Getting rid of weeds in a summer cottage. Smart use of organics

Immediately after the pleasant sowing of seeds and seedlings, the summer resident begins a difficult period of fighting weeds, which grow better and faster than any crop planted on the territory. Of course, if your summer cottage is small, then special problems you won’t feel it, but what about those who have 20 or 40 acres of land? How to get rid of grass in your garden once and for all folk remedies?

Getting rid of weed once and for all
Since summer passes quite quickly and more than one summer resident does not want to spend it raising weeds, they came up with effective ways and means that make life much easier. What are these methods and how to use them?

How to get rid of grass in the garden - options

Many gardeners simply dream of forever forgetting about such troubles as weeds. But this cannot be done fully. Why? Even if you regularly uproot all the weeds, the seeds of these pests will large quantities are in the soil, so they germinate immediately. Of course, it is better to destroy weeds at an early stage, otherwise its root system will completely drown out the weak roots vegetable crops. In addition, weeds feed on the juices of a fertile plant, depriving it of nutrients.

Today there are two known methods to combat harmful vegetation:

  1. Mechanical.
  2. Chemical

Mechanical The method involves pulling out weeds by hand. But there is no guarantee that after this the weeds will not come back with renewed vigor. Weeds grow especially actively after rains, so this option is more suitable for those summer residents who have a small area. If you decide to use mechanical method, then pay attention to the processing rules land plot: for this it is important to use garden tools and uproot plants without leaving them in the soil.

Concerning chemical method, it includes the use of herbicides. But this method can be dangerous for planted crops, so it is not recommended.

How to fight weeds with folk remedies

Before herbicides were invented, people dealt with weeds using folk remedies, which turned out to be no less effective. We offer you several effective ways.

Alcohol. If you want to grow a crop on summer cottage without using chemicals, then use an alcohol solution. To do this, mix alcohol in a ratio of 1:10 with water and pour it over the future planting site. There will be no weeds in the coming season.

Soap, vinegar and salt. This composition has the effect of a herbicidal soap. To prepare the solution, mix grated salt in equal proportions laundry soap and vinegar. Let it brew. After this, you can spray the weeds with it.

Many owners suburban areas They are trying to replace purchased herbicides with “folk” remedies. Acetic acid is usually used as the simplest and safest. For spraying beds, a 5% solution is most often used.
For yard treatment You can also use a more effective “folk” weed killer – vinegar with salt. Prepare such a herbicide as follows:
3.8 liters of vinegar 9% is poured into the bucket;
half a glass of salt is poured there;
a little is added liquid soap;
everything is thoroughly mixed.

Use vinegar weed killer in the same way as chemicals. Spraying should be carried out as carefully as possible. Allow drops from the spray bottle to contact cultivated plants, it is forbidden. Best time for processing - early morning.
Typically, white vinegar is used to kill weeds. You can also take apple one. Summer residents who decide to use this “folk” herbicide should be aware that large quantities it is capable of leaching nutrients from the soil.

Vinegar and salt. This combination also has a deadly effect on weeds, destroying them forever. To prepare such a solution, you need to mix 5 liters of vinegar and a glass of salt. Mix all this thoroughly and treat the weeds. Because it's pretty dangerous drug, make sure that it does not come into contact with healthy plants.

Soda. This product acts as a natural alkali, so it will not harm the soil, but will destroy weeds. To use soda, you need to pour it on the root of the weed and wait for the result, which will not take long to arrive.

Sawdust. This the method will work those who have bright beds and they are clearly marked. In the fall, you need to sprinkle sawdust on the edge of the bed and dig it up. With the arrival of spring, fill the edges of the bed with sawdust again and leave it like that. Root system the weed will not be able to break through the sawdust, so it will die.

Today you can purchase gentle chemical preparations that, when correct use, will not harm your crops. Now you know how to get rid of grass in the garden once and for all using folk remedies. We hope that our tips will help you grow rich harvests of your favorite vegetable crops in your summer cottage.

Weed guide: photos, types, names, control measures

To save your crop from the “invasion” of weeds, you need to understand what kind of plants they are and how to deal with them. We have compiled a visual table with photos, descriptions and the most effective measures control of common weeds.

Not all weeds are equally harmful. Some of the weeds can be used to feed livestock and poultry, some of them are medicinal plants. But among the “weed” family there are also poisonous specimens. Our table will help you navigate the types of weeds and wisely select measures to combat “illegals” on your site.

