How to replace the screen under the bathtub. Installation of frame types of screens for bathtubs

One of the best ways to improve the space under the bathtub and hide all aesthetic imperfections - install a special sliding screen. It will allow you to quickly, and most importantly efficiently and beautifully, hide all the flaws.

mirror option - visually increases the area of ​​the room

If desired there are various photos and video master classes that will show how to profitably design a bathroom and correctly install a sliding screen, depending on the type of bathroom and the location of the pipes.

Decide on the material

First you need to decide on the material that will be used for finishing. By and large, all the proposed materials are quite suitable, the only difference is installation and appearance. Here you should already be guided common interior rooms.

The main materials used to make screens with your own hands:

• moisture resistant drywall;
• plastic.

Of course, you can use brick, but then you will need finishing, and this is an additional expense, both in time and finances.

Frame - basis

This element can be either wooden or metal. Used in in this case either beams or special profiles.

In order to do frame structure, markings should be made. To do this, take the top edge of the bathroom as a starting point. It is advisable to use a level for correct calculations. All components of the future foundation (profiles, fittings, beams) are prepared.

The next step is to assemble the structure. To do this, first the beam is attached to the supporting wall, then the remaining parts are attached from it. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws can be used for this.

The frame must be installed according to the future screen. That is, if you are supposed to have a viewing window, you must immediately make special jumpers for it so that in the end it will not be sealed. These jumpers are installed vertically. One side should have fastenings for the door, the other - for magnets.

For greater stability of the main structure, it is advisable to attach it additionally to the floor. This can be done either with special fasteners or with glue. Besides Special attention should be given to fixing structural elements. The stronger it is, the more durable the entire sliding structure will be.

Plastic screen

The use of plastic is very widespread, mainly due to its qualities. Especially when it comes to the bathroom or room with high humidity. Plastic does not “bloom”, does not become moldy or rot, this is one of the main advantages. In order to do sliding structure do it yourself from plastic, just pick it up special panels or clapboard.

Installing such a screen is simple. First, a special starting strip made of plastic is attached to the frame; it must be placed along the entire perimeter of the frame. Then vertical strips are inserted, which fit into the grooves of the starting strip until the screen is completely filled.

After all the work done, the door is installed in the viewing window. It can be found in any hardware store, as well as the necessary accessories for it.

DIY plasterboard screen

If you have difficulties installing the frame, it is better to watch video tutorials or photos of what the base should look like.

The use of plasterboard has one advantage: its further processing can be made of the same material as the walls. That is, after installation is completed, it involves the use of tiles, paint or plaster. The only condition: to install the structure in the bathroom with your own hands, the plasterboard must only be waterproof. If you use standard material, may have problems.

MDF panels

Installation of a sliding screen with MDF panels- enough easy work. Only the frame in this case will be made in the form of sheathing, with a step as for wall cladding. Using MDF panels you can create interesting solutions.

For a quality DIY installation, it is best to turn to photo or video sources.

Having completed everything renovation work in the bathroom, you will probably have a need to hide unsightly-looking communication pipes under the bathtub that spoil the entire interior. Great way and all the ugly corners is to make a screen under the bathtub from plastic panels with your own hands.

By making it more functional, for example, by installing various shelves in the created free space, you can easily hide from prying eyes all household and household items - brushes, powders, gels.

Types of screens for bathtubs made of plastic panels

Depending on the design, screens are made solid or sliding. Everyone is capable of solving some of their own operational problems.

Sliding screen for bathtub

The simplest and the usual solution there will be a continuous screen for the bathtub (pictured). The easiest way to do it yourself is to do it yourself. However, the disadvantage of this design is that it tightly closes the entire space under the bathroom, including the water supply and sewerage pipes. If there is a need for repair or repair, this screen will have to be disassembled.

Important! A solid screen requires the use of plastic plumbing pipes that do not rust. Before installing it, check the serviceability of all plumbing fixtures and the absence of fungus and mold on the wall surfaces.

A sliding screen is somewhat more practical than a solid one, but its appearance is less aesthetic. Making a sliding screen yourself is a little more difficult, but the results are worth it. In addition, niches for things can be attached in the space between the outer wall of the bathtub and the plastic panels. Shelves installed vertically on gas lifts are very convenient.

