Peas belong to the legume family. He came to us in Russia from South-East Asia. Even more specifically: it is believed that the birthplace of peas is North-West India. Today peas are grown in more than 60 countries around the world, in fields and summer cottages. There is no point in mentioning the benefits of green peas once again, this is already obvious. But there is one fun fact: It is beneficial to eat at least 3 kg of peas per year. Do you fit into this figure?
Helpful neighborhood
We grow peas in both summer cottages, without occupying a separate bed for this, but interspersing them with other crops. There is an unoccupied section of the ridge left - we plant peas. It turns out that this is mega-useful. Peas saturate the soil with nitrogen, which has a beneficial effect on neighboring plants. In addition, pea roots are able to go far into the soil, extracting nutrients from its lower layers. Some of the nutrients are transferred to neighboring crops. Thus, thanks to peas, plants receive extra food. That is why peas are considered an excellent inter-row crop.
The best neighbors for peas in the garden
Since we touched on the topic of the benefits of peas for vegetables growing in the neighborhood, let’s list the best neighbors for peas in the garden: where is it better to plant peas, next to which crops. Source of information: book “Preparing the site for spring” (
Next to what you can plant peas:
- with cucumbers,
- carrots,
- potatoes,
- radish,
- corn,
- beans,
- spicy herbs.
It is believed that these cultures go well with each other.
Bad neighbors for peas:
- garlic,
- clover,
- alfalfa.
It is believed that these cultures do not combine with each other.
Predecessors of peas
Peas react sensitively to crops that grew in the garden before them. It is not recommended to plant peas in the same place where they grew last summer. It will be possible to re-sow peas in this area after 4 years.
Good predecessors of peas in the garden:
- cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes.
Bad predecessors of peas in the garden:
- legumes (beans and beans).
It is believed that peas can be grown after any vegetable crops, with the exception of “relatives” from the legume family. If a summer resident manages to harvest a pea crop in the first half of summer, then this area can be sown with radishes.
Soil for peas
Despite the fact that peas themselves are capable of enriching the soil with nutrients, they themselves require certain conditions for growth. Let's list them (source: book “Peas, beans and beans”, author Fatyanov V.I.). Regarding the soil:
- Peas love soils that are neutral in acidity. To improve the composition of the soil for peas, add ash (1 cup per 1 square meter).
- The best for peas are sunny areas with an acidity of 6-7.
- Peas grow well on medium sandy and light loamy soils.
- Soil for peas they begin to prepare it in the fall: they dig it deeply and fertilize it, adding half a bucket of humus or compost, 35 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2.
- In the spring, before planting, deep loosening is carried out again.
- In a place where peas have not been grown before, nitragin is added,
- Since the pea itself is good fertilizer, then after harvesting it is recommended to embed the stems and leaves of peas in tree trunk circles under fruit trees or put it in compost.
Doesn't like peas:
- Weeds. It grows poorly in weedy and poor areas, so the soil should be cleared of weeds before planting and the bed should be kept clean throughout the growing season.
- Overmoistened heavy clay soils. Due to dampness, pea leaves turn yellow and the roots rot. The risk of fungal infection also increases.
Favorable conditions:
- Long daylight hours.
- Seeds germinate already at temperatures from +2 to +6 degrees, but the optimal mode is considered to be from +18 to +20 degrees.
- The culture is cold-resistant, and even young seedlings can easily tolerate frosts down to -6 degrees.
Peas ripen depending on the variety:
- late-ripening varieties 100-125 days,
- mid-season 85-100 days,
- early ripening\early ripening 65-85 days,
- super early ripening varieties 40-65 days.
With the onset of spring, an active time begins for all gardeners and gardeners. They begin to spend more and more time on their plots, trying to grow as many different crops as possible, sometimes in a relatively small area. Strawberries (garden strawberries), with their juicy and delicious fruits As a rule, almost everything is grown. But not everyone knows what to plant next to strawberries so as not to harm them and grow a rich harvest of these wonderful berries.
