One of the most popular indoor plants, begonias, are native to the tropics and subtropics of South America. However, as decorative flower it began to be grown only in the 18th century. All modern varieties and hybrids of this crop were developed from the first five varieties brought to Europe by English botanists. The plant was named begonia by scientist Charles Plumier in honor of the French governor of the colony of Haiti, Michel Begon.

Varieties

At the moment, gardeners and indoor plant lovers breed only three main types of begonia: herbaceous, shrub and semi-shrub. Tuberous flowers are commonly grown in lawns and flower beds. Begonia rhizomatous, shrub and semi-shrub is more often used as decoration in city apartments. Some forms of this ornamental plant are valued for their beautiful flowers, others for their showy leaves.

Caring for begonias of all varieties is almost the same, with the exception of some nuances. In this article we will talk in detail about how indoor, that is, rhizomatous leaf and shrub forms of begonias are grown.

Pot and soil

Begonia is usually grown at home in rather small containers. The fact is that its roots do not tolerate being surrounded by large amounts of wet soil very well. They should completely occupy the space of the pot. In order for the plant to feel comfortable, it needs to be transplanted into a new container every year. bigger size(about 2 cm).

The soil for begonias should be nutritious leaf soil. You can mix it with sand and peat in a ratio of 1:1:3. Sometimes in pots for this ornamental plant pour and purchased soil. In this case, it is better to buy peat.

Where to place begonias

Most begonias are shade-loving plants. That is, they cannot be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise their leaves will be burned. Most often, begonia is grown at home on window sills located on the north or east side. It is especially important to comply with this condition for rhizomatous varieties with beautiful leaves. Shrub and semi-shrub begonias also love partial shade. However, direct lighting usually does not cause them too much harm. These varieties adapt to the sun very quickly.

An exception to this rule is the garden tuberous begonia. It is usually planted on lawns laid out in sunny areas. And she feels very good about it.

Reproduction methods

Seeds and petioles are what you can use to propagate these flowers. Begonia, unfortunately, loses its decorative value after just a few years of cultivation. Therefore, old plants have to be replaced with new ones. And therefore, those who want to see this crop as a decoration for their apartment should definitely become familiar with the technology of its cultivation.

Begonia: propagation by seeds

This method, being quite complex, is used very rarely for breeding begonias. However, if you wish, you can try to propagate this ornamental plant this way. IN in this case The cultivation procedure usually begins in February. This begonia propagates by seeds as follows:

1. A 2-3 cm layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of a large box. It is best to take pebbles that are not too large.
2. Leaf soil is sifted through a fine sieve and poured over the drainage in a layer of 2-3 cm.
3. A layer of snow is laid on top of the ground.
4. Begonia seeds are sown on it. They are very small, and therefore the procedure must be carried out slowly, trying to distribute the planting material over the surface of the snow as evenly as possible.

Begonia does not tolerate dry air very well. Therefore, the box should be tightened until the seeds germinate plastic film. After the plants hatch, this covering must be removed and the box placed in a lighted, slightly shaded place.

For the first time, plants are picked immediately after the first true leaf appears on them. At the same time, they are planted in another box. First, leaf soil is poured into it with a small addition of peat and sand. Planting is done in such a way that there is a distance of approximately two centimeters between the rows and between individual plants.

As soon as the bushes become crowded in the box, carry out a second pick. This time, a mixture consisting of leaf soil, humus, peat and sand in a proportion of 4x1x1x1 is poured into the box. Planting is carried out according to a 3x5 pattern.

Begonia from seeds will develop well only at temperatures not lower than 20 degrees. Also, the soil in the boxes should be disinfected from time to time by watering with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.6%).

Propagation by cuttings

Planting begonias can also be done using this technique. For propagation in this case, either young or slightly lignified cuttings are taken, which should have at least 2-4 buds. Under the lowest node, an oblique cut is made very sharp knife. Large leaves are removed from the cuttings. It's better to leave the small ones. Cuttings should be planted in pots one at a time. You can also take a large box. However, in this case, planting material should be placed only along its perimeter (at the edges). The fact is that cuttings are well accepted only if there is free air circulation.

Leaves soil mixed with peat and sand is poured into pots or boxes. A few days before planting, the soil needs to be thoroughly wetted. Do not water the soil before and after planting. The cuttings are carefully stuck into the ground and covered on top with a film attached to sticks of suitable length.

For two weeks, the plants must be sprayed and ventilated daily, removing the covering for a while. After this period, the seedlings begin to adapt to room temperature. To do this, the film is removed every day for 2-3 hours. They do this for a week. Then the film is removed completely.

How to propagate by leaves

This method is also often used by indoor plant lovers. Propagation by leaves is carried out as follows:

• a large one is removed from the mother plant healthy leaf and cut into squares 2 cm long;
• the resulting planting material is planted vertically in a moistened mixture of leaf soil, sand and peat or simply laid out on it;
• The box is covered with film.

Begonia, propagation by leaves of which is not difficult, germinates in this case in about 2-3 weeks. From this moment on, the box needs to begin to be ventilated. To do this, the film is first removed for 30 minutes a day. Then the ventilation time is gradually increased. You should try to adapt the plant completely to room temperature within a week.

How to water correctly

Of course, a lover of indoor plants should also know how to properly water these wonderful flowers. Begonia, like any other tropical plant, does not tolerate dry air at all. Therefore, it should be sprayed daily with a spray bottle. But this must be done in such a way that water does not fall on the leaves. Spraying is carried out around the plant, humidifying the air. You can also place the begonia pot in a larger container. In this case, water is poured into the bottom of the latter and stones are placed. The pot with the plant should be installed so that its bottom does not touch the water.

Actually, begonias are watered very rarely. This plant does not like too damp soil. With increased soil moisture, its roots begin to rot and leaves turn yellow. Before watering, the water should be left for a day at room temperature. Flowering begonia, as well as those forms that are valued for the beauty of their leaves, are watered every other day or several in spring and summer. In winter, the number of waterings is reduced to once a week.

Immersion method

Sometimes this technique is used to moisten the soil in a pot. It's completely easy to implement. To do this, you need to take a container larger in volume than a flower pot. Peat-softened water is poured into it (1 kg per 10 liters). Next, lower the pot into the container for 20 minutes. As a result, water will penetrate into it through the drainage holes and moisten the soil. Then the potted begonia is placed on a tray. As soon as the water drains from drainage holes, it is drained.

