Growing raspberries in the country. Raspberry variety "Apricot"

Raspberries do not require special care and quickly bear fruit.

Therefore, every summer resident can plant this plant on his plot. In addition, its berries make delicious jam and tinctures.

But we’ll find out later when and where to plant, how to care for them.

When to plant raspberries

Depending on the region, raspberry bushes can be planted in both autumn and spring. Autumn is suitable for the southern regions, because it long time maintains positive temperature. And spring - the right time for areas with early and cold winters, then the bush will have time to take root, take root and not freeze.

in spring

It is best to plant raspberries at this time of year from mid-April to May. It is advisable to do it before the buds begin to bloom. However, everything depends on the air temperature.

In the south at this time it may already be quite hot, and therefore it is better not to plant raspberries here in the spring, because the rhizomes simply will not have time to take root and the bush will bud. The plant will not have enough moisture and nutrients and will die.

The northern regions are ideal for spring landing- humidity is maintained and lasts exactly as long as the plant needs to take root.

Important! In spring, the seedlings will take a long time to take root in any case, since the plant has already begun to produce leaves. Therefore, they begin planting as soon as the ground thaws, if frosts are not expected to return.

in autumn

You can plant them already in September. It is better to start a couple of weeks before the soil is expected to freeze, but no later than half of October.

One-year-old shoots from basal buds will be required. They have already grown up and taken root in the ground. They need to be carefully removed from the soil, the shoots of the root system that are too long should be trimmed, and the damaged ones should be removed.

You can determine the readiness of a bush for planting as follows: the leaves begin to fall, the bush stops its growth, and replacement buds grow closer to the root of the seedling.

Where to plant on the site

The speed of establishment and productivity depend on the choice of planting site. A lit place is best, but not empty. There should be trees or other bushes around, which will save the raspberries from strong winds. Choose an area that is usually densely covered with snow in winter.

This is necessary in order to root system was able to withstand even severe frosts from -30 ° C. layer of snow naturally insulates the bush.

At the same time, make sure that groundwater does not stagnate in this place - although the plant loves moist soil, it will quickly rot from an excess of moisture.

Around your raspberry planting there should be no nightshades - , . This rule also applies to the plant’s predecessors. It is better if before the raspberries there were other fruit bushes or vegetables in the chosen place, but after them the soil was fertilized, or it naturally rested and received important elements.

Important! In one place, raspberries can produce a good harvest for no more than 12 years, after which they need to be relocated.

It is worth considering the following rules for a successful landing:

• leave at least half a meter of distance between the bushes, and place the beds 2 meters from each other;
• To prevent the soil from drying out, pour it around the bush, this will help retain moisture;
• rinse the raspberry roots clean water and after a couple of hours with water and fertilizers, this way you will help it settle in place and not harm the roots;
• don't use chemical treatment bushes - the berries ripen quickly and absorb harmful substances;
• After planting, each bush needs 5 liters of water, but do not pour it out immediately - it is better to do this throughout the day.

If all the rules are followed, then by the second year of life berries will appear. The main thing is to remember that after harvesting the branches are cut off.

How to choose healthy seedlings when purchasing

Rules for choosing quality seedlings:

• do not take a plant whose roots are stored in a bag, this leads to rotting and minimal survival rate;
• the smaller the seedling, the greater the chance that it will survive;
• take a bush with 2-3 shoots;
• the roots must be moist, without damage or rotten areas;
• the stem must be hard, whole, without damage and not too long;
• avoid buying “by hand” - instead of a pure variety, they may sell you a wild plant or simply a diseased plant;
• Don’t be afraid to buy from supermarkets; most often they work directly with garden nurseries.

Preparing the site

Before planting, it is necessary to clear the area of ​​weeds. The most dangerous are sow thistle and other perennials with developed rhizomes.
After this, you can proceed to fertilizing the soil. Humus in the soil will help raspberries not only take root, but also give a good harvest. Therefore, before planting, the area is fertilized. Mineral fertilizers are also introduced, after which the ground is plowed to a depth of 30 cm.

The bush is buried in moist soil up to the root collar. After which the plant is cut down to soil level.

Planting methods

There are two ways to place raspberries on a site - in holes and trenches. The second method is considered more effective for obtaining good harvest. At the same time, it is more difficult to prepare for it.

Yamny

A couple of weeks before planting the shrubs, you need to dig holes approximately 40 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Don't forget to leave up to a meter of space between the holes. It is necessary to keep the top and bottom layers of excavated soil separately. If the soil is fertilized according to all the rules, then we cover the rhizomes only with the top layer left.

Did you know? The most ancient raspberry bushes were found in Crete; they grew in the 3rd century BC. e.

If the soil has not been fertilized before, you can pour compost directly into the hole. You will need 10 kg of humus, half a kilo of wood ash, potassium sulfate and superphosphate, 50 and 100 g each, respectively.

Trench method

In an area cleared of weeds, we dig trenches 40 cm deep and 60 cm wide. They can be as long as you wish. But keep in mind that the distance between seedlings should be at least 40 cm.

We cover the bottom with compost or manure mixed with soil to a depth of at least 10 cm, after which we fill the same amount of soil on top. This layer of soil will protect the raspberry roots from the rotting nutrient layer.

Trench method of planting raspberries: video

We plant previously prepared seedlings, moisten the roots, straighten them and cover them with soil. You can check whether you have planted it correctly: slowly pull the seedling, if it does not come out easily, then everything is correct.

