When to dig up the ground. Digging the ground in the fall: what fertilizers to apply to the soil

Argument one

"For". Autumn digging allows you to destroy all these diseases and “heal” the soil. Due to what?

Mainly due to the activity of microorganisms. Beneficial microbes live in our garden beds. Moreover, there are quite a lot of them: on good soil - about 10 kg per 1 m 2. It’s hard to even imagine such a number.

This whole mass destroys harmful microflora, in other words, the same cabbage clubroot, late blight and other diseases. And the gardener's task is to help these beneficial bacteria do your daily work, that is, live and reproduce stronger.

To do this, you need to create several conditions.

First, give the microorganisms food. These are any types of organic matter: manure, compost, humus, rotted sawdust, weeds that are introduced into the soil during digging.

At worst, microbes will make do with the roots of plants that remain in the soil after harvesting.

Secondly, provide the microorganisms with air. The fact is that microbes useful for the garden can only multiply in the air. But without air access, harmful microflora are preserved in our beds.

"Against". The soil is densely populated by microorganisms and lower animal organisms.

When the soil is dug to the depth of a spade bayonet, the soil layer is turned over and the layers are mixed. Many types of microorganisms find themselves in an environment alien to themselves, which causes a significant portion of them to die.

Soil devoid of microorganisms becomes lifeless and infertile. Having lost its inhabitants, it loses its structure and subsequently collapses. Such soil is washed away by rains and carried away by winds.

It takes from 2 to 5 years to restore the disturbed balance. And until the number of microorganisms is restored, no fertilizer will help.

Argument two

"For". Not the last condition for the successful functioning of beneficial microorganisms is the presence of moisture. In overdried soil, the work of microbes is insignificant, and their life itself barely glimmers. By digging up the beds, the gardener mixes dry and wet soil and thereby helps microbes multiply.

They may ask: is it necessary to dig if there is no rain and the soil is dry? Necessary! After summer droughts, when even the grass burned out in the meadows, they try to start digging up the beds immediately after harvesting. The shovel rattles because the earth is so caked that it does not crumble, but turns out into lumps. It seems that there is not a drop of moisture - what kind of life of microorganisms are we talking about?

But after a week, if you turn out the soil with a shovel, you can see that it has darkened slightly from moisture. Where does the water come from when there is still no rain? From the air. Night moisture and dew condense in the numerous pores of the dug up earth. The greater the difference between night and day temperatures, the greater the nocturnal effusion. Therefore, you should not wait for the autumn rains, which may not come, but dig up the beds as the harvest is cleared. Thanks to this, beneficial microorganisms will begin work on improving the health and cultivation of the garden earlier.

"Against". When digging the soil, the air microchannels through which moisture and air penetrate into the arable layer are disrupted.

As a result, they do not deliver to the area of ​​sucking roots minerals, necessary for normal plant nutrition. During rains, the dug up soil turns into mud, and after drying, the soil becomes covered with a hard shell. The roots stop growing and the plants degrade.

Soil microorganisms form microscopic channels through which moisture penetrates, and after it is absorbed, air rushes into the soil in the same way. In addition, there are passages that worms make in the soil.

In the fall, digging up the soil to destroy the pests that hibernate in it, the gardener completely disrupts the water and air exchange systems. In the spring, when digging again, the channels created by roots and bacteria are completely destroyed. When digging twice, all this complex system is destroyed, and the soil becomes so caked in dry times that it has to be literally chiseled away.

Argument three

"For". Autumn digging of the soil has several purposes. First of all, it frees the garden from weeds. Frequent autumn rains provoke rapid development sow thistle, woodlice, milkweed, which, if given free rein, manage to cover the beds with a continuous carpet before the snowfall. Digging also allows you to speed up spring work in the garden. So looser beds dry out faster.

But still, the main advantage of autumn digging in our gardens is that it heals the soil. In one, the cabbage was affected by clubroot, in another, the tomato crop was lost due to late blight, in the third, the soil became pathogenic due to the introduction of fresh manure that had not decomposed over the summer.

