Where is the best place to dig a well on the site? Installation of the above-ground part of the well

Many summer residents are thinking about getting their own well on their property. Experts call the end of summer - beginning of autumn the most optimal time for digging a well. Where to choose a place for a well, how to use it and how to care for it, what not to lose sight of when preparing for work, how much it can cost, the correspondent of the portal “In the Moscow Region” found out.

IN in the right place and at the right time

Many well builders claim that wells can be dug at almost any time, with the exception of spring floods. And yet, summer residents are advised to start constructing a well in the summer, preferably in August-September. Firstly, the aquifers into which well diggers strive to “get” have their lowest levels at this time. Therefore, there is less risk of not digging the well, having reached the horizon raised by rain or melting snow, which in dry summer weather will simply dry out and the well will remain empty. Secondly, summer is also convenient because summer residents spend a lot of time on their plots, and it is easier for them to control the arrangement process.

Second important question- choosing a place for a well. It is believed that it is important to dig a well where the aquifer is closest to the surface of the earth - this will reduce the amount of work. How to find this place? Most experienced well workers recommend not using the method of determining the depth of water using a vine, metal frames etc. as they are not accurate. Meanwhile, expert advice sometimes contradicts each other, which suggests that each piece of land is individual, and a number of factors must be taken into account when choosing a location. Even the popular belief that it is more reliable to install a well in lowlands and areas with lush vegetation is not always true. The lowest or wettest place on the surface may not always be the cleanest.

An experienced gardener knows what kind of soil he has on his site at a depth of one or two meters, but water at such a shallow depth is not used for drinking - here the count goes to tens of meters. Obviously, it is impossible to independently determine where on the site the water is closer and better in terms of soil quality. In this matter, it is worth listening to the opinion of a specialist. There are others, no less important factors to select a location for a well:

Interview neighbors who already have wells: how deep they are, what problems they encountered during their construction, what kind of soil is on the site, this information may be useful;

Take into account not only the current appearance of the site (the well must fit into the landscape), but also the changes planned in the near future, because the well cannot be moved a couple of meters to accommodate the construction of a gazebo or bathhouse;

Consider the optimal distance from home.

How to Determine Depth

The depth of the future well is difficult to determine in advance. If your neighbors have a well dug on their property, its depth will serve as a guide, but only approximate. According to experts, two wells dug at a distance of five meters from each other can have completely different depths and “characters.”

According to the head of the School of Well Masters, Grigory Petrovich Balabanov, in the Moscow region the average depth of wells is 8-12 reinforced concrete rings. So, in the Orekhovo-Zuevsky, Shatursky, Taldomsky, Solnechnogorsky districts, the depth is less, since there are flat floodplain areas. And in the Dmitrovsky and Sergiev Posad regions you have to dig deeper, 30 meters or more.

What does the cost consist of?

A number of factors influence the cost. First of all, the depth of the well. Most often used in construction iron concrete rings, the price of which can vary from approximately 1500 to 3000 rubles. Burying one ring in the ground costs from 2,000 to 3,500 rubles. The bulk of the costs come from these two items. However, you should be prepared for the fact that a number of difficulties may arise in the process. For example, workers may run into a block of stone that cannot be pulled out, and they will have to dig in another place. Complicating the work is also the encounter with “quicksand” – water-saturated soil.

Therefore, you need to discuss in advance with the team of workers the question of whether wages increase in such cases, and if so, by how much. If a company enters into an agreement with you, check whether such nuances are agreed upon so as not to incur unexpected expenses. Also pay attention to whether the company’s responsibilities include service support of the well, inspection and troubleshooting in case of customer dissatisfaction, etc.

So, if your well is ten rings deep, its basic cost can start from 35 thousand rubles (the price of ten rings plus the cost of the crew’s work). Some summer residents, wanting to save money, limit themselves to a well “for watering the garden” or other household needs and bury about three rings, this reduces the cost; a well can cost about 15 thousand. However, water from such a source cannot be used for drinking or cooking.

It is important to tell the crew in advance what you need the well for. If only for drinking or watering - this is one option, simple and cheaper. And if, for example, the water from it goes into the washing machine and the bathhouse, and is also used in winter, this will require the creation of more complex system supply and protection of pipes, and accordingly, will affect the cost.

Often, both a pump and an over-well house with a shaft and a bucket on a chain are installed in wells - it will come in handy in case of a power outage and will simply add color to the well. The cost of the pump depends on the model and power (prices range from 6 to 20 thousand rubles), and the cost of the house depends on its size, material, and design. This is another 6 - 10 thousand rubles or more.

An additional cost item, if desired by the customer, may be the service of removing soil from the site. After all, all the earth dug up during work will end up on your six acres. If you don’t want to remove it yourself, ask the workers in advance if they will remove it and for how much.

Well formation stage

When a well is dug, it is left alone for a while - the soil must settle, the water must make its way, etc. According to well masters, a well in a state of rest “tells its own story.” For example, many owners are scared if the bottom ring of a well dug in clay quicksand is covered with clay. But in fact, in this case, you need to make allowances for the peculiarities of the soil and just not “disturb” the bottom of the well, try not to draw water at the maximum depth.

An important step in the formation of a well is the installation of a “clay castle”. This is a layer of crumpled compacted clay, which serves as a barrier to the entry of high water, unsuitable for drinking, into the well. It is poured along the outer wall of the well to a depth of about two rings and about a meter wide and raised above ground level.

During the first year, soil settlement and well formation continue. When this process is completed, you can make a blind area around the well, which is needed for additional protection from melt and surface water.

In order to be completely confident in the quality of water from a well, it is recommended that after the well is formed and the water has settled, determine its quality using “folk methods” (taste, smell, loss or absence of sediment after settling and after boiling) or submit the water for examination .

How to monitor a well

According to Grigory Balabanov, one of the biggest mistakes made by summer residents is the complete pumping of water from the well, which some do for preventive purposes. In fact, this procedure “traumatizes” the well and forces it to form anew. It is recommended to take water from the well as needed. In some cases, you should not pump out more than half of it, in others - no more than 15-20% (especially when the well is built on quicksand). If you know such details, you can avoid cloudy water and some other problems.

