Iron stove lined with bricks for the home. Do you need a cast iron brick? Metal stoves lined with bricks: photo

The best situation is when the owner country house(for example) starts building a bathhouse, having clarified for himself as many issues related to it as possible. For example, the question of what kind of stove will it be?, which he is going to put, is very important, because it determines are they needed preparatory work for it during the construction period and to what extent. And if he is going to cover the stove in the bathhouse with bricks, then he needs to make a base of appropriate size and strength.

However, the question of how to line an iron stove with bricks may arise long after the construction of the bathhouse is completed. In this case, the matter may not be limited to simple construction small walls, but will (possibly) even require dismantling the furnace. In this article we will sequentially analyze each option for the development of events in different scenarios.

Reasons to line the stove in a bathhouse with bricks

Metal furnaces for baths, lined with bricks

The decision must be made carefully, so let’s name the reasons why the lining is done iron stove brick in the bathhouse.

Unfortunately, the metal stove itself is a source of not only rapid heat, but also hard infrared radiation that burns the skin from a distance, without contact with the object. Besides, rapid rise temperature in the bath leads to dry air, and this is a big obstacle to creating the right bath microclimate. The third significant reason is that the metal not only heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly and in a bathhouse this leads to excessive consumption of firewood and unnecessary movements.

Brick is artificial stone , and therefore, it takes longer for the metal to heat up and release heat much longer. Construction protective screen made from this material allows for relatively cheap (compared to natural stone) eliminate the main disadvantages of a metal stove: make the radiation softer, warm up longer, but without drying out the air, increase the efficiency of the stove, retaining heat from burnt wood longer.

Creating a foundation before covering an iron stove in a bathhouse with bricks

The problem is that the story begins long before the stove in the bathhouse is lined. And it starts with calculation, without which you will not be able to correctly estimate the weight of the stove together with the screen, and therefore, you will either waste money on the foundation, or, conversely, underestimate the weight and ruin, at a minimum, the floor.

Calculation after which a decision is made on the choice of base

You need to collect the following information:

• dimensions (length, width, height) and weight of the future or existing stove (manufacturers usually post similar information on their websites);
• mass of stones in a closed and/or open heater (also indicated by the manufacturer);
• tank for hot water- if it is assumed, then its mass and the volume of water it can hold (1 l = 1 kg).

Next you will have to figure out what kind of brick you will use - red fireproof or fireclay. Since a discussion of the types of bricks awaits you below, here we will indicate the size of only ordinary red refractory brick, which, by the way, is the leader when choosing to cut an iron stove in a bathhouse with facing bricks.

So, the dimensions and weight of one standard brick — 250 mm in length, 120 m in width, 65 mm in height, weight 4 kg.

Now imagine how many bricks will it take for 1 row, if you put them along the walls of the oven with a minimum gap of 5 cm between the oven and the screen?

Screens are different - on four sides, on three, on two— choose your option, focusing on the height of the stove, and calculate how many rows will fit.

By the way! Do not forget that the brick in the masonry can also be laid in different ways (1/2, quarter and other options), and this will affect the base area.

Multiplying number of rows per number of bricks in a row, get the general quantity the required material, as well as his mass, multiplying the result by 4.

Add the mass of the screen with the mass of the oven, stones, tank, water in the tank. Add 20% as a safety margin.

If the mass comes out less than 700 kg, you can safely make the base directly on the floor boards. Otherwise, you will have to build.

Foundation on foundation

Let's start with the more difficult one. You have calculated everything and it turns out that without a foundation there is no way. The task is easier if you are at the construction stage, otherwise you may have to dismantle the stove, the old base, or part of the floor.

IMPORTANT! You know the dimensions of the foundation by area from the calculations made above. This is a platform formed by bricks on the sides of the stove. Add 10-15 cm to it on all sides.

Start digging a hole. If the soil can withstand it (let’s say, if in the calculations the matter was shallow, then there is no need to deepen the stove too much), do half a meter deep and fill it 3/5 with a mixture of sand and gravel, or just crushed stone.