Growing begonia: how to fertilize

To feed plants, they usually use a special mixture for begonias, which can be purchased at a specialized store. If you cannot find it, you can use any complex fertilizer for indoor flowers. In spring and summer, fertilizing is usually done once a month. At the end of autumn and winter, plants are not fertilized. At this time, the flowers are at rest and fertilizing can even harm them. The only exception is the ever-flowering begonia. This variety should be fertilized all year round.

Diseases

Resistance to various kinds diseases - this is also what characterizes these spectacular, unpretentious flowers. Begonia, however, sometimes still causes problems in this regard for lovers of indoor plants. Most often it is affected by powdery mildew. In this case, a white or gray plaque. The fungus begins to suck all the juices out of the plant. As a result, the leaves curl up and gradually die off.

Plants are usually relieved of powdery mildew using special purchased funds- fungicides. They also treat other begonia diseases caused by fungi. Very popular and effective, for example, are drugs such as “Topaz”, “Zlato”, “Fundazim”, etc. Before treatment, the diseased plant must be isolated from others, as it spreads powdery mildew very fast. You also need to remove all plaque. Severely affected shoots and leaves are removed and burned. The actual spraying is carried out according to the instructions for the selected product.

Pests

Begonias are also sometimes affected by spider mites or aphids. In the first case, the plant can be treated with infusion of chamomile or tobacco with soap. Aphids are destroyed with preparations containing pyrethrum. You can also treat the plants with a weak infusion of garlic. To prepare it, 2-3 mashed garlic cloves are mixed with 2 tsp. oil and one teaspoon liquid soap. Next, fill in everything warm water in an amount of 0.5 liters.

Most popular varieties

And finally, let's figure out what popular varieties of begonias exist at the moment and which one is best to choose.

Most often, indoor plant lovers grow the following varieties:

1. Begonia ever-blooming. This is one of the most beautiful forms, the main feature of which is a thick bare stem, reaching a height of up to 40 centimeters. Depending on the variety, the leaves of this begonia can be emerald or bright green, and the flowers can be white, pink, red or salmon. The peculiarities of this variety, among other things, include the fact that it blooms almost all year round.
2. Begonia coral. The branches of this form hang down very beautifully. Its leaves are covered with spectacular white spots. Coral begonia blooms in spring. The flowers of this variety can have different shades of red - from hot pink to dark burgundy.
3. Royal begonia. This variety has a creeping stem and very beautiful variegated leaves.

Coral, evergreen and royal begonias are the most popular varieties. However, sometimes lovers of indoor plants also breed more exotic forms of begonias. For example, tuberous varieties are grown mainly in gardens and yards. However, even in a pot they can look very good. Household tuberous begonia, unlike rhizomatous varieties, is valued not for beautiful leaves. It has earned popularity primarily for its spectacular double flowers.

As you can see, there are many varieties of begonia. And all of them, without exception, are distinguished by high decorative qualities. Considering that caring for any form of this wonderful indoor flower and even propagating them is not difficult, using begonia to decorate your apartment is certainly worth it.

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Begonia, home care - transplantation, propagation, resuscitation

The most unpretentious begonias are root begonias. They do not need to have a dormant period like tuberous ones. However, the roots require care all year round. In winter they are fed, but less often than in summer; pruned in spring. Regardless of the type, all begonias grow well and delight with their decorative properties in high air humidity in combination with unflooded soil. In this connection, there are nuances of watering: as the soil dries, only in the pan, you cannot spray the leaves. How to care for a flower correctly in order to grow it as beautiful as in the photo in floriculture magazines?

Origin of begonia and distinctive features

There are more than 1 thousand species of begonias in nature. Largest number varieties are found in South America, in second place is Asia (India, the Himalayas, Sri Lanka), and in third place is the western part of Africa. There is an assumption that Africa is the birthplace of begonias, from here they spread to Asia and America. In the wild, plants are found in humid subtropics and mountains.

The family was first described by the French botanist Charles Plumier. In 1683, under the leadership of the intendant of the French colonies, Michel Begon, he visited the islands of the Caribbean with an expedition. There the scientist discovered plants that were unknown at that time, gave them a description and named them after the organizer of the trip.

The begonias known today differ greatly from each other in size, shape, coloring of leaves and flowers. Some are perennial, others are annual. There are herbaceous and shrubby begonias, with creeping or thickened rhizomes. But there is also something in common that unites these plants into one family.

Characteristics of begonias:

• All types of begonias have an asymmetrical, oblique leaf;
• flowers are monoecious;
• perianths - brightly colored, unequal;
• the fruit with seeds looks like a capsule;
• all begonias grow in approximately the same natural conditions: diffused sunlight, high humidity, temperature +13… +22 ⁰C.

Video: the wealth of types and colors of a flower

Begonias - flowers for apartments, gardens and offices

How ornamental culture, begonia has been developing since 1856, when breeders began to create its hybrids. Tuberous, large-flowering varieties appeared, the most famous ones being bred in Belgium. Keeping these plants at home is not too difficult, otherwise they would not be so popular. Begonias are grown in open ground and on window sills; they are used for landscaping residential premises and offices, in compositions and separately. Flowers are planted in baskets and flowerpots to decorate walls, furniture, and are also used as ground cover plants. Ever-flowering varieties are suitable for any flower beds, even carpet ones. Tuberous varieties are grown on balconies, verandas, and enclosed courtyards.

Care at home has its own nuances, for example, tuberous plants require a period of rest. All begonias love moist air, but do not tolerate damp soil. However, any novice gardener can grow this plant. After all, if something went wrong and the begonia began to dry out, you can take a cutting or a leaf and start growing the begonia again, taking into account past mistakes. The culture is able to reproduce even with a piece of leaf, which very quickly turns back into a lush and beautiful indoor plant.