The well is prepared for winter depending on its complexity - the simplest ones are only covered with insulating covers, and the above-ground pipes are drained so that they do not burst. Well owners must be prepared for the spring deterioration in water quality, which is often accompanied by an increase in its level. In some cases, it is pumped out in small portions, in others they simply wait a week or two until the water drops.

Also, the well will last longer if you carefully monitor the condition of the clay castle and the seams between the rings and carry out repairs in case of damage. It may be necessary to clean the well, which also needs to be done in a timely manner. In order to carry out such work effectively, it is worth asking the company or team, even before the start of construction, under what conditions they will accompany the dug wells in the future. After all, it is better for the well to be maintained by the same people.

Svetlana KONDRATIEVA

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It cannot perform its main function, so experts recommend not to rush into buying the first one you come across. You should also be interested not only in the quantity, but also in the quality of the liquid, since your health will directly depend on this. Most often, homeowners try to gain autonomy from the water utility by making wells or boreholes on the site.

In the photo - a dacha autonomous source of water supply from reinforced concrete rings

In addition, they provide the opportunity to save significant money in the future. In this article we will talk about the types of wells for a summer cottage, their features and manufacturing methods.

Kinds

There are two main types - mine and key. Let's look at them in more detail:

Here you see - how and with what to close a well at the dacha to prevent debris and precipitation from getting into it

There is also a third type - Abyssinian well, but it is made by “piercing” the soil to the aquifer. Its depth usually does not exceed 15 m, and the diameter of the well is 25-75 mm. It got its name from the country of Abyssinia.

In order to make a well in a dacha of this design, you will need a buried pipe with a conical tip at the end. A filter is installed in it to purify rising water.

On light soil, pipes of small diameter (25-35 mm) are driven into it; for larger ones, drilling is carried out to install them. The main disadvantage of the structure is that the well cannot lift water from a depth of more than 8 m.

A piston pump with a manual or electric drive is used for operation. The well's yield depends only on the thickness of the aquifer.

The main advantage of the structure is the speed of its production and the low price of materials. You can install it yourself or hire a professional team.

Choosing a place

It is not always possible to place the well exactly where you would like it to be on the site. In this case, everything depends on the location of the aquifer. This can be determined with the help of geological exploration, which has branches in all regions.

Advice: spend time and money, but call a professional specialist, in the end these expenses will quickly pay off, otherwise, your expenses will be in vain.

The installation location of the future well is the main stage of water supply to the site. Therefore, do not be lazy and ask your neighbors about changes during the seasons, the quality of water, or better yet, take it for a sample and submit it to the SES for inspection. Don't think this is extra costs, take care of your health.

We may not know that any discharges are reaching the aquifer. Therefore, a thorough check of a summer cottage, even if it is located in an ecological area and far from industrial enterprises, will still not be superfluous.

After determining the purity and depth of groundwater, you can begin to work. Please note that there is a standard sanitary zone, which does not allow installation drinking well closer than 20 m from buildings where pets are kept and restrooms.

Advice: before installing on site country houses from a block of containers, determine the location for the future water source.

We use concrete rings

Before starting digging, determine the composition of the soil:

• light – sand;
• a little more difficult - earth;
• complex - clay;
• It is impossible to dig wild stone; it is better to drill it.

Advice: pay attention to the fact that serious problems are caused by quicksand - moving wet sand that can move soil-retaining structures.

Reinforced concrete rings are considered the most convenient material for forming the walls of a well. The best of them are with a lock, which is the name given to the corresponding protrusion and annular groove for reliable fixation when assembling relative to each other, but their price is more expensive than usual. The optimal diameter is 900 mm.

Process instruction:

1. Work should be carried out when groundwater is minimal, usually August – October.
2. Immediately you need to provide a place for the soil to be removed. The approximate volume is 5-6 m3, and the distance from the warehouse to the well must be at least 5 m.
3. Dig the first 2 m slightly wider than the diameter of the rings so that they go down without delay.
4. The ideal option is rings with locks, otherwise bend the mounting loops inward and weld them together. This way you can avoid their displacement when the ground moves.
5. Dig the soil under the rings so that they sink under their own weight.
6. Check the verticality of the structure with a plumb line.

An important point is to seal the gaps that inevitably arise between the rings. This will protect the structure from the ingress of water passing along the walls, spillage of soil, and will prevent seepage of the non-potable upper aquifer layer.

The best option is to install a special rubber seal. In this case, you must require a medical certificate of conformity for the product. Otherwise, refuse the purchase and seal the seams with cement.

Tip: you can use a thick natural rope for sealing, wound several times around the groove.

After installing all the rings, you should deepen the well at the dacha into the aquifer by 1 m or more. Then waterproof the upper part of the structure, which has a diameter wider than the rings. The upper hydraulic lock consists of clay filled in and compacted between the soil and the walls of the well.

A method similar to the previous one is the use of sliding formwork. IN in this case the walls have no seams, and if you increase their thickness, you don’t have to use reinforcement.

If you have the opportunity, make the walls of the structure monolithic. This method has advantages, but it takes a long time, since you have to wait about a week between fills.

Tip: for uninterrupted operation pump in a well or well, you may need to rent a diesel generator for your dacha.

Conclusion

- the first way to get on it comfortable conditions. There are several options for this, including standalone. This article examined in detail the characteristics of dacha structures of this type, gave recommendations and a phased construction project.

The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.

Having your own source of water at your favorite summer cottage will significantly increase the level of comfort. It will eliminate the need to carry buckets of water to care for carefully grown plants or to fill containers in a bathhouse or shower.

The construction of a water intake structure can be entrusted to a team of workers specializing in this field. But it is better to dig and equip a well at your dacha with your own hands, investing a minimum of money in it.

Any enterprise requires the future performer to carefully preliminary preparation. Especially something as labor-intensive as digging a well.

Errors in planning, distribution of forces and work stages will certainly affect the result. IN best case scenario construction will last for a long, but unknown period of time, and at worst, it will end with the construction of a useless tunnel “to nowhere.”

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Research by an independent hydrogeologist

In order to eliminate the senseless expenditure of funds and muscular effort, it is necessary to conduct preliminary hydrogeological studies. The best option survey - drilling, but doing it on your own before building a well is at least unwise, and hiring drillers is expensive and unprofitable. It would be better to drill a water well right away.