"Against". During autumn digging, all seeds weeds from the surface they are transferred into the soil, where they are safely preserved until spring. After overwintering, when digging again in the spring, the weed seeds - what is most offensive, through the efforts of the gardener himself - move back to the damp surface of the earth and germinate.

Argument four

"For". When tilling the soil in this way, you can simultaneously apply manure or compost.

First scatter them over the surface of the area, otherwise they may lie in large unbroken lumps at the bottom of the furrow.

"Against". After digging, the soil surface remains “bare,” which leads to drying out and destruction of its top layer, in the cracks of which weeds grow.

That is why the soil should not be dug up, but covered with mulch material.

In the fall, mulch will return to the soil what the plants have used up. organic matter and will protect their superficial root system from the cold. In spring - will cover the surface from straight lines sun rays, will protect top layer from drying out and destruction.

Argument five

"For". Causative agents of all kinds of diseases, including those harmful not only to plants, but also to humans, can lie in compacted soil for several years.

This is why clubroot can affect your plants and next year, if you leave the cabbage unattended.

"Against". With repeated deep digging, the most fertile part of the soil, containing humus, is dispersed throughout the entire thickness of the dug layer.

Meanwhile, our soils are not so fertile as to “spread” humus over all its layers.

On the street deep autumn, the last root crops have been harvested and the earth is preparing to rest. At such a time, summer residents often wonder whether it is necessary to dig up the garden in the fall, because after harvesting all the vacant plots are already dug up.

Purpose of digging

Why should you dig up soil in your garden at all? For example, in the fall it increases in volume by almost one and a half times due to porous air ducts. When loose, carbon dioxide and oxygen help plant residues to quickly decompose and create nutritious humus. In such soil root system crops easily penetrate deep into the soil, find moisture and food, thanks to this, plants can withstand frosts and dry periods.

So, when is the best time to dig up your garden? There are a lot of arguments on this matter, arguments and conclusions too, and diametrically opposed ones.

Digging in the fall

The work ahead is hard and not everyone enjoys it, but, according to experts, the turnover of the earthen layer in autumn time necessary and for the following reasons:

  • to saturate the earth with beneficial microorganisms (and their number has already been calculated - ten kilograms per square meter), it is necessary to add organic matter - compost, humus, manure, rotted sawdust, ash, and all these useful things are added only during autumn digging
  • allow microorganisms and the earth to breathe, because air helps the process of their reproduction
  • weed seeds will fall to a depth from which they will not be able to germinate in the spring
  • weeds moved deeper will rot and fertilize the soil
  • pests that are in the ground and prepared for hibernation (Colorado potato beetles, caterpillars, various wireworms), once on the surface, they will die from the wind, sun or be eaten by birds
  • in the soil loosened in autumn, nitrogen-containing microorganisms are activated and fixed; they saturate the soil plant forms nitrogen
  • a layer of earth that reaches the top, saturated with fertilizers and minerals, that is, it seems to be useful for future plants
  • if there are trees on the site, their leaves are buried and become useful humus
  • After a dry summer and dry autumn, inverted clods of earth retain moisture, which is created by air, dew, and condensation. And it, in turn, results from differences in warm daytime and cold night temperatures.

Without waiting for the autumn rains, you can immediately dig up the vacated areas of the bed. Then nutritious organisms will begin to cultivate and improve the soil earlier.

Digging in the fall saves time, which will be useful when preparing gardens in the spring, and this is probably the strongest argument in solving the problem of when to dig up a garden in the fall or spring.

