Tasty and healthy raspberries: growing, care and proper pruning. Step-by-step instructions for pruning raspberries Pruning raspberries in summer

Raspberry an unpretentious berry bush, but requiring annual pruning and some attention to obtain a harvest of large and healthy berries.

Let's take a closer look: When is the best time to prune raspberries?, how to prune raspberry bushes in spring and autumn, diagrams and videos of pruning raspberry bushes.

Raspberries can be grown on one plot for up to 10 years, but the lifespan of the plantings is 5-8 years. Therefore, after 5-6 years, the rhizomes of old bushes are dug up so that this place is filled with young shoots.

Raspberry berry bush with a two-year development cycle. In the third year, the berries become very small, so it is necessary to prune all two-year-old shoots, adhering to certain rules.

Video - Pruning raspberries in spring

Raspberries need to be pruned several times a season. Over the summer, up to 20 new shoots can grow from one root.

2-3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, pruning of fruit-bearing shoots is carried out.

If you don't have remontant varieties raspberries, you can start pruning after harvesting the berries (late August).

Constant care for raspberries is also necessary in the summer. Pruning raspberries in summer carried out with the aim of removing and destroying withered tips of shoots during flowering, or those affected by viral diseases.

Such stems should not be kept until autumn, otherwise nearby bushes may become infected. Remove unnecessary growth that appears, because it depletes the raspberry bushes.

Pruning raspberries in autumn. How to prune raspberries correctly?

Start pruning raspberries immediately after harvest, this is recommended by experienced gardeners. In the fall, trim off all diseased, broken, poorly developed shoots affected by pests.

But the main goal is to trim two-year-old shoots, leaving only well-developed shoots. Remove the cut shoots from the site and burn them.

Pruning raspberry bushes in autumn step by step:

1. First, broken, damaged by diseases and pests, dried, weak and annual shoots are cut out at the root;
2. Trim spent two-year-old shoots at the root;
3. Overgrown bushes must be thinned out, leaving 8-10 of the healthiest and strongest stems per 1 m2;
4. Dig up the raspberry bushes, destroy the weeds;
5. Burn all cut branches or remove them from the site. They may contain pests or pathogens;
6. Finally, fertilize the raspberries and treat the stems with iron sulfate.

For raspberries, all new shoots appear from the rhizome, so you can cut them flush to the ground without leaving stumps.

If you propagate raspberries, then use root shoots. It is dug up and transplanted to another place. If there is no such need, immediately pull out the shoots as soon as you notice, so that more nutrients went to the development of the necessary shoots.

In regions with little snow in winter, you can avoid pruning the bushes; tie the bushes and bend them to the ground. In the spring, prune after the snow melts.

Conducting pruning and caring for raspberries in spring and autumn, you stimulate raspberries to bear fruit well.

Video - Pruning raspberries in the fall after harvesting

Gives very good results double pruning of raspberries according to Sobolev, but requires high level agricultural technology during cultivation. Only when really good care and fertilizing, double pruning will give good results.

Pruning in the first year according to Sobolev

At the end of May, beginning of June, shoots are pruned. The young shoot grows by this time to 70-100 cm in height. Pinch the tops by 10-15 cm, as a result they begin to grow actively side shoots, which by autumn will grow up to 50 cm long.

Attention: Be sure to carry out pruning in a timely manner, otherwise the side shoots will not have time to develop and ripen well and may freeze in winter.

Sobolev obtained the best harvest by leaving 4 shoots per bush and a distance of 2 m between the raspberry bushes.

In the fall, thin out the bushes, removing all the growth.

Pruning in the second year according to Sobolev

The second pruning is carried out next spring when the leaves on the plants bloomed. All shoots on the bushes are pruned, shortened by 5-15 cm.

As a result, new shoots are formed that will bear fruit. In this case, fruiting lasts until autumn, the berries do not ripen at the same time, and a large number of ovaries are formed on the bushes. Provide plants good watering, fertilize to obtain good harvest.

The statement that raspberries are unpretentious is, in principle, true, but you still cannot do without competent care measures. Pruning raspberries - when and how to do it correctly? This procedure is simply necessary to obtain a good harvest of large and sweet raspberries. Even from an aesthetic point of view, neatly decorated bushes look more attractive after pruning, and the process of collecting fruit becomes easy and enjoyable.

Raspberries before and after pruning

Why do you need to prune raspberries?

If the bush is too thick, large berries not worth the wait. This factor also affects taste qualities fruits: dense growth does not transmit enough sun rays, as well as air currents(all parts of the plant should be well blown by the wind). Proper pruning raspberries prevents the occurrence of various diseases, and also reduces the chances of pests breeding, and the harvesting process itself is easier - there are fewer thorny branches.

As is known, most raspberry varieties flower buds are formed on two-year-old shoots. After a two-year growing season, the branches must be cut out and replaced by young stems growing from the rhizome of the bush. In other words, if the “spent” branches are not removed in time, the young livestock will not have enough vitality to ripen well before the onset of winter.

Such shoots may freeze or even freeze with the arrival of frost. Pruning of berry bushes is done in spring, summer, and also in autumn. Let's take a closer look at all the stages.

Pruning raspberries in spring

This procedure is a kind of addition to autumn pruning; it is carried out when the last snow melts. The bush should be carefully inspected and all frozen and broken fragments should be removed. Frozen branches are cut back to the first viable bud. Shoots that look diseased should be completely pruned. Ideally, about 8-10 powerful branches should remain on one bush, the rest should be cut out without regret. If you have a large raspberry garden, then the distance between the rows should be approximately two meters, and between the bushes - one and a half.

Spring pruning is the radical removal of all unnecessary fragments at the root, as close to the ground as possible. All other shoots should be shortened by about 20 cm (cut off the tops), so that the height of the bush is one and a half meters.

Experienced summer residents also recommend another quite interesting way spring pruning, which makes it possible to enjoy the taste of your favorite berries for a long time, until the onset of autumn. To do this, you should figuratively divide all your raspberry bushes growing into three parts.

Raspberry cutting height will be different for each group:

• The first one has the usual trimming of the tops by 15-20 cm;
• The second one involves cutting off all shoots exactly half their length;
• The third one has short pruning, leaving only 15 cm of the entire length of the branch.

The shorter the shoot, the later it will produce a harvest. Thus, fruit ripening will occur in stages, starting from the second month of summer and until late autumn. Proper pruning of young bushes is also important when initially planting in the ground! As we know, this process can be done in autumn or spring. In turn, plants in containers can be planted at any time. Pruning when planting in the spring helps the plants to better take root in their new location. The branches are cut so that their length is approximately 25 cm above ground level.

Pruning raspberries in summer

This culture is very prone to overgrowth, so summer period the growth of excess growth should be limited (so that it does not have time to take root). If you see that within a radius of 20-30 cm from the base of the bush there are numerous shoots sticking out of the ground, resolutely remove them. In this case, you should, as it were, cut through the root system of the shoot with a shovel. At the same time, when raspberries begin to bloom, it is important to promptly remove yellowing foliage and shoots that you suspect of disease. All affected fragments must be burned immediately.

Raspberries in autumn - care, pruning for winter

Produced in autumn thorough preparation raspberries for the coming winter. Of course, all fruit-bearing branches are removed, all diseased or damaged shoots are cut out ( sanitary pruning), as well as excessive growth. Do not forget about cutting at the root and subsequent disposal of plant residues by burning.

Autumn pruning of raspberries should be carried out 3 weeks before the arrival of the first frost - this best time for this procedure. To calculate the timing in advance, it is recommended to study the forecast of the Hydrometeorological Center.

A bush can grow about 20 young branches over the summer, sometimes more. If your raspberries grow in rows, then there should be 12-13 shoots left on each bush, but if they are grown in bushes, then leave no more than 10 branches. Winter pruning is sometimes combined with preparing plants for cold weather. This is especially true in the so-called cold regions of our country. In this case, the branches of the bush are grouped immediately after pruning (sometimes they bend down to the ground) and are covered with protective material (lutrasil, spunbond).

Double pruning of raspberries according to Sobolev

In this article, it will certainly be appropriate to mention this two-step pruning method. The famous gardener A.G. Sobolev developed it back in Soviet times, however, this successful agricultural technique is actively used in our time. The essence of the technology is to strictly adhere to pruning deadlines, as well as to control the thickening of the bush. As a result of a simple procedure vitality shrubs focus on the growth of lateral branches, increasing the number of flower buds, and the fruiting time of raspberries is significantly extended.

How to do double pruning:

• Around the 20th of May (or at the very beginning of June, since the dates vary depending on the region of your residence), when the length of the branches is 70-100 cm, you need to trim their tops by 15 cm. This technique will provoke the active growth of new side shoots that will gain strength by the time autumn arrives. Here it is extremely important not to miss the deadline, not to prune too late, because by the onset of cold weather the shoots should be well matured, reaching a length of about 40-50 cm. Branches that are not strong enough may simply not survive the winter.
• Before wintering, it is recommended to carefully bend these stems to the ground and cover them with appropriate material.
• Second - spring pruning It is carried out immediately after the appearance of foliage on the branches of the bush. Each side shoot is shortened by 10-13 cm, which provides a powerful incentive to activate dormant buds.

Along with this, it is necessary to provide raspberries comprehensive care, monitor the density of the bush crown, and carry out all required agrotechnical procedures in a timely manner.

This two-stage pruning can be done on raspberry bushes of any variety.

Pruning remontant raspberries, when and how to do it correctly?

Even though this procedure most often carried out at the end of the fruiting period, pruning time for remontant raspberries should be chosen taking into account climatic features your area of ​​residence. Pruning raspberries in the fall is recommended for the southern territories, but in the northern regions, on the contrary, it is better to do this early spring. You should also take into account the fact that remontant raspberries can bear fruit not only on two-year-old shoots, but also on annual shoots. Thus, you can harvest healthy berries twice a season. In most cases, the second wave of harvest is not as abundant as the first. But still, until the first snows, you can continue to enjoy sweet berries.

Pruning of remontant raspberries in the fall is done with the onset of the first frosts (around November); all fruit-bearing branches are cut off literally “at the root” without regret.

Pruning remontant raspberries in the spring, as mentioned above, is more recommended for northern regions, where in winter time Frosting of plantings often occurs. Preserving the above-ground part of the plant will contribute to the accumulation of nutritional components in the root system of the bush, and when snow falls, the remaining branches will act as a kind of protective cocoon. Thus, spring pruning should be done around the end of March/April, before the buds open. Against the background of swelling healthy buds, you can easily see “dead” shoots that did not survive the winter. All frozen, broken, and withered branches are cut off either completely (if they are not viable) or to the first living bud.

We should not forget about pests and diseases that prefer to overwinter in the bark of the bush. To exclude the possibility of raspberry disease, immediately after pruning it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution of the drug “Decis” (according to the instructions) or Bordeaux mixture(3% solution). For the same reason, be sure to burn all trimmed plant fragments.

Raspberry is a prickly deciduous subshrub. Its shoots grow up to 2 - 2.5 meters in height. With good care, in one place it can bear fruit for 10 years or more. On personal plots You can find regular and remontant raspberries.

The remontant crop bears fruit on one- and two-year-old shoots. The fruits ripen continuously on young shoots from late summer to autumn cold. But in the second year the quantity and quality of the berries deteriorates, so it is grown as an annual. In autumn, remontant raspberries must be cut at ground level. In the spring, new strong shoots will grow in this place, bloom and delight you with a fragrant harvest.

Regular raspberries are perennials with a two-year development cycle. Raspberry stems grown in this year, called annual growth. They are fluffy, only near the ground they are covered with dark-colored spines. Those that grew up last year are called biennial fruit bearing. They are strong and prickly. Fruiting occurs on shoots of the second year. Therefore, we must strive to create best conditions for the growth of shoots in the first year in order to obtain a bountiful harvest in the second.

Although raspberries are a low-demanding crop, they require constant thinning of the bushes. Otherwise, the raspberry tree will become overgrown and the crop yield will drop. Growing strongly, the offspring interfere with each other. There is a shortage sunlight, moisture, nutrition and air. Under such conditions, the stems weaken and sometimes die. With poor ventilation, diseases develop and create suitable conditions for pests. The plant struggles to survive, severely depleting the soil. The berries become smaller and the harvest deteriorates.

For normal development and growth of raspberries it is necessary ongoing care. It consists of thinning the crop throughout the season. The first pruning is carried out after planting in the ground. The bush must be shortened to 40 cm and mulched. Thanks to these actions, the raspberry rhizome grows quickly and produces many replacement shoots and root suckers.

Since there is no particular point in constantly thinning out remontant raspberries, because their shoots are renewed annually due to autumn pruning, in this article we will look at pruning regular raspberries.

Spring thinning of raspberries

In early spring, when the temperature has set above zero and the snow has melted, the raspberry bushes are inspected. Dry, broken, underdeveloped shoots are removed with garden pruners. Diseased and frozen parts are cut out. So that the plant has enough air and light, leave about 10 - 15 trunks per linear meter. The remaining stems are cut at the root. All the remaining ones are shortened by 20 - 25 cm so that the bush is about 1.5 m in height. This technique stimulates the growth of side shoots. Racemose inflorescences subsequently form on them. In addition, the bushes will not grow in height, and the saved food will go to the berries.

Summer thinning

Raspberry is a plant prone to active growth, which requires control of the development of young shoots. Two-year-old shoots, gradually darkening, become woody and, at the end of fruiting, dry out. In their place, replacement shoots grow intensively. After picking the berries, it is necessary to cut out the two-year-old stems without leaving a stump, since they will no longer bear fruit and require nutrition. In addition, two-year-old shoots create strong shading, preventing young shoots from developing. At the same time, it is necessary to remove weak annual shoots up to 50 cm long, growing in groups ( root suckers). This procedure is carried out repeatedly during the summer.

Sometimes many young shoots grow from one rhizome. To prevent the gap between plantings from becoming overgrown, shoots are left only within a radius of 20–30 cm, the rest are removed. No need to be afraid to remove excess green mass, since it takes away nutrients from the fruiting raspberry shoots, solar energy, moisture reserves and space for fresh air. The strongest shoots are left, the rest are removed with a shovel or pruning shears. All plants that grow beyond the raspberry bush are dug up or transplanted into right place. During raspberry flowering, the stems should be regularly inspected to identify diseases. All yellow or wilted shoots and leaves are immediately cut out and burned to remove larvae and spores.

Autumn thinning

15-20 days before the onset of cold weather (in some areas - the end of September, in others - the beginning of October) autumn pruning raspberries If you did not cut out the fruiting stems in the summer, then this must be done in the fall. Carefully lifting the shoots, carefully examine the bushes. Old shoots that have borne fruit are identified. Those who are sick, broken or withered are not allowed through. And also thin, frail and underdeveloped processes. Acute garden pruning shears everything is cut out at the root, without leaving stumps. Removed shoots and shoots are burned. In a raspberry garden there should be about 60 cm between the bushes. The space between the plants is cleared of young growth with a shovel. In this way, unnecessary greenery, weeds, and pests are destroyed. There is additional access to air and sunlight to the plants. This has a very beneficial effect on the future harvest.

Thanks to timely pruning, strong and healthy plants. Raspberry bushes will delight bountiful harvest fragrant and juicy berries.

Raspberry is a berry that contains a large amount of vitamins and other useful components. It is she who saves in winter from colds and flu, increases and strengthens the immune system. Plus, it's delicious and sweet. Children are happy to eat berries in the summer. Raspberry bushes bear fruit well, but to big harvest, you need to know how to properly care for bushes. And the question is not even about watering the raspberries, but about pruning them.

A common mistake when forming a raspberry bush

Many novice gardeners believe that the larger and taller the bush, the more berries it will ripen. This is wrong. Pruning raspberries is the key to a successful harvest.

For a successful harvest, you need to prune the raspberries.

It must be remembered that shoots only live for 2 years. In the first they grow, in the second they begin to bear fruit. After this, you can safely cut them off. In addition, unkempt big bushes are often susceptible to serious illness. Productivity decreases, berries become small and dry quickly.

Types of raspberry pruning

In order for raspberry bushes to produce a good harvest, they need to be watered, fertilized, and pruned. We will dwell on the last point in more detail.

There are several types of bush pruning:

Raspberries should be trimmed at the root if the bush begins to hurt.

We will tell you further about how to prune correctly.

When is the best time to carry out

Gardeners are still arguing about the best time to prune raspberry bushes. Many people prefer to choose for this autumn period. Manipulations should be carried out with pruning shears. In this case, the cut will be neat and the wound will be small.

It is better to prune with pruning shears.

If you decide to prune raspberries, you need to do this at the end of August, beginning of September, so that there is time for the wounds of the bush to “heal” before the first frost.

Pruning rules

During the process, you must adhere to the following rules:

• Conduct a visual inspection of the raspberry bush . If there are old, damaged, diseased branches, they need to be removed.
• Cut out frail, mostly young shoots . They obviously won't survive the winter.
• The same goes for two-year-old shoots. No matter how sad it is, we need to get rid of them . They will no longer bear fruit, but they will shade new branches. How to distinguish old shoots? They have hard bark, a darker color, and many side shoots.
• If the raspberries are thick (at square meter more than 10 stems), it also worth thinning out .

Dense raspberries need to be thinned out.

Pruning is carried out at ground level, one might say at the root. Only in this case can you achieve good results and get rid of pests.

Raspberries need to be trimmed at the root.

All branches must be burned, otherwise the insects cannot be destroyed; they adapt well to changing conditions and overwinter well in the ground. After all the manipulations, the raspberries need to be fertilized with iron sulfate.

And you can also start pruning bushes in early spring, when the first snows have melted. But many gardeners are skeptical about this. This is explained by the fact that in recent years March and April are not characterized by stable temperatures; there are often frosts and precipitation. In this case, the cut raspberry tree may freeze, rot and die.

We apply the Sobolev method

Many gardeners use the Sobolev method for pruning raspberries. Next, let's look at what its essence is.

Pruning raspberries is carried out in several stages:

1. Late June - early July . This time was not chosen by chance. During this period, raspberries begin to bear fruit. Berries appear on shoots that have successfully wintered. At this time, young shoots rise from the roots. Their height needs to be controlled. As soon as they reach 90 cm, the tops need to be shortened by at least 10 cm. By the end of August, thin branches will appear from the leaves, before the first frost they will strengthen and reach a length of 30–40 cm;
2. The second stage should be carried out in early spring . Without waiting for the leaves to appear, it is necessary to once again shorten the branches, the growth of which was provoked at the first stage of pruning. In this case, you will get a full-fledged raspberry bush that will give an excellent harvest.

After harvesting, the branch must be cut at the root.

As soon as you collect the berries, the branches will have to be cut off at the root. This method should be carried out annually. Gardeners say that the yield increases at least 2 times. The raspberries are getting bigger.

Features of pruning remontant raspberries

After harvesting the remontant raspberries, you need to carry out the first pruning.

Recently, remontant types of raspberries have appeared on garden markets. They are characterized by high productivity. Already in the first year you can collect a sufficient number of berries. Let's figure out how to prune these varieties correctly:

• The first pruning should be done after harvesting. . Only dead shoots need to be removed;
• Basic pruning is best done late autumn , but without waiting for frost. Please note that the entire upper (old) part of the raspberry tree is removed, its height should not exceed 5 cm;
• After this, the ground around the bushes must be loosened , thereby you will protect the raspberries from frost;
• The soil needs to be well watered and .

If you want to increase productivity, clear the snow from the bushes in early spring and cover them black film. Fruiting will begin ahead of schedule.

How to increase raspberry yield

Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied before raspberries begin to bear fruit.

To increase raspberry yields, you must follow the following rules:

To get quality harvest, raspberries need to be looked after.

The article gave detailed information about how to properly prune raspberries. This can be done in several ways. Try it and choose the one that is most convenient for you. But also do not forget to take the advice of experienced gardeners. You will see how the amount of harvest will increase several times. In addition to pruning, take care of the bushes: water, loosen, fertilize the soil. Believe me, the quality and quantity of collected berries also depends on these factors.

Video about pruning raspberries

Raspberries are not considered a particularly capricious and whimsical plant. Therefore, many novice gardeners and summer residents mistakenly believe that caring for it is not required at all. But for the abundant fruiting of this berry bush It is necessary to comply with some agrotechnical practices. Pruning is one of the mandatory procedures to ensure a stable harvest.

Why do you need to prune raspberries?

Most raspberry varieties have a two-year development cycle, with flower buds formed exclusively on shoots of the second year of life. Annual stems bear nothing but foliage. Only the next season flowers appear on them and fruits ripen. The branches die and dry out after fruiting, so they must be removed in time. Otherwise, the young animals that replace them will not receive the required amount of nutrients, they will not have time to mature well before winter and may freeze or even die.

Raspberry bushes grow strongly in autumn

Shoots growing from the rhizome appear very actively; in a warm summer, one bush can form more than twenty young branches. During their growth, they intensively draw juices from the main plant, preventing it from developing and bearing fruit normally. If you leave all the grown annual shoots, the raspberry bush will be too thick and impassable. Few berries are produced in these thorny thickets; they smaller in size, and it’s difficult to collect them.

Dense growth does not allow entry into the bush sun rays and interferes with the free circulation of air, which is fraught with the appearance of insect pests and various fungal diseases. Root system raspberries have a powerful and branched a large number adventitious roots, on which root shoots develop ( daughter plants). Root appendages can spread over a distance of more than three meters. To prevent raspberry plantings from turning into wilds, excess young growth must be cut out.

In the absence of proper care, raspberry plantings quickly run wild and turn into impassable thickets

Raspberries become wild very easily. If they are not limited, they quickly spread throughout the area and capture new territories.

When planting raspberries, you must immediately mechanically limit its territory and prevent it from penetrating beyond the boundaries of the allotted area. We dug a ditch about half a meter deep around the entire perimeter and laid sheets of old roofing iron. Then they carefully covered everything with earth and made it next to each other garden path. The barrier significantly reduced the amount of growth. But she still appears periodically, and quite far from the mother bushes.

Video: why autumn pruning of raspberries is needed

Timing for pruning raspberry bushes

It is recommended to carry out autumn pruning as early as possible. It is best to do this immediately after picking the last berries. Some gardeners do not wait for the entire ovary to ripen and cut out the raspberries already in mid-August. In this option, all the vitality of the plant will go to the benefit of this year’s young growth. Fresh shoots will be strong, strong and will have time to become woody before the onset of cold weather. This will guarantee good fruiting for next year.

Raspberries should be cut as early as possible

Old branches are always the source of spawning harmful insects and infectious diseases, which are especially active in the warm autumn season. The faster you get rid of last year's shoots, the healthier the raspberry tree will be next year. In warm southern regions, the crop can bear fruit repeatedly, so they take their time with pruning and carry out this procedure closer to mid-autumn. It is important to do it at least 15–20 days before the onset of frost.

Features of pruning raspberry bushes in autumn

Autumn pruning of raspberries has a number of features that you need to know to achieve good result. All branches must be cut to the very root, no stumps are left. For work, use sharpened garden pruners, preferably with ratchet mechanism, which is characterized by increased power.

You need to trim the raspberry stems right to the root.

In autumn, raspberry bushes are cut as follows:

1. First, the plantings are carefully inspected and everything to be removed is selected.
2. Remove shoots damaged by pests or diseased so that they do not infect neighbors.
3. Broken and weakened elongated branches also need to be removed.
4. Young shoots that have recently emerged from the roots must be pruned. Their wood will not have time to ripen and they will not survive frosts.
5. Last year's branches that bear fruit are cut out. They can be easily distinguished by the presence large quantity lateral branches and along dark brown, cracked in places, bark.

Raspberry shoots of different ages look very different

Raspberry plantings need to be thinned out; it is recommended to leave about 7–10 strong and strong stems in each bush. In this case, you need to try to ensure that the branches do not block each other, but are arranged in a fan-shape. The distance between neighboring plants should be at least 0.6 m. Therefore, if the raspberries have grown too much, excess lateral shoots should be removed. Branches that extend beyond the boundaries of the plantings are also cut down.

At the end of the work, all cut raspberry branches and leaves must be collected and burned.

All cut branches must be burned

Pruning of remontant raspberry varieties is done a little differently. Experts recommend cutting off all stems completely, leaving stumps no more than 2–3 cm high. The procedure is best done in late autumn, after the first frost, or even in winter. Young shoots will appear from the rhizomes in the spring, which will bear fruit in mid- or late summer. If you leave these branches, then in June there will be berries on them, but this will greatly weaken the bush and the young shoots will grow frail. Therefore, autumn fruiting on annual shoots will also be weak.

Using a lopper to cut raspberries is much more convenient.

Raspberries are difficult to prune because they are prickly. Small light needles dig into the skin and are very difficult to get out later. The procedure of pruning raspberry bushes is never particularly enjoyable. You have to wear thick clothes and thick tops that protect your hands. A few years ago, we started using long-handled loppers instead of pruning shears. You can simply work with thin fabric gloves. You can even pull out a cut branch with the same tool by biting it a little and holding it between the working blades.

Video: how to prune raspberries in autumn

Pruning raspberries in summer

Due to the tendency of raspberries to grow, it is necessary to limit the growth of excess root shoots so that they do not take away the vitality of the mother plant. Numerous shoots that appear at a distance of more than 0.2–0.3 m from the bush must be ruthlessly cut down. This is done regularly; the density of plantings should be controlled throughout the growing season. You don’t even have to remove the sprout itself, but simply stick a shovel into the ground next to it at a slight angle to cut the root that feeds it. Experienced gardeners It is advised to immediately identify a certain number of strong stems (10–14 pieces), which will bear fruit next year, and periodically destroy the rest of the unnecessary shoots.

Excess young raspberry shoots need to be cut out

The raspberry tree needs to be constantly inspected and yellowing foliage, diseased shoots and all suspicious branches must be promptly removed. Removed elements must be burned to stop the development of infection and protect the remaining plantings.

At the end of the harvest, the fruit-bearing branches only waste the juices of the plant, so they need to be cut out immediately.

They only leave required quantity shoots, the rest are removed

Raspberry growths have to be removed several times during the summer. This is easier to do with a small sharp metal spatula. When it is stuck into the ground, the feeding root is cut off and the shoot is dug up. If you go around the plantings about once a week and remove unnecessary young growth, then this process takes very little time.

Pruning raspberry bushes using the Sobolev method

Two-stage pruning according to Sobolev has gained great popularity among summer residents and gardeners. The method got its name in honor of the most authoritative Russian gardener Alexander Georgievich Sobolev, who is the founder of raspberry farming in our country.

Sobolev A.G. developed a method for double pruning raspberries

Pruning raspberry branches is carried out in two stages:

1. At the very end of May or beginning of June, when the fresh shoots of this year reach a height of 0.8–1 m (determined by the specific variety), its tops are pinched to 12–15 cm. The success of the entire event depends on the timing of it. Being late with the first pruning will result in the shoots not having time to ripen and gain strength by winter. There is a high probability of them freezing during winter cold. After this procedure, the growth of the branch in height stops and the side shoots begin to rapidly develop. Literally 2-3 days later, the first small shoots are already noticeable in the upper sinuses. By autumn, instead of a lonely shoot, a large and powerful stem is formed with several lateral branches, reaching half a meter in length.
2. The following spring, after the foliage appears, the second stage of pruning is carried out. Now the side branches are shortened, they are pruned by 10–15 cm. This is done to stimulate dormant buds, which then form fresh shoots. By the time fruiting begins, their number increases many times. Each raspberry bush is literally strewn with buds, flowers, ovaries and ripe fruits. The duration of fruiting increases greatly, the berries ripen from the beginning of July until the coldest weather.

According to Sobolev, pruning raspberries is carried out in two stages

The disadvantage of this method is excessive and strong fouling of raspberry bushes, leading to serious overcrowding of the plantings. The ventilation of the raspberry tree deteriorates, most of the branches remain in the shade, as a result of which the plants are more often affected by insect pests and various infectious diseases. For warning undesirable consequences Raspberry bushes are placed at a greater distance from each other. At least one meter is left between adjacent specimens, and the rows are spaced apart by at least two meters.

Formative pruning has several nuances:

• in the first year, do not leave more than 10 branches on one plant;
• the next season, the old shoots that bear fruit are replaced with new ones, but their number is reduced to 8;
• 2 replacement stems are harvested every year;
• on last stage it is necessary to leave 4 formed young branches.

After double pruning, the raspberry bushes bear fruit very abundantly and are literally strewn with berries.

In this case, the raspberry yield will be maximum. But plantings must be thoroughly thinned out throughout the growing season, and unnecessary growth must be removed in a timely manner.

The Sobolev method allows you to collect up to 6 kg of berries from one raspberry bush.

Video: how to prune raspberries using the Sobolev method

How to increase raspberry yields

It is not always that gardeners can boast of a good raspberry harvest. Most often, the reason lies in illiterate care of the crop.

You can increase productivity if you follow a few simple rules:

1. Thin out the raspberry tree in a timely manner and control its width. With an excessive number of shoots and strong thickening, the berries become smaller and their number is reduced. The optimal width for raspberry plantings is no more than 40–50 cm.

   

   

   It is necessary to prune fruit-bearing branches as early as possible so that they do not take away the juices from young shoots

2. Plant raspberry bushes in well-filled beds with organic matter, and then regularly feed the plantings:
   
3. Mulch the soil in the raspberry patch with rotted manure or humus in early spring after harvesting dry leaves.

   

   You need to pour a layer of mulch under the raspberry bushes.

4. Provide sufficient watering. With a lack of moisture, the resulting fresh shoots become pale, lethargic and painful, then gradually wither. The crop loves good moisture; a lack of moisture can have longer-term consequences, expressed in a meager harvest for the next year. But this year the fruits will be small and few in number. Plantings need to be watered not only during active fruit harvesting, but also during the formation of young shoots. The soil should be soaked to a depth of approximately 25–30 cm; this will require 40–50 liters of water per 1 m2. The plantings are moistened twice a week; on hot, hot days they are watered every other day.

   

   Raspberries love good watering

5. It is good to prepare raspberry bushes for wintering. The stems are tied into bunches and bent to the ground as close as possible. In winter, it is recommended to cover the plantings with additional snow.

   

   Raspberry stems need to be bent to the ground for the winter.

6. Regularly rejuvenate old plantings every 5–7 years; to do this, partially remove the decrepit rhizomes. After 10–12 years, it is recommended to change the planting location of the crop.

   

   Old raspberry bushes need to be periodically rejuvenated

7. Protect raspberries from pests and diseases. It is recommended to carry out preventative treatments decoctions of plants with insecticidal properties (marigold, wormwood, tansy, mustard, etc.). Spraying is used to prevent infection copper sulfate(0.3 kg) and fluff (0.4 kg), diluted in 10 liters of water (10 liters of solution per 100 m2). Treatments with solutions are effective:
   
8. Use double pruning according to the Sobolev method. There is a modified version of spring pruning of raspberry bushes, according to which the tops of the shoots of some plants are only slightly shortened. In another part of the bushes, the stems are cut off by about a third, and several bushes are subjected to radical pruning - they are left no more than 10–15 cm long. With this option, the duration of fruiting increases. Lightly pruned branches produce a harvest earlier, and on radically pruned stems the berries will ripen towards the end of summer.

   

   The Sobolev pruning method has proven its effectiveness

Except proper care For raspberries, the key to a good harvest will be a well-chosen planting site. The culture prefers well-lit places, protected from gusty winds, with loose soil of a slightly acidic alkaline reaction. The choice of variety is also given great importance. Buy planting material recommended only in trusted places and from reliable suppliers.

You can increase raspberry yields if you follow a number of simple rules.

Formation of a raspberry bush

The ground part of the raspberry bush can be formed in various ways. The crop requires reliable support, which allows the branches to be distributed evenly and makes harvesting much easier.

Depending on the type of support, forming systems are divided into the following types:

It is best to form raspberry bushes in early spring before the buds open. Carrying out work later is dangerous due to the breaking off of the emerging sprouts.

You cannot neglect gartering raspberry stems, since with thickened and poorly ventilated plantings there is a high probability of fungal pathologies and insect pests.

With the trellis method, it is not always necessary to fix each branch

On our raspberry garden we use a variation of the double trellis. At the corners of the plantation, 4 metal pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of almost 2 m are driven in; between them there are intermediate supports, which are pipes of the same size with metal crossbars 40 cm long attached to it at different heights (50, 100 and 150 cm). . Steel wire stretched along their edges. The raspberry shoots are supported by three horizontal rows of wire on each side; we do not tie each branch separately.

Video: gartering raspberries on a trellis

Raspberries are capable of bearing fruit in almost any conditions, but to obtain a full-fledged bountiful harvest this delicious and very healthy berries you will have to work hard. By following the agricultural techniques for growing this crop, even an inexperienced novice gardener will achieve good results.