How to grow onions in open ground. Growing onions: advice from gardeners

Planting onion sets is the most practiced method of growing a crop, allowing you to get bountiful harvest. To do this, take small onions, the mass of which does not exceed 5 g, and the diameter is 2 cm. This is the set, or arbazheika, arpachik. They receive it when the growing season of onions planted with seeds ends. Most summer residents prefer to purchase seedlings in specialized stores, without wasting time and effort on growing them in the garden.

Optimal site

The crop is demanding on the intensity and duration of lighting, so it is better to make onion beds outdoors. sun rays place. Plants need to be provided with moderate soil moisture, without overwatering them. Dry air will not affect their development. But the lack of moisture in the soil, especially at the stage active growth feathers and the formation of bulbs, will have a bad effect on the harvest. At the end of the growing season, watering the beds is stopped. Excessive humidity will slow down the ripening process of the bulbs and worsen their keeping quality. For this reason, seedlings should not be planted in areas prone to waterlogging and flooding, as well as in places with shallow groundwater.

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• potatoes;
• all types of beans;
• cabbage crops.

They all love organic fertilizers, so the seedlings will be comfortable in the soil freed up after them. Areas where beds with garlic, carrots and any types of onions were located last season are unsuitable for its cultivation.

The last condition must be observed, otherwise there is no point in hoping for a rich harvest. If crop rotation is disrupted, plantings often suffer from pathogens and pests accumulated in the soil, and in depleted soil they will not have the opportunity to grow a large head. The seedlings can be returned to their original site after 3-5 years have passed.

It is advisable to plant onions on turnips in loose and fertile soil. Acidic soils they don't suit him. They produce weak plants. They learn poorly nutritional elements and often suffer from peronosporosis. Powdery mildew greatly reduces the immunity of onions and makes them vulnerable to pests, despite proper care.

Acidic soil needs to be neutralized. You can do this by adding the following components to it:

• lime;
• chalk;
• wood ash;
• dolomite flour;
• ground limestone.

Soil preparation

They begin to prepare for planting onions in the fall. Having removed the predecessor plants, the weeds are removed. Experienced summer residents advise to carry out abundant watering so that the grass seeds remaining in the soil sprout and can be disposed of. This will greatly facilitate the care of plantings in unprotected soil in spring and summer.

Having scattered well-rotted manure over the site, it is carefully dug up, going 20-30 cm into the ground. Peat manure compost can also be used as a fertilizer for sowing. Enrich the soil with organic matter in the fall. Its application before planting will provoke intensive growth of green mass, and the bulbs will turn out small. Do not fertilize the soil with humus, fresh manure, or chicken droppings. They can cause plant diseases.

It is impossible to dig up the soil at the same time as manure and lime. Because of this, the fertilizer loses its effectiveness as its nitrogen content decreases. To neutralize the acidic reaction of the soil in this case, it is correct to use other compounds.

Autumn soil treatment includes the application mineral compositions with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. In the spring, the area allocated for turnips will need to be dug up again. Before the procedure, fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium are again scattered on the ground, adding nitrogen-containing ones. Nutritious chernozem soil does not require such preparation. It will be enough to add rotted organic matter to it during the autumn digging. If the land at the dacha is peaty, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, focusing on phosphorus compounds. Their dose will need to be increased by 30-40%.

Soaking or heating?

Proper preparation of onion sets for planting is the key to growing good harvest. The store-bought arbage needs to be dried. If you plan to plant seedlings from a garden that has been stored in cool conditions (at temperatures below 18°C), it should be warmed up. It is correct to do this in 2 stages.

• First, the bulbs are kept in a room where the air is heated to 20°C for 15-20 days.
• Then the temperature is increased by 10-20°C. In such conditions, the sevka needs to lie for 8 to 10 hours, but no more. Overheating will negatively affect its germination.

If it is not possible to carry out long-term pre-planting care, you can expose the waterweed to contrasting temperatures. Many summer residents prefer to soak it, saving time.

• The sets are poured with hot (45-50°C) water and left in it for 10-15 minutes.
• Having taken out the bulbs, they are immediately lowered into cold water for the same time. After this, the sets can be planted.