Keep in mind! Furnace and bath foundations Not only should they not touch, it is recommended that the distance between them be at least 5 cm.

On top of the pillow is usually done mortar screed cement-sand 1:4.

Placed on top of the screed waterproofing, formwork And is poured concrete foundation, can be reinforced, 20 cm high. It will be below floor level.

Note! When drying concrete, it must be frequently sprayed with water to prevent it from cracking.

Concrete again waterproofed, after which they are placed on it foundation bricks- fireproof red or fireclay, which are placed on clay mortar . Height - 1-4 rows. Do not forget to check the horizontal level at each stage.

After that, install your device and begin to build a brick screen for a metal stove in the bathhouse.

Floor base

It is easier to cover a metal stove in a bathhouse with bricks if the base is made directly on the floor. However, you need to take into account the structure of the floor and first calculate whether specific lumber can withstand the upcoming load.

ESSENTIAL! IN old bathhouse A mandatory procedure will be to open the floors and check the beams and joists for rot and other damage. Replacing the damaged one is inevitable due to the increasing load.

Let's start with the fact that the stove does not press on the floor pointwise, but approximately evenly, because it stands on a brick base. This means that we must add the weight of the foundation bricks to the previously calculated total for the stove and screen, and then divide by the area occupied by the latter, measured in square meters. As a result, we get a load on square meter floor surface under the stove.

In the table below you will find the parameters of beams (width, height, thickness) that will withstand the specified maximum load - 150, 250, 350, 450 kg per square.

If yours don't fit, don't worry - the beams can be strengthened channel, steel strip or rods, as well as wood overlays.

If beams located at a distance of a meter or more, experts advise putting additional beam between them. For example, pine with a section of 100x150 mm.

The next thing to worry about is lags. There are also maximum loads for them. Look for the values ​​in the table below.

If there are no color marks, then the values ​​are not close to the tensile strength. Green color- acceptable, but already limit value. Red - unacceptable!

Joists are easier to replace than beams.

So, having completed the preparatory work with the floor, you are ready to begin creating the foundation. To do this, markings are made on the floor with allowance from the screen is 10-15 cm. If any side or sides of the oven are not covered by a screen, then the allowance is made from the furnace itself.

Don't forget that the rules fire safety require to protect the space in front of the firebox, preventing sparks from entering flammable material. You can either extend the refractory half a meter in front of the firebox, or place a metal pre-furnace sheet there.

After marking, it is placed on the floor refractory sheet- material of your choice: asbestos, ceramic fiber or another option. The edges are secured to the floor using self-tapping screws.

asbestos cardboard (asbestos cardboard)

The next layer is the foundation bricks, the height of which can be, for example, 20 cm. Use only solid refractory bricks- red or fireclay. Solution - clay or with a small addition of cement. Alternatively, you can buy it in a store masonry mixture.

Most often limited two rows of masonry. Excess solution is removed without waiting for it to dry. Evenness is also checked immediately using a level - this should not be neglected.

After such lengthy preparations, we are already close to the story of how to line an iron stove in a bathhouse.

Lining an iron stove with bricks in a bathhouse

All the variety of options can be easily demonstrated by breaking them down into points.

Types of linings

Photo of the finishing of the stove in the bathhouse (at the bottom of the vent for controlling convection)

If you surround the oven with brick walls on four sides, it will full lining. Otherwise - partial. Regardless of how many walls will not be enough to complete, there is a significant difference between one and the other type. It consists in the controllability of convection.

To put it simply: this matters only for lovers of Russian baths. If convection is controlled, you block it at the right moment, hot air the heated metal heats not the steam room, but the walls of the brick sarcophagus. They transmit softer heat. Heating slows down. You get the opportunity to maintain the conditions of a Russian bath - 55-60 degrees and about the same humidity.

To control convection, the bottom and top of the screen are made vents with doors or plugs made of pieces of brick - when open, they do not interfere with air movement.

Even with one open wall near the stove, you can only count on a sauna. And the functions of the screen will be reduced to protection against burns, heat accumulation and fire safety. Which, in general, is also not bad).

