Experienced flower growers You are probably familiar with a plant such as fuchsia. Among the features of this flower, it is worth highlighting the elegant appearance, as well as a long flowering period. However, for many, this plant is interesting for its unpretentiousness, so if you have planting material, you can grow fuchsia, even without special knowledge, ready to please the owner bright flowers.
Description, main varieties and types
Depending on the characteristics, fuchsia can take the form of an ampelous plant, a shrub or a low-growing tree. In development forms flexible shoots, which provide a cascading crown. The leaves have small sizes and reach a length of 5 cm, characteristic color- bright green, oval in shape, with a pointed end.
Fuchsia can have flowers of different shades, ranging from white and pink to blue and purple. Among them there are some that are quite amazing in their shape: in the form of bells or dancing ballerinas. This pronounced decorative effect is explained by the unusual structure of the flower. The petals are formed from a tubular corolla and, at the stage of full opening, form fluffy skirts, reminiscent of a group of dancers. The long stamens complementing them are very similar to slender legs dressed in pointe shoes.
Popular varieties
Wide species diversity this plant did not go unnoticed by breeders, and subsequently they served as the basis for the development of new varieties and hybrids. For home grown mainly hybrid forms are intended. Depending on height allocate the following types fuchsia:
- bush. They have smooth shoots that face upward;
- ampelous. They form flexible stems that are cascading;
- hanging-bush. To give them a characteristic shape, they need support so that long stems can be tied to it.
Within the framework of bush fuchsias, the following varieties can be distinguished, which most often used for growing in floor containers:
Many gardeners often choose to grow at home and ampel varieties of fuchsia. The latter attract attention with shoots that curl and hang from hanging baskets and flowerpots. The most popular of them are the following:
- Hollies Beauty. During flowering, double white-pink flowers are formed;
- Prince of Peace. This variety is decorated with flowers formed by white sepals and a red skirt;
- Blue Angel. The originality of this variety is given by flowers having a lilac-violet color, which is effectively complemented by white sepals;
- Imperial Crown. It produces scarlet-colored flowers with an elongated shape, which are presented in the form of brushes.
Caring for a plant at home
The usual habitat of this plant is South America And New Zealand where it grows in conditions high humidity air. Accordingly, the same care must be provided to fuchsias in a city apartment, for which it is necessary to carry out regular spraying. Replanting and pruning are mandatory for the normal development of perennials. Fuchsia is sensitive to lighting, so moving a pot with a flower to another place or even turning it can greatly affect its development.
If the fuchsia was purchased in a pot with enough space for growth, then replanting will not be necessary. If everything points to the opposite, then it is recommended to find a more suitable plant for spacious capacity. It is best to replant fuchsia in a light container. Due to the improved reflective ability of such a container, the plant will be protected from overheating.
In the future, the plant should be replanted annually. Before performing this operation, the following preparatory measures must be carried out:
- preventive and stimulating pruning. Healthy shoots are cut by one third, and old, dry and too elongated shoots must be completely removed;
- checking the condition of the rhizome. Based on its results, you can understand whether the plant has signs of disease or rotting. Identified affected areas must be trimmed back to healthy tissue;
- laying drainage in a container prepared for transplantation. It is recommended that it occupy at least 1/5 of the height of the pot.
After planting, fuchsia must water and spray well. Feeding can be done only three weeks after transplantation.
Soil composition and soil fertilizers
Fuchsia can grow in almost any soil. Therefore, before transplanting, the pot can be filled with a universal earth mixture For indoor plants. However, the plant will feel best in soil with a loose structure, for which it will not hurt to add sand, peat or ash. If you plan to prepare yourself soil mixture for transplantation, then you can include the following components:
- leaf soil, peat, sand (in ratios 3:2:1);
- turf soil, humus, peat, compost (2:1:1:1).
When the plant begins to grow after transplantation, as well as during flowering, it is necessary to fertilize with complex mineral fertilizers once a week. These can be drugs such as “Kemir”, “Effekton”, “Pokon for geraniums”. Fertilizers are applied to the soil for the first time in March. Gradually their number is increased. As autumn approaches, the volume of fertilizers applied is reduced, and in winter they must be completely eliminated.
