You can propagate by cuttings in spring and early summer. Adenium grown from cuttings blooms already in the year of planting, completely preserving the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.
Propagation of adenium by cuttings
Preparation of planting material
2-3 days before cutting the cuttings, adenium is watered to ensure good turgor. It is preferable to choose leafy pieces, leaf blades must ensure photosynthesis and respiration of the plant. Positive experience has been accumulated in growing adenium from cuttings on which all the leaves have been removed or partially cut off.
1. The shoot segments should be of sufficient length, approximately 10-15 cm, about 1 cm in diameter.
4. Make several cuts on the cut to increase the area and form more roots.
5. 2 hours planting material kept in a solution of fungicide against bacterial infections and fungal diseases, sections are treated with Kornevin.
6. Dry the cuttings for 2 days to one week, this reduces the likelihood of rotting.
Soil preparation
It is recommended to use perlite with the addition of peat or coconut fibers as soil. You can also take a mixture of sand with vermiculite, with an admixture of perlite and charcoal. A little pumice is allowed as an additive. The soil structure should be loose, breathable, evenly moist, but not too soggy.
The temperature during planting should correspond to +25 o C...+35 o C. The plant needs bright, diffused sunlight and bottom heating. To speed up the process of formation of the root system, the cuttings are placed in a greenhouse or simply closed plastic film, periodically ventilating.
Landing
- The cutting is placed in the ground, deepening it by 2-3 cm.
- Water moderately for 4-6 weeks.
- When new leaves appear, you can assume that the plant has taken root and remove the film.
Disadvantages of the method
Adenium grown from cuttings does not develop a caudex. There is evidence that caudex is still formed, but does not achieve the required decorative effect. Often with this method of propagation one has to deal with rotting of the cuttings. The cause of the phenomenon is considered to be bacterial or fungal infection resulting from waterlogging of the substrate.
All work must be carried out with gloves, adenium juice is highly poisonous.
One of the few ways to obtain a specific plant from adeniums is by rooting cuttings. This is a rather complex process that is not suitable for everyone and not always. The fact is that cuttings of these plants easily rot at home. To avoid this problem, collectors use a variety of methods.
A small list of advice that is given on various forums and their analysis.
1.
Dry the cuttings for a week.
Suitable only for thick and old cuttings that have become woody. How effective is this method?
Forum of flower growers Frau Flora
Personally, according to my results, the same number of cuttings rotted after drying as without it. So I reject this option.
2.
Add coal to the water.
Ordinary rooting, when fresh cuttings are placed in water so that they do not touch the bottom. At the same time, a couple of tablets are thrown into the glass activated carbon. I haven’t personally tried this option, but there are a lot of good reviews.
3.
Wick rooting.
My favorite way. Its essence is to use a sterile substrate, which is constantly moistened with the help of a wick. The principle of such pots can be seen on the forums of violet lovers - many collectors water their plants this way. Lechuza Pon pots work on the same principle.
4.
Rooting on a cotton pad.
A relatively little-known method. Its essence is that you take a large disposable glass and put 2-3 cotton pads on the bottom. They are well moistened by stimulants, for example, HB-101. Then the cutting is placed on the disks, and a bag is put on top.
5.
Air layering.
This is still a little popular method, perhaps because pruning is most often done to shape the plant and keep it for a long time a long branch with moss wrapped around it is difficult and not aesthetically pleasing.
The essence of the method is as follows: a part of the branch is cut at the required distance. In this case, you need to cut the bark in a circle. Then we take sphagnum moss and wrap it around the bottom of the wound. Some wrap the cut itself. The moss is moistened with water, then a bag is put on top. After some time, the cutting, experiencing a lack of nutrition, begins to grow roots. Actually, many of us have noticed at least once that some adeniums can produce small shoots along the entire length of the trunk, and these are not the buds of new branches, these are aerial roots.
Whatever method you choose (except for air layering), there are always some rules that can increase the chance of rooting:
1. Use heating or place in the warmest possible place. Heating is better - the water or substrate should be warm.
2. Carry out rooting in the spring and summer. Sunlight reduces the risk of rot from fungi and bacteria. It increases plant immunity and activates the growth process.