Independent hydrogeological surveys consist of a banal survey of neighbors who have their own well or well. You need to find out from them:

• At what depth does the water surface stand during flood and dry periods?
• How many meters were drilled or excavated to construct the water intake structure.
• Doesn’t water tend to “leave” from the water intake shaft if the summer is not pleasant with precipitation for two or three weeks, but is exhausting with heat.
• What kind of soil was extracted from the borehole or well during their development: was it clayey or sandy?
• Have drillers ever had to break a boulder with a chisel, or well builders have had to lift a large, heavy stone from a well?

Traditionally, suburban land plots and summer cottages are located in flat areas without pronounced relief structures. Wells are dug in sedimentary deposits that can be easily mined. Work is carried out to the first aquifer, trying to bypass and block the high water if it is located at a depth of about 3-4 m from the surface.

Most holiday villages are located in flat areas, which are characterized by almost horizontal occurrence of soil layers. Groundwater in flat areas lies almost at the same level

Underground water, contained by the pores of sedimentary rocks, usually occurs in the form of a kind of pool. According to gravitational regulations and the law of communicating vessels, the surface of this pool is located at almost the same depth at all points. This means that the geological and hydrogeological situation on your site will be almost the same as that of your neighbor.

Some level deviations are recorded as the groundwater moves. For example, if it is unloaded in the form of a spring in a ravine located 3-5 km from the work site. Then the level at a point located closer to the spring will be slightly lower than at its distant counterpart. However, these deviations can be neglected when digging a well, because their significance is usually insignificant.

Significant differences in the height of the GWL (groundwater level) will occur if the well is built on a hillside. Water will always drain in the direction of easy discharge, which the slope provides it with. Therefore, they try not to build wells on such sites, because natural drainage significantly reduces the volume of produced water.

If there is high water in the work area, the level of which is spring-autumn period will be on average 3-4 m, it is recommended to cover it with a well shaft and reach the underlying aquifer. The level and water abundance of perched water are unstable, the water is most often polluted domestic wastewater

From neighboring sources, you can determine the depth of the mirror with fairly high accuracy using a barometer. Its scale is marked in divisions with a value of 0.1 mm, which in terms of elevations is equal to 1 m. So, if above the neighboring mine the device shows 831.7 mm, and above the point of the planned well 831.5 mm, then the depth of your water intake the structure will be 2 m more.

Information about the composition of soils will help evaluate own strength for independent digging. If the neighbors assure you of the complexity of the development and the availability large quantity boulders, it is better to delegate the work to a team of shabashniks. You will still have to monitor their actions, which means you need to familiarize yourself with well construction technologies.

The approximate water level in the well planned for construction can be determined by the mirror of a nearby reservoir. The water in the well will be at approximately the same levels

In addition to the “testimony” of the owners of existing water intake structures, organizations that carried out drilling or construction near your site can provide information about the hydrogeological conditions of the area. Information can be provided by the local weather service, which has a complete package of data on climatic conditions, natural phenomena and geological conditions in the region.

How to determine a place to dig a well

For the water intake structure it is necessary in advance. It is undesirable to arrange it in a place where garden plants have been planted for several decades and the soil has been fertilized with chemical compounds.

Please note that well water is rarely drinkable. If the plans do not include the extraction of the drinking category, then you can ignore the previous cycles of fertilizer application.

Due to the small size summer cottages it is difficult to find a place to install a well with drinking water. Due to the insufficient distance from possible groundwater contaminants to the source, it can only be used for cleaning and irrigation (+)

We list the main factors influencing the selection of a site for building a well:

• Elimination of contamination. Distance from places where negative components are likely to be introduced: from domestic and outbuildings, livestock pens, cesspools, compost heaps at least 20 m. In the case of constructing a well with drinking water, there should be no such objects at all on the summer cottage.
• Cost reduction. The shortest and most direct pipeline route if a water supply system is planned. The shorter the length of the highway, the less money will be spent.
• Optimal location. There should be a minimum of 5 m between the foundation of the dacha and the well. Water intake structure will “draw” groundwater into itself according to the principle of a whirlpool. It will constantly strive to replenish the depleted reserves, attracting not only water, but also soil particles, which will ultimately wash away the soil under the foundation if the well is close.

Vast summer cottages are rare in our realities, so choosing a place in the direction of movement of underground water on the site is strange, to say the least. However, if the ground surface of the plot has a certain slope, then, if possible, it is better to choose a place for the well at the lowest point. There, the thickness of soil to be excavated will be smaller, and the influx of water will be greater.

According to the requirements of SanPiN number 2.1.4.544-96 between the source drinking water and objects of probable groundwater contamination ( cesspools, compost heaps, cattle pens, etc.) must be at least 50 m

Specifics of a typical well design

The maximum depth of a traditional well with a shaft-shaft is considered to be 30 m. Digging below is dangerous, too difficult, and impractical in terms of costs and labor costs. At the dacha, you can make a very shallow well, the height of the shaft will be 6 - 8 m.

Digging a shallow mine is not difficult; a standard bucket or an inexpensive one will do to extract water. surface pump. However, the extracted water from shallow workings is applicable exclusively for irrigation and other economic purposes.

A water intake can be made with a shaft 15 - 20 m deep. From such a depth there is a greater likelihood of obtaining drinking water. The chances especially increase if the aquifer is covered by loam or sandy loam - clayey rocks that do not allow water to pass through. They prevent the penetration of atmospheric and flood water along with household wastewater, industrial oils, and chemicals.

The well builder's task is not only to extract soil from the excavation, but also to form the walls of the well shaft. They are constructed from stone, brick, logs, wood plates, timber, monolithic reinforced concrete poured into formwork placed in a pit.

The most common material option for wall construction at the moment is factory-made concrete rings or home-made analogues, poured into a mold right on the work site.

Regardless of the material used to construct the walls of the shaft well, its design includes three main elements: 1 - water intake part, 2 - barrel, head (+)

Regardless of the material used to construct the walls of the well, they are constructed in accordance with a single design diagram. Its main parts are:

• Header. The part of the mine that rises above the earth's surface. The standard height is 0.7 - 0.8 m, but with variations. Equipped well house for protection from atmospheric negativity. For manual lifting of water it is equipped with a collar or crane.
• Trunk. The part of the mine measured from the earth's surface to the water surface. Serves to strengthen the walls of the excavation and to protect against ground collapses.
• Water intake part. A section of a mine immersed in an aquifer. The main working element of a well, ensuring the supply of water to the structure and, if necessary, creating a supply.

