Honeysuckle transplantation and care in autumn. How to cover honeysuckle for the winter? Typical mistakes of novice gardeners

Caring for honeysuckle in the fall and preparing the plant for winter is not too difficult. This is a popular erect, climbing or creeping shrub, often cultivated in home gardening. The berries of some types of garden crops are actively used for food purposes, therefore competent preparation The growth of plants by winter directly affects the quality and quantity of the harvest next season.

What care does honeysuckle need in autumn?

Before winter, the area where honeysuckle grows is weeded and cleared of fallen leaves.

Caring for honeysuckle plantings after harvesting involves performing several simple standard activities. Only proper preparation by winter it allows the plant to safely overwinter, and also ensures abundant flowering and fruiting in the future.

The main tasks for caring for a plant in the fall include:

irrigation activities;
sanitary or anti-aging pruning;
fertilizing and improving soil composition;
treatment against wintering pests and pathogenic microflora.

Among other things, characteristic feature all types of honeysuckle - enough early dates awakening of the plant in the spring. Therefore, transplanting to another place or dividing the bush is carried out in the fall, before the onset of severe frosts.

The shrub loves moisture, so if the autumn turns out to be dry, honeysuckle needs to be watered regularly.

Procedures for preparing honeysuckle for winter

There are many types of honeysuckle, but they all require almost the same care in the fall.

Poor yield is the result of overwintering an unprepared plant or a violation of the foundations proper care behind horticultural crops. To minimize the risk of freezing of berry bushes, you should Special attention on the methods and timing of autumn preparation of plants for frost. All freezing varieties must be covered with a layer of mulching material.

Autumn pruning

Inexperienced gardeners, before pruning honeysuckle, need to study the diagram and mark the branches that should be removed

Active branching of honeysuckle requires regular pruning. It rids the crop of damaged and too old branches, strengthens the plant before frost, and also significantly increases productivity.

The first autumn pruning is carried out in the fifth year after planting, and cultivation is carried out only on eight-year-old bushes.

Young plants should be systematically freed from thickening growth. For the procedure, only clean and sharp garden scissors or pruning shears are used.

Garden honeysuckle grows quite slowly, so when pruning you should be careful, take into account the fragility of the branches and adhere to the correct pattern.

Autumn feeding

If honeysuckle fruits are edible, it needs to be fed with potassium in the fall - then the berries will be sweet and tasty

The best option for feeding honeysuckle is represented by organic fertilizers, which make the soil more fertile and saturated with all the bacteria important for the normal development of the plant. The most common organic fertilizers include humus and compost, applied every 3-4 years at the rate of one bucket for each young bush. Immediately before the onset of a strong autumn cold snap, decorative berry crops should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Good result

gives the use of ordinary wood ash (0.5 l), superphosphate (60 g) and potassium salt (40 g). Fertilizers of this type must be applied directly to the root zone of garden shrubs. In autumn, you cannot use fertilizing with big amount

nitrogen and fresh manure.

Autumn shelter

To protect honeysuckle, the shoots are collected in a bunch, covered with spruce or pine branches and tied To autumn shelter

became as effective as possible and protected the bush from severe winter frosts, it is recommended to give preference to natural materials that allow air to pass through quite well, but prevent the penetration of cold to the branches and roots. Curly above-ground shoots should be untied from the supports and gathered into a not too dense bunch. A fairly thick layer of dry peat is laid under the bushes, after which the branches are collected and sprinkled generously sawdust or spruce branches. In winters with little snow, decorative berry bushes are necessarily “covered” with snow.

It is very important not to allow too much moisture, which causes damping off of the bushes.

To protect against birds and rodents, it is allowed to use special nets and poisoned baits.

Regional care Depending on the characteristics of the selected variety and in the growing region there are differences in the preparation of honeysuckle for winter frosts. The average thickness of the mulch layer must be selected taking into account the climate and cold resistance of the crop. In any case, fertilizing and pruning are carried out about a month before the onset of severe frosts.

Middle zone and Volga region

The shrub can withstand frosts down to -35 degrees and below.

Frost-resistant varieties, most often cultivated in the Moscow region, do not require the use of special winter shelter. Any mulching materials are used only to protect climbing vines or decorative varieties berry culture, which do not have sufficient frost resistance.

Territory of the Urals

In the Urals, you can cover honeysuckle at will, but you should tie the shoots together in any case

Before the onset of frost, only insufficiently winter-hardy varieties of berry crops are covered. Throughout the cold period, it is very important to control the level of snow mass over garden plantings and regularly add a decreasing layer of natural insulation.

Territory of Siberia

In Siberia, it is necessary to cover honeysuckle with a net, since hungry animals can harm the bush

In the most northern regions Only the varieties of honeysuckle that are most adapted to cold climates are cultivated, and a large amount of snow mass means that the above-ground part of the plant is protected from breaking off. For this purpose, the branches of the plant are carefully tied, after which they are bent to the ground and always covered with a net.

Video: How to prepare honeysuckle honeysuckle for winter

Honeysuckle is a useful and unpretentious crop, but a rich harvest of valuable and delicious berries can only be obtained under the right conditions and timely care. Fertilizing, watering and pruning should not be neglected, and special attention is paid to proper autumn preparation berry bush for winter.

Many amateur gardeners grow honeysuckle on their plots. This ornamental shrub has more than 180 varieties, while there are shrubs with edible fruits, and others with poisonous ones. Despite the fact that the plant is considered frost-resistant, care for honeysuckle cannot be ignored; preparation for winter must be thorough to prevent the death of the bush.

At the end of summer, it is time for gardeners to begin autumn work. Preparation for winter includes a number of mandatory work that needs to be done in the fall:

Trimming bush branches.
Cleaning up dry branches, debris and weeds. Although some people believe that there is no need to remove leaves and shoots, if you don’t want pests and rodents hiding there, it is better to clean it.
Feeding bushes.
Honeysuckle shelter.

How to prune honeysuckle in autumn

Let's look at the rules for pruning honeysuckle using an example: climbing bush honeysuckle honeysuckle. It bushes well, young shoots regularly grow from basal buds, and shoots also form on old shoots. Pruning is necessary so that the bush acquires a noble appearance and the branches do not grow in different sides as they please.

Beginning gardeners who have not grown honeysuckle before need to know that only shrubs that have reached the age of five can be pruned. After proper trimming next time this operation will only need to be done in a couple of years.

First, the upper skeletal branches are cut off. Using a sharp pruner, make a cut not at the base, but in the middle of the branch. Then small branches that cause thickening of the crown are removed. Weakened, diseased branches, as well as shoots growing inside the bush, are also pruned. There is no need to remove young shoots, since buds form on them.