3. Cut cuttings no shorter than 15 cm if we are talking about varietal grafting. They take root very poorly.
There is a big difference between rooting cuttings from adapted plants, healthy seedlings, rotten seedlings, from unadapted grafts or grafts that have begun to rot.
What is it?
Alas. But if you have an unadapted graft, or a graft that is rotten, almost 100% of the cuttings will not take root. The only chance to save such varieties is to re-graft.
If a cutting from a rotten seedling takes root, it must be dried and, if possible, treated with fungicides.
If the cutting is from a healthy seedling, there is a 98% chance that it will take root without any problems. In such plants, even 5-centimeter pieces manage to produce roots.
If we are talking about a healthy, adapted graft, try the air layering method. If it does not fit, then try to cut the cutting at least 15 cm, and it is better to take the woody parts. You don’t have to dry the branch, but be sure to heat it up and let it good quantity sun.
Active growing season – best time for cuttings.
For rooting, cuttings 10-15 cm in length with a diameter of at least 1 cm are selected.
Somewhere 2 days before cuttings, the plant must be watered to obtain good turgor.
A cross-shaped notch on the cut of the cutting will help increase the area where roots form.
Before rooting, the cutting should be kept for about 2 hours in a fungicide solution, for example, “Fitosporin”, the cut site and the bottom of the cutting (1-2 cm) are powdered with “Kornevin” and dried for a week.
You can root in perlite by deepening the cuttings by 2-3 cm, but it is important to prevent the perlite from drying out or flooding.
Rooting in peat soil with perlite or in coconut fiber with perlite in a 50:50 ratio is also successful.
The rooting process usually lasts about a month.
Adenium obtained from cuttings does not have a caudex, like adenium obtained from seeds. But, for variety, you can experiment, for example, use the “braiding” technique for young cuttings (follow the link “braiding”).
The result may exceed all your expectations!
Braiding
Adenium is so unique and unusual flower that a flight of fancy on how to make it even more beautiful can lead you into such a jungle that it will be difficult to unravel.
What does this mean? After trimming the branches of the seedlings, the cuttings take root in pots, which are sometimes required large number. If you want to experiment and decorate the flower in some unusual way, try braiding the adenimum’s hair: the plant will be pleasing to the eye, and fewer pots will be needed.
To do this, take, for example, three cuttings about 20 cm in size and plant them together in one pot, tie them at the bottom with Fum plumbing tape.
To make the branches bend better, do not water the cuttings for about 5 days. After you have tied the bottom of the cuttings, carefully intertwine the branches, imitating a braid. The structure at the top also needs to be tied and after that the adenium can be planted in the ground.
And if you use cuttings from different varieties, then you can achieve an amazing result - over time you will get a multi-colored bouquet.
Propagation using seeds
Adenium is a plant that natural conditions, has a powerful unusual caudex. Using cuttings as a propagation method, you are unlikely to be able to get adenium with a beautiful caudex, but if you grow adenium using seeds, you can get houseplant, whose caudex will be powerful and beautiful.
Adenium seeds have good germination (80-100%), but they lose it just as quickly (after 6-8 months).
The best time to sow seeds is from mid-spring to early autumn. This is due to the fact that during this period there is no need to worry about temperature and light modes Moreover, by the beginning of winter the seedlings will have already grown up.
Before sowing, you can place the seeds in warm water for 2-4 hours, or wrap them in a wet napkin placed in cellophane bag which will retain moisture. At a temperature not lower than +24 °C and high humidity within 10 days you will receive shoots. You don’t have to soak the seeds at all.
To germinate seeds, a moisture and permeable substrate is taken. When sowing directly, it should be slightly moist, its pH=7. As a substrate you can use the following mixture: 50% perlite, 50% peat moss, or buy ready mixture for cacti.
The seeds should simply be spread over the surface of the mixture and covered with transparent cling film, but do not forget to ventilate the greenhouse.