Both preparation options trigger growth processes in the bulbs and help prevent them from bolting. Soaking or heating is a matter of personal preference and time availability. Treatment of sowing with a growth stimulator is effective. It increases productivity and strengthens plant immunity. If special drug If you don’t have it on hand, you can use complex mineral fertilizer. In its solution planting material need to soak for 5-6 hours.

Pruning and disinfection

Professionals advise cutting the bulbs “to the shoulders”, removing them top part. This allows you to cull patients bacterial rot bulbs. Thanks to pruning, seedlings appear faster, they are more friendly, and the plants have the same height. Developing at the same speed, their heads mature at the same time. But for inexperienced summer residents it is better not to resort to pruning or to carry it out on several bulbs. If you remove too much, the seedling will be damaged. Then the onions will give little feathers, and the heads will ripen small.

A mandatory element of preparing seedlings for placement in the soil is disinfection. Most often, bulbs are disinfected by immersing them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. But copper sulfate is also suitable for this. For 10 liters of water take 35 g of the substance.

The secrets of crop productivity were known to our ancestors. They took a responsible approach to this task and knew how to prepare onion sets for planting:

• it was dried for a week in a warm place (at a temperature in the range of 20-25°C);
• We kept it in the salt solution for 3 hours, stirring 1 tbsp. l. substances in 1 liter of water;
• washed;
• disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate (it was recommended to soak the bulbs in it for such preparation for 2 hours);
• washed again;
• slightly dried.

This care made it possible to grow large bulbs without the use of chemicals.

How not to be late with deadlines

The timing of planting onions in open ground depends on the climate of the area and what kind of spring it will be. To germinate, the set needs warmth, so it is placed in the soil when its top 8-10 cm layer warms up to 12°C. IN middle lane this is often done at the end of April. In Siberia and the Urals, the optimal time for planting is shifted to the beginning of May (until the 10th). Best Landmark here - bird cherry and crocuses are blooming. The weather in the Urals is unstable, so they begin to plant seedlings there if the thermometer remains confidently at 5-10°C.

To get onion heads in Siberia earlier, you will have to try hard to prepare for its cultivation raised beds. The peculiarities of their design and filling allow the soil to warm up faster. Its temperature will be 7-9°C higher than at neighboring plot. In high beds, even in the harsh climate of Siberia, seedlings are placed in open ground almost at the same time as in the middle zone.

Planting in cold soil will cause onions to bolt early and reduce the plant's immunity, making them easy prey for pests. You also can’t delay the procedure, otherwise the soil will dry out, which will have a bad effect on the crop’s yield.

It is important to choose the right variety of sets. It must match the climate of the region. Seeds Buran, Family, and Red Baron are suitable for growing in the Urals. In Siberia, it is recommended to plant more hardened varieties: Arzamassky, Siberian annual, Ermak, Black Prince.

In regions with warm autumns, seedlings can be placed in beds in June (but at the beginning of the month). But if the cold comes early, already at the end of September, the bulbs will not ripen with such planting. The purpose of growing seedlings must also be taken into account. If it is bred for fresh greens, then planting in June and even later will be appropriate in any climate. Arbage is also grown for feathers in the winter - in greenhouses or at home.

Winter varieties of seedlings are popular among summer residents. In Siberian conditions they are planted in October. By the onset of frost, the onion should have time to produce 4-5 true leaves and grow a neck 5 cm thick.

Subtleties of landing

You need to plant the seedlings in the beds, sorting them by size. It determines the placement of the bulbs.

• If their diameter does not exceed 1 cm, the interval between them is 4-5 cm.
• For 1.5 cm bulbs it is increased to 6-8 cm.
• Sets with a diameter greater than 2 cm are placed at a distance of 8-10 cm.

Between adjacent rows in open ground leave 20-25 cm of free space. This will make it easier to care for onions planted on turnips. If you place plants more often, they are less ventilated, which increases the risk of disease. The seedlings are buried 3-4 cm.

Having immersed it in the soil and pressed it tightly around the bulb, the beds must be mulched. The correct way to do this is with straw, sawdust, and peat.