How to care for raspberries

Raspberries at the right planting site will not require special care. You'll just have to give her a little attention from time to time.

Watering

Check the soil regularly; if it becomes dry, water the bush. On particularly hot days and drought, pour out 40 liters of water per square meter and a couple of times a week - up to 30 liters. This amount of water will not drown the raspberries, but, on the contrary, will reach the root system and humus.

It is necessary to water before flowering, during the period of ripening of berries and immediately after harvesting.

Soil care

The raspberry root system needs air. Therefore, you need to weed and loosen the bushes after each watering. This should be done no deeper than 10 cm near the branches themselves, and up to 15 cm between the beds.

To prevent moisture from leaving quickly, do. It will help reduce the number of waterings by three times. Top layer The soil is covered with sawdust or peat.

Tying up

Shoots may sink to the ground due to excessive amount berries This can lead to branches breaking and loss of harvest. Therefore, near each bush you can place a wooden peg, to which you can easily tie branches.

You can also install posts every 2 m and tie them with wire. You need to carefully draw shoots between the wire strands.

Top dressing

To avoid covering raspberries with chemicals, pick them - they will perfectly fertilize the soil. If you prepared the land before planting, then the deposit will last for at least 5 years.

Trimming

Raspberries produce too many replacement shoots - they will not bring a harvest, but they will take away nutrients. The normal number of shoots per bush is up to 7. Closer to May, young shoots also grow, then the total number on the bush grows to 10-20. Next spring the driest and damaged ones are cut off.

The tips of the shoots do not bear fruit, so they are cut off to 10 cm. You can increase the growth of side branches if you pinch them at a height of about a meter. This is done in the summer, and in the fall the plant can prepare for the cold.

If you notice that the branches begin to fall off or the leaves dry out, get rid of them immediately. Most likely it is a disease.

Preparing for winter

If the area is too windy and exposed, then bushes are better cover with a tarpaulin. But from time to time they need to be allowed to breathe. Raspberries planted in spring are ready to face the cold. In the fall, it is better not to delay planting, otherwise the rhizome will freeze.

In severe frosts, snow protects the rhizomes from freezing. If it is not there, then the peat poured in advance will not allow the plant to disappear.

Did you know? Raspberry flowers face downwards, so insects can pollinate them even on rainy days.

So, planting this plant requires the gardener to follow certain rules. Only the right place and quality care will help you get a big harvest. Also remember that ripe berries are not stored for more than two days, so use the harvest as soon as possible.

Undoubtedly, garden plant raspberries are one of the most unpretentious. But to receive bountiful harvest It is simply necessary to follow the rules for planting raspberries and the simplest agricultural techniques.

How garden raspberries grow and what they look like (with photo)

From fruit berry bushes raspberries on garden plots is the most popular, delicious and luxurious. Every year we look forward to the raspberry miracle - flaming berries and a specific raspberry aroma.

Raspberries are a widespread crop, grown everywhere throughout almost the entire territory of Russia. It bears fruit regularly because, unlike other crops, it blooms late and is not damaged by return frosts. Loves soils containing sufficient nutrients.

Look at the photo: garden raspberries are a typical subshrub with a perennial underground part, consisting of a rhizome and adventitious roots extending from it, and an aerial part, represented by annual shoots and biennial stems:

The bulk of raspberry roots lies in soil layer 5-20 cm, and only individual roots penetrate to a depth of 50 cm. good soils The deeper the roots can spread, the higher the yield of the bushes.

Raspberries grow as root shoots: root suckers they appear from adventitious buds on the roots of the mother plant. In the second half of summer adventitious roots Many buds are formed, from which by autumn shoots that do not reach the surface of the soil grow. Next spring underground shoots begin to grow and emerge to the surface, forming annual shoots-offshoots by the end of summer, which are located around the bush at different distances. Annual shoots (replacement shoots and suckers) grow in length (up to 1.5-2 m) in the first year of life.

They grow especially strongly in June before the harvest begins to ripen (lower growth). Then the shoots grow at the top, forming new, shorter internodes. Simultaneously with the growth of the shoot, leaves are formed, in the axils of which 2-3 flower buds (main and additional) are formed. They germinate, as a rule, only next year (with the exception of).

When growing garden raspberries do not forget that the strongest, well-developed buds are in the middle part of the shoot. By autumn, the shoots finish growing, shed their leaves, become woody (ripen), which is a necessary condition to prepare plants for overwintering.

The following year, in the spring, their growth resumes, and by autumn they turn into annual root shoots, which are connected by roots to the mother plants for another year or two. Annual suckers usually have an aerial part without lateral branches. Flower buds form in the axils of their leaves. They bloom and form fruit branches various lengths: at the end of the shoot they are short, and towards the base their length increases.

Fruit branches that grow almost at the base of the fruiting shoot have greatest length and often do not bear fruit.

In subsequent years, one or two replacement shoots most often develop from the base of each fruiting shoot. A new replacement shoot grows on the shoot of the previous year, so the underground stem branches and gradually grows upward, rising 5-10 cm above the soil surface.

The formation of new root shoots and young roots located in favorable soil conditions leads to the fact that after 5-6 years the growth of replacement shoots mother bush noticeably weakens and their productivity drops sharply, the bush ages and dies.

