Trees and shrubs with a closed root system can be planted from early spring to late autumn. The exception is the leaf fall period. However, it is better to choose a moment for this that is also suitable for seedlings with an open root system. Moreover, for many fruit trees and shrubs, the preferred planting time is still autumn.

Gooseberry

Gooseberries are light-loving; they need to be planted in open sunny places, protected from strong winds. Responds well to soil fertility. Cannot tolerate waterlogging at all (rots root collar), tolerates temporary drought much better. He also does not like close groundwater - it is advisable that its level be no closer than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth; If groundwater stand above 0.8 m, then the bush must be planted on a soil bedding-cushion 0.3–0.5 m high and 0.8–1.0 m wide.

If free space there are few on the plot, then you can place gooseberries between young fruit trees, but the distance from the trees to the bushes should be at least 2 m. You can also plant gooseberries along the border of the plot or along the fence - so that the plantings are separated from buildings and fences by at least 1.5 m.

Gooseberries prefer light, medium-loamy soils. If the soil on the site is sandy loam or heavy clay, you need to add clay or sand accordingly. Does not like acidic soils. If the acidity index (pH) is above 5.5, then lime is added for planting - at least 200 g per 1 sq. m. m. In order for gooseberries to grow and develop well, the ground at the planting site must be thoroughly weeded. It is not advisable to plant a shrub in a place where currants or raspberries previously grew - the soil will be severely depleted, and diseases and pests common to these crops will certainly attack the “new one”.

The optimal time for planting gooseberries with an open root system is mid-September - early October. It is better to buy seedlings in advance - a week or two. This should be done in specialized nurseries and companies with a proven reputation. The root system of the seedling should have 3–5 lignified skeletal roots at least 10 cm long and developed fibrous roots. One shoot is enough for the aboveground part of one-year-old seedlings, but two-year-old seedlings should have 2-3 shoots about 30 cm long. When transporting seedlings with an open root system, you need to dip the roots in a clay mash and wrap them in damp burlap.

Gooseberries are planted in pre-prepared round holes with a diameter of 0.5 m and a depth of 0.5 m. When digging a hole, the fertile (top) layer is discarded on one side, the underlying layer on the other. Then a bucket of manure (can be fresh) or compost, 200–250 g of complex mineral fertilizer or 150–200 g of superphosphate, 40–60 g of potassium sulfate are added to 2/3 of the mass of the fertile layer. Mix everything thoroughly and fill about half of the hole with this mixture. The remaining 1/3 of the fertile layer is poured on top as a mound. After the mixture settles in the hole (after 1–2 weeks), planting begins. The seedling is placed on a mound, the roots are straightened, covered with the remaining soil so that the root collar is buried 5–7 cm. Then the soil is trampled around the bush, watered well and mulched with humus. The shoots are shortened, leaving 5–7 cm above the ground, so that the plant can branch better.

Honeysuckle

For edible honeysuckle choose an open and sunny, but protected from the wind place.

It is convenient to plant bushes along the edge of the plot with a distance between plants of 0.5 (dense hedge) up to 1.5 m. The soil should be moisture-absorbing, but without stagnant water. Soil type – almost any.

Plant honeysuckle better in autumn. Plants planted in spring take root less well, and this must be done early - in April, before flowering.

Most varieties are self-sterile; to ensure cross-pollination, you will need at least two different varieties flowering at the same time, preferably three to five. Planting material (2–3 year old seedlings) should look like this: the above-ground part consists of 4–5 skeletal shoots 25–35 cm long and at least 5 mm thick at the base, roots no shorter than 25 cm, with 4–5 branches.

Immediately before planting, planting holes (40x50x40 cm) are prepared. They include organic fertilizers(up to two buckets, depending on the type of soil), as well as superphosphate (up to 200 g) and potassium salt (35–40 g).

Black currant

Blackcurrant gives more high yield more large berries, if you plant several nearby different varieties- for mutual cross-pollination. Almost all modern varieties are self-pollinating, but cross pollination the number of ovaries increases and the size of the berries increases even in small-fruited black currants.

Currant seedlings with an open root system can be planted in both spring and autumn, but it is better to do this in the fall (for the middle zone - in the first half of October). Over the winter, the soil around the bushes will settle and become compacted; in the spring, the plants will begin to grow early and take root well. When using seedlings in containers, there are practically no restrictions on planting time.

Typically, currant bushes are planted at a distance of 1–1.25 m. To get a harvest in the 2nd–3rd year, the plants in the row can be planted somewhat denser, at a distance of 0.7–0.8 m. But the yield per bush will be less and Life expectancy will be slightly reduced.

Black currant is moisture-loving and relatively shade-tolerant, but does not tolerate strong shading. Therefore, it is better for it to be allocated to low-lying, moist, sufficiently lit and protected from the wind places (but not swampy lowlands with protruding groundwater!). The best are fertile light loams. On heavy acidic soils black currants grow poorly.

At the selected location, it is necessary to level the soil so that there are no deep depressions and holes. Then dig it well with the bayonet of a shovel, carefully removing the rhizomes of perennial weeds. A planting hole with a depth of 35–40 cm and a diameter of 50–60 cm is filled approximately 3/4 of the depth with fertile soil mixed with fertilizers - a bucket of compost, superphosphate (150–200 g), potassium sulfate (40–60 g) or wood ash (30–40 g).