If the bushes are older than ten years, they need to be trimmed right down to the stump, cutting off the branches at a height of about 40 centimeters. If global pruning is carried out, after it there should be at least five shoots left on the bush.

Some varieties of honeysuckle, such as Cinderella or Azure, have bushes that fall apart because the plant's skeletal branches spread along the ground. Such branches are removed during pruning. This way you can get a more raised bush shape.

Timing for pruning

When is the best time to prune? The timing may vary depending on the region of growth, that is, the pruning time in the Moscow region will differ from the timing of pruning bushes in the Krasnodar Territory.

If autumn is warm, pruning can be done in October. If the leaves have fallen early or the weather has worsened, you can trim unnecessary, damaged and old branches in September.

Autumn feeding of honeysuckle

After all unnecessary shoots have been removed, you will need a garden varnish. They process sections.

The use of fertilizers after the pruning procedure is justified by the fact that they can increase the yield, protect the honeysuckle from infection and prepare the crops for winter.

Most often, fertilizing is carried out with organic fertilizers, using rotted compost or humus. Many people ask whether it is possible to deposit mineral fertilizers? Under no circumstances should nitrogen-containing fertilizers be applied. Otherwise, you can provoke a sharp growth of leaves, which will destroy the plant in frost.

It is allowed to fertilize honeysuckle with phosphorus or potassium supplements, but only at a rate of no more than 25 g/sq. meter.

How to prepare honeysuckle for winter

How much shelter the plant needs depends on the type of honeysuckle. The fact is that some frost-resistant varieties They winter well without any shelter at all. But ornamental and climbing varieties will not be able to survive the harsh winter if the gardener does not take care of them.

You need to pay special attention to climbing varieties of honeysuckle. It is necessary to remove the supports on which the branches were attached, then carefully bend all the branches to lay them closer to the ground. They are sprinkled with sawdust on top and covered spruce paws. In the Volga region and beyond the Urals, you can additionally cover the shoots with rolled covering material. The fallen snow will reliably protect you from winds and frosts.

In Siberia, honeysuckle is first tied into a bundle for the winter so that it does not break under the weight of the snow cover.

It is also necessary to think about protecting shrubs from pests. Hares, and even mice, love to eat bark. And bullfinches often peck on frosty days fruit buds. A net thrown over the bushes will become a good obstacle for birds. Poisonous bait placed around bushes will repel mice.

Autumn grafting of honeysuckle

Around October, when the leaves have already fallen, you can do an autumn grafting. You need to have time to carry out the procedure before the onset of frost so that the scion has time to take root. But this procedure cannot be carried out too early, since new kidneys cannot be allowed to appear.

Vaccination scheme

The shoot is pruned sharp knife obliquely. The same is done with the scion.
Then the two shoots are firmly connected, connecting them with tape.
Cover with plain paper or film.
Wrap with twine.

How does honeysuckle reproduce?

Propagation by cuttings is the most commonly used method of propagating honeysuckle. You need to start the process in the summer; by the beginning of autumn you can get cuttings with well-developed roots.

Apical cuttings are harvested early in the morning. The shoots should be about 15 centimeters. You can leave the top couple of leaves and remove the rest. An oblique incision is made under the kidney. This will help root formation. The shoots are then placed in a liquid root stimulator.

In a greenhouse, the bottom is covered with crushed stone or pebbles. The top is covered with soil and a mixture of sand and peat is poured onto it. Be sure to water well. The cuttings are planted, leaving a distance of 10 cm between them. The shoots are placed in the soil at half their height. The cuttings are watered again and covered with film on top. Spraying from a spray bottle must be carried out regularly for two weeks. After this, the amount of watering is reduced.

In autumn, the cuttings will have well-developed roots. They do not need to be replanted. It is worth covering them with coniferous spruce branches, leaves or peat. A layer of such mulch will allow the young cuttings to overwinter. By spring they will be ready for planting in open ground, and next fall to a permanent place of growth.

To propagate honeysuckle, you can also use shoots that have already become woody. Harvesting is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen. For the winter, the cut cuttings are removed to the basement or cellar.

Typical mistakes of novice gardeners

Speaking about growing honeysuckle and preparing this plant for winter, you must strictly follow the rules of care. Beginning gardeners often make mistakes by losing plants. Among the most typical are:

Young shoots are removed, after which the plant cannot bloom and bear fruit.
Bushes that are too young and have not yet reached maturity are pruned. The plant becomes weak, it is impossible to wait for the harvest.
They neglect the shelter of decorative varieties of honeysuckle.

Compliance simple rules autumn care will allow you to preserve the plant, which will delight you in the summer beautiful flowers, and some varieties have tasty fruits.

Increasingly, in summer cottages you can see honeysuckle: a climbing or erect shrub strewn with blue berries. Biologists know about 200 varieties, but only two of them have gained great popularity - honeysuckle and Tatar honeysuckle.

The berries of the bush not only have an unusual taste, but are also endowed with a number of medicinal properties. Substances contained in honeysuckle have a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system: strengthen blood vessels, prevent the development of arteriosclerosis, and lower blood pressure.

Despite the unpretentiousness of the shrub, many gardeners are unable to harvest a full harvest of medicinal berries. Most likely, the reason for poor fertility lies in improper preparation for winter. What needs to be done in the fall to increase the yield of honeysuckle?

Features of honeysuckle care in autumn and its preparation for winter

So that the bush winters safely and pleases healing berries, it is important to provide him with the most comfortable conditions.

Autumn care for honeysuckle includes:

Watering. The shrub likes to grow in moist soil, so if it's a dry autumn, honeysuckle needs to be watered regularly.
Fertilizer application. Timely feeding will help the plant to successfully overwinter.
Transfer. Since the shrub wakes up very early in the spring, replanting is carried out in the fall. The bush is carefully dug up, taken out along with the soil and placed on burlap, which is pulled to a new hole, and then the plant is placed in a hole 5-7 cm covered with humus and sprinkled with soil.
Cleaning the area. The area is weeded, and then the fallen leaves are raked and destroyed.
Shelter. Before the onset of cold weather, honeysuckle varieties that are afraid of frost are insulated with a layer of mulch.

Pruning honeysuckle in autumn

Like most shrubs, honeysuckle is endowed with excellent bushiness: the plant quickly forms shoots and new shoots. That is why the plant needs autumn pruning, during which old and damaged branches are cut off. Such a simple garden manipulation strengthens the bush well before winter and improves its productivity.

Worth knowing! Pruning of edible varieties of honeysuckle must be done 5 years after planting. Upon reaching the age of 8 years, the bush is cultivated after a year.

Despite the fact that large-scale pruning of honeysuckle is prohibited, excess shoots located in the center of the bush are cut out from young bushes. As a result of such intervention, more sun rays and the air permeability of the plant improves.