In fact, strawberries are enough unpretentious plant and peacefully coexists with many vegetables, fruit plants and flowers. However, some crops can have a rather negative impact on its growth and reproduction. We will tell you in detail how to choose the right neighbors for your strawberries.
The importance of proper crop rotation
First, let's talk a little about which plants are good predecessors for strawberries and which are not. Crop rotation is the most important agrotechnical measure, with its help the soil replenishes its natural reserves. Most crops are not planted in the same place each year because they take from the ground different composition nutrients. Another reason for the need for crop rotation is that different plants respond differently to weeds, diseases and insect pests. Strawberries have some pests, but cucumbers, for example, have completely different ones.
This rule does not apply only to potatoes, tomatoes and legumes - they are able to successfully bear fruit for many years in one place without depleting the soil. Strawberries usually give good harvest 3-4 years, and then it needs to be transplanted to another area. Therefore, you should know which crops will be good predecessors for garden strawberries, and which ones are better to plant after them.
What to plant after strawberries
Each plant has its own requirements for soil, fertilizers, etc. Strawberry loves organic fertilizers, loose and well-fertilized soil, which should contain sufficient amounts of potassium, nitrogen and trace elements. This plant has deep root system Therefore, observing the principle of alternation, it is better to plant crops with shorter roots in front of it. Also important point crop rotation is that after a disease suffered by a previous plant, a crop showing sufficient resistance to it should be grown in this place next year.
When deciding what to plant after strawberries, experienced gardeners usually opt for root crops or legumes Oh.
You can safely plant:
- cucumbers;
- radishes and turnips;
- onion and garlic;
- , beans, lentils.
Old strawberry bushes must be dug up and burned to destroy pests and pathogens. Then carefully remove all weeds and dig the soil deeply.
- rosacea raspberry;
- cloudberries;
- rose hip.
These plants have many diseases and pests in common with garden strawberries. They also have almost the same requirements for soil composition.
The best predecessors of strawberries
The most the best crops, which grew in the garden bed before planting strawberries on it, are considered:
- radish;
- parsley;
- spinach;
- garlic;
- turnips and radishes;
- legumes;
- carrots and beets;
- corn.
Bulbous flowers will also be useful predecessors:
- hyacinths;
- tulips;
- daffodils, etc.
If the area of the plot allows, agronomists recommend growing strawberries after black fallow or rehabilitating the soil with the help of green manure plants:
- wiki;
- alfalfa;
- buckwheat:
- clover;
- grain crops, etc.
Among other green manures, alkaloid lupine is considered the most suitable for strawberries. It produces substances that are poisonous to wireworms, but is absolutely harmless to berries, without affecting their taste or edibility in any way.
After digging, the plants will remain in the soil. They will improve its structure, enrich it with nitrogen and have a positive effect on weed suppression. It is strictly not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.
Rules for planting strawberries
Combined planting allows you to economically and rationally manage the space of your garden, especially if it is small. In addition, beneficial neighbors have a beneficial effect on each other, improving the condition, taste and nutritional value of the fruit. Another advantage of such plantings is that the plants protect each other from diseases and pests.
There are four rules for planting plants together that it is advisable for every gardener to know and follow.
- Rule 1. Crops that need the same things should not be planted next to each other. useful substances. They will try to take them from each other, and as a result, both plants will not develop well and bear fruit.
- Rule 2. The proximity of plants that have different watering requirements is also undesirable. It turns out that one crop will not have enough water, and the second may suffer due to excessive watering.
- Rule 3. Plants should not shade each other. This can only be done if one of the crops requires shade or diffuse lighting.
- Rule 4. If plants that have common diseases and pests are planted in the same bed or nearby, you can destroy two crops at once. Such a landing is strictly not recommended.
In the case of growing in greenhouses, it is important that the humidity, light and air temperature are suitable for each of the plants.
As for strawberries, they require soft, loose soil rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It also needs plenty of watering and sufficient, but not too bright, lighting. Garden strawberries can be affected by late blight, so plants that carry this fungus should not be planted next to them. Of the pests, the most dangerous for berries are and.
Mulching strawberry beds Ok coniferous (spruce or pine) needles have a positive effect on their taste.