Even with good care It is not recommended to grow raspberries in one place for more than 7-8 years.

The number of annual shoots in a bush depends on the variety. Based on this criterion, raspberry varieties are divided into 3 groups: with high shoot productivity (up to 25 shoots), medium (up to 15) and weak (up to 5-10).

In the southern region, raspberries begin to bloom at the end of May. The period of flowering and ripening of berries extends to 30-40 days. About a month after the start of flowering, the first berries ripen. Raspberry flowers are bisexual, so almost all of its varieties are self-fertile, but cross pollination the number of normally developed berries increases significantly.

Here you can look at the photo of what raspberries look like when cultivated in personal plots:

Where to plant raspberries on the site: choosing a place to plant bushes

First you need to decide where to plant raspberries on the site in order to create optimal conditions for them. Raspberries should be planted in separate beds so that the root shoots do not litter the garden.

Before choosing a place to plant raspberries, always keep in mind that this plant is larger than others berry crops, demanding of heat and moisture. With a lack of moisture, the leaves dry out prematurely and the berries become small. If there is excess moisture, the shoots ripen poorly and often freeze in winter.

In areas with sufficient rainfall, the raspberry planting site should be chosen on a hill or on slight slope to ensure drainage of excess water.

Where to plant raspberries if you live in areas with insufficient rainfall? In this case, bushes should be allocated to flat areas. At the same time, there should be no depressions in the beds, since stagnation irrigation water leads to rotting of the roots.

In the central zone of Russia best place for planting raspberries - plains or slopes in the southern, southwestern and western direction. The slope should not be too steep.

Planting and caring for raspberries will be complicated if you plant the bushes on excessively moist, swampy or very dry, open hillocks, steep slopes, eastern and northeastern hills.

Do not plant raspberries along the road side of the plot, near the road, because the berries become covered with dust, and they are not washed before eating or harvesting for future use.

Raspberries cannot be planted in lowlands. Groundwater should be no closer than 1.5 m from the soil surface. Very elevated places are also unsuitable for raspberries, from which snow is blown away in winter, and water drains in spring and summer, which leads to rapid drying out of the soil.

Raspberries should not be planted between the rows of fruit trees; this worsens the water-nutrient regime and makes it difficult to care for them. fruit trees, and for raspberries.

Raspberries should be planted on sunny place, but protected from the prevailing eastern winds, in an area not occupied by the roots of other perennial plants.

Growing garden raspberries: how to properly plant bushes on the site

How to plant raspberries correctly and when is the best time to do it? Raspberries can be planted in spring and autumn, but early autumn is preferable, since the seedlings will have time to take root before the onset of frost and begin to grow early in the spring.

Before planting raspberries on the site, the land must be properly prepared. The site is prepared for spring planting in the fall, and for autumn planting - a month and a half in advance. The soil is dug up with a shovel full, clearing it of the rhizomes of Perennial weeds and incorporating organic and mitral fertilizers.

When planting raspberries in the spring, you should remember that their buds begin to grow early and a delay in planting leads to drying out of the plant and poor survival rate.

Raspberry seedlings must have strong fibrous roots no shorter than 10 cm. The above-ground part of the seedling must be pruned. Unpruned - the next year they form very weak shoots that will not give a good harvest.

Before planting raspberries, you need to dig the “correct” holes: they should be of such a size that the roots fit freely in them and do not bend upward. When planting, the roots are carefully straightened, and the soil around them is compacted.

After planting they produce abundant watering, then the soil around the seedlings is mulched with sawdust, humus or other material, so that when spring planting retain moisture in the soil, and in autumn, protect the roots from freezing in the winter.

Make sure that the root collar of the seedling is at soil level, and that the root bud is covered with soil and is not exposed after watering.

As you can see in the photo, when planting and caring for raspberries, shrubs can be placed in row or strip ways:

When planted in rows, the plants are planted at a distance of 70 cm. In subsequent years, 8-10 annual shoots are left in each bush.

When placed in strips, plants are planted more densely. Moreover, you can plant them in one line 30-50 cm apart and in two lines with a distance between them of 1.5-2 m and between plants in a line of 50 cm. With two-line planting, a ribbon is formed faster, which allows you to get a full harvest earlier . In subsequent years, the width of a single-line tape should not exceed 1 m, since a wider tape makes it difficult to care for the soil and plants.

• Suitable for planting are varietal, healthy offspring with a well-developed root system.
• Before planting, raspberry plants are sorted into strong and weak ones and planted separately.
• For better illumination of plants, rows of raspberries are arranged from north to south. On slopes where soil erosion may occur, rows are made across the slope.
• When planting in late autumn (late October - November), raspberries should be hilled.

These photos show how to plant raspberries so that the bushes quickly take root:

Methods for propagating raspberries by cuttings and root suckers (with video)

There are several ways to propagate raspberries: root suckers, root cuttings, green shoots and dividing the bush. The main and most productive method is propagation by root suckers (root shoots), which grow annually near the bush.

The offspring that grew during the summer are separated from the mother plant at the beginning of leaf fall before planting in the fall. Before digging, they are pruned so that the shoot has a height from the root of no more than 70-80 cm. To propagate raspberries by root shoots, take well-developed annual shoots at least 5-10 mm thick, having 1-2 large buds at the base.

