Rose hips are propagated by sowing seeds, root suckers, dividing the bush, layering, and green cuttings. Root shoots must be grown for 1-2 years in a nursery with good care. Almost all types and varieties of rose hips are propagated by green cuttings. However, growing rose hips from seeds is perhaps the most affordable way its reproduction. But here, as often happens in life, there are some nuances. Rosehip seeds have a very durable shell, which makes their germination very difficult. Therefore they are stratified. However, stratification often fails if the seeds are collected from ripened or overripe fruits.
To sow seeds, collect brown fruits that are not yet fully ripe and reddened, immediately remove the pulp and store them in damp sand in the refrigerator until sowing. Sow them better in autumn so that natural stratification takes place during the winter. Then the next year, in the spring, friendly shoots appear, the care of which consists of loosening the soil, weeding, watering, fertilizing, pest and disease control.
For growing rose hips from seeds, loose, rich organic matter soils, often moistened, with a neutral reaction.
Pre-planting soil preparation should begin a year before planting rose hips. After clearing the area from the previous crop, in the fall the soil is cultivated to a depth of 20 - 22 cm. Acidic soils lime.
It is advisable to apply rotted manure and composts in mixtures with mineral fertilizers. Rose hips can be planted in the fall, before the soil freezes, and in the spring, before the buds open. The seedlings are planted in planting holes measuring 60 x 60 x 60 cm or trenches at a distance of 0.7 - 1.2 m bush from bush.
For one seat contribute 10 - 15 kg organic fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers include 50 g of phosphorus, 25 g of potassium and 15 g of nitrogen.
The applied fertilizers are thoroughly and evenly mixed with the soil. When planting using the trench method, fertilizers are applied over the entire area of the trench, which helps improve conditions further growth and bush development.
The roots of the seedlings are processed in a clay mash, the seedlings are placed in landing hole on a conical tubercle and, spreading the roots around the circumference, sprinkle with earth. The seedling is planted on permanent place 4 - 6 cm deeper.
The soil around the seedling is compacted, watered twice at the rate of 10 liters per plant at a time and mulched. Rosehip varieties are not self-fertile and therefore planting is carried out with several cross-pollinated varieties with the same flowering period.
In increasing productivity and its stability, agricultural practices related to care during cultivation are important. Mulching promotes better survival, growth and development of seedlings in the first years of life. After 2 years, the mulch decomposes and, when incorporated into the soil, has a positive influence on nutrition and aeration during subsequent years of growing rosehip plants.
Mulching improves the water-physical properties of the soil, suppresses weed seedlings, and is especially effective in dry conditions and on light soils.
Full mineral fertilizers for fruit-bearing bushes must be applied annually. In the first years after planting rose hips, bushes should be formed in order to create full-fledged, strong-growth, well-branched skeletal branches. To do this, when planting, cut off each branch in the bush, leaving 2 - 3 highly developed buds. Then, for 2 years, in order to build up the above-ground and root system, the bush is not pruned. In the third year of growing rose hips, the bushes are pruned again. By this time, the bushes form up to 8 strong branches. When pruning, first of all, weak, low-lying, broken branches and branches extending beyond the bush are removed. In this case, you should also remove root suckers, growing outside the crown of the bush. The above-ground system should be expanded, annually leaving 4 - 6 newly formed replacement shoots.
Thus, in the fourth year, the rosehip bushes will have a fully formed above-ground system, consisting of approximately 20 branches of different ages. In the fifth year, the bushes will enter the fruiting period. Further care for the above-ground rose hip system consists of regular, annual removal of fruit-bearing branches. The main and most important technique keeping rosehip bushes in the period of maximum fruiting is to remove 4-year-old fruit-bearing branches as early as possible, which leads to rejuvenation. Enhanced fruiting of branches when growing rose hips can be achieved by creating, using pinching, better conditions for branching shoots at the juvenile stage. Pinching must be carried out after they reach 70 - 80 cm in length.
It also leads to a decrease in crown height, thickening of branches, increasing their strength and preventing the bushes from “falling apart.” You can rejuvenate by completely cutting off all shoots for reverse growth. After this, shoots are formed, from which flower buds are formed the next year.