The mulch layer should be 2.5-3 cm. Experienced summer residents, after watering the bed before planting the seedlings, sprinkle it with sand. It is believed to increase the growth rate of bulbs. By placing the watermelon in the soil, seedlings can be expected within a week.

Loosening and watering frequency

Caring for beds with onions does not require special skills. It includes:

• regular loosening;
• watering;
• weed control.

Large bulbs can grow into light soil, which allows air to pass well to their root system. Care in the form of loosening begins early, before the emergence of seedlings, going 3 cm deep into the ground. It is repeated every 2 weeks, preventing the formation of a dense soil crust. Regular cultivation of the soil has another advantage - it prevents the growth of weeds. Ideally, each watering should be accompanied by loosening the soil.

When the bulbs grow to medium size, planting care includes unhilling. It accelerates the ripening of the crop and increases its size. It is carried out simply - little by little, the soil is raked away from the plants, exposing the head.

For onions, clean soil is important. It does not tolerate weeds in the neighborhood for 2 reasons:

• next to them, the bulbs form a thick neck, which makes them difficult to dry;
• Weeds help retain moisture in the soil, which often provokes crop diseases.

Regular watering of the seedlings is necessary for initial stages development. In May and June, such care is carried out once a week, focusing on weather conditions. Apply 7-8 liters of water per 1 m² of soil surface. When the bulbs begin to ripen, watering the beds is reduced to a minimum. But if July turns out to be dry, without moisture the plants will wither. In this case, they continue to be watered, but occasionally and moderately.

It will indicate a lack or excess of moisture appearance Luke. If its feathers have become bluish-white and bent at the tips, the plant does not have enough water. Overwatering causes onion leaves to turn pale green. Watering is completely stopped when there are 2-3 weeks left before harvesting.

Feeding and preparation for harvesting

Care in the form of fertilizing in onion farming is not necessary, but it can be done if the growth of the heads is slow. It is carried out in 2 stages using organic compounds. A manure solution is suitable for the first feeding. It is prepared by mixing 0.5 kg of the substance with 5 liters of water. This type of care is performed when 20 days have passed since planting the seedlings. For the second feeding, bird droppings are taken. It is correctly diluted at the rate of 0.5 kg of fertilizer per 7 liters of water. The plantings are fed with a nutrient composition a month after applying the manure solution.

Plant leaves should not be trimmed. This impairs the ripening of the bulbs, and the exposed neck becomes easily infected. Many summer residents trample down the withered tops closer to harvest. This technique has a bad effect on the quality of the bulbs. The leaves are given to them nutrients, due to which the ripening of turnips occurs. Trampling the tops interferes with this process.

Onions are a rewarding crop. It is easy to care for. Moist soil at the beginning of the growing season, loosening and weeding - that's all the onion needs to develop and form large heads. If you do not deprive the beds of attention and adhere to the rules of agricultural technology, the plants will delight you with a generous harvest at the end of summer.

Cultivating onions from sets is much less troublesome than when propagating them by seeds. It grows quickly, crowding out weeds and reducing the frequency of weeding. A developed root system increases its resistance to drought, so the beds with sets are watered less often than with onions sown with seeds. Such plants tolerate unfavorable weather conditions more easily, have good immunity and suffer less from pests and diseases. The ripening of bulbs in sets occurs faster, and they are stored better. It is not surprising that this method of breeding a crop has many fans among summer residents.

Growing onions in two years (seed crop)

The essence of the method is that in the first year small bulbs with a diameter of 1-3 cm and a weight of 1-4 g are grown from seeds. With this method, the bulbs ripen earlier and the onions are better stored in winter. Maturation accelerates by 30-45 days.

The preparation of soil and seeds is carried out in the same way as when growing from seeds in one year. To obtain a well-ripened set, sowing is carried out densely, with a distance between rows of 12-13 cm, and in a row the plants are spaced 1-2 cm apart. Per 10 sq. m. m will require 50-75 g of seeds. If nigella is sown rarely, then the seedlings on fertile soils will grow until autumn and will not ripen.

The seedlings are weeded and loosened 2-3 times, but not thinned out. When the second leaf appears, fertilize mineral fertilizers based on ammonium nitrate and superphosphate 10 g, potassium chloride -5 g per 10 sq. m.