Why do you need to trim?

Pruning honeysuckle is an important step in autumn care. The manipulation is carried out in order to:

give the bush a beautiful shape;
rejuvenate the plant;
increase the yield of edible varieties;
stimulate abundant flowering next year;
strengthen the bush before winter;
maintain the original quality of berries: due to shortage sunlight and poor ventilation, the berries lose their taste.

Important! Pruning must be done extremely carefully: honeysuckle of edible varieties will take a long time to restore its lost shape, since it grows very slowly.

When is it better to prune in spring or autumn - pruning timing

Honeysuckle very quickly awakens from hibernation, so pruning in the spring is extremely risky. In addition, if you are late with the manipulation, you can damage the fruit buds.

Best time The time to prune honeysuckle is in November, when the night temperature drops below 0 C and the bush sheds its leaves.

Note! It is extremely undesirable to carry out autumn pruning of honeysuckle before the specified period: hasty pruning before frost causes the buds to develop, and they freeze out.

Step-by-step instructions and diagram for pruning a plant in the fall

Unlike other shrubs, honeysuckle does not require annual pruning: the plant begins to be fully pruned only when it reaches the age of 5 years. Not only the condition of the plant, but also the further frequency of pruning depends on how well the garden manipulation was carried out: as a rule, after proper pruning, honeysuckle does not have to be pruned for 2-3 years.

Sequence of pruning an adult bush in the fall:

Dried and damaged shoots or parts thereof are removed from the crown: it is not advisable to cut off the entire branch if only its tip is damaged.
To provide the bush with good ventilation, cut off branches that lean strongly downwards.
Branches and shoots that do not have branches are trimmed irregular shape(too curved, clumsy). At the end of pruning, the bush should consist of 8-15 shoots.
On skeletal branches, branches directed inward are removed. This will prevent shading of the bush and reducing the size of the berries.

For successful wintering and good fruiting after pruning, the bush must consist of at least 5 shoots.

Important! The branches break very easily, so the bush must be pruned with extreme care.

Video: how to prune honeysuckle in the fall

Features of pruning young and old honeysuckle

Honeysuckle pruning sequence different ages differs significantly from each other.

Nuances of pruning young bush honeysuckle in autumn:

Unlike the vast majority berry bushes Honeysuckle is not pruned after planting: serious intervention not only slows down the development of the plant, but also significantly delays the fruiting phase.
Until the plant is 5 years old, only branches growing inside the bush, as well as those that have dried or broken, are removed from the bush. As a result of such gentle pruning, the branches do not intertwine with each other, and more sunlight and moisture enter the center of the bush, which promotes normal plant growth.

To bring an old abandoned bush back to life, owners need to suppress old branches or completely trim the plant to a stump: all shoots that are more than 40 cm in height are cut off with pruning shears. Anti-aging pruning is best done after leaf fall or as a last resort. in early spring, while honeysuckle has not yet woken up. As a result of such pruning, the bush will form many new strong shoots.

Worth knowing! Experienced gardeners recommend tying the bush after rejuvenating pruning: to do this, wooden or metal pegs are buried in the ground along the perimeter of the plant, and then tied with a rope slightly above the cut site. Such support will prevent severe collapse of the plant and breakage of young shoots.

Video: pruning honeysuckle in autumn

Features of pruning honeysuckle honeysuckle in autumn

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is an ornamental shrub that is often used landscape designers as a hedge. Climbing vines are pruned to rejuvenate the plant and give it the desired shape.

Like other varieties of shrubs, honeysuckle grows quickly, so its crown requires regular thinning by cutting off old, dried and growing branches. If the plant is intended for arranging a hedge, branches protruding from the crown are trimmed as necessary.

Video: pruning honeysuckle capriol in autumn

Feeding and caring for honeysuckle after pruning

Immediately after trimming unnecessary branches, the cut areas are lubricated oil paint, garden pitch (if it is still plastic) or clay: the putty protects the wound from bacteria, and it heals quickly.

At the end of the manipulation, the area is cleared of fallen leaves and pruned branches.

To improve fruiting, rotted manure or compost is applied to the honeysuckle once every three years.

Note! You cannot use mineral fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen to feed plants in the fall: the element can cause leaves to bloom before frost.

Adult bushes are fertilized with potassium and phosphorus at the rate of 20 and 30 g/sq.m.

Preparing honeysuckle for winter

Before you start covering the plant, you need to determine its variety: most types of honeysuckle have high frost resistance and are able to withstand cold snaps down to -50 C without harm to the buds. Naturally, such species do not need shelter.

Decorative varieties and climbing vines do not have such cold resistance, so they are insulated before winter.

How to properly cover honeysuckle for the winter

To cover for the winter, climbing vines are untied from the supports, collected in one bunch and laid on the ground or a previously prepared layer of peat. The shoots are sprinkled with small spruce branches or sawdust. In case of winters with little snow, the bush is sprinkled with snow.

The cold is not so bad decorative honeysuckle, like an attack by birds and small rodents who like to feast on the buds and bark of the plant in winter. To protect the bush from pests, it is covered with a special mesh or synthetic bags.

Video: how to cover honeysuckle for the winter with pine spruce branches

What are the features of preparing honeysuckle for winter in different regions?

Depending on the selected variety and growing region, preparing the honeysuckle bush for winter varies slightly. The thickness of the mulch is selected based on the description of the variety and climatic conditions of a particular region. In the North, honeysuckle bushes need to be protected not only from the cold, but also from hungry birds and rodents.

In the middle lane

Frost-resistant varieties growing in the Moscow region do not need shelter for the winter. It is recommended to cover climbing vines with mulch material and decorative varieties honeysuckle, which are not highly frost-resistant.

In the Volga region

Preparing honeysuckle for winter in the Volga region is carried out according to the same rules as in central Russia.

In the Urals

Only varieties that do not have high frost resistance are covered for the winter. Shelter is carried out according to the usual scheme. During the winter, you need to monitor the level of snow above the bush; if the layer of natural insulation decreases, it needs to be added.

In Siberia

In the northern region there is always a lot of snow, so to prevent the branches from breaking under the weight of a fluffy blanket, they are tied into a bundle. To protect the buds of the bush for the winter from hungry birds, the bush is covered with a net. Bags with poisonous bait for rodents placed around the perimeter of the bush will help protect honeysuckle from mice.

Typical mistakes in autumn care and preparation for winter

Gardeners often overlook important rules autumn care and pruning of the bush before winter, namely:

the plant is pruned immediately after planting;
many young shoots are pruned from the bush, which are actively forming buds;
full pruning is carried out before the bush reaches maturity: the plant weakens and produces less yield;
do not oblige old bush during anti-aging pruning, as a result of which the shoots bend strongly towards the ground;

shorten young shoots, thereby removing most of the buds.

Thanks to the unpretentiousness and stability of the plant, it is very simple to grow honeysuckle in your own area: before winter, the bush needs to be fed and pruned, and then covered with a net from pests. Such care will be quite enough for a successful winter and abundant fruiting of medicinal berries. In addition, a well-groomed ornamental bush will become the main decoration of any site.

In contact with

Recently, honeysuckle plantings can be increasingly found in gardens and summer cottages. This plant belongs to the genus of creeping, erect or climbing shrubs of the Honeysuckle family.

In total, there are more than 200 species of honeysuckle in nature. Most plant species boast frost resistance and unpretentiousness when grown. Some types of berries can be safely eaten. In living nature, honeysuckle can be found in mixed, deciduous and coniferous forests temperate climate. The plant easily adapts to different conditions environment. In gardening, you can most often observe Tatarian honeysuckle or rosin, although today summer residents are trying to plant other varieties of plants.

Honeysuckle is one of the few fruit bushes that perfectly tolerates both the vagaries of northern weather and harsh Siberian winters. The main thing is to follow all the rules for caring for the plant, especially in the fall.

Caring for honeysuckle in the fall differs little from preparing for the onset of frost in other fruit bushes. The main components of plant care are replanting, pruning, cleaning the area, fertilizing and sheltering for the winter.

Autumn care for honeysuckle: highlights and features

Many gardeners replant shrubs in the spring, but it is best to postpone this procedure to the fall. The fact is that honeysuckle is a shrub with an early growing season. Already from the end of July, the plant begins a dormant period, which lasts until the beginning of spring. According to the observations of gardeners, during the entire specified period, honeysuckle does not bloom dormant buds. Thus, you can replant honeysuckle bushes from August until October.

It is important! Replanting the bush should be done very carefully, because the root system of honeysuckle can be easily damaged. You should prepare a new place for transplantation in advance, dig a hole several times larger than the original one. Honeysuckle should not be moved to a new place, but dragged along the ground. To avoid damaging the plant, it should be loaded onto burlap and carefully moved to new site. It is necessary to leave a lump of earth on the roots. Humus should first be added to the hole. The bush needs to be buried about five to six centimeters. This will complete the transplant.

Honeysuckle has excellent bushiness. Shoots form in large numbers on old branches. In addition, young shoots are being formed in the root area. To curb the process of random branching of the bush, you should regularly trim the branches.

You need to know this! Branches should be pruned no earlier than the plant’s 6th year of life. If everything is done correctly, then the next processing of the branches will be required no earlier than in 2-3 years.

How to prune? Firstly, only old and dry branches should be removed. Secondly, when carrying out the procedure for rejuvenating a plant, you should not get too carried away with the process. After you finish pruning, there should be at least five healthy trunks left on the bush. Experienced gardeners do not recommend pruning young branches, as greatest number kidney

Adding fertilizer to the soil is very important for honeysuckle. With this, the gardener will help the shrub to survive the winter well, and then bloom and produce beautifully. good harvest berries

It will be wonderful if a summer resident manages to feed honeysuckle with organic matter. Rotted compost or humus should be added no more than once every three years. This will be enough to feed the bush. You should not get carried away with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, they can cause intensive growth of honeysuckle. As a result, the buds will begin to open just before the onset of frost, and the plant will die. Ideal for potassium phosphate fertilizers. For an adult 3-4 year old bush, it will be enough to add no more than twenty grams of potassium salts and at least thirty grams of superphosphate. The indicated proportions are calculated for one square meter of garden plantings.

Cleaning the garden area

The main task of the gardener is to completely clear the trunk circles of honeysuckle from last year’s foliage. Despite the fact that the plant is rarely attacked by pests or affected by fungal diseases, it is the foliage that can cause such troubles.

Sheltering honeysuckle for the winter

Before covering the bushes for the winter, you should understand which category of plants your honeysuckle variety belongs to. The winter-hardy plant perfectly tolerates even the most severe frosts and does not require any shelter. In such shrubs, flower buds can easily withstand even forty-degree frosts, and growth buds can withstand fifty-degree frosts!

However, many decorative varieties cannot boast of such exceptional frost resistance. This is especially true for climbing vines. They do not have such exceptional endurance, so they should be covered for the winter. The first step is to remove the supports supporting the plant. Then the vines will be on the ground. Then the honeysuckle should be carefully sprinkled on top with spruce branches or dry sawdust. The fallen snow will also protect the plant from severe frosts and prevent the vine from dying.

Unfortunately, plants need to be protected not only from severe frosts, but also from pests. For example, bullfinches love to feast on the fruit buds of the plant, and small rodents love honeysuckle bark. It often happens that the gardener discovers the sad consequences only in the spring, when the plant has already been largely damaged by pests. To prevent this from happening, honeysuckle should be protected from rodents and birds by throwing a net over the plantings.

Honeysuckle is a wonderful perennial plant that, with proper care, in spring, summer, and especially in autumn, will delight the gardener with exquisite flowering and juicy fruits.

How to cover climbing vines for the winter - clematis, honeysuckle, passionflower

Akebia quintuple.

It does not overwinter in this zone without shelter. Since Akebia’s shoots, although long, are thin and flexible, after the leaves fall, the lashes are removed from the supports, straightened in length and tied into one bundle, and then rolled into rings, trying to give it minimum diameter. Then they fix it with some kind of weight, pressing it to the ground. Cover the top with plastic wrap, tucking its edges under the folded akebia. After this, they are covered with dry leaves on top, covered with spruce branches or some plant debris. With such shelter, akebia successfully tolerates frosts.

Actinidia chinensis, or kiwi.

Kiwi is a very problematic crop in the north-east of Ukraine. This actinidia can only overwinter with good winter shelter. The vine must be removed from the support and covered, like a covering grape, i.e. or dig it into a ditch, covering it with earth, or laying it on the ground, cover it with some kind of insulating material, and on top with plastic film.

Fortune's euonymus by its nature is a liana that, with the help of root suckers, climbs a support, but in our climate it behaves like a ground cover plant. The stems spread along the ground and produce roots that grow into the soil. In snowless winters, it needs to be covered with dry leaves or spruce branches. Stems that are not covered and are above the snow level freeze.

The following species are cultivated: Chinese wisteria, bush wisteria and profusely flowering wisteria. These are powerful vines for the southern and western regions. In the conditions of the north-east of Ukraine it can be grown as a cover crop. To do this, the stems are removed from the support, laid on the ground and covered with plastic film, on top of which dry leaves are poured, spruce branches or some other plant debris are placed. In very harsh winters, wisteria can freeze even under such cover.

Japanese honeysuckle.

This liana can overwinter in the northeastern regions only if covered for the winter. The lashes must be removed from the support, laid on the ground and covered with a dry leaf or coniferous spruce branches, and placed on top of this cover plastic film, which is pressed with something so that the wind does not blow it away. Other types of honeysuckle overwinter well even without shelter.

In landscaping, Campsis rooting, Campsis grandiflora and Campsis hybrid are used. For the described region, Kampsis rooting is most suitable. The other two Kampsis can be grown in the southern and western regions. It is advisable to plant rooting campsis on the south side of the house, on the sunny side of the fence and in unshaded areas. For the winter, young plants are bent to the ground and covered with dry leaves and plastic film. Large plants are practically not covered, since it is very difficult to bend them to the ground without breaking them. It happens that in unfavorable winters, annual shoots freeze slightly, but in the spring new ones grow in their place and bloom the same year.

Clematis shelter for the winter

For the winter, clematis from the Jacquemman group are cut 20-30 cm from the ground and lightly hilled. You don’t have to cut the vine, but lay it on the ground and cover it with dry leaves, on top of which they cover it with plastic film. In this case, clematis bloom earlier than on shoots that grow in spring. Large-flowered clematis from the woolly group, as well as mountain clematis, are carefully removed from the support, trying not to break the shoots, laid on the ground and covered exactly as described above.

Passionflower, passion flower

Of the named exotic vines, only passionflower incarnate can be grown in open ground. Only this species is capable of producing not only shoots up to three meters in one summer, but also edible fruits. True, the fruits do not always ripen, but only when nature gives us a long, warm autumn. For the winter, the plant is cut off and covered very carefully. It should be covered so that the soil in the root zone remains unfrozen throughout the winter. You can also do this: first cover the trimmed bush with earth, and then with a very thick layer of dry leaves, on top of which put plastic film. The diameter of the shelter must be large enough to prevent the soil from freezing.

This evergreen shrub needs light shelter for the winter. Cover with dry leaves, spruce branches or stems of flower crops.

If it is desirable to preserve the ivy shoots on a vertical support (wall, tree trunk, stone fence), then they are covered with some dense material such as burlap or matting. The stems, spreading along the ground, overwinter under the snow without shelter, but since it is impossible to predict what kind of winter it will be, it is better to sprinkle them with dry leaves.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle: planting, propagation, care (pruning). Honeysuckle varieties. Photo of vines

Photo: Honeysuckle honeysuckle in the Moscow region

Once upon a time, bouquets of honeysuckle were given to lovers as a sign of fidelity and devotion, and artists depicted it on their canvases as a symbol of long-term love. Now few people know about the former popularity of this vine in matters of the heart, but its decorative qualities are still in demand and continue to delight. Especially in the climate middle zone Russia, where the list of wintering spectacular perennial vines, and even more so fragrant. Honeysuckle honeysuckle is one of them. Among its advantages are unpretentiousness and very fast growth. With good care, it grows up to 6 m, adding a meter or more per year. And it lives for a very long time, without losing its attractiveness for several decades.

Honeysuckle is also known as fragrant honeysuckle. This name was given to it for the extraordinary aroma exuded during flowering - a rare quality for a vine.

IN wildlife it grows in the Crimea, the Caucasus and Europe - where it is often called Italian honeysuckle. Honeysuckle leaves are a favorite delicacy of local goats, for which it is also called goat honeysuckle, and the botanical “caprifolium” means nothing more than “goat leaf”.

Honeysuckle has taken root in gardens for a very long time. Its attractive bright pink and white flowers with a pleasant scent and dense greenery are a real boon for vertical gardening. It looks great with roses and coniferous plants and can decorate walls and gazebos. Honeysuckle honeysuckle is good for decorating fences, arches, outbuildings, old trees, both on their own and in combination with other climbing plants.

Photo: Honeysuckle honeysuckle flowers

Honeysuckle honeysuckle - Lonicera caprifolium - is the most striking representative of the genus Honeysuckle, which unites deciduous, less often semi-evergreen and evergreen shrubs (the majority of them) and a few vines. Honeysuckle is the most fragrant among them.

Its flowering begins in June and lasts up to two weeks. The fragrant bush looks very impressive; every 4 days, new buds open to replace the faded ones. They are concentrated on annual shoots and cover almost the entire vine. Only in old plants the bottom of the shoots remains open. But with proper care, this can be corrected by pruning or planting other plants nearby that mask this “decorative flaw.”

The two-lipped flowers of honeysuckle are located on the upper leaves and are collected in bunches. Protruding stamens give them airiness. The flowers are large in size (up to 5 cm) and have an unusual color. They are light on the inside and may have cream or cream on the outside. bright shades red, violet and purple flowers. As they wither, they acquire a yellowish color. The flowers are very attractive to bees, which willingly visit the vine. In July, red inedible berries (fruits) ripen on it and remain until October. From them you can collect seeds, they are numerous, and propagate honeysuckle (if it is not a hybrid variety).

There are two forms of honeysuckle: with numerous white flowers - alba, and rarer red-pink ones - pauciflora.

The leaves of fragrant honeysuckle are arranged oppositely, dark green in color, and bluish on the reverse side. The upper leaves are fused and form something like a plate. Dense foliage does not change color until late autumn. Expressive flowers and bright fruits, so all summer and autumn the liana decorates the garden.

Although honeysuckle honeysuckle is of southern origin, it grows successfully in Moscow and St. Petersburg without winter shelter. Only its young shoots freeze, but in the spring they quickly renew themselves from new buds, growing up to a meter per year. Sellers of seedlings assure that honeysuckle can withstand short-term drops in temperature to -40. But she is most comfortable in zones 6-9, where the temperature does not drop below -20 degrees - in such conditions she winters without loss. In zones 5 and 4, problems may occur after wintering.

Do not be afraid of frost resistance indicators. After all, we have long learned to grow such heat-loving crops as roses and clematis in our climate. Compared to them, honeysuckle seems like a completely “northern” plant.

For reference: Moscow, St. Petersburg - zone 5, Moscow region, central Russia– zone 4, Crimea, Sochi – zone 8, Italy – zone 9.

Photo: Fruits of honeysuckle honeysuckle

VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS OF HONEYSUCKLE CAPRIFOLE

Except natural look Lonicera caprifolium is cultivated by varieties and hybrids of honeysuckle honeysuckle. They are not as reliable and in the Moscow region require additional care.

Very decorative and resistant variety honeysuckle honeysuckle "Inga" (Inga) with pink buds and cream flowers. Its shoots grow up to 3 m.

Derived from honeysuckle and Etruscan honeysuckle American honeysuckle (Lonicera americanum) , introduced to Russia from America in the 19th century. In the Moscow region it freezes slightly, and grows better in the southern regions and Crimea. She has bright red corollas, yellow with inside.

Natural hybrid Heckrott's honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrottii) appeared from American and evergreen honeysuckle, which means honeysuckle is in its pedigree. The shoots of Hekrota honeysuckle are less climbing than those of honeysuckle, and sometimes it can even grow like a bush. Blooms on shoots current year. Popular variety - "American Beauty" . In the conditions of the Moscow region, at temperatures below -15 degrees, the tops of its shoots freeze slightly, but in the spring they grow again, so the vine continues to flower. Hekrota honeysuckle blooms very beautifully and for a long time, it has no smell. The color of the corollas is fuchsia and orange, yellow on the inside. In the fall, “American Beauty” is not as spectacular in our country as real honeysuckle, since due to the not entirely comfortable climate, it does not produce bright fruits in this region. But to the south (zone 6-9) the berries ripen, and the vine looks elegant.

More frost-resistant variety Honeysuckle Hekrota/Hekrota "Gold Flame" - zones from 5 to 9. It has fragrant flowers, yellow inside and pink-red outside, similar to the species.

Photo: Honeysuckle honeysuckle variety “Inga” and honeysuckle Hekrota variety “American Beauty” and “Gold Flame”

PLANTING HONEYSUCKLE CAPRIFOLE, CARE

Honeysuckle grows best on slightly alkaline or neutral soils, always fertile, with plenty of humus. Does not like heavy and dry soil.

Select for landing sunny place or light partial shade. Honeysuckle can exist in the shade, but there will be no flowering or fruiting here. Honeysuckles are especially comfortable near southern walls and fences, in places not blown by cold winds. But on a hot afternoon in summer, it is advisable for her to be in partial shade.

When planting a vine, you need to take into account that it grows for a long time, and the plant requires a supply of food. landing pit dig at least 50 cm in size in all directions. To avoid stagnation of water, drainage is done. Then they fill it with fertile soil. Apply at least a bucket of old manure or compost and potassium-phosphorus or complex fertilizers according to the instructions on the package.

If several plants are planted and they are intended for vertical gardening of a wall, building or gazebo, then it is worth digging a trench in which the seedlings are distributed at a distance of at least a meter.

Planting is carried out taking into account subsequent soil subsidence. Therefore, the root collar is placed 5 cm above the ground level. Do not add soil above the root collar.

Young seedlings are watered and care is taken that the soil does not dry out. It is advisable to mulch the tree trunk circle. If this is not done, the plant is watered more often, the soil at the roots is loosened shallowly, and weeded.

For a beautiful shape, the vine requires strong support. It can be made of metal or wood, in the form of slats, stretched cords, mesh or in another way. The first shoots are evenly distributed over the support, taking into account that the vine twists clockwise.

Seedlings planted in September will have time to grow and become stronger by winter. To ensure good survival rate, seedlings are chosen no older than three years. In the first year after planting for the winter, the root system must be additionally mulched with peat.

In summer, make sure to water the climbing bush; the ground around it should not dry out. Water not often, but deeply - at least a bucket of water per plant. To retain moisture in the soil and protect against weeds, the soil at the base of the stems is mulched.

For better flowering and aroma are used from the second year universal fertilizers or organic. They are introduced early in the spring. Good effect give foliar feeding“on the leaves” with diluted complex mineral fertilizer.

Photo: Perennial shoot of honeysuckle honeysuckle with annual branches

For a vine to be beautiful, it needs to be shaped. So that honeysuckle shoots branch at the base and the trunk is not exposed, they are cut off immediately after planting, leaving 1/3 of the length.

In the second year in the spring, 3-4 of the strongest shoots are selected from the regrown shoots, which will form the main skeleton of the vine, and the rest are removed. Over the course of the season after pruning, the vine will grow, and thick greenery will cover the gazebo or wall right from the ground. When the height of the support is reached, the shoots are cut or directed in the desired direction.

Subsequently, thickening, broken and dried parts of the plant are pruned annually. If this is not done, the vine will look abandoned. If you overdo it with pruning, honeysuckle will lose its attractiveness and splendor.

If honeysuckle does not turn green for a long time after a frosty winter, do not rush to remove the seemingly lifeless shoots. With the onset of warm weather, additional dormant buds awaken (its peculiarity!), after which the branches begin to grow. If this does not happen, then it is not too late to cut out the dried shoots.

If an adult plant has fewer and fewer flower buds every year, it is rejuvenated by completely cutting off the stems. Then new shoots grow from the buds at the base, and the life of the vine is revived. Anti-aging pruning should be carried out every 5-6 years, preferably every two years, cutting out half of the old shoots at a time.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is very rarely affected by diseases and pests, but still has its enemies. These can be cabbage caterpillars, aphids, powdery mildew, and rust fungi. They are fought with the help of specially developed drugs that are presented in the retail chain.

Honeysuckle does not need shelter for the winter, but its varieties and hybrids may suffer more from frost (young shoots). Although they are all capable of regrowth, it is best to protect them during the winter. In October, the vines are lowered from their supports to the ground like clematis and covered, for example, with spunbond, dry foliage or spruce branches.

Growing new honeysuckle plants is carried out from seeds, cuttings or using layering.

This is the most labor-intensive process, starting with seed stratification. It is carried out in wet sand for 2 months at a temperature from 0 to +5°C (basement, refrigerator...). Prepared seeds are sown in nutritious light soil based on peat, humus and sand, taken in equal parts. The top is lightly sprinkled with sand, covered with any transparent material, creating a greenhouse, and until the shoots appear, it is ventilated daily and moistened if necessary. Keep in a warm and bright place, but not in direct sunlight. Sowing is carried out in March (for seedlings) or in open ground after the end of spring frosts. At winter sowing in open ground, seeds often germinate only a year later in the fall.

After sowing, the seedlings are looked after and planted in a timely manner. The seedlings will be ready for planting next spring, and flowering will occur in the third or fourth year, fruiting will begin a year later. Until this time, it is advisable to cover the plants for the winter, for example, by covering them with peat, or laying spruce branches, or covering them with lutrasil.

The easiest way is propagation by layering. The lower branches of the vine often grow to the soil themselves, and this happens very easily. Therefore, if necessary, you need to pin the shoot and do not forget to water it. In the fall, you can plant the rooted branches in a permanent place.

Cuttings for propagation are cut after flowering and planted in a greenhouse. They are taken from the middle part of the shoot. The cutting must have at least two internodes. The lower one is placed in the ground, having first removed the leaves, and the upper one is placed above the soil level, its leaves are slightly shortened.

For rooting, cuttings require a moist environment and a bright, non-sunny place. They can be planted in a greenhouse or in a special box under a film and shaded. The substrate should be light and fertile and contain a lot of peat and sand.

Growing honeysuckle honeysuckle from green cuttings is a standard process that requires periodic watering, weeding, loosening, and ventilation. The fact that the cuttings have taken root, that is, they have formed a root system, can be judged by the new leaves that appear on them.

For the winter they need to be covered (leaves, peat, spunbond or another choice). Next year, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location. In the second year after transplantation, honeysuckle begins to bloom. This propagation method is suitable if a large number of plants are required.

In addition to summer cuttings, autumn cuttings are suitable for propagation - they are cut and planted before winter or early spring, keeping them in the sand in the basement during the winter. You can take spring cuttings; they are cut before flowering, when new shoots have grown at least ten centimeters.

BENEFICIAL PROPERTIES OF HONEYSUCKLE CAPRIFOLE

Admiring the aroma and decorativeness of honeysuckle, many do not assume that it has healing powers. People have used these medicinal properties for hundreds of years.

An infusion of dried leaves, stems and flowers of honeysuckle honeysuckle has an antiseptic and diuretic effect.
A decoction of dry leaves is used to gargle for sore throat and pharyngitis.
Pounded fresh leaves Honeysuckles with the juice appearing are applied to wounds and ulcers, which then quickly heal.
An infusion of honeysuckle flowers has antipyretic and diaphoretic properties.

To prepare the infusion, you need a teaspoon of dried raw materials and a glass of boiling water. It is infused in a warm place for 30 minutes. At the reception - a tablespoon of infusion. Frequency: 3–4 times a day.

A decoction will be obtained if, instead of infusion, you use low heat for 5 minutes or a water bath.

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We'll tell you about the time of planting Honeysuckle honeysuckle, as well as the main points of care and propagation of the flower!

Vertical gardening of garden plots is practiced almost everywhere. For these purposes, there is a huge variety of plants, both perennials and annuals.

Among the variety of vines, honeysuckle honeysuckle stands out especially. Its height can reach about six meters. This plant considered by gardeners to be a favorite in the garden. It's connected with rapid growth plants, unpretentiousness, availability large quantities green leaves and fragrant inedible fruits.

Types and varieties of Honeysuckle

You can decorate arches, gazebos or building facades with the help of vines. The most common types of honeysuckle are the following:

Characterized by large leaves dark color. Since the beginning of summer, a large number of cream flowers with a pink tint blooming at dusk. At night, the flowers emit a stunning, persistent aroma that attracts insects to pollinate the vine;

Heat-loving honey plant. The Serotina variety has crimson-colored flowers that bloom throughout the summer season. The fruits are berry-shaped, bright red, hanging in clusters;

Fuchsia Brown

A hybrid of two species - evergreen and rough honeysuckle. Blooms profusely from late June. The plant is of medium height and has decorative properties, both with and without support. The most popular variety is Dropmore Scarlet;

Rough

Orange-yellow flowers bloom in early June. Blooms profusely and brightly. Liana height about four meters. It is valued for its unpretentiousness in cultivation and undemandingness to the composition of the soil. Easily propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Propagation by cuttings

Propagation of honeysuckle honeysuckle by cuttings has certain difficulties. Blank suitable material carried out after the mother plant has finished flowering. Suitable shoots should be cut with a sharp knife.

The branches are immersed in the soil no deeper than three centimeters and covered top with glass jars. The shelter is removed no earlier than leaves appear on the cuttings.

Sheltering the plant for the winter

After the plant has been planted in the garden, it must be covered for the winter during the first two years. The spruce branches of coniferous trees or fallen leaves are ideal as covering materials. There is no need to remove the vine from the support; the shoots are resistant to frost. Main - protect the root system.

In all subsequent years, honeysuckle does not need shelter.

Let's look at the Hydrangea paniculata and Anabel varieties in this publication.

See this article on how to care for Dieffenbachia at home.

Diseases and pests

Ornamental types of honeysuckle are generally resistant to various diseases and pests, but you cannot be completely sure that the plant will always be healthy. The most common honeysuckle diseases are:

Fungal diseases
Phytoviral diseases

Fungal diseases

If the plant grows in areas where there is a high level of humidity, spots may appear on the leaves of the plant, causing the honeysuckle to dry out and die. Sometimes the vine is affected powdery mildew. The lower part of the leaves is covered with a white coating. In order to prevent these diseases, it is recommended to spray the plant with a solution of foundationazole in early spring.

Phytoviral diseases

Very common in most garden crops, and can sometimes infect honeysuckle. The leaves of the plant are covered with light green spots and specks near the central vein. The most effective measures to combat these diseases are compliance with all agrotechnical rules for growing honeysuckle and purchasing planting material exclusively from trusted sellers with a good reputation. If there are diseased bushes in the garden plot, they should be dug up and burned.

The honeysuckle sawfly lays eggs on the lower parts of leaf blades. The caterpillars that are soon born are very voracious. They are characterized by eating holes of various shapes in the leaves. Pests are eliminated manually, as their number there are never many.

If in summer time curled leaves were noticed on the young shoots, then most likely a rose or currant leaf roller has settled on the honeysuckle. The honeysuckle moth and honeysuckle miner are known for making narrow passages in plants. In case of mass appearance of harmful insects, treatment with Inta-Vir, Eleksar or Decis solution is recommended.

There are more than one hundred species of honeysuckle in nature. Of this variety, the fruits of only a few varieties are not suitable for consumption. All other plants are excellent healing agents. The berries can be used fresh or in the form of medicinal preparations. Also used honeysuckle root system.

In detail http://floradoma.com/komnatnyie-rasteniya/zamiokulkas-peresadka.html we will discuss how to replant Zamiokulkas and select the right pot for a plant.

The fruits are useful for people with ulcers and people who have problems with gastrointestinal tract. The berries are very sweet, aromatic, and are widely used in the treatment of arrhythmia, gout and arthritis. The juice of the plant is excellent for treating skin diseases.

Decoctions of honeysuckle leaves are used as an anti-inflammatory agent; they are excellent for eliminating colds. Diseases that are difficult to treat, such as trophic ulcers, go away if you use honeysuckle fruit juice.

Small amounts of berries are beneficial for women during pregnancy. They should be eaten every morning before meals. Plus, honeysuckle is a good diuretic.

We should not forget that there are types of honeysuckle that are poisonous to human body. It is not recommended to give The fruits of the plant are edible for young children under five years of age, so as not to cause an allergic reaction in the form of rash, itching and redness of the skin.

Preparing honeysuckle for winter. Sheltering honeysuckle for the winter

Honeysuckle is rightfully considered unpretentious and very winter-hardy plant. She easily endures the vagaries of northern weather and Siberian frosts. But this does not mean that honeysuckle is not prepared for winter at all. Any plant loves care and attention - this is the only way to get a full harvest of berries and an attractive appearance.

Like all fruit bushes, honeysuckle requires pruning, harvesting and feeding in the fall.

Unlike currants and gooseberries, honeysuckle is freed from fruit in the first half of summer. Accordingly, leaf fall begins much earlier. Therefore, autumn is the most the right time for trimming. After the age of six, it is necessary to thin out and rejuvenate the bushes every two to three years.

First of all, diseased, drying and broken branches are removed. Then come the branches of the shaded lower tier and dry shoots. After this, the old branches are cut out so that no more than five thick trunks remain on the bush.

Be sure to get rid of parts of the bush that lie on the soil and do not participate in fruiting. But you should not trim the tops of the shoots of honeysuckle - they contain the main flower buds, damage to which will lead to a noticeable decrease in yield.

After leaf fall, all fallen leaves are removed from under the honeysuckle bushes. Carefully remove any leftovers organic mulch, if it is present in the tree trunk circles. Despite the fact that most pests common to our gardens do not damage honeysuckle, this does not prevent them from hibernating under its branches.

Every autumn, honeysuckle should be fed using potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Nitrogen should not be used at this time. For adult bushes, 30 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium salt per square meter of plantings are sufficient. But every three to four years it is advisable to add organic matter - humus or well-rotted compost. These natural fertilizers will not only increase soil fertility, but will also contribute to the development beneficial bacteria contained in healthy soil.

Shelter for the winter

Most varieties of honeysuckle are very frost-resistant. Their growth buds, like wood, can easily withstand frosts down to minus 50 °C. Roots and flower buds do not die down to minus 40 °C. And during flowering, the bushes are not afraid of short-term frosts down to minus 8 °C.

But decorative and, especially, beautiful climbing varieties do not have such endurance. All vines must be removed from their supports and bent to the ground - this way the buds will be better preserved under the snow. To be sure, you can even lay them on peat and cover them with spruce branches.

Mice, rats and other rodents rarely damage honeysuckle bark. But forest birds, such as bullfinches or waxwings, moving closer to garden plots, love to peck at its fruit buds. In some areas Eastern Siberia this becomes a real problem, forcing the bushes to be covered with nets or bags made of synthetic fabrics.

Caring for honeysuckle in the fall and preparing for winter: fertilizing, pruning and covering

Features of honeysuckle care in autumn and its preparation for winter

In order for the shrub to safely overwinter and delight it with healing berries, it is important to provide it with the most comfortable conditions.

Autumn care for honeysuckle includes:

For successful wintering and good fruiting after pruning, the bush must consist of at least 5 shoots.

Important! The branches break very easily, so the bush must be pruned with extreme care.

Video: how to prune honeysuckle in the fall

Features of pruning young and old honeysuckle

The sequence of pruning honeysuckle of different ages differs significantly from each other.

The nuances of pruning a young honeysuckle bush in the fall:

Unlike the vast majority of berry bushes, honeysuckle is not pruned after planting: serious intervention will not only slow down the development of the plant, but will also significantly delay the fruiting phase.

Until the plant is 5 years old, only branches growing inside the bush, as well as those that have dried or broken, are removed from the bush. As a result of such gentle pruning, the branches do not intertwine with each other, and more sunlight and moisture enter the center of the bush, which promotes normal plant growth.

To bring an old abandoned bush back to life, owners need to suppress old branches or completely trim the plant to a stump: all shoots that are more than 40 cm in height are cut off with pruning shears. Rejuvenating pruning is best done after the leaves fall or, in extreme cases, in early spring, while the honeysuckle has not yet woken up. As a result of such pruning, the bush will form many new strong shoots.

Worth knowing! Experienced gardeners recommend tying the bush after rejuvenating pruning: to do this, wooden or metal pegs are buried in the ground along the perimeter of the plant, and then tied with a rope slightly above the cut site. Such support will prevent severe collapse of the plant and breakage of young shoots.

Video: pruning honeysuckle in autumn

Honeysuckle (Lonicera) is a low-demanding crop, but this does not mean that it will bear fruit without any care at all. Lonicera wakes up in early spring, and shoot growth ends in midsummer and the plant goes into deep dormancy. Due to its biological characteristics, caring for honeysuckle in the fall and preparing for winter are very important. On autumn period Major work is done on pruning and preparing young seedlings for winter.

Proper care after active growth

Lonicera is moisture-loving. After picking berries until late autumn, watering is required, although not as abundant and frequent as during fruiting. The soil under the bushes is not loosened, much less dug up, as many summer residents like to do at the end of the season. Root system honeysuckle is located in upper layers soil and is easily damaged. Throughout the growing season, it is recommended to periodically update the mulch layer, which may consist of compost or sawdust. Mulch keeps the soil moist for a long time and slows down the growth of weeds, eliminating the need for weeding.

If necessary, in early September, treatments are carried out with specialized preparations for pests and diseases.

Autumn pruning of honeysuckle

In autumn they spend like sanitary pruning, removing dry and broken shoots, as well as forming ones, cutting off protruding and inward-growing branches. Lonicera tolerates pruning well. Moreover, this procedure, when carried out correctly, promotes abundant flowering and increases productivity.

In the first 5 years of life, the edible honeysuckle bush grows very slowly and does not need pruning. On the contrary, pruning at a young age leads to stunted growth.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out starting from the age of 8 after 2 - 3 years. They start it after leaf fall. Remove branches growing close to the ground and thin out the bush, removing part of the main shoots. As a result, the bush should have from 3 to 5 healthy powerful shoots.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle – Lonicera caprifolium

Feeding honeysuckle in autumn

Despite the fact that the main share of fertilizing occurs during the period active growth and fruiting, in the autumn period honeysuckle needs to be helped to prepare for winter, as well as make a supply nutrients for next year.

Once every 3 years, rotted organic matter in the form of humus and compost is added under the honeysuckle bushes. This fertilizer will begin to work already at the beginning of the snow melting, when due to mud it is not yet possible to enter the area, which is very important for early honeysuckle.

To increase the winter hardiness of young bushes, in early autumn they are fertilized with superphosphate and ash, always combined with abundant watering.

You should not rake and burn fallen leaves - they will become additional mulch and a source of nutrients. Lonicera is rarely damaged by disease, so there is no need to worry about the accumulation of infection, as is the case with fruit trees.

Climbing honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum)

Preparing honeysuckle for winter

Lonicera in the conditions of central Russia shows good frost resistance and winters well without shelter. For young seedlings, especially the first year of planting, it is advisable to create additional protection for the surface root system. To do this, it is enough to mulch the tree trunk circles with dry leaves, humus or sawdust. It is not worth using peat for these purposes, as it acidifies the soil, which honeysuckle does not like.