The collection of rose hips usually begins as the fruits ripen, in the second half of August. Only high-vitamin species, their forms, hybrids and varieties with varied fruit shapes are allowed for collection and delivery to vitamin factories and pharmacy chains for processing. Properly dried rose hips should have a color from orange-red to brownish-red and a wrinkled surface with a moisture content not exceeding 14%, sour-sweet to taste, odorless.
The walls of dried fruits are hard, brittle, the outer surface is shiny or dull and wrinkled.
At the beginning of the process of drying rose hips at home, the outer parts of the fruit are intensively dehydrated, but the inner layers remain almost untouched. This creates a crust on the outside, which further prevents the inside of the fruit from drying. With such drying, a significant amount of vitamins is lost. Therefore, you need to dry rose hips at home cut into two halves. You can dry it in the shade outdoors or in the oven at low temperature. Drying of cut fruit proceeds more evenly with least loss vitamins and biologically active substances.
Alexander
Growing rose hips from seeds. Propagation of rose hips by cuttings.
Rose hip ( dog rose) is included in the pharmacopoeias of many countries due to the high content of vitamins in the fruit. For getting healing berries many gardeners are happy to grow rose hips on personal plots. This plant is also valued as a rootstock for varietal roses. Therefore, nurseries are engaged in the production of rosehip seedlings, growing them on a huge scale. Rosehip reproduces both by biological seeds and vegetatively - both methods are used when growing rootstocks for roses.
Rosehip seed propagation
Growing rose hips from seeds is the simplest and least labor-intensive method of propagation, however, unlike vegetative methods, somewhat longer in time.
Blank seed material It is advisable to carry out this from unripe fruits (after they have turned brown) - the seeds in this case are of the highest quality and have good germination (over 50%).
For seeds to pass through the biological dormancy phase, exposure to low temperatures is required. In nature, rosehip seeds undergo natural stratification, so they can be sown in the fall in a row in pre-cut furrows. The row spacing is selected to ensure ease of processing (weed control, loosening, etc.). The seeding depth is no more than 2 cm. After sowing, it is advisable to mulch the beds with humus, fallen leaves or other organic materials.
With the onset of spring, it is advisable to install a frame with stretched plastic film over the ridges: the soil will quickly warm up and seedlings will appear faster. Subsequently - with a significant increase in ambient temperature - the film cover is removed. After the seedlings develop 2-3 true leaves, they can be pricked out, or the density of the plant can be adjusted by periodically removing weaker specimens.
Caring for rosehip seedlings is the same as for rose seedlings, and consists of weed control, periodic loosening, fertilizing and regular watering.
For spring sowing, the seeds are stratified artificially: mixed with coarse-grained wet sand in a ratio equal to the volume and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, where they are stored until sowing time. It is advisable to sow rosehip seeds in a mixture with a lighthouse crop, for example, radish. The radishes will quickly sprout and define the rows, which simplifies care until the rose hips emerge. Subsequently, the lighthouse culture is removed.
Propagation of rose hips by cuttings
When growing hybrids and rosehip varieties from seeds, varietal characteristics are split, so in this case, vegetative propagation methods are used - cuttings followed by rooting.
The most rational way to propagate rose hips is by green cuttings, which are harvested in early July (at this time the intensity of shoot growth begins to decline). The cut shoots are divided into cuttings so that each contains three nodes. At the bottom node, the leaves are removed with the petiole, at the rest they are shortened by half. The upper cut of the cutting is made straight, at a distance of about 1 cm from the node, the lower cut is made obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees. Cuts must be made with a sharp garden knife, which prevents the tissue from creasing.
Treatment of cuttings with growth stimulants helps improve root formation and develop a powerful root system. For treatment, you can use solutions of heteroauxin or IBA (200 mg of heteroauxin and 50 mg of indolylbutyric acid per 1 liter of water). The treatment lasts for 12 - 24 hours, while the cuttings are immersed in the solution with the lower end to a depth of about 3 cm.
Prepared rosehip cuttings are planted obliquely in a substrate prepared from peat and sand in a ratio of 1:3. The root formation process lasts 3 - 4 weeks, so in the first month it is necessary to strictly observe the humidity regime, preventing the substrate from drying out. Rooting in protected soil has the advantage that it is easier to maintain air humidity - otherwise, it is necessary to spray the cuttings daily with a spray bottle. For humidification, ideally use artificial fog installations, or at least an automatic fine spray system (the switching interval is set within 10 - 15 minutes). A month after the start of rooting, the frequency of spraying is reduced.
