How to water garlic from yellow leaves. What to do if the garlic in the garden turns yellow in the spring

A garden in which a person independently grows vegetables for himself and his family is undoubtedly an important and useful undertaking. But a lot of unforeseen problems may arise in the process. This article talks about what to do if the garlic in the garden turns yellow in the spring. How to feed or treat the plant.

Most often, yellowing of the leaves indicates violations of the agricultural technology of growing the plant. But the reasons can be completely different and need to be examined in each specific case separately.

Garlic leaves begin to turn yellow at the tips (chlorosis). This yellowness gradually spreads to the entire leaf, which leads to its complete drying out or slow growth. Accordingly, the bulbs do not grow required sizes, or even rot altogether.

Why does garlic turn yellow in spring?

Knowing the cause of this phenomenon and the ability to correctly identify it will help every gardener cope with the problem and prevent it from happening again in the future. There are five main reasons why garlic turns yellow:

1. severe frosts and frosts,
2. poor quality seed material,
3. wrong landing time,
4. diseases and pests,
5. excess or lack of moisture in the soil,
6. increased soil acidity,
7. lack of micro- and macroelements in the soil.

Now let's talk about each in more detail and see what to do if the garlic turns yellow in the spring?

Severe frosts and frosts

This the most common reason. There may be two options why winter garlic turned yellow:

Imprisoned too early

Planting timing is extremely important for any plant, and garlic is no exception. If you plant it too early, it may not only have time to take root, but also sprout its first leaves.

In the spring, this will certainly lead to yellowing of the leaves, since it will not be difficult for frost to damage them.

• For the middle band optimal time when can you drop off winter garlic- it's October.
• For the southern regions it is better to choose November.

Severe frosts in winter or frosts in early spring

This option does not depend on the human factor, since weather it is almost impossible to influence. As in the previous case, the first leaves that appeared winter garlic may fall under spring frosts, resulting in their yellowing.

Severe frosts in winter can cause not only yellowing, but also complete freezing of the roots.

Not planted deep enough. This is one of common reasons why garlic leaves are already growing yellow or with yellow tips, and is also associated with frost. Recommended planting depth: 4-6 cm.

To avoid these consequences, garlic planted before winter should be mulched with leaves or dry grass. Then, under a thick layer of mulch, frost will not be so terrible for garlic.

If you cannot avoid the negative effects of frost, you will have to use biological products that can help garlic cope with the consequences.

Excess or lack of moisture in the soil

Yellowing of the upper and lower leaves of garlic is often observed in dry and rainy weather. This is due to a violation of the air-water balance.

Regular but moderate watering is important for garlic. Especially in May and June.

It is necessary to loosen the soil to allow air to reach the roots of the plant.

remember, that overwatering garlic is more difficult to tolerate than insufficient. Therefore, mulched beds should be watered as needed.

• In the spring months, in normal weather, water two to three times a month.
• In dry conditions - correspondingly more often.
• In case of frequent rains, it is better to avoid watering altogether.

Completely stop watering garlic before harvesting it – a month before.

Diseases and pests

Garlic is a crop that is often used to control diseases or pests, but also he has his own "enemies". They also often cause its leaves to turn yellow due to the damage they cause.

Main diseases and pests of garlic:

• downy mildew;
• rot;
• rust;
• mold;
• nematode;
• mite;
• onion fly;
• mole.

To determine what the main reason is, you need to dig up a head of garlic with yellowed leaves. See if there is rot at the base of the bulb, rotten roots, mold, larvae, or a pink coating on its lower part. If there is any of the above, you have found the cause of the yellowing.

How to process garlic in spring?

Here it is necessary to apply spraying with special fungicide preparations to combat diseases, and for onion flies it is better to do mixed planting, But There are no effective recipes for nematodes.

Used for watering beds, about 1 cup per plant. The next day, be sure to rinse with clean water!

In a similar way, you can use a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

The most the best remedy from diseases and pests – this is prevention.

More information about the garden.

1. Apply the principles of crop rotation for garlic, without planting it in the same place for several years in a row.
2. When planting garlic, treat the cloves with fungicides.
3. To prevent the accumulation of diseases, you need to change the seed at least once every 4 years.
4. To prevent nematodes, calendula, mint, marigolds, and coriander are planted next to garlic, the roots of which are poisonous to it.
5. You should not use fresh manure to feed garlic.

Increased soil acidity

Garlic requires neutral acidity in the soil for planting and growing. If there are problems with high acidity, then you need to correct this - to do this, dig up the ground and add lime.

It should be added gradually directly under digging, that is, immediately mixed with the ground. Amount of lime:

• very acidic soil - 60 kg per hundred square meters,
• medium sour – 45 kg,
• slightly acidic – up to 30 kg.