Raspberry varieties that form small quantity root suckers, propagated by root cuttings. To propagate raspberries by cuttings at a distance of at least 30-40 cm from the mother plant in the fall, when plant growth stops, dig up the roots, cut them into pieces 10-20 cm long and the thickness of a pencil and store them in the basement in damp sand until spring. In spring they are planted in well-fertilized soil.

Upon landing root cuttings placed in grooves in rows to a depth of 10-12 cm, the grooves are covered with loose soil and the cuttings are watered until rooting. During the summer, weeding and loosening are carried out as necessary. By autumn, a good one grows from root cuttings planting material, which is planted in a permanent place.

Particularly valuable varieties are propagated by green shoots. As the offspring appear, they are dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted into a separate bed for growing or immediately to a permanent place. After planting, the plants are regularly watered until rooted and shaded. By autumn, well-developed annual plants grow from green shoots.

Raspberry propagation by dividing the bush is used very rarely when the variety does not produce root shoots. To do this, early in the spring, before the buds swell, or in the fall, after the end of growth, the raspberry bushes are dug up and divided into parts, ensuring that each individual part has well-developed roots and several healthy young shoots. Parts of the bush with old rhizomes should not be taken.

The video of raspberry propagation shows how this activity is performed:

How to water raspberries and fertilize bushes

Another important aspect how to properly care for raspberries - watering the plants. During the summer, depending on weather conditions, from three to five waterings are done at approximately the following times: the first - at the end of May, the second - in mid-June, the third - at the beginning of July, the fourth - at the end of July or early August and the fifth - in October .

You need to water raspberries as much as possible - surface watering excluded. The soil under the plants should be moistened to the depth of the main roots - 15-20 cm.
It is impossible to be late with post-harvest (fourth) watering, otherwise plant growth will be delayed, the wood will not ripen well and the winter hardiness of plants will decrease.

Oktyabrsky - pre-winter - watering is carried out in order to create favorable conditions for overwintering raspberries.

Fertilizing raspberries is another important agrotechnical technique for successfully growing shrubs. For correct landing, care and propagation of raspberries, when preparing the soil for a raspberry garden, add 1 bucket of humus or compost, 300 g of wood ash and 80-100 g of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers per 1 m2.

On young plantings in the first years, you can limit yourself to feeding raspberry bushes with organic fertilizers, which are applied in early spring and autumn in the form of mulch, and in the summer in the form of fermented mullein infusion or bird droppings.

On fruit-bearing plantings, you can use humus or well-rotted compost for feeding at the rate of 5-6 kg per 1 m2 of area occupied by plants. In spring 1-2 times is necessary nitrogen fertilizing(15-20 g of urea or ammonium nitrate per 1 m2), then before flowering and after harvesting, apply 60-80 g per 1 m2 complex fertilizer(Nitroammofoska or any organo-mineral); in the fall, 2-3 weeks before the end of the growing season, give phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. The dose of fertilizer is adjusted in accordance with the growth rate of the bushes and the yield.

It is also useful to use liquid fertilizing with complete mineral water-soluble fertilizer(“Solution”, “Aquarin” or “Agrolux” is normal according to the instructions) for root watering and foliar spraying.

How to properly care for raspberries (with video)

Plant care. In the spring, the survival rate of autumn-planted plants is checked in a young bed; dead ones are removed or replaced with new ones. Care consists mainly of systematically loosening the soil and weeding. The beds are loosened to a depth of 4-5 cm so as not to damage the roots.

It is very important to induce strong shoot growth in the first years in order to form full-fledged bushes and receive high yields. For this purpose, the plants are fed and watered regularly.

To avoid breakage and bending of the shoots, they are tied to a wire trellis when placing plants in a strip. When planting in bushes, the shoots are tied to stakes that are driven between the bushes. When tying up shoots, they are created best conditions lighting, which promotes smoother ripening of berries.

In the spring, the condition of overwintered shoots is checked in the beds of fruit-bearing raspberries. Due to the prolonged autumn growth, the tops of the shoots do not ripen and, as a rule, freeze slightly in winter. The frozen top is cut off in the spring to a well-formed bud. Even with a good overwintering, it is advisable to remove the top, since the buds on it are poorly developed and produce little yield.

In the first half of summer, especially careful care of the soil is necessary, which must always contain a sufficient amount of moisture to ensure the growth of numerous shoots and the formation of a crop.

When caring for and propagating raspberries, as root shoots form in the tape or bushes, they must be normalized. In summer, when weeding, all weak young shoots are removed, leaving the strongest ones, spaced from each other at a distance of at least 10 cm. 10-12 young shoots are left in the bush, and no more than 15 in the tape per 1 m2.

After harvesting, the fruit-bearing stems are cut to the ground, leaving no stumps at the surface of the soil, and they are burned.

Timely cutting of fruit-bearing stems cleans the bed and creates the most favorable lighting conditions for the growth of young shoots and the laying of next year's crop.

In order to prepare plants for overwintering, at the beginning of August, the top of the shoot is pinched, due to which growth stops and the shoot becomes woodier.

Watch the video on how to care for raspberries throughout the season:

Raspberries ripen gradually and last for about a month. The berries are usually harvested within a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The last raspberry harvest can be done after three to four days.

The berries are harvested as soon as they turn red and are easily separated from the stalk; under no circumstances are they allowed to turn dark crimson. Overripe ones lose their quality. Berries must be picked dry. You can remove them wet only in case of prolonged wet weather.