It is advisable to grow rooted seedlings without film cover, shading them, if necessary, from scorching sun. Such seedlings develop hardened, which has a positive effect on their preservation during wintering.
For the winter, the surface of the soil in the cuttings is mulched with humus and fallen leaves. In snowy winters, they are additionally covered with snow.
At vegetative propagation seedlings reach standard characteristics in the 2nd year, and in the 3rd year when seeded.
varieties of roses for your garden Beauty will save the world! lawns, hedges, topiary
Growing rosehip rootstocks from seeds
for those who do not have the opportunity to purchase ready-made rosehip seedlings for grafting, but want to make a rose with my own hands irresistible.
- Collection and storage of seeds
- Sowing in the ground
- Obtaining seedlings and agricultural technology
Collection and storage of seeds
Garden stores sell mainly flower and vegetable seeds. Seeds of trees and shrubs, with rare exceptions, are nowhere to be found. Therefore, you will have to collect rosehip seeds yourself. Where to collect them? Yes, anywhere - even in your garden. at least in the next field.
Self-collection has a number of advantages:
1.You will know exactly which plant you are taking the seeds from, and you will appearance Already now you are assessing the resistance of the mother plant to your specific conditions: frost resistance, drought resistance, susceptibility to disease, etc.
2. You have a choice of plants if there are enough of them: of course, the seeds are collected from the healthiest and strongest plants. Your seedlings will not necessarily retain all the beneficial properties of the parent, however, the likelihood of this is quite high.
The varieties of rose hips used for rose rootstocks definitely matter, but more so for professionals than for beginners.
Rosa Laxa- a fairly popular rootstock, reliable, tolerates replanting well, produces almost no shoots, and has almost no thorns.
Rosa Multiflora- produces strong and powerful plants.
Rosa Canina(dog rose) - produces the most hardy roses, although it grows spindly. But it is the most common wild Rose: Grows widely throughout Europe and surrounding areas of Asia and Africa. And with a larger share Most likely you will collect seeds from it.
3. Collecting seeds in best period - it is very important, when to collect seeds to prevent them from going dormant
The dormant state is a special natural biochemical mechanism that controls development and delays seed germination until favorable weather conditions occur. Without delving into all the classifications of seed dormancy, we note one thing: roses (rose hips) have seeds with combined dormancy - waterproof covers and the need for exposure to low temperatures
To prevent the formation of waterproof covers and the seeds going into a dormant state. They must be collected unripe and not allowed to dry out. The collection begins. when the rose hips just begin to turn yellow or slightly brown
At this time, the seeds change color from green to light yellow and yellow.
It is during this period that natural mechanisms are activated, putting the seeds into a state of dormancy.
Isolating seeds from rose hips is a boring and rather tedious task. Everyone decides for themselves how to do this. From simple scraping with a fork to various mechanical methods. When using fur. ways to keep an eye on that. so as not to injure the seeds too much, although light scarification will not harm them. After separating the seeds, they must be washed: poured into a suitable container and filled with water. to stir thoroughly. separating floating seeds and pulp
The next stage in interrupting the biochemical inhibition of seed development is exposure to low temperatures (stratification).
The easiest way would be to sow the seeds in open ground, where they will undergo natural stratification over the winter. But in warm winter(what winters we have!) The period of exposure to cold may not be enough and seed germination will be delayed for a year or more. To ensure seed germination, they are subjected to artificial stratification. Rosehip seeds are mixed with wet sand (1:1). The mixture is poured into plastic bag, keep for 2-3 days in a warm room for the seeds to swell. More long time They cannot be stored in such conditions, especially in a thick layer, because they are capable of self-heating, which will lead to damping off and death of the embryo. Then the bag is placed in the refrigerator, where the most low temperature(but not negative). Two to three times a week, turn the bag over and shake it. The seeds should not lack moisture; they will have to be monitored periodically. If the seeds a large number of they are divided into small batches, packaged in separate bags.