Controversial aspects of autumn gardening

Autumn digging for today is controversial issue, and experienced gardeners who prefer spring treatment land, it is also justified:

  • when turning over a layer of soil in the fall, beneficial worms may die, but according to statistics, there are only ten percent of them; most of them are in clods that are not broken up in the fall
  • during spring digging, all processes are actively renewed, the soil at this time is able to give up all its useful substances new plants and grains
  • To avoid weathering of food and moisture, in the spring the dug up soil is immediately harrowed. Its structure allows this to be carried out, but in the fall this process is in no way possible, because summer period the earth becomes so compacted that it has to be crushed
  • fallen leaves - perfect healthy trees rare on the site now, so with fallen leaves fruit trees During autumn digging, their pathogenic microbes can also get into the soil; they are preserved and waiting in the wings. So, regarding fallen leaves, the answer is obvious - they need to be removed from the garden.

Regarding the depth of digging, agricultural technicians have proven that it is the top five to ten centimeters of the soil layer that are 100% useful; the further in depth, the poorer the soil. By turning the layer over onto the bayonet of a shovel, we bury beneficial microorganisms in the fertile soil, and the top layer turns out destroyed, lifeless, and infertile. By nature, biological soil changes from active to passive, and it needs time to recover, which, out of annual habit, we simply do not give it.

It also happens that suddenly in the area allocated for a vegetable garden, the fertile layer is small and when digging deeply, the subsoil comes to the top. And it can consist of sand, podzolic infertile soil, clay. They, mixing with already cultivated soil, reduce its fertility, and this area will constantly need additional fertilizer.

Do you need to dig up your garden in the fall?

And this depends on the composition of the soil. After all, each soil has its own density, and for our crops we need the optimal one.

For example, marshy soil is favorable for vegetables because it is light. It is not necessary to dig it up in the fall, and it is useless. After the autumn digging, in the spring it will have to be treated with a roller in order to regulate the humidity and create conditions for the beneficial development of the planted crops.

Chernozem is a mechanically heavy composition, moisture-intensive, very dense. The mandatory depth of plowing is up to thirty centimeters. It is especially necessary to work in heavily clogged areas, and it is necessary to apply fertilizers.

Sandy, sandy loam and peat soils do not need digging. And here, if you consider that only the top layer is useful, you can cultivate such land with a small cultivator. You should not apply fertilizers to the entire area; this is a difficult and impractical task, because the nutrition is quickly washed away by precipitation and watering. It is more convenient and useful to apply specifically to the planned separated areas. vegetable crops plots or directly into holes during spring planting.

You should also not adapt to your neighbors. Areas located very close may differ greatly in type and humidity. Lowland ones are damp, wet, they are well suited for arranging high beds, which will dry out faster and be better warmed up by the spring sun.

Light soil is soddy-podzolic, sandy loam is dry and not suitable for raised beds. Due to double drying out, the plants will have a hard time and will have to be watered more often. IN in this case They use conventional planting, at ground level, and this saves effort, time and the result is pleasing.

Labor-intensive activities, such as digging up beds and adding useful ash, lime, manure, formation of areas for necessary crops, it is better to carry out taking into account the above factors. After all, in the fall we have more time to prepare for the future dacha season, and in his garden, each gardener himself determines when, what and where to dig or not to dig.

Currently, opinions on this matter are divided into two opposing camps. Supporters of the traditional approach believe that autumn digging is very useful. Thanks to it, pests and weeds are destroyed, and the soil is aerated.

Supporters of new techniques, including organic farming On the contrary, they believe that digging up the earth is harmful. Defenders of this theory treat the soil as a separate living organism and argue that when digging, we disturb the structure of the soil and do not give it the opportunity to recover.

What should a gardener and gardener choose?

First of all, there is no doubt that the soil needs cultivation, which will help replenish the supply. nutrients. The soil also needs air for natural processes to occur.

Therefore, the type of autumn tillage depends on its type. If you have heavy, clayey soil in your garden, then you must dig it up. Light, loose, cultivated soils do not need such a procedure; deep loosening is enough for them.

When digging up clay soil, you do not need to turn it over, but only shift it. This way you can remove the roots of weeds and provide air access to the depth. In this case, the soil structure will not be affected.

The fact is that a large number of beneficial microorganisms live in the earth. By turning over the soil, we mix those that live on the surface deeper, which leads to their death. Conversely, those living at depth die when they reach the soil surface.