Lack of micro- and macroelements in the soil

If none of the previous reasons are suitable (the weather is warm, there are no diseases or pests, everything is in order with watering and soil acidity), and the garlic leaves still turn yellow, then only a lack of micro and macroelements in the soil remains.

If they turn yellow lower leaves, then this may mean that nutrients are used to form future heads of garlic.

The most common causes are a lack of nitrogen, magnesium or potassium in the soil. This can only be corrected by feeding.

• in early spring– lack of nutrition (roots grow slowly and do not have time to supply the plant),
• at other times - lack of nitrogen,
• when grown on poor soils, there may be a lack of potassium.

How to feed garlic in spring and what to water it with

For garlic, one fertilizing is enough, when the soil has not yet completely thawed. In most cases, this is enough to prevent shortage problems. nutrients in future.

To do this, use the following recipe:

• dissolve 6 g in 10 liters of water ammonium nitrate, 10 g of superphosphate and 6 g of potassium sulfate;
• watering is carried out from a ratio of 10 liters of water/m2;
• If necessary, you can repeat this feeding in a month.

Can be used ready-made drugs especially for garlic, for example, Agricola 2, Kemiru Fertika.

Folk recipes

For those who prefer to use folk recipes, you can use herbal infusions with ash, use humus or urea.

Mulching with humus

Chicken manure kept in a heap for more than 2 years and any other organic matter.

Herbal infusion

To prepare this infusion, simply pour water into a large container (for example, a 200 liter barrel) of cut grass or any weeds (use nettle effectively) and add wood ash.

Let it brew for 3-5 days and use the resulting solution to water the garlic at the root or do foliar feeding.

Ash

This feeding is useful for all bulbous plants. Can be used for foliar feeding or applied to the soil.

Foliar:

• 0.3 kg ash,
• 10 liters of water.

Boil the ash in boiling water for 20 minutes. Strain and dilute in 10 liters of water. For better adhesion, you can add 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap.

Urea

• 1 match boxes per 1 m2 (in the soil) or per 10 l (watering - 3 l/m2).

For urea, you first need to loosen the row spacing and make small grooves into which urea or other fertilizers are placed.

Then the garlic is watered and covered with humus or compost. This feeding is repeated after 2 weeks, but with the addition of complex fertilizers.

Foliar feeding. Urea is used at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters. Good for young plants foliar feeding complex fertilizers or potassium sulfate.

Already yellowed plants should also be fed and sprayed with complex fertilizers. But you can’t overdo it in this matter.

Not a single gardener can do without a bed of garlic. Despite the fact that this vegetable is unpretentious to grow, its greens can become sick and turn yellow, which negatively affects the growth of the head. Let's look at the main reasons why garlic in the garden turns yellow and what can be done to restore it to a healthy appearance, because this will not least determine what kind of harvest you will eventually be able to harvest.

Most often, gardeners grow winter varieties of garlic. They are not only the most common, but also give the most big harvest. Such garlic is planted in the beds in the fall, with the expectation that the cloves will go into winter rooted, but without releasing feathers.

If the cloves are planted in the ground too early, they have time to produce a green mass, which then gets frostbitten and turns yellow.

Helps eliminate the problem of yellowing garlic leaves right choice landing time. The optimal timing of work varies depending on the region. They usually fall in mid-October - November. More early landings practiced in the north, later ones in the south.

Late frosts

A common reason why garlic turns yellow in the spring is the vagaries of the weather. During spring frosts, young tender leaves of plants are damaged by frost.

If the seedlings are still small, then they can be saved by mulching the soil - 5-7 cm from above will be quite enough. At small sizes beds can be limited to temporary film cover. The use of stimulating drugs, such as Epin or Zircon, will help bring already damaged and yellowed garlic plantings back to life.

When cultivating spring varieties that are planted in April, care should also be taken. Sometimes it’s better not to rush and wait until May. If the weather forecast for spring in the region is unfavorable, you should not risk exposing your garlic to the risk of frostbite. In this case, the gardener will not have to guess why the garlic leaves in the garden have turned yellow.

Insufficient planting depth

Garlic is an unpretentious crop. But, nevertheless, agricultural technology is also important for him. At improper landing owners into the soil personal plot may notice that plants look sick in the spring. This is due to shallow embedding of the seed into the soil, and as a result, freezing of the bulbs.

Outwardly, this may look like yellowing of the tips of garlic leaves or a change in color throughout leaf blade plants. It turns light green or yellow.

To avoid this, it is necessary to plant garlic correctly, the depth of planting of cloves at autumn planting should be at least 4-6 cm. With frequent critical drops in temperature in the region, mandatory soil mulching should be used to prevent the garlic from freezing.