You will have to keep them in the refrigerator, shaking and turning them over, checking for moisture until the time of sowing in the ground - autumn. There's nothing you can do about it. Moreover, exposure to the cold is not terrible.
Everything you have already read about has a great influence on the viability and germination of seeds, and this should not be underestimated.
In the fall, in October, they begin sowing seeds in open ground. It is advisable to carry out sowing in best conditions- in a well-drained, airy bed, easily moistened in cool weather. The soil has been well prepared since the summer, which is first dug up (without adding fresh manure), then the lumps are broken up, the roots of the weeds are carefully removed and the top is cut with a rake. Heavy soils are lightened with sand, etc. Special attention pay weed control . because in the future this will create serious problems, including at the stage of caring for roses. Good result provides cover of row spacing with black landscape fabric, the number of weeds is reduced to a minimum.
The seeds are sown on a carefully divided bed, in grooves to a depth of about 3 cm. The soil should be moist and have a fine lumpy structure. Rose hips have small seeds, so to achieve uniform sowing they are scattered along with sand. After sowing the seeds, they are pressed to ensure good contact with the ground. Sprinkle on top coarse-grained sand. Coarse sand, in a layer of 1.5 cm, provides good drainage on the surface and a uniform flow of water into the soil. The seeds are well aerated, and weeding is easier. In such a bed the seedlings will grow very comfortably and pleasantly.
Finally, the garden bed is watered
Obtaining seedlings and agricultural technology
In the spring, as soon as they are created favorable conditions environment, the seeds begin to germinate.
Spring sudden changes in external environment, for example, too rapid an increase in temperature, drying of seeds, lack of oxygen, can cause the seeds to fall into secondary dormancy, from which it is extremely difficult to remove them.
At the beginning, germination depends on the moisture supply of the soil, so the soil should always be moist.
As soon as the first green leaves form on the seedlings, they need to be fed with nitrogen and potassium.
We won’t talk about possible frosts, but keep an eye out for the appearance of pests (green aphids) or fungal diseases ( powdery mildew or root rot) will have to.
If the seed germination is friendly, the seedlings are picked, leaving the best of them at a distance of 8-12 cm. The picking is carried out when the seedlings reach a height of 3-4 cm. If the bed was prepared according to the rules, there will not be many weeds on it.
When favorable weather conditions and good agricultural technology, it is possible to obtain quality rootstocks (5-8 mm thick) by the time of summer budding - late July early August. Budding is carried out on the same bed, but the distance between the rootstocks is increased to 12-20 cm.
When. if the rootstocks do not reach required diameter root collar, or the spread in diameter is significant, seedlings continue to be grown until autumn. In the fall they are dug up and sorted by quality. diameter of the root collar. The tap root is pruned at a height of 10-12 cm. This technique stimulates the formation of lateral roots and at the same time facilitates subsequent planting. Next, replanting is carried out in the ground at the optimal distance for future budding of 12-20 cm in a row, between rows 80-100 cm.
How to carry out budding yourself, see budding of roses
Growing rose hips from seeds
Growing rose hips from seeds is perhaps the most affordable way to propagate it. Rosehip seeds germinate well, but only if:
#8212 collected at a certain time,
#8212 passed stratification,
#8212 were sown at a specific time.
When to collect rosehip seeds for sowing ?
Rosehip seeds for sowing are collected from bushes in August, not from ripe or overripe fruits, but, surprisingly, from unripe fruits, when the dense shell of the seeds has not yet had time to harden. Rose hips should be brown, only slightly reddened.
The seeds are separated from the pulp, washed without allowing them to dry out, mixed with wet coarse sand in a 1:1 ratio and stored for two months before sowing in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally.
Why is seed stratification needed? ?
Rosehip seeds are covered with a very durable shell, which makes germination difficult. In order for the sprout to germinate calmly, the dense shell that covers the rosehip seeds must be partially destroyed. This is achieved by prolonged exposure to cold in a humid environment: the seeds are placed in damp sand and stored in the refrigerator until sowing.
When to sow rosehip seeds ?
It is better to sow seeds in autumn. In this case, natural stratification of the seeds will take place during the winter, and friendly shoots will appear in the spring.
Sometimes rosehip shoots appear only in the second spring, so do not rush to throw away the box with the sown seeds; shoots will certainly appear, but a little later.