Until the first leaf appears, keep the seedlings at a temperature of +26-33 C, protect them from drafts, direct sunlight and from dropping the room temperature below +18 C. As soon as the first pair of leaves appears, begin to accustom the adenium to the sun. In the phase of 2-4 leaves, plant them in separate containers. For 2-3 month old babies, pots with a diameter of 5-6 cm are suitable.
Reproduction of adenium: CUTTINGS
During the first year, young plants can be replanted 2-3 times.
When can adenium grown from seeds bloom?
As a rule, the first flowering occurs 2 years after sowing, it all depends on the growing conditions: if the plant stands in a dark, cool place, flowering will not occur, because Such conditions are not acceptable for maintaining adenium, not only during the flowering period.
Besides this, different types adeniums bloom in different ways. Adenium obesum blooms before everyone else.
If you have adenium arabicum at home, then expect it to bloom in more mature age, although, as for this particular type of plant, it is grown not for the sake of flowering, but for the sake of the caudex.
And, of course, such factors as what kind of source material was taken for pollination: if early flowering adeniums were taken for pollination, then the seedling obtained as a result of seed pollination will bloom early.
When buds appear, adenium should not be moved somewhere, because flowering indicates that the plant is happy where it is. The only thing you should do is increase watering for bud growth.
The buds ripen for about a month.
Adenium: cultivation and reproduction
Adenium belongs to the extensive Kutrov family. IN room conditions Adenium is a compact, beautifully flowering tree.
The most common in floriculture Adenium thick, or Adenium obese(Adenium obesum) with flowers of rich crimson or pink color - with a lighter center and long stamens extending beyond the edges of the petals.
There are elegant adenium hybrids with white, cream, yellow and even variegated flowers, but they are still rarely found in amateur collections.
Thick, knobby shoots of adeniums in summer are completely covered with large (up to 10-15 cm in length) funnel-shaped flowers.
Flowers appear on both old and new shoots of adenium, collected in brushes. At favorable conditions Adenium flowers do not fade within 7-10 days.
The flowering period of adeniums usually lasts from May to September, and their flowering largely depends on weather conditions- on temperature and number of sunny days.
Due to their natural compact growth habit, young adeniums look a bit like a skillfully shaped bonsai.
Even in winter, non-flowering and weakly leafy specimens of adeniums look very attractive. Especially if these adeniums were grown from seeds and have a characteristic thickening at the base of the trunk - the caudex.
Favorable conditions for keeping adenium in the house
Adeniums develop well with normal room temperature. This plant loves light and sunny place position throughout the year.
In summer adeniums for abundant and long flowering requires as much direct sunlight- then especially many flowers are formed, they are large and brightly colored. Plants can be exposed to direct sun without damage, even in hot glazed loggias.
In winter, during the dormant period, it is possible to keep adenium in partial shade. But it is advisable that the temperature does not rise above 15 degrees. This will allow the plant to rest well and gain strength for the next season.
The rest period in adeniums is precisely the case when a decrease in temperature is not necessary; especially if the plants are in the most illuminated place.
During the warm period of the year, from mid-June to August, adeniums can be taken out fresh air(in the garden, on open balcony etc.). You just have to provide shelter for the plants in case of prolonged rains to avoid waterlogging of the substrate.
Adenium - no desert cactus, he cannot do without water at all long time.
Adeniums are watered sufficiently in summer and sparingly in winter.
The watering schedule for adenium largely depends on the location, temperature, size and type of pot, and the condition of the plant itself. Anyway, top layer The soil must dry out between waterings, even in summer.
The remaining water after irrigation that has leaked through drainage holes in a pot with adenium, immediately drained from the pan.
If the plant has dropped its leaves in the fall, then it is better to water the adenium only when its stems lose a little turgor, that is, slightly wither.
In winter, when adeniums go into a period of deep dormancy, many plants lose their leaves. During this period, their watering should be very careful and controlled. A lack of water leads to much less dangerous consequences for adenium than its excess.
Air humidity for adeniums needs normal room humidity; no spraying required. High humidity air is undesirable, especially in combination with low plant temperatures.