The following is used as mulch:

• humus;
• peat;
• straw;
• dry leaves.

A layer of covering material sufficient to successful wintering garlic should be at least 6 cm. Leaf and straw in the spring, as the snow melts, must be removed from the garden bed.

If the plants in the garden bed have already been damaged by frost and turned yellow in the spring, only high-quality intensive care throughout the spring.

Lack of nutrients in the soil

Most often, plants at this time may lack nitrogen, as the main element for gaining green mass and growth. You should also not lose sight of the possibility of potassium-magnesium starvation, but, usually, it manifests itself a little later. Plants use these substances in small quantities at first, but as they grow, the need for them increases.

If the reason why your garlic turned yellow in the spring is due to insufficient nutrition, there are several options that can be done to return the plants to their normal healthy appearance. The lack of necessary substances must be compensated by applying fertilizers in liquid form (using foliar and root dressings) or embedding them in the soil.

Nitrogen deficiency

Yellowing of garlic leaves in the spring due to insufficient nitrogen in the soil can be easily eliminated by applying the necessary doses of fertilizers. Depending on their availability, you can use both organics and agrochemicals.

Natural fertilizers include:

• manure;
• chicken droppings.

They are diluted with water in a standard concentration and watered over the plants.

If the leaves turn yellow due to lack of nitrogen, you can also feed the garlic with mineral fertilizers. Good effect provide complex preparations, for example, “Crystallon”, potassium nitrate. TO simple fertilizers refers to ammonium nitrate.

Urea (carbamide) can also be applied to garlic in the spring, but it must be remembered that it will not become available to plants immediately, therefore, if planting assistance needs to be provided immediately, it is better to use nitrate forms of fertilizers. In addition to watering, it is permissible to incorporate dry matter into the soil followed by irrigation. The dosage of drugs required for application can be found on the packaging of the fertilizer; it is indicated by the manufacturer.

Lack of potassium and magnesium

If there is a lack of these important components in the soil, garlic also begins to turn yellow. Its leaves first lose their inherent dark green color, and then gradually dry out. In this case, you should water the garlic so that it does not turn yellow with the following preparations:

• potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate);
• potassium magnesia;
• kalimag;
• monopotassium phosphate.

From natural fertilizers You can use wood ash. To do this, pour 2 cups of powder into 10 liters hot water, cool and filter. The resulting mixture is poured over the yellowed garlic. Or they scatter the ash evenly on the ground, and then water the bed well.

Improper watering

Lack of moisture, as well as its excess, is harmful to plants. Garlic reacts to this with the same yellowing of the leaves. It tolerates drought better, but is not able to completely do without watering. On average, garlic beds require abundant irrigation once a week. Greatest need in moisture is observed in the crop in May - June.

If the season is dry and there is no rain, planting spring and especially winter garlic in the spring should be watered from the first warm days. During a rainy season, the procedure may not be carried out.

Soil too acidic

To eliminate the problem, liming of the soil will be required. It is carried out in the fall during the preparation of beds for planting. On slightly acidic soils, add 0.3-0.35 kg of slaked lime per 1 m2, on acidic soils - 0.5-0.7 kg per 1 m2. The earth is carefully dug up. IN in this case, this is the only option that can be done to prevent the garlic feather from turning yellow.

Violation of crop rotation rules

Many gardeners often make the mistake of planting the same vegetables in the same place year after year. As a result, they get a lot of trouble next season. With such plantings in the soil:

• pests and infections characteristic of the crop accumulate;
• there is a deficiency of some substances and an excess of others;
• there is a shortage of crops.

Yellowing garlic leaves, therefore, may be a symptom that it is time for the plants to prepare a bed elsewhere. But this must be done competently. The use of crop rotation is possible even on small garden. It is recommended to plant garlic after crops such as zucchini, squash, cucumbers, and pumpkins. Tomatoes, cabbage and peppers will turn out to be a little worse as predecessors. You should absolutely not choose a place for garlic in the area where carrots and onions previously grew. On old bed the culture should be returned after 3-5 years.

Damage by diseases and pests

If the garlic in the garden has turned yellow, but the food supply is fine, you should think about the fact that the plants may simply be sick. During the growing season they can be affected fungal infections (root rot, powdery mildew, etc.), as well as pests (onion fly, nematode, etc.).

Garlic is a popular vegetable for planting in gardens and vegetable gardens, because it contains a huge amount of useful substances, thanks to which garlic is used as a medicine. Also, garlic gives food an amazing taste and aroma, so it is not surprising that many people like to plant it in their gardens.

Gardeners who plant garlic on their property may always be faced with the question: “Why does garlic turn yellow in the spring and what to do?” Yellowing of garlic begins at the tips, then quickly increases, which leads to slower growth and development of the plant, resulting in a poor harvest.