Spring sowing of rosehip seeds
If it is expected spring sowing seeds, then the seeds are stratified artificially. Immediately after harvesting, the seeds are removed from the fruits and mixed with clean, wet river sand, or a 4:1 mixture of sand and peat, put in a box, put in the basement and stored at a temperature of 2-3 degrees until sowing in the spring, stirring occasionally.
Autumn sowing of rosehip seeds
In October, rosehip seeds are sown in open ground in rows, so that a hoe or cultivator is passed between the lines to loosen the soil, with embedding no deeper than 2 cm. Mulch with sawdust and humus.
In early spring, to speed up germination, a frame with plastic film. In this case, regular ventilation of crops and seedlings is necessary. When two leaves appear on rosehip seedlings, the thickened crops must be pruned. When the spring temperature rises, the film is removed.
Rose hip care
Caring for rose hips during the summer is no different from caring for roses in the summer: weeding, loosening, watering, fertilizing, protection from pests and diseases.
Gardeners value rose hips and how medicinal plant, having beneficial properties. And How ornamental plant with very beautiful flowers and fruits.
Growing rose hips from seeds is completed autumn planting rosehip seedlings to a permanent place. Growing rose hips from seeds #8212 is the most affordable way for a summer resident, if you know what, when and how to do it correctly to propagate rose hips from seeds.
Growing rose hips
Reproduction of roses, like other plants, is carried out sexually or asexually (vegetatively) in several ways. The main method of propagating roses in a nursery is budding.
In most cases, to obtain rosehip rootstocks, seeds of a common species - the canina rose - R. canina are used. A good or completely benign rosehip intended for rootstock production must have the following properties.
- It must be completely winter-hardy in the area for which it is prescribed, drought-resistant where required, and completely immune to fungal diseases.
- It should produce shoots or branches that are, if possible, devoid of thorns or have the latter to a minimal extent, and when grown into trunks, form the latter to a minimal extent. short term. In other words, it must have the fastest and strongest growth possible, combining this property with maximum frost resistance.
- It should be as smooth and straight as possible root collar, which greatly facilitates the production of grafting and especially budding when obtaining bush, i.e., low-grafted roses.
Some authors have also expressed an insistent wish that the ideal rosehip, when sown in the fall or with timely stratification, sprouts in the first spring, and not in the second, and does not have to keep the seeds sanded or surrounded by moist soil for two winters and one summer between them, as is the case is now being practiced. However, in the author’s opinion, this nature of seed germination and similar germination in the second spring are generally characteristic of many tree and shrub species by nature, and it is unlikely that it will be easy to change this property of rosehip seeds at our request.
There is, however, a statement that if the seeds, or, more precisely, rose hips to obtain seeds, are collected not in the fall, when the fruits have already turned red, but at the end of summer, precisely at the moment when they just begin to turn red and when the woody shells of their seeds have not yet completely hardened, then such seeds will sprout when sown in the fall next spring, and not in a year.
Such statements, however, require thorough verification. According to the author, it is much more expedient to simply collect the next annual collection of rosehip seeds, immediately stratify them and sand them in a box, not allowing the seeds and the surrounding sand to dry out, keep them moist until the fall, when they are sown on seed beds, where seedlings will certainly will appear in sufficient abundance next spring. From the above, by the way, it follows that in our rose culture in Russia it is necessary to acquire or plant mother-seed plantings of rose hips in order to collect and obtain seeds for rootstocks that would produce rose hips that have all of the above desired properties. It’s not so difficult to do this, you just have to want it. Not much space will be required to plant such a mother-seed rosehip plantation, and our flower farms will have to do this over time. But for this it is necessary, first of all, to find raw material, i.e., an ideal rose hip with the above-described qualities - rose canina. If desired, this is also possible in the north.
Of course, it cannot be considered normal in any way that for sowing and obtaining rosehip rootstocks: - canina in the north, for example, in Leningrad region, you have to take rosehip seeds from the south, where there is a lot of it, for example, from the Northern areas. Caucasus, not to mention the fact that in in this case We do not know at all what kind of seeds we get and what qualities the rootstocks obtained in this way will have. It would be a completely different matter if we had at our disposal everywhere, especially in the north, rose hip plantations with the required qualities and properties.
Rosehip seeds obtained in winter must, as already mentioned, be sanded (stratified). Stratification consists of taking 1 volume part of seeds to 3 parts of wet sand, then sand and seeds are mixed well and evenly.
The seeds sanded in this way are placed in a cool place. It is advisable to bury the seeds in the snow until spring. It is necessary that the seeds do not dry out, and therefore in the spring, when the snow melts, the dishes with the seeds are not buried deeply in the still damp soil so that the seeds remain moist all the time.
It is unacceptable to sow rosehip seeds without stratification to obtain rootstocks in the first spring, since the seeds will not germinate then and there will be no seedlings until next spring. In the fall, before the onset of frost, the seeds are sown on seed beds. In this case, the sowing is done relatively densely, keeping in mind the subsequent green picking and the fact that the seeds with such somewhat dense sowing will better or more easily lift the layer of earth above them when they emerge. The author generally does not admit at all to obtaining seedlings or rosehip rootstocks without green picks. In fact, what is the point of getting rosehip seedlings with poor roots or a single root going deep, when at relatively low costs (for green picking) you can get first-rate rosehip seedlings with good branched fibrous roots.
We call green picking the transplantation of newly emerged small green seedlings onto picking ridges, which have managed to develop, in addition to the cotyledons, only one or two leaves. The sooner such a seedling is picked, the better.
During the green picking made in spring, the tip of the root is shortened, which causes the root to develop branches, forming a fibrous root system. At the same time, seedlings planted during green picking at an equal distance from each other receive sufficient area for development.
Careful, timely preparation of the soil for picking ridges, as well as the application of organic fertilizers, are absolutely necessary.
The beds for pricked rosehip seedlings are prepared as is generally customary in the area. On ridges, seedlings are planted not in longitudinal, but in transverse rows, row from row at a distance of 20 cm, and seedling from seedling in rows at a distance of at least 5 cm. Watering is required only the first time. Rosehip seedlings usually tolerate replanting or green picking well.
Maintenance during the summer consists of loosening the surface of the ridges and weeds, and if necessary, watering. The ridges remain in this form until spring. next summer and autumn, when the same care for seedlings is applied as in the first year. In the autumn of the second year, the seedlings grown on the ridge will be two years old, and then they usually must be dug up and sorted in the fall, and, if necessary, sent to another place in proper packaging.
Rosehip seedlings are usually not left on the ridge for more than two years, and this is usually not necessary, because by the autumn of the second year, even in the north, these seedlings reach such a size that it is impossible to leave them longer on the ridges, but give them when picking or planting on the ridge there are large ones against the shown distance there is no calculation. Here in St. Petersburg nutritious soil You always get fairly good two-year-old wild rose hips, some of which can be used for grafting into the neck in winter, and some for summer budding.
Two-year-old seedlings dug out of the ridges in the fall are sorted by size and vigor into three grades: first, second and third. Weaker specimens can be planted again in the ridges until they reach a size sufficient for improvement. The strongest plants are selected, if necessary, to obtain trunks. For this purpose, selected specimens are planted in a special quarter, and the greater the distance between seedlings in this quarter, the better. But since you usually have to save space, it is clear that too large distances between individual bushes are not acceptable here either.
To obtain strong trunks from rose hips after planting, no cutting or removal of branches should be done; on the contrary, the more of the latter remain and the stronger the bush, the better. How longer bush the rosehip will sit in one place, the stronger, thicker, and most importantly, the higher you can get annual shoots - future trunks. On average, to obtain standard shoots, a rosehip bush must remain in one place after transplantation for three years. But, in general, this period greatly depends on local conditions.
When the rosehip bushes grow shoots strong enough for trunks by autumn, only one strongest shoot is left on the roots of the bush; all the rest are removed.
Talking about standard rose hips, here it should be said that in St. Petersburg it has long been customary to use rose hips with 3-4 branches or shoots coming from the root for rootstocks, grafting them in the winter in a greenhouse at a height of 20-25 cm. To obtain such branched or several stemmed rootstocks, it is best to plant annual canina and after two years you can expect the desired result on good soil.
I had to observe that rosehip seedlings are sometimes affected by linen in the first year. This must always be kept in mind when growing rose hips on rootstocks and, just in case, have in stock means to combat linen and other diseases and pests.
As for the choice of rosehip variety - canina - for the rootstock, it should be noted that in Russia, if you wish, you can find quite a lot of different forms of rosehip suitable for this purpose, including those that are quite frost-resistant in the north.
For his part, the author considers the red-leaved rosehip - R. rubrifolia - to be the most worthy of our attention as a rootstock. This rosehip produces strong bushes and tall boles in St. Petersburg, and its frost resistance is complete here. This species is attributed to being susceptible to rust, as indicated, by the way, by R.I. Shredder. But at the same time, the same R.I. Schroeder considered the species R. rubrifolia to be an excellent rootstock for grafting roses.
This may be explained by the fact that in the north there is generally less rust, which, however, cannot be said about more southern areas.
Prof. I.I. Kichunov
Rosehip is a genus shrub plants Rosaceae family, close relative garden rose.
It is used as an ornamental plant that decorates the garden with beautiful pink flowers. Can serve as a hedge equipped with thorns. It is also valued for its fruits, which have medicinal properties and containing large amounts of vitamins.
Description
- Height: up to 3 m;
- Branches: arched with spines;
- Flowers: pink-white or pink, bloom in May-June;
- Fruit: red, 20 mm long;
- Seeds: hairy with a dense skin.
When to plant rose hips
The best times for planting rose hips are considered to be autumn (September-October) and spring (before the buds open). It is important to remember when planting that rosehip is a cross-pollinated shrub, and for the fruit to ripen, the plants should be planted close to each other, at a distance of about a meter, for a hedge - 50 cm.
How to grow rose hips from seeds
1. Seed collection
- The seeds are collected in August from unripe, slightly reddened fruits, when their shell has not yet hardened;
- They are cleaned, washed and allowed to dry;
- Mix with coarse wet sand 1:1.
2. Stratification
note
Seed stratification is the creation of conditions close to natural for their better germination.
To do this, the seeds are placed in the refrigerator or basement, along with sand (for at least two months), stirring regularly.
It is produced in the fall, since during the winter the seeds are better stratified. Rosehip shoots may appear next spring or in the second year.
- Seeds are sown in open ground to a depth of 2 cm;
- Watering is carried out;
- The earth is mulched with sawdust and humus;
- In early spring, crops are covered with film to speed up germination, and ventilated regularly;
- After two leaves appear, the crops are planted;
- At stable positive temperatures, the film is removed.
If the seeds are planned to be sown in the spring, then in winter they should be stored in damp sand in containers at a temperature of 2-3 degrees, for example, in the basement, stirring them periodically.
Propagation of rose hips by cuttings
The disadvantage of growing rose hips from seeds is that this results in the loss of some varietal characteristics. Therefore, growing this shrub using cuttings is more often used.
Cuttings are harvested in early July, when the growth of the bush slows down. For this:
- Healthy strong shoots are selected and cut off;
- Cuttings are made from cut branches, each containing three nodes;
- The upper cut should be straight, 1 cm higher from the node, the lower one at an angle of 45 degrees.
All cuts are made with sharp garden knives to prevent tissue removal;
- All leaves are cut in half, and the petioles are removed at the lower node;
- The cuttings are immersed in a solution of growth stimulants (heteroauxin or IBA), 3 cm for 12-24 hours;
- Planted at an angle in open ground or in boxes, in a mixture of sand and peat (3:1);
- After planting, water abundantly;
- Roots form within 3-4 weeks;
- Already rooted seedlings must be grown without covering material, shading them from the sun, then they will overwinter better;
- For the winter, the ground is mulched with humus and leaves. And in winter they cover it with snow.
Rose hip care
Rose hip unpretentious plant and requires weeding, loosening, and moderate watering during drought.
The plant prefers ventilated, bright places with fertile soil, without stagnant moisture.
In early spring it is necessary to fertilize with humus and. Mineral fertilizers are introduced during the same period, and after leaf fall.
In July, rose hips should be fed with slurry, infusion of bird droppings or mullein. They are introduced into grooves up to 10 cm deep, which should be made 70 cm from the bushes.