Tillage is carried out immediately after harvesting. To improve the soil structure, you can use mustard, for example.

The plants are left on the site to rot under the snow. Thanks to this, the soil in your garden will become looser over time without losing its nutritional qualities.

When digging a garden, all nitrogen-fixing organisms are activated, which in turn enrich the soil with nitrogen forms, the most suitable plants. But the effect is visible only if the soil is fenced. Otherwise, everything useful that began to develop in the soil simply disappears.

So, whether it is necessary to dig up the garden in the fall, each gardener decides for himself. Some people prefer methods that have been proven over the years and dig up areas. More daring innovators try new options and sometimes refuse to dig at all.

Some summer residents believe that autumn digging of the site is not at all necessary, and refrain from this process. But we are simply convinced that digging up the earth in the fall is necessary, and now we will tell you why we think so.

Autumn digging of the soil is carried out after harvesting and removing garbage from the site. When the soil is completely cleared of tops and other plant debris, you can safely begin the process.

Why is autumn digging of the soil necessary?

Weed removal

While digging the soil, you can quite effectively clear the soil of weeds. Deep development will help remove rhizomes perennial plants, who have been ruining your nerves for several years now, and are going to do this for many more years. Rhizomes can be looked for and selected, dumped on a heap, dried and burned.

In addition, this process also perfectly destroys annual weeds, the seeds of which often freeze in the developed soil in winter, which means that in the spring they will no longer germinate on the site.

It will not be possible to remove all weeds this way, but it is quite possible to significantly reduce their number.

Improving water and air conditions

Autumn digging summer cottage seriously improves the soil water and air regimes. Thanks to this, the soil will ripen much earlier in the spring; you just need to work a little in the fall.

Removal of diseases and pests

Viruses that have settled in the soil feel quite good in compacted solid soil, but if you expand it well, then most of the pathogenic flora can die on winter frost, since unbroken pieces of dug up soil will freeze with the first drop in temperature. Naturally, frost alone will not save you from all soil diseases, and additional disinfection will be required, but at least you will make your work much easier.

Digging up your garden or vegetable garden will also help you get rid of many pests. You can always select adult representatives of this class and their larvae manually, and small insect pests They will also die in the cold at the next drop in temperature.

Fertilizer for digging

Autumn soil fertilization has a very good effect on many plants. Large quantity some of them even require autumn fertilizer, and perhaps this only becomes possible due to digging the soil, thanks to which fertilizers mix well with the soil and transfer nutrients to it.

Organic fertilizers such as manure and compost do well in turned soil. At the same time, you can apply some mineral fertilizers, as well as carry out the process of liming the soil.

Natural influence

Beds without digging can show good results, but only for some crops. In general, plants prefer loose soil with good aeration, disinfected and well fertilized.

Thanks to natural conditions, the dug up earth will freeze much deeper, which means it will become cleaner. In addition, you will provide a certain layer with improved absorption of both autumn and spring precipitation, even during snow melting.

We should not forget that looser soil will allow almost every root system to grow normally in the soil and move in the right direction for nutrients and water.

Making spring work easier

If you dig your garden in the spring, you will never achieve the same result as when autumn work Oh. Moreover, in the spring it will always be much more pleasant to immediately start planting plants, just after lightly raking the area, than to take a shovel and dig, dig, dig...

Constant digging is useful for both heavy soils and chernozem soils, where the arable layer needs to be deepened by 25-30 cm annually.

How to choose a tool for digging earth

It won’t be difficult, because each of us has already worked in the garden special devices.

Shovel for digging

A strong and sharp bayonet shovel is perfect for a process during which you will not only allow the soil of your garden or garden to become healthier and more fertile, but also warm up a little. We have already told you how to properly dig on a site earlier, and therefore you can borrow correct technique exactly from that material.

Digging forks

You can also use a pitchfork to dig up the soil in the fall, especially since it is very convenient to remove large clods of earth from a single layer. The digging technique is practically no different from digging with a shovel, however, there are some nuances that you will immediately notice during the process.