Two months after sowing, only three or four leaves are formed, the height of the plant reaches 20 cm, small bulbs begin to form and the leaves turn yellow and die. Cleaning begins in August.

Harvesting timing has a significant impact on the yield of onion sets. The sooner the onion set finishes the growing season, the deeper the dormant period and the later it comes out of this period. Optimal time harvesting - 7 days after the start of leaf lodging. A sign of lodging of sets is a single lodging of leaves and their tops. You can’t delay harvesting, because with the onset of rainy weather, the sets begin to grow and are poorly stored.

Onion sets are pulled out of the soil by hand and left to dry for 10-15 days, turning over daily. The tops are removed only after complete drying, when they become thin and brittle. After drying the seedlings in the garden, they are finally dried indoors and stored until the spring of next year. Largest harvest onions get enough large set with a diameter of 22-25 mm, slightly smaller bulbs are obtained from smaller sets.

Onion sets are stored at a temperature of +12...18°C. Sets that are stored at low temperatures may produce more bolting bulbs.

Growing onions from onion sets

Processing of seedlings for planting in May begins at the end of April.

To prevent the formation of shoots and activate the growth of buds, as well as to disinfect onion sets, 20 days before planting, they are heated at a temperature of +45...40 ° C for 8 hours.

To combat onion thrips and stem nematode Before planting, the seeds are disinfected in hot (+45°C) water for 10 minutes, and then immediately immersed in cold water.

To grow onions, onion sets are planted in rows with row spacing of 20-25 cm, in a row small sets planted after 8 - 10 cm to a depth of 3 - 4 cm. Onion sets should be planted in moist soil when it warms up to + 10...12 ° C at a depth of 5-10 cm. Planting in unheated soil will encourage bolting.

For 10 sq. m requires 400-600 sets, when planting bulbs with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm they will weigh 350-500 g, with a diameter of 1.5-2.2 cm - 700-800 g.

Caring for onions should be the most thorough. No other crop responds to timely loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing as much as onions. Care consists of weeding and frequent shallow (4-5 cm) loosening of row spacing.

The first fertilizing is done 10 days after planting: 10-15 g of urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water. If plants grow intensively, nitrogen is excluded from feeding.

During the second feeding in early July, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride are dissolved in 10 liters of water. One bucket of solution is used per row 10 m long.

At the beginning of growth, onions require sufficient moisture. Excess moisture in the second half of the growing season, the formation of bulbs is delayed. Dry and hot weather is necessary for the bulbs to ripen. If the weather is humid, you can cover the onion with waterproof film, but ventilate it daily.

First you need to plant the seedlings correctly. The culture does not like clay soil or high acidity. If the soil is of this particular type, then the beds must be fertilized with peat and sand. To increase alkalinity when digging the soil, dolomite flour should be added. It is recommended to do this in the fall, not in the spring. Therefore, it is necessary to plan the landing site in advance.

Special attention is paid to the location of the beds. You cannot plant a vegetable in a place where onions or garlic previously grew. Ideal option– if the predecessor of the crop were tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers or early potatoes. Do not plant onions in shaded, unventilated places.

The formation of beds occurs as follows. The soil is carefully dug up and all weeds are removed. Next, the soil is disinfected with a solution copper sulfate. To prepare the composition, you need to stir 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of the substance.

Watering the beds is carried out at the rate of 2 liters per 1 sq. meter. It is recommended to sprinkle a little regular salt on the garden bed - it repels onion fly which can ruin future harvest culture.

The width of the bed can be any. However, the plant loves space, which must be taken into account when planting.

Before planting, the bulbs are kept for 20-30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate. This helps disinfect seeds and increase their resistance to various kinds bacteria.

You can use a special humic fertilizer.

You can also use another method. 2 days before planting, soak the bulbs in a warm (45 degrees) solution of potassium permanganate for 10-15 minutes. Next, peel the seeds down to scales. white, spread on wet sawdust for 1-1.5 days. During this time, small roots appear. Such bulbs are planted immediately. They produce feathers very quickly, and the harvest is distinguished by its a large number and good quality.