Control measures:

  • treatment with natural borax after the emergence of the weed, as well as herbicides (Roundup, Lintur);
  • weeding
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial 10 cm On shady lawns and lawns
  • IN large doses the plant is toxic;
  • sometimes used in folk medicine for asthma, pneumonia, stomach and liver diseases;
  • used for flavoring kvass, alcoholic and tonic drinks

Control measures:

  • mulching;
  • repeated cutting;
  • digging the soil in autumn and spring;
  • treatment of seedlings with herbicides based on imazapyr, glyphosate and ammonium glufosinate
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
climbing perennial Up to 1.8 m In sunny areas
  • Possesses medicinal properties, widely used in folk medicine (most often as a laxative, diuretic and choleretic agent);
  • root suckers germinate at a distance of up to 9 m from the mother lash

Control measures:

  • early treatment soil in spring (the seeds will germinate shallowly and the plants will be easy to remove);
  • weeding before seed formation, preferably at the beginning of flowering;
  • mulching beds and tree trunk circles;
  • sowing the plot winter rye, which displaces galenzoga
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial 10-80 cm In well lit vegetable beds
  • Originally from Mexico, artificially introduced into Eurasia;
  • one plant produces up to 300,000 seeds

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and tree trunks;
  • treatment with herbicides immediately after soil cultivation before sowing (Gesagard, Amiben, Kambilen) and after emergence - with herbicides Betanal Expert, Gesagard, Dianat, Kambilen;
  • weeding
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous annual Up to 1 m Grows in moist soils
  • Good honey plant;
  • used in folk medicine as a hemostatic, laxative

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and tree trunks;
  • treatment with pre-emergence herbicides during spring cultivation (Glyphos, Roundup, Tornado);
  • treatment of plants with a 30% solution of potassium salt;
  • weeding (weed stems must be taken outside the site);
  • repeated digging of the earth
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial Up to 2 m In areas with fertile soil
  • Used in folk medicine to treat joint diseases, radiculitis, and also as a hemostatic and multivitamin agent;
  • young leaves and shoots are edible

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and tree trunks;
  • treatment with pre-emergence herbicides during spring digging of the soil and post-emergence herbicides (Esteron, Chistalan) on early stages weed growth;
  • weeding in the flowering phase before seeds appear
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous annual Up to 30 cm On sandy, rocky soils
  • The seeds have medicinal properties and are used for gastrointestinal disorders as a diuretic;
  • leaves and shoots are poisonous

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and flower beds;
  • weeding (before the seeds ripen);
  • treatment with post-emergence herbicides in the basal leaf phase (Agritox, Agroxon, Herbitox, Metafen)
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial Up to 30 cm Lawns and lawns in sun or partial shade
  • The leaves have medicinal properties, are edible, contain vitamins B 2 and C, carotene, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, choline, manganese, iron

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and tree trunks;
  • treatment with post-emergence herbicides in the early stages of weed growth (Lontrel, Lontrel-300, Ballet CE);
  • weeding
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial Up to 20 cm On moist, dense soils
  • Has antiseptic properties;
  • used in folk medicine to treat diseases respiratory tract, gastritis, to improve digestion;
  • young leaves are eaten;
  • one plant produces up to 15,000 seeds

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and tree trunks;
  • treatment with herbicides before sowing seeds and planting seedlings or in the early stages of weed development (calcium cyanamide, Amiben, Kambilene);
  • weeding
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities

herbaceous annual
(sometimes biennial)

10-80 cm On any type of soil
  • Forage plant;
  • used in folk medicine in the treatment of hypertension, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, liver, kidneys, Bladder, rheumatism;
  • tolerates trampling well

Control measures:

  • mulching beds and tree trunks;
  • treatment with herbicides before emergence and in the early stages of weed development (Dianat, Difenamide, Amiben);
  • weeding
Type Height (length) Where does it grow Peculiarities

herbaceous annual

Up to 130 cm On any type of soil, including arid
  • One plant produces up to 500,000 seeds;
  • has bactericidal, anti-inflammatory, hemostatic properties;
  • leaves are edible;
  • seeds can be fed to poultry

What are weeds and where do they come from?

Weeds are usually understood as plants that, according to the owner’s plan, should not grow in a certain place in the garden or garden, but stubbornly strive to grow green and bloom there. Basically, plants that are desirable in some places may become weeds in others. For example, lemon balm, which happily rose among cucumbers or tomatoes, may turn out to be a weed. And even the most well-groomed areas are not immune to the appearance of such uninvited guests. When arranging a garden with your own hands, it is impossible to insure against the fact that unwanted seeds will be carried by the wind, or they will be carried on the legs of birds. Or weeds may creep in from neighboring plot, or even just from the street.