In this article we will try to help gardeners find the most effective solutions to avoid such problems. Below we will look at the reasons why garlic leaves turn yellow and describe methods to combat yellowing.

There are two types of garlic: spring, considered spring, and winter or winter. The leaves of winter plants are most susceptible to yellowing even during spring frosts.

In general, yellowing of garlic can occur due to various reasons:

1. If garlic is planted very early before winter, then it can produce green shoots by autumn, which will then be caught by frost, causing the leaves to turn yellow by spring. Gardeners in the middle zone of the country should plant garlic no earlier than October 15-20, in the south in mid-November.
2. Due to unfavorable weather conditions, frosts.
3. Garlic may lack beneficial nutrients.
4. At insufficient watering or its excess. If the air-water balance is disturbed, the crop will be spoiled. Do not forget: it is much easier for a garlic plant to survive drought than excess moisture. Watering the garlic plant should be done according to following diagram: with precipitation in small quantity the plant is watered once every fourteen days; If there is constant rainfall, you should not water the garlic at all; in the absence of rain, watering should be increased to once a week.
5. When there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. With constant rainfall, fertilizers begin to be washed out of the soil, after which the garlic plant begins to starve of nitrogen. In order to prevent nitrogen starvation of garlic in the fall, gardeners use ammonium sulfate, in early spring minerals, as well as organics. This can be liquid manure or carbamide. It is most effective to mix 20 grams of substances in a bucket of water, then water the plants. This is the only way the substances will quickly flow directly to the garlic.
6. If there is a lack of potassium or magnesium in the soil. If the garlic plant does not have enough potassium, then the roots will be damaged, the leaves will begin to yellow, dry out and wilt, and the garlic will stop growing. When fertilized with potassium, the growth of the garlic plant will be stimulated, and the garlic's resistance to frost, pests and dry weather will be increased. ABOUT insufficient quantity potassium is also indicated by other signs, such as: uneven growth of leaves that droop and grow thin, and “edge burns” begin to appear on the edges of the leaves. If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, you can fertilize garlic with wood ash, 100 grams of ash per meter of plot. Ash is also considered an excellent phosphorus fertilizer.
7. If the depth of the teeth is more than 7 centimeters. It is best to plant garlic at a depth of 5 to 7 centimeters. When planted deeper, the vegetable freezes and the leaves turn yellow. To avoid yellowing of the leaves, it is necessary to cover the young shoots with a polyethylene film. However, if garlic is already affected by spring frosts, then the vegetable must be treated with special stimulating drugs. The sooner gardeners start processing during frosts, the better. “Zircon” and the biostimulator “Epin” help improve root formation and flowering, and increase resistance against diseases. Per liter of water, 8 drops of Zircon, then soak the garlic cloves for 60 minutes. 1 milliliter of "Epin" is dissolved in a bucket with five liters of water.
8. If the soil where the garlic is planted is acidic. Only neutral soil, which is enriched with oxygen and has a sufficient amount of moisture, will contribute to obtaining good harvest. Acidic soil deteriorates the appearance of the garlic plant. The acidity of the soil should be reduced in the fall by preparing limestone that mixes well with the soil. For soil with strong acidity, 50 to 70 kilograms of lime are prepared; when working with moderately acidic soil, take from 35 to 45 kilograms of lime; if the soil has weak acidity, then 30-35 kilograms of lime will be enough.
9. Planting garlic in frozen soil or in extreme cold.

Diseases and pests

Fungal diseases can lead to rot and yellowing.

There are the following types diseases:

Fusarium (bottom rot)

1. Signs of the disease: active yellowing of leaves; the stems are covered with brown stripes.
2. Features: most often occurs in the south.
3. Prevention: treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate.
4. Causes of the disease: high humidity; excess moisture.

Bacterial rot or bacteriosis

1. Signs of the disease: the cloves begin to rot as they grow.
2. Causes of the disease: storing crops at high temperature and in a damp room.
3. Features: during storage and during the growing season, disease occurs.
4. Prevention: do not plant garlic plants in one place earlier than after 4 years; the soil must be fertilized with phosphorus fertilizers.

Basal rot

1. Signs of the disease: the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, then the yellowing continues at the bottom of the plant.
2. Causes of the disease: high humidity.
3. Features: Hard to notice until the leaves begin to yellow.
4. Prevention: removal of diseased plants; planting material must be disinfected with the drug “Tiram” in a concentration of two to three percent.