The root system of the seedling must be lignified, have 3–5 skeletal roots at least 15–20 cm long. The above-ground part must be at least one or two branches 30–40 cm long. Damaged or dried roots are shortened, the seedling is buried 6–8 cm higher root collar. Deepening the root collar promotes the formation of root buds for the future multi-stemmed bush.

Before filling the hole, half a bucket of water is poured into it, and another half bucket is poured into the ring hole around the planting site. And immediately mulch the surface with peat. The soil under the currant is loosened: near the root collar to a depth of 6–8 cm, at a distance from it – 10–12 cm. When mulching, moisture is better preserved, and loosening can be done much less frequently.

In the fall, the heavy soil under the bushes is dug up shallowly and left lumpy for the winter to retain moisture. If light soil and quite loose, you can limit yourself to shallow loosening (up to 5–8 cm) near the bushes, and dig up the row spacing to 10–12 cm.

Of all berry bushes black currant is the most moisture-loving, because its root system is located in the top layer of soil, at a depth of 20–30 cm. It is especially important that it receives required quantity moisture during intensive growth and formation of the ovary (early June), during the filling of berries (third ten days of June - first ten days of July) and after harvesting (August - September). Pre-winter watering is also important, especially in dry autumn. Approximate water consumption is 20–30 liters per bush.

Red Ribes

Red currant loves sunny places, protected from cold winds, fertile and loose soil.

It is best to plant seedlings in early autumn, at the very beginning of September. Missing the deadline is dangerous: the seedlings will not have time to take root and prepare for winter.

The planting pattern depends on the characteristics of the variety, which dictate what adult plants will become. For compact, straight-growing bushes, 1–1.25 x 1.25 m is sufficient; spreading, lush ones will need a distance of at least 1.5 m. Most modern varieties highly self-fertile.

To plant red currants, you need to dig a hole 40 cm deep and 50–60 cm wide in advance, 2–3 weeks in advance (so that the soil with which we fill it has time to settle). Thoroughly mix the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers: 8–10 kg of compost (humus, peat), 150–200 g of superphosphate, 30–40 g of potassium sulfate or wood ash. The plant can be planted straight or inclined - for better education additional roots.

After planting, water thoroughly and mulch with humus or peat. Then the branches need to be severely pruned, leaving 10–15 cm with 3–4 buds.

Red currants will benefit from fertilizing: organic matter, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. But she can’t stand chlorine, and complex fertilizers must be selected taking into account this feature.

Rich but not too much frequent watering necessary during shoot growth, flowering, fruiting and in the fall, after picking berries.

Currant bushes are winter-hardy. Under the snow they are not afraid of frost down to –45°C. Much more dangerous are spring frosts, which damage flowers and ovaries. In such cases, it is recommended to cover the bushes with non-woven material.

Apple tree

When is it better to plant apple trees - autumn or spring? Each of these options has its own advantages.

In practice, preference is still given to autumn. In this case, the root system of the seedlings has time to recover during the autumn-spring period after planting, so that at the beginning of the growing season it begins to at least to some extent provide the ground organs of the seedling with the necessary nutrients.

It is better to plant apple tree seedlings in spring in early spring when the ground has not yet completely thawed. A tree planted at this time will need constant regular watering. Lack of moisture can lead to noticeable drying of the weakened root system and disproportionate development of the underground and above-ground parts of the plant.

No matter what planting date you decide on, the planting holes must be prepared in advance. Remember that a planting hole is not a hole for roots or an earthen ball of a seedling, but a container of fertile soil, a nutrient medium for the plant for the next 5-7 years. Each cubic centimeter of it must contain substances that allow the seedling to quickly develop and grow stronger.

Therefore, even for plants 30-50 cm high, you need to prepare a large hole. The only exceptions are columnar apple trees; holes of 50x50x50 cm are suitable for them. A hole for the apple tree is dug at least 60-80 cm in diameter and 70-80 cm in depth.

The dug hole is filling fertile soil, consisting of the top layer of the original soil, peat, compost, rotted manure, humus and - on heavy clay soils- sand (in a ratio of 1:1). 6-8 handfuls of complex mineral fertilizer (Kemira, azofoska) are added to the planting hole. It is better to prepare the soil in the hole in layers (filling all the components with a layer of 15-20 cm, adding 1.5-2 handfuls of fertilizer to each), thoroughly mixing with a shovel and compacting each layer. The hole should be filled “heaped” so that the soil rises 15-20 cm above its edges. If this is not done, then as the soil compacts and settles, the seedling will end up in the funnel in 2-3 years - and become less winter-hardy, will bear less fruit.

And only after the hole is completely filled with fertile soil, a hole is made in it to the size of the roots of a seedling or a ball of earth. When planting a plant with an open root system, you can form a mound at the bottom of the hole on which the roots of the apple tree spread out. Place the seedling in the hole and fill it with water. Cover the roots with the soil removed from the hole until the water is absorbed. After 5-10 minutes, compact the soil around the planted apple tree. Tie the seedling in a figure eight to three stakes inserted as deep as possible (about 70-80 cm). If there are two or one stakes, the tree may gradually tilt and even after a few years fall during a hurricane wind.

With any rootstock, one to three year old seedlings take root best. When buying seedlings with an open root system, check the viability of the roots: scrape them with your fingernail - living roots under the bark and on the cut should be white.

Homemade plum

Most often we grow varieties of domestic plum. These are tall trees 3–5 meters high. However, the height of the tree as a feature of the variety for the gardener, knowledgeable about pruning, does not have of decisive importance. It can easily form a low tree with a well-lit and ventilated crown.