Solid screen for bathtub

Shape of bath screens

Before you start making a bath screen, you need to decide on its future shape.

So, there are three types of bath screens:

• blank wall - this type of screen completely covers the entire space under the bathroom, without providing any recesses for convenience or niches for things. When installing it, you should carefully double-check the serviceability of all plumbing fixtures and pipes, since this will be problematic later. Typically, these types of screens include a small door to check the condition of the plumbing.

Blank screen

• having a recess for the feet - this type of screen is more convenient to use. The notch will help you stand close to the bathtub without experiencing any discomfort when washing the bathtub itself or bathing children in it.

Bath screen with foot recess

• a screen with an inclined angle, as in the previous case, is also quite convenient to use and is created purely for the comfort of using the bathroom.

Slanted Angle Bath Screen

• a curved or angular screen is necessary for owners of round bathtubs. It is impossible to purchase it ready-made in a store. This screen is made only by hand.

Curved bath screen

Making a frame for a bathtub screen

So, you have chosen the shape and type of screen you need, the next step is making a frame for the subsequent installation of plastic panels. To implement this work you will need the following details: a starting strip (usually the same as the screen color range), profile, dowels, “liquid nails” glue and, in fact, the plastic panels themselves. Installation of the frame involves the use of the following tools: a stationery or construction knife, an electric screwdriver, a building level, a hammer drill, a square and a stapler.

Marking

The first thing to do is to mark the future supporting structure on the surface of the floor and walls. Using a building level, draw a line in a vertical direction at the place where the screen will adjoin the surface of the walls. Consider the top side of the bathtub as your starting point. From the resulting side lines, parallel to the location of your bathtub, draw another line equal to the thickness of the prepared plastic panels. For ease of installation of the structure, it is necessary to lay appropriate marks from the wall lines along the entire length of the floor surface along the length of the bathtub.

Frame installation

This is followed by the assembly of the front and side frame elements. To do this, measure and cut the beams or profile to the required length, join them along the marks and secure them. To make the frame more rigid and durable, make one or two additional transverse fastenings from the profile. In the case when the frame is made of wooden beams, screws and self-tapping screws can be used as fasteners. The profile uses specialized fasteners.

Attention! Attach the profile to the floor very carefully, without using much force, so as not to damage the tile.

When installing the frame, you should also provide space for a viewing window (if you plan to make one). For it it is necessary to make additional jumpers in designated place vertical shape: canopies will be attached to the right side, and furniture magnets to the left.

The frame of a sliding screen with vertical shelves requires additional fastening elements on which gas lifts are installed.

Curvilinear frame for a bathtub screen

To model the frame of a curved screen on the floor surface building level make markings that exactly follow the curves of the bathtub itself. According to the applied markings, the profile is laid - in places of bend along the side edge, cuts 10 cm long are made on it. Afterwards, a hole is punched in the profile and fastened with dowels and screws to the floor surface along the marked line. The upper profile is glued with glue.

Screen assembly from plastic panels

Technologically, assembling a screen from plastic is sufficient simple task and is as follows. First, a starting strip is attached with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the installed supporting frame itself. In places where the product will be adjacent to vertical and horizontal elements, make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. After this, strips are cut from plastic and inserted into the grooves of the prepared starting strip until the screen is completely filled. Plastic panels of the sliding screen are installed between the guides and with outside glue the handles. Corner joints are covered with plastic corners.

Sliding plastic panel

At the end of the installation, an inspection door should be installed on the fixed jumpers (usually on the side of the drain siphon). Such plastic doors can be bought at any hardware store or made independently from the remaining panels. For additional protection to prevent moisture from getting inside the screen, the gaps between the floor surface and the frame fasteners are filled with a special neutral-colored sealant.

Installing panels on a curved screen is somewhat different, because it is also necessary to take into account the bending angle.

Attention! Too wide plastic panels are not suitable for making a curved screen, since it is impossible to bend them at home. Panels up to 250 mm wide are ideal.

Special containers with many different storage shelves will help to properly organize the space under the bathroom, for example, household chemicals and many small things for the bathroom. Store in them household supplies much more convenient and pleasant. Such containers are even produced on wheels, which makes them easier to move under the bathroom.