You should also try to avoid getting drops of water on the adenium flowers - this can cause them to become deformed and get burned when exposed to direct sunlight.
Adeniums grow better in wide, shallow bowls - this way the plant is less likely to be flooded, and it looks more attractive.
The soil in a pot with adenium should be permeable. To plant adenium, you can use soil for cacti, adding perlite and fine expanded clay (in a ratio of 4:1:1); expanded clay can be replaced with broken bricks.
It is desirable to have a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot with adenium.
Adeniums are replanted as needed, usually once every 2-3 years, without increasing the volume of the new pot too much.
Adeniums bloom profusely only when they are completely entangled earthen lump roots, therefore frequent transfers should be avoided.
Need for nutrients in adeniums it is the same as in most succulent plants. During the active growing season, they are fed once a week with fertilizer for cacti in the doses recommended on the package; or ordinary complex fertilizer, but at half the concentration.
In winter, adeniums are not fed.
There are different opinions about the advisability of formative pruning of adenium in indoor conditions.
Typically, pruning of adenium is required only in exceptional cases: if you need to use cuttings for propagation or remove damaged shoots.
After drastic spring pruning, adeniums often bloom sparingly or do not bloom at all.
Growing adenium from cuttings
This is explained by the fact that most of the flower buds of adenium are formed in the fall, so the shoots of the previous year bloom first (and most abundantly).
New branches of adenium that have grown after pruning simply do not have time to bloom in the short summer.
This is true for plants that are kept in normal indoor conditions without the use of additional lighting.
Methods of propagation of adenium
Adeniums are propagated by seeds, cuttings and grafting onto oleander or another adenium - this is how many sterile hybrids are propagated.
Adenium seeds are difficult to get (buy), and even more difficult to get them from your plants yourself. But precisely when seed method reproduction of adeniums is obtained interesting plants with a caudex - an attractive thickening at the bottom of the trunk.
In the photo: adenium seedling with caudex; young adeniums with pink and red flowers bloom
In indoor conditions, propagation by cuttings is optimal for adeniums. In this case, grown adeniums do not have a caudex, and the structure of their crown resembles some types of Crassula.
After cutting, adenium cuttings are dried for a couple of days. Then they are planted in a slightly damp lung sandy soil. Place the planted cuttings in a sunny place and occasionally moisten them until they take root.
The temperature of rooting plants during this period should be at least 22 degrees.
Rooting of adenium cuttings usually occurs within a month. But if conditions are unfavorable, then the rooting period often extends to two to three months.
Possible problems when growing adenium
Adenium is rarely affected by pests.
Among the diseases, adeniums are most often susceptible to all kinds of rot that occurs as a result of excessive watering.
With a lack of light, adenium shoots become elongated, and its flowering becomes very sparse and short-lived; pale flowers.
An excess of fertilizers (especially nitrogen) leads to a decrease in immunity and “obesity” of the plant - adenium appears large leaves and shoots to the detriment of flowering.
If the plant spent the winter in an insufficiently bright room, then in the spring it is necessary to gradually accustom the adenium to direct sun. Otherwise, its leaves and stems become covered with red spots (burn light form), which spoil appearance adenium and then do not go away for a very long time.
Adenium juice is very poisonous. Therefore, you need to take basic precautions when handling it. After any kind of manipulation, be it pruning adenium shoots or removing faded flowers, you should thoroughly wash your hands with soap. You need to be especially careful when growing adenium if there are small children or animals in the house.
Mikhail Makeev /Beast/
TopTropicals.com
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Adenium is a small shrub or small tree native to South and Central Africa, Saudi Arabia, Oman and Yemen, where it grows in deserts. For its extraordinary beauty, adenium is often called the “desert rose,” although it white and pink flowers They don't look much like roses. It is notable for the fact that at the base of the trunk it has a characteristic thickening (caudex). Adenium blooms almost all year round, and because of its caudex it is often perceived as an indoor bonsai. This plant appeared in our country not long ago, so scammers of all stripes, taking advantage of human ignorance, offer to purchase adenium with flowers of the most unimaginable colors and their combinations.
But in nature and in culture there are no adeniums with blue, blue, violet, black, orange and crimson flowers and their variations. Therefore, you should not trust sites offering adenium seeds, which will delight you with such unusual flowers. All photographs of all kinds of blue, black and other unusual adenium colors presented to the public are nothing more than painstaking work with Photoshop. Such masters “grow” new varieties of adenium without leaving their computer.
Adenium care
Adenium is a fairly easy plant to grow. Coming from hot countries, he feels good in a city apartment.
Choosing a location. Adenium loves straight lines sun rays. Without sufficient illumination, its shoots become elongated, and flowering does not occur at all, or is sparse. The plant can be safely placed on the windowsill of a south or south-east window. Adenium should spend the winter in a slightly darkened place.
Choosing a pot. Adenium has one characteristic feature: in nature it is quite large plant, and also grows quite quickly in indoor conditions. Of course, it will not reach the same size as in its homeland in indoor conditions, but it is still necessary to restrain its growth. This can be done using correct selection pot. The dishes for adenium should not be too large, it is better that they are shallow but wide. The width of the pot should be equal to twice the diameter of the caudex. If the task is to form a beautiful caudex, then the best solution would be to grow adenium in a wide bowl. It is better to use plastic containers than clay ones, as the root system plants can easily break a clay pot.
Soil. There are many “recipes” for cooking soil mixture for adenium. But the main thing that such a mixture should provide is good permeability to air and moisture. You can simply purchase a substrate for succulents and add some perlite and vermiculite to it.
Watering. In the sultry summer days When the air temperature is above 30 °C, the plant needs daily watering. In cloudy, rainy weather, adenium should be watered sparingly. Young growing adeniums also need abundant watering. By winter, watering is limited to once every 7 to 10 days.
Humidity . The plant does not need spraying and does well in normal humidity conditions.
Temperature . Adenium grows well indoors, even in the hottest summer. With the onset of autumn, when the air temperature drops to 16 - 20 °C, the plant enters a dormant period, partially or completely shedding its leaves. In winter, the air temperature in the room where the adenium is located should not be lower than 10 °C.
Trimming. To enhance branching and better flowering can be produced spring pruning adenium every 2 years.
Reproduction of adenium
Most often, adenium is propagated by seeds, cuttings and air layering.
Adenium is propagated by seeds in the spring. Light, moisture- and breathable soil is prepared. Before sowing, seeds should be soaked in warm water for 2 - 4 hours. Seeds are sown on the surface of the soil and covered with a transparent film. From time to time you need to lift the film for ventilation. For good germination and development of seeds, the air temperature must be maintained at 24 - 32 °C.
Propagation by cuttings differs in that young plants most likely will not have a caudex, or it is formed already in adulthood. Shoots 10 cm long are suitable for cuttings, possibly with leaves. Cuttings are carried out in spring or summer. The stalk is cut sharp knife and dried for 1 - 2 days in a dark place. After this, it needs to be planted in moist, light, breathable soil, covered with a jar. Temperature conditions are the same as for adult specimens. When young leaves appear on the cuttings, the jar will need to be removed.
Reproduction by air layering will preserve all the qualities of the mother plant, but the young plant will lack a caudex. To propagate by layering, you need to select a shoot at least 2 cm in diameter and make a circular cut with a clean, sharp knife. After 6 - 24 hours, you need to treat the cut with a liquid to stimulate the formation of roots and wrap it with sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. It all needs to be wrapped on top with transparent film or foil. Moss or coconut fiber must be moistened regularly, then roots will form within a month. Young plant Carefully disconnect from the mother, slightly drying the cut area, and plant it in a separate container with a support.
Adenium diseases
Caudex rot is a disease that affects both old and young plants due to excess moisture in the soil. A sign of the disease is a sharp yellowing and subsequent loss of lower leaves, as well as the softness of the caudex when pressed with a finger in the area of its contact with the soil. To prevent this, it is necessary to limit watering during cloudy weather, and also reduce it in winter.
Warning! All parts of the plant are poisonous; gloves must be used when transplanting and propagating adenium.