Digging up a site with a cultivator

Well, here everything will be much easier and faster, because digging up the earth with a walk-behind tractor or digging up the earth with a cultivator is not something you can do with a shovel. The process goes much faster and much more evenly, especially since the next morning you will not feel serious soreness like after working with a shovel or pitchfork. The only thing is that you will have to spend a little on fuel, but this is not such a serious expense.

When choosing a device for digging up soil at your dacha, be guided by the amount of work and requirements, this will be much more correct. When digging in the fall, do not break the earthen clods, but simply turn them over.

How to make your work easier when digging up your plot in the fall (video)

Autumn digging of a vegetable garden or garden, It is always done very carefully, especially if there are young trees and shrubs nearby. You have to be very careful not to damage the plants you are trying to help grow stronger and more fruitful.



Reviews and comments

(3 ratings, average: 2,17 out of 5)

Anatoly 09/17/2017

If you want to receive good harvest from the garden, then digging it up in the fall is mandatory! Digging up the garden in the spring reduces the yield significantly (it has also been tested on personal experience and from the experience of neighbors), and if you are also late with planting, then you can’t expect a harvest. Neither watering nor foliar feeding can save you. The essence is extremely simple - up to 80% of the substances necessary for their growth and fruiting are obtained from garden crops air. For the process of photosynthesis, plants need light, heat, carbon dioxide and water. The root system, which supplies the missing 20% ​​of nutrients, needs oxygen and water. But watering warm water well-warmed soil in the heat delivers almost no oxygen to the roots; when heated, water loses bound oxygen atoms and watering is of little use. However, fertile or well-fertilized soils release carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide and methane into the atmosphere, which are formed during the decomposition of dead soil by bacteria remnants of roots and other organic matter. Plants in fertile soils always contain bacteria that can feed on methane, releasing carbon dioxide, hydrogen and carbon. Plants can, instead of splitting water into oxygen and hydrogen, use this ready-made hydrogen to restore carbon dioxide, splitting it into carbon and oxygen and thus providing foliar feeding carbon with a minimum amount of water. From here it becomes clear why autumn digging of the soil is so important. No matter how well the soil is loosened plants in summer in the fall it still cakes, which means that gases accumulate in the soil, including carbon dioxide and methane, which have a suffocating effect on germinating seeds and plant roots. Therefore, in the fall you need to loosen the soil as much as possible, digging it up to release the accumulated gases over the winter , although bacteria in the soil are inactive in the soil below the freezing depth, gases still accumulate over several months, as soon as the soil thaws, the gases are released into the atmosphere through the dug up soil. As soon as the soil has warmed up, you should plant immediately, and not dig and release the gas. If you plant later , when the soil warms up well, the released gases will simply choke the sprouts, because the bacteria in the soil will already be very active. That is, by the time the abundant release of gases from the soil begins, the plants should already have an above-ground part, and then there will be a good harvest, especially if you loosen soil in the summer. The gardener’s art lies precisely in determining the moment of planting, because returning cold and frost can also destroy the crop.

Irina 09/19/2017

Not in the fall. I haven’t dug up the beds in the spring for 9 years! Digging up the soil is harmful to the microorganisms inhabiting it. who die. if they change their living conditions. Aerobic bacteria. those inhabiting the top layer of soil need oxygen. Anaerobic. those who live deeper - no. When the earth is turned over. both of them die! Without these living organisms, plants cannot develop normally. Their immunity decreases. which leads to diseases and pests. As a result, productivity decreases and the amount of pesticides increases. used for plant protection! All chemistry. which gardeners use to protect plants, ultimately enters their bodies. As a result, there are more and more pharmacies. healthy people less and less. I only loosen the soil with a flat cutter and a cultivator to a depth of 5 cm. The yield increases every year. I recommend everyone to start caring for the earth correctly so as not to disturb its structure.

Vladimir 09.19.2017

Yeah, both of them are so convincing... And who is right?!??