You can do it under the bathtub convenient shelves for storing various household items

A sliding bath screen is often equipped with stationary shelves on which brushes, sponges, all household chemicals and bath accessories are also stored.

How to make a plastic screen for a bathtub with your own hands: video

Plastic screen under the bath: photo

If you installed a bathtub, then you've probably already thought about how to hide all the communications underneath it. One of possible options- put up a screen. As a rule, this design is intended only to improve the aesthetics of the bathroom. Modern models Bathtubs are often supplied with screens. But, if you purchased a bathtub without such equipment, do not despair. You can always make the screen yourself.

Not everyone likes to close the bathtub various skins. A simple way to solve the problem is to purchase a bathtub with beautiful legs and treated, presentable sides. But it also happens that it is not possible to hide sewer and water supply structures.

Acrylic bathtubs usually come with ready-made screens that cover the space underneath to a minimum. Design features Such bathtubs differ from their cast iron/steel counterparts in that they do not form large voids underneath.

The space under the bathtub can be used more rationally by building a screen with shelves or sliding doors underneath it. So, you can store detergents under the bathroom, for example.

Among other things, such coverings help improve sanitary conditions in the bathroom. Thanks to them, moisture does not accumulate on the floor areas under the bathroom, which provokes the growth of bacteria and fungi.

Modern design developments provide the opportunity to decorate the bathtub in an original and beautiful way. With their help you can create imitations, for example, underwater world or an aquarium.

In humid bathroom environments, it is important to use moisture-resistant materials. There are plenty of them on the market today. Among this many we can highlight:

• brick;
• MDF/OSB;
• plastic;
• installation ready-made kit, consisting of a frame and sliding doors.

All materials, except plastic and the finished screen kit, must be finished after installation, for example, with plaster, tiles, wallpaper, etc.

Basic requirements for the material:

1. There must be an inspection opening to the main sewer and water supply units, closed with a door/plug.
2. The floor under the bathtub should be hermetically sealed from the rest of the bathroom. This is the only way to avoid the formation of dampness, and as a result, fungi and mold under the bathtub.
3. The bathtub should not rest on the screen because it is a non-load-bearing structure.
4. To prevent the screen from interfering with your feet, you need to arrange a recess in it, made at an angle.

If you have enough free space under the bathroom, make a screen with a drawer or small cabinet in which you can store detergents and household chemicals.

Screens are:

• deaf;
• with a niche for feet;
• with sliding doors;
• with an inspection door for troubleshooting plumbing problems.

When choosing a screen, the design features of the room, the personal preferences of the owner of the house/apartment, and financial capabilities are taken into account.

Drywall does not load the floor, unlike heavy brickwork. It is easy to process. A plasterboard structure can last from 20 to 25 years. If necessary, a plasterboard screen can be repaired by repairing the damage with putty or by replacing an entire fragment.

For these purposes, you need to use moisture-resistant drywall. Due to moderate vapor permeability, a plasterboard screen maintains an optimal level of humidity.

Work with gypsum board does not require any special equipment. Everything you need is usually included home kit tools.

In the process of design calculations, the availability of access to plumbing units should be taken into account. The inspection opening can be closed plastic sash. To make using the bathtub more comfortable, the lower part of the screen needs to be moved under the bathtub by 10–12 cm. The screen is not load-bearing structure, as mentioned above, so it should not support the weight of the bathtub. The only thing is that if the design includes shelves or cabinets, then the frame must support their weight along with the filling.

First you need to install load-bearing frame. The most affordable option is a system assembled from mounting beam, pre-treated with a preservative. Installing a metal profile will cost you more, however, given its high performance properties, the costs justify the investment.

No matter how you decide to install the gypsum screen, dowel fasteners will be used as fastening. The gypsum board is fixed with metal screws.

On the wall adjacent to the side of the bathtub, apply markings along which the side profile will be installed. If you use tiles as cladding, then make an additional indentation for this. It should be equal to the total thickness of the tile and panel. Mark the length of the bottom of the screen on the floor. To ensure accurate markings, use a plumb line or a building level.

Recesses for the feet are usually formed in the center of the bath at the bottom of the screen. The middle of the floor profile needs to be made in a U-shaped configuration. To do this you need to install vertical racks with an appropriate slope.

Before installing drywall, install the profile in accordance with the markings. First of all, secure the UD profile. At the same time, place its lower part on moisture resistant sealant. Attach the vertical CD profile to the supporting profile at equal intervals of 60 cm. Where the inspection door will be installed, install additional racks.

To cut moisture resistant plasterboard use hand saw with fine teeth. This way, you will get a clean cut. When making a screen, it is important to ensure a distance from the side of the bath equal to 10 mm in depth. This will prevent the screen from coming into contact with water.

If the thickness of the frame walls is 0.55 mm, then to secure the drywall you need to use standard metal screws. If the thickness of the profile walls is 0.8 mm, then it is better to use fasteners with a drill tip.

Drywall can be tiled, decorative plaster, film decor or moisture-resistant wallpaper.

Before making the frame, the profile needs to be given a semicircular shape. To do this, you need to make cuts on the metal profile and bend it. Make two such arcs. Secure them with self-tapping screws. Then install vertical slats, which will give the frame rigidity.

The frame should be installed at a certain recess from the side of the bath: thickness of gypsum board + thickness of tiles + thickness of glue.

In order for the drywall to acquire the desired shape, for example, to become arched, it must be slightly moistened and gradually bent. The tiles must be laid with elastic adhesive, and the distance between the slabs must be leveled with crosses during the laying process.

The principle of manufacturing the frame is indistinguishable from its counterpart, intended for installing gypsum board. The only difference is the need to install additional ventilation slots located on the opposite side of the inspection door. This should be a small slot covered with a plastic grill. Another option is to make neat round holes, arranged in random order.

The space under the bathtub can be covered with a brick wall lined with tiles. Every person who knows how to handle household tools can cope with masonry. Laying should be done in ¼ or ½ bricks per cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3.

Before laying, you need to mark the position of the screen taking into account the tiling. Ultimately, the side of the bathtub should be flush with the screen. Lower the plumb line along the edge of the bathtub, and then mark a line from which the thickness of the tiles and masonry mortar inside the bath. In accordance with this guideline, you need to do brickwork. In addition, the vertical lines of the screen structure should be marked on opposite walls of the bathroom.

If the bricks will not fit entirely at the top of the screen, they will need to be adjusted in height and thickness.

If you want to make a structure with a niche for feet in the masonry of the bottom row (or several rows), then you will have to leave an opening in the masonry, covered with steel strips up to 6 mm thick. This will ensure the retention of the bricks of the top row.

The niche can be made with an inclined wall. However, it is technically more difficult to carry out such masonry. To do this, mark the bottom contour of the niche on the floor. Mark the height and depth of the niche on paper. By connecting the dots you will have a pattern. It will be necessary to cut off the brick for the side walls. You can cut the brick with a grinder or a diamond wheel. The laying of an inclined wall is carried out by tying the bricks to the side walls and to each other.

The top row of sloping wall bricks must be brought to the level of the horizontal row, and then cut off with a grinder. You should end up with a horizontal line. The further masonry process is similar to the previous method.

After completing the masonry, an inspection door should be installed. To simplify the task, you can purchase one made of plastic at a hardware store. Another option is to make it yourself from a galvanized/aluminum profile, which can then be covered with plastic panels or other finishing materials.

To make the frame you will need to install timber or metallic profile, and then install the starting profile, onto which the plastic lining will be attached.

To make the structure more rigid, you need to install profiles in the middle of the screen. This should be taken into account, because the lining can deform and lose its shape from the slightest mechanical loads.

The lower profile must be screwed to the floor and treated with sealant. The plastic lining must be cut into strips equal to the height of the screen. They need to be brought in with their edges starting profile. So, gradually the entire screen will be filled with clapboard. You need to cut a rectangle at the location where the inspection door is installed. Then you can install the door, which can be purchased at the same store as the lining.

If you need additional shelves, you can install them under the bathtub. If you want to close them from prying eyes, install a sliding screen. It can be made so that the shelves open vertically.

Vertical structures are fixed on gas lifts or other fasteners used in furniture production.

If you have to choose one of the models of standard sliding screens and install it under the bathtub, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of the features of the products of this plan. The standard length of screens is 1.5 and 1.7 m. Universal designs can be reduced in length. They come in heights of 50.6 cm, 55 and 56 cm. The structures are equipped with adjustable legs.

A simple version of a sliding screen is finished design, which consists of an aluminum/plastic frame with two panels. More complex models are additionally equipped with drawers and shelves for storage detergents and household chemicals. The panels are made of glass or plexiglass.

If you need to install a screen under the bathtub in small room, then to visualize the increase in space, you can install a mirror structure.

Video

Photo

The screen serves as a screen for communications connected to the bathroom. The legs of a bathtub installed on linings, drains, sewer outlets, and pipes are perfectly hidden under it. But in addition to functions related to the aesthetics of space, the screen can also perform other useful work. For example, serve as a support for the stability of the bath or be a cabinet for small items.

Acrylic bathtubs and other representatives of the latest generation of plumbing fixtures are often immediately equipped with a screen, ideal for hiding dark corners and communications. But what to do if the bathtub is old, and you don’t want to see its shabby sides every day? You can purchase a ready-made screen, and if you don’t want to spend money on a store-bought version or you need the screen under the bathtub to 100 percent meet your requirements, you can make a screen under the bathtub yourself. Here are several ways to create a screen.

The screen providing access under the bathroom is made with sliding doors or with a built-in cabinet for household chemicals; may have vertically or horizontally opening cavities. It is advisable to equip vertical opening structures according to the principle of blinds or equip them with gas lifts and other fasteners that are well known to furniture makers.

Requirements for a bath screen

Materials for the bath screen

The materials that you will use in the bathroom should not be afraid of water, moisture, or temperature changes. It is also important that they are not susceptible to rapid destruction from mold or mildew.

You can make the base of the screen from almost any building material, and then decorate the outside to your liking. Plastic panels or tiles are used for cladding.

Homemade screen options:

The fastest way to do this is to cover the frame under the bathtub with MDF panels. Strips of plastic or MDF are biologically neutral and practical. These materials are easy to cut and fasten together.

After construction, the brick base will need to be sheathed and plastered or tiles glued to it. And before installation wooden frame wood must be coated special impregnation to protect against dampness.

Plastic screen. MDF sheathing

Screen made of MDF or plastic lining will be the most simple option, which will allow you to immediately obtain a finishing surface. The MDF screen is easy to disassemble, and the plastic casing is the most economical - if any part is damaged, it can be replaced.

Plastic for shielding the space is attached to a frame, for the formation of which it is used wooden beam 40 by 40mm or metal profile. A moisture-resistant primer is required for wood.

1. MDF and plastic panels are cut in advance. To work with plastic, it is convenient to use a cutter or a construction knife. The surface of the screen is made up of panels, and where there should be a technological hole, a slot is made into which a grille or door is inserted.

Ready plastic screen It is also necessary to cut ventilation slots (on the side where there is no “window”). The recommended slot width is 3 by 5 cm. Ventilation hole covered with a plastic grill.

Important! When installing a blind screen, make sure that all communications to which the screen will block access are in good condition.

Screen based on plasterboard

The principle of constructing a plasterboard screen is exactly the same as when working with plastic. First, markings are applied to the bathroom floor. Next, a frame is built from a metal profile or wood. But there is a significant difference: when installing a frame under drywall, you need to take into account that finishing also has a certain thickness. In particular, if it is planned to finish the screen with tiles, the frame must be “recessed” relative to the surface exactly at the distance that the finishing layer will take. If the facing material does not affect the wall thickness, then the projection of the frame onto the floor is plumb.

Second important point: for work in the bathroom you only need special drywall, protected from moisture. In places where it is most likely to come into contact with water, it should be additionally primed. Drywall sheets are cut in accordance with the height of the screen, minus 2 cm.

The sheets must be secured by moving a centimeter away from the edge of the bathtub and from the floor to prevent swelling of the gypsum sheet. Direct contact with moisture or a wet surface is contraindicated even with special drywall (remember, it is green).

To fasten the sheets, use black self-tapping screws, screwing them in every 15 cm along the upper and lower profile. Pay attention to the dimensions of the screws and the thickness of the profile: damage to the bathtub is not the best option completion of work.

After completing the fastening, the base of the screen must be primed entirely and sheathed with any material. This can be ceramic tiles or finishing with moisture-resistant wallpaper, film covering, decorative plaster. The voids near the floor and at the top edge of the bathtub are filled polyurethane foam.

To create a screen on a brick base, you need to build a half-brick thick wall under the bathroom. When making initial markings, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the brick + 2 cm of glue + the thickness of the tiles, deepening the marks accordingly.

The masonry is carried out with an offset of each next brick half (by the way, you can also read about a do-it-yourself brick bath on our website). This will prevent the wall from collapsing. You need to leave a window to access communications. The door is attached to the technological opening using canopies. The wall being built cannot be a support for the bathroom, since the top row of bricks should be 2-3 cm below the edge of the bathroom bowl. Polyurethane foam is poured into the gap, which seals the joint between the bowl and the wall.

To cover a brick base, tiles or plaster are suitable.

The screen under the bathtub can be made as drapery or covering made of fabric and other similar materials. The main thing is to choose quick-drying polyester fiber fabrics.

1. Serve well in damp room polyester materials.
2. Fabrics with a membrane structure prevent the formation of fungus, allowing the space under the bath to be ventilated.
3. Waterproof nylon materials are ideal for covering the screen.
4. A good solution is to cover the frame with artificial leather.
5. It is permissible to install panels with any finishing solutions that can withstand dampness.

For triangular or corner bath It is most convenient to use plastic or plasterboard shielding. Complex shapes ideally accept the front mosaic finish, beautifully emphasizing the contour of the bowl. Installation of curved screens also begins with the construction of the frame and then the trim is adjusted in place, in accordance with the smooth lines and curves of the bathtub.

Installation of a finished screen or sliding doors

The finished screen is an acrylic shield or plastic construction with two canvases that slide in different sides. It is best to use the profile that comes with the screen for installation. But homemade foundation frames are also acceptable. Also, don’t forget to look at the screen installation instructions to know what methods you can use to secure it (liquid nails or self-tapping screws).

Video - DIY bath screen

Video - How to hide pipes under the bathtub

Video - Screen under the bath

In order to hide all communications, pipes and drains that are located under the bathroom, a special screen is installed. It mainly carries an aesthetic load so that the appearance of the lower part of the bathtub does not spoil the design of the bathroom. Some modern baths already supplied with screens that fit perfectly appearance and functionality, but not all. In order not to spend money on buying a ready-made and not very cheap screen, you can think about how to make a screen for a bathtub with your own hands. This not only allows you to significantly save money, but also install a screen that will fully suit the tastes and preferences of the owners; in addition, you can equip the screen with several useful functions.

What to make a bath screen from?

There is a huge amount building materials, which can be used in a damp bathroom environment. So we can distinguish the following options, based mainly on the material that will form the base of the screen:

1. Laying a brick screen;
2. Sheathing with moisture-resistant plasterboard followed by finishing with any suitable material(tiles, plaster, wallpaper, etc.)
3. Sheathing with moisture-resistant MDF, OSB with subsequent finishing;
4. Plastic sheathing.
5. Purchasing a ready-made screen or a set of sliding doors.

In addition to the store-bought solution, only plastic sheathing actually allows you to form a screen without the need for further finishing. This material is quite acceptable and practical, not affected by moisture and biologically neutral. Easy to clean and durable enough even if one or more strips are damaged plastic sheathing it is easy to replace. Still, for a durable design or if plastic simply does not fit into the interior of the bathtub, you should choose one of the remaining three options.

In any case, the screen for the bathtub, no matter what it is assembled from, must meet several requirements:

• To access the main sewerage units and laid communications, there must be a technological opening that can be closed with a door or plug;
• It is advisable to seal the space near the floor to separate the floor under the bathtub from the rest of the bathroom;
• The screen is not a supporting structure and the bath should not rest on it.

For convenience, a small recess is formed in the screen, most often with a slope so that it does not interfere with the legs. Some craftsmen, if there is free space under the bathtub or on the side of it, install an additional cabinet or drawer as part of the screen for household chemicals or detergents.

Laying a brick screen

In this version everything is simple. Along the border of the bathtub or from wall to wall near which the bathtub stands, a brick wall half a brick thick is erected. It is imperative, as when constructing a regular wall, that the brick is altered, that is, each next row is shifted by half a brick. A window is formed in a place convenient for access to the bathtub drain. In order to cover it, it is enough to buy or make a door and attach it to the awnings.