To get a good, abundant harvest, you need to select neighbors for strawberries, following the above recommendations and rules of crop rotation.
Neighborhood with root vegetables
The best neighbor for garden strawberries among root crops is root parsley. Planted between berry bushes, it will repel snails and slugs. Also good combination– strawberries and carrots, just don’t mix them with parsley, you need to choose one thing. But both carrots and parsley go well with garlic or onions.
You can also plant next to strawberries:
- beets;
- radish.
It is better to choose varieties for planting whose fruiting time coincides with that of strawberries. Radishes can be planted directly between the rows; for this, leave a distance of 50-70 cm between the rows. And it is better to place radishes or beets in adjacent beds, but not by combining them with each other, but by choosing one of the crops.
Combination of strawberries with onions and herbs
Among bulbous plants Strawberries get along well with garlic and onions. Just don’t plant them next to each other, since onions and garlic have common diseases and pests. In terms of usefulness, garlic is especially worth noting. It repels the fungus that causes late blight, and the berry is very susceptible to this disease, especially some varieties. The already mentioned root parsley works well with garlic.
Strawberries and onions also go well together. If you also plant carrots nearby, these crops will repel pests from each other, and at the same time protect strawberry beds. Onions as a neighbor also contributes rapid growth berries and strawberry propagation, eliminates the problem of rotting bushes.
Among green crops, the berry goes well with plants such as:
- sorrel;
- spinach;
- borage;
- different kinds salads
The majority of green crops are unpretentious and do not deplete the soil. They do not share any common pests with strawberries. And also when correct scheme plantings can create some darkness - in the southern regions, where there is active sun, this will be very useful. According to reviews experienced gardeners, greenery accelerates the growth of strawberry whiskers, which is important when vegetative propagation. In addition, green crops do not require special care, A spices(coriander, basil, thyme, anise, tarragon, etc.) repel many pests.
Legumes and strawberries
Plants of the legume family occupy one of the leading positions in the list of neighbors useful for garden strawberries. These are peas various varieties beans and lentils and other crops. Thanks to their root system, they “loose” the soil and supply it with nitrogen, which is beneficial for the berries. The beds with legumes can be positioned so that the strawberries are slightly shaded and receive diffused rather than direct lighting.
However, legumes, by producing nitrogen, can make the soil too acidic. To avoid this, you can use fertilizers containing alkali. And you will have to do more careful weeding, because many weeds also grow very willingly next to legumes.
Strawberries and flower crops
In addition to vegetables and herbs, strawberries go well with flowers, especially tulips and irises. According to experienced gardeners, they are able to increase the yield of garden strawberries several times, well promoting their growth. IN to the greatest extent this applies to varieties remontant strawberries. In addition, irises and tulips help heat-loving plant It is easier to endure cold winter periods.
In addition to them, you can plant other flowering plants next to the strawberry bed (or directly on it):
- peonies;
- fern;
- jasmine;
- marigolds, etc.
These flower crops also have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden strawberries.
Flowers such as are worthy of special attention. With their properties they repel many pests:
- nematode;
- weevil;
- mole cricket;
- onion fly, etc.
In addition, these flowers protect against fusarium, which is very important for strawberries.
You can plant marigolds not only in beds and between rows, but also along the entire garden perimeter. It is also useful, when digging up the soil in spring, to scatter finely chopped marigold stems in it.
The proximity of strawberries to trees and shrubs
Favorable for strawberries and proximity to various trees and bushes. They have a good effect on berries, pines, sea buckthorn, grapes, etc. The main thing is that the trees do not shade the beds too much.
Under no circumstances should strawberries be planted next to a birch tree; it does not tolerate such proximity very well. So much so that you may not see any harvest at all, destroying all the berries.
Plants that should not be planted with strawberries
For some reason, some gardeners have an ingrained opinion about the almost absolute unpretentiousness of strawberries and the ability to plant them with the most different plants. This statement is partly true: you can plant anything and with anything. The only question is how this will affect the harvest, and simply the survival of the plant.
Here is a list of plants that agronomists categorically do not recommend planting strawberries next to:
- crops of the nightshade family;
- plants of the clove family;
- raspberries;
- cabbage;
- horseradish;
- sunflower;
- Jerusalem artichoke.
The most worst neighbors for garden strawberries, crops of the nightshade family will become: tomatoes and potatoes, especially the latter. In addition to the fact that it consumes substances necessary for strawberries, it is a carrier of late blight. Such a neighborhood can very quickly (in 1.5-2 months) destroy a strawberry bed.
Garden strawberries also do not get along well with plants of the clove family. And sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil for a long time and can harm not only strawberries, but also other plants, especially considering that the husks of sunflower seeds are poisonous. It is strictly not recommended to plant these plants near strawberry beds.
This also applies to raspberries, which many summer residents often try to plant next to strawberries - and completely in vain, since raspberry bushes shade the strawberry beds and greatly dry out the soil. As a result, garden strawberries often stop bearing fruit altogether.
Cabbage is an undesirable neighbor, as it needs the same substances as strawberries. In addition, she needs constant and abundant watering in much large quantities, how garden strawberries. These incompatible crops should not be planted in the same area.
Every gardener who grows strawberries always hopes to get a bountiful harvest of these delicious, wonderful berries. Today we told you about which plants will contribute to this, and which will only cause harm. If we take into account the local climatic features, do not forget about proper crop rotation, and also ensure compassionate care care of the plant (timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds), then the grateful berry will certainly please the owner with a rich harvest.
When planting garlic, you need to follow many rules that relate to the selection of a place for planting, soil preparation and planting material. But it is equally important that all crops on the site be planted in such a way that the garlic has the “right” neighbors. Many beginning gardeners make the irreparable mistake of planting incompatible crops nearby. Let's try to give some tips that will help you avoid unpleasant consequences, and let’s figure out what can be planted next to garlic.
Correct crop rotation It has great value in any gardening farm. Experienced gardeners carefully plan where and what beds will be located, what will grow on them. It takes into account what crops grew in the garden in the previous year. Compatibility with other crops is important; if the combination is chosen correctly, berries, vegetables, and green crops will not get sick, and in the fall they will delight you with a healthy and rich harvest.
Unsuitable crops can inhibit plant growth. They will “reward” the plant with many diseases, fungal infections, which will adversely affect the harvest or lead to death. All this fully applies to garlic, the most popular vegetable in the garden.
Predecessors of garlic
You can’t just choose a place to plant and plant garlic. It is necessary to know what plants grew in this place. Each crop has its own effect on the growth of garlic.
It is not recommended to plant garlic after garlic and onions. It is better to give preference to melons and grain crops. These plants and also forage grasses, legumes saturate the soil with useful microelements and have a positive effect on mineral composition. This allows you to get big harvest healthy large bulbs.
Undesirable crops for garlic are radishes, carrots, and turnips. Coriander, mint, basil, and celery are also not suitable as predecessors. Lettuce is also not perceived by garlic as a previous crop, although it grows well next to it. Strong and aromatic heads of garlic can be collected if you plant the vegetable after potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, squash or pumpkin. It is worth noting that garlic itself is good predecessor for almost all cultures.
What to plant next to garlic
What to plant garlic with? Are there any plants that cannot grow next to this spice? In garlic high concentration biologically active substances, in the garden it plays the role of a suburban fungicide that successfully copes with any fungal infections. The plant also produces phytoncides that suppress the growth of pathogenic bacteria. These qualities of garlic have a beneficial effect on most neighbors of the crop, nourishing and strengthening the plants.
For example, potatoes and healthy garlic crops together help potatoes suffer less from late blight. When planting garlic between strawberry bushes, you can repel most insects that harm the crop from the garlic. If the garlic bed is located next to lettuce and carrots, this will help get rid of the psyllid or carrot fly, which often infect carrots.
Garlic becomes a good companion for vegetables and herbs. You can plant the cloves between plants such as cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley, and any types of salads.
What to plant next to garlic? Garlic is a real protector of flowers and berries. The proximity to currants, raspberries, gladioli, roses and tulips is especially favorable.
Onions and garlic: together or separately
Is it possible to plant onions together with garlic? This question often worries gardeners. We have already found out that garlic should not be planted after onions, but how do these crops behave when located next door? On this score, vegetable growers different opinions. Growing onions and garlic in neighboring beds is a bad choice. This is not strictly prohibited, but these crops belong to the same family and have the same diseases.
These plants have a lot in common: they are planted at the same time, they also ripen almost at the same time, these crops feel good only in sunlight. Therefore, if the area is small, you need to save space and you can place the plants nearby. It is still not recommended to plant onions and garlic close to each other in the same bed; the distance should be approximately 15 cm. You just need to carefully ensure that planting material there were no pests or diseases.
Garlic and strawberries: better together
Strawberries (strawberries) and garlic are the friendliest neighbors. They can only benefit each other. From such combined (joint) plantings, everyone benefits, both the crops and the gardener. Garlic is a biological protector of strawberries from pests, as well as fungal and underground diseases of strawberries. This becomes possible due to the released phytoncides.
Garlic not only repels slugs, but also mole crickets and larvae chafer. Both plants are moisture-loving. Once every five to six days it is necessary to water the beds. Some gardeners grow garlic in strawberry beds, but do not dig it up, but only cut the greens in the summer. Next year the garlic harvest will also be good. Strawberry-cabbage, strawberry-cucumber, strawberry-carrot are also excellent neighboring crops.
Combination of garlic with legumes
After legumes, garlic grows well, but it doesn’t want to see beans and peas among its neighbors. These vegetables don't want to get along with each other. They get sick, their productivity decreases. Peas and cucumbers are a good combination, but beans and peas also conflict with each other. Vegetables have complex relationships, don't they?
Mixed planting: planting or harm
Mixed cultivation (alelopathy) is special kind cultivating several crops in one bed, planted according to a certain pattern. Is such a landing relevant? For which crops is it needed and why?
The advantage of planting multiple crops is that each plant performs its own function, protecting each other. Even the American Indians cultivated plants according to this principle. The most popular combination: corn, peas and pumpkin. Peas saturate the soil with nitrogen, pumpkin fights weeds, and corn serves as support. the main task- choose the right crops. Some plants growing near others can improve their flavor. For example, celery and onions improve the taste of tomatoes. Cucumbers next to sunflowers will grow crispy and juicy.
But garlic rarely wins in any neighborhood, despite all its beneficial features. A bed of garlic should not be located next to peanuts or lentils. These crops stop developing and bearing fruit normally. Planting perennial onions next to garlic will not grow. But garlic grows excellently with raspberries and currants, having a beneficial effect on berry crops.
When planting different crops in the same bed, it is necessary to strictly follow the planting pattern. Plants should not block sunlight each other. It is necessary to take into account the height of each plant that will grow together, ensuring tiered planting. The main crops should be higher than the compactors. This landing creates favorable conditions for the root system.
The disadvantages of the method include the fact that allelopathy is too in a complicated way landings. It requires deep knowledge of all crops, their properties, growing times, and even a lot of experience. It is better for novice gardeners not to risk planting, because incorrect planting of at least one plant will lead to the destruction of the crop.
You can understand what to plant tomatoes next to by studying in detail the needs of the plants.
The best neighbors in the garden bed will be other nightshades that have similar agrotechnical requirements.
And here moisture-loving cucumbers It’s better to move them to the other end of the greenhouse; these plants get along together with difficulty.
You can understand what to plant tomatoes next to by studying in detail the needs of the plants
Joint cultivation: pros and cons
- saving space, it is especially relevant for greenhouses;
- the plantings look very beautiful, resembling not boring beds, but a thoughtful still life;
- spicy herbs, onions or garlic can protect against pests;
- some plants can speed up the ripening of tomatoes and give the fruit a pleasant taste;
- crops mutually enrich the soil, reducing the need for fertilizers;
- after tomatoes there is no need to sow the plantation with green manure;
- simplifies the care of beds;
- With mixed sowing, there is no need to change plants every year.