Rosehip pruning
It is produced only in the spring, especially in places with a harsh climate, so that the plant can overwinter. In the second year after planting, diseased, weak and broken shoots are pruned. Strong shoots (4-5) are shortened to 60-100 cm for tillering. Excess root shoots that thicken the bush must be cut out.
IN further pruning is also produced. Two-year-old shoots are pruned to 4 buds annually.
Over time, it is necessary to cut out unproductive old shoots (6-7 years) and replace them with young, strong shoots.
High productivity of rose hips when proper care observed for 10-12 years.
Updated: 10/17/2016
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How to grow rose hips from seeds When the rose hips are ripe, they need to be picked and kept for two weeks. After grinding the berries, rinse the seeds extracted from them thoroughly and sow them in any soil to a depth of 1.5 cm, keeping a distance of 5-6 cm. If the plants are thickened, they need to be broken through, leaving only the most developed ones. YOU NEED TO SOW ROSE HIPS IN THE AUTUMN Then the seeds will undergo natural stratification and in early spring they will give good shoots. The plant will continue to grow for a year. When the seedlings take root and the stem is sufficiently developed (0.5-0.8 cm thick), you need to graft (using the budding method) with a bud (eye) from the variety you like. In order to grow rose hips, we vaccinate during the period of optimal sap flow, somewhere in June-July, when the two-year-olds of this plant reach 0.8 cm. First, you need to sharpen the knife well and prepare the tying material (you can take electrical tape, and do the tying with the non-sticky side) . We graft roses onto rosehips. When everything is ready, we cut off a branch of a rose (of the variety that we want to graft) and take an eye from it: we cut off a leaf on which there is an already developed bud. Next, we take the middle of the shoot and in one motion cut off the bud with the bark so as not to touch the wood. Then you need to try to plant the eye on the rosehip as low as possible. To do this, it is better to kneel down and make an incision in the shape of the letter T on the rosehip shoot as low as possible to the ground level (the base is about 2 cm, the upper crossbar of the incision is 1/3 of the thickness of the neck). With the second side of the knife, fold both sides, in one movement, place the scion (eye) there and carefully wrap it. At the same time, we cut off the leaf, only the stalk remains. If after a week, lightly touch the scion site with your finger: if the petiole falls off, it means that the budding was carried out correctly: the eye has taken root. If everything is dry and the petiole does not fall off, the procedure must be repeated. The vaccination is carried out from the north side to protect it from sun rays. When the bud grows, after two to three weeks you need to cut off the rosehip above this eye. It must be planted in the ground in such a way that the grafting base is level with the ground, not higher. Then the rosehip will not sprout. How to plant rose hips To grow roses from a bouquet, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort. Yes, and you need to train your hand to graft roses onto wild roses. It is optimal to take 15-20 varieties of roses that you like. Cut the bouquet, taking into account that the length of the stems should be at least 15-20 cm. When cutting cuttings, make an oblique cut on top, and an even cut on the bottom. We put them in water, immersing them 5-6 cm (no more is needed), adding a teaspoon of honey for each liter of water. The roses will stand this way for about a week, then they need to be pruned to the level of a well-developed bud. Then let it sit in the water for a couple more days. And only then we plant them. On a note. Never take flowers from the store for rosehip grafting. They are preserved, so they will not produce roots. You need to take cuttings directly from the bush. If cuttings are taken late autumn, and you keep them in the house until spring, then they will take root. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the water level: when it evaporates, add more (but only take settled water and not boiled), add honey, a little black coal, aloe juice to stimulate root growth. http://ogorodko.ru/category/tsvety-i-klumby/rozy If autumn is late and there is no time to plant, let the cuttings stand until spring - then plant them with roots. After planting, it is imperative to shade them from the sun, because the plants developed in greenhouse conditions(in the house) and outside have not yet acclimatized. Preparing cuttings for planting First, prepare plastic bottles or banks. Next, you need to trim the leaves: cut off the bottom completely, and shorten it near the top bud, leaving two slices, and plant it at an angle of 45 degrees: so that three buds are in the ground, and one is on top. After which they need to be well watered and covered with a jar. They will take root and begin to grow. And next year in the spring, when the frosts have passed, slowly open them. The first time is at night, when the sun goes down. Then - several times a day to get used to the sun's rays.