Sergey 09/19/2017

Indeed, so many people, so many opinions...

NatashaPetrova 09/20/2017

I don’t dig my own garden, neither in the spring nor in the fall. We have stationary raised beds, so digging is neither possible nor necessary. We did it when we moved to the village, having read about the dangers of digging. Now I can say that I am satisfied with this system and move on to traditional ways I won't process it. If only because we have a high groundwater level - the water is literally under the fertile layer. And this year this was most clearly manifested - neighbors with traditional digging and plowing caught potatoes and onions from the water, which this year is not only under the fertile layer, at the depth of a spade, but level with the soil.
The theory about gases expressed above by Anatoly, in my opinion, is not tenable. At least in terms of the ratio of nutrients received by plants from the air and soil.
Digging in the fall (if digging at all), in my opinion, is more important, because this way in the spring you can plant plants faster and they will begin to grow faster and more efficiently, because, firstly, moisture leaves, and secondly, it really If the soil cover is heavily disturbed in the spring, it will take some time to restore microlife.

Territory of the House 09/20/2017

We, in recent years We don’t dig in the fall, but plant green manure, specifically mustard, and with them our soil goes into the winter, and in the spring we dig up where we will plant the plants. The soil has become fluffier and easier to dig.

Elena 09/01/2018

We always dig up the plot in the fall, dig it up, and then plant mustard. At one time I thought that this was a monkey’s work, because the weeds still sprout in the spring, but as soon as we didn’t dig in the fall, I thought that I would die there on the site until I removed all the weeds.

Add a comment

Do I need to dig deep into the soil often? Tilling the soil twice a year (often incorrectly) and continuously loosening it in the summer does not contribute to improvement, as many gardeners believe, but to the dispersion of the soil structure. This means that such deep tillage of the soil in the garden should not be abused unnecessarily, although in the fall on heavy clay soil It’s practically impossible to do without it.

Digging of heavy soil to a depth of no more than 15 cm should be done only in the fall, without turning the soil over, but only shifting it and removing the roots of perennial weeds.

Leveling the ground in autumn

A mandatory operation is leveling, which refers to surface treatment soil. It is usually produced during spring processing using a rake. When the soil is dry enough, you need to level its surface to reduce the evaporation of water that comes with the spring melting of snow. To do this, break up the clods of earth left in the fall and evenly distribute the entire volume of soil over the area using a rake; at the same time, you can scatter mineral fertilizers and level them with the soil. The rake is driven back and forth with constant force, in smooth, continuous movements, ensuring that the teeth glide across the surface of the soil without digging it up. Pre-dug soil is leveled

reciprocating movements of the rake, first in one and then in a perpendicular direction. A rake is usually used to lightly cover the seeds after sowing, displace the soil into furrows, and collect leaves, dry grass, last year’s mulch, and any debris from the area.

When to till the soil in the fall

There are several methods for autumn tillage using this technology, both using an EM solution and using EM compost. But there is one thing general condition: the higher the soil temperature, the more active microorganisms work. Therefore, the sooner you till the soil, the more benefits they will have time to bring it.

The first method: weed the weeds and, without removing them, treat the soil with a solution of the EM preparation. Microorganisms immediately get to work, decomposing the cut parts of plants and the roots remaining in the ground. Weed seeds germinate together, but with the onset of frost the seedlings die.

Method two: treat the damp soil with a solution of the EM preparation, loosen it by 5-7 cm and cover it with a layer of fallen leaves and plucked grass (mulch). Decomposing roots and mulch will make the soil much more fertile and improve its structure by spring.

What benefits does cultivating the land in autumn provide?

First of all, this simplifies and facilitates planting work in the spring. Even those who are against such an event agree with this. After all, when the last vegetables are collected, the cold weather is still quite far away. And if the weather is warm, the beds become overgrown with weeds. This means that if you don’t remove them now, then next season you’ll have to fight the dominance weed it will be more difficult. At autumn processing a good water-air regime is created for the soil for plants;

The thermal properties of the soil also improve in the spring, the soil will ripen faster for planting.