Despite its many advantages, joint planting also has disadvantages:
- when placed next to tall bushes(raspberries, currants) tomatoes may not have enough sun;
- some plants have excellent requirements for watering, fertilizers, and loosening;
- there is a danger of cross-pollination.
Correct plant compatibility will help avoid possible troubles. It is important to understand what to plant tomatoes next to and which crops to avoid. A thoughtful selection of predecessors, successors and neighbors will help increase productivity and simplify the care of the garden.
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Greenhouse neighbors
Selecting good neighbors is especially important when filling greenhouses or greenhouses. In a limited space, it is difficult for plants to provide diametrically opposed conditions. The best neighbors for tomatoes are other nightshades, especially peppers and eggplants. They have similar requirements for soil composition. All these crops prefer light and nutritious soil. Perfect option- black soil or sandy loam. On loams, yields can be significantly reduced. When watering, you need to take into account that tomatoes are less moisture-loving than peppers. Will help solve the issue automatic system, precisely dosing the water supply.
Compatibility also depends on the variety. Modern first generation hybrids are more tolerant and grow well next to other plants.
You can sow greens in the rows: dill, parsley, herbs. Onions and garlic protect bushes from pests, purple basil gives the fruit a pleasant taste. A good neighbor for tomatoes - early vegetables: radishes, cabbage. The heads of cabbage are cut before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit, so that the crops do not interfere with each other. Nothing prevents you from planting the next batch of cabbage or lettuce after harvesting the first harvest.
From time to time, the soil in the greenhouse should rest and recover. The safest and most inexpensive option is green manure plants. They enrich the soil with valuable microelements and saturate it with nitrogen. After the tomatoes, phacelia or alfalfa are planted; at the end of the season, these herbs become a natural fertilizer.
It is important to understand what to plant tomatoes next to and which crops to avoid
What to plant in an open garden
The best neighbors of tomatoes in open ground- carrots, radishes, garlic, beets, celery, radishes, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or White cabbage, broccoli. Spicy herbs are often planted between the rows: basil, mint, lemon balm, borage. In the south, watermelons, melons, and corn can be sown next to tomatoes. All nightshades get along well with these plants; proximity to melons reduces the number of insect pests and prevents some unpleasant diseases.
IN small garden You can plant strawberries next to the tomatoes. It is not difficult to understand what to plant after tomatoes. Legumes, various flowers, herbs that are undemanding in terms of soil nutrition are placed on depleted soil. A good option is to sow a former tomato plantation with phacelia, alfalfa, leaf mustard or soy. After tomatoes, you can plant potatoes, but you will need to add humus and mineral fertilizers to the soil.
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Predecessors and successors: rules of choice
The question of when to plant tomatoes worries all gardeners interested in bountiful harvest. The best predecessors tomatoes - various types of cabbage, legumes, cabbage or leaf salads. These plants enrich the soil with nitrogen and other valuable microelements. You should not plant tomatoes in beds that were occupied by eggplants, potatoes, and peppers.
Green manure plants are necessary for extensive plantings. They must be sown in industrial greenhouses or in beds a year before tomato seedlings are placed on them.
As precursors that nourish the soil useful elements, various cruciferous vegetables act: mustard, soybeans, alfalfa, cabbage or red cabbage, pumpkin. Good green manure - cucumbers, beets, turnips, green onions, squash or zucchini.
Green manure plants are necessary for extensive plantings
Next year after tomatoes it is better to plant different varieties cabbage or occupy a plantation with legumes. They are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, and typical nightshade diseases are not harmful to peas and beans. You cannot plant tomatoes after strawberries, eggplants, potatoes, and peppers. If the area is small, it is better to divide it into 3 parts in advance. Herbs will act as an intermediate crop between incompatible plants. Within a year of sowing alfalfa or vetch, the land will be completely restored.
Questions about what to plant tomatoes after and what can be placed in the beds occupied by nightshades concern many gardeners. There are few strict contraindications; most cultures will easily tolerate the neighborhood. Don't be afraid of experiments; sometimes the most unexpected combinations bring success.