White rot

1. Signs of the disease: the bulbs become covered with white mold after the bulb begins to rot; the leaves wither and begin to turn yellow.
2. Causes of the disease: lack of nitrogen; dry spring.
3. Features: the disease can persist for more than 30 years in contaminated soil.
4. Prevention: regular watering in dry weather; use mineral fertilizers like ammonium nitrate.

Asperillosis or black mold

1. Signs of the disease: yellowed leaves; soft bulbs.
2. Causes of the disease: incorrect temperature regime environment.
3. Features: garlic that is not yet ripe is most often susceptible to disease.
4. Prevention: 1% Bordeaux mixture used 3 weeks before harvest; observe the temperature regime; dry thoroughly.

Penicillosis or green mold, blue mold

1. Signs of the disease: garlic cloves become covered with bluish-greenish rot.
2. Causes of the disease: through the air; careless handling during harvesting;
3. Features: Predominantly early garlic is affected by the disease.
4. Prevention: during storage, constantly monitor the crop and destroy (separate) cloves that are damaged.

Cervical rot or gray rot

1. Signs of the disease: roots rot; the stems turn black; black clots may appear between the cloves; when fertilizing garlic large doses nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
2. Causes of the disease: warm weather conditions; high humidity.
3. Prevention: The moisture level inside the soil should be monitored; Before storage, dry thoroughly and store at zero temperature - this stops the development of gray rot.

Downy mildew or downy mildew

1. Signs of the disease: furry spots gray appear on the leaves, they look like dew; slow growth; slow development; leaves may turn black, wrinkle, or turn yellow.
2. Causes of the disease: coolness; rainy weather conditions; planting too thick.
3. Features: the disease can be stored in the soil for many years.
4. Prevention: treatment with biological preparations (biofungicides).

Rust

1. Signs of the disease: yellowing of the leaves, which become covered with spots and specks.
2. Causes of the disease: through the air; high humidity; cool.
3. Features: Subsequently, the leaves may become orange or brown in color.
4. Prevention: chemically treat garlic before planting; the affected areas are removed, then the garlic is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Mosaic

1. Signs of the disease: the leaves begin to become covered with spots of white, green or yellow.
2. Causes of the disease: the virus is most often transmitted through planting material.
3. Features: affects inflorescences with leaves.
4. Prevention: planting healthy material; annually update seeding material by 30%.

Yellow dwarfism

1. Signs of the disease: yellow streaks on garlic leaves; the stems curl, begin to turn yellow, and become dwarf.
2. Causes of the disease: long-term propagation by garlic cloves.
3. Prevention: remove diseased plants.

Pests such as:

Stem nematode

1. Signs of the disease: long light stripes on the leaves; garlic has a pungent odor; yellowing, curling, wilting of leaves; the bulb loosens, then rots.
2. Features: watered at the root.
3. Prevention: a saline solution of two handfuls of salt is diluted in 10 liters of water; 2 tablespoons ammonia can be diluted in 10 liters of water; plant mint, calendula, and thyme near the garlic.

Onion fly

1. Signs of the disease: the plant weakens and dies; turns yellow quickly.
2. Features: lays eggs under the upper scales of garlic.
3. Prevention: change the sowing location; Plant only quality seeds.

Root mite

1. Signs of the disease: leaves with the bulb begin to dry out; The garlic scales begin to become covered with brown dust.
2. Features: lays up to 800 eggs at a time.
3. Prevention: you need to remove infected seeds and burn them; disinfect planting crops with chloropicrin or fumigate with sulfur dioxide.

What else should I water it with so it doesn’t turn yellow?

Garlic plants are watered in the spring with the following solutions:

1. Dilute humus or nitrogenous fertilizers in water.
2. During frost, growth stimulants “Epin” (1 milliliter per five-liter bucket) and “Zircon” (8 drops dissolved in a liter bucket) are diluted in water.
3. Against pests, water the garlic with a solution of three tablespoons table salt, dissolved in a bucket of water.
4. Kilogram wood ash insist in a bucket of boiled water hot water for three days, then mix and begin to water the beds as top dressing.
5. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water; the slightly pink water will help destroy harmful organisms.
6. Water the beds with a solution of urea (30 grams dissolves in a 10 liter bucket) as a dry fertilizer.
7. 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate in a liter bucket of water as an anti-yellowing fertilizer.

Spring is a wonderful time! How many positive emotions we get at the beginning of the summer season, when the first shoots of planted plants appear from the ground! Juicy, strong, green garlic feathers are among the first to make their way to the sun. But often joy gives way to anxiety - seemingly for no reason at all, young leaves begin to turn yellow. Why is this happening? How to get rid of such a scourge? What steps should be taken to avoid this problem in garlic plantings?

Causes of yellowing garlic

Yellowing and drying of garlic tops is normal at the end of the season, before harvesting. If winter or spring garlic turns yellow in the spring or at the height of summer, then this process is not just undesirable, but dangerous, so you need to look for the cause and eliminate it immediately.