Berries intended for transportation or storage for several days must be removed from the fruit; otherwise they spoil very quickly. The picked berries are placed carefully in the container. Before work, you need to wash your hands clean. Containers for collecting raspberries should be no more than 2-3 kg. You cannot pour berries from one container to another, as they become very wrinkled and spoil quickly.

There probably won't be anything like this suburban area, where ordinary or remontant raspberries would not grow. It is this berry that is considered the queen of the garden and the first helper for colds, because tea with raspberries is a classic. So, how is it enough to remember our childhood - what did our mothers always bring to us whenever we were sick? Right! Tea with raspberries and goodies.

Raspberries are very healthy berry, it contains many different vitamins and nutrients that will help you fight seasonal diseases easily. However, we need to grow raspberries correctly, because without this there is nowhere. If you forget something, the whole harvest will cry. Therefore, you need to know everything about raspberries in order for them to have a huge harvest. The agricultural technology of raspberries is quite simple, every schoolchild can compare with it, since growing, caring for and pruning raspberries is quite simple. Remember how you helped your mother when you were in elementary school, nothing much has changed since then - except that there are many more varieties and fertilizers. This is where the main difficulty lies, otherwise everything is very simple.

As soon as the snow goes away, remove the old foliage, since it is in it that insects with diseases could live and the bush will simply die. Bush raspberries need support. Growing on a trellis will ensure that the shrub receives more light, it will be easier to care for and grow, and this will speed up the growth of shoots. To make trellises, pillars up to 1.5 m high are dug in at the beginning and end of the row and wire is pulled between them to different heights. This is done so that there is no need to tie raspberries 100 times a season. It will be enough to simply tie it to a higher trellis - and that’s it!

Once every 5 m, pegs are stuck into the ground to prevent the wire from hanging down. Place them if you want to spend proper cultivation raspberries The shoots are placed in a fan shape along the wire and tied up. This will make growing raspberries easier; you will only need to tighten the trellis very little throughout the year. After 2 years, several rows of wire are stretched between the posts - the first at a height of 35 cm, the second at a height of 160 cm.

After this, caring for raspberries will consist of weeding, slightly loosening the soil and mulching with fertilizing. What can you feed it with?

If you used phosphate fertilizer, then you can forget about them for several years, but you will need to feed the raspberries with nitrogen fertilizer every year. Without this, it is impossible to grow raspberries; the bushes will simply dry out. Which ones exist? nitrogen fertilizers we wrote before. And there are truly a countless number of them - there are both very cheap options and very, very expensive ones. So in this matter, focus on the state of your wallet. After this, you need to loosen the soil in the area, since caring for raspberries means that you also need to care for the soil.

Video “Caring for raspberries”

The video shows how to properly grow and care for raspberry bushes.

Autumn care

In autumn you need to create bushes ideal conditions for overwintering, so that later the common raspberries will produce a large harvest. This means that the raspberries should remain in their place, but at the same time be warm and not freeze. So raspberries need to be handled especially carefully in August or September; this period is especially important for them. Remove and burn the mulch that has been sitting all summer, along with the pests that have settled in it, and also thin out the bushes. Dig the soil, but don't overdo it. It would be a good idea to add compost every few years.

Nitrogen fertilizing is not applied in the fall, as it may cause shoots to begin to grow. This means that the raspberries will get frostbite. If you need to fertilize the area, apply phosphorus fertilizer into the furrows 32-33 cm deep. The doses are small: 65 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium salt. This fertilizing will help in the formation of buds, which will make the harvest very abundant.

Video “Caring for raspberry bushes in autumn”

Watering

With average precipitation, common raspberries are not watered. She needs extra water only during periods of drought, only then do raspberries require special care, because the planted shrub can dry out very quickly. It will dry out so much that you will have to cut the raspberries right down to the “stumps”. IN dry time Raspberries need to be moistened very much so that the bush does not dry out.

It is necessary that the soil gets wet by about half a meter. Moisture is very necessary in mid-spring, before flowering and during the growth and ripening of berries. But main watering- pre-winter, because it is in the fall that it lays growth points inside the root, and the more abundant the watering, the more abundant the harvest will be.

Most best way Drip irrigation, as it saves water. Because in the arched method and in sprinkling, much more water is wasted. In addition, the water reaches the roots already warm. Remember that mulching reduces the need for watering of bushes several times. This is an important point in how to properly care for raspberries.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out in the same way as landing, and all because it is necessary proper care for raspberries in the garden. She loves to grow very much, as people like to say - they have a big “growing moment”. In summer, a lot of shoots grow that can be replanted. From the old bush, you can separate the young part of the plant, which still has rather thin stems, with a shovel along with the roots. Make sure that the shoots of the seedling are no more than a quarter of a meter; if they are larger, cut them off! This is truly simple raspberry care!

They can transplant at any time of the year. Well, of course, except for winter. To prevent raspberries from spreading throughout the garden, dig sheets of iron around the perimeter of the raspberry tree. Now you will stop asking yourself the question of where raspberries grow in your garden.

Reproduction

You already understand that care is quite simple. The same is true for its reproduction.