Except geometric parameters There are no significant differences in the structure of the head and barrel. The width and height vary, and the shape of the shaft in plan: square or round. The main design difference that determines the division of wells into types is determined by the design principle of the water intake part.

Based on differences in the design of the water intake part, wells are divided into:

• Imperfect. The water receiving part of this type is immersed in the water-saturated formation at approximately 70% of the capacity of the water carrier. The mine is not installed on an aquifer, therefore the influx of water into it occurs both through the bottom and through the walls of the water intake part.
• Perfect. The water intake part is completely buried in the aquifer. The base of the mine rests on a water-resistant layer, which is why the influx of water occurs exclusively through the side walls.
• Perfect with a sump. The water intake part rests on a water-resistant layer; water enters the shaft from the side through the walls. The water intake is supplemented with a kind of reservoir formed in the underlying waterproof layer.

The sump is arranged to form a water supply. Consequently, its volume is calculated based on the actual daily consumption. If it is necessary to increase the volume of water that can be pumped out at a time, the sump is arranged in the form of a bell with an expansion towards the base.

The well design is chosen in accordance with the geological situation in the work area, the experience of neighbors in building similar sources and the real need for water of future owners

A survey of neighbors can also help in wisely choosing the optimal well design. A similar imperfect scheme or a perfect scheme supplemented with a sump may suit you. It all depends on your actual water needs.

It should be remembered that well water cannot “stagnate” in the mine. If it stays there for a long time, it will bloom or begin to rot. If you do not plan to permanently live in a country house with abundant water procedures, then an imperfect design will provide a sufficient amount of water. At the bottom of it, a bottom filter is made of gravel or crushed stone to retain grains of sand.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings

Constructing a water source on a summer cottage is the simplest option that can be done independently. Using ready-made rings will allow you to dig an excellent well at your dacha with minimal loss of effort and expense of money, and, if desired, decorate the head with a stone or log. However, the most economical method will still be the one that involves pouring concrete well elements yourself.

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Technology of construction from ready-made rings

In the construction of wells from concrete rings, the lowering method is mainly used. Although you can go the other way: install concrete elements in a pre-dug shaft, but the lowering method is more practical and safe. With it, the walls of the mine are strengthened simultaneously with the extraction of soil, which prevents the collapse of loose soils. rocks into the barrel during operation.

For the construction of a well, both concrete and reinforced concrete rings with a locking chamfer along the end edge are suitable. Note that with equal sizes, the first and second options differ in weight. For example, with the dimensions of a concrete ring Ø 1 m and a height of 0.7 m, the weight will be on average 800 kg. A similar reinforced concrete element will weigh only about 500 kg.

Using reinforced concrete factory rings is the easiest way and most convenient material for constructing a mine well

In addition, the wall thickness of a concrete ring for constructing a well must be at least 10 cm, preferably 12 cm. And when using reinforced concrete rings, a minimum of 6 cm is allowed, but the average thickness is 7 - 8 cm.

The size of the walls is largely reflected in the size of the internal diameter, and this in turn affects the convenience during the development of the mine and the subsequent use of the well.

The construction of a well shaft from concrete rings does not require the mandatory use of lifting equipment

It is better to construct a well shaft using the lowering method, but you can install them in a pre-dug pit using the technology shown in the diagram

The appropriate diameter of the rings is selected based on the comfortable position of the worker while digging in the mine. On average, this is from 1.0 m to a maximum of 1.5 m. You should not hope that there will be more water in a wide well. If it is imperfect, then the influx will be equal to both the wide and narrow trunk.

In addition to the factory-made concrete rings, you also need to purchase a shoe - a shortened concrete ring equipped with a cutter along the lower edge. It will speed up penetration and ensure smooth immersion of the column of concrete elements into the ground. When constructing a shaft from homemade rings, the lower edge of the starting ring is made in the form of a cone.

A tripod with a block for a rope with a hook attached to its top will help to significantly facilitate the process of lifting soil from a well shaft. Lowering and lifting can be done using a manual winch or an electric winch

If, when digging a neighbor's well, loose sand was extracted, then there is a possibility that the upper part of the trunk would be clamped by collapsed rock. At the same time, the lower part continues to fall, the upper part remains clamped in place, and a gap appears between them, which is extremely difficult to eliminate. To avoid such a serious accident, it is better to stock up on a 16 mm rod for making brackets fastening the rings or a strip 5-10 mm thick.

To facilitate the procedure for lifting soil from a mine being developed, it is advisable to make a tripod and attach a block to its top. This makes it easier and faster to free the trunk from the dumped rock.

The stepped version of the well shaft arrangement is made of cone-shaped rings, which form stiffening ribs on the outside, and steps on the inside for ascent/descent

The most common method of constructing a well from rings is the lowering method, according to which the trunk is built up from above and immersed in the ground by digging from below.

Concrete or reinforced concrete elements for the construction of a well shaft are purchased in advance, taking into account the height of the neighbors' shaft, or are poured at the construction site

Steps of the lowering method of constructing an imperfect shaft well:

• We mark the outline of the shaft according to the actual sizes of the rings. The simplest marking method is to install a peg in the center with a string tied to it, equal to half ring diameter. With this simplified compass we need to outline the boundaries.
• We dig out a round pit according to the markings. It may be slightly wider than the outline to make it easier to immerse the starting ring. We dig to about ¾ of the height concrete element.
• We install a shoe with a cutter in the pit and check its position with a level. If necessary, we align the position so that there is no further distortion of the barrel.
• We immerse the starting ring into the shaft. We fasten it to the shoe in four places with staples or metal plates cut from a strip, if there is no confidence that the shoe will not separate from the concrete column when immersed.
• We select the soil inside the shaft without digging it under the shoe.
• We dig four or more cavities under the shoe so that logs, bricks, or similar temporary supports of equal height can fit there.
• We install the supports so that the assembled part of the well rests evenly on them. We control the fit of the barrel with a level and plumb line, so as not to subsequently correct flaws that increase with depth.
• We dig up the remaining areas under the shoe and knock out temporary supports.
• We plant the ring into the ground, trying to maintain uniform immersion.
• We act in accordance with the algorithm described above until the upper edge of the ring is aligned with the day surface.
• We lay a sealant along the chamfer of the installed ring - tarred hemp cord Ø 20 mm. We use a seal for at least three to five lower rings. It is needed in the water intake part and a little higher in case the level rises during the flood period.
• We install the next ring, if necessary, connect it to the previous one in 3 - 4 places around the circumference.

Using this method, we go deeper and increase the rings until water-saturated sand appears. We bury as many meters of shaft into it as the neighbors had. At this time, it will be necessary to constantly pump out water from the excavation so that it does not interfere with the worker.

The diagram shows the process of digging up soil under the cutting shoe of a well trunk step by step

If there is no information on deepening into the aquifer, then after installing at least one concrete element, another simplified reconnaissance must be done. Before digging up the soil under the trunk, you need to dig something like a hole in the center. If there is only sand and small stones in the pit, then the development of the mine can be continued until the next ring is immersed.

Then exploration is carried out again until the roof of the waterproof layer appears at the bottom of the pit - clayey rock similar to plasticine. This is a signal to stop digging. Now the work in the mine consists only of installing a bottom filter made of a three-layer gravel backfill. The gravel is poured into three tiers 15–20 cm thick. The fraction of each upper layer should be larger than the lower one.

To prevent shear and displacement of concrete rings, they are connected with bent brackets made of reinforcing bars, welded brackets or metal plates with bolted fastenings (+)

When installing a perfect type of well at a dacha, the shaft should be installed on the roof of a water-resistant layer. Naturally, there is no need to conduct exploration during the digging period. The shaft is simply gradually immersed until it hits the aquiclude.

It should be noted that one or more starting links of a perfect well must allow water to pass through the walls. To do this, semblances of windows are formed in rings in a checkerboard pattern, filled with fine mesh, slag concrete crackers or similar porous materials with filtering capabilities. The number of rings should be such as to completely cover and slightly exceed the capacity of the water carrier.

Rings with side filters are used not only in the construction of perfect wells, but also in the construction of imperfect structures in layers with low water inflow.

In order to increase the flow of water into imperfect wells with a small flow rate and to install a filtering water receiving part of a perfect well, the starting ring is arranged with perforation. Its function can be performed by peculiar “windows” made of large-porous concrete or holes filled with a fine stainless steel mesh

Method of making homemade rings

The construction technology is similar to the previous method, but is complicated by the procedure for making concrete rings. To do this, you need to stock up in advance on collapsible formwork from boards or sheet metal interconnected into one sheet.

It is clear that the formwork must be paired: one part must follow the outer surface of the ring, the second the inner one. It is better to select the size and shape of the formwork according to the dimensions of the factory rings.

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To prepare the solution you will need Portland cement grade of at least 400, river or quarry sand and gravel of fraction 30 - 70. In order for the rings to sink freely into the ground, the walls of the handmade product need to be as smooth as possible. Therefore, preference should be given to fine gravel.

Water is needed with neutral acidity. Its volume is determined according to VTs graphs, taking into account that the water-cement ratio for filling the elements of the well cannot be less than 0.7. Taking into account the consumption of cement and water, it is possible to calculate the volume of initial components for the manufacture of rings.

To produce rings yourself, you need to develop a formwork design. Optimal proportions concrete mixture 1:2,5:4 and/or 1:2:3; CC from 0.5 to 0.7

Joining the elements of a concrete shaft will be carried out faster and with greater accuracy if an end chamfer is provided during pouring

If you plan to install concrete rings in a pit using construction equipment, you should install mounting loops in the reinforcement frame

It is necessary to think in advance about the type of seam edge of the rings: the butt quarter will be straight or with a beveled wall. To form a rebate during the pouring period, two more ring-shaped parts will be required, one of which must be laid on the bottom of the formwork, the second on top of the pouring. These parts must fit together so that the manufactured well elements can fit tightly together.

At the formwork preparation stage, a decision is made on the use of reinforcement. If a reinforcing frame is used, the consumption of grout for filling will be reduced. It is possible that the cost of the ring will increase slightly, but at the same time the rigidity and strength of the structure will increase.

The reinforcement is constructed from vertically installed rods and horizontally laid rings from 10 - 12 mm bar. The diameter of the rings should be smaller size the outer part of the assembled formwork, but larger than the inner part, so that the structure fits freely into the gap formed by them.

Between vertical elements reinforcement cage should be about 25 cm, between horizontal rings 10 -20 cm. To create a unified system, reinforcing bars and rings are fastened with knitting wire.

The formwork is filled in layers 100 - 150 mm thick. As the solution is filled, it is compacted until laitance appears on the surface. Tamping must be done; the denser the solution is laid, the higher strength characteristics products.

After laying the mixture into the formwork, care should be taken to ensure that it hardens correctly. For the first 10 days, the ring must be protected from possible freezing and drying out. The surface should be periodically moistened or covered with damp sawdust.

Having completed the construction of the mine, you should equip the well head and build a clay castle - a ring of crumpled compacted clay. The width of the castle is 0.5 m, its depth is from 1.0 to 1.5 m (+)

The starting ring is made with a lower cutting edge. If you don’t want to bother with the edge device, you can buy or fill the shoe separately. The formation of filter windows in the walls of concrete rings, as in the previous case, depends on the structural type of the well. The technology for constructing a mine from homemade rings is no different at all.

All are used in cladding possible materials, imitating natural stone or brickwork

The stylization of a log or timber frame, made only for the ground part of a mine well, looks great

Having completed the work on constructing a well shaft, you can safely begin arranging your own source. At the bottom of an imperfect structure, the trunk of which is buried in the aquifer, but does not rest on water-resistant rock, a bottom filter should be built.

The bottom of an imperfect type well should be equipped bottom filter. It is filled with three layers of rocks with good filtration properties. The first layer is about 10 cm of sand, then 15 cm of fine gravel and on top of larger gravel (+)

A clay castle should be placed around the trunk to protect against household waste from entering the shaft. The head must be equipped with at least a lid or canopy and a lifting device well water.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

A video with a step-by-step demonstration of the process of constructing a mine well with your own hands:

Building your own well is not an easy, but completely doable task, which a home craftsman can easily solve without the involvement of hired workers. True, he will need at least two assistants to extract soil to the surface and to monitor the condition of the worker at the bottom of the mine.

In case of dizziness, it is necessary to immediately raise it to the surface, and before work, regularly check the gas content with a burning candle or gas analyzer.

Even if you bought a plot of land without expecting further development, and only plan to plant a garden or vegetable garden on it, you, in any case, need to establish a water supply. Moreover, water is needed if you build a house on your land. Clean water from a well is incomparable to tap water - that's a fact. Surely you are looking for specialists who will relieve you of the need to build a well yourself and then care for it. What do you need to know to get started?

The construction of a well can help solve the problem of drinking water in a summer cottage. Before you start digging a well, you need to choose the right place and have information on how to properly drill a well and how best to strengthen its walls.

The problem of drinking water in the lap of nature is more than relevant. Even if you live on the shore of an immaculate body of water, you cannot drink the water from it without serious purification. And cleaning means money, and also chemicals that will enter your body. Therefore, you need to either drill a well on the site or dig a well.

You should think about all this in advance, that is, before construction begins. The presence of water on the site must be determined at the stage of engineering-geological surveys, when the soil is checked, the depth of groundwater is determined, etc. If there is a main line nearby that supplies water to the nearest populated area, then it is better to connect to this main line. But if it is not there, you will have to go deep into the depths yourself and get the much-needed water from there.

Our ancestors most often dug wells on plots (sometimes there were several common wells per village). The well served well for many years, supplying clean water, and the owner did not know grief. Now the situation has changed: in a number of cases, water from the layer of free-flow groundwater does not meet sanitary standards, and septic tanks have appeared on the sites, and it is necessary to move the well as far away from them as possible. Therefore, many owners of modern country houses prefer to drill wells.

However, wells are still being built. It’s only a pity that many homeowners strive to equip them at the lowest cost, saving on the professionalism of those who are not involved in this at all. simple matter. The results are disastrous: as a result of illiterate work, buildings on the site are deformed, and concrete rings are leaking in the spring melt water, making well water undrinkable from March to mid-June. It also happens that the owner of the site decides not to spend money on an initial soil examination, and the water in the well is yellow.

Strictly speaking, you can equip a well at any time of the year, even in winter. However, in the spring, when the snow melts, there is a risk of incorrectly determining the required depth of the well. During this period of the year, groundwater is high, and the proper water level in April will turn out, say, in August not to meet your needs (fluctuations can reach two meters). Therefore, professionals recommend digging a well in the fall, when the groundwater level is lowest.

A traditional well in a special language is called a shaft well (a well is called tube well). If the aquifer is shallow (up to 10 m), such a water intake can be built on your own. However, everything more people turn to specialists who know how to identify the aquifer and determine the nature of the underground reservoir.

The basis of the well is the walls of the shaft, which are strengthened either in the traditional way (a log house made of thick logs) or with concrete rings. Brick or wild stone masonry is also used, but less frequently. The mine is deepened into aquifers in such a way that the thickness of clean, settled water is at least one meter.

If wood is chosen to strengthen the walls, then the lower part of the frame, which is constantly in water, should be made of species that are durable and have a long service life before rotting begins - oak, pine, alder, larch, elm. Relatively small logs with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters are preferred.

More modern way- use of concrete rings. They must be selected with special care, since low-quality unreinforced concrete may not withstand the load immediately or begin to collapse already during the operation of the well. The height of the ring is from 0.6 to 0.9 m, the diameter is 1, 1.25 or 1.5 m, depending on the depth of the shaft. The part of the well protruding above the ground is called the head; it rises to a height of 0.7 to 1 m. The head, as a rule, is equipped with a blind area, and it must be done with a slope from the log house. It is preferable to pave the blind area with stone, brick or tiles so that rain and melt water do not fall into the well shaft. For the same purpose, drainage grooves are made in the blind area.

A concrete ring can weigh more than 700 kg, so lifting equipment is sometimes used during installation. It is also possible to lay the rings manually: they are placed on top of each other, and a reinforced concrete pipe is formed. In this case, soil is removed from under the first ring, and the rest are lowered under their own weight, sliding along the walls of the cylindrical shaft. And so on until the aquifer is reached.

From time immemorial, the raising of well water was carried out using a gate with a bucket on a strong chain. However, nowadays they prefer to use pump equipment. Leading manufacturers are constantly improving pumps already known to consumers and delighting with innovations. Modern well pumps are equipped with a float switch and a special grille on the suction line, which protects the device from the penetration of possible contaminants. They are also protected from moisture: their hydraulic part is made of stainless steel. The volume and pressure of the supplied water allow the pump to be used in a system with home plumbing.

The maximum depth to which such a unit can be immersed under water is 20 m. The usual warnings: the device should not operate dry, the valve on the pressure pipe of a running pump should not be completely closed. It is also necessary to take into account that well pumps are designed to pump only clean water, without suspensions or fractions.

Well water

Before we begin the story about wells, let us remind you what kind of water is available underground. There are three types of groundwater: soil (the so-called perched water), groundwater and interstratal water (see figure). Soil water are formed at a depth of 0.5 to 2.5 m as a result of spring floods, heavy rains or melting snow. Therefore, they cannot be considered a reliable source of water supply: they can dry out, and their quality is questionable.

Part of the water that seeps deep into the earth forms groundwater, which accumulates in the so-called aquifer - the first from the soil surface. Below is a waterproof layer. When water lies between two aquitards, they are called interstratal. Wells are usually dug to groundwater. But wells are drilled to interstratal wells, the water in which is cleaner and preferable for drinking and household use.

The most common are two types of wells: “for sand”, up to 35 m deep, and “for limestone” - up to 100 meters and deeper. If a fountain comes out of the ground, that is, water flows under pressure, the well is called an artesian well (this is quite rare).

A sand well is drilled to the nearest aquifer, usually to a depth of 20-30 m. It consists of a casing of pipes with a diameter of approximately 12-13 cm and mesh filter. Drilling sometimes takes only one or two days. The productivity of such a well is about one cubic meter of water per hour, and the more often it is used, the longer it lasts. In this case, the well silts less and therefore lasts longer - sometimes up to 15 years.

Wells “for limestone” take longer to drill, and pipes are used more widely, up to 30 cm in diameter. There are more casing columns, which means the cost of such work is higher. I note that in different places it can vary greatly, since somewhere the aquifer lies at a depth of 40 m, and somewhere it is necessary to drill up to 100 m. But the productivity of such a well is up to 100 cubic meters of water per hour. Service life - 50 years or more. Siltation is excluded because the aquifer itself serves as a filter.

It would seem that drilling “in sand” is definitely cheaper. But if we take into account the period of operation, it turns out that in the end it is still more profitable to drill “on limestone”. In addition, here it is necessary to take into account the environmental aspect: aquifers are close to the surface of the earth, fecal water from cesspools sometimes penetrates into them, storm water etc. A deep well supplies exclusively quality water, which after a system of conventional filters can be safely used as drinking water.

After the well is drilled, it is advisable to do a chemical analysis of the water. It is recommended to take a sample after about a month of operation - during this time the composition of the water is completely stabilized. Based on the results of the analysis, water treatment equipment should be selected.
You need to drill a well no closer than three meters from the house, and in order all year round to use water, a caisson must be built at the outlet. And already from there, at a depth of more than one and a half meters - the depth of soil freezing in our region - connect the pipeline and direct it to the house.

In the wells, seamless steel pipes with a wall thickness of 5 mm are used. The pipes are connected either by welding or threaded connection. IN last years also used plastic pipes. A well turns out to be more expensive if you have to drill deeper: more pipes are required and powerful pumps. Some companies sometimes offer lighter galvanized pipes, which reduce the overall cost of the well. However, if they are used for a long time, the incoming water can be harmful to health.

In all wells, except artesian ones, it is necessary to install pumping equipment. Among the pumps available on the market, I would like to note Italian submersible pumps made of corrosion-resistant stainless steel. Cheaper and fairly reliable domestic pumps are “Malysh”, “Rucheyok” and “Aquarius” (cost ranges from 1500-3000 rubles). For comfort borehole pumps can be equipped with automation elements that will allow you to create an autonomous water supply system. In this case, the pump will be located in a well or borehole, and the automation elements will be in any easily accessible place.

There are already ready-made sets of well equipment on the market, equipped with a cable, a control device and appropriate sensors for automatic water supply. Such a system automatically maintains the set pressure at changing flow rates using a built-in speed converter. And constant pressure in the water supply network, in turn, guarantees stable operation of household appliances.

Sometimes a well is installed right in the basement of a house if the ceilings there are at least two meters. This should be a shallow well that can be drilled using a small drilling rig. A deep well requires the use of large equipment, which will not fit in the basement of any cottage. Drilling operations are carried out using heavy equipment, and there are dumps of earth left on the site, so it is better to drill a well before building a house.

In conclusion, I will repeat what was said at the very beginning. In principle, it is also possible to take water from the nearest open body of water - a stream, lake, etc. It is clear that this method is both simpler and cheaper than digging wells or drilling wells. But, given modern environmental situation In general, we do not recommend taking water from these areas. Saving on digging a mine and drilling, you will spend three times more on medicines for diseases that you risk purchasing.

Rice. Mine well made of reinforced concrete rings.

Rice. Well construction.

Of course, all of the above work on digging a well or drilling a well should be carried out by specialists, but I only gave general information so that you, as the owner or customer of these works, are aware and can correctly direct and control the entire process. And who should do the “well and borehole” work? And what are they?

Cost of digging wells

Most often, shaft wells are installed in summer cottages. Their depth usually does not exceed twenty meters. Most often, the walls of the shaft are lined with concrete rings. Nowadays, the cost of digging a well is not too high, and therefore many dacha owners prefer not to do this work themselves, but to hire specialists.

The main difficulty when digging may lie in the composition and characteristics of the soil. Often, when carrying out such work, there are specific layers that are very difficult to penetrate. This is another reason to hire professionals. In this case, a service such as digging turnkey wells is provided.

The only question for the site owner may be the price and provision of access for equipment to the work site. After all, heavy concrete rings, which can be considered the most reliable protection for the pit walls, weigh a lot and are delivered using special equipment and mechanisms. The cost of the service is of course affected by the number of concrete rings that will be installed in the pit. Please pay attention to the following factors:

1. It is difficult to choose the right place for a well, so the services of hydraulic engineers are needed. Specialists will easily find an aquifer with potable water, and if necessary, they will carry out exploratory drilling on the site so that you know exactly what the depth is groundwater and where is the best place to install a water supply system.

I do not advise you to address this issue to a team of guest workers. Unlike shabashniks, special firms have all necessary tool, so what the short term will help solve almost any problems with water supply.

2. It is important that the rings that will be installed in the pit have high quality. An oil film on the surface of the water is not a very pleasant phenomenon. For wells, a special grade of material is used.

3. It happens that water “leaves” from an already completed well, then it needs to be deepened. Quicksand and calcareous soils may also be found on the site.

4. It is no secret that water from a well that has not been cleaned for a long time contains many pathogenic bacteria that can cause various diseases. So, you need to clean and disinfect the well at least once a year.

The speed at which such work is completed may depend on a variety of factors. First of all, of course, the composition of the soil. The second important factor in this regard is the number of concrete rings. Up to ten pieces are usually laid in one day. In total, digging a well by professionals takes about two days.

Before starting work, an analysis of the site is carried out, the purpose of which is to determine the most suitable place for digging a well. Typically, companies that dig wells are also hired to clean them later. This procedure must be carried out periodically, approximately once every 2-3 years.

Moreover, the more often such an event is carried out, the better the quality of the water. Structural repairs are also carried out as necessary.

Let me add that the work will cost you an average of 50-60 thousand rubles. (digging a well, purchasing and laying concrete rings to a depth of 10 meters). Drilling sand well(up to 40 meters) or artesian well(depth up to 135 meters) will cost you about 1,500 rubles. for every meter.

Video.

Any summer resident knows: having your own well on your property is very convenient and practical. In most cases, wells are built by guest workers - people for whom the well business is just a way to earn money. But there are still professionals in Russia, masters of well making, who have long traditions and centuries of experience behind them. They know everything about creating real, environmentally friendly wells.

How to choose the right place for a well and provide your area with clean water - all the secrets of the masters in the program " Very rare" on the TV channel "Men".

It is good if a central water supply is connected to a private house or there is a river nearby. Otherwise, you have to make a decision about arranging your own water source. Let's find out how to dig a well at your dacha with your own hands.

This solution is the best option.

Stages of digging a well

Determining the cost of work

Today it is not difficult to find a company that provides services for arranging a water source in a summer cottage. Let's find out how much it costs to dig a well in a country house and how to carry out this operation.

Companies offer concrete rings along with digging. The price of work, including materials, is approximately 4,200 rubles. for each ring from the first to the tenth. The next ones will cost more, since they must be additionally strengthened to withstand soil pressure.

If the materials are yours, then you will pay about 2000 rubles. for each ring. It is also necessary to include the costs of related materials, which will amount to approximately 1000 rubles.

Additional installation of a well head (well house) will cost about 5,000 rubles.

Choosing the time and place to dig a well

Before you start organizing a source, you need to choose its location correctly, since the quality of the water depends on this, as well as the duration of operation of the well.

Let's figure out where to dig a well in the country.

• Water passing under top layers soil tends to become polluted. Therefore, you cannot build a source near a wastewater drain, garbage and compost heaps.
• When constructing a well, it is important to take into account the hydrogeological situation. For example, water in a swampy area is not suitable for drinking, since high water will penetrate into the well, along with which everything that comes in its way will enter the water.
• It is advisable to locate the source near places of water consumption. This will reduce the cost of water supply. However, you should not make a well near the house; it should be at least five meters away from the home.

Advice! When deciding on the location of a well, you can focus on nearby sources. If there are none nearby, then it is better to contact hydrologists.

Now you need to decide when is the best time to dig a well in your dacha. The ideal period for organizing a water source is autumn - early winter, since at this time the lowest water level is observed.

In spring it is difficult to choose the appropriate depth, since due to snow melting the water level fluctuates within 1-2 meters.

Technology for arranging a well at the dacha

After the location of the future source has been chosen, the main steps begin. To make work easier, it is recommended to use special devices and tools.

You will need a winch to lift the buckets, and you will also need to install a tripod through which a rope or rope will be thrown.

1. Markings are made on the site intended for digging a well. It is taken into account that the diameter of the shaft should be 10 cm larger than the ring being installed.

It is difficult to immediately determine the required depth. Of course, you can focus on the well located nearby. But on average it takes about 8-12 rings.

1. Next, they begin digging, and the rings are immersed one at a time, as the shaft is opened, to the appropriate depth, so that the ring rises 10-20 cm above the ground. The next ring is delivered to the work site on a cart that has a height corresponding to the protruding part of the ring. This will reduce the presence of a massive ring in weight to a minimum. The operation can be seen in the photo.

Important! When installing the first ring, you must carefully check the verticality, since the evenness of the entire structure depends on this.

1. After the first ring is immersed, the next ring is installed, whose weight forces the structure to sink down. The rings are fastened together with staples in the amount of at least three pieces. After installation, remove soil from the walls.

1. When considering the question of how to dig a well at your dacha yourself, it is worth noting the methods for removing soil. There are two methods, the choice of which depends on the density of the earth. If it is soft, then it can be cut through and removed from the middle without any problems.

It will be difficult to manually dig a well with clay rock with your own hands; this will require the use of special tools.

1. After installing two rings, the hole is deepened by 0.8 m, and the rings are dug in a circle so that they go deeper under their own weight. By laying hemp rope and applying a cement composition, the joints between the rings are sealed.

1. The column is built up until water appears at the bottom. The liquid along with the sand is removed, and the well itself is left for twelve hours to allow it to fill with water.

1. The next day I cleanse the source again. The procedure is carried out until a sufficient amount of relatively clean water is formed at the bottom. Cover the well with a lid and leave it for a day.
2. Next, a filter is laid, consisting of a 10-centimeter layer of fine gravel and a thirty-centimeter layer of coarse gravel.

Protecting the well from surface water

In order to know how to properly dig a well in a country house, you must not only be able to position the rings evenly, but also ensure their protection and reliable fastening.

The rings are connected with metal brackets, which are attached to bolts passing through the wall.

To prevent penetration of perched water into the source, the seam between the rings must be sealed with flax rope and cement mixture. Additionally with outside After digging in the rings, a layer of waterproofing is applied along the seams or even along the entire wall.

Note: Verkhodka is the uppermost aquifer. Shallow depth the occurrence does not provide the water with proper filtration, therefore the perched water is used only for technical purposes.

Many are convinced that such activities worsen water quality, but these words should not be believed. Water can become worse only if the water penetrates through the seams, which after some time will still become unusable.

The space dug around the well is filled with blue clay, and foam plastic is laid to prevent it from freezing (photo).

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Construction of a well house

The cap, a wooden house above the well, not only performs a decorative function, but also prevents water pollution, preventing wind-blown debris from getting inside.

1. First, a frame is built from beams or boards. First, four racks are installed, which are connected by the upper and lower trim.

1. To arrange the roof you will need to organize roof trusses, on which the sheathing will then be mounted.

1. The rafters cut at an angle are connected to each other with self-tapping screws.

1. Then cutouts are made on the rafters where they will be connected by strapping.

1. Installing jibs allows you to strengthen the structure. The rafters are fastened together with two boards, which are then lathed.

1. After this, they begin laying the roofing material, which can be used as roofing material.

1. The final stage is the installation of slate, which is attached to the roofing felt with special fasteners. Corner joints are covered with wind boards.

After the main work on the construction of the house is completed, the installation of the door begins. It is a plank shield, the manufacture of which will not be difficult.

Cut the boards to the required sizes and connect them together wooden blocks with a cross section of 2.5x3 cm. For this, two bars on top and bottom of the door will be enough.

To ensure the rigidity of the structure, another bar is attached diagonally. After covering, the handle and latch are attached, the hinges are cut in and the door is installed on the house.