Pruning fuchsia
It is necessary to prune ampelous fuchsia throughout the entire growing season. Without this, it is impossible to create favorable conditions for normal growth and abundant flowering. For the first time fuchsia is necessary pinch after rooting the cuttings. In the future, it should be pruned throughout the spring until it enters the flowering phase. In summer, you need to pay attention to the longest shoots, which will begin to bloom in the fall.
To create a beautiful crown, it is necessary to trim the side shoots located above every 2-4 pairs of leaves. As a result of this procedure, the plant will be able to acquire a standard form. But this is only possible if there is a support to which the central shoot will have to be tied, while the side branches must be removed.
Watering and lighting
The plant grows and develops well if watered in moderation. Throughout the growing season it is necessary to maintain optimal humidity soil in a pot, but the water in it should not stagnate. During care after the next watering, you must wait 15 minutes, and then drain the remaining water formed in the pan. With the onset of autumn, the number of waterings is reduced to 1-2 times a month. In winter, fuchsia does not need to be watered.
To create the most favorable conditions for plant development, it is desirable to maintain elevated air humidity conditions. To do this, in addition to watering, it is necessary to spray the leaves. An effective measure is to place a container filled with water near the pot.
Fuchsia loves moderate heat conditions and also responds well to diffused lighting. However, it does not tolerate shading. It is advisable to place the flower pot on the balcony or on the western or eastern side, where it will be provided sunlight in the mornings or evenings.
Optimal temperature
In order for fuchsia not only to grow well, but also to form many inflorescences, it needs to be provided appropriate temperature regime. Favorable temperatures for it are + 20.. + 22 degrees Celsius during the day and + 16... + 18 degrees Celsius at night. If the ambient temperature is higher than recommended, the gardener runs the risk of not waiting for flowering, and may also encounter unpleasant phenomenon like shedding leaves. On particularly hot days, the plant requires additional moisture, for which it is recommended to spray with settled cool water.
Fuchsia begins to feel bad even with good care if the temperature does not reach the recommended level. Therefore, in winter, to protect against cold weather, it is recommended to place polystyrene foam or wooden plank.
If you want this perennial to produce many flowers every season, then you need to provide it with proper care. If such a need arises, you can get from it and planting material for reproduction. There are many possibilities for this, since young plants can be obtained both from seeds and from cuttings and leaves.
Propagation by seeds
If you decide to get new fuchsia seedlings from seeds at home, keep in mind that this process will require a lot of time and effort. First of all, you need to stock up on quality seeds. To do this, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the mother plant, preventing its flower from self-pollinating. This can be done by carrying out the following activities:
- removing anthers from a recently opened flower;
- transfer of pollen from the paternal plant to the stigma;
- protecting flowers after pollination by covering them with a fabric or paper bag.
After a couple of weeks, the fruit reaches the maturity stage. After opening it, take out the seeds and let them dry for several days. For planting, use shallow containers filled with moist substrate. Seeds should be placed on the surface of the soil.
After sowing, the bowls with seeds must be transferred to the greenhouse, where they should be created optimal temperature And good lighting. After 10-15 days it happens seed germination. After another 1.5 months, the time comes to pick the seedlings. Subsequently, the young shoots are hardened, for which they need to be taken out for a while Fresh air. The first time, hardening should be short - no more than 15 minutes, but later the residence time of the seedlings is increased. After another two months, the seedlings are transplanted into individual pots.
Conclusion
Fuchsia is deservedly popular among many gardeners. Such increased interest in it is primarily due to its unpretentiousness. Not to mention the fact that it blooms very profusely, and if necessary, can be propagated without much difficulty. However, as is the case with other indoor plants, you can propagate fuchsia at home only if you necessary measures. Therefore, if you prepare the flower itself accordingly, select the optimal soil composition, and also create favorable conditions for rooting and growth, then you can count on the fuchsia to quickly take root and very soon begin to bloom profusely.
Fuchsia flower
Fuchsia is loved and appreciated by flower growers for its beautiful decorative look and ease of care. The flower is also suitable for those who have just started growing house plants in their apartment.