• Delay in this case threatens loss of harvest quality, or even death of plants. Among the main reasons for untimely yellowing of garlic are the following:
• incorrect planting depth;
• violation of disembarkation deadlines;
• poor quality planting material;
• lack of nutrients, in particular nitrogen, macro- and microelements. If fertilizers were applied to the soil during autumn digging, then some of them, especially from sandy soil, can be washed away by melt water;
• increased soil acidity;
• lack or excess of moisture;
• poor soil breathability;

damage by diseases and pests.

If garlic exhibits premature yellowing and drying out of the leaves, it is suffering from chlorosis.

It is well known that it is easier to prevent any problem than to take measures to correct it later. If we analyze the causes of garlic chlorosis, we can note that most often problems arise due to violation of agrotechnical rules when planting and caring for plants. Let's remember the main points that you need to pay attention to when growing garlic to prevent it from turning yellow.

High-quality planting material and proper planting of garlic

First, let's talk about the heads of garlic intended for planting:

If you use grown garlic cloves for planting year after year, you risk getting plants with low viability. Experts recommend periodically renewing garlic seeds by growing single cloves from airy bulbs. This is how you can get seed raw materials that are free from various diseases.

Next important point is compliance with crop rotation. Garlic can be planted in its old place no earlier than after 3 years. This is exactly the period of time required so that spores of fungi and bacteria harmful to the crop lose their activity and do not infect young seedlings.

Garlic should be planted in optimal timing. Winter garlic middle lane In Russia they are planted in early October, in the southern regions - in November. This is the most comfortable period, since before the onset of frost the cloves will have time to take root, but will not throw out the leaves. Spring garlic is planted in the garden in early spring after the soil has warmed to +5–7 degrees. This temperature will be favorable for the formation of the plant’s root system and the beginning of leaf growth.

The planting depth of winter garlic plays a special role. A small impact can lead to freezing of the teeth in winter period. In the spring, such a plant will not throw out green feathers, but yellow, chlorotic ones. Deeply planted garlic also faces an unenviable fate - it can sprout unevenly, become wet, and dry out. An external symptom of these problems will also be yellow leaves.

The optimal planting depth is considered to be a depth of two times the height of the clove itself (from the bottom to the crown).

In the fall, a bed with winter garlic can be covered with fallen leaves, which will serve good shelter from winter cold. Mulching with straw and freshly cut grass will help protect emerging seedlings from spring frosts.

Compliance with agrotechnical rules for caring for garlic is a guarantee of preventing yellowing

First of all, you need to organize proper watering garlic plantings. At the beginning of the growing season, when garlic is actively growing green mass, the plant needs abundant watering. If there is not enough moisture, the tips of the leaves will begin to turn yellow. In the phase of formation of the heads, watering should be moderate; waterlogging during this period will lead to damping off of the bulbs, the first sign of which will again be yellowing of the leaves.
For irrigation, it is advisable to use water with a temperature of +15 - 18 degrees

In early spring, many gardens experience high standing groundwater, and the garlic in this case will suffer from waterlogging. The only way The solution to the problem is to plant garlic on high ridges.

After watering or rain, garlic plantings require mandatory loosening of the soil, since a dense earthen crust will impede air access, and garlic will react to a disturbance in the air balance by yellowing the foliage.

To prevent garlic leaves from turning yellow due to lack of nutrients, you should feed the plant on time. At the beginning of growth, it needs nitrogen most of all, so without waiting for the garlic to tell you that it is starving appearance, fertilize with a solution of mullein (in a ratio of 1:10), herbal infusion or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

It is not recommended to use fresh manure as top dressing.

Prevention against diseases and pests

Damage by diseases and pests is one of the main causes of yellowing of garlic feathers. Effective preventive measure To solve this problem is disinfection of seed material. To carry it out, you can use the above composition, as well as others that are no less effective:

• 1% potassium permanganate solution or copper sulfate. Exposure time - up to 10 hours;
• lye ash. To prepare it, pour 4 cups of wood ash into 2 liters of water, boil for half an hour, and cool. After stratification of the solution, use its light part for soaking planting material. Exposure time - about 2 hours;
• phytosporin solution (according to the instructions).

Some gardeners recommend heating the cloves for 8–10 hours at a temperature of +40–42 degrees.

On the Internet you can find recommendations for thoroughly cleaning garlic cloves from surface dry flakes. Based personal experience, I allow myself to doubt the necessity and safety of this procedure, since it can lead to damage to the covering scales, and this will open the way for various pathogens and pathogenic microbes.