Varieties of root begonias

Everblooming

The main difference between the species is its constant flowering. You can plant such a plant in the garden in the summer, take it indoors for the winter, and it will bloom everywhere all year round. These are perennial herbaceous begonias. External signs, in addition to constant flowering, are rounded leaves and small height: tall - up to 36 cm, short - from 8 cm. Many varieties have been bred with green or burgundy leaves, white, yellow, pink or coral flowers, which, in turn, They can be terry (in the form of roses) or simple.

Examples of plants in the photo

Coral

Indoor herbaceous begonias bloom in early spring and fully justify their name. The flowers are painted in different shades of red, and the branched flower stalks hanging down under the weight of the buds are very similar to corals. The leaves also look romantic: elongated, matte, speckled, with jagged edges reminiscent of angel wings. Begonias look most impressive in pots on stands. They are very unpretentious in care. Bush height - up to 90 cm.

Deciduous begonias

The species is famous for the decorativeness of its leaves, and the flowers of deciduous begonias are small and inconspicuous. Often these are non-flowering perennials. They differ from other species in their capriciousness. So, leaf begonias cannot be kept in the open air, that is, these begonias love greenhouse conditions, high humidity, and diffused light. At the dacha or at open balcony they will die. The main feature of the species is large (15–20 cm) and beautiful leaves. They can be decorated with colored pearl spots, exquisite patterns, contrasting colors, silver glitter or mother-of-pearl shimmer. Stems are pubescent back side the leaf usually has a red tint.

Photo gallery: Deciduous begonias

Varieties of tuberous begonias

These begonias are grown in shady corners of the garden or on balconies. Their flowers are very beautiful, depending on the variety they look like roses, carnations, daffodils, peonies, and camellias. Stems are fleshy, translucent; leaves are asymmetrical, heart-shaped. Hidden underground is a rhizome that has grown into a tuber. In open ground, begonias bloom from June to September, and indoors from spring to December, then a dormant period begins. The above-ground part dries out, and the tuber is stored until the next season.

Photo gallery: Tuberous begonias

Elatior or hybrid begonias

Hybrid begonias were bred in England by crossing two species: root Socotrans (from the island of Socotra in the Indian Ocean) and tuberous. The result was very beautiful plant, similar to tuberous, but with a regular root. Blooms in winter. Due to the compactness of the bush and the abundance of flowers, closely arranged in several tiers, this begonia is called a “bouquet in a pot.” With good care, Elatior blooms not only in winter, but almost continuously, for several months in a row. The most famous varieties: Elatior Borias, pleasing with pink double flowers with a white edge, and Elatior Baladin with flowers different shades pink: from white to red.

Photo gallery: Begonia Elatior

Ampelous begonias

Another type of luxurious indoor plants, the popularity of which has been growing in recent years. This group includes root, tuberous, and hybrids. They are united by one feature - hanging shoots strewn with flowers. different forms and colors: white, yellow, red, orange, pink. The bright asymmetrical foliage also looks impressive. Ampelous varieties are planted in balcony boxes, flowerpots, tall flowerpots.

Photo gallery: Ampelous begonias

Conditions for keeping begonias depending on the season - table

Rooted begonias in such conditions will bloom all year round or for many months (depending on the variety). For tuberous begonias, this table is only partially suitable. In autumn they are cut and stored for the winter in a dark and cool place (+12 ⁰C). Water once a month, only slightly moistening a strip of soil along the edge of the pot. At the end of February they put it out in the window, begin to water and feed it, like all other flowering varieties.

Video: Tuberous begonias: dormant period and cultivation

Planting begonias

In Europe and the USA, it is customary to buy flowering begonia, and after it has finished blooming, throw it away. But this option is not suitable for Russians; we like to replant, feed, change pots. Begonias are replanted in the spring, and this is the season when you need to buy them. Without transplanting into nutrient soil, purchased begonia will soon die. Indeed, in the store-bought version, peat serves as the soil, and the plant lives off of nutrient solutions. Therefore, immediately after purchase, the begonia needs to be replanted.

In the same store, along with the flower, you need to purchase:

• drainage (expanded clay stones);
• soil (for begonias, violets or universal for flowering peat-based crops);
• perlite, or vermiculite, or sphagnum moss (for additional looseness of the soil, but not necessary);
• a pot 3–4 cm wider and deeper than the one in which the begonia is sold; Required: tray and drainage holes.

Excess water in the pot causes the roots of begonias to rot and the flower to die. Therefore, the soil needs to be loose, breathable, and water should not stagnate in it. In addition, begonias love acidic and fertile soil. It is not recommended to take soil from the house, country house or forest. Such soil is almost always infested with diseases and insects, and its acidity is unknown.

Photo gallery: What is needed to transplant begonias

Drainage is necessary for roots to breathe
Perlite serves as an additional leavening agent. Vermiculite is used instead of perlite or sphagnum to loosen the soil.
Sphagnum moss, along with perlite and vermiculite, additionally loosens the soil Ready soil for begonias. If you don’t have it, a soil mixture for violets will do.
Universal primer for flower crops The new pot should be of such a size that the old one fits freely in it.

Stages of begonia transplantation:

1. Take a new pot and pour a 2-3 cm layer of drainage into it.
2. If there is additional leavening agent (sphagnum, perlite, vermiculite), then add a few spoons to the pot (depending on the size of the pot and begonia).
3. Remove the begonia from the old pot and shake off some peat or soil from the roots.
4. Place the flower so that it is at the same depth and fill it with fresh soil.

Video: How to transplant begonia

After replanting a homemade begonia, not a store-bought one, that has overwintered in an apartment, radical pruning of the bush is necessary.

Remove all shoots, leaving three or four. In some varieties, only one stem grows, so you don’t have to remove the excess, you just need to shorten it. Strongly elongated bare stems with leaves at the top are cut by a third. After this, the lower sleeping buds will wake up, and young shoots will also begin to grow. As a result, a lush bush will grow again.

Caring for begonias

Watering The top dried layer is loosened. And only when the soil dries to a depth of 1–2 cm can it be poured into the pan. The ideal way is to place the pot in a container of water until the soil is completely saturated. Then the pot is returned to the tray, after leaking into it excess water

drained. The frequency of watering depends on the conditions in which the begonia is kept: on a sunny window, an open balcony, in the garden. In the open air it is watered every day, in an apartment, on a shady closed balcony - once every 2-3 days. The condition of the soil should serve as a guide. The water must be softened. To do this, it is filtered and settled.