One of the advantages of autumn work is that the remains of stems, stones and other debris were removed ahead of time.

To dig or not to dig a garden by autumn

And the black earth is his work. How does a worm do this? Feels hungry, rises to the surface, captures plant debris along with the soil, descends, passing them through itself along the way, then frees itself from waste products. And so on in a circle.

During its movement, the worm leaves behind a passage that has access to the surface of the earth. This passage, it turns out, is filled with air and waste products of the worm - roughly speaking, its manure.

Tilling the soil in autumn with a walk-behind tractor

Deviations to the sides often occur - these are withdrawals that usually occur in furrows that have already been cultivated. This may lead to another question: how to properly plow with a walk-behind tractor so that the rotating blades do not go into the ground? Only appropriate manipulation of the handles can help with this. Unfortunately, careful monitoring must be carried out on any soil. So, on loose soil, it is necessary to ensure that the cutters do not dive too deep, and in the process of processing hard soil and virgin soil, it may be necessary to perform several approaches. It is advisable to carry out the first treatment at low speeds, and it is important to adjust the position of the coulter accordingly.

Fertilizing the soil with mineral fertilizers in the fall

These inorganic substances are obtained during chemical reactions, which are controlled by humans, or extracted from the bowels of the earth. Mineral fertilizers There are potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Moreover, they may contain various micro- and macroelements necessary for the normal functioning of trees.

Nitrate: calcium, sodium and ammonium;

Urea;

Ammonium sulfate.

Feeding with ash

You can make ash yourself. Just burn the weeds, tops and branches and scatter about 1 kilogram per square meter of soil, then dig up the ground. This is done once every 3 years. They love this food:

  • strawberry;
  • raspberry;
  • currant;
  • cabbage;
  • potato.

Don't overdo it with ash. This is dangerous because the plants will begin to rot after planting.

Applying organic fertilizers to the soil in autumn

Humus. Organic fertilizers usually include humus, chicken manure, and compost in the fall. On poor soils, fresh manure is applied up to 300-500 kg per hundred square meters. In September-October, they are scattered over a designated area and embedded in the soil.

Adding chicken manure. Concentrated organic fertilizer. Fertilizer applied directly under the root causes burns to the root system of plants. For fertilizing, bird droppings are diluted and used in the form of a liquid solution for fertilizing.

Compost. Compost is an organic fertilizer made from plant and animal waste with the addition of soil and (if available) peat.

Green fertilizers or green manures. Green fertilizers, or green manures, also belong to organic fertilizers. Winter green manures are sown after harvesting the main crop in the fall for digging or leaving until spring training soil. They are used on heavy floating soils for the purpose of loosening (rapeseed, oats, phacelia, mustard, rapeseed and others).

Killing weeds by autumn

Destruction of weeds chemically I spend it in calm and cloudy weather. For these purposes I use the herbicide Roundup. Before spraying weeds, growing nearby useful crops I cover them with film, otherwise they may die along with the weeds.

Latest articles about gardening

Mulching beds against weeds in the fall

You can use shredded bark, straw or grass clippings. Before laying mulch, I weed the soil well to remove perennial weeds along with the roots. Then I mulch the soil in a thick layer.

Improving the water and air regimes of the earth in autumn

Autumn digging of a summer cottage seriously improves the water and air regimes of the soil. Thanks to this, the soil will ripen much earlier in the spring; you just need to work a little in the fall.

Removal of diseases and pests

Viruses that have settled in the soil feel quite good in compacted solid soil, but if it is well expanded, then most of the pathogenic flora can die in the winter frost, since the unbroken pieces of dug up soil will freeze with the first drop in temperature. Naturally, frost alone will not save you from all soil diseases, and additional disinfection will be required, but at least you will make your work much easier.

Digging up your garden or vegetable garden will also help you get rid of many pests. You can always select adult representatives of this class and their larvae manually, and small insect pests will also die in the cold at the next drop in temperature.



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