For planting, choose only strong, healthy bulbs measuring 1.5-2.0 cm. Larger seeds are prone to bolting, so they are used to produce greens. Dry tops are cut off, which allows the seeds to germinate faster.

Onions are planted in furrows, the distance between which is approximately 20 cm. The distance between sets in one furrow should be 10-15 cm.

Planting time depends on the region and climate. In the middle zone, it is better to plant seedlings in early May. More late boarding reduces yield, and early growth leads to a decrease in head size. In addition, such a vegetable does not last long.

Sevok can be planted in spring or autumn. In both cases, you can get a rich harvest if you plant the crop correctly and care for it.

When planting onions in the spring, further care consists of fertilizing and loosening the beds. If the seedlings are planted in the fall, then it is important to prepare them for wintering. The future harvest depends on the correct implementation of the process.

The crop should be planted in mid-October. After planting, the onions are covered with peat humus mixture. Immediately before freezing, the vegetable is covered with a layer of peat or sawdust 3-4 cm thick. You can also use spruce branches, they also protect the crop well from frost. When snow falls, snow is thrown over the beds.

In spring, water should not be allowed to stagnate in the beds. Therefore, as soon as the snow has melted, it is necessary to remove the sprinkles. Remove it carefully so as not to damage the plantings.

If some seeds do not germinate, then a new set is planted in their place. And, on the contrary, if the seeds are planted too often, they are thinned out.

Caring for sets

To grow a rich harvest of onions, you need to properly care for them. Proper care consists of cultivating the soil, removing weeds and fertilizing with various substances.

It is necessary to organize abundant watering of onions in the first half of summer. On average per 1 sq. meter you need to consume 6-8 liters of water. You need to water the onion carefully so as not to break the feather. Only warm water can be used. Watering with cold water leads to the development of downy mildew. Towards the end of vegetative growth, the amount of watering should be reduced. At this time, so much water is no longer required. Three weeks before harvest, watering is completely stopped.

The beds must be promptly cleared of weeds. It is worth noting that when the onion grows, it needs to be handled very carefully. The culture's feathers are fragile and can break from minor impacts. Weeds need to be removed regularly, as they help retain moisture on the surface. This, in turn, leads to a decrease in resistance to damage by various fungal diseases. In addition, the neck becomes juicy, which negatively affects the storage of the vegetable - the onion begins to rot.

If the bow has given arrows, then they should be broken off. The sooner this is done, the better. Otherwise, the bulb will not grow to normal size, and it will not be stored for long.

Top dressing

Several treatments are carried out throughout the season. They enrich the soil with essential nutrients that promote healthy crop growth. More details about fertilizing are indicated in Table 1.

Table 1. Feeding onions

Some gardeners claim that if the soil was thoroughly prepared before planting, then further cultivation can be abandoned. However, during the growing season, seedlings require nutrients, so you should not refuse to enrich the soil with fertilizers.

Onions are harvested in late July-early August. A vegetable ripens when the growth of new feathers stops and their lodging begins. The bulbs must be dried in the sun for two weeks, then the feathers must be trimmed and kept for a few more days at a temperature of 30-35 degrees. Store the harvest in a dry room in containers with good air exchange.

To obtain a rich onion harvest, you should follow the following recommendations from experienced gardeners:

1. It is better to place beds with onions with beds of carrots. Carrots repel onion flies, and onions, in turn, help get rid of carrot flies.

   

2. Fresh manure and potassium chloride should not be used for fertilizing; they have a negative effect on crop growth.
3. There should be no excess nitrogen fertilizers, they contribute good growth peru, but have a negative effect on the development of the bulb.
4. You should not pick feathers, as this can lead to various infections.
5. If the crop is affected by the onion fly, then it is necessary to treat the beds saline solution. To do this, dissolve 1 glass of ordinary salt in 10 liters of warm water.

   

6. It is not recommended to plant seedlings in the same place every year. This is due to the fact that soil reserves are depleted and the risk of onions being affected by diseases increases.
7. It is better to prepare beds for planting seedlings in the fall.
8. The bulbs will be elongated if planted at greater depths.
9. You cannot plant seedlings in soil that is too soft and thoroughly loosened. The seeds go deep, which affects their growth rate and the size of the bulbs.
10. Do not plant onions in a poorly ventilated place. Stagnation of moisture leads to the development of diseases and infections.

    

11. To get a good harvest, it is recommended to heal the seeds. To do this, the sets should be heated to a temperature of 40 degrees for 8-9 hours before storage.

The quality of the crop is also affected by diseases that can affect crops. These include downy mildew, neck rot and bottom rot. All of them develop as a result of waterlogging of the soil, the use of unhealthy seeds, and planting onions in a poorly ventilated place. Therefore, it is important to monitor quality care behind the plant.

Thus, to obtain a rich onion harvest, it is necessary to properly care for the plant and feed it. The choice of planting site and the use of healthy bulbs is also important. In general, the culture is unpretentious. Caring for it is simple; even an amateur gardener can handle it.

Video - Watering and fertilizing onions

Video - How to grow onions

Onions – traditional vegetable crop, the peculiar pungent taste of which is indispensable in the preparation of salads and appetizers, first and second courses, marinades and pickles, and used in culinary purposes strong golden bulbs from your own garden bed are doubly pleasant. Grow a good harvest of this healthy vegetable– the science is simple, but take a few useful recommendations still worth it.

The most successful technology is considered to be growing onions from sets - small heads obtained by sowing onion seeds (nigella). The advantages of this technique are obvious - onion sets are more resistant to bolting, infections and pest attacks, are distinguished by early ripening and unpretentious maintenance.

When to plant?

Crops of the onion family are characterized by resistance to low temperatures, therefore, they begin to plant seedlings in the ground from the end of April, when top layer soil (10 cm) will warm up to +12° C, and the air temperature will not fall below +5° C. Short-term return frosts do not threaten the growth of onions. Young seedlings easily tolerate temperature drops down to -3° C, but for adult plants such a cold snap is critical - growth and development stop.

Preparing the seat

At the end of autumn, the area for sowing is dug up with a shovel bayonet, clearing weed and filling the soil with rotted peat compost and adding it to every m? landing area 2 tbsp. l. phosphorus-potassium granules (3/4 of the norm). You cannot use fresh manure to fertilize onions - it stimulates intensive development green mass, as a result of which the bulbs do not have time to ripen on time. In the spring, before planting, the surface of the bed is actively loosened and a full dose of nitrogen and the remaining portion of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied. Low beds 45-50 cm wide are poured at a distance of 60-65 cm from each other.

Pre-sowing preparation of material and planting in the ground

To obtain a good harvest of onion sets, you need pre-treatment which is carried out as follows:

• The bulb sets are sorted, sorted by size and discarded dry, diseased specimens.
• To prevent early bolting and the development of fungal diseases, 15 days before the procedure, the material intended for planting is heated for 10 hours at a temperature of +40° C to +45° C. Good heating of the bulbs can be ensured by placing them on a central heating radiator.
• The day before planting, the prepared bulbs are soaked in warm water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. You can also pour hot water immediately before placement in the ground.
• Sevok shows good results when soaked in solution complex fertilizers and after treatment with growth stimulants.
• On last stage preparatory work Carefully trim the bottom and apical “tail” of each onion to speed up germination.

It is customary to plant seedlings in a prepared bed in the following order:

• Planting grooves of shallow depth are formed on the soil surface, leaving row spacing 40 cm wide.
• If the soil is too dry, the furrows are sprayed with settled water before planting.
• The seedlings are planted at intervals of 6-8 cm. The depth of the planting depends on the caliber seed material– the tops of the bulbs should “peek out” a little from the ground.

Onion sets germinate quickly and amicably - after 9-12 days the first green feathers appear.

Watering mode

To grow and develop normally, onions do not need large number water, but in the first month after germination the soil must be constantly moistened. Watering rate is 1-2 times every 15 days, in dry weather - 2 times a week with mandatory loosening of the surface soil layer. During the first 25-30 days of growth, the soil is shed by 10-12 cm, increasing the depth of the spill to 20-25 cm as the bulbs grow. In the last month, when soil moisture has stopped in anticipation of the harvest, they begin the so-called “dry watering”: often loosen the soil, freeing the upper part of the heads from the ground. Contrary to popular belief, onions cannot be planted!