Water for watering begonias can be softened and made acidic using peat: 1 kg of peat in a fabric or gauze bag is infused for 24 hours in 10 liters of water. In addition, begonia is demanding on air humidity, but its leaves cannot be sprayed.

There are several ways to moisturize more gently: place cups of water next to the flower or pour sand, peat, expanded clay, moss into a tray and always keep this filler moist. In winter, place a damp cloth on the nearest radiator.

Feeding

Even ever-blooming begonias respond to the changing seasons. In autumn and winter, it becomes darker and cooler on the windowsills. The plant slows down. If you feed it during this period, the stems will become very elongated, the leaves will become tender and sensitive to diseases and pests. Therefore, begonias are fed often in summer, and once a month in winter.

Frequency of feeding depending on the season - table

Video: How to care for begonias

This question will never arise for a gardener who follows all the rules described above. If all the conditions are created for begonia: diffused light, watering without waterlogging and drying out the roots, the right temperature, regular feeding, then it will bloom exactly as much and even longer than the variety should. That is, evergreens are decorated with flowers all year round, Elatior - in winter, all other varieties begin to bloom in spring throughout the summer.

If only one nuance. Begonias are not long-lived, they delight with beautiful foliage and abundant flowering for only 2-3 years, and then you need to take a cutting or a leaf and plant a new begonia. The old one will no longer grow or bloom.

Begonia propagation

Handle

1. Cut a cutting with a tip 6–10 cm long.
2. Powder the cut area with crushed wood, activated carbon or ash.
3. Plant in moist, loose begonia soil and cover with a jar.
4. When the soil dries out, water it in a tray, like a regular begonia.
5. If the outcome is favorable, the cutting will take root and begin to grow in 2–4 weeks.
6. Gradually accustom the plant to the air in the room. You can place a peg under the neck of the jar to initially only ventilate the mini-greenhouse, and after 2-3 days remove the jar completely.
7. If the cutting has dried out or rotted, repeat the experiment with another cutting.

This method can be used to propagate all begonias that have stems.

Leaf

1. Using a sharp knife, cut off a healthy leaf right next to the cutting.
2. Place the leaf in water with activated carbon (1 tablet per glass of water).
3. If the petiole begins to rot, you need to cut it to a healthy place and change the water.
4. As soon as young roots form, plant them in a permanent pot.
5. When it starts to grow new begonia, the leaf will dry out.

The method is good for begonias with small leaves. Large ones take root very poorly, because they require a lot of nutrition, and young roots cannot cope with this task. Therefore, begonias with large leaves propagated by leaf segments.

Part of a sheet

First way

1. The leaf is cut into segments in the direction from the central vein to the edges. Each segment should have 1–3 veins.
2. Place pieces of leaf on top of wet sand or peat; you can stick them into the ground with the cut side down.
3. Cover with a plastic bag or plant each segment in a separate container and cover with jars.
4. Keep the soil moist.
5. The first sprouts may appear in 1–3 months.
6. Gradually accustom the begonia to the air in the apartment and remove the shelter.

Second way

1. Make cuts across the central vein and the thickest veins.
2. Spread the leaf over the damp begonia soil.
3. Press with stones.
4. Cover the pot with film and place it in the same place where adult begonias grow.
5. Keep the soil moist.
6. When sprouts appear, gradually remove the cover.

tuber

Tuberous begonia is also best propagated by cuttings or leaves. Manipulating tubers is very risky and you can lose the entire plant.

1. At the end of February, after a period of dormancy, remove the tuber from the pot.
2. If there are children, separate them and plant each in a separate pot.
3. If there are sprouts on a tuber, divide it with a sharp knife so that each segment has a sprout.
4. The sections are dusted with coal or ash.
5. Deepen the tuber pieces halfway (sprouts up, cuts down).
6. Cover with a jar and keep the soil moist.
7. When the stems grow 7 cm long, bury the tuber completely.

Seeds

Given the fact that begonias reproduce well vegetatively, growing from seeds is an illogical decision. However, flower growers also use this method if neither home nor friends have the required variety. Then you can buy seeds in a store or from breeders and try to grow a gorgeous flower from the smallest seed. Sowing the seeds is done in December-January so that the begonias bloom by spring-summer.

1. Spread the seeds on the surface of moist begonia soil or in peat tablets. Press the seeds to the ground, but do not bury them.
2. Set up a mini-greenhouse: cover with film, place in a disposable container with a lid, etc.
3. After 2 weeks, if the soil does not dry out or become waterlogged, shoots will appear.
4. Transfer the seedlings to the brightest window or illuminate them with lamps. Gradually remove the cover.
5. When 2-3 true leaves appear, each plant can be transplanted into a pot.

Video: Propagation of begonia by seeds

Begonia diseases - table

A beautiful plant with a variety of bizarre shapes, the favorite flower of many women is indoor begonia. Flower lovers know many varieties and forms of this flower. But the flower is diverse not only in variety and shape, there are also indoor and outdoor begonias.

Outdoor begonia can be herbaceous or shrubby. At home it is usually planted hybrid species Begonias are ornamental and deciduous begonias. The photographs published in this article will help you understand as much as possible all the intricacies of this plant.

The beauty of indoor begonia is revealed when it begins to bloom. During the flowering period, the plant emits a pleasant aroma. Indoor begonia blooms in white, yellow or pink. The beauty of blooming begonia is a mesmerizing sight. Some varieties of begonias do not bloom and these varieties are not similar to each other in the shape and color of the leaves. Any housewife can breed indoor begonias at home. This plant does not require special care. But you still need to consult with experienced flower growers on how to care for this beautiful flower.

Caring for begonia at home

It is known that indoor begonia is not a whimsical plant. But she still needs care, just like anyone else. house plant. The temperature required for normal plant growth in winter should be 18-20 degrees Celsius. IN summer time It is advisable to maintain the air temperature within 20-25 degrees. This is the usual room temperature in any apartment and maintaining this temperature in the room will not be difficult.

It is important to know that indoor begonia should receive a lot of light. You need to determine a place for this flower somewhere near the window. When it comes to lighting, you need to know when to stop; this indoor flower does not like exposure to direct sunlight. And therefore, in the spring-summer period, when the sun shines especially brightly, you need to protect the plant from direct sun rays. It can be shaded by covering it with a window curtain or in another way.