The first fruits on the branches begin to appear 3–4 years after planting. The next 8–10 years are the most productive for the plum tree. If you are tempted by some very tasty, but not too winter-hardy variety, graft it onto a winter-hardy rootstock or buy seedlings using standard-formers.

In addition to domestic plums, we also grow some varieties of Chinese plums (they are medium in size and frost-resistant) and cherry plums. There are also varieties of sloe, Ussuri plum, Canadian plum and many others.

The root system of plum trees can penetrate quite deeply, but in our climate the bulk of the roots are superficial, located under the crown or slightly beyond its limits. Caring for plums is not difficult - just loosen them regularly. trunk circle tree and form a crown. This crop loves watering, but does not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Self-fertility of plums is an optional quality. Partially self-fertile and self-sterile are varieties that are capable of setting fruit only when adjacent to a pollinating variety. It can be any other variety of plum, but an indispensable condition is simultaneous flowering.

If there is no room for several plum trees, you can graft several different varieties onto a winter-hardy variety that can pollinate each other, and the problem will be solved. It is also important to note that for good pollination of domestic plum varieties, only domestic plum is suitable, and cherry plum and Chinese plum varieties can pollinate each other.

The harvest is harvested in the second half of summer. Early varieties– at the end of July – beginning of August, medium – in mid-August, late – at the end of August – beginning of September. Unfortunately, sometimes plums late varieties do not ripen in our climate due to the cold rainy summer. Average yield of plums at good care- 10–20 kg per tree, and for some abundant varieties up to 40 kg.

Pear

Pear seedlings are planted in spring or mid-autumn.

Only young trees are watered and only during very severe drought. The pear has a powerful deep root system, and it is capable of extracting water itself.

Pears are susceptible to the same diseases as apple trees: scab, moniliosis, cytosporosis.

She is also “loved” by the codling moth, apple blossom beetle, and copperhead.

To improve the quality of fruit trees, grafting can be done. Pear trees take root best on seedlings of winter-hardy varieties and wild pear. Common and chokeberry, hawthorn, apple and even poplar are good options. Scientists are working on breeding dwarf rootstocks for pear.

Shaping and trimming are also very important for good harvest. The point of pruning is to let each leaf “bathe in the rays of the sun” in the summer, especially in the morning, when all the processes in the leaves are very active. Pear is one of the most light-loving crops, and its flower buds do not form in the shade. That is why a pear cannot be planted against the wall of a house - it simply will not bear fruit there.

Many gardeners remove the lower branches of fruit-bearing trees - supposedly there are no pears on them. It's not worth doing this. There are no fruits at the bottom of the crown because the tree was pruned incorrectly and now these very lower branches are dimly lit. In principle, you need to remove all branches growing inside the crown. But if the branch is well lit and does not interfere with others, it is quite possible to leave it.

Every spring, all gardeners are overcome by “planting disease.” It begins as soon as the snow melts, and it is hardly possible to get rid of its symptoms until the end of May. Occasionally there are summer residents who do not run around markets and nurseries in the spring in search of seedlings - they planted everything in the fall. So when is it better to plant trees - autumn or spring?

When can you plant trees?

Theoretically, it is possible to plant trees all year round, as long as the ground is not frozen. The most important thing for a planted tree is as much Full contact roots with soil. If the soil is frozen, it cannot be compacted enough to provide this contact. If the roots of the tree hang in the void, it will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the above-ground part. After all, the fact that trees “sleep” in winter does not mean that they do not lose moisture.

If you plant a tree in mid-summer, for example, the biggest problem will again be increased evaporation of moisture, which, however, can be compensated for by frequent watering.

Thus, trees can be successfully planted at any time of the year.

The main thing is to plant correctly and provide careful care. True, why create additional difficulties for yourself and the seedling if there are optimal timing plantings that reduce these difficulties to a minimum?

When is the best time to plant trees?

A period of physiological or forced dormancy when trees “sleep” in anticipation favorable conditions for the growing season, and is optimal for planting. “Hibernation” begins as soon as trees will fall foliage, and lasts until the buds open. The tree doesn’t care when exactly during this period it will be planted. In this case, there are a number of factors that are important for the gardener. Let's take a closer look at these factors.
Pros and cons of autumn planting

So, let's look at the reasons why you should not plant trees in the fall:
If the winter is exceptionally cold (as it was just two years ago), the planted trees may freeze. In addition, they can be damaged by heavy snowfall, ice, wind and other weather disasters.
In autumn, planted trees can be damaged by rodents or they can simply be stolen if your garden is left unattended during the winter.

At the same time, there are significant advantages of autumn planting of seedlings:
Plenty of choice in autumn planting material, since it is during this period that nurseries begin selling seedlings.
If you plant trees in the fall, one watering will be enough; the coolness and frequent rains will take care of your pets without your participation.
Unless the winter is too harsh, the soil will not freeze to the depth of the roots. In this case, the planted tree will grow suction roots over the winter and heal the wounds caused by the transplant.
In the spring, a gardener has a lot of work: he needs not only to plant trees, but also to take care of the old garden, prepare the garden for planting, and so on. It's not such a bad thing to do something in advance to free up time for other concerns.

As we see, the advantages are autumn planting more than cons. So if you planted trees in the fall, continue to do so. Now let’s see if you should succumb to the “planting disease” in the spring and plant a couple more seedlings.

Should you or shouldn't you plant trees in the spring?

Why is it problematic to plant trees in spring:
When planting in spring, it is necessary to water the seedling twice: at planting and a day later, loosen the soil and cover with mulch. Next, you will also have to water the planted tree frequently, especially if the weather is hot or windy.
If you're late with spring planting, then the planted tree’s chances of survival will be significantly reduced. If the tree has not yet begun to grow properly, but sap flow has already begun, then it can only be removed by providing special care, which not every amateur gardener can do.
In the spring, the market for planting material is poor - much is sold out in the fall.

What are the benefits of planting trees in spring:
During the winter, you have the opportunity to prepare theoretically, draw up a planting plan, based on which you can order seedlings - there will be no hasty decisions.
Winter is not such a “dead” season for a gardener: you can prepare holes, tools, and generally put the garden in order, without rushing.
If you cannot ensure the protection of the site, you will not have to worry about the planted trees all winter.
If you plant trees in the spring, they get one more year of growing season - if planted in the fall, you would have a harvest a year later.

As you can see, there are more advantages here too. So, if your hands are itching to plant a tree, plant it without regard to those who mumble that this is not right. This way and that way is correct. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose the most suitable time for you to plant trees.

Be sure to take into account the local weather and features. Residents of the southern regions, of course, are better off planting trees in the fall. Autumns there are long and warm, and spring gives way too quickly to hot summers. And northerners better beware of the harsh winter and plant trees in the spring. However, if you didn’t have time to plant something in March-April, put it off until the fall. If you don’t have time in the fall, fill the gap next spring. The main thing is to plant trees and care for them with love!

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How to plant a tree?

I hope you don’t think that planting a tree means digging a hole, sticking a seedling in there and covering it with soil?

Scientifically speaking, for a successful planting process it is necessary to follow a number of rules in which the tree can quickly form an active, functional root system, i.e. so that it takes root and receives the necessary substances and moisture for the development of the crown.

These are the rules I wanted to talk about, and for this you need to answer 3 questions, namely - what? How? When? Almost? Where? When?)

What to consider when purchasing, unless of course you are buying this seedling and not digging it up in the forest or on neighboring plot. I think it’s worth highlighting a few simple rules:

Purchase from a specialized gardening company or a large company where you can get the necessary advice.

It is advisable to have a label indicating the variety and breed.

So that the seedling does not have any distortions in the crown, crooked trunk, or uneven distribution of branches along the trunk. And at least there must be 3 skeletal branches.

There should be no signs of damage or disease.

If the seedling is in a container, then the roots should not break through the drainage hole.

If the seedling is in a package, then earthen lump should be dense and proportional to the above-ground part.

Saplings with an open root system should not have damage to the roots, signs of disease, and the roots should not be overdried. And also all leaves of such seedlings must be removed.

When to plant? Here I see two options:

In autumn. The leaves have fallen and the tree does not need to waste energy feeding the crown, so it is busy developing a new habitat. But one thing - they plant in the fall winter-hardy varieties, such as apple trees, pear trees, berry and ornamental shrubs.

In the spring. More heat-loving varieties It is better to plant in early spring otherwise they will not have enough time to prepare for winter. This applies to apricots, cherries, plums, cherry plums, and weakly winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.

The time for planting large trees differs from, for example, planting lilacs, which are planted from the second half of July to the beginning of September.

P.S. IN in this case I meant planting time in those areas where summer and relatively good weather last only 3-4 months.

P.P.S. Seedlings in containers can be planted in summer, as long as the roots are not too dry.

And now the landing itself, only 9 stages:

Mark the landing site. Here we think and plan the development of the future tree for years to come, so that it does not interfere with anything and has the opportunity to grow unhindered. We mark the place and designate a hole, which should be 2 times wider than the earthen ball with roots.

Dig a hole. We separate the top dug fertile layer from the bottom and pour them over different sides pits.

Loosen the bottom of the hole. This is done to make it easier for the roots to penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the soil.

Fertilize the planting soil. Upper layer the soil that we separated is diluted with mature compost or humus (You can read where to prepare compost here). Add more pre-prepared fertile soil and mineral fertilizers. The lower unused layer of soil can be used to fill holes on the site, if there are any)

Drive in the stake. We install the support before planting so as not to damage the roots; as a rule, it is needed for large plants.

Place the seedling in the hole. Sprinkle some prepared soil at the bottom of the hole and place the seedling vertically. In this case, we do not recess the root system into the soil (we do not bury it); the root ball of soil should only be lightly sprinkled with soil on top. After all work, the soil level is landing pit taking into account future settlement, it should be approximately 5 centimeters higher than the level of the rest of the site.

Fill the hole with soil. I think it is obvious that before filling the hole you need to remove what the root ball of earth was wrapped in, it could be burlap, paper, etc.

Tie the seedling to a support. Tie the seedling to the support in the shape of a figure eight with soft twine. The twine should not cut too much into the tree bark.

Water the planting thoroughly. We compact the soil around the trunk, and make a roller along the edges of the hole for watering. We water the tree trunk well (so that the roots come into contact with the soil), then sprinkle (mulch) it with peat or humus to a depth of 5 cm.

How to plant a fruit tree?

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When to plant trees and shrubs correctly

It is preferable to plant deciduous trees during a break in the growing season, that is, in early spring before the leaves bloom or in the fall after the leaves fall.

The best time for autumn planting is considered to be mid-September and all of October, but you should focus on specific weather conditions.

Spring planting is carried out after the soil has thawed, which is temperate latitudes usually occurs in mid-April - early May.

On moist, heavy and compacted soils, it is recommended to plant trees in the spring.

In areas with early, harsh winters, it is also preferable to plant seedlings in the spring.

Heat-loving trees and shrubs are planted in the spring after late spring frosts, since they may not survive the winter if planted in the fall.

When planting trees in the spring, you need to make sure that the ground has thawed and does not have frozen areas.

Conifers and evergreens should be planted late autumn, at the end of summer or beginning of autumn, so that they have time to take root in winter time nourished the above-ground part with moisture.

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Preparing the pit and planting a seedling

Fruit trees They can grow and bear fruit in the same place for ten or more years. I would like to immediately note that tree planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, the main thing in this matter is proper planting. After all, the mistakes that you may make at the beginning will be very difficult to correct in the future, not to mention the fact that some of them are completely impossible to correct.

To avoid these errors, you need to:

1) Prepare the soil well;

2) Place the plants correctly on the site;

3) Choose varieties that are more suitable for your area;

4) Follow all the rules necessary for planting tree seedlings;

5) Provide timely care for seedlings after planting;

For planting fruit trees, an area with a slope of no more than 5-8°, while protected from the wind, is best suited.

It is not recommended to plant in a closed pit (saucer), regardless of whether you plant them in autumn or spring. This is due to what stagnates in them cold air, which is especially dangerous during spring frosts (during the flowering period).

Fruit plants can grow best where tree species grow (maple, oak, ash).

An important condition when choosing the most suitable site is the groundwater level. For example, when planting pome trees (pears, apple trees), groundwater should be no closer than 2-2.5 m from the surface layer of soil, and in the case of cherries or plums, this distance should be at least 1.5 - 2 m.

If the groundwater is above this distance, the development process will be very weak, namely, the annual growth (if planting was done in the fall) will not have time to ripen and will simply freeze out during winter frosts. It is not uncommon for the tops of trees to dry out.

If it is impossible to drain the area for planting, it is recommended to plant tree seedlings on mounds with a height of 40-50 cm and a width of 2-3 m. For mounds, it is necessary to use the top layer of soil, which is thoroughly cultivated and fertilized.

For an apple tree, light chernozem, deep turfy and sandy loam soil is best, and for a pear - loose loamy, nutritious soil, for plums - fertilized clayey soil, provided with moisture, for cherries - light sandy loam.

Determining the soil in the garden plot. Depending on the mechanical composition, soils can be divided into clayey, silty loams, sandy loams, sandy loams, sandy loams, etc.

In light soil, as a rule, the amount contained nutrients slightly less compared to heavy.

Soil analysis is carried out in special agrochemical laboratories at MTS. But in order to determine the mechanical composition of the soil summer cottage, you can use this table:

How to prepare a site when planting trees in the fall?

Typically, fruit trees are planted in holes, but in order to improve the growth and development of the plant, before planting the soil must be completely tilled (dug) to a depth of 40-60 cm. In cases with podzolic soil, this depth must be reduced.

If planting will be done in the fall, then the pits are best prepared in the spring, and if in the spring, in the autumn.

The holes to be dug should have a round shape with steep walls.

Planting trees in autumn

When planting trees, both in autumn and spring, the distance between pear and apple trees should be 6x6 m or 5x6 m, and in the case of plum and cherry - 3x4 m.

The planting itself must be taken responsibly. As was already said at the beginning, largely from correct landing and the success of establishment, growth and, most importantly, fruiting will depend.

It is also necessary to remember that the younger the seedling, the easier it will be to plant. Also, young seedlings take root much better.

Many gardeners, along with vigorous plants, also plant dwarf varieties.

For those who don't know - dwarf trees These are plants grafted on rootstocks that have weak growth.

For example, apple trees that are grafted onto weak-growing rootstocks receive the conventional name - dwarf, differing both in growth vigor and in some other characteristics.

Unlike apple trees that were grafted onto a vigorous rootstock, in which the period of growth and development lasts from 70-80 years, dwarf apple trees can grow for 20-25 years.

But dwarf species have their own advantages. They can bear fruit as early as 3-4 years (some varieties even earlier), compared to vigorous-growing ones, in which fruiting begins at 6-12 years.

Dwarf species are more productive, the fruits are larger and better colored. On the site, they can be placed at a distance of 3x3 m, which means that, compared to vigorous-growing ones, twice as many of them can be planted on the same area, and therefore the yield doubles.

Plant and care for dwarf species necessary in the same way as with ordinary trees.

Landing dates . IN middle lane In our country, planting is best done in early spring, that is, before the seedlings begin to bud. But when planting trees in the fall, you can also get very good results.

In the autumn, planting can be done in early October, that is, 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost.

How to prepare seedlings for planting?

Preparing a seedling for planting. The dashes show where branches and roots should be trimmed

The first thing we need to do is to carefully examine the roots of the seedling, and if diseased, dried, broken and damaged parts are found, we carefully cut them out using a garden knife.

The ends of healthy roots also need to be slightly trimmed (trimmed).
Remember, the longer the roots and better branched, the better the seedling will take root and will develop better in the future.

Each branch of the seedling crown is shortened by approximately 1/3 of its length. When shortening branches, we will need to trim them to the so-called external (outer) bud. When carrying out this procedure side shoots will begin to develop to the sides, and therefore the crown of the tree will not thicken.

Pruning of branches can be done both before and after planting.

In the center of the board there should be a triangular cutout 4 cm deep. There should be similar cutouts at both ends of the board, at a distance of 75 cm from the middle one.

Fruit tree planting scheme

How to protect your garden from the wind?

A prerequisite for successful growth, development and productivity of trees is also protection from winds. Garden protection plantings must be planted simultaneously with planting fruit plants, and even better if you do this 2-3 years before planting.

It is necessary to arrange garden protective plantings approximately according to the scheme shown in the figure below. In addition to planting garden protective plantings, we will also need to fence our area.

In cases of collective garden plots, garden protective plantings may not be needed in individual areas. In such a situation, your garden area can be protected from the wind by plants planted along the road, alley or along the border of the land plot.

It is also necessary to remember that the species of garden protective plants used must be resistant to climatic conditions your region, durable, fast-growing and with a fairly dense (not spreading) crown.

They should not emanate unnecessary root shoots, and that it is very important to have diseases and pests in common with fruit trees

How to care for a young garden?

For young garden constant and careful care is required. In the case of personal and collective garden plots, some vegetables (potatoes, strawberries, etc.) are also grown between the rows, and some gardeners even grow currants and gooseberries. But under no circumstances should you sow or plant raspberries, tobacco, sunflowers, or corn in the inter-row spaces.

These plants can have negative effects on fruit trees.

In a plot with apple trees, row spacing can be used for 10-15 years, and with cherries or plums - 7-8 years.

But at the same time, we must also not forget that interrow crops should not occupy tree trunk circles.

The width of the trunk circle depends on the age of the plant itself. In the first 2 years after planting, the width of the tree trunk circles should be about 2 meters, and every 2 years the width of the circles increases by 0.5 m.

It is also necessary to remember that the tree trunk circles during the entire period of growth and development of the plant must be in a loose state and also cleared of weeds.

You will need to loosen the soil 3-4 times.

The last loosening can be done in early August.

After each watering or rainfall, the soil must be loosened to a depth of about 5 cm.

To mulch the tree trunk circle, you can use peat or humus (in a thin layer).

In autumn, the tree trunk circles need to be dug up (to a depth of 10-15 cm), but at the same time you will need to try not to damage the roots, which is especially important near the trunk.

In the early spring, we dig up the tree trunk circles again, but this time to a slightly shallower depth.

In areas where fruit trees are moistened insufficient quantities, in the first years after planting they will need good watering.

Throughout the spring period and the first half of summer, trees require watering 3-4 times. In dry areas, the amount of watering is doubled.

For one young tree, one watering will require from 2 to 4 buckets of water (depending on the amount of precipitation). As the age of the tree increases, the watering rate also increases.

How to care for a fruit-bearing garden?

Soil care . The soil in the trunk circle of a fruit tree, as well as in row strips, in the early spring and in the fall (after leaf fall), must be dug up using a shovel or garden fork for this purpose.

But at the same time, you also need to try not to damage or expose the root system. In early spring, before digging, it is necessary to apply mineral and organic fertilizers.

Watering . The first watering is carried out in the spring, that is, before the buds bloom on the trees. The second is 12-15 days after the end of the flowering period. The third is 15-20 days before the harvest period. During periods of low rainfall, watering is also necessary in the fall.

There are several ways to water trees: water into circular grooves (grooves) made around the circumference of the tree trunk, or into holes that can be punched with a crowbar.

After the water has been absorbed and the soil has dried out somewhat, we loosen it and shade it with manure, humus, and peat.

How to thin out tree crowns? As the crown grows, the tree becomes denser. In this regard (in the thickened crown) branches and leaves solar lighting obtained in insufficient quantities, the consequences of which may be poor ripening and insufficient coloring of the fruit.

Diseases and pests in a thickened crown can cause sensitive damage. Therefore, we will need to remove unnecessary branches.

The crowns are thinned out in the fall (after leaf fall) or early spring (before the start of the sap flow period).

Thinning is carried out as follows: first we need to cut out all shrunken, diseased or frost-damaged branches.

Then we begin to remove old branches that have stopped bearing fruit. Next, we cut off the broken branches (below the break point, to a healthy place).

If there are two branches that interfere with each other’s development, then we remove or shorten the less valuable one.

It is also necessary to cut out the branches that grow inside the crown, as well as those that thicken it.

We will need to remove the cut branches from garden plot and burn.

A sharp garden saw can serve as a tool for pruning trees: we smooth the edges of the wounded area with a garden knife and coat them with putty, but you can also paint them over with paint (ocher on natural drying oil).

Our location, land and climate are perfect for growing fruit trees, and for landscaping space using pine needles. It would be a sin not to take advantage of such land and create a lush celebration of greenery in your yard.

Considered ideal for our climate planting trees in autumn. If a young seedling survives the winter, it will absolutely delight us with beautiful foliage, fruits or needles.

What do you need to know to make tree planting in Ukraine successful in the fall? This includes meeting deadlines, proper feeding, etc. So, let's start with a detailed look at each type. necessary work on populating the future garden.

Planting trees in autumn: timing and fertilizer

In our latitudes best time for planting young plants is considered autumn period. At this time of year, the soil is quite loose and saturated with moisture. Planting trees in the fall promotes better “establishment” of roots. IN autumn season wounds heal well in the root system and a capsule forms. Plants that grow during the rainy season will avoid drought and will grow well with the onset of spring.

If you do such work in the spring, young seedlings will end up in extreme conditions– poor soil mineralization and lack of water can destroy unrooted roots. Planting fruit trees in the fall will provide the necessary conditions for orchard survival.

The closer to winter, the more perennials require mineral fertilizers. In no case should tree planting in the fall be accompanied by the use of nitrogen fertilizers. Such compositions stimulate growth and improve the flow of juices to the branches. Intense cell growth in the pre-winter period will result in the plant not having time to “hibernate”. Freezing in this case is inevitable.

Planting trees in autumn allows fertilizing the soil with minerals(for example, ash), adding a little organic matter (for example, manure) into it. Do not use bird droppings under any circumstances - it is practically nitrogen in its pure form.

Tree planting in autumn begins in mid-October. Perfect time – rainy season with relatively warm temperature air and earth.

If for some reason it is impossible to plant with the onset of rain and it is planned to early spring, it is advisable to prepare places for future plantings: dig holes, fertilize with minerals, loosen the soil a little. After winter, the prepared holes will become excellent soil for rapid establishment of the root system.

Planting coniferous trees in autumn

The technology for planting coniferous perennials is very simple. It is enough to dig a hole slightly larger than the root of the seedling. Most often, the soil is not impregnated with fertilizers and is not loosened. It is worth remembering that needles do not like organic matter, with the exception of peat. Good survival rate is ensured by high-quality deep watering. Planting trees in the fall will provide sufficient moisture.

Acceptable distance between seedlings- at least 2-3 meters. Non-compliance this condition will lead to the formation of a “Baba Yaga forest” with a bunch of crooked, half-dried trees. On the other hand, such tree planting in the fall will certainly please fans of horror films with the results :)

Let there be a fruitful garden!

Landing fruit trees in the fall requires compliance with several rules:

1. A stake must be driven into each prepared hole. The peg is driven as far as possible from the center of the hole with south side. When placed in this way, in the spring it will serve as a small shield from the sun, that is, it will protect the young trunk from burns. Planting trees with stakes in the fall will prevent the poles from bending. The ideal peg is a thin board without bark 1.2-1.5 m long.
2. Before planting, it is advisable to compact the soil around the stake (press it with your foot) and leave it to “shrink” for 3-5 days.
3. Plants must be planted no later than a month before the onset of frost.

Further landing garden trees in the fall it involves fertilizing the soil with minerals, placing the root system of the seedling in a hole, digging in and watering the tree. At the end of the work, the seedling is tied to a peg.

Every spring, all gardeners are overcome by “planting disease.” It begins as soon as the snow melts, and it is hardly possible to get rid of its symptoms until the end of May. Occasionally there are summer residents who do not run around markets and nurseries in the spring in search of seedlings - they planted everything in the fall. So, when is it better to plant trees - autumn or spring?

Theoretically, trees can be planted all year round, as long as the ground is not frozen. The most important thing for a planted tree is to have as much contact as possible between the roots and the ground. If the soil is frozen, it cannot be compacted enough to provide this contact. If the roots of the tree hang in the void, it will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the above-ground part. After all, the fact that trees “sleep” in winter does not mean that they do not lose moisture.
If you plant a tree in mid-summer, for example, the biggest problem will again be increased evaporation of moisture, which, however, can be compensated for by frequent watering.
Thus, trees can be successfully planted at any time of the year.
The main thing is to plant correctly and provide careful care. True, why create additional difficulties for yourself and the seedling if there are optimal planting times that reduce these difficulties to a minimum?

The period of physiological or forced dormancy, when trees “sleep” in anticipation of favorable conditions for vegetation, is optimal for planting. “Hibernation” begins as soon as the leaves fall from the trees and lasts until the buds open. The tree doesn’t care when exactly during this period it will be planted. In this case, there are a number of factors that are important for the gardener. Let's take a closer look at these factors.

So, let's look at the reasons why you should not plant trees in the fall:
If the winter is exceptionally cold (as it was just two years ago), the planted trees may freeze. In addition, they can be damaged by heavy snowfall, ice, wind and other weather disasters.
In autumn, planted trees can be damaged by rodents or they can simply be stolen if your garden is left unattended during the winter.
At the same time, there are significant advantages of autumn planting of seedlings:

• In autumn there is a wide selection of planting material, since it is during this period that nurseries begin selling seedlings.
• If you plant trees in the fall, one watering will be enough; the coolness and frequent rains will take care of your pets without your participation.
• Unless the winter is too harsh, the soil will not freeze to the depth of the roots. In this case, the planted tree will grow suction roots over the winter and heal the wounds caused by the transplant.

In the spring, a gardener has a lot of work: he needs not only to plant trees, but also to take care of the old garden, prepare the garden for planting, and so on. It's not such a bad thing to do something in advance to free up time for other concerns.
As you can see, there are more advantages to autumn planting than disadvantages. So if you planted trees in the fall, continue to do so. Now let’s see if you should succumb to the “planting disease” in the spring and plant a couple more seedlings.

Why is it problematic to plant trees in spring:

• When planting in spring, it is necessary to water the seedling twice: at planting and a day later, loosen the soil and cover with mulch. Next, you will also have to water the planted tree frequently, especially if the weather is hot or windy.
• If you are late with spring planting, then the planted tree's chances of survival will be significantly reduced. If the tree has not yet begun to grow properly, but sap flow has already begun, then it can only be removed by providing special care, which not every amateur gardener can do.
• In the spring, the market for planting material is poor - much is sold out in the fall.

During the winter, you have the opportunity to prepare theoretically, draw up a planting plan, based on which you can order seedlings - there will be no hasty decisions.
Winter is not such a “dead” season for a gardener: you can prepare holes, tools, and generally put the garden in order, without rushing.
If you cannot ensure the protection of the site, you will not have to worry about the planted trees all winter.
If you plant trees in the spring, they get one more year of growing season - if planted in the fall, you would have a harvest a year later.
As you can see, there are more advantages here too. So, if your hands are itching to plant a tree, plant it without regard to those who mumble that this is not right. This way and that way is correct. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose the most suitable time for you to plant trees.
Be sure to take into account local weather conditions and features. Residents of the southern regions, of course, are better off planting trees in the fall. Autumns there are long and warm, and spring gives way too quickly to hot summers. And northerners better beware of the harsh winter and plant trees in the spring. However, if you didn’t have time to plant something in March-April, put it off until the fall. If you don’t have time in the fall, fill the gap next spring. The main thing is to plant trees and care for them with love!

I hope you don’t think that planting a tree means digging a hole, sticking a seedling in there and covering it with soil?
Scientifically speaking, for a successful planting process it is necessary to follow a number of rules in which the tree can quickly form an active, functional root system, i.e. so that it takes root and receives the necessary substances and moisture for the development of the crown.
These are the rules I wanted to talk about, and for this you need to answer 3 questions, namely - what? How? When? Almost? Where? When?)

What to consider when purchasing, unless of course you are buying this seedling and not digging it up in the forest or on a neighboring plot. I think it’s worth highlighting a few simple rules:
Purchase from a specialized gardening company or a large company where you can get the necessary advice.
It is advisable to have a label indicating the variety and breed.
So that the seedling does not have any distortions in the crown, crooked trunk, or uneven distribution of branches along the trunk. And at least there must be 3 skeletal branches.
There should be no signs of damage or disease.
If the seedling is in a container, then the roots should not break through the drainage hole.
If the seedling is in a package, then the earthen ball should be dense and proportional to the above-ground part.
Saplings with an open root system should not have damage to the roots, signs of disease, and the roots should not be overdried. And also all leaves of such seedlings must be removed.

When to plant? Here I see two options:
In autumn. The leaves have fallen and the tree does not need to waste energy feeding the crown, so it is busy developing a new habitat. But there is one thing - winter-hardy varieties are planted in the fall, such as apple trees, pears, berries and ornamental shrubs.
In the spring. It is better to plant more heat-loving varieties in early spring, otherwise they will not have enough time to prepare for winter. This applies to apricots, cherries, plums, cherry plums, and weakly winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.
The time for planting large trees differs from, for example, planting lilacs, which are planted from the second half of July to the beginning of September.
P.S. In this case, I meant planting time in those areas where summer and relatively good weather last only 3-4 months.
P.P.S. Seedlings in containers can be planted in summer, as long as the roots are not too dry.

And now the landing itself, only 9 stages:
Mark the landing site. Here we think and plan the development of the future tree for years to come, so that it does not interfere with anything and has the opportunity to grow unhindered. We mark the place and designate a hole, which should be 2 times wider than the earthen ball with roots.
Dig a hole. We separate the top dug fertile layer from the bottom and pour them on opposite sides of the hole.
Loosen the bottom of the hole. This is done to make it easier for the roots to penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the soil.
Fertilize the planting soil. The top layer of soil that we separated is diluted with mature compost or humus (You can read where to prepare compost here). We add pre-prepared fertile soil and mineral fertilizers. The lower unused layer of soil can be used to fill holes on the site, if there are any)
Drive in the stake. We install the support before planting so as not to damage the roots; as a rule, it is needed for large plants.
Place the seedling in the hole. Sprinkle some prepared soil at the bottom of the hole and place the seedling vertically. In this case, we do not recess the root system into the soil (we do not bury it); the root ball of soil should only be lightly sprinkled with soil on top. After all the work, the soil level in the planting hole, taking into account future precipitation, should be approximately 5 centimeters higher than the level of the rest of the site.
Fill the hole with soil. I think it is obvious that before filling the hole you need to remove what the root ball of earth was wrapped in, it could be burlap, paper, etc.
Tie the seedling to a support. Tie the seedling to the support in the shape of a figure eight with soft twine. The twine should not cut too much into the tree bark.
Water the planting thoroughly. We compact the soil around the trunk, and make a roller along the edges of the hole for watering. We water the tree trunk well (so that the roots come into contact with the soil), then sprinkle (mulch) it with peat or humus to a depth of 5 cm.

correct landing fruit trees

It is preferable to plant deciduous trees during a break in the growing season, that is, in early spring before the leaves bloom or in the fall after the leaves fall.
The best time for autumn planting is considered to be mid-September and all of October, but you should focus on specific weather conditions.
Spring planting is carried out after the soil has thawed, which in temperate latitudes usually occurs in mid-April - early May.
On moist, heavy and compacted soils, it is recommended to plant trees in the spring.
In areas with early, harsh winters, it is also preferable to plant seedlings in the spring.
Heat-loving trees and shrubs are planted in the spring after late spring frosts, since they may not survive the winter if planted in the fall.
When planting trees in the spring, you need to make sure that the ground has thawed and does not have frozen areas.
It is not recommended to plant trees during prolonged rainy weather, during frosts or dry hot weather.
Coniferous and evergreen plants should be planted in late autumn, late summer or early autumn, so that they have time to take root and nourish the above-ground part with moisture in winter.

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