Here we will tell you how to propagate raspberries from cuttings; this growing technology is quite simple. In gloomy weather, cut raspberry cuttings up to 15 cm long and place them in a growth stimulator for several hours. Then plant them in half-liter containers with a peat-sand mixture. When the cuttings begin to grow, they are transplanted with soil into a larger container. When the cuttings get used to the street air, transplant the raspberries to a training bed. Place the raspberries in light shade until they grow. In the fall, plant it where it will grow throughout its life. If you decide to take cuttings for winter, then treat them against fungi, sprinkle them with peat and place them on the balcony. In the spring, replant them and mulch the soil. Now you know how to grow raspberries correctly.

Raspberries can be grown in one place for up to 10 years. This plant requires good lighting. Raspberries do not like strong winds, so this must be taken into account when planting. It also does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil, but there should be enough moisture. The plant will get sick from excess moisture. It is recommended to do drainage before planting raspberries.

The most suitable soil for this crop - loam. Raspberries are planted in different ways: in holes or in grooves, to the bottom of which they first add organic fertilizers. After planting, the plants must be watered and the soil compacted. Having finished planting, it is recommended to mulch the root zone. You can use hay, freshly cut grass or other material as mulch.

Like everyone else, raspberries need feeding. The first is carried out in early spring, in April. At the same time, the soil is loosened. Raspberries very often give root shoots, which is completely unnecessary on the site, so it should be removed in time. Otherwise, the raspberries will fill the entire area, turning into cultivated plant, and into the weed. The second feeding is carried out after flowering. For fertilizing, you can purchase specialized preparations for berry crops.

Raspberries very often produce root shoots; they should be removed in time. Photo: thinkstockphotos.com

For a full harvest, raspberries require good watering and weeding. If there are a lot of berries on the bushes, then it is better to tie up the plants. After the harvest is harvested, the fruiting shoots are cut back to soil level, as they will no longer bear berries.

In October, raspberries are prepared for overwintering. This plant can freeze, so to avoid this, its shoots are usually bent to the ground. First, they need to be tied several pieces together, and then carefully tilted towards the ground so as not to break them and pin them to the soil. Thus, the raspberries will be covered with a layer of snow, and they will not be afraid of frost.

Raspberries need fertilizing. The first one is held in April. Photo: thinkstockphotos.com

Raspberries can be propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush, green or woody offspring. When planting offspring, take the one that is closer to the mother plant. It is dug up along with a lump of earth and transplanted to a permanent place. After planting, it is necessary to prune the young seedling at a height of 30 cm.

Root cuttings selected for propagation are taken during the plant's dormant period. The length of such a cutting should be at least 9 cm. If there are several cuttings, they are tied together and placed in a box with sand in a cool room. At the end of April or beginning of May, the prepared cuttings are planted in the ground in a temporary place, and in the fall - in a permanent place.

When growing raspberries, we must not forget about the pests of this plant. Among them there are such as raspberry beetle, stem raspberry gall midge, raspberry bud moth, raspberry stem gnat and raspberry mite.

For the first experience of growing berry bushes, summer residents choose the most unpretentious of them. Planting raspberries will be an excellent practice for beginners in gardening and will delight experienced owners with its simplicity. personal plots. It reproduces easily in many ways. Raspberries can even be grown from seeds. But the advantages of the bush are not limited to this.

Requirements for growing conditions

Raspberries develop well in an area exposed to the sun, responding to a lack of light with a decrease in yield. Some gardeners grow it in partial shade, but this is only suitable for the southern regions. The shrub does not like drafts, so you need to reliably protect it from strong northern winds. Most often, raspberry plantings can be seen next to fences, as well as near the walls of residential or outbuildings. This arrangement has its advantages. It helps save limited space on the site. From spring to autumn, barriers protect raspberry bushes from drafts, and in winter they trap snow near the plants and between them, preventing the plantings from freezing.

The composition of the soil is not the best important condition for abundant fruiting of the crop. Light loams with certain characteristics are optimal for growing raspberries:

• neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• good moisture permeability;
• rich supply of nutrients.

The peculiarity of the root system of the shrub is that it is located almost at the surface of the soil - at a depth of 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant it on hills and slopes. On them the plant will suffer from lack of moisture. You should not place the raspberry garden in lowlands where water stagnates. The bushes of the crop do not like waterlogged soil. Their close proximity also has a detrimental effect on them. groundwater. The minimum depth of their occurrence in the place where the shrubs are planted is 1.5 m.

Predecessors and site preparation

When answering the question of how to plant raspberries correctly, one cannot ignore its predecessors.

The shrub will be comfortable on the soil vacated after certain crops:

• legumes;
• Luke;
• parsley;
• garlic

It is better to prepare the place for planting raspberries in advance by sowing alkaloid lupine on the site a year before. This will protect her bushes from invasion dangerous pest- Khrushchev. Lupine is poisonous to its larvae.

• potatoes;
• tomatoes;
• pepper;
• eggplants;
• strawberries.

The reason is simple: these crops are vulnerable to the same diseases.

The raspberry tree will bear fruit successfully in one place without causing much trouble for 12 years, then it is better to move it to another area. If this is not done, the yield of the bushes will decrease due to natural depletion of the soil. Pathogenic microorganisms will also accumulate in it. It will be possible to grow the crop in the same place only after some time (4-6 years).

Before planting raspberries, the site is thoroughly prepared. The soil is dug up and enriched with organic and mineral compounds:

• compost (humus, manure);
• superphosphate;
• wood ash.