It is important to familiarize yourself with the methods of watering this wonderful flower. You need to know that watering is affected by the air temperature in the room and the seasons. For example, in winter you should not water indoor begonia often, but in spring and summer, on the contrary, it is advisable to water it as often as possible. Although it was previously noted that begonia is not a fastidious flower, soil that is too wet or too dry is not suitable for it. Watering should be done as needed. When the soil dries to a depth of 1-2 centimeters, it is time to water.

Experienced gardeners advise watering begonias with soft water. Therefore, for irrigation purposes it is necessary to have a supply of water. The water in the bucket or canister will have time to settle. When watering begonias, you do not need to spray it. If indoor begonia is sprayed, it will become covered with spots. We must remember one more feature of plant care. It is very important to create high air humidity. Air humidity should be at least 50-60 percent. And during the dry period, it is necessary to place the flower pot on damp peat, moss, or at least on a tray of water.

You cannot remain indifferent while watching the blooming begonia. Photos of blooming indoor begonia are a special sight. Modern photographic equipment will capture the vibrant and rich beauty of blooming begonia. But begonia flowers are not eternal, time comes and the flowers fall off. Peace and calm begin in the life of a flower. During periods of calm, watering should be done less frequently. The plant will need cooler air for about a month. Therefore, it needs to be moved from the window to a place more suitable for this period. Before this, it was necessary to cut off the dry parts of the plant.

Soil and replanting

There are no special requirements for the soil for begonia. You can prepare the soil for this plant yourself, or you can purchase it at a flower shop. Fill flower pot necessary as follows: a little more than half the pot is filled with leaf soil, one part each of black soil and peat. It is important not to forget about the sand, since it also needs to be put in the pot. If you prepare the soil correctly, indoor begonia will grow well.

Begonia should be replanted as needed. The time comes and the grown roots do not have enough space in the old pot. This means that the plant needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Usually, plants are transplanted in the spring, at the very beginning. The begonia is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are cleared of old soil. Next, for a short period of time, the roots of the plant should be placed in a jar with a solution of potassium permanganate and then the rotting parts of the roots should be cut off.

When replanting indoor begonia, you do not need to fill a full pot of soil. You should leave a little space and when the roots grow, then you can add soil. The transplanted plant requires frequent watering. It is also important to protect the plant from direct sunlight during the first time after transplantation. A newly transplanted begonia will have to be looked after more seriously. This special courtship must last at least one month.

Begonia diseases

If the flower does not receive enough moisture or the room temperature is below normal, then problems begin. Begonia buds fall off. Lack of moisture has a bad effect on the leaves, which turn yellow and then completely fall off. In poor lighting, the color of indoor begonia leaves changes. Leaves become pale.

Gray rot is the name of the main fungal disease of flowers. The disease can affect the entire flower. Stems, leaves, shoots, and buds become diseased. To treat a plant, it is necessary to trim the affected areas of the flower in time, and the flower itself must be treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Feed and fertilizers

Indoor begonia is fed in several cases. Immediately after an illness, when the plants have just been transplanted or the conditions for maintaining the flower were not met.

Feed in this way: first add a weak solution of potassium nitrate, and then add complex fertilizers. You should not apply fertilizers that contain a lot of nitrogen. A large number of nitrogen can only do harm.

To propagate the plant, you need to divide the rhizome. Another way to propagate begonias is by cuttings. When propagating using this method, a cutting is cut off, on which 3 or 5 leaves should remain. The cut should be at an angle. Next, the cuttings are processed using crushed coal and transplanted into special soil.

Soil composition: peat, sand and leaf soil in equal parts. Comfortable conditions are created for the cuttings: the air temperature is 20 degrees and above, maintained required humidity and the watering regime is observed. Rooting of cuttings occurs in about a month. After rooting, they can be replanted.

Decorative - deciduous begonias reproduce by dividing the rhizomes

The rhizome is freed from the ground. Using a sharp knife, the rhizome is cut so that each part has 2 buds and roots. The separated parts should be planted in a pot and watered. In addition to published photographs and recommendations for this plant, the information in the article on growing tuberous begonia will be very useful.

Plant begonia (lat. Begonia) forms the most famous and largest genus of the Begoniaceae family. The genus includes about 1,000 species of plants growing in the mountains at altitudes of 3,000 to 4,000 meters above sea level, in tropical rainforests and subtropical regions. Most begonia species can be found in South America. Begonias also grow in the Himalayas, the mountains of India, Sri Lanka, the Malay Archipelago and western Africa. Moreover, there is an opinion that Africa is the birthplace of begonias, which then spread to Asia and America. Even today, more than a third of all species of the genus grow in Africa.

Begonias were discovered and described in the 17th century by the monk Charles Plumier, who took part in an expedition to the Antilles to collect plants. He discovered six species of begonia and named them after his friend Michel Begon, the governor of the island of Haiti. Today, the begonia flower is one of the most popular plants in both garden and indoor floriculture. In this article we will tell you how to care for begonias at home: how to plant begonias, what are the conditions for caring for begonias, how begonias propagate at home, and we will give a lot more important and interesting information about these beautiful plants.

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Planting and caring for begonia (in brief)

• Bloom: some species are grown as ornamental foliage plants, and flowering begonias can bloom at any time.
• Lighting: bright diffused light (eastern and western window sills).
• Temperature: the optimal temperature is 18 ˚C, but in summer begonia can withstand higher temperatures.
• Watering: balanced: usually moderate and not very frequent, in heat and drought - plentiful. Between waterings, the substrate in the pot should dry to a depth of 1.5 cm. In winter, watering is noticeably reduced, and tuberous plant species are not watered at all.
• Air humidity: increased, but it is not advisable to spray the flower; it is better to keep it on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.
• Feeding: flowering begonias - 2 times a month with a solution of a mineral complex for flowering indoor plants, and during the budding period - with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers such as Pollen, Bud or Ovary. Deciduous begonia species are fed in the same regime with a complex for decorative deciduous indoor plants.
• Rest period: in evergreen species it is weakly expressed, and tuberous species rest for a long time: from mid-autumn the leaves die off, so feeding the tuberous begonia is stopped, watering is reduced, and when the above-ground part dies off completely, the pots with tubers are stored until the start of the new growing season in a dark room at a temperature of 10 -15˚C. But even if the tuberous begonia does not intend to rest, you need to force it to do so: reduce watering and stop feeding.
• Transfer: as needed in early spring. Large plants can be divided when transplanted.
• Reproduction: seeds, leaf cuttings, division of rhizomes or tubers.
• Pests: aphids, nematodes and red spider mites.
• Diseases: gray rot, downy mildew, powdery mildew, black root rot.