How to fight

When deciding how to control weeds in your garden, you should consider some facts. For example, how many of these same weeds have grown and how far they are from the cultivated plants. If there are few of them, it's better to try mechanical methods(in other words, dig it up), and if the area is completely overgrown, it’s unlikely to be possible without herbicides.

Mechanical method

In how to fight weeds in the garden, the main assistant is a shovel and a hoe. That is, overgrown places are cleared by simply digging them up, taking out the unnecessary plant from the ground with its roots. It is not recommended to throw it here on the ground, since it can easily sprout again. The disadvantage of this method is clear: it is too labor-intensive. Digging up the entire area, carefully removing plants with roots is a very tedious and often thankless job. But in this case, the soil does not deteriorate, and nothing will happen to cultural plantings (for example, vegetables).

Chemicals

More modern way how to control weeds in the garden - this is the application chemicals. First of all, these are herbicides. For example, “Hurricane”, “Roundup”, “Tornado”. They work when they get on the leaves, move along the stem to the roots and cause the death of a particular plant. These substances are interesting because they are completely broken down and do not harm subsequent useful plantings. But they do not act on ungerminated seeds, so after a while the garden can turn green again, although not as intensely.

What else to do

Weeds, like everyone else, love sunlight. Therefore, if you isolate them from it, growth and development will stop. That is why summer residents, when deciding how to fight weeds in the garden, cover all free soil with opaque film or cardboard (this will also work old linoleum, and in general any opaque material). Under such a cover, the weeds gradually rot. Weed control is a complex matter. You need to do this regularly and systematically, without delay, because weeds have a habit of scattering seeds and multiplying after ripening. And next year we will have to deal with a significantly increased number of them.

With the beginning of growing the first garden crops humanity has also encountered weeds, which, to the detriment of the entire surrounding world, have developed much more successfully than their cultivated brothers. With the emergence of the problem, the first ways to combat it appeared. harmful plants, different in their purpose and execution.

Method #1 - regular mechanical weeding

This is perhaps the simplest and most common method, despite its complexity. The main property of weeding is regularity, which means constant connection to the garden. Vigorously waving a hoe and even working with a walk-behind mower will not produce results if you forget about weeding for at least two weeks, and besides, the effectiveness of the action is minimal. Garden regulars such as wild oats and wheatgrass tenaciously hold on to the soil with their rhizomes, which spread around and form a real carpet. Removing part of the rhizomes does not deprive the plant of life, but only promotes their rapid reproduction.

Using a small fork instead of a hoe or spade for weeding, you can not only free the soil from weeds, but also loosen it at the same time

Along with traditional tools, a weed extractor is used to weed beds. To remove a plant, simply immerse the extractor in the soil and turn it 180 degrees.

Method #2 - using covering material

  • linoleum;
  • black film;
  • cardboard;
  • roofing felt

The method of clearing the soil of weeds is simple: cover required area the ground with an opaque, airtight material for 3 or 4 weeks, after which it can be removed. Not a single plant will withstand such conditions, and the roots, stem buds and leaves will naturally die, after which they can be easily removed with an ordinary rake.

Some weeds have tap roots that go deep. Sometimes the length of rhizomes and their shoots reaches 1 m or more

The peculiarity of this method is that weed control must occur before sowing or planting vegetables and berry crops, that is, the procedure must be performed as early as possible. IN middle lane optimal time March is recognized for sheltered work. A pleasant exception is strawberries, which can coexist quite happily with black film. The beds are completely covered, leaving nests for berry bushes. As a result, the film simultaneously performs a number of functions:

  • attracts sun rays;
  • helps retain moisture in the soil;
  • prevents rotting of berries;
  • stops the growth of weeds.

Using black weed film dramatically increases yield garden strawberries. Sweet and juicy berries do not touch the ground, so they remain intact and healthy

Method #3 - drip irrigation device

Enough interesting system targeted spot watering not only remarkably saves water, but also feeds only the necessary vegetable crops. Water flowing from a water supply or a large tank raised above the ground moves through pipes and hoses, and then seeps through small holes punctured in the places where vegetables are planted. The essence of watering is to saturate with moisture only useful plants without giving weeds a chance to grow.