If you do everything correctly, observe planting dates, select fertilizers, regulate the condition of the soil, garlic will grow without special problems, and you won’t have to deal with yellowing of the leaves.

What to do if garlic begins to turn yellow

If yellowness does appear on the garlic feathers, the first thing you need to do is try to determine the cause of its occurrence, and then decide what means you will use to eradicate this problem.

The garlic is frozen

Garlic leaves that have been frozen can be sprayed with available growth stimulants. According to reviews experienced gardeners one of the most effective remedies in this case is Epin. It increases the plant's immunity and stimulates the growth of new leaves.
After treatment with the drug, garlic can more easily tolerate low temperatures and lack of moisture. Epin can be used once a week, repeating treatments until the culture is completely cured.

In dissolved form, the product is suitable for use only for 48 hours, but it will give a really strong effect only if used immediately
Another drug that will have a restorative effect is Zircon. It helps garlic to quickly develop and recover at the cellular level, enhances leaf growth, protects the plant from stress and disease, and strengthens the immune system. The product is absolutely safe as it consists of herbal ingredients. It is recommended to combine zircon with vitamin supplements and fertilizers, then it will bring great benefits.

Garlic will respond well to treatment with Zircon provided the concentration of the substance is low: no more than 40 drops per 10 liters of water
A universal medicine for garlic is Succinic acid. This is a preparation created on the basis of amber processing products; it has a stimulating effect and also nourishes the plant with microelements. As a result, garlic treated with Succinic Acid quickly recovers from frost damage and can more easily withstand periods of drought and other stressful situations.

Succinic acid can be purchased both in specialized gardening stores and in pharmacies. This remedy is also recommended for enhancing human immunity.

Video: succinic acid in the garden

Nutrient deficiencies

If you suspect that the garlic is starting to turn yellow due to lack of nutrition, you should immediately fertilize the garlic.

Table: recommended recipes for fertilizing garlic in early spring

Do not forget that during active growth Garlic may turn yellow from lack of moisture. Weekly watering (in hot weather once every 5 days) will help correct the situation.

When affected by diseases or pests

It happens that all agrotechnical measures have been carried out, the garlic has enough nutrients and moisture, but the garlic continues to turn yellow. In this case, it is necessary to check the plant for signs of disease and pest damage. You need to remove the plant from the ground and carefully examine it.

Actellik has an unusually powerful effect against pests and provides reliable protection for many species. cultivated plants, including garlic, does not require long period waiting for harvesting Spraying of the fungicide Quadris is carried out in the morning or evening hours in calm weather, preventing it from being blown onto neighboring crops. The action of Fitoverm is intestinal and contact: penetrating into the pest’s body through the outer integument when spraying or after eating treated leaves, the substance acts on nervous system insect, causing its paralysis and then death
The insecticide Iskra is used to protect garlic from pests such as onion flies and root mites. Fundazol has a protective and therapeutic effect, it provides effective suppression of diseases even after their symptoms have appeared on plants

Traditional methods of protecting garlic

The use of chemicals to protect garlic crops is a highly effective method of destroying pests and pathogens, but its significant disadvantage is that in the fight with such means it can cause damage significant harm Not only environment, but also to the human body. Therefore, many gardeners prefer tried and tested products that have been proven for decades. traditional methods solutions to the problem of yellowing of garlic and its protection. "Grandfather's" advice does not require large labor costs and material investments, they are easy to implement, the components of the products are substances that are always at hand.

Let's give some people's councils that will help improve the health of garlic and protect it:

• It is recommended to pour boiling water onto the soil in the bed prepared for planting garlic, to which potassium permanganate is added (the solution should be dark pink). This procedure gives a good disinfecting effect;
• the bed with winter garlic should be under a thick layer of snow, which will protect the planted cloves from freezing. If the winter turns out to be little snow, then shovel the snow onto the area where the vegetable is planted;
• dust the garlic rows with tobacco dust or ash. These substances effectively repel onion flies;
• Sow carrots next to the garlic. The persistent aroma of its tops is also not liked by the onion fly;
• The smell of ammonia repels garlic pests. To prepare a solution, add 30 ml of product to 5 liters of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening, after watering the bed with water;
• to fight with onion fly spraying helps saline solution(200 g of salt per 10 liters of water);
• from tobacco dust You can prepare an infusion and also spray garlic against pests. To do this, 200 g of tobacco is poured into 5 liters warm water and insist for 2 days. Then filter, add another 5 liters of water and use it to treat the plantings.

Do not forget that calendula sown between rows is a living cordon against many dangerous pests, including from stem nematodes.

Please note: if the garlic leaves have simply turned yellow, then in most cases the situation can be corrected using the recommendations from this article. But drying out, deformation, curling of the leaves, the appearance of spots on them, and rot at the base of the garlic indicate more serious problems that require immediate removal of the affected plants and treatment of the garlic plantings with special means.