Origin
Fuchsia (Fuchsia) belongs to the perennials from the fireweed family; over 90 varieties are known. IN natural conditions this plant is found in South and Central America, in New Zealand and grows there as a perennial evergreen shrub. The most favorable conditions for growing fuchsia are fog, a slightly shaded growing area, high humidity and coolness.
Description
At home, hybrid fuchsia is grown, which was bred two centuries ago, and since then, breeders have developed dozens of varieties based on this species.
IN wildlife This shrub has very flexible shoots, abundantly strewn with foliage. The foliage of this perennial is emerald green, sometimes has a red tint, is oval in shape, and is located opposite on the branches. The leaves themselves are slightly pointed at the ends, with small teeth along the edges.
The abundant flowering of this shrub attracts attention - the flowers look like small lanterns that hang down and consist of a sepal and a corolla with ends bent in opposite directions. The sepal blades are longer than the petals, the stamens are long and protrude from the flower. The flowers themselves grow on long drooping stalks, and the color varies from white to orange, red cream, lilac, violet.
There are flowers whose petals had several different shades. The fruits of fuchsia are berries, and they are edible.
This shrub can be given any shape by pruning. And as a result, this flower becomes like a ball, cube or other figure according to the gardener’s plan.
Caring for this indoor plant
The main requirement, if the gardener decides to grow this flowering bush at home, is to find it in the apartment appropriate place. Moreover, it is not recommended to move the flower - a flowering perennial is sensitive to such rearrangements. If this is done even rarely, the fuchsia withers, loses foliage, and reduces the growth rate of the vegetative mass. It is better to place the fuchsia pot in a place where the flower will not be disturbed by direct sunlight, and the light will be bright but diffused.
In the autumn winter period, when daylight hours are shortened, fluorescent lamps (or other artificial lighting), so that daylight hours are at least 12 hours.
If there is not enough light for the flower, then the fuchsia will stretch upward, but flowering will stop.
In spring and summer, the room temperature should be 19...20C. An increase in temperature negatively affects the general condition of the flower. Therefore, in summer it is advisable to take the plant out into the fresh air (to the balcony or loggia). For the winter, the flower is transferred to a cool room, where the temperature is kept within +9...+11C.
Watering and air humidity
The plant requires year-round watering. In the spring-summer period, fuchsia is watered frequently and abundantly, but in the autumn-winter period the amount of moisture added is reduced. Do not overwater the flower - this is harmful to the root system, which may begin to rot. The next watering is carried out when upper layer the soil will dry out completely.
The air humidity in the room should be about 75-80%, so it should be regularly sprayed or wiped with a wet cloth. Place trays of water nearby and arrange a light for the plant
shower. Water for irrigation and spraying is left to settle for 24 hours; the temperature should be at least +20⸰С.
This plant needs to be fertilized regularly, otherwise the plant will bloom poorly. But too much a large number of fertilizing is also harmful - in this case, the flower sharply increases the vegetative mass, and the number of flowers will be small, and the flowers themselves will be weak.
Experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing this flowering perennial once every 12 to 14 days. It is better to use special complex fertilizers For flowering plants. Moreover, fertilizers are applied only in spring and summer, and in the winter they stop feeding fuchsias.
Perennial pruning
This indoor shrub It is necessary to trim regularly, since with good care the flower grows very actively. But this is more likely not pruning, but pinching the tops of the shoots. In this case, the shrub grows better, side shoots form more actively, and the plant itself becomes healthier.
The rooted seedling is pinched for the first time (10 - 14 days after planting the cuttings in the pot). Then this procedure is repeated regularly in the spring until the fuchsia begins to bloom.
Very beautiful shape The plants are obtained if all the stems are regularly cut off when 4 to 5 permanent leaves appear on them.
Typically, the pinching procedure is repeated only when the shoots grow after a previous similar procedure.
Perennial transplantation
These bushes do not require regular transfers. This procedure is carried out when the fuchsia roots come out of the drainage hole. In this case, take a flowerpot bigger size(both in height and width). Use clay or ceramic pots, the main thing is that they contain drainage hole, and a layer of expanded clay or other drainage material is poured onto the bottom.
The drainage layer is 5 cm. Soil for replanting is purchased in a specialized store, or prepared independently. In this case, take equal parts of high-moor peat, compost and humus and twice as much river sand
. For more active flowering, bone meal is added to the resulting substrate (15–20 g per 1 kg of soil).
Propagation of flowering perennial
This flowering perennial is propagated by seeds or cuttings. When the shoots are pruned, cuttings remain, which are used to propagate fuchsia. In order for the cuttings to develop roots, they are placed in glasses of water or dropped in a container filled with a soil mixture of river sand and vermiculite.
When propagated by seeds, they are placed in boxes filled with a nutrient substrate of sand and vermiculite. When the shoots appear and produce several permanent leaves, they are transplanted into separate pots.
Why does the bush stop blooming?
Sometimes the plant does not begin to bloom in the spring. This happens especially often among beginning flower growers. One of the main reasons for this is improper care of the plant during the autumn-winter period. In winter, the room temperature is reduced to +8...+10C so that the plant, which is at rest, does not begin unplanned growth. When the air temperature rises, the duration is artificially increased. daylight hours
, as well as the brightness of the lighting.
If the pinching procedure was not carried out in a timely manner, as well as pruning the shoots, then this also affects the beginning of flowering of the perennial. All weak, diseased and broken branches should be removed in a timely manner. The pruning procedure is carried out in the spring, when the fuchsia is actively growing but not yet blooming; pruning and pinching again is carried out in the fall, after flowering has ended.
If a flower is transferred to a cold room for the winter, then before doing this all shoots should be cut off by at least 1/3 of their length.
If the plant is left warm for the winter, then it is pruned only once per season - in the last ten days of February or in the first ten days of March. By pinching, the plant is given the desired shape, and it depends only on the desire and imagination of the grower. To form ampelous type In shoots, the fourth leaves on the branches must be pinched. When forming the entire bush, the third pairs of leaves are removed. In the upper part of the bushes, do not do more than two pinchings, and in the lower part, excess shoots are removed once so that the plant faster start
blossom.
The main mistakes in growing fuchsias
- Experienced gardeners usually do not make mistakes when growing and caring for these indoor perennials. But novice lovers of home flowering perennials often make the following mistakes:
- place fuchsia in a room that is too hot;
- do not provide the flower with enough light;
placed in direct sunlight. In this case, both above-ground and fuchsia: the root system begins to deteriorate, buds and flowers dry out and fall off, and the plant itself slows down or completely stops growth. Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil with a small amount of phosphorus and potassium added also harms the flower - shoots begin to grow too quickly, and the root system and buds practically do not develop.
If the pot is too small for the root system, the fuchsia stops flowering (or does not begin to bloom at all). It should be remembered that the volume of the pot must correspond to the size of the fuchsia roots.
Pests, diseases
At proper care These perennials are practically not susceptible to diseases, and pests do not attack them. If the owners notice any problems when growing a flower, then it is necessary to immediately begin the fight. Otherwise, fuchsia may begin to wither.
The causes of the onset of diseases can be:
- improper flower care;
- damage to the perennial by fungal diseases, or attack by “harmful” bugs.
But most often the plant begins to wither if both of the above reasons are present at the same time. With good care, neither diseases nor pests are harmful to a healthy, strong flower.
Diseases associated with damage to the root system and foliage
Signs of such diseases appear almost immediately. An attentive florist will immediately notice that indoor flower not everything is fine.
Fuchsias have strong, powerful, white roots. If they suddenly become soft to the touch and their color turns brown, the plant has been attacked by root rot. This happens due to too much moisture in the soil. And even drainage is not always able to help.
To cure a plant, you should remove the flower from the pot and rinse thoroughly root system warm water. The affected areas of the roots are cut off sharp knife. The cut areas are treated with charcoal. The plant is then placed in a container of water. When the fuchsia begins to grow healthy roots, it can be planted in a flowerpot with new soil.
Also dangerous for the plant and gray rot, which affects foliage and stems. The fight against the disease is as follows: remove the affected above-ground parts, reduce air humidity, and regularly ventilate the room.
Watch also the video about fuchsias:
The tropical guest, fuchsia, has so charmed lovers of indoor flowering plants that today it has many cultivated varieties and hybrids. Fans of fuchsia call it the prima in the “theater” of flowers for the unusual shapes and colors of the buds, lush flowering, invariably pleasing to the eye of even the most demanding critic.
Features of growing fuchsia - a brief description
Essentially, fuchsias are small trees (no more than 1 m tall) or shrubs with thin flexible branches. Therefore, fuchsia can be grown upright (standard tree), bush or hanging plant.
It’s not for nothing that flower growers admire fuchsia so much. She is beautiful not only in appearance. The resulting hybrid has a light character and extreme unpretentiousness. It contains everything best qualities, which a flower can have. The most valuable of them is the ability to flower in the first year of life.
Fuchsia blooms beautifully with early spring until the first frost. Moreover, she feels equally good as in flower pot, and on garden bed. In winter, the flower needs a good rest.
Fuchsia breeding is not required special labor and special knowledge. However, there are some subtleties in care.
Planting fuchsia
To get a strong healthy plant you need to choose it correct soil and a pot. Best planted in pots light color. This is explained by the fact that fuchsia does not tolerate heat very well, and such a pot does not heat up in the sun as much as a dark one.
Fuchsia prefers cramped potty, it is better to gradually transplant it into a more spacious one. Although good air circulation is very important for this houseplant, it is still advisable to compact the soil so that it supports the flower. Be sure to line the bottom of the pot with expanded clay for better breathability and moisture.
Planting methods
Fuchsia can be planted by seeds or cuttings. This home flower produces seeds well. A few months after planting, you can get from the seeds young plant. Cuttings also take root well. Fuchsias can also be propagated using woody stems in a small greenhouse.
Optimal time for planting
It is better to plant cuttings in early summer, and planting woody stems in August. The seeds are planted after the fruit has ripened.
Soil for the plant
Fuchsia loves loose soil. The optimal composition of the substrate should include equal shares peat, sand, humus, leaf and turf soil. The soil must be neutral.
There are several nuances in caring for this indoor plant that the gardener needs to know about in order to get the desired result - a lush and long-blooming flower.
Location and lighting for the plant
The placement of the fuchsia determines the color of its flowers. buds delicate flowers They tolerate bright light less well, it is better for them to create an openwork shadow, and dark flowers prefer more sun. Both of them cannot stand direct sun rays– the flowers begin to fade and the leaves begin to burn. Therefore, place flowers in beds or flowerpots on outdoors or on the balcony it is better so that the direct sun does not hit them. If fuchsia lives only in an apartment, the preferred place for it is on the north or east side.
Important! Keeping fuchsia outdoors has its advantages - the plant suffers less from pests.
Air humidity
Fuchsia loves a humid atmosphere and absolutely does not tolerate high temperature. If the plant is located outside, the atmosphere there is most suitable for it. For indoor keeping, daily spraying is necessary. This should be done before sunset. In sunlight, this procedure is contraindicated for the flower.
Temperature regime for a flower
The optimal temperature is +18 - +24 degrees in summer and +10 - +12 degrees in winter. Keeping it in a warm room during winter may result in the plant not blooming next year.
How to water correctly
Since fuchsia is moisture-loving, it needs abundant watering during the flowering period. The water must be defended. The signal for the next watering is the dried top layer of soil. You should not overwater or allow water to stagnate in the pot, as the roots will quickly begin to rot. In autumn, watering is sharply reduced.
Important! In winter, fuchsia should be watered so that it does not dry out. earthen lump.
Feeding and fertilizing the plant
Fuchsia needs to be fed only from the moment it produces its first buds. It is enough to fertilize it once a week or two. For feeding, complex fertilizers for flowering indoor or balcony plants. There is no need to get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers. They need to be added 1-2 times in the spring. Fertilizer is applied in liquid form. Gradually decreases in autumn. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.
Important! The plant does not bloom until the fuchsia “eats” everything it has been overfed with. So don't overuse fertilizers.
Pruning fuchsia is an operation required twice a year. The first time it is carried out at the end of the flowering period - at the end of September or beginning of October - before sending it for wintering. During autumn pruning All faded peduncles, flowers and leaves are removed. The second pruning is carried out to rejuvenate the plant.
Trimming methods
Autumn:
- cut off the faded shoots 2 cm above the dormant buds. They are easy to spot on branches.
- Carefully remove the seed pods, unless propagation by seeds is planned.
During autumn pruning, pests are removed and the plant is treated if necessary.
In spring:
- Once again we cut off the young shoots that fuchsia is already producing by this time. They are shortened by 2-3 pairs of leaves.
- In ampelous fuchsia, the sprouts are shortened so that they barely hang over the edge of the flowerpot.
- For other types of fuchsia, a beautiful shape is simply formed by pruning.
Some gardeners do formative pruning in January.
Important! To limit the crown, it is good to pinch out young shoots. It should be carried out no later than the second half of May, so as not to delay the beginning of flowering.
Transfer
Replanting, and annual replanting, is mandatory for fuchsias. After wintering, the flower is transplanted into new soil into a larger pot. It is not recommended to use very spacious pots; they are only 2-4 cm wider than the previous one.
Bush and ampel fuchsia should be completely renewed every 4-5 years, since during this time they still lose their shape, despite anti-aging pruning.
Transplant methods
Fuchsia is replanted by simple transshipment. To do this, take out the flower with a lump of earth, carefully free the roots from it and transplant it into a new substrate. You can simply replace the top layers of soil at a depth of 3-4 cm. This method can only be used for old flowers. We transplant young plants by transferring them into new pots.
There are several ways to propagate fuchsia, they have slight differences and different purposes. Fuchsia seeds are propagated only by those who like to experiment and create new hybrid, in other words, exclusively for selection. It is propagated by cuttings to renew the plant. Best time for cuttings - spring.
Reproduction methods
Cuttings
Young cuttings from 10 to 20 cm are suitable for this. Before lowering the cutting into water, you need to remove all the lower leaves from the stem so that they do not fall into the water. Otherwise, they will begin to rot and infect the entire cutting. You can cover the sprout plastic bag so that a lot of moisture does not evaporate. This must be done if the leaves become limp. Fuchsia cuttings very readily sprout roots in water; within a week there may be several of them. You can immediately transplant the cutting into a pot; it will take root well in the soil. On average, the process takes about two weeks.
Cuttings from a woody branch
It is better to immediately plant such cuttings in peat soil and organize a small greenhouse for them. They will take root perfectly right in the ground, although this will take more time - three weeks.
Propagation by seeds is a rather labor-intensive process.
This is due to the fact that if you need to get seeds, you need to protect the fuchsia from pollination. The anthers are removed and a cover made of paper or fabric is put on the flower, secured at the bottom with threads. Then the ripe fruit is removed, the seeds are taken out and dried. Sowing is done superficially; the seeds are not sprinkled with soil. Then the pallet needs to be placed in the greenhouse. After 14 days, shoots appear, and after two months they can be planted in separate pots. Young plants should be gradually accustomed to a normal environment, as they may die.
Blooming fuchsia is very diverse and spectacular, and decorates a house or garden for a long time.
When a plant blooms, the shape of the flower
Fuchsia has a long flowering period - from early June to late September. There are some varieties that bloom from April to October and from July to January, so it is difficult to determine the general flowering period for the species.
The shapes and colors are very diverse and depend, again, on the plant variety. Some have cluster-shaped inflorescences, some bloom with individual flowers of an elongated tubular shape, at the end of which new petals constantly open. Flowers can be regular or double. Garden fuchsia differs from hybrid one, and standard trees are not similar to ampelous or bushy fuchsia.
The color of the buds ranges from soft pink to purple-red and violet. Flowers and sepals may have contrasting colors, such as red sepals and white petals. There is even a separate color called “fuchsia”.
Plant care after flowering
After flowering, it is necessary to carefully free the plant from wilted flowers and faded branches. You should also remove the seed pods. To do this, pruning is done, usually in the fall, as described above.
Problems, diseases and pests of a flower
- Root rotting. For all its moisture-loving nature, fuchsia reacts poorly to excess water. This may result in the appearance of fungus on them. In this case, it is very difficult to save the plant. The main symptom is limp leaves that no longer shine. Cuttings from it most likely will not take root.
- Damage to cuttings by blackleg during rooting. There is no need to save them; it is better to get rid of the diseased sprout immediately.
- Rust on leaves- the same actions. We get rid of the plant.
Important! After eliminating diseased plants, be sure to disinfect the soil in which they were kept with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate.
The main pests that fuchsia is afraid of are whiteflies and spider mite. If the defeat is only at the very beginning, arrange for the flower warm bath+36 - +38 degrees. Then dry it well (not in the sun) and treat the crown and soil with an insecticide. This needs to be done three times once a week. Spray the crown with one of the contact preparations and place in plastic bag. Dry it well again and water the soil with the same preparation, but diluted in water twice. You can use Agravertin or Fitoverm.
Popular types (varieties) of fuchsia
Variety "Alisson Bell"
One of the most beautiful fuchsias, ampelous. The flowers are purple with red sepals. A variety of semi-double fuchsias.
Variety "Annabel"
Can be grown as a bush or as a hanging tree. It has rather large double flowers of a slightly pinkish color.
Variety "Ballerina"
Bush form. The buds are round with a terry skirt and red sepals. The flower itself is white with pink splashes.
Variety "Bonanza"
An ampelous variety with large, double, round-shaped flowers. Contrasting flower– pink sepals and purple petals.
Variety "Philippe"
Bush fuchsia with large flowers, elongated buds and slightly different shades Pink colour sepals and petals.
The most popular varieties for indoor plants are hybrid fuchsia, graceful fuchsia and brilliant fuchsia.
The main difficulty in caring for fuchsia is maintaining the temperature regime in the summer, especially when it is hot. The root system of the plant begins to die due to overheating of the soil in the pots.
- Try to use a ceramic pot for fuchsia. It heats up less in hot weather
- Take the flowers deep into the room during the hottest time of the day or create good shade for it
- You can freeze a lot of ice and cover a flower pot with it in hot weather.
Answers to readers' questions
Plant lifespan
Fuchsia is a long-lived plant. Varieties with lignified stems live a long time. With proper care, they can bloom for up to 20 years. Canopy and bush ones - up to 4-5 years, then they require updating.
Is it possible to keep this plant at home?
This plant can be called both indoor and garden with equal success. After the last frost is over, it is easier to keep it outdoors, although you can create for it good conditions and in the apartment.
Is this flower poisonous?
Fuchsia is a non-poisonous plant.
Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?
Lack of fuchsia flowering can be the result of several care errors:
- Wintering too warm
- Plant overheating
- Overfeeding with fertilizers (late flowering)
- Late pruning and pinching
- Pot too big
- Unsuitable soil
- Excessive watering and death of the root system
Why do the leaves turn yellow (dry) and fall off?
- Perhaps it autumn leaf fall– natural process for fuchsia
- The presence of a pest, in particular spider mites
- Too little light
Why do the buds fall off?
Fuchsia may lose flowers when it is very hot. Or this is a natural process when new buds appear in place of old buds.
Caring for fuchsia in winter?
IN winter time fuchsia needs to create conditions with a fairly low temperature from +10 to +12 degrees. In a warmer room it will not be completely dormant and may not bloom later. If it is not possible to keep it on a loggia or in another room with a low temperature, you need to protect it as much as possible from the heat of radiators and sunlight.
The ancestors of fuchsia are exotic trees and bushes that grew exclusively in New Zealand and Central America. There are many varieties, but the encyclopedia gives only one Fuchsia hybrid or, in Russian, hybrid fuchsia.
Homemade fuchsia flowers have the shape of small bells or, as flower growers say - Chinese lanterns. This variety of varieties can be divided into double and semi-double hybrids, the difference being the number of petals on the corolla.
Fuchsias are rich in many color range their colors: white, purple, ruby, red. There is still the possibility of observing a carpal hybrid - this is when the inflorescences of fuchsia flowers are collected in loose form.
Plant watering mode
Fuchsias, being at home, are completely unpretentious plant. It is very easy to care for.
Watering seasonally:
- Autumn-spring - abundant watering.
- Winter - moderate watering. It is recommended to use settled water, as it is softer and healthier.
- October-November - stop watering. At low air temperatures - no more than 2 times a month.
Lighting requirements
For any fuchsia you need a bright one diffuse light. Location - East or West. Does not tolerate hot daylight, but is content with the morning rays of the sun. When the plant is flowering, it is better not to touch the plant, because the lovely flowers may fall off.
Temperature requirement
During the growing season, 18-25 degrees is enough. In the summer, especially in August, open ground will work well, but it will not be able to withstand more than 30 degrees (leaves and flowers may fall off or begin to dry out). Perfect solution- this is a balcony, terrace, loggia or something like that. To protect the roots from overheating, it is advisable to use large pots from ceramics.
Fertilizer and top dressing for fuchsia
Spraying will have a very beneficial effect, especially during growth. This procedure should be done in the evening or in the morning. They also use a vessel filled with pebbles and water, which is placed next to the plants, thereby creating additional moisture.
Biofertilizers are very effective if the plant is in open ground. If the plant is indoors, then any additives or fertilizers for feeding will do. There is no need to feed the plants, more than once a week, this will be quite enough. In winter, the plant should not be fertilized; generally, the first fertilizing occurs around the end of March.
Fuchsia transplant
A houseplant needs to be replanted once a year and this is done in the spring. Any fertile soil is suitable for fuchsia, which, if you don’t have it at home, can be purchased at the store.
At best, it should include:
- Drainage. Prevents the plant from gaining too much moisture.
- Humus or sand. Used as an additional, useful additive.
- Loam. Used if fuchsia is ground outdoors. Retains moisture.
When transplanting, shoots are cut off - 1/3 of the total length. Be sure to replant the fuchsia into a larger pot.
What is it for? This will give the plant an additional supply of oxygen and is also used as a method of propagation.
Reproduction:
- Propagation using leaves;
- Reproduction by seeds;
- Propagation using cuttings.
Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings
The main suitable period for such breeding is February-March, sometimes August-September. Length - 5-7 cm. For rooting, use a loose medium: water or sand. After approximately 20-25 days, the first, small roots appear, which means the time for transplanting into pots is 7-9 cm.
Compound: leaf and turf soil, humus and sand. Everything is combined 1:1. In order to receive lush bush, several cuttings are planted in one pot at once, so it is possible to get the first flowers already in the same year.
Propagation of fuchsia by seeds
At seed propagation use artificial pollination. By mixing several varieties at the same time, you can get many hybrids.
Propagation of fuchsia by leaves
This propagation occurs as follows: You need to carefully tear off the most developed leaves and place them in loose soil no more than 1 cm, then cover with a glass or plastic lid. With all this, in order to achieve good growth, it is necessary to spray them every day; for this procedure, use a spray bottle with boiled and warm water. Transplanting into pots begins as soon as the first rosettes appear.
The purpose of reproduction is to increase the number of plants.
Fuchsia - diseases and pests
Diseases, in the case of fuchsia - very rare. At high humidity- dewdrops form on the leaves. If the leaves are covered with powdery spots, it is worth spraying the plant with a prepared composition: mix the foundation with water in equal parts.
Healthy leaves are always green leaves without any damage.
Yellow leaves are chlorosis, it occurs from an excess of water saturation or from a lack of magnesium and nitrogen.
Yellowness between the veins of the leaves - manganese is needed.
If the plant has been exposed to dry, brown spots, which means molybdenum is needed.
Like a person - internal organs, so the roots of plants can say a lot about any diseases.
U healthy plants there should be short and white roots. If I intertwine the roots with an earthen ball, it means that it needs to be transplanted into a larger pot than the previous one. If the roots are brown or any other dark color, almost black, then the whole point is that the fuchsia is suffering from root rot. Root rot appears if the plant constantly received a huge amount of water, most likely such a plant will not recover.
It’s strange to say, but fuchsia has a chance of getting so-called rust. You can recognize it by the brown circles on the leaf at the very bottom. Such leaves should be removed immediately to prevent further spread of the infection. Such a disease is infectious and can easily spread to healthy plants.
After removing infected leaves, it is imperative to disinfect the equipment that was used, as well as your hands. Be sure to spray 2-3 times every 10 days. For spraying the following are used: cuproxate, Bordeaux mixture, “Vectra”, “Topaz”, “Strobe”.
No less great damage can be caused by small, white flies, about 2 mm. Such flies are nothing more than moths. These flies lay eggs on bottom sheets, where larvae then form and suck out all the juices from the plants, leaving a sugary secretion.
Very badly damaged leaves turn yellow and fall off.