At drip irrigation all moisture goes to the plant for which it is intended. Dry soil around the crop is a guarantee of protection from weeds and the proliferation of harmful insects

Method #4 - protection with mulching

Mulching has been used for quite a long time, and to create mulch - crushed mass - quite different natural and artificial materials are used:

  • fallen leaves;
  • dry grass;
  • compost;
  • straw;
  • crushed film;
  • landscape fabric.

A layer of carefully crushed material 6-7 cm thick is placed in a dense carpet around the vegetable crops. It allows air to pass through, retains moisture, maintains the necessary temperature for optimal root growth, and at the same time serves as an effective barrier to weeds in the garden.

Biological or artificial mulching mixture is evenly distributed throughout the entire bed, leaving random nests for plants, taking into account their size and growth rate

When laying mulch on the ground, you must adhere to a number of rules. If plants are planted in autumn period, then the protective mass must be added immediately after planting. In early spring, before using mulch, you should check whether the ground has warmed up well. If the weeds have already begun to grow, it is necessary to weed the soil thoroughly, and then lay a thick layer of crushed mass - up to 18 cm.

Chemical attack on weeds

The weed army has many warriors: wild oats and chamomile, creeping wheatgrass and horse sorrel, tansy and jasmine, St. John's wort and string. But none of these plants can withstand aggressive chemical action - spraying with herbicides.

There are a number of so-called means systemic action. These include “Tornado”, “Roundup”, “Growd Bio”. They are applied to the visible surfaces of plants - leaves, stems, inflorescences. The toxic composition is absorbed by the pores of grasses and gradually accumulates in their roots. A big plus of these products is their absolute safety for the surrounding soil. The land is not polluted, so after herbicide treatment, cultivated plants can be safely planted. The duration of exposure to pesticides depends on their composition and the degree of resistance of the weeds; most often, 2 weeks are enough to completely clear the area.

“Agrokiller” equally well destroys not only annuals and perennials, but also shrub and woody shoots. With its help, you can effectively fight the dangerous and tenacious hogweed, which can cause extensive burns.

To avoid damaging vegetables or berry bush, used to apply herbicides to weeds the simplest tool– an ordinary paint brush

The main rule when using herbicides is to carefully and accurately apply them only to harmful flowers and herbs, since the toxic substance kills any plants equally effectively, including berry bushes and vegetable crops. Due to the total destruction of all living things, the optimal use for herbicides is their spraying in areas far from the beds, but also in need of cleaning: thickets along the fence, grass nests in furrows, burdock and thistle bushes along the sides of garden paths.

Let's take a closer look at the two tools. Roundup is a universal herbicide that is used to get rid of absolutely any plant. It does not have soil activity, so it is used before sowing vegetable crops. If you act according to the instructions, the product is completely safe for people, animals and environment. A 1-liter container, which is enough for 20 m², costs 1,250 rubles.

Often large containers with continuous action herbicides (for example, Roundup) are equipped with a small pump with a hose, which add convenience and speed to the process

The second popular remedy is “Tornado”. In the garden it is recommended to use it against such weeds, like cattail, creeping wheatgrass, bindweed, thistle, pigweed, reed. After applying the composition, after about 8-10 days, the plants begin to turn yellow, wither, and after 2.5-3 weeks they finally die. After about 3-4 days, you can plant vegetables and berries on the treated soil. A 1 liter container costs 900 rubles.

Herbicide "Tornado" is safe for animals and bees, but is poisonous for fish. When using it, avoid contact of the solution with the mucous membrane of the eyes

After learning how to control weeds with in various ways and funds, you can increase productivity and turn semi-wild garden thickets into an exemplary plot.

I have been fighting sow thistle on my property for a long time and to no avail. I don’t even know what to spray anymore. Tell me, are there any folk remedies for killing weeds in the garden?


Weed control takes up the lion's share of gardeners' time and has a detrimental effect on their health. In the presence of large plot It won't take long to break your back. After all, they need to be weeded repeatedly, since this cunning weed manages to come out again and again in the most unexpected places.

Various drugs are also widely used to kill weeds. But this does not guarantee complete removal of weeds. A good alternative would be to use it to kill weeds in the garden. folk remedies, because they are inexpensive compared to herbicides, and special physical effort do not require, and are not dangerous to health.

Most often, vinegar, salt, soap and soda are used when treating weeds.


How is vinegar used?

Vinegar completely destroys almost all types of weeds. It is absolutely safe for humans and does not have a negative effect on the soil. You can even remove ants with vinegar (spray the areas where they live with vinegar diluted in water).