Top dressing

For the first time, onions are fertilized 15-20 days after planting at the stage of leaf growth; The need for feeding is especially great if the feather develops too thin and colorless. During this period, a solution of urea or nitrophoska is used, which is generously poured onto the beds. At the end of the procedure, be sure to irrigate the onion with a watering can or hose with a fine-mesh nozzle to wash away any remaining fertilizer from the feather.

For the second feeding, which is carried out 3 weeks after the first, use phosphorus- potash fertilizers. To prepare a nutrient solution, take 20-30 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium salt.

A third feeding is allowed as needed. In this case, use the same nutrient solution, as in the second procedure.

Tillage

Despite its unpretentiousness, onions place high demands on the condition of the soil, so the surface of the bed must be regularly loosened by hand, acting extremely carefully so as not to damage the sensitive fibrous soil. root system bulbs located at a depth of 10-30 cm. In addition, onions do not accept the bed being clogged with grass. As weeds grow, they prevent moisture from evaporating, which leads to the development of infections and root rot. Bulbs grown in a clogged bed form an excessively thick neck, resulting in a shorter shelf life of the crop.

Pest control and disease protection

Among the diseases, the greatest danger to onions are fungal infections such as powdery mildew and root rot. Planting pests are often attacked by onion flies, thrips, and nematodes. Rescue measures are taken at the first visible signs damage (discoloration, wilting and curling of feathers, formation of spots and light spots), using a mixture of biofungicides and bioinsecticides that are safe for human and animal health. The solution is prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to use aggressive agrochemicals to protect onions.

Possible cultivation difficulties

Growing onions from sets is not too difficult, but it is not always possible to avoid difficulties. As a rule, one or another problem can be solved in advance by adjusting the care regimen.

• Early dying of bulbs - this problem is usually observed due to strong thickening of plantings without subsequent thinning, untimely impregnation and insufficient watering. As a result of violations of agricultural technology, too small, incompletely formed bulbs stop growing.
• Premature yellowing of leaves - observed with high planting density and lack of moisture, so the ripening of the bulbs occurs ahead of schedule(even for heads whose diameter does not exceed 5-8 mm). In addition, yellowed leaves may be a sign of an onion fly attack on the plantings.
• Incomplete ripening of the bulb is a common phenomenon that occurs due to high concentration nitrogen in the soil. To accelerate ripening, potassium fertilizers are added to the soil in mid-July at the rate of 30-40 g/m?.
• Bow shooting is a common problem when using store-bought sets. To avoid this, the material is kept at a temperature from +25° C to +30° C for 15-20 days before planting.

The problems listed above will not arise if agrotechnical standards are strictly observed.

Harvest and storage

The onion harvest is harvested in the second half of August, choosing a dry, fine day for this. Unripe bulbs dug up in the rain and saturated with moisture will not be stored for long. For the same reason, 25-30 days before harvesting, watering the onion beds is completely canceled. Signs of consumer ripeness and readiness of the vegetable for harvesting are the cessation of growth and massive lodging of the feather. You cannot hesitate at this stage - the onion may begin to grow again.

The bulbs are carefully dug up and pulled out of the ground, after which, if the weather is clear and warm, they are laid out to dry on the vacant bed - exposure to sunlight is effective prevention dangerous infections. In case of bad weather, onions are dried indoors for 10 days at a temperature from +25° C to +35° C. To avoid the development of neck rot and downy mildew, in the last 10-12 hours of drying it is recommended, if possible, to increase the temperature to +45° C.

The leaves of dried bulbs are cut off, leaving a “tail” about 3-4 cm long. For storage, healthy, mature specimens without putrefactive spots and mechanical damage are selected, which are laid out in baskets, boxes, nets and kept in a dry, cool, well-ventilated place. place.

When we plant any vegetables or something else edible on our plot, then our main task get decent harvest. And such a harvest is often characterized by large fruits, vegetables, tubers and other similar things. Of course, everything is good only in moderation, and not always large fruits give us what we wanted. For example, quite often large potatoes it can be empty inside, and this, of course, is very bad. But today we will talk about onions. When we plant it, we always expect that it will eventually grow large. After all, few people like to collect onions, which in the end turned out to be slightly larger than the sets. This is not why we sowed it.