In general, adenium is very beautiful, exotic plant, low maintenance.
Succulents can be more than just nondescript “fat creatures” - residents of rocky gardens. Some of them are stunningly beautiful plants with bright, expressive flowers. Place a fairy-tale tree on your windowsill, covered with many small pink flowers, - adenium. Adenium is also called Desert Rose or Star of Sabinia, Impala Lily.
Little known until recently, adenium has gained wide popularity among gardeners due to its exotic species and ease of maintenance. Delicate, delightful flowers covering the crown of a tree can evoke admiration from anyone.
About 50 species of Adenium are known, in nature there are specimens up to several meters in height! IN indoor floriculture One common species is adenium obesum, very similar to bonsai. However, you don’t have to tinker with adenium much: the tree itself takes on bizarre shapes that are so attractive to the eye, only requiring a little pruning and pinching.
How to care for adenium at home
Caring for adenium is as simple as possible, so you don’t need to remember any tricks. A novice florist or an experienced lover, everyone will appreciate the unpretentiousness of the flower. The main features of agricultural technology are easy to remember; we will tell you more about them in the article.
Lighting
Adenium loves a lot of light, so south windows - best place where you can stay exotic. Only with the onset of hot summer, when the rays of the sun become especially hot, is the plant transferred to eastern or western windowsills so that burns do not appear on the trunk and leaves.
Temperature
On warm summer days, when the air temperature reaches 25-30°C, adenium feels great. With the onset of autumn, when the air temperature drops and the days shorten, the plant slowly enters a dormant period. Therefore, with the arrival of winter, it is advisable to maintain this condition by identifying adenium in cool room, where it will be about 12-15°C warm, but not lower than +10°C.
How to water adenium
Considering that adenium is a succulent, you should not be overzealous with watering. The plant tends to accumulate moisture in its fleshy tissues. Therefore, let the top layer of the earth dry out a little so that the adenium feels comfortable. This watering regime will especially appeal to lazy gardeners who remember the existence of green pets only on weekends.
In summer, when the plant is actively growing green mass, watering can be done more often, but little by little, so as not to over-moisten the soil. During the dormant period, watering is kept to a minimum, moistening only occasionally to prevent the soil in the pot from drying out.
Humidity
The air humidity in the apartment is quite sufficient for the active development of adenium. In the spring, before flowering begins, it responds well to spraying from a spray bottle. When flower stalks appear, spraying should be stopped: this can provoke the appearance of rot, so it is better not to risk it.
How to fertilize adeniums for better growth
Sold in a flower shop complex fertilizer for succulents. It is advisable to purchase it and fertilize the plant in the spring, during active growth. The main elements that a plant needs for growth and development, establishment flower buds, - phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. The main thing is not to overdo it and follow the recommendations specified by the drug manufacturer.
Remember, “overfed” succulents are able to increase the mass of the trunk, reducing the volume and duration of flowering. Therefore, feed no more than twice a month, and strictly according to the instructions.
Soil for adenium
In order not to put yourself and the plant through tests, it is best to purchase ready soil for , having the necessary characteristics according to physical and chemical parameters. The soil should be loose, well-drained and nutritious.
Why do adenium leaves turn yellow?
If the lower leaves turn yellow in autumn or winter, there is no need to worry: this is a sign that the succulent has entered a dormant period and is shedding excess leaves to make it easier to endure hibernation.
If the problem is noticed in spring and summer, when the plant is in the active phase, pay attention to the conditions under which it is kept. This may be a sign of hypothermia, exposure to a draft, or insufficient watering.
Adenium transplant
Young adeniums are actively growing and quickly exhaust their reserves. nutrients in the ground, occupy the entire area allotted to them, so that the roots become crowded. Therefore, in the spring, from March to May, succulents are transplanted into a larger pot, trying to carefully partially replace the soil.
By the way, do not forget that succulents should not be watered after transplantation. Wait a couple of days, let damaged roots When the wounds dry out and heal, then carefully, little by little, resume watering.