Even though the brick wall is quite strong, you still shouldn’t rest the bathtub on it, so between last row brick and the edge of the bathtub there should be a gap of about 1-2 cm, which is blown with foam. After this, you can sheathe the brickwork ceramic tiles or any other suitable material that will match the design of the room.

If you liked this option, but you don’t know how to lay brick, read about the basics of working with it.

Sheathing with plasterboard

The most flexible method in terms of forming the shape of the screen. Everything depends only on the desire of the owner. Installing a screen under a bathtub begins with forming a frame. For this you can use either a metal profile or a 40x40 mm wooden beam. The tree must also be protected from moisture, otherwise rot and fungus will inevitably appear.

When installing the frame, it is taken into account that the facing material will also be sheathed on top of the drywall. So along the wall to which the side of the bathtub adjoins, a line for installing the edge of the profile is marked so that it is recessed from the edge of the bathtub by the thickness of the subsequent cladding. For example, if you plan to cover the screen with tiles, then an indentation of 12.6 mm + 5 mm + 4-6 mm (tile thickness) = 21.6-23.6 mm is made. The line must be continued along the floor along the entire length over which the screen will extend. In this case, a plumb line is used to adjust relative to the edge of the bath.

A UD profile is fixed along the perimeter of the resulting line. The profile that is attached to the floor should additionally be glued with sealant to prevent water from getting under and from under the bathtub. Next, the CD profile is installed vertically and secured to the supporting profile. The distance between the profiles is maintained at 600 mm, and racks are additionally installed in the place where the technological hole or recess for installation will be located drawer or a locker.

A ledge for feet can be formed in the center of the bathtub. To do this, the profile on the floor is not installed in a straight line, but in the shape of the letter U with a recess for the bathtub of about 10-15 cm. The racks in the niche will be installed at an angle.

Example of a tiled plasterboard screen with a lip

Moisture-resistant green plasterboard is used for cladding. It is cut to the appropriate length, equal to the height of the screen minus 2 cm. Fastening is done with hardened black screws every 15 cm around the perimeter of the sheet and in the center along the profile. In this case, it is important to choose the correct length of screws so as not to inadvertently screw the upper screws into acrylic bathtub. The sheets are attached with 1 cm indentations from the floor and the edge of the bathtub. This is necessary to prevent swelling of the drywall. After all, even though it is moisture resistant, it will still begin to deteriorate from direct contact with water.

When the sheathing is completed, the drywall is primed and sheathed with any suitable material, for example, ceramic tiles, decorative plaster, moisture-resistant wet wallpaper, film materials, etc.

Video: example of installing a permanent screen under a plasterboard bathtub

Sheathing: MDF, OSB

The entire process is virtually identical to drywall sheathing. The only difference is that additional ventilation slots should be made in the screen on the opposite side of the technological hole. To do this, it is enough to make a slot only 2-3 cm wide and 5-10 cm long, which can be covered with a neat plastic grill. MDF sheets must be primed on both sides before being fixed to the frame.

Screen made of plastic lining

The simplest option would be to line the bathtub with plastic lining. This option immediately produces a beautiful finished surface and does not require additional processing or plating. If necessary, the screen can be easily disassembled to gain full access to the space under the bath.

In addition to the lining itself, you will also need a starting profile, which is strengthened along the perimeter of the future screen. From the top, under the edge of the bathtub, a beam or metal profile is first secured to the walls, and then a plastic starting profile. For the reliability and strength of the entire structure, it is also advisable to secure the profiles in the middle of the screen. This is especially important when using cheap options for plastic lining, which can become deformed and lose shape even under small mechanical loads. The lower profile, as in the previously described options, should preferably be glued to the floor using sealant.

Strips of plastic are cut using a regular construction knife and the edges are inserted into the starting profile. This way the entire surface of the screen is covered. At the site where the technological hole is formed, a rectangle is cut and a special plastic door is inserted, which are sold in the same places as the lining itself.

Since there is an unimaginable variety of plastic lining on sale, color design, pattern and even texture, then choose suitable option won't be difficult.

Sliding version of the plastic screen for the bathroom

As for the sliding screen for the bathroom, its creation requires either imagination or a ready-made installation kit from any hardware store. If you don’t have the second one, we recommend looking for ways to implement craftsmen. One option is in the video below.