Garlic is a popular crop in our gardens. Some people use it to improve the taste of dishes and preserves, others treat colds and ward off the flu, while others fight spirits and vampires. But on every site there is always a place for this plant. Every gardener faces the problem of yellowing garlic leaves. To choose the right method of treatment or care, you need to determine the cause of the color change.

Wrong landing site

Garlic is a light-loving, sunny crop. In the shade of trees, a house, or a fence, it does not grow, but survives. No fertilizer can replace ultraviolet irradiation. Therefore, if there is opportunity and space, you need to plant additional spring garlic in an open area in the spring.

Leaves may turn yellow due to the presence of unwanted neighbors, for example, peas! If these crops are nearby in your garden, you can speed up the ripening of peas various feedings. When the harvest is harvested, remove the plants by the roots and generously feed the garlic with ash and highly diluted slurry. If the peas are early and early ripening, the garlic will have time to rehabilitate itself and will delight you with full heads.

Climate troubles

The cause of yellowing leaf tips may be early frosts in the fall, if the garlic is winter, or return frosts in the spring. The gardener’s task in this case is not to treat, but to support the plant. Cooking herbal infusion: into a barrel of water we dump all the cut grass, weeds, vegetable trimmings from the kitchen, add ash. The components can be taken in free proportion - we throw what we have. The plant mass should occupy at least half the container. We insist from 4 days in hot weather to 2 weeks in cool weather. 1 liter grass feeding dilute with water up to 10 liters and water the beds.

Preventive measures: plant garlic to a depth of more than 5 cm, mulch the bed. If autumn drags on and shoots appear before frost, cover the top with a second layer of mulch. Delay the planting date to winter as much as possible. It is believed that the clove must take root before frost. But the ground does not immediately freeze to 5 cm, even when the temperature drops below 0, and under mulch this process takes much longer. Therefore, with the arrival of minuses, the plant has at least another week left for rooting.

Prolonged drought and lack of watering can also cause yellowing and further drying of the leaves. This does not have a serious effect on the growth of the head mass, but the plant needs help. You can feed it with herbal infusion or a solution of salt and ash. Pour the ash into a container with water, stir well and leave for 24 hours. Add salt, thoroughly dissolving the sediment. Proportion: 1 bucket of water: 200 g of ash: 100 g of salt. Spray after sunset, after 1 hour, water with a sprinkler hose.

Another extremely rare climate problem that causes yellowing of garlic is blind or fungal rain. Drops settling on the leaves act as lenses through which the sun burns plant tissue. The same effect is caused by overhead watering in sunny weather.

Garlic turns yellow due to acidic soil - what to water it with?

It is better to work with acidic soil before planting plants on it. You can add lime dolomite flour, chalk. After treatment, the area needs to be dug up and watered so that useful material ended up at the level of the roots of future crops. Supporters of natural farming use green manure - rye and mustard. After the green mass grows, it is mowed and plowed into the ground. After a month you can start planting; the acidity level is much lower.

When the garlic has sprouted, digging is unlikely, so we will use ash and ground eggshell. Ash solution We prepare it a day before feeding so that it has time to brew. The shells are added right before application to the beds. The proportions are free; such a mixture cannot harm plants. You can simplify your work and simply scatter the ingredients over the garden bed, watering well with sprinkling.

Lack of nitrogen - what to do?

This problem is easy to diagnose; everything in the garden begins to turn yellow. The slurry is infused for at least a week: a liter jar of manure or a half-liter of bird droppings in a bucket of water. Before watering, dilute 10 times. After application, water the area well so that the nitrogen reaches the roots. You should not get carried away with such fertilizer; nitrates, which are undesirable for humans, are deposited in root crops. And the plant will begin to develop the above-ground part to the detriment of the head. The herbal infusion is much softer, but also slower. In combination with watering, they can be used to feed all crops every 2 weeks.

Garlic turns yellow due to fungal infections - how to fertilize it?

This is the most serious problem in the garden. It is extremely difficult to defeat infections while the plants are in the garden. There are a number of preparations containing copper and chlorine, which sometimes defeat diseases, but chlorine depresses garlic plantings, and the accumulation of copper in root vegetables depresses our bodies. TO preventive methods include crop rotation, purchasing seed from trusted producers, or growing your own healthy garlic from seeds in two seasons.

Soaking the planting cloves in a solution of potassium permanganate is also used. If the fungus manifests itself at the end of the growing season, you can dry the beds, completely eliminating watering. In case of rain, cover the area with waterproof material. The fungus needs moisture, but garlic does without water before harvesting.

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