Winter garlic is very popular among all housewives. It keeps well in winter period. Anyone who has already grown winter garlic, will confirm it high yield. The winter type of vegetable is characterized by its large size.
The heads of garlic themselves are quite large. Accordingly, the cloves are also quite large. This is a big plus when cooking. When the teeth are large, you need fewer of them, and cleaning such teeth is much easier and faster.
The size of the teeth is the main advantage of winter garlic over spring garlic. But large cloves will become disadvantages when planting garlic. In its head there will be a maximum of 12 teeth, and in the head of the spring one you can count several dozen teeth. Consequently, housewives will have to spend a significant part harvested plant again in the ground. This is very unprofitable.
But there is a fairly simple way out of this seemingly hopeless situation. The answer is provided by nature itself. Winter garlic has one peculiarity: as the garlic plant grows, it produces arrows. The blossoming arrows resemble a flower. But it consists of small cloves of garlic.
Agronomists call these cloves air bulbs. There can be close to hundreds of such bulbs on one stem. They are protected by a cover that helps keep them together and protects them from damage. These grains become a reserve for future landing garlic So, to plant in the ground and then get 200 heads of garlic, it will be enough to leave three garlic shoots.
The use of bulbs as planting material will not only preserve the grown crop, but will improve and improve the health of the seed fund. More likely, important advantage Bulbs will still be healthier than saving material for planting.
Another advantage of bulbs will be the acceleration and simplification of the process of planting them in the ground. Winter or wild garlic cloves should be planted one at a time. This kind of work is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. Bulbs are not planted in the ground, but are sown like seeds of other vegetables. Garlic diseases are transferred from the soil in which it grows to the vegetable. And then it is transferred to a new fetus that grows from this tooth. Then it doesn't matter that the garlic was planted in healthy soil.
The pathogens entered the plant from the previous time. The absence of contact between the bulbs and the ground allows them to be protected from infection and makes it impossible to transmit the disease to a new garlic crop.
This method of propagating garlic is effective, but not ideal. The negative aspects of it can be considered a protracted result and not everyone gets the desired result. Bulbs produce a normal-sized harvest only in the second year.
Accordingly, there will be no harvest from the area sown with garlic bulbs in the first year. Some owners cannot get the desired result using glass garlic bulbs for propagation.
The reasons for the failures that befell the experiment are different: someone sowed the bulbs incorrectly, not knowing exactly how to do it, for others they froze or completely dried out, and those who were able to grow garlic complain about small size heads As a result, propagation by bulbs has its negative sides.
Features during the growing process
The process of growing garlic from bulbs is not at all complicated, but it has its own characteristics, knowledge of which will ensure the result.
- Rule one- we grow high-quality bulbs. To do this, the arrows are left on several plants grown from the largest cloves. Be sure to break off the remaining arrows, which helps increase the size of the garlic heads. The left arrows are first rolled into a spiral.
They will straighten out on their own, and full straightening will be a signal that it is time to harvest. By harvest we mean both bulbs and heads of garlic. During harvesting, the integrity of the plant is maintained. The stems are tied into a bundle and hung in the attic to dry for 3-4 weeks. Plastic substances from the stems and leaves flow to the bulb and bulbs, increasing their weight. After the stem has dried, the inflorescences with bulbs can be separated, making sure that the sheath is not damaged. - Rule two - correct landing bulbochek. Bulbs can be planted in both spring and autumn. If you decide to plant bulbs in the spring, the beds should be prepared in the fall. Landing is underway in early spring, and digging up the beds in mid-April will be quite difficult. Negative sides inherent in both options for planting garlic in the ground.
At autumn landing bulbs, there is a high chance that some of the grains will freeze out, while the other part may end up on the surface. Such grains bulge with frost. In the spring, they must be deepened back into the ground. For spring sowing, a frequent problem will be the drying out of some of the bulbs. In this case, it is important how the bulbs were stored in winter. If they were stored in a warm place, they should be cooled.