Landing dates

Garden raspberries easily adapt to new conditions, so you can place plants in your dacha in the spring, following certain rules.

1. In spring, the right time for the procedure comes early, as soon as the soil warms up and relative warmth sets in. Raspberry seedlings on which buds have not yet formed and swelled take root well.
2. In summer (from early June to mid-July) it can be planted on permanent site raspberry bushes that have been previously grown in a greenhouse or at home. They will quickly take root and begin to actively develop, fully strengthened by the onset of cold weather. When purchasing material for summer planting, you need to choose plants with a closed root system. The risk of their death when placed in the ground is minimal. Such bushes suffer less pain and grow faster, because their roots are not damaged during the procedure.
3. IN autumn period Strong, well-ripened raspberry vines are being planted. They will survive the frosty winter painlessly. Place them in the ground as long as leaf fall continues.

Many summer residents believe that it is more comfortable for the plant autumn planting. At this time, the survival of raspberries is not interfered with by intense heat, and constant soil moisture creates the most favorable conditions for its root system. With the arrival of warmer weather, overwintered bushes show rapid growth.

If raspberries are planted in spring time, its result is greatly influenced weather conditions. Drought and heat will not benefit young plants. It is characteristic of the culture early start sap flow. In many regions, by the time the seedlings are placed in the ground, leaves will already appear on them. Even frequent and abundant moistening of the raspberry plant will not facilitate the process of their adaptation. Roots that have not yet taken root will not be able to provide the plant with water, while the leaves will evaporate it, drawing moisture from the shoots and weakening them. Pruning the bush will help here. Only the buds that have not yet begun to grow are left on it.

When deciding for yourself when it is best to plant raspberries, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the variety chosen for cultivation.

Layout

There are 2 methods of planting crops:

• trench (trench);
• hole

Growing raspberries using the bush method in unprotected soil is easier: it makes caring for the plants and soil easier. But with it you need to be prepared for the rapid aging of plantings. If you place the bushes on the site using the strip method, the raspberry tree will renew itself - with numerous root suckers. It also uses the garden area more efficiently.

With the trench method, the area for the future raspberry patch at the dacha is pre-marked using a stretched cord. Then the planting furrows are dug. Their depth should be 35-45 cm, and width – 40-50 cm. They are made parallel to each other. A significant distance of 1.8 m is left between the trenches. Having placed raspberry seedlings in the furrow, it is filled with a fertile substrate based on soil and humus. Complete the procedure by compacting the soil well. This raspberry planting scheme involves placing its bushes at intervals of 0.5-0.7 m.

You can make the trench wider – one meter long. Then, along its perimeter, it is recommended to dig a border of slate sheets, deepening them by 30 cm. It should rise above the soil surface by 3-5 cm. This will facilitate the application of manure and mulching and will protect the area from being overrun by root shoots of the plant, to which Japanese raspberries are especially prone. . It’s easy to make wide row spaces attractive by preventing them from becoming overgrown with weeds. It is enough to spend or green manure.

With the hole method of planting raspberries, holes are dug around the perimeter of the site. They can be arranged in rows or in a checkerboard pattern. The width, depth and diameter of the planting hole are made the same - 30 cm. Fertilizers are poured down - compost or wood ash. The distance between the rows does not change (1.8-2 m), but bushes are placed in them less often - with an interval of 1 m.

Landing Features

All varieties of the crop, including the exotic Japanese raspberry, the planting of which is becoming increasingly popular, prefer nutritious soil. To ensure that the bushes at the dacha grow well for a long time and bear fruit abundantly, the following additives are added to the soil dug from trenches or holes:

• compost;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate.

Should not be included in planting pits or trenches of fertilizer containing nitrogen, otherwise the plants will not take root well.

A little substrate is poured into the holes so that a small mound is formed. If plants with an open root system are used, their lower part is dipped in a mullein solution or in a mash prepared from a nutritious soil mixture. Having placed the raspberry seedling on a mound, fertile soil is poured into the hole. Deepen it root collar it is impossible, otherwise the bud located near it may rot, and the development of the plant will greatly slow down. It is correct if there is 1-2 cm between it and the soil surface. After it shrinks, it will be at soil level.

If the ground at the dacha is too wet, and the area is prone to flooding or is characterized by close groundwater, the shrub is grown on raised and wide (0.7-1.0 m) beds. Do not fill the trench to the top with soil. It is better to leave a small hollow. So, when watering a raspberry tree, less water is used, and natural precipitation is used more rationally: snow accumulates in the trench from the very beginning of winter.

Water the plants abundantly (10 liters of water for 3–4 raspberry bushes), and mulch the area. You can use for this:

• peat;
• humus;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• dry leaves.

Seedlings with well-developed buds require pruning. They are shortened to 30 cm. It is better to install supports for raspberries at the time of planting. It is convenient to grow shrubs on a trellis. It's easy to do. Along the edges of the trenches with planted raspberries, pillars, pipes or thick wooden beams, stretching 2 rows of wire between them (at a height of 1 m and 1.5 m from the ground surface). When the bushes grow, they are tied to a trellis.

Generative reproduction

Growing raspberries from seeds is not difficult, although this method of growing them is rarely practiced. Its main drawback is not even the high labor costs, but the fact that the properties of the mother bush are not transmitted to the seedlings. There is a widespread belief among summer residents that when planting raspberry seeds, you will have to wait for more than one year for the harvest. But that's not true. With the right pre-sowing preparation seeds, the plant will bear its first fruits next year. It begins during the process of collecting planting material.

The juice is removed from fully ripened (preferably overripe) fruits by placing them in a gauze bag and squeezing thoroughly. Then the pulp with seeds needs to be dried a little. To do this, use paper or cloth and spread the berry mass on it. Then it is placed in a well-ventilated place. The sun's rays should not fall on it. When the raspberry seeds are slightly dry, they are mixed with sand and sown in boxes. You can plant them in cold greenhouse. Before the emergence of seedlings, two parameters are carefully monitored: protection of crops from sun rays and constant soil moisture.

Another method of preparing raspberry seeds is also practiced. Pour water into the lightly mashed berry mass, stirring well. High-quality seeds are heavy and will sink to the bottom, while unripened seeds are light and will immediately float to the surface. After draining the water, the procedure is repeated several times. After drying the washed seeds, they are placed in the refrigerator, where they are kept at a temperature of +1 to +5°C until planting, or sown in beds. Friendly germination of raspberry seeds can be expected in moist and loose soil mixed with sand and peat. They are embedded shallowly - only 2-5 mm. When planting in spring, the beds are covered with film.

Professionals recommend stratifying raspberry seeds. This is a simple but lengthy process. After mixing pre-soaked raspberry seeds with wet sand, they are wrapped in nylon fabric and placed in a container with moss. Then the container is placed in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) or in the basement, where the air temperature is +2°C. It is necessary to knead the contents of the packages regularly so that the seeds and sand are mixed. Support and high humidity, periodically spraying the bags and moss.

After keeping the raspberry seeds in such conditions for 3-5 months, they are planted in the ground. They do this together with sand. Sowing is carried out immediately after removing the contents of the bags, without drying them. Stratification significantly increases the germination of raspberry seeds.

Basics of agricultural technology

Proper agricultural technology involves a whole series events. But you shouldn’t be afraid of their abundance. Planting and caring for raspberries is simple and does not take much time. The bush loves. Lack of moisture negatively affects taste qualities its berries and can even destroy plants. But you shouldn’t flood the raspberries either. Plantings in the country are moistened not often (once a week), but generously.

Raspberries do not tolerate weeds well. But constant weeding and loosening the soil under the bushes can injure its roots, and the plant’s productivity will decrease. Mulching will help in the fight to keep plantings clean. For it, any organic matter is used (humus, dry leaves, sawdust, crushed bark), pouring it onto the beds with raspberries in a thick (8-10 cm) layer. This mulch will significantly help the plant:

• protects against weeds;
• retains moisture in the soil;
• will fertilize it (after decomposition).

Raspberries will produce a good harvest if you feed them regularly. Its bushes can do without fertilizer only in the first year after planting in soil rich in organic matter. Raspberries are fed three times a season. In early spring, fertilizers containing a lot of nitrogen are applied - ammonium nitrate, infusion of mullein or bird droppings. The second feeding is carried out when the bush begins to bear fruit. Any complex composition or nitroammophoska is suitable for it. The raspberry tree is fertilized for the third time in September. This fertilizing will help the plants endure the winter painlessly and establish flower buds. Potassium salt, superphosphate and wood ash are used for it.

Bush formation and garter

In order for the cultivation of raspberries to consistently produce high yields, its bushes need regular pruning. It shortens fruitful shoots and gets rid of thickening stems and excess basal shoots. Of the numerous young branches in the spring, 5-6 of the strongest ones are left on the bush (according to the number of fruitful shoots that they will later replace). The rest are removed at the base using a shovel or flat cutter.

When the shoots grow and begin to ripen for the winter, another pruning is carried out. Raspberry branches are shortened by ¼, since greatest harvest gives them the middle. overwintered shoots on the plant are carried out to a strong bud (about 10 cm). Dried branches are removed completely. In the fall, the bush is rid of two-year-old shoots that have already produced a harvest by cutting them out at the root.

Highly decorative Japanese and other varieties of raspberries are winter-hardy. But in severe frosts, plant shoots can still suffer. To prevent this from happening, late autumn raspberry bushes are bent, tilting them towards each other and tying them. The layer of snow accumulated on them will protect the buds from freezing.

Long raspberry shoots can break under the weight of the fruit. To avoid this, and also to make caring for the plantings easier, tying them to a trellis will help. They escort her out early spring until the raspberry buds wake up. If they are already swollen, they can be easily damaged during the garter process. It is more convenient to grow raspberries on a two-sheet trellis. It looks like it is stretched into 2 rows of wire parallel to each other, but located in the same plane. Fruitful shoots of the bush are attached on different sides, and young shoots develop in the center.


Raspberries are a bright representative of those rare crops that are almost impossible to destroy. Therefore, many summer residents begin their acquaintance with berry bushes exactly from her. It is undemanding, hardy, and highly productive. The raspberry plant does not require much attention, but it cannot be left completely without care, otherwise the plantings will turn into impenetrable thorny thickets and the crop will be shredded.

Certain varieties of culture are actively used in landscape design. Japanese raspberry bushes look spectacular from spring to summer, being covered first with flowers and then with large ripening fruits. They are especially good as part of hedges. Nature has endowed raspberries with a variety of useful properties. It is not surprising that you can find shrubs in almost every dacha.