However, if it gets on crops, vinegar can destroy them too, so you need to be careful when processing.

To avoid accidentally harming crops growing nearby, it is recommended to use a bottle with a nozzle or pump. If you need to treat a couple of bushes, you can take a brush. Spray weeds in calm, sunny weather: the effect of vinegar is enhanced by sun rays, besides, calm weather will not allow harm to vegetables or flowers.

Leaves and stems should be sprayed generously with vinegar solution. Sometimes they do reprocessing, if you come across particularly persistent weeds. It is recommended to begin work on the destruction of pest plants in early spring, but I treat old perennial weeds in the fall. When treating weeds, several recipes with vinegar are used:

  1. Dilute 5 glasses of 6% vinegar in two liters of water - this is enough to spray 2 acres.
  2. Prepare a mixture of three parts 9% vinegar and one part lemon juice.

Salt - for particularly stubborn weeds

If vinegar alone does not control stubborn weeds, combine it with kitchen salt. To do this, bring a liter of water to a boil, add 5 tbsp. vinegar and 2 tbsp. salt. Pour the hot solution onto the weeds.

You can simply sprinkle the garden bed with salt, making sure that it does not get on the crops growing nearby. This method The good thing is that salt will not only destroy the weed, but also, penetrating into the soil during rain, will prevent new ones from growing.

It should be remembered that frequent use of salt in the beds leads to changes in the composition of the soil. You can destroy all the weeds, but cultivated plants will not grow in this place.

Soap to the rescue

If you add liquid soap (one medical syringe) to a solution of salt (150 g) and vinegar (1 l), you will get a mixture called herbicidal soap. Wherein best effect Using 20% ​​vinegar will give. When spraying with herbicidal soap, crops must be covered thick paper. The work is carried out at lunchtime, when the sun is especially hot.

Soda and weed

No less effective is adding to solutions baking soda. This will help get rid of small plants between tile joints in the yard, and also fights well against powdery mildew. The following proportions are most often used:

  • dilute 2 tbsp in 5 liters of water. l. soda and 1 tbsp. l. soap and spray the weeds once before flowering, repeat after a week - and so on three times;
  • for 1 liter of water - a tablespoon of soda, liquid soap and vegetable oil. Carry out the treatment in cloudy weather.

How to fight weeds using traditional methods, video



If you are tired of fighting weeds manually, you can resort to using herbicides. And if you use them wisely, without violating the instructions, then their use will not negatively affect the soil and your health.

There are continuous action herbicides - these are those drugs whose action is aimed at destroying all weeds indiscriminately and selectively - the action of such drugs is selective, for example, they can destroy all grass, except potatoes and tomatoes, etc. That's how far science has come.

Let's look at the most popular and probably the best drugs from weeds.

Herbicide, instructions for use

Zenkor

This is a systemic herbicide with a broad spectrum of action against dicotyledonous and cereal weeds in the pre- and post-emergence period of their development. It is used on potatoes, tomatoes, alfalfa and essential oil crops. Active substance: metribuzin, which is easily absorbed by the roots and seedlings of plants, and also penetrates through the leaf surface of the plant.

Zenkor destroys weeds at the moment of their germination (with pre-emergence application) or within 10-20 days with post-emergence application.

Advantages of this herbicide:

  • ensures cleanliness of crops from weeds for a period of 1-2 months or more, depending on weather conditions during the growing season and soil type;
  • reliability: confirmed through widespread use in various soil and climatic zones.

How to use Zenkor

On tomatoes. The amount of solution for processing 1 hundred square meters of land is indicated.

  • Spraying the soil before planting tomato seedlings. Dissolve 10-15 g of Zenkor in 3 liters of water;
  • spraying crops in the phase of 2-4 leaves of the crop. 7 g of the drug per 3 liters of water;
  • spraying weeds 15-20 days after planting seedlings in the ground. 10 g per 3 liters of water.

On potatoes. 3 liters of working solution is enough to spray 1 hectare of land.

  • Spraying the soil before potato sprouts. 7-14 g of Zencor per 3 liters of water.
  • spraying the soil before crop emergence with subsequent treatment at a tops height of 5 cm. 5-10 g per 3 liters of water;
  • spraying of plantings with a height of potato tops of 5 cm. Dilute 7-8 g in 3 liters of water.

Tornado

This is a universal, continuous action drug that serves to destroy all types of weeds, including malicious ones such as wheatgrass, thistle, bindweed and unwanted trees and shrubs.

Active substance: glyphosate (isopropylamine salt). The herbicide is available in containers of 5 ml (ampoule), 50 ml, 100 ml, 1000 ml (bottle).
Analogues of the drug Tornado: Glysol, Glialka, Ground, Roundup, Hurricane, GlyTERR.

How does Tornado herbicide work?

It has a systemic effect, penetrates into weeds through leaves and other green parts and is transported throughout all organs of the weed, reaching their root system. The herbicide blocks the synthesis of aromatic amino acids, which leads to damage to growth points and complete death of above-ground and underground organs. Tornado does not affect seeds.

Symptoms of the drug’s effect on annual weeds become noticeable after 4 - 5 days, on perennial weeds - after 7 - 10, on trees and shrubs and reeds - on the 20 - 30th day after treatment and appear in the form of yellowing, then drying out of the leaves. Next, the stems, roots and rhizomes die off. Complete death of weeds occurs approximately 3 - 4 weeks after treatment, and tree and shrub vegetation - after 1 - 2 months. Under unfavorable weather conditions (cold, drought, precipitation), the effect of the herbicide may slow down.

Advantages of this herbicide:

  • high penetrating ability;
  • ability to destroy 155 species of weeds;
  • ideal for tilling the soil before sowing.

When spraying, you need to make sure that Tornado does not get on crop plants and forest belts. To avoid spray drift onto crops, it is not recommended to carry out treatment at wind speeds of more than 5 m/s.

Since this herbicide does not have soil activity, selective herbicides must be used to kill weeds growing from seeds after crop emergence.

How to use Tornado

  • Against annual cereals and dicotyledons, 20-40 ml/100 sq.m. is sufficient. m;
  • against perennial cereals and dicotyledons - 40-60 ml/100 sq.m;
  • against malicious perennials (field bindweed, pink bitterweed, horsetail, horsetail) - 60-80 ml/100 sq.m;
  • against hydrophytic (aquatic) - 80-100 ml/100 sq.m;
  • against deciduous trees and shrubs - 40-80 ml/100 sq.m.

The dosage is influenced by the type of weed, stage of development, foliage, and grass density.

The recommended concentration of the working solution is 1 - 3%. The working solution is prepared immediately before spraying and is not stored. First, the drug is thoroughly mixed in the original packaging, then the required amount of the drug is measured for one sprayer refill. Fill the sprayer tank approximately halfway with water and pour in a measured amount of herbicide, mix and bring the sprayer tank to full volume with water. Mix everything thoroughly.

Treatments with Tornado can be carried out at any above-zero temperatures, both in spring and autumn.

Treatment should be carried out in calm, dry weather and not in the sun. Rain falling earlier than 4 hours after spraying can wash away the drug that has not penetrated the weed leaves and significantly reduce the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Prima

This is a systemic post-emergence herbicide intended for the control of annual and some perennial dicotyledonous weeds in grain crops and corn. Affects weeds that have already sprouted at the time of treatment.

Destroys many dicotyledonous weeds, including such malicious and difficult-to-eradicate species as: tenacious bedstraw, odorless chamomile, field thistle, yellow sow thistle and others.

Active substance: 2,4-D (2-ethylhexyl ester) + florasulam.

How does Prima herbicide work?

Easily absorbed and quickly (literally within an hour) spreads throughout weed plant, blocking growth processes.

Symptoms of damage (visible) in plants appear 1-3 days after spraying, and their death occurs on 7-14 days. Rain 1 hour after treatment will no longer affect the effectiveness of Prima herbicide.

Due to the fact that the half-life of the active ingredients of this drug is only 14-20 days, it quickly degrades in the soil without affecting negative consequences for subsequent crop rotations.

How to use Prima herbicide

Prepare the working solution immediately before use. To begin with, the drug is thoroughly mixed in the original packaging. The sprayer tank is filled 1/3 with water. Next add required amount of the drug per 1 filling of the sprayer, mix. Then add water to the full volume of the tank and mix the resulting mixture.

On spring and winter wheat, rye, spring barley.

  • Spraying crops in the tillering phase of the crop and the early phases of weed growth. Winter crops are processed in the spring. The rate of use of the drug is 0.4-0.6 l. Consumption working fluid- 200-400 l/ha.
  • Spraying crops in the boll phase (1-2 internodes) of the crop and the early phases of weed growth (taking into account the sensitivity of the varieties) in the case of the predominance of tenacious bedstraw; If weather processing was not allowed before this date. Winter crops are processed in the spring. The rate of application of the Herbicide is 0.6 l.


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