Before sowing, they are disassembled into grains and kept for a month and a half at a temperature of no more than 5 degrees Celsius. A refrigerator is quite suitable for this. In this way, the mechanism of the biological clock embedded in the bulb by nature is turned on. They begin to feel the changes of time. Otherwise, the plants will turn green and continue to grow until late autumn. The growth process is often accompanied by glass transition. Such plants will bear fruit in the form of small, not yet fully ripened heads with fine teeth. There will be no benefit from such a harvest: it cannot be used either as a planting product or for sale. This does not happen with chilled bulbs. They stop growing in early August and the harvest consists of one round head up to 3 cm in diameter from each plant. This type of head is called a single-tooth head. - Rule three- Harvest on time. Dig up garlic when the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. This happens around mid-August. Dry the garlic for 2-3 days using sun rays, protecting from dew. The garlic is then tied into bunches and dried in the attic. Single cloves will be excellent planting material for the fall and will produce a harvest of large heads of garlic.
Video: Growing garlic from bulbs
Gardeners call aerial garlic bulbs bulbs. They do not grow on any type of garlic. When planting garlic in autumn period Bulbs grow at the end of next summer.
If the bulblets are used for propagation, then when sowing them in the spring, already in August of this year we will get small one-toothed heads, or as it is also called - sets. Only next year can they be used to grow a plant with a large air cap and inflorescence. Those. The harvest of bulblets will have to wait two years.
Why use bulbs as planting material?
Firstly, it saves planting material. Indeed, when propagating winter garlic, which shoots with cloves, approximately a seventh of the entire harvest is consumed annually. Reproduction by such bulbs similar costs does not require. The remarkable thing is that each inflorescence can contain 20-60 bulblets.
Secondly, with the help of aerial bulbs you can easily propagate new varieties. Garlic grown from bulbs is more viable and less susceptible to all sorts of diseases and pests.
The first method: the grown seedlings are not removed, but left to overwinter in place. Second: spring, the bulblets are sown in a heap. At the end of summer, the seedlings are dug up and planted in the fall to form larger bulbs.
How to prepare seed material?
Bulbs are produced from the most productive plants. They are harvested when the film covering the bulbs in the inflorescence begins to crack on individual plants. If you tighten it, the bulbs will simply fall off. Cut inflorescences with an arrow are tied into a sheaf and hung in a room with good ventilation for drying. During this time, our bulblets ripen.
How to store garlic bulbs?
The following regime is suitable: until the beginning of the second half of February, we store the bulblets in a dry room at a uniform temperature of +18-20 °C, and from the second half of February until sowing - at 0 °C. To do this, the bulbs are first transferred to a fabric bag and then buried in the snow.
Before planting, dry the inflorescences in warm room, and then winnow in the wind. Only the largest bulbs are left, which are capable of producing developed and large garlic cloves. Bulb presentation is formed only in the third year of life.
Preparing the soil for bulbs
Bulbs are sown very early, as soon as the soil is ready. This is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. The soil for garlic bulbs has been prepared since autumn. The selected place for the garden bed is fertilized with humus 5 kg per 1 m2. Superphosphate and potassium chloride are also added in a ratio of 30:20 grams.
Lime at the rate of 300 grams per 1 m2 will help deoxidize the soil. Fertilizers are evenly distributed on the bed, the soil is dug up onto the bayonet of a shovel. The earth should lie down, as it is in clumps.
In the spring, we level the soil with a rake. Add garden fertilizer mixture (100 grams/m2).
Sowing bulbs
Sowing of bulbs occurs according to a ribbon pattern. A ribbon is a group of parallel rows of plants. The width of the tape reaches 90 cm. The tape consists of 7 rows with intervals of 15 centimeters. The tapes should be spaced at least 30-40 cm apart from each other.
In the spring, we plant the bulbs to a depth of 3-4 centimeters, and in the fall - to a depth of 4-5 centimeters. Use a hoe to make furrows of the required depth. Place the bulbs on the bottom at a given distance. Sprinkle the furrows with damp soil, compact the soil with a board and sprinkle with peat.
Sowing care
After emergence, loosen the soil to a depth of 2-4 cm, especially after rains. In dry weather we water. In hot weather, water once every 10 days. We feed with mullein. Top dressing is applied at the rate of 2 liters of solution per 1 m2. After feeding, wash with water from a watering can.
Harvesting garlic sets
The sets ripen in August, when all the tops of the garlic lie down. It's time to clean up. We dig up the seedlings with a shovel. In dry and warm weather, lay out the seedlings directly on the soil; in damp weather, bring it into a ventilated room and stir it periodically. When the sets are dry, we clean the bulbs from any remaining leaves.
Kira Stoletova
Many summer residents grow such a well-known seasoning as garlic in their gardens. At the same time, you can plant it with seeds and cloves. Growing garlic from bulbs, or seeds, is not known to everyone. This is one of the main ways to obtain a large garlic crop, grown for the purpose of propagating the garlic variety.
Features of the method
Aerial bulbs with seeds form on garlic shoots during the period of its development and growth. Collected at the very top of the plant into inflorescences, they are covered with a film on top, and appearance and similar in size to small cloves.
Gardeners are often forced to turn to seed cultivation by the need to propagate a variety when the crop is damaged by fungal diseases and pests. All this reduces productivity, and often leads to its complete death. Garlic bulbs that are not damaged by pests become the only source of restoration of the lost variety. The seeds are formed at the top of the arrow and hidden in a reliable protective shell, so they always remain healthy, serving as high-quality planting material.
One mature garlic head produces up to 10 healthy cloves, and 1 bulb produces a hundred, and sometimes even more, garlic seeds ready for planting.
Advantages
Among the main advantages seed growing:
- planting healthy planting material showing good results germination,
- the opportunity to propagate a lost variety,
- ease of boarding soil soil.
The convenience of planting a garlic crop with seeds lies in the ability to plant the bulbs in prepared soil, in contrast to planting with cloves, in which the seed, previously separated from the whole head and sorted by quality, will have to be planted according to the rules at the required depth, each separately.
Flaws
The seed growing method also has its disadvantages.
- First of all, this is due to the fact that part seed material during frosts it may disappear without a trace and not rise. Some gardeners don't mind the potential loss seed material, since initially it is in inflorescences a large number of, and correctly followed basic planting technologies allow you to avoid this.
- Secondly, get decent harvest garlic cultivation by seed cultivation is possible only after 2 years, since in the first gardening season only one clove (onion) will sprout from garlic seeds, which will have to be planted again the next year. But already in the second year, from such a healthy onion it is possible to grow a full-fledged garlic head.
Seed selection
Getting a good garlic harvest from seeds depends on how much attention was paid to the quality of the planting material when collecting it. For the formation of aerial bulbs, only strong garlic shoots are left, which begin to appear and grow in the second half of June. The remaining shoots are broken off to allow the garlic heads to grow and develop. In terms of the number of garlic shoots, you should leave as many as you need to collect to obtain the seed, based on the calculation that about 70-80 bulbs are formed on 1 shoot.
Collecting seeds
Grown bulbs are cut off closer to the second half of July; sometimes for spring garlic this period occurs in early August. In any case, an indicator that the tops of the seeds can be cut off is their bursting protective capsule and the seeds that are outside.
In some cases protective film does not burst, but this does not mean that the seeds in it are not ripe. The color of the foliage, which turns yellow, helps you understand that it is time to cut the seeds.
Storage
The collected bulbs for subsequent cultivation of garlic crops from them are dried in a shady place and then stored until spring, until planting. You can save seed material at home for 2 years if room temperature. It would be correct if they are stored in paper packaging or stored in a cardboard box until spring.
Pre-landing preparation
Garlic seeds are sorted and then placed in a water infusion made with wood ash. Those bulbs that remain on the surface of the water are selected for rejection.
Before boarding experienced gardeners kept warm planting material 30-40 days before planting, place them in the refrigerator, after removing the film from them. This will shorten the development time of garlic and prevent glass formation of the seeds. Growing garlic from uncooled bulbs often results in underripe heads and small cloves. Planted cooled seeds grow until the beginning of August and form into 1 garlic head - one clove.
Autumn and spring planting with bulbs
Planting for winter and sowing in spring is similar in technology to the methods used when sowing ordinary garlic cloves.
Sowing for the winter
Planting garlic seeds for the winter is considered the most popular among gardeners; it begins before mid-October and can last until the first half of November. It all depends on climatic conditions.
You can determine when you can plant garlic bulbs by temperature conditions. The thermometer reading should not fall below 5’.
For seed sowing of garlic using a multi-line ribbon pattern, small grooves are made in the beds, no more than 5 cm deep, at a distance of up to 45 cm between the rows. After sowing the planting material, the seeds are covered with a layer of soil. Some gardeners prefer to mulch the garden bed.
For cold climate regions, growing garlic bulbs and planting in the fall is not recommended.
look after winter planting follows the usual method when harvesting when the tips of the leaves turn yellow. Dried cloves are planted a second time in the fall at the time for planting winter crops.
Sowing in spring
Seed planting of garlic in the spring is practically no different from how winter garlic is planted, with the exception of some features:
- Unlike winter, spring garlic is planted at the very beginning of March, and at the same time, many summer residents are faced with soil that is still hard and not warmed by the sun,
- When sprouting, garlic crops require proper care with fertilizing, watering, and pest and fungal disease control.
Planting garlic in the fall, planting seeds for rejuvenation
Expert advice.
Obtaining winter garlic bulbs from bulbs.
Belongs to the oldest vegetable and medicinal plants which man began to use to his advantage. At first it was collected in nature along with other edible wild plants, and then they began to be specially grown near homes in gardens.
Due to its specific properties and potent phytoncides, garlic is currently used as widely as any other plant. It is eaten in fresh, it is used in cooking, for preparing food for future use, in pickles and marinades, in the vegetable canning and meat processing industries. Prepared from fresh garlic garlic oil and dry garlic powder.
This culture is a natural antibiotic that has the ability to stimulate cellular growth and vital activity, one of the most popular means of preventing colds. It has a restorative effect on all body systems, improves health and prevents diseases, and also dissolves cholesterol in the blood and stimulates the lymphatic system to remove toxins. “Opens” blood vessels and reduces blood pressure in people suffering from hypertension. Garlic preparations are widely used clinically for the prevention and treatment of cholesterol metabolism disorders, atherosclerosis and its complications, and for the prevention of tumors. Its bulbs serve as raw materials in the pharmaceutical industry for the manufacture of drugs; Garlic is used in folk and scientific medicine, veterinary medicine, in the fight against pests and plant diseases and to protect agricultural products from spoilage.
Garlic - annual plant. In the process of long evolution, garlic cultivated plant has lost the ability to reproduce through seeds and reproduces only vegetatively. Cultivated forms of garlic are divided into three groups: winter shooters, winter non-shooters and spring, usually non-shooters. The last two forms reproduce only by teeth, and in the arrowing forms, at the beginning of summer, a flowering shoot, or arrow, emerges from the center of the bulb, on which an inflorescence is formed. It simultaneously develops sterile flowers and bulbs(up to 500 pieces) - formations completely identical to onion cloves.
One of the negative aspects when growinggarlic and othersvegetatively propagated crops and, in particular, their reproduction. With such management of culture, its degeneration often occurs. Degeneration is the result of the accumulation of the virus in the bulbs and a gradual increase in its concentration. This process has different speed currents - in unfavorable conditions it proceeds faster - one or two generations. Viruses, penetrating into plants, change the typical of this variety metabolism and cause a decrease in yield and deterioration in the quality of bulbs.
There is a way to rid plants of diseases - this is growing winter garlic from bulbs. Plants obtained from bulbs have greater vitality and productivity. They seem to be rejuvenated.
There are three ways to grow garlic from bulbs:
1) growing bulbs with transplanting sets (small single-toothed bulbs, reminiscent of onion sets);
2) growing bulbs without transplanting sets;
3) growing bulbs from bulbs in one year.
Harvesting of bulblets for seeds begins when 5-8% of plants experience cracking of the inflorescence cover. Arrow pruning is done 25-30 cm below the inflorescence. Bulbs can be sown in autumn and spring, depending on the climatic conditions of the year of their formation. Bulbs take longer to ripen than bulbs. Their ripening period is 30-40 days. Therefore, in Siberian conditions, it is best to sow bulbs in the spring. They are threshed immediately before sowing.
Before sowing, the bulbs are calibrated. The best bulbs for sowing are 5-7 mm in diameter. Small bulbs have a deep dormant period, and therefore they can sprout in the second year after sowing. Soil preparation is the same as for sowing with cloves. The planting depth is 3-4 cm, and if you still decide to blow it in the fall - 4-5 cm. Autumn planting carried out at the end of September - beginning of October and then the plantings are mulched with compost or peat with a layer of 2-3 cm, snow retention is carried out, and in the spring they are sure to be fed with nitrogen.
2. Growing bulbs from bulbs without transplanting sets. Sowing time is the end of April. The seeding rate is 0.3-0.4 kg/m2. The seed crop overwinters well, preservation is up to 88%. It bolts by 70-80%, produces bulbs weighing 20 g. Harvesting of bulbs is August next year.
3. Growing bulbs from bulbs in one year. The sowing time for bulbs is mid-summer. The seeding rate is 0.18-0.3 kg/m2. Pre-sowing and post-sowing watering is required. Plants grow well by autumn and overwinter with leaves. Bulb harvesting - August next year. Planting care is as usual as when planting with teeth.
S. Zharkova
Summer residents are often interested in how to grow garlic from bulbs, and what is different about this particular garlic planting material. Planting garlic bulbs allows you to rejuvenate the variety, grow a new crop, without spending money on the seed fund, and without using your own garlic grown for food for planting.
Garlic bulbs (or aerial bulbs) are not actual seeds; they are full-fledged garlic bulbs grown on the shoots of a winter vegetable. Usually only the emerging arrows are broken off so that they do not take strength from the developing heads, but from 70 to 80 bulbs can ripen on each arrow. If you leave a few things to grow and develop further, then the heads of these plants will form smaller, but besides them, the gardener will receive excellent material for sowing.
Usually we plant garlic cloves grown on our own plot, and every year our garlic becomes smaller and more often susceptible to diseases, it more often suffers from fungal diseases, and often penetrates through the bottom of the bulb stem nematode. Renewing the seed fund requires investing money, and by planting bulbs, you can not only save money, but significantly improve the quality of the product. They are absolutely clean, devoid of any infections, the nematode also does not reach them, if you use them as seed material, then the variety is rejuvenated. Thus, growing garlic from bulbs improves and makes the material for sowing healthier.
By sowing the bulbs, only after two years can you get full-fledged heads of garlic consisting of cloves. But already in the first year, single-toothed teeth grow, which, if necessary, can be used for food; they are one large, juicy tooth, and it’s even easier to clean.
How to grow bulbs
Only winter garlic shoots, dividing the head, we often see a small rod in its very middle - this is the remnant of the shoot, which began to grow, but was not allowed to grow. Approximately from mid-June, arrows appear; they are distinguished from leaves, and they are immediately broken off so as not to weaken the plant and not to divert strength from the forming bulb. If we want to grow bulblets, then we need to leave a few of the strongest arrows. The quantity can be approximately calculated, knowing that each inflorescence will give more than 70 aerial bulbs. It is advisable to collect them with a reserve, since not all of them will necessarily grow later.
In a month (or a little more) the leaves will begin to dry out, you need to carefully monitor the inflorescences. When the film begins to crack, the arrows are cut off, leaving long “tails”. They need to be dried, do this away from the sun's rays. You can put them in a thin gauze bag and hang them or lay them out on a flat surface, place them in the shade under a canopy or in a ventilated area. If the bulbs are well dried, they can be stored for up to two years in a dark, dry room with a temperature not exceeding +20 degrees.
They are of interest only as seed material, but differ from real seeds in their large size and fleshiness. Therefore, they need to be dried very well if you plan to plant them in the spring or every other year.
Methods of planting bulbs
You can plant (more precisely, sow) bulbs before winter, then next summer single-toothed ones will grow. Or you can plant them in the spring at the same time as spring garlic.
In the fall, they are sown about a month before the onset of frost, most often this happens in mid-October, so that they take root well before the cold weather, but do not begin to grow. They are planted at a depth of 4 cm in 2 - 3 pieces, leaving a distance of 6 - 8 cm between them, and about 15 cm between the rows. With the approach of winter, the bed is mulched with hay, grass, leaves, if expected Cold winter, can be covered with spruce branches. Winter landing is considered risky because the planted bulbs can freeze in the absence of snow or simply be squeezed upward by the freezing ground. If this does not happen (and some of them will overwinter even in the most extreme conditions), then in the spring after the snow melts, friendly shoots will appear.
Many people think spring sowing bulbs more effective, especially in regions with cold winter. Until spring, dried aerial bulbs are stored in a dry dark room with a moderate temperature, and a month and a half before sowing they are taken out to prepare. The seed must undergo stratification; for this it is placed in the refrigerator for several weeks. This will allow you to grow excellent single clove heads; if you do not cool them before planting, the garlic will grow to late autumn, its leaves will not dry out, and the head will begin to glass. After stratification, plant growth stops in August, the leaves dry out, single-toothed leaves are perfectly stored until planting next spring, no glass transition process threatens them.
Most gardeners consider stratification the only preparation for sowing. Some people soak the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate before sowing, copper sulfate, trying to prevent possible diseases.
Most likely, this is unnecessary reinsurance, since the bulbs themselves are uniquely pure seed material; they are not infected with anything.
Preparing the bed
Bulbs are sown on the prepared bed so that they are at a depth of 3–4 cm, 3–5 cm are left between them, the wet soil is compacted and mulched. Then they are grown in the same way as spring garlic. Harvest when the leaves droop to the ground. If you delay harvesting, the leaves will dry out and it will be difficult to find the harvest. Garlic is picked from the ground, dried, and then planted like regular winter garlic. Next year he will please with excellent large heads garlic
You can speed up the process of growing garlic from bulbs. To do this, they are slightly dried after harvesting so that they can be easily disassembled by hand, and immediately planted in the ground. The one-toothed ones will ripen by October, that is, by the time it is time to plant for the winter. Therefore, it is better not to touch them at all, and next spring they will grow like ordinary winter garlic, only they will produce a much better harvest.
Secrets of growing garlic culture
Garlic loves light, nutritious soil; it is advisable to fertilize the bed well before planting. In autumn, humus or compost, superphosphate and potash fertilizers, you can add urea in the spring.
After planting, it would be a good idea to mulch the bed; this will help delay the drying process of the soil and prevent weeds from growing.
Garlic responds well to feeding with infusion of chicken manure during the summer, but the infusion needs to be diluted more, reducing its concentration. For garlic, it is very important to follow the rules of crop rotation. It can be grown in one place after 3 to 4 years. Under no circumstances should it be planted after onions, carrots, or cucumbers. It is best to plant garlic with planting bulbs after tomatoes, legumes, cauliflower or white cabbage.
Video “Propagation of garlic by bulblets”
From this video you will learn about the propagation of garlic by bulbs and the preparation of seed for autumn planting.