Ways to fence off an iron sauna stove with bricks

Bricks for lining a metal stove in a bathhouse can be placed different ways. Let's list them all.

By the presence or absence of empty space between bricks:

• Solid masonry- is rarely used because it creates an obstacle to convection and significantly reduces the efficiency of the furnace.
• Discharged masonry- gaps in each row, which is also an infrequent solution, because it also reduces the efficiency, this time of the screen itself. Heat actively escapes through vents, convection is uncontrolled, analogous to the absence of one or more walls.

Downstairs and upstairs vents with doors are the most common option. Controlled convection.

According to the position of the bricks in the masonry:

• Into the brick- rare masonry, which simultaneously wastes a lot of material and reduces the efficiency of the stove, since it takes too much time to heat a steam room with such a screen.
• Half a brick- the best option, which is done by the majority. The thickness of the walls and the stability of the structure are not satisfactory. But if desired, you can reinforce it by placing wire or mesh in the seams between the rows.
• A quarter brick- a rare option, because the wall is both thin and unstable. The latter circumstance can be compensated for by reinforcement with wire/mesh, but it is still recommended to install such a screen only if you have the appropriate experience.

What kind of brick to line an iron stove in a bathhouse

Let's say right away that sand-lime brick not suitable for these purposes at all. Here's what kind of brick you can use to line a steel stove in a bathhouse: red fireproof or fireclay. Both are better full-bodied. However, one must take into account that today you can find bricks on sale not only different sizes, but also of varying degrees of decorativeness. In particular, there are options specifically for laying stoves and fireplaces.

What brick to line an iron stove in a bathhouse with? depends on the distance you leave between the screen and the oven. Let's say, if it is extremely small and amounts to 1 or 2 cm, then The heating of the bricks will be strong, which determines the choice of fireclay. However, no one (or almost no one) does this. Minimum distance is 5 cm. Already in this case air currents will not allow the brick to overheat regularly. And if you increase it to 7-10 cm, then inner surface bricks will completely stop heating above 200 degrees. The presence of lower vents also reduces this figure.

Advice! Fireclay is more expensive, so it should be used only where its fire-resistant properties are really important - for example, it is used to line the inside of the firebox. Red fire brick is enough to create a screen.

Having figured out what kind of brick to line a metal stove in a bathhouse, let’s move on to the composition of the solution.

What solution is suitable for lining the stove?

There are quite a few options for masonry mortar. The most commonly mentioned components are clay and sand with the addition of cement, but variations are possible.

• You can take clay and cement 50x50, and then add sand in an amount from 1/10 to 1/3 of the total amount.
• Another option: take twice as much sand as clay and add half as much water as clay. As you can see, this is a cementless option.
• Another option without cement involves equal parts sand and clay and adding 100 grams of regular table salt onto a bucket of solution.
• Mortars with fireclay powder are less durable than those made from ordinary clay; they are best used for grouting joints inside a masonry well. The proportions are different, for example, this: clay 60%, fireclay powder 30%, cement 10%. Or take equal amount cement and sand, add to them 10-30% sand and 20-25% fireclay powder.

Clay You can pre-soak it. Either gently crush the dry mixture on a sheet or in a shallow bath with a small amount of water. And only after gaining plasticity is everything else added to it.

IMPORTANT! Many people advise letting the solution sit for half an hour or a little more before starting to work with it. During this time, the water is distributed, the mixture thickens, and the solution becomes ready for laying.

Technology of cutting an iron stove in a bathhouse with facing bricks

Even before you start preparing the masonry mortar, you need to make sure that the bricks are also ready. Since in a dry form they are able to take moisture from a solution, they are accepted soak in water beforehand.

The process takes quite a long time - at least 12 hours. This is done both if you take a new brick and if it has already been in masonry. In the latter case, by the way, you should not waste time on completely cleaning the old solution.

You should check on the finished brick solution quality- if it does not tear or spread, then its consistency is correct, and you can start laying. Usually they are laid in half a brick, the rows are staggered. Each row is carefully checked for horizontal evenness using a level.

Advice! To maintain the correct distance of the seams, you can use special overlays, which are then removed.

Don’t forