September has arrived. With the arrival of autumn, the main work on the site was completed. Harvesting is the most enjoyable work. Although cunning summer residents are already taking care of spring plantings and selecting seed material. The article describes how to properly prepare seeds for spring planting. And here, summer residents will be given advice on what can be done to reduce the amount of work that awaits them in the spring.
How to prepare seeds for sowing
Having chosen the ripest fruits, the gardener keeps them at home for a little longer until they are fully ripened. Then, after clearing the seeds from the pulp and washing them with running water, they are dried in the open air.
Those that are planned to be planted in the spring are placed in bags. In mid-winter, the seed material is hardened. To do this, they are placed directly in bags in the freezer for a couple of hours or buried in the snow.
Then each seed is glued with paste onto toilet paper so that the distance required when planting is maintained between them. It is necessary to keep the seeds in this state until they dry completely. After this, the paper is rolled up. Now you need to hide the seed material until spring in a dry, dark place.
In the spring, you just need to spread the paper on a well-moistened bed and sprinkle it with soil. This will significantly speed up the planting process and reduce labor costs.
We dig up the horseradish and plant it again
Horseradish should be dug up in the fall in early October, when the lower leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. Large roots are selected for use, cleared of soil and stored in boxes with dry sand in the cellar. You can put them in paper bag and keep in the bottom vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.
Small roots are cut into 30 cm pieces, tied into bunches and buried in the same bed until spring. But if you want to save yourself the trouble of planting horseradish in the spring, you can plant these cuttings of roots in October so as not to replant them in the spring.
Plant something in winter and relieve the work in spring!
Many crops can be planted in the fall. This will give the plants an advantage. After all, with the first rays of the sun, the seeds begin to wake up. By the time other summer residents are just throwing their seeds into the ground that has dried out after the snow melts, the first shoots are already green in the beds of the cunning summer residents.
True, there are some secrets here.
Seeds are planted when the air temperature is 1-3 degrees, since most seeds germinate already at +5. The best time There will be such time for planting that real frosts will occur 5-9 days after it. If the seeds “wake up” in the fall and sprout, they will die with the onset of winter. This means that all the work will go down the drain.
The process itself is as follows:
- The furrows for planting are prepared in October, carefully compacting the soil underneath them.
- At the same time, soil is stored in bags or boxes with which the seed material will be sprinkled.
- Seeds are planted at a temperature of 1-3 degrees. In some cases, this work can be carried out even with the onset of frost, if the land for filling the seeds has been prepared in advance. There is no need to water the beds.
- The seeds are sprinkled on top with previously prepared soil and compacted again so that they are not washed away by melt water in the spring.
Winter garlic
The best one is the one planted before winter. The largest cloves from the largest heads are selected for planting.
The mother's bottom is removed before planting! It is already dead and will only interfere with the formation of roots in young plants.
Garlic is planted before winter in the same way as seeds (this was described above) - in grooves prepared in advance with the onset of cold weather. It is important to observe the depth of its planting.
There should be at least 3 centimeters of soil from the top of the clove to the surface.
Experienced experts advise mulching garlic beds in winter so that in spring melt water stopped at the landing site.
Autumn is the best time to plant trees
It is believed that it is in the fall and even at the beginning warm winter need to plant:
- pears;
- apple trees;
- cherry;
- frost-resistant plums;
- gooseberry.
Planting can be done from mid-October to the end of November, sometimes in December.
It is important to remember: seedlings must be fresh! Otherwise, there is a risk that they will not have enough strength to survive the winter frosts.
Video about planting winter garlic
Autumn work at the dacha - video
Autumn is the period when we need to prepare the garden for winter period. It is at this time that we need to lay the foundation for a successful and fruitful harvest next season.
In this article we will talk about what work we will need to do in the garden in the fall.
What work should you do in the garden in September?
Garden. In the first month of autumn, we need to collect the remaining harvest (with the exception of some winter species) and begin to prepare the plants for the winter period. Very many inexperienced gardeners very often the same mistake is made: the apples on the tree are overexposed, as a result of which they become overripe and fall off.
Such fruits very quickly lose their taste, and they cannot be stored for a long time. In addition, if the harvest is late, the tree will spend additional energy, which of course will affect its health in the winter.
Also, do not forget that winter varieties of apples must be removed from trees before consumer maturity; they will ripen during storage.
September, one might say, is a kind of transition period, that is, instead of the work that we did in the summer, we begin to switch to autumn work.
Already at the end of the month it will be possible to start digging up the soil in the circles around the tree trunks, as well as start applying fertilizers.
In the first ten days of September, we plant rooted currant cuttings (white, red, black).
After the gooseberries and currants are harvested, you can begin to thin out the bushes. This is how we prune raspberries, remove fruit-bearing shoots and new underdeveloped ones.
We dig up the soil around the berry bushes, simultaneously applying organic and mineral fertilizers.
At the end of September, for planting, we begin to take tree seedlings and rooted cuttings of berry cuttings from the nursery.
In the first half of September, we begin to plant head lettuce seedlings in a heated spring or winter greenhouse. For of this plant The watering regime, which will be carried out in the autumn-winter period, is of great importance, that is, in order to avoid the appearance of rot, watering should not be too frequent.
In September we begin stocking up on soil, peat, compost and manure. We continue to actively care for autumn plants tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, etc.
We begin to disinfect the walls and shelving of the greenhouse, frames, using for these purposes a 40% formaldehyde solution or an infusion of bleach (400 g per 10 liters of water).
In the first half of September in heated film winter greenhouses you can sow parsley. By January you will already have 2 harvests of parsley. We do the same with celery.
You can also start harvesting rhizomes of perennial vegetable plants.
Vegetable garden in open ground . In September it will be possible to start collecting carrots, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, parsley, and celery. This work is the most important in the garden this autumn month. We begin to clear the beds that are free of vegetable crops from plant residues and weeds, and then begin digging.
By this time all should be completed preparatory work for the storage of vegetable crops.
In the first half of September we continue to care for late varieties of cabbage.
What work should be done in the garden in October?
Garden. In October it will be possible to start pruning trees. We begin to clear the fruit tree trunks of dying bark. Using lime mortar, we whitewash the trunks and skeletal branches.
We spray the tree crowns with the same solution. After the leaves fall, we treat the trees with a 6-8% solution of ferrous sulfate.
We continue to cultivate the soil in tree trunk circles, adding organic and mineral fertilizers, and, if necessary, lime.
October is also a more suitable period to fertilize fruit and berry plants. In cases where there was no rain in autumn, and fruit trees were not watered so often, we carry out moisture-recharging winter watering along the trunk circular ditches. The soil itself must be moistened to a depth of 50-60 cm.
Also, after the leaf fall period, you should not leave fallen leaves under the trees (we collect them and burn them).
If possible, remove heaps of grass and manure, branches and brushwood off-site. This way you can eliminate the possibility of attracting mice to the area for the winter.
To prevent the branches of young trees from breaking under the weight of snow, we tie them together.
To protect the bark in early spring from rodents and sunburn, we tie the trunks with roofing felt, roofing felt or spruce wood.
We begin to cover the tree trunk circles with humus and peat, and cover them with soil from the inter-row spaces. When the first snow falls, we throw as much of it as possible onto the tree trunk circles.
We are also starting to prepare the berry fields for the winter. We cultivate the soil, always adding organic and mineral fertilizers.
We tie young currant and gooseberry bushes so that they are not broken by snow. We untie the raspberry shoots from the trellises. We bend and pin their tops to the ground or connect neighboring bushes together.
Having finished processing berry plantations, cover the plantings with peat or humus, but so that the centers of the bushes are not covered.
Vegetable garden in a greenhouse or greenhouse. In October we sow new varieties of parsley for greens. To new year holidays we have fresh greens on the table, we plant root vegetables with petioles and keep them at temperature conditions 4-8°C
We are carrying out preparatory work for growing vegetable crops in the new season. We begin to wipe the wire frame with kerosene, on which the film of the spring greenhouse has been holding all this time.
For disinfection wooden parts greenhouse we use a 10% solution of copper sulfate.
In October, you must definitely stock up on fresh soil, peat and humus, since in the future you may not have such an opportunity.
Vegetable garden in open ground. In October, we need to complete all harvesting work with crops grown in open ground.
We remove all plant debris from the vacated beds and begin to dig up the soil, but at the same time adding fertilizers. During digging, we also remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds and destroy the larvae of pests (if any).
What work to do in the garden in November?
Garden. This month of autumn, all work on the garden plot should be completed. Every day the soil begins to freeze deeper and deeper. Before frost sets in, we will need to drain water from external water pipes and barrels and remove them from the garden. watering hoses, clean and dry all gardening equipment.
To prevent the fertile soil from being washed away, we make furrows across the existing slope on the site. We place shields and other means of snow retention in windy areas.
Snowless period for fruit roots and berry crops can be very dangerous, and therefore you need to take care of their safety. Using peat and spruce branches cover the tree trunk circles. For these purposes, you can also use a special covering material.
Vegetable garden in a greenhouse and greenhouse. In November, the fruiting period of autumn-winter crops - cucumbers, tomatoes and lettuce - ends.
After disinfection, the greenhouse can be used for forcing green onions, sorrel, celery, and parsley.
Vegetable garden in open ground. In November we insulate perennial vegetable plants, we check and calibrate vegetable seeds. We monitor how vegetables are stored in our cellar or basement.
You should also not forget about organizing food for the birds remaining for the winter. We hang feeders in the garden and vegetable garden, not forgetting to periodically add food there. In the future, the birds will thank you by destroying caterpillars and larvae of insect pests.
Autumn is the time for gardening chores, because winter is ahead with its weather surprises and troubles; who knows what she has in store for us... And we may not be able to warm the trees in the winter cold, but we have a great opportunity help them prepare for this difficult period. There is enough work in the garden in the fall. So let's not waste time - let's go to the garden! We will tell you what to do in the fall at the dacha.
Harvest!
Autumn work in the garden you should start with harvesting. There should not be a single apple or berry left on the trees and bushes. The remaining fruits contribute to the preservation and spread of pests and diseases. If all the good things have long been eaten, and the remaining gifts from the garden are clearly not suitable for food, they should be collected and disposed of. You can bury them in a hole or burn them. You cannot leave apples under trees or throw them into a hole behind a fence. This is tantamount to leaving them on the branches.
Don't delay cleaning. Autumn varieties Apples and pears are harvested in the first half of September. Late autumn and winter - at the end of September or early October. Remaining unharvested for a long time, the fruits not only lose their taste, but also do not allow the tree to fully prepare for winter.
Autumn fertilizer.
Autumn work in the garden and vegetable garden necessarily includes the application of fertilizers and various nutritional supplements. IN different time plants in the garden and vegetable garden need different ratios of nutrients. In autumn, increased levels of phosphorus and potassium are required. These macroelements contribute to good ripening of wood, the accumulation of substances necessary for overwintering and a good spring start, have a positive effect on root growth and the formation of a future harvest, and increase plant resistance to certain diseases. They are also useful for improving the taste of fruits and their intense coloring.
And here nitrogen fertilizing must be excluded in the fall. This element provokes untimely growth of shoots and makes it difficult for wood to ripen. As a result, without having time to prepare for the cold, trees and shrubs are easily damaged even by slight frosts.
Fertilizers can be applied in both liquid and dry form. The fertilizer solution is prepared according to the instructions (the recommended concentration should not be exceeded) and the plants are watered at the roots. Foliar feeding is not carried out in the fall: the leaves at this time are coarse, protected by a dense covering tissue that is practically unable to allow various substances to pass through.
Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed throughout the tree trunk circle, after which the soil is shallowly dug up or loosened. Good results are obtained by applying fertilizers to the holes. To do this, make 3 - 4 holes 20 - 25 cm deep around a tree or bush, the required dose of fertilizer is evenly distributed over the holes, and the holes are buried. Do not make holes too close to the trunk: fertilizers are absorbed only by absorbent roots. They are located approximately along the perimeter of the crown. After applying dry fertilizers, the plants must be watered.
Fertilizers should not be left on the soil surface: potassium and phosphorus slowly move deeper into the soil, and phosphorus is easily absorbed by soil particles, becoming inaccessible to plants.
If the soil in the garden is acidic, deoxidizers are added ( dolomite flour, lime, chalk). It is useful to contribute. It is not only a good deoxidizer, but also a source of ash elements. But first, to determine the norm, determine the acidity of the soil in your garden.
The appropriate doses of the drug are indicated on the packaging. It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil annually, because most mineral fertilizers contribute to acidification of the soil.
Watering
What to do with your vegetable garden in the fall? Water, but wisely. Wet autumn or abundant watering can provoke autumn growth of shoots, which interferes with preparations for winter. Trees oversaturated with moisture most often receive frost damage. Therefore, as a rule, nothing is watered in the fall. However, if the weather is dry, it is necessary to water the plants. Plants suffering from drought in the fall do not have high temperatures.
It is important to water the soil thoroughly before frost. Moist soil retains heat well and protects roots from sharp changes temperature. Dry soil in the garden, on the contrary, easily allows air to pass through and quickly cools to its temperature. As a result, the roots may be damaged already at the first frost.
Autumn work in the garden and vegetable garden - soil cultivation.
As in summer, in autumn it is important to ensure that the soil in the tree trunk circles is loose and free of weeds. Overcompaction and crusting prevent the penetration of air necessary for root growth and nutrient absorption. These processes require a lot of energy, which is released in the process chemical reactions, occurring with the participation of oxygen.
If there is not enough air, root growth stops, the supply of nutrients decreases, the plant quickly weakens, and resistance to diseases and adverse weather factors decreases. Such a plant is not able to prepare well for winter and can suffer even in fairly mild winters.
During leaf fall or immediately after it, it is useful to dig up tree trunk circles with the obligatory turning of the soil layers. At the same time, insects wintering in the ground find themselves in unsuitable conditions and in most cases die. Therefore, such autumn work in the garden is necessary. After digging, the ground is leveled with a rake. It is useful to mulch at this time. tree trunk circles organic materials (composts, grass, manure, leaves). Moreover, if the trees have already gone dormant and upper layer the soil is frozen, you can even use fresh manure. roots from hypothermia and sudden changes in temperature, and in the spring - as they decompose - it serves as additional nutrition.
When pouring mulch, it is important to ensure that the base of the trunks remains free: filling the root collar can lead to its heating. It is advisable to combine digging and mulching with autumn application fertilizers
Leaves are an excellent mulching material. It is best to use leaves from trees that do not have common diseases with fruit crops.
We fight diseases and pests.
In the fall, it is not advisable to spray trees and shrubs against pests and diseases. Short days and lower temperatures force insects to seek winter shelters - at this time there are very few pests on plants, and the overwintering stages of pathogens are little susceptible to chemicals.
The only treatment that is useful to do in the fall is spraying trees, shrubs and the soil around them with a concentrated urea solution. 500 - 700 g of urea are diluted per bucket of water. Spray during active leaf fall or after it. Such autumn processing work in the garden contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues, and in the spring it will partly serve as additional nutrition.
We whiten the trees!
Trees need to be whitewashed, or rather painted, in the fall or early winter. For this they choose garden paint with the addition of fungicides and a good adhesive base. It will help get rid of pests and pathogens that overwinter in the cracks of the bark. And at the end of winter it will protect trees from sunburn.
It is better not to use water-based chalk and whitewash, as they will be washed off by the first rain.
Whitewashing in the spring is primarily decorative and does not perform any significant protective functions.
Autumn pruning
In the Russian climate autumn pruning fruit trees do not carry out: when frost sets in, the cut areas may freeze. And, if it is still necessary to remove some branches, then they need to be cut with a margin, 5 - 10 cm further from the intended location. Final pruning is carried out in the spring.
In the fall, sanitary pruning is usually carried out - diseased and damaged branches are removed. Branches infected with diseases should be burned. if left in the garden, they will serve as a source of new infestations.
Be sure to prune berry bushes in the fall. , gooseberries, old branches, as well as weak and poorly located ones. If necessary, thinning is carried out. It’s better not to leave this work until spring. It is not always possible to prune branches in early spring, before the growing season begins. From raspberries, those branches that were already with berries are removed.
Autumn work in the garden also includes caring for flowers. For the winter it is necessary that they overwinter well.
What to plant in the fall at the dacha
In autumn, a huge number of seedlings go on sale. After all, right now nurseries are digging up young trees from the fields. It is better to purchase seedlings in the fall. But it is better to postpone planting trees until spring, especially if we talk about stone fruits (cherries, sweet cherries, cherry plums and others). It is unknown what kind of winter it will be. And when planted in spring, the tree will have time to take root well and become stronger.
Autumn is the time to plant trees and shrubs. To make it easier to navigate when buying seedlings, follow these recommendations: choose plants for planting that are one or two years old with a well-developed root system (approximately 30 - 40 cm long for plants with an open root system). The height of a one-year-old should be approximately 1 m, and a two-year-old should be 1.5 m.
Seedlings purchased in the fall are stored in a trench in the winter, laying them at an angle, with the crowns of the seedlings oriented to the south. It is best to place them in a place protected from the wind and midday sun. To protect against mice, the trunks are wrapped with agrospan or other non-rotting materials, and poisoned baits are laid out. To ensure that the soil settles well, holes for spring planting of seedlings are prepared in the fall.
Don't forget to change to permanent place pinned early summer young plants berry bushes. Now is the time for this. Also, immediately after harvesting or in early autumn, it is necessary to remove the supports and remove the fences around the fruit berries. This year they will no longer be needed.
Tell:
There is still a lot of work to do in the garden: we are harvesting the harvest, planting berry bushes and strawberries, and putting the garden plantings in order.
We collect and store apples
When picking apples, do not shake or knock them off the branches. If they are damaged they will not last long. You need to carefully, without pressing, take the apple in your hand and simply turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, and it will come off.
Fruits affected fruit rot or bitter pitting (even pinpoint lesions), should not be stored.
Harvesting apples.
Fruits affected by scab at the beginning of summer can be stored well. But if the damage is caused by late scab, for example in August, the fruits in storage will rot. Fruits damaged by leaf rollers or second-generation codling moths also rot.
Planting strawberries and berry bushes
If you didn’t have time to plant strawberries in August, try to do it before mid-September so that they have time to take root properly before the cold weather begins.
The main care for strawberries in September is watering, covering exposed roots, freeing strawberry hearts, and loosening the rows.
At the beginning of September, prepare pits for planting fruit trees to plant seedlings in early October.
For berry bush seedlings, cut off broken branches after leaf fall. Cut off and burn the ends of shoots affected by powdery mildew. It is better to plant them from September 20 to October 10. When planting berries in the fall, do not prune them, except for raspberries, for which pruning increases winter hardiness.
Can be sprinkled with soil horizontal layering of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, chokeberry for propagation.
If you made cuttings of shrubs in the spring, at the end of September you can dig them up and plant strong seedlings with roots no shorter than 20 cm in a permanent place. Weak ones - for growing.
Escapes non-frost-resistant varieties At the end of September, carefully bend the raspberries to the ground along the row and tie them to a neighboring bush.
To prevent diseases, you can spray the bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Trap belts on tree trunks.
To protect trees from the winter moth, the females of which late autumn climb up the trunk to lay eggs on the leaves, apply glue rings or cardboard funnels coated with non-drying glue from the inside, directed with the bell downwards.
We process tree trunks and shrubs
An important autumn event is digging up the soil in the trunk circles of fruit trees and berry bushes. This is necessary to loosen the soil and allow air and moisture to penetrate into it.
In addition, digging up the soil in the garden disrupts the overwintering conditions of pests - sawflies, caterpillars and pupae of harmful butterflies. Some of them fall into the depths during digging and will not be able to get out in the spring; some turn out to the surface of the soil and die from frost.
You should not dig the soil under the trees deeply to avoid damaging the fibrous roots. Light loosening of the top layer is sufficient.
If you don’t dig up the soil in the fall, you’ll have to do it in the spring, when there will be a lot of work to do in the garden. But the main thing is that you will promptly provide useful activity to microorganisms that create fertile soil.
In the spring, it is enough to harrow the soil cultivated in the fall with a rake lengthwise and crosswise.
When digging in the fall, it is necessary to add rotted manure or compost to the clay soil. They can be replaced with blackened ones sawdust or chopped straw.
Fresh sawdust must first be enriched with one of the nitrogen-containing fertilizers:
- urea
- ammonium nitrate.
Fill three buckets of sawdust with a solution (3 tablespoons per bucket of water).
After this, put the enriched sawdust in a pile and cover with film for a month. They bring them in 2 buckets per square meter. m of clay soil or 10 sq. m of loamy soil.
We process the tree trunk circles.
If you couldn't add manure or compost and you don’t have sawdust, dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel fresh stems and leaves perennial lupine, beans, beans, beet tops and carrots are a good organic fertilizer.
Crushed stems of marigolds and marigolds, embedded in the soil, cleanse it of pests and fungal diseases.
Together with organic fertilizer add coarse grain river sand. Some gardeners replace it construction sand which promotes soil compaction.
In autumn they grow intensively apple and pear roots. They need to be fed: per 1 sq. m 3-5 kg of organic matter, 10-12 g of potash fertilizers, 30-40 g of superphosphate. Fertilizers are applied when digging tree trunk circles. The land must be pre-watered.
Don't forget to mow your lawn before winter. If this is not done, in the spring it will be difficult for the grass to grow through the sod and it will emerge unevenly.
Last weeding Spend under trees and berry bushes at the end of the month and leave the weeds right there.
You can read more about processing tree trunk circles
To water or not to water garden trees in September
You cannot water trees in September: this can cause secondary growth of shoots and possible freezing in winter. In prolonged dry weather, you can water young trees that do not bear fruit.
In young apple and pear trees, pinch out strongly growing shoots so that the wood ripens before the onset of severe frosts. Trim the vines in October to avoid weeding.
Carry out sanitary pruning of trees. Cut into a ring (until the ring is formed at the base of the branch) all dried and diseased branches. Cover all cuts with garden varnish. Remove or loosen the film on budding and grafted cuttings.
What work can gardeners expect in September?
Your garden: work of the month.
September, although an autumn month, is full of summer worries: watering and feeding vegetable beds it is necessary, it is not too late to sow some crops:
- radish
- salad
- dill
- rukulu
- Japanese cabbage
- spinach
In short, if we are going to extend the vegetable season until late autumn, you won’t have to sit back, there’s still a lot to do. So what kind of work needs to be done in the garden in September?
We are starting to prepare the ground for next year's harvest.
Summer is over... True, there are still many warm days ahead. Precisely warm ones, not sultry ones, when you don’t want to go out into the sun.
In September, spring performance will return to us. And the time required for watering and loosening is much less than in summer. And that's by the way. After all, there is so much to be done: to find a use for the grown crop, and to restore the tired land for the next season.
Preparing the beds.
The latter is perhaps no less important than the former. Therefore, if the cucumbers in the garden no longer please you (the leaves have turned yellow, there is no growth, and therefore no harvest), do not wait until the vines are completely dry. Empty the bed, add half a bucket of compost or humus, a tablespoon of complex fertilizer per square meter, dig up and sow with green manure.
If you plan to sow early-ripening vegetables or plant potatoes in this area next season, the following will be suitable as green fertilizer:
- mustard
- phacelia
- peas
Before the onset of stable cold weather, you will embed these green manures shallowly into the soil and in the spring you will have a bed with rested, fertilized soil.
If you are going to occupy a cucumber bed in May with nightshade crops and plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants here, then you can sow the plot winter rye in order to embed it into the soil in the spring.
Cucumbers are considered good predecessors of garlic. Therefore, you can prepare the vacant bed for this crop. This must be done in advance so that the soil in the garden bed has time to settle and the cloves can be
the cages were not drawn to excessive depth.
We add humus to the vacant beds.
Add up to a bucket of humus or compost, a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate (or a spoonful of nitrophoska) and dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel. The bed is leveled, and if the soil is dry, then it is watered to provoke the germination of weeds and destroy them before planting the garlic.
Do you want to get on the vacant bed autumn harvest radishes, lettuce, dill? This is also an option: changing crops gives the soil rest. Just when harvesting the radishes, leave the tops in the garden: let them at least partially repay the “debts” to the soil.
Don’t try to keep it in the beds before the frost, they gave their main harvest tomato bushes early varieties. A few unripe fruits can be put to use (preserved, put for ripening), and plants crushed with a shovel can be placed in compost or as the bottom layer in a garden bed.
But you can only chop it up and put it in compost healthy plants. Sick plants will have to be burned.
We clean, take care, hurry...
If you don't have a refrigerator for winter supplies, do not rush to harvest root crops intended for storage. It will be warm in the basements for a long time and there is no point in putting vegetables down there - they will begin to wither.
And even more so, do not rush to dig up the parsnips: the later you remove them, the more significant the root crops will be. You can dig them even after frost, and some can be left in the garden bed in the winter - for the spring table or for obtaining seeds.
Let's pester you again petiole celery. To make the petioles juicier and more tender, we feed the celery with mullein infusion, adding a tablespoon of complex fertilizers (per 10 liters).
Eat the leeks.
We continue to loosen leek. If we see that after all our thinning it is still growing thickly, we pull out the weaker plants and use them for culinary purposes. Hill up the plants again to get larger bleached stems.
We continue to care for summer-sown cucumbers, seedless and indeterminate tomatoes, peppers, eggplants: they still have at least another month to harvest.
If there are a lot of ugly fruits on the cucumbers, feed them with an organic infusion or mineral fertilizers: a teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate per square meter. m. Can be carried out foliar feeding urea (1 g of fertilizer per liter of water).
In September they take shape favorable conditions for the development of powdery mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, late blight on tomatoes.
We will not use chemical fungicides, since they have long term expectations, and biological preparations (phytosporin-M. alirin-B) can be treated to help the plants last until the end of the season.
Cucumbers sown in August, so that they do not suffer from temperature changes and do not get sick, can be covered non-woven material.
Cut off completely sorrel leaves if they are affected by powdery mildew. They still have time to grow.
Feeding perennial vegetables
It won't be superfluous fertilizing (a tablespoon of autumn complex mineral fertilizer per sq. m) and for perennial vegetables: onions, mucus, chives, sorrel, rhubarb, asparagus.
An adult rhubarb bush can be planted at the end of the month. The dug up rhizome is cut with a knife so that each section has a good bud and 1-2 large roots. We keep the roots in the sun for several hours to dry the wounds.
Meanwhile We prepare planting holes: we dig them 80-100 cm apart from each other, fill them with compost or humus (3-5 kg), complex mineral fertilizer (up to two tablespoons per hole) and spill them well with water. We mulch the planted cuttings with compost or humus.
Paying attention to cabbage
Considering the weather, shortened daylight hours, cool nights, we reduce watering for mid-season and late cabbage, otherwise cracking of the heads of cabbage is inevitable. We immediately cut off the heads of cabbage that begin to crack, without waiting for them to burst completely, and use them for business. You can also ferment it.
You can’t break off cabbage lower leaves. Some summer residents are convinced that such an operation helps the heads of cabbage to ripen better. This is a misconception.
But we continue to loosen the cabbage rows after each watering and rain. This stimulates the work of the roots and, therefore, makes the cabbage more nutritious, tasty and juicy.
Cabbage in September can be damaged by slugs: they really like the early autumn weather. To reduce the number of these slippery pests, you will have to collect them by hand (preferably with tweezers) early in the morning or evening from the plants, sprinkle the damp soil around the cabbage with mustard powder, wood ash.
And, of course, lay out There are boards and rags next to the beds in order to destroy the slugs hiding under them in the morning.
Hurry up to harvest before the rains.
U Brussels sprouts at the end of the month we trim the top so that the plants direct everything nutrients onto the cobs already formed on the stem.
On the pumpkin vines We pinch the growing points so that at least 5-7 leaves remain before the fruit. We reduce watering, giving the grown pumpkins the opportunity to ripen. We also pinch the growing points of the melons.
You need to remove the onions before the rains
While it's dry and warm, remove late varieties onions grown from seeds. The warm weather of September will allow it to dry well and protect it from neck rot.
The sun is no longer so merciless, so the dug up bulbs, laid in one layer, can be dried directly in the garden bed. We stir the bulbs from time to time. From well-dried onions, the loosely fitting upper scales easily fall off, and the onion becomes clean and beautiful.
Don't forget about potatoes
Without waiting for the rains, it is advisable to dig up potatoes May planting. And yet, first make sure that the tubers are ripe, because these potatoes will have to be stored. The skin on the tubers should be dense and non-sucking.
When digging up potatoes, we do not throw them into a bucket, but carefully place them. Injured tubers easily become sick.
After digging, dry the potatoes immediately, spreading them in a thin layer, and then transfer them indoors for 2-3 weeks. During this time, wounds caused during harvesting become scarred on the tubers, and diseases appear.
Lower the potatoes We’re not in a hurry to go to the basement: it’s humid and warm there. And the storage needs to be prepared to receive the new harvest.
Feeding plants planted in July
In September we continue to care for vegetables planted in the second half of summer. We feed the bloomed potatoes with wood ash, scattering it between the rows. Immediately loosen and water.
Feed the potatoes.
Instead of ash you can use complex fertilizer for potatoes or simply with a reduced nitrogen content (a tablespoon per square meter). In autumn, excess nitrogen is especially dangerous for potatoes: they increase the likelihood of plants being damaged by late blight.
A mixture organic infusion(0.5 l) and complex mineral fertilizer (a tablespoon per 10 l of water) feed cauliflower and broccoli planted in July.
Sprinkle the beds of daikon and radish with wood ash. This is both feeding and protection against cruciferous pests.
It is advisable to cover cucumbers sown in August with lutrasil to reduce the negative impact of changes in night and day temperatures.
Collecting a “herbarium” for the kitchen
Very sensitive to low temperatures many spices. Parsley, dill, and celery still have the whole of October ahead of them, but basil, marjoram, lemon balm and other herbs are a must, without putting them off until later.
Once dried, they can be ground in a coffee grinder and scattered into different jars. In winter, herbs can be mixed and used to season meat, fish, salads, soups, make tea from them, add to cookie dough, etc.
Such homemade “spices” are undoubtedly better than store-bought ones, because we know for sure that nothing was added to them for taste and aroma.
A trimmed basil bush can be dug up and transplanted into small pot, filled with fertile soil mixture. If you cut off the flower panicles in time, the plant will delight you with its fragrant leaves on the kitchen window for a long time.
Just don’t put off transplanting until October: basil dies even when the temperature drops briefly to zero.
What to do in the flower garden
At the beginning of autumn, flower growers also have a lot of work. Read about it
The end of the warm season and the beginning of the cold season is considered one of the hottest periods in the life of summer residents, since work in the garden and vegetable garden is especially active in the fall. Special attention turns to harvesting, summing up the results of the summer season, as well as preparing for the winter.
The entire extensive list of work in the garden is conventionally divided into periods, and for each of the months - September, October and November, one or another list of tasks is determined. These types of activities in the fall have many similarities with those in the spring, but the main emphasis is now on preparing plants for winter, as well as on carrying out harvesting work on personal plot. For each autumn month, as well as for that matter, certain events are intended to be carried out, and it is important not to miss the timing favorable for their implementation. What work is done in the garden and vegetable garden in September, October and November?
Compared to the summer months, the days become much shorter and the air temperature drops noticeably. The main types of work during this period are:
Sanitary cleaning
The first step is to start removing the weeds growing on the site, as well as get rid of dry vegetation and foliage. You should not neglect the cleaning of fallen fruits, since they are the home for many pests, which, with the onset of the first warm weather, will begin to increase their population. All collected dry leaves, as well as diseased branches, must be destroyed or transported outside summer cottage.
September is considered favorable period for circumcision and transplantation perennial plants, since the earth is well saturated with moisture and warmth, and there is plenty of time for good rooting before the first frost appears. In addition, they plant and bulbous plants such as daffodils, lilies and crocuses. It is during this period that conifers and deciduous trees and shrubs, as well as raspberries, gooseberries and blackberries.
In some regions, the beginning of autumn is a favorable period for sowing lawns, but this must be done with caution. After all, autumn weather is quite deceptive and warm and humid days may be replaced by frosts, in which case all work will have to start from scratch.
Preparing the garden
In September, active harvesting is carried out in the garden. The beginning of the month is a favorable period for digging up potatoes and root vegetables such as carrots and beets, and at the end of the month it is recommended to start collecting pumpkins, zucchini and cabbage.
Don't forget about fertilizing the soil. Many summer residents prefer compost, which is natural fertilizer, others choose organic in the form of manure, humus or peat. Because the nitrogen fertilizers have a stimulating effect on plant growth, then they should be abandoned.
Spending time on trees and shrubs
The end of the month is a favorable time for planting young seedlings, however, the ideal period for heat-loving plants is still spring. It is worth paying attention to the preparation and planting of currant cuttings. Preparing shrubs for winter consists of three stages: cutting off old branches and the hilling procedure.
You can improve air movement, as well as oxygen access to the root system, by loosening the soil around the tree. It is recommended to cultivate the land around bushes taking into account individual characteristics one plant or another. For example, currants are positive about deep loosening of the soil, but raspberries like loosening only the surface layer of soil.
Of no small importance is whitewashing the garden, which is considered the final stage in preparing trees and shrubs for winter season. Many summer residents consider whitewashing only a way to protect plants from garden pests, and therefore it should be produced only in the spring. However, this opinion is erroneous, since whitewashed trees become less susceptible to severe frosts that occur at the top of winter.
What else should you pay attention to this month?
- The lawn is mowed and combed using fan rake. To improve soil drainage, the lawn is pierced with a regular pitchfork.
- Artificial reservoirs located on the territory of the summer cottage are not large sizes need draining. All equipment and vegetation are stored in a special room. Do not forget about cleaning reservoirs, as well as removing various debris.
- September is a period of active harvesting, so the room intended for storing vegetables and fruits must undergo a disinfection procedure using soda or formaldehyde solutions. This will help prevent the fruit from becoming infected with mold and will also increase their shelf life.
- Underway active work on catching and destroying garden pests, since some of them begin to lay eggs on tree trunks during this period.
- In a greenhouse, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil, since this is what good place for wintering garden pests. The collected soil is mixed with compost and poured into a compost pit.
- In order to prevent the root system of raspberries and sea buckthorn from growing to the sides, slate or roofing material folded in several layers is dug into the ground.
- At the beginning of the month, to increase the yield next year, the leaves of strawberries and wild strawberries are trimmed, and they are also fed with organic fertilizers.
Autumn work in October
Summer cottages located in close proximity to the metropolis still feel the breath of heat, which is explained by the influence of the “greenhouse” effect. More remote territories are sinking deeper and deeper into power natural conditions. October is the average autumn month, which is characterized by the process of abundant leaf fall and the complete end of the summer season for colder regions.
Necessary attention to trees and shrubs
The second month of autumn is a suitable period for planting young seedlings and renewal orchard. If it becomes necessary to transplant mature trees, you have to wait until their leaves fall completely and only then begin work.
In October they are replanting fruit bushes to a permanent habitat, and also begin to prepare the trees for the winter season. To do this, carefully loosen the circles around the trunk, and then, after thorough watering, insulate the soil with the help of dry leaves, grass or manure.
Before the end of October, it is recommended to plant trees and shrubs with open areas. root system, since a later time is only suitable for planting plants with closed roots. Pruning of diseased, dry branches and branches that do not produce an abundance of crops must be completed before the first frost. In October, work continues on the formation of the crown of trees and shrubs and stops with the onset of subzero temperatures.
Preparing flowers and bulbs
At the end of October, all plantings of bulbous plants need to be mulched with peat or humus, which will allow them to survive well. cold period of the year. Before the middle of the month, it is necessary to dig up gladioli, dahlias and begonias in order to move them to a special room for wintering. It is recommended to carry out such work at above-zero air temperatures in sunny and clear weather.
Don’t forget about preparing perennial plants that remain in the ground over the winter. It is important to pay attention to the condition of the leaves: dead and diseased foliage must be trimmed and burned. To improve the condition of the soil, the soil around the flowers should be loosened and the required portion of fertilizer should be added.
You can start planting annual plants, such as aster, calendula, poppy and cornflowers, taking into account the weather conditions. It is necessary to sow seeds for the winter in cold weather at the first signs of soil freezing, so that when they fall into earthen room, went into hibernation. Warm and sunny weather can trigger the plant to grow even this season, leading to its death.
In October they begin preparing flower beds for spring planting, which includes loosening the soil, killing weeds and leveling the surface layer of soil. It is too late to seed the lawn this month, as unexpected frosts can cause the death of young shoots.
Garden chores
Of all the variety of crops growing in the garden, the most cold-resistant is lettuce, which can sit quietly in the garden until winter sets in and snow appears. After the first frost occurs, its green shoots are cut off and wrapped in any non-woven material. Leeks also remain in the open ground for wintering, and they feel comfortable all winter in a layer of compost or sawdust.
The tops of potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers remaining from the harvest must be collected and destroyed. The remains of such vegetable crops are poisonous, so you should not use them for compost or bury them in the ground to rot.
At the end of October, it is recommended to start planting dill, lettuce, spinach and radishes. The ideal weather conditions for this process would be cold autumn weather, but without severe soil freezing. If a light crust of ice appears on the ground, then this is absolutely not a problem; such soil is quite suitable for sowing seeds.
After the plots have been completely cleared of the crop, the garden is dug up, which differs from doing this type of work in the spring. In the fall, you should not break up large lumps of earth while digging, as is done before preparing the soil for planting vegetables. This is explained by the fact that it accumulates in the ground a large number of larvae of garden pests that have settled there for winter hibernation. Large clods freeze much better than small ones, which leads to the death of harmful insects.
Final pond cleaning
When preparing a pond for winter, it is worth trimming underwater oxygenating plants that enrich the water with oxygen, as well as dark coastal plants. You should work so that the stems protrude several centimeters above the water, which will allow oxygen to enter the water when the pond freezes, as well as bring harmful and toxic substances from the depths of the pond to the surface. It is necessary to complete the cleaning of the pond by removing the flowers and leaves of water lilies, as well as bringing non-frost-resistant aquatic plants into the house.
What else are we doing on site at this time?
- Work continues to restore order in the garden and vegetable garden;
- trees and shrubs that have already completely shed their foliage are replanted;
- The soil in the garden is being prepared for the upcoming spring planting. It includes the addition of potassium and phosphate fertilizers, as well as manure and ash. To increase the degree of protection of the soil and better warm it up in early spring, cover ready-made ridges with black film;
- If there is soil with high acidity on the site, liming is done with chalk or lime.
Final winter work in the garden and vegetable garden in November
November is the last month of autumn, finally closing the summer season. This month is distinguished by its grayness, gloominess, big amount precipitation and the appearance of the first permanent snow at the end of the month. Short day lengths and cold weather increasingly remind us that the summer season is coming to an end. However, even now for a real gardener there are many types of activities in the garden and vegetable garden.
Caring for trees and shrubs
Fruit trees and berry bushes are characterized by a state of deep dormancy, and cold weather contributes to the natural hardening of plants. The young seedlings have shed their yellowed foliage and gotten rid of the fruits, and right now the cuttings represent a real storehouse of the plant’s vital energy, which will actively manifest itself when nature awakens in the spring.
A suitable temperature for storing cuttings is considered to be from minus 2 to + 4 degrees, which is quite problematic to achieve at home (but quite possible in the basement of a garage). There are several ways to store cuttings, the most common of which are:
- The cuttings are placed under snow cover and stored there throughout the winter. However, this method is not entirely reliable, since winters have recently been characterized by a small amount of snow and their unpredictability;
- For storage, you can use a cold room, such as a basement. This method is not suitable for all plants, and early thaws that warm the house with a basement can cause the cuttings to awaken earlier than expected;
- with a small number of cuttings, you can use the refrigerator as a storage room.
In recent years, there has been a long autumn with a lot of rain, which reduces the resistance of plants to the effects of cold weather, so it is important to insulate them for the winter. On branches bare of leaves you can see nests of ringed and gypsy moths, hawthorns and lacewings, which must definitely be removed and destroyed.
November is a favorable time for sanitary pruning sick trees, as well as those affected by a large number of pests, and stripping of trunks. Fallen leaves and diseased fruits must be removed from the site and tree trunks treated. Whitewashing of tree trunks ends in November lime mortar, as well as tying trunks and skeletal branches using spruce legs, cherry and plum branches. If a frosty winter is expected, then you should take care of the raspberries: the shoots are tied to each other and bent to the ground. Under dense snow cover, the plant will be able to survive the winter safely.
Worth taking care of protection winter garden from hares and rodents that choose as a home places with a large accumulation of garbage, branches, straw and manure. Typically, tree trunks are wrapped in old newspaper, on top of which a layer of roofing felt, oilcloth or thick fabric and sprinkle the resulting structure with earth.
The planting of crops such as hawthorn, rowan and viburnum is completed, the seedlings of which are placed in a pre-fertilized hole, covered with earth and watered the right amount water.
What do we do in the garden
In November, in the southern regions, the final harvest of the grown crop is carried out, and the soil free from planting is also dug up. This work must be completed before the first snow, otherwise a large amount of moisture will penetrate into the soil, which will evaporate in the spring for a long time.
Despite the frozen soil, various vegetable crops are planted in the garden in November. Cold weather will not allow the seeds to germinate, and during the winter, under the cover of snow, they will have the opportunity to harden and germinate in full force with the appearance of the first spring warmth. Vegetables that remain in open ground for the winter should be covered with peat, humus, or covered with fallen leaves. Planting of crops such as onions, parsley, lettuce, dill, Chinese cabbage and other types of vegetable crops.
It is necessary to complete the preparation of seeds for the upcoming summer sowing season, which are obtained from pre-cut and dried seeds of beets, carrots and other vegetables. If necessary, they are thoroughly threshed, and the resulting seeds are sifted and packaged in bags. The preparation of mineral fertilizers for the spring season is being completed, and it is also necessary to shovel the compost and add water or slurry to it if necessary.
Preparing the flower garden for winter
In November, the final preparation of the flower garden and its inhabitants for the coming winter is carried out. Perennial plants are pruned to a height of 15-20 cm, which will allow them to retain snow during the winter. The flower garden is cleaned of diseased plant debris, and dry and healthy ones are used to cover flower plants such as roses, clematis, honeysuckle and others. Old plantings of perennials must be watered with mineral fertilizers, and young ones should be covered with peat or humus, which will allow them to survive the cold winter favorably and not freeze out.
Tubers of plants such as gladioli, dahlias, and canna rhizomes are reviewed, sick ones are discarded, and healthy ones are placed in storage. To preserve begonia tubers, they are cleaned from the ground, then dried well and placed in plastic bag with perforation, which is placed in wet sand, peat or sawdust.
Work is underway to insulate climbing roses, which are heat-loving plant and are poorly adapted to life in cold conditions. Before the onset of the first cold weather, their shoots must be pressed to the ground with pins, covered with peat or humus, and covered with paws coniferous trees.
The last worries about the pond this year
November is no longer blessed with clear and sunny weather, but if you have such luck, it’s worth starting to thin out the overgrown plants in the aquatic flower garden. It is necessary to cut off the floating plants at the base using special scissors and remove them from the pond. This procedure must be carried out provided that they occupy a large surface of the reservoir, which can lead to the formation of impassable thickets.
All algae and fallen leaves are removed from the water. In artificial reservoirs there is no need to drain the water until it is completely empty; you can only make the surface area of the mirror a little smaller. Plastic bottles, filled with water and immersed at the bottom of the reservoir, will help maintain the shape of the reservoir bed and not deform. Ponds with fish are never drained; the fish in them are only submerged in water. hibernation. In the southern regions, with sufficient warm water and soil, you can start planting new plants in the coastal zone.
