moisture from the soil and give it away when the soil becomes dry. Coal makes the soil porous, which helps plant roots breathe.
The prepared new soil is poured into the bottom of the pot, then a flower with its own lump of earth is placed there and the remaining spaces are filled with soil.
- it's fast. Soils, universal or specially formulated for individual crops, are made from peat with the addition of macro- and microelements. An “average” set of fertilizers, more or less meeting the needs of most crops, is included in universal soils - they are convenient if there are “a couple of every critter” on your windowsill. If the collection is dominated by representatives of one or more species or families, give preference to special soils, balanced taking into account the characteristics of these plants.
On the one hand, peat soil seems to be the easiest to use: buy it, pour it, plant it - and you don’t need to understand anything. But it is inexperienced plant growers who should think carefully before making such a choice. Peat is a very moisture-intensive material. As it dries, it loses volume (“shrinks”) and lags behind the walls of the pot.
In addition, dry peat is poorly wetted: water rolls over its surface without being absorbed. Late watering will have no effect until you are able to soak it properly. Is it worth explaining how plants suffer? Growing plants in such a substrate is the destiny of disciplined owners who do everything on time and correctly.
Charcoal. Birch or aspen charcoal can be collected from an extinguished fire. Ready-made grill charcoal will also work. It is crushed into pieces about a centimeter and mixed into small quantity To soil mixtures. Promotes looseness and water permeability of the soil, prevents acidification of the soil.
Additional components
Horn meal, shavings, horn-hoof meal. Valuable, slow-acting. Can be found on sale in flower shops and garden centers. Added to earthen mixtures at the rate of 1 part to 30 parts of land.
. Contains a lot of potassium, normalizes soil acidity. Hardwood stove ash (sometimes sold at garden centers) is suitable as a soil additive. Added at the rate of 1 part per 50 parts of land.