Large onion. The main secrets of its cultivation

The first moment, which ultimately determines the final result, is planting the onion. By the way, you can plant it as sets not only in the spring, but also before winter (it’s written about this here). When to do this is up to you. The main thing to remember is that any planting involves first preparing the soil appropriately. As for onions, you should not plant them in clay soil. He doesn't like it. If you have nothing to choose from, and the soil on your site is exactly like this, then its composition will need to be adjusted. To do this, sand or peat is simply poured on top of the bed, and these components are mixed well with the main composition of the soil. In addition, the soil should also be slightly alkaline. If you have it acidic (acidity can be determined in this way), then in the fall, you will definitely need to add dolomite flour to it. It will help to significantly deoxidize the soil.

Now, as for the sevka. It also needs to be prepared for planting. It is best to “bathe” it a little in potassium permanganate (we make a solution and lower it there for 10 or 20 minutes). This way you can disinfect all planting material, which will further protect your onions from certain diseases. In addition, you can speed up the germination of onions. To do this, the top of the set will need to be slightly trimmed. When you plant it, in a row, you will need to sprinkle a little ordinary salt. It will help repel the onion fly from your beds. In addition to salt, carrots can also repel this pest from onions. Therefore, always plant both of these vegetables side by side. Onions are also useful for carrots, because they also have their own fly, the carrot fly, which already harms carrots. Onions, on the other hand, prevent the carrot fly from getting closer to its favorite treat. So the benefit here is mutually beneficial.

How and what to feed?

It's no secret that proper feeding significantly affects the size of the fruits of any crop. For onions, fertilizing is also very important. It is done not once, but three times. For the first time, it is necessary to feed the onion when only 2 leaves appear on it. Slurry is well suited for this, which you will need to prepare. This is done simply - a liter of manure is usually simply diluted in a bucket of water. In addition to slurry, chicken droppings also work well. Its concentration will be lower - 1 glass of such droppings per whole bucket of water. To both options for this feeding you will need to add a few more components. This is superphosphate (30-40 grams), which must first be dissolved in warm water, and also ash (pour a glass).

Don’t forget to feed the onions the second time after 2 weeks. This is done again with the same superphosphate (30 grams), but with urea (10 grams) and potassium (5 grams). This calculation is also given for a bucket of water.

The end of June will come and you will need to remember about feeding again. This should be done with exactly the same composition as fertilizing number 2. But, if you are a little late and will be fertilizing somewhere in early July, then use nitrogen instead of urea. But you need to be careful with nitrogen fertilizers. If you “overdo it” with them, you will get a good feather, but the bulbs themselves will suffer significantly. Potassium sulfate is best option of all potassium fertilizers, because onions need sulfur. Potassium largely determines the overall safety of the bulbs. It is also present in ash.

Fresh manure, which many people add in the spring, cannot be used to feed onions. The same applies completely to potassium chloride (you can add it, but only do this in the fall). But phosphorus should not be neglected, because it largely determines the size of the bulbs.

How to dry and store onions correctly?

When you get a good one, large onion that's not all. If it cannot be preserved, then why did you grow it at all? And in order for it to be stored for a long time, it must, first of all, be removed from the garden on time. When the first August rains come, there should no longer be any onions in your beds. So, at the end of July you will need to remove it all. If you forget about it, it can get seriously wet, and such a bow is unlikely to be preserved for a long time.

Removing onions on time is also not a guarantee long-term storage. The main thing is to dry it thoroughly after that. This can best be done in the attic, if it is warm enough there and the wind is still blowing. When the onion dries well, all the dirt is removed from it and the dried tops are cut off. But they don’t cut it off at the root, but always leave 8-10 centimeters.

When you put the onion away for storage, do not forget to sort it out sometimes. After all, it’s enough for one onion to deteriorate and then everything will start to deteriorate. Your task is to prevent this from happening.

In this video they will show you another way to get large onions. How to do this? Look.

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