Pinching, trimming and forming the adenium caudex video
If you want to get a unique branchy crown of a mini-tree, don’t be lazy about pinching and pruning it. Pruning is aimed at forming the crown and stimulating branching. Pinching has the same goals; it is carried out on seedlings obtained from seeds.
How to form roots in adenium
Keep in mind that the roots of adenium grow strongly, which is why the plant is gradually displaced above the surface of the earth. If the roots have risen more than 1-2 cm above the ground, they need to be trimmed urgently. To do this, the plant is freed from the pot, the lateral roots are cut off, and transplanted into a deeper pot.
The video will tell you about pinching seedlings and cutting the roots of adenium:
Reproduction of adenium at home
Adenium can be propagated by seeds and cuttings.
Adenium from seeds
You can plant one at a time in peat cups or even soak them in gauze until they sprout, and then carefully plant them in a nutritious soil mixture.
Young seedlings are actively growing and respond well to watering and full lighting. The air temperature should not fall below 14°C or rise above 30°C.
When the plants become crowded in temporary cups, they are carefully transplanted along with a lump of earth onto permanent place, shortening the central root to encourage the development of lateral roots.
How to grow adenium from seeds video:
The advantage of growing adenium from seeds is that adult plants will have a caudex - a characteristic thickening at the bottom of the central trunk of the tree. Seedlings obtained by cuttings do not have such thickening.
Propagation of adenium by cuttings
The fastest and easiest way to propagate adenium is to root trees cut during pruning apical cuttings 10-15 cm long.
Before planting, sprinkle with crushed powder at the cutting site. charcoal(or activated) and let dry until a thin, dry skin forms. After this, they are planted in slightly moist soil, but do not water. Only after two or three days will it be possible to carefully moisten the soil occasionally with a spray bottle and resume watering only after noticing the growth of new shoots.
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Maria Yastrebova 07/14/2014 | 4230
Adenium - desert rose, the most beautiful flower for home greenhouses. That's all today more people are keen on breeding this unusual representative of the flora of the African continent. How can it be propagated?
This one is amazing unpretentious flower amazes abundant flowering And minimum requirements, both to the soil and to the conditions of its maintenance. The main method of its propagation is by seeds. However, due to the fact that this method very labor-intensive (it can take 3 months from planting to seed germination), more and more gardeners are propagating adenium by cuttings.
Many people prefer to buy ready-made adenium cuttings in flower shops, but you shouldn't do this. Adenium – very finicky plant. Several basic conditions must be met before taking its cuttings. The most important condition is that the plant must be located in active growth phase. Typically this period falls between April and October. Before you begin the cutting procedure, you need to prepare the plant for this procedure: stop watering in advance (2-3 weeks).
Selection of cuttings
Another condition for obtaining high-quality cuttings is that the adenium cuttings must be cut from a plant no younger than three years of age. The fact is that it is the adult branch that is ready to give roots and grow into decent plant. The cuttings must have leaves that do not have physiological or other defects. The fact is that flower greenhouses very often, giving presentation adeniums, defective branches are cut off and then cuttings are made from them and then sold. Most often, such plants, after the effects of growth and flowering stimulants have ended, wither, get sick a lot and even die. Only branches with full leaves of even color should be taken for cuttings; the diameter of the branch for cuttings should be at least 10-12 mm.
Cutting technology
Adenium cuttings after cutting
After cutting, each cutting should be placed in a 1-3% Epin solution. This excellent remedy with the addition of monoauxins for enhanced root formation. The cuttings must be in the solution for at least 5 hours, while the air temperature should be 28-30°C and humidity 75%. This is very difficult to observe on a production scale, and therefore in the store you can often find diseased adenium bushes, oversaturated with various biological stimulants.
How to preserve the varietal identity of adenium?
And finally, the most important argument in favor of choosing independent adenium cuttings is that it is often impossible to preserve on an industrial scale varietal characteristics adeniums. It happens that after the first flowering it becomes clear that the purchased plant is not the variety declared by the seller. Of course, this fact is not so important for those who have just started breeding these flowers, but for those who have decided to collect a collection of adeniums, it is very important!
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