Read more about growing begonias below.

Home begonia - care conditions

In addition to more than 1000 species of begonia, there are about 2000 thousand hybrid forms of this plant, so it is very difficult to give an average botanical description genus, especially since begonias in different classifications They are divided into decorative deciduous and decorative flowering, evergreen and deciduous, annual and perennial, tall and creeping, tuberous and rhizomatous. Many species and varieties of begonia are grown indoors, so first we will talk about how to care for home begonia and in what conditions it should be kept, and we will give a description of the plants in the section on species and varieties.

Caring for begonia at home

How to care for begonia

Indoor begonia loves constancy, so determine a place for it in the apartment once and for all - well-lit, but without direct sunlight. Flowering begonia especially needs bright lighting, so the best place for representatives of the begonia genus - window sills facing east or west. The optimal temperature for the plant in both winter and summer is 18 ºC, but in summer begonia can tolerate higher temperatures.

Accustomed to tropical conditions, domestic begonia loves high air humidity, but it is still better not to spray it, since brown spots then appear on its leaves. So that the plant does not suffer from dry air, especially in winter, when heating devices working at full power, place the begonia pot on an inverted tray inserted into a larger tray. Place expanded clay around the smaller tray and keep it wet all the time so that the evaporating water creates required level humidity around the plant.

Decorative begonia does not tolerate crowding, so when placing the plant on the windowsill next to other flowers, try to take it into account maximum size. Begonia needs regular ventilation, but in drafts, as well as in too high or too high low temperature air, the plant reacts by withering and dropping flowers and leaves.

Pots and soil for begonias

Planting and caring for home begonias begins with choosing a container for growing the plant. Begonias need small and preferably ceramic pots, which are only 3-4 cm in diameter larger than the root system of the plant, because in containers that are too spacious, begonias can suffer from waterlogging and bloom late. Soil for begonias can be purchased at a flower shop, or you can mix it yourself from two parts of leaf soil with the addition of one part each of high-moor peat, sand and humus, or turf soil. The optimal acidity of the substrate for begonia should be within the pH range of 5.5-6.5.

Planting begonias

When planting begonia, a third of the volume of the pot is filled with drainage material, and a layer of charcoal 2-3 cm thick is placed on top of it to prevent rot. Then the begonia with an earthen lump is placed in the pot and all voids are filled with soil mixture. After planting, the begonia is watered. Planting is carried out in the spring, from mid-March, when sufficient illumination and daylight hours are established for plant development. Before planting, tuberous begonias should be germinated in boxes without being buried in the substrate, in a bright place at a temperature of 16-18 ºC and at high humidity - 60-70%.

Watering begonias

Caring for begonia at home requires balanced hydration of the plant. Indoor flower Begonia is moisture-loving, but this does not mean that it needs to be watered often. It is much more important to create a sufficient level of air humidity for begonia, otherwise the tips of the plant’s leaves will dry out. Abundant watering only needed in hot weather summer days, however, you need to make sure that the water does not stagnate in the roots of the begonia. For irrigation, use water that has been left standing for 24 hours at room temperature. The plant requires moisture when its earthen ball has dried to a depth of 1.5 cm. In winter, watering is reduced, and tuberous plant species do not need watering at all in winter.

Fertilizing Begonias

Caring for home begonia involves adding fertilizer to the soil. Decorative flowering species begonias are fertilized from the moment the buds form twice a month with liquid complex fertilizer for flowering plants. In the phase of ovary formation, fertilizing is carried out with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers - Bud, Ovary, Pollen. IN nitrogen fertilizers Only decorative deciduous begonias are needed - if you feed flowering species with them, the begonia may not bloom.

Replanting begonias

Caring for and growing begonias requires timely replanting of the plant, and this is carried out in early spring, before intensive growth begins. The hanging leaves will tell you that it’s time to transplant the begonia into a larger pot. drain holes roots. The begonia is removed from the pot, carefully cleaned of old peat, the root system is placed for half an hour in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, then the roots are carefully washed to remove any remaining substrate with settled water, rotten areas are removed, the roots are allowed to dry and planted in a larger pot in the order which we have already described. The transplanted plant is returned to permanent place and water it often at first.

Young begonias tolerate the procedure easily, but replanting takes more mature plants much more difficult due to the overgrown fragile leaves, therefore, as soon as the plant turns 3 years old, it is divided into several parts.

Begonia in winter

The dormant period in evergreen begonia species is weak, and tuberous species require a long rest. How to care for begonias in winter? Caring for home begonias during the dormant period depends on the type of plant. Bush and ornamental species are kept at a temperature of 15-22 ºC, maintaining high air humidity - for this, the batteries are covered with wet towels or air humidifiers are installed.

Tuberous begonias prepare for a dormant period from mid-autumn - their leaves dry out and die, so watering must be reduced, and when the above-ground part of the plants completely dies, the pots with tubers are transferred to a dark room until the end of winter and stored at a temperature of 10-15 ºC. Sometimes tuberous begonia behaves as if it is not going to rest, and in order for it to bloom profusely next year, you will have to force it to rest: greatly reduce watering and cut off the above-ground part.

Indoor begonia - propagation

How to propagate begonia

Begonia propagates by seeds and vegetatively - by leaf cuttings, stems, division of a bush or rhizome (tuber). It is easier and more reliable to propagate begonia vegetatively.

Growing begonia from seeds

Growing begonia from seeds is not a labor-intensive process and does not take much time. At the end of February or beginning of March, small begonia seeds are sown on the surface of a light, loose substrate without embedding them in the soil, after which they are placed in a warm, bright place and covered with film or glass. Watering is carried out in a tray or by spraying from a spray bottle. As soon as the seedlings appear, the covering is removed, and when the seedlings develop 3-4 leaves, they are picked. After two months, the seedlings are planted in separate pots. Begonia blooms from seeds in the first year, but for this it may need additional lighting.

Reproduction of begonia by dividing the rhizome (tuber)

Deciduous begonia reproduces by dividing the rhizome. To do this, in the spring, the plant is removed from the ground, the rhizome is cut into pieces with a sharp knife, each of which must contain roots and at least one shoot or bud. The sections are treated with crushed coal, after which parts of the rhizome are planted in separate pots.

A tuber of an adult begonia can also be divided into parts and, after drying the sections a little and treating them with crushed coal, plant the sections in separate pots.

Propagation of begonias by cuttings

Propagation of begonias by cuttings is the easiest vegetative methods. Cuttings with 3-4 leaves are cut from the plant, their sections are treated with charcoal to prevent rotting, after which the cuttings are planted in a substrate of sand, peat and leaf soil in equal parts and placed in a bright, warm place, protected from direct sunlight. Begonia cuttings are watered moderately - the substrate should have time to dry out between waterings to a depth of 1-2 cm. Rooting can be done simply in water. The roots of the cuttings grow within a month.

Begonia propagation by leaf

Since many types of begonia are distinguished by large and dense leaves, they can be propagated by leaf cuttings, using both whole sheet, and part of it. When propagating by a whole leaf, the main veins are cut on the underside of the plate, the bottom side of the leaf is laid on pre-calcined wet sand and secured in this position. The soil is moistened through a tray. After two months, roots grow from the veins in the places where the cuts are made, and then new plants grow. When small begonias get stronger and begin to grow, they are separated and planted in a soil mixture of equal parts of peat, sand and deciduous soil.

Pests and diseases of begonia

At home, begonia can be damaged by aphids, nematodes and red spider mites. Aphids and mites feed on the plant's cell sap, causing begonia to lose its attractiveness and lag behind in development. 2-3 treatments with Actellik or Karbofos with an interval of 7-10 days can rid the plant of aphids, and mites can be destroyed with Decis, Derris or other insectoacaricides. There is no treatment for nematodes, during whose life processes the begonia leaves become discolored and swellings form on the roots - the flower will have to be thrown away.

Among the diseases that affect begonia are botrytis, gray rot, downy or true powdery mildew, black root rot - fungicides will help you against these diseases - Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol, Skor, Quadris or any other drug of similar effect. But sometimes begonias get sick with bacterial or viral diseases - cucumber mosaic, bacterial wilt or tomato spot. There is no cure for these diseases, so the plant will have to be destroyed.

Begonia dries

Begonia diseases are not the only problem you may encounter. Sometimes the plant behaves strangely - its leaves suddenly begin to dry out. This is due to the temperature being too high and insufficient humidity soil and air. Water the plant and move it to a cooler place, building a tray for it with wet expanded clay, as described at the beginning of the article.

Begonia turns yellow

Sometimes begonia leaves appear yellow spots or rings - this is how cucumber mosaic or tomato spotting appears. Sick plants are destroyed. If the leaves turn yellow and droop, this means that the begonia is cold and there is too much moisture in the soil. Let the soil in the pot dry and move the plant to a warmer room.

Types and varieties of begonia

There is no single established classification of begonias today, but in specialized literature you can find conventional options for dividing begonia species, for example, into decorative deciduous and decorative flowering or, for example, division according to the characteristics of the underground part - into rhizomatous, tuberous begonias and begonias with a shallow root system. Some prefer to divide the species of this plant into the following groups: decorative deciduous, bushy and tuberous. But recently, begonia species are more often divided into:

• bushy begonias with bamboo-like erect shoots;
• begonias with thin and flexible drooping or creeping shoots;
• species with thick rhizomatous lodging or lying shoots;
• species that are the ancestors of beautiful flowering hybrids.

In indoor floriculture, it is more convenient to use the following classification of begonias:

• decorative flowering indoor begonias;
• decorative deciduous indoor begonias;
• decorative flowering potted begonias.

We offer you the names of the types of begonias most common in indoor culture, with their brief descriptions, as well as the names of the varieties of begonias belonging to these species. Deciduous begonia, or leaf begonia, in indoor floriculture is represented by the following species:

- a plant native to Eastern India. This is one of the most beautiful begonias, on the basis of which numerous decorative deciduous varieties and hybrids have been bred. It has a thickened rhizome and beautiful, large, bare or slightly pubescent leaves up to 30 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, asymmetrical heart-shaped with wavy or unevenly jagged edges of bronze-brown, velvety crimson or red-violet color, which are sometimes decorated with red-violet or silvery spots. There are hybrids with almost black leaves with crimson spots. This species blooms inconspicuously pink flowers. The best varieties of royal begonia:

• Cartagena- a variety with dark green rounded leaves wrapped in a shell. The dark brown center of the leaf becomes plum-colored as the plant matures. The green background of the leaf is covered with silvery spots with a pinkish glow;
• Silver Greenheart– a plant with silvery, obliquely heart-shaped leaves with an emerald green border in silvery splashes;
• Chocolit Cream– the middle of the spirally twisted leaf of this variety has a juicy plum shade, and the main part of the plate is silver with a pink tint;
• Evening Glow- a variety with medium-sized leaves with a bright crimson center, from which greenish-brown veins radiate across the crimson field. The edge of the leaf blade is crimson;
• Hallelujah- a variety with large, spirally twisted leaves at the petioles, soft purple leaves with a silver tint. The center and edge of the leaf blade are cherry-colored, and between them there is a wide bright green stripe, completely covered with silvery spots.

In addition to those described, the following varieties and hybrids of royal begonia are popular: Lilian, Pearl de Paris, Red Tengo, Regal Minuet, Titica, Silver Corkscrew, Benitochiba, Black Fang, Deudrop, November Frost, Charm and many others;

or begonia Bauer, or maple leaf begonia, originally from Mexico. This is a low plant - it reaches no more than 25 cm - with a creeping stem and leaves of light green color with black or brown spots around the edges. The underside of the leaf blade is pubescent. Light pink, inconspicuous flowers are collected in drooping, loose inflorescences. This species is rare in nature, but thanks to hybridization carried out by breeders, many very spectacular varieties have been developed. The best varieties tiger begonia:

• Tiger- a plant with a creeping stem, reaching a height of 10 cm. The leaves are velvety, bronze with a pattern, along the veins there is a brown stripe, the petioles are reddish, spotted;
• Cleopatra– this variety has leaves covered with light hairs that change color depending on the lighting, the underside of the leaf blade is red or burgundy.

- semi-shrub plant from tropical forests Brazil, in room conditions reaching a height of about 1 m. The stems of this species are erect, bare, resembling bamboo. The leaves have serrated edges, oblong, ovate, up to 20 cm long and up to 7 cm wide. The upper side of the leaf blade is dark green with silver spots, the lower side is light green. Flowers on coral peduncles are collected in racemes. The most famous varieties:

• Alfalfa- a plant with large green leaves with jagged edges, covered with silvery spots on the upper side of the plate. The underside is red;
• President Carnot– a variety with shield-shaped leaves dissected at the base of the plate with a slightly toothed edge. Leaves are up to 30 cm long, up to 15 cm wide, with whitish spots on the green background of the leaves.

- one of the oldest indoor plants, imported from Mexico. It has a creeping stem about 4 cm thick and large, palmately dissected leaves up to 35 cm long, with obvious venation, located on yellow-green petioles. The flowers are greenish-pink, collected in loose racemes, open in February.

In addition to those described, the following types of decorative deciduous begonias are in demand in culture: Mason, striped, hogweed, metallic, white-spotted, Bovera, red-leaved, yellow, Limminga, brilliant, imperial and many others.

Decorative flowering species of begonia in indoor culture are:

- a small bush-like plant reaching a height of 60 cm with erect shoots at a young age, and in an adult plant they take an ampelous or semi-ampeloid shape. The leaves of begonias of this species are round, slightly pubescent along the edges, up to 6 cm long, light green, dark green, sometimes with a reddish tint. Simple or double flowers of white, pink or red, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, are collected in short-lived inflorescences that quickly fade, but are immediately replaced by other flowers. If you provide good care For an ever-blooming begonia, you provide it with the necessary lighting and nutrition, it can bloom in winter. The best varieties of this species are:

• Gustav Knaake– a spreading bush up to 30 cm high with green leaves with a red outline and bright carmine flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences;
• Carmen– medium-sized begonia with brown leaves with anthocyanin and numerous pink flowers;
• Ambergris– a plant up to 15 cm high with brown leaves and pink flowers up to 3 cm in diameter;
• Bicola– a bush up to 14 cm high with green leaves and white flowers with pinkish edges;
• Orania- a compact bush up to 16 cm high with green leaves with a red border and orange-red flowers.

Varieties of ever-flowering begonia Leila, Bella, Lucifer, Rozanova, Scarletta, Linda, Albert Martin, Ball Red, Othello, Kate Teicher and others are also grown in cultivation.

- this is the brightest and most abundantly flowering hybrid plant, an absolute favorite among indoor begonias. It reaches a height of no more than 40 cm, it has a fleshy thick stem and alternate heart-shaped leaves up to 8 cm long with a jagged edge. The upper side of the leaves is glossy, bright green, the lower side is matte and lighter. Flowers are collected in inflorescences on long peduncles. The most famous varieties:

• Schwabenland– a tall variety that blooms profusely with small bright red flowers;
• Renaissance– double begonia, tall, red flowers have corrugated petals;
• Louise– variety with light cream flowers with a pinkish tint:
• Piccora– low-growing begonia with double flowers of a bright pink hue;
• Rose- a variety with dark pink double flowers.

Also popular are the varieties of begonia elatior Sharlach, Kyoto, Cleo, Goldfinger, Annebelle, Azotus, Bellona, ​​Berlin and others;

often grown in gardens and to decorate terraces and balconies. It is characterized by drooping shoots descending in cascades with numerous flowers. Ampelous begonias are grown in hanging planters, baskets and pots. Among this group of begonias there are varieties with simple, semi-double, double and densely double flowers of white, red, pink, yellow and orange flowers, as well as all sorts of combinations thereof. Flowers can be small, medium-sized or large. We offer you several the best varieties ampelous begonia:

• Gail– a spreading bush with long hanging shoots up to 30 cm long with jagged green leaves pointed at the top and semi-double pale pink flowers up to 3 cm in diameter;
• Christie– a spreading bush with weak hanging shoots up to 40 cm long and white double flowers up to 4 cm in diameter;
• Roxana– a compact bush with hanging shoots up to 40 cm long with orange double flowers up to 4 cm in diameter;
• Kati– spreading bush with rather weak shoots up to 30 cm long with semi-double ones yellow flowers up to 3.5 cm in diameter.

Among decorative flowering begonias, the following hybrid varieties are popular today:

• Harlequin – large-flowered variety with a spreading bush up to 25 cm high with green leaves and double flowers up to 12 cm in diameter, yellow with a red border;
• Gold Dress– a semi-spreading variety up to 25 cm high with light green leaves and pink, densely double yellow flowers with a diameter of up to 20 cm;
• Duck Red– a semi-spreading bush no more than 16 cm high with bright green foliage and dark red double peony-shaped flowers up to 10 cm in diameter with wide petals;
• Camellia Flora– a compact bush up to 25 cm high with green leaves and pink camellia-shaped flowers up to 12 cm in diameter with tiled petals with a white border;
• Crispa Marghinata– a bush up to 15 cm high with green folded leaves with thin purple ropes and white flowers up to 12 cm in diameter, wide oval in shape with a bright pink border and strongly corrugated wavy side petals;
• Amy Jean Bard– a bush up to 12 cm high with small green leaves and inflorescences of 5 double flowers orange color diameter up to 3 cm;
• Diana Vinyard– compact begonia up to 20 cm high with light green foliage and densely double white flowers up to 20 cm in diameter with folded wavy petals;
• Marmorata– semi-spreading bush up to 20 cm high with double scarlet flowers up to 12 cm in diameter with white streaks;
• Feuerflamme- a bush up to 20 cm high with green leaves with crimson veins and semi-double flowers up to 3 cm in diameter of orange-pink color.