Grapes are a heat-loving crop brought to middle lane from the southern regions. Temperature changes, typical for the Moscow region, the Urals and the Volga region, can destroy your plantings. Therefore, many summer residents are wondering when and how to cover grapes in the fall.
The worst situation is for annuals and young seedlings. Deaths occur in Russia every year a large number of young shoots not covered in a timely manner by their owners. You can avoid this by resorting to our recommendations. Below are tips for determining the period of shelter and the method of insulating the vine for the winter.
Every year in Russia a large number of young shoots die, not covered in a timely manner by their owners.
You already understand that late covering of the vineyards will lead to their inevitable death. It is also not recommended to cover the seedlings early, since the grapes are stored for the winter. useful material. If the autumn is warm, the vine begins to rot, and this leads to fungal diseases affecting the crop.
Early frosts pose the greatest threat. When the mercury drops below -3°C (at night), the shoots begin to freeze. Green crops freeze even at a temperature of -1°C. During major frosts (up to -8°C), the unprotected buds of the grapevines freeze. In a year this vine will not bloom, but further growth will only be possible from the root system.
Vadim Tochilin: “Growers have different opinions regarding the timing of covering grapes. Some gardeners are preparing for sub-zero temperatures in advance, others are waiting for sustainability. I prefer to analyze all opinions and then make a decision.”
Timing and climate
The timing of covering grapes in the fall depends on the climate in which the crop grows. In the cold regions of Russia, winegrowers deploy a set of measures to cover the vines at the end of September. In warmer weather - in mid-October. It is better to increase the period of instillation (together with subsequent ripening) as much as possible. Sugar and starch will accumulate in the vine, facilitating a successful wintering.
A well-known fact: summer residents not only cover grapes, but also harden them. The first stage of plant hardening occurs in the temperature range of 0-10°C, the second - from zero to minus six. The duration of the stages is at least a week.
Let's return to the revelations of Vadim Tochilin, one of the most famous winegrowers in Russia. Tochilin writes: “I close the grapes in the fall, based on opinions different people and my own experience. Need to find golden mean» . There are three nuances that you need to pay attention to:
- Ampelography of the variety. The plant can withstand critical temperatures better if the buds are well matured. On average, the critical threshold is 10-14 degrees.
- Additional factors(poor ripening, youth, crop overload, diseases) - all this leads to a decrease in varietal frost resistance.
- Hardening of the vine(small frosts leading to increased frost resistance).
If the bushes ripen well and bear fruit, it is better to wait for stable “minuses” at night. Light frosts do not kill strong grapes, but stimulate their frost resistance. Thus, in Belarus and central Russian regions, the sheltering season can begin only in November. Let's list the classic mistakes of beginners when covering grapes:
- neglect of hardening;
- incorrect calculation of deadlines;
- ignoring the climatic conditions of the region;
- technological incompetence;
- lack of ventilation (excessive tightness);
- laying insulation between the soil and the vines.
Preparing for shelter
Having figured out when to cover the grapes in the fall, begin the preparatory work. First you need to do the annual autumn and formative pruning. The first is done on fruit-bearing vines, the second - on young ones. After this, you can begin harvesting fallen leaves from the vineyard.
After pruning, you will still have vines - they need to be removed from the trellis and carefully tied up. Winegrowers form fascines using wire or rope, or fasten the vines to the ground with staples. The tied branches are laid along the row, and the beds are processed iron sulfate. The solution should be three or four percent.
Shelter methods and climatic nuances
Most covering methods come down to three solutions - complete covering of the vine, semi-covering and hilling. The choice depends on the varietal preferences of the summer resident and climatic features region. Hilling is recommended for gardeners living in soft climatic conditions(southern regions).
The head of a fruiting (adult or young) bush is covered with a layer of soil. The lower part of the shoots and the commissure must also be protected. The method is labor-intensive because you need to pour a 25-centimeter mound. Eventually root system will be completely protected.
Expert opinion: “The disadvantage of this method lies in the insecurity of the kidneys. If severe frosts hit, the plant may die.”
Half cover
The lower part of the grape crown is very susceptible to cold, so it can be protected by the semi-covering method. The bases of the shoots, the head of the bush and the sleeves are protected with earth, and other parts - with covering materials. This kind of “drape” serves as additional protection.
What materials are called covering materials? Summer residents use all kinds of fabrics, agrofibre, straw and spruce branches. The material must be tied together with twine - a “ protective suit"(its thickness will be about 4 centimeters). For combined grape varieties, semi-shelter is ideal.
Full Cover
This technology involves the complete removal of vines from the trellises followed by defoliation. The bush bends down to the soil and defends itself natural fabrics(you can use old blankets, worn out clothes). A layer of film insulation is placed on top. Important: the film should not come into contact with the buds, otherwise the vine will freeze and “burn” with the arrival of spring.
The fabric structure is pressed to the ground and fixed using arc brackets. The thickness of the soil layer with which the vines are sprinkled is about 10-30 centimeters. The harsher the winter, the thicker the layer. Please note the following points:
- Soil (full) cover gives 100% protection to your plants.
- Frost-resistant crops can be insulated with slate and roofing felt.
- If the winter is warm, ventilation must be provided.
Snow insulation
In harsh Russian conditions snow can serve good insulation. This method is suitable for residents northern regions where there is abundant snow cover. Procedure for the winegrower:
- Remove the vines from the trellis.
- Bend the bush to the ground.
- Ensure fixation using weights or U-shaped brackets.
- Wait for the snow to fall.
If the snow cover reaches thirty centimeters, your crop will not be afraid of even the most severe frost. Temperature fluctuations can ruin everything - the snow must lie for months and not melt. Therefore, Siberians actively use snow insulation. Residents of the center of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus are forced to look for other solutions.
Spruce spruce branches and reed mats
The vines are removed from the trellises, undergo a pruning procedure and are laid on coniferous spruce branches. The shoots prepared in this way are tied and attached to the soil with wire. A layer of spruce branches is placed on top, the thickness of which is approximately 5-10 centimeters. The next layer is board panels, then roofing felt is laid (can be replaced with polyethylene).
Some summer residents successfully replace spruce branches with mats woven from sun-dried reeds. The width and length depend on the area of the vineyard, but the thickness should be at least 7 centimeters. Procedure:
- Tie the vines of the nearest pair of shrubs together.
- Secure the bundles with arcs (distance from the soil - 10-15 cm).
- Place boards along the edges of the structure.
- Place mats and plastic wrap on top.
Proper design includes vents. Ventilation can be regulated by sealing the vents in frost and opening them during thaw. If you follow our instructions, the grapes will not rot in the spring and will withstand the severe winter cold.
Otherwise, you can lose not only young shoots, but also perennial bushes. So, if in winter it stays around -15...-18 0 C for a week, then up to 70% of the buds may die. During prolonged frosts at a level of -20 0 C, all the eyes will die, and in some cases the plant vines will also remain unviable. Professionals identify three main ways to close grapes for the winter. semi- and full cover.
Hilling
The first method is used in cases where young plantings are involved, preferably
Use it only on seedlings of the first year of life. Before you start hilling, you need to remove all the leaves from the bushes. If we are talking about summer cottage, then this is not too difficult to do, but if you have large landing, then you can use a 7% urea solution for these purposes. It is also used to disinfect the soil and vines before closing the grapes for the winter.
2 weeks after treatment, you can begin insulation work. For this, an earthen embankment with a height of 10 to 25 cm is created. However, you should not dig a trench near the seedlings - this could cause their roots to freeze. But do not forget, this method is not suitable for adult plants, because the buds remain open, and they are the first to die when there is a significant cold snap. Hilling can only be used in the southern regions, where there are no prolonged frosts and sharp changes temperatures
Half cover
For adult bushes, there are other methods for insulating grapes for the winter. In regions where the temperature rarely drops below -20 0 C, a semi-shelter can be used. With this method, the lower parts of the bushes are covered with earth, and the shoots are wrapped. For these purposes, fabric and straw are used, creating a layer of at least 3 cm thick on the plants. But it is worth noting that this method protects more from cold winds and drying out of the vine, but it will not help in severe frosts.
Full Cover
Many gardeners have already verified that it is best to use full cover. True, before closing the grapes for the winter in this way, you will have to trim them, forming correct bush, and then bend it to the ground. To do this, all its shoots are tied together in a not too tight bundle and covered with material, straw, unnecessary blankets and insulation that does not allow moisture to pass through (linoleum, polyethylene, roofing felt, etc.). The next step for the winter is that you need to take care of the created structure. It shouldn't fly apart at the first strong winds. To do this, you can knock down special boxes that will be installed on top of the shelter, or press it with special fixing brackets, and cover it well with soil. If you do not have the specified devices, then the insulation layer can simply be pressed down with bricks or strong boards.
Also, do not forget that there are a number of nuances in how to close grapes for the winter. When completely covered, keep in mind that the vine should not just lie on the ground; lay a layer of straw, dry leaves or spruce branches. There is also no need to rush to cover the shoots before the first frost, they only harden the vine.
Fruit grapes - heat-loving shrub. Promotion of this berry crop Three factors contribute to the north:
- snow cover in the cold season,
- flexibility of the vine (it can be bent),
- successes in selection of early ripening varieties.
Competent winter shelter grapes allows it to successfully develop and bear fruit even in areas with coordinates of 50–60 degrees northern latitude.
Viticulture regions in Russia
North Caucasus - land uncovered grapes
The grapes overwinter in the open.
The northern border of this zone runs along. Even in warm regions where the vine is not traditionally covered, there is a risk of frost damage. For example, on Taman Peninsula This happens about once every 10 years. Sometimes in Lower Don region practice semi-covering agricultural technology in which only the lower (standard) part of the bush is protected (for example, covered with earth).
Semi-covering method.
Cover culture is possible on very large territory of Russia : in the Volga and Volga-Vyatka region, in the Black Earth Region, on Far East, in Altai, the south of the Urals and Siberia (), in the Central Non-Black Earth Region, in some regions of the North-West. Delicious grapes are obtained in open ground even in St. Petersburg and Yekaterinburg, as well as in the Irkutsk, Novosibirsk, Tomsk regions.
Factors for successful wintering
Winter-hardy varieties can be covered with a simple plastic film.
In a broad sense, successful wintering depends on the entire complex of growing conditions.
- Selection of winter-hardy and early ripening varieties with good ripening of the vines.
- Placement in a sunny place protected from the wind.
- Proper planting (the trench method is often used).
- Competent formation.
- Reasonable feeding.
- Choosing the optimal winter shelter.
The microclimate of the site and the specific weather conditions of the season are of great importance. But the lion's share of success depends on the owner.
Specific preparation of vines for winter
This stage of work is no less important than the sheltering procedure itself.
The preparation of grapes for winter begins based on the current weather conditions.
Timing depends on weather conditions of the region . You need to focus not on specific dates, and on temperature and other natural factors.
Stimulation of vine ripening
Been through low temperatures is only capable of matured (brown) wood. The lignification process is in full swing in late summer and early autumn.
- The harvest is harvested in a timely manner, without overexposure.
- They give phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
- Remove the lower leaves.
- Horizontally located shoots ripen more actively than vertical ones. In cold regions, at the end of summer, you can remove the branches, spreading them on the ground so that they are well illuminated by the sun.
- In areas with early frosts (Tomsk, Novosibirsk, Irkutsk, etc.), gardeners practice greenhouse shelters. At the end of summer, the shoots are laid on the ground along a row, low arcs or a frame are installed on top, covered with white agrofibre and transparent plastic film (leaving holes for ventilation). The vine ripens, and on fine days in September-October it is completely opened for hardening.
The ripening of the vine continues even when the temperature drops to +6 degrees.
Trimming
Before sheltering for the winter, all immature shoots are cut off.
- bushes or frosting of foliage (from frost).
- Leaves and unripe shoots should not be left .
- The estimated date is October.
Moisture-recharging irrigation
- Damp soil protects roots from freezing better than dry soil.
- If there has been no heavy rain, then the vineyard should be watered 2 weeks before sheltering.
- This is labor-intensive work: they spend 70–200 liters on the bush.
The best moment for moisture-charging irrigation- just before frost, so that the water does not have time to go deeper than the roots of the grapes.
Hardening
A decrease in air temperature stimulates bushes to switch to winter mode. This the most important stage self-preparation of plants. There is no need to rush to cover. Good hardening occurs in the temperature range from plus 10 to minus 4 degrees.
Clearing under bushes
Damp foliage must be removed!
It is necessary to remove organic residues that are prone to rotting (damp leaves, grass) from the surface of the earth.
Disinfection
2-3 days before sheltering, some gardeners advise spraying the vineyard (bushes and soil) with a fungicide solution (for diseases). Options:
- inkstone (300 g per bucket of water).
- Urea(500 g per bucket of water).
It is important to know that such processing will delay spring blossoming kidneys for several days.
Whitewashing with lime or spraying with Bordeaux mixture is also used.
Spraying the vine with disinfectants is done after pruning shortly before covering.
Tying and bending the vine
Immediately before insulation, the grape branches are tied into loose bunches (with ropes, soft wire).
Timing for covering grapes
You can use “construction waste”
Well-ripened vines and buds can withstand negative temperatures of -13 -18 degrees, and the most resistant varieties -23 -28 (up to -40 Amur grapes).
The root system of delicate varieties freezes at a temperature of -6 degrees, which will be critical for most grapes -10 ; the roots of Amur hybrids are not afraid of frost -20 degrees. These indicators are correct for the period of deep winter dormancy, which has not yet arrived in the fall: branches and buds can freeze even at -10 degrees.
Experienced winegrowers advise covering the bushes when the air temperature no longer rises above negative -5 degrees. Usually this period coincides with a slight freezing of the top layer of soil (but not in all regions; sometimes snow falls on soft ground). If the weather forecast predicts heavy snowfalls with a further drop in temperature (the establishment of winter cover), the grapes need to be closed.
For most areas, the shelter period is last ten days of October(in some areas - the first half of November). In cases where the gardener has to carry out this procedure earlier (forced early departure from the dacha), it is necessary to provide vents for ventilation (for example, holes with tufts of straw).
Main principles
To protect the vine from soil dampness, you can use any waterproofing material.
- Protection from the cold is provided by a layer of soil or air. The shelter itself does not provide warmth in winter. Loose and fabric materials provide thermal insulation due to air microvoids. The best and cheapest protection is snow cover. In snowy Siberia, grapes sometimes overwinter more successfully than in southern Russia.
- The risk of the vines becoming overheated from dampness occurs when the temperature rises above +5 degrees.
Choosing a Specific Method winter protection depends on:
- region and microclimate of the site (temperature, wind, snow depth),
- variety, age, method of planting the bush (trench, surface, hill),
- availability of protective materials and structures.
Wooden boxes for sheltering vines.
Methods for covering grapes
There is an innumerable number various variations, which can be divided into several groups.
- Vertical method.
- Simple bending.
- Backfilling with earth.
- Air-dry option.
- Loose, loose and fabric materials.
- Combined method.
Vertical method
In “semi-covered”, warm viticulture zones young bushes and tender varieties sometimes they are specially protected from cold and drying winter winds. First, the root zone is insulated, covering it with a layer of earth, dry leaves or straw (10–20 cm high). Then the bundle of vines is wrapped in agrofibre or a polypropylene bag (4 cm layer) and secured with ties. The entire structure is left in a vertical position.
Other methods require bending the vine to the ground. They are practiced in regions of covered viticulture.
Simple ducking
This method is not suitable for all regions.
The method is suitable for unpretentious varieties ( , Amursky 1, The Riddle of Sharov ) in areas with deep and stable snow cover ( Kemerovo region, Perm region, etc.). The vine is simply pressed to the ground, and the snow will protect it. Sometimes branches are placed underneath so that the vine has less contact with the soil.
And such grapes may need shelter in May - June - during recurrent frosts.
Backfilling with earth
This method is ancient, but quite controversial. It has both enthusiastic admirers and harsh opponents.
Flaws
- Risk of vine overheating.
- Labor intensive.
- Requires strict adherence to closing and opening deadlines.
Advantages
- Cheapness.
- Simplicity.
- Protection from mice (!).
- Good insulation from the cold.
Covering with earth is one of the simplest and cheapest ways to winter grapes.
This method has many fans in the Black Earth and Volga regions. The area should not be flooded spring waters to avoid getting wet.
Algorithm
Sometimes agrofibre or polypropylene fabric is first placed on top of the vine to make it easier to shake off the soil in the spring.
Air-dry shelter
The method is suitable for any region, including when planting grapes in trenches (15–30 cm deep).
Serves as a heat insulator “air cushion” 20–40 cm thick, and protection from dampness - sheets of material that do not allow water to pass through: polyethylene, roofing felt, roofing felt, slate, boards, thick cardboard and plywood, frames with glass . Modern ones are also suitable Construction Materials– polycarbonate, foamed polyethylene (insulation), soft roof(rubemast). A light or even reflective surface is preferable so that it heats up less.
The structure is supported by arches (with a distance between them of 60–100 cm), “hut” frames, and a box A, strong mesh, border formwork of the ridge, edges of the trench. Sometimes two layers of coating are used with an air gap between them.
The finished protection looks like a tunnel greenhouse, rising above the ground or buried in it. Mice poison is placed inside. It is advisable to leave vents on the sides for ventilation.
Loose, loose and fabric materials
The method is controversial, but cheap.
The grapevine is provided DRY, BREATHABLE, POROUS insulation using the following options:
- spruce branches, pine needles, dry leaves, reed stems and reed mats, straw, wood shavings, sawdust (not everyone likes them), seed husks (attracts mice), light humus, foam crumbs, old padded jackets, rags, agrofibre.
Approximate layer thickness – 15–25 cm. It is applied directly to the vine or to covering material. Polyethylene or another moisture insulator is usually (but not always) placed on top. You need to add mouse poison to the grapes.
Combined method
Winegrowers also use a combination of different methods.
- For example, an air-dry shelter is additionally sprinkled with a 10–15 cm layer of earth.
- Or they combine loose and air protection, leaving a gap of 10 cm between them.
The coating can also be multi-layered , using cardboard, polystyrene foam, modern synthetic materials - dornite, isover.
Covering young bushes
Covering a young bush under film.
- A small bush is covered with earth or sprinkled with loose material (dry leaf, pine needles, shavings).
- Place a bucket, cut plastic bottle or box on top.
- If necessary, you can additionally cover it from moisture.
Fir branches as bedding for grape branches.
Snow retention
If possible and necessary, to the vineyard throw on additional layer snow (you need to take it to the side, without exposing the near zone). To ensure that snow accumulates better and does not blow out, barrier shields are installed and brushwood is laid out. Sometimes part of the vine is left on the trellis as a snow storage.
When planting a northern vineyard, you should remember that it is possible critical situations. Bushes can die in severe frosts on bare ground, sudden temperature changes, due to depletion by a bountiful harvest.
After several blissful years, climate disasters occur. Some plants will survive if you follow simple rules:
- Part of the plantation should be planted with the most unpretentious and ultra-winter-hardy varieties. In pursuit of size and super taste, you shouldn’t get rid of proven and reliable specimens.
- It is necessary to use deep planting of grapes , in which several buds will end up underground. They can cause the bush to regenerate, even if it freezes completely above ground level.
Video about sheltering grapes in Siberia
All plants are afraid of severe frosts, so you need to know how to cover grapes for the winter. The period of the so-called dormant state lasts from one to two quarters, that is, approximately six months. Grapes do not like severe frosts and sudden thaws, due to which there is a possibility of the juice flowing again and the vital system starting up much earlier than necessary. When alternating decreases and increases in temperature, there may be a risk of plant death.
Young shoots are especially afraid of winter cold, so it is necessary to cover the grapes for the winter. The quality and competence of timely insulation work have a direct impact on the yield of bushes at the end summer period. How to cover grapes for the winter correctly? You can use a lot of subtleties and interesting technologies, thanks to which the root system of the grapes will be preserved, and the yield of the bushes and the size of the berries will pleasantly surprise the gardener.
There are three ways to properly cover grapes for the winter:
- hilling covering technique;
- method of covering grapes by 50%;
- complete cover of bushes.
Based on the characteristics of a particular grape variety, we cover the grapes for the winter. Each shelter option is considered special. It is selected based on data on the climatic conditions and the variety of grape bushes. Optimal selection of techniques for covering bushes guarantees the absence of frozen plants.
Young cuttings and young vines love the shelter of hilling. The technique is very simple. Quite dense mounds of soil are made around young bushes, the height of which can reach 30 cm. This technique involves minimum investment labor and money, but old bushes cannot be covered using this method.
IN climatic zones where there is no likelihood of temperature changes and significant frosts, you can cover adult plants using this technique, but their tops must be wrapped. When there are no severe frosts, the buds, which are poorly protected, are preserved.
We cover plants by 50%
When using this technology for insulating plants, the crown is covered with earth. In this case, the crown should be placed at a level of 0.2-0.3 m above ground level. The remaining elements of the plant crown drape:
- placing the crown in the film;
- covering it with straw;
- warming the plant thick fabric.
The thickness of the protective layer should not exceed 50 mm. This winter shelter is suitable:
- for young shoots;
- for plants living in warm climate zones;
- for regions where frosts do not destroy the crown of plants.
If frost hits an unprotected area of the bush, the bush will most likely be completely destroyed.
We carry out complete cover of bushes
The vine is completely removed from load-bearing structures. Remove remaining leaves from the bushes. The shoots remaining on the surface are collected in bunches and pressed to the ground. Old things can become tools for shelter. You can cover the grapes with film, but when using it, the so-called Greenhouse effect.
In the case of mild frosts, the buds may be blocked, and in the spring they may burn. Therefore, it is better to press down the branches with boards or bricks and cover them with earth.
Sheltering grapes for the winter (video)
We prepare bushes for every season
IN summer time We thin out the vineyards, while the stepsons need to be eliminated. Frost has negative impact on young shoots remaining on winter period. Young bushes will experience a moisture deficit and begin to deprive vitality the whole bush. When it's warm outside, the grapes need light. Ripe berries need to be picked promptly.
You need to cover the grapes on time, but you should not start insulating the bush at the first drop in temperature. The first frosts will harden the grapes, as a result of which the bush will ripen much better. If the temperature drops below -2°C, it means that the plant needs to be covered in the near future. For a vine, the maximum level of frost at which its vital activity is not disrupted is -23°C, and the roots of the plant will die if the temperature drops even at -10°C.
At first glance, it may seem that there is no need to rush, because the root system of the plant is completely immersed in the ground, and nothing threatens it. Frost actually penetrates the roots through sap that runs through the vine. Advance covering of grape bushes during late autumn
IN or during the first frost it will save the bushes and prevent the roots from freezing. autumn period you need to collect all the berries. After this, water the plants well with water, to which it is recommended to add potassium permanganate. Bushes need to be treated with fertilizers of organic and mineral origin, and it is necessary to use boric acid , superphosphates, ash, and humus. On last stage Preparations include pruning of bushes. On this preparatory work
are considered completed and you can begin to cover the grapes for the winter.
To cover the grapes during cold weather, you can use a white film, which acts as a kind of fur coat for the bushes. In such clothes, the grapes will warm up 1.5 degrees more effectively.
Snow cover must be present on the surface of the earth, preventing freezing of the soil and freezing of the root system of the grapes. Wind currents should not blow away the snow cover from the earth's surface, therefore special shields are installed, the height of which should be approximately 500 mm. The grapes are pruned different time
year with a specific purpose: in the spring, grapes that have not yet bear fruit are pruned in order to form a regular bush; in the summer, the tops of the shoots and excess branches of the bush are cut off in order to “ventilate” it. But in the fall, the plant is prepared for winter, pruned and covered to protect it from frost and improve fruitfulness. We will now talk in more detail about how to prune grapes and how to cover grapes for the winter.
Preparing grapes for winter: proper pruning You need to watch the grapes all year round and gradually form bush, otherwise it will grow in all directions, will take a long time to ripen and bear very little fruit. The same procedure also helps to cover the grapes well for the winter. However young plant They are pruned not in the fall, but in the spring. How exactly to care for grapes for three years, see the following diagram:
With perennial grape branches proceed as follows:
The grapevine does not want words, but wants work. ( Bulgarian folk proverb)
As a result of pruning, all fruit-bearing parts must be destroyed. Only sleeves of grapes with two shoots should remain, from which a knot and a new vine are formed. This must be repeated annually. Pruning should be done at least two weeks before covering the grapes for the winter.
Covering grapes for the winter: basic methods
The frost resistance of grapes depends on its variety, but in general, a mature grapevine can easily withstand frosts even at -14 degrees. Small frosts of about -5 degrees even harden the grapevine. But the roots suffer already at -9, so the plant should still be covered before the onset of severe frosts.
In this way, only young grapes in the first year of growth can be covered for the winter. At the same time, they hill up the lower part of the bush, pouring soil at the roots about 15-25 centimeters high. Sometimes they cover in the same way mature plants, growing in the southern regions, where the temperature usually does not fall below the critical level for the bush. But in the event of unexpected frosts, the bush may die.
Half-shelter of grapes
This method is also not suitable for severe frosts, since only the root system of the plant is covered most densely with soil, and the shoots are covered from above various materials: hay, straw, film, thick fabric. Young shoots are also closed plastic bottles or in jars and sprinkled with earth.
How to completely cover grapes for the winter
The safest way to cover grape bushes is by using a complete covering method, in which the grape vines need to be removed from the supports, tied together and laid on the ground. After this, the bundle is covered with some thick cloth and then with film. The resulting structure is sprinkled with earth on top, from 10 to 30 centimeters, depending on the frost resistance of the variety, or covered with slate or roofing felt.
At the same time, it is important to prevent the film from coming into contact with the buds so that they do not rot, otherwise you will not see a harvest. It is also important that there are no leaves left on the grapes - wait until they fall off on their own or tear them off yourself.
We invite you to also look next video, which clearly demonstrates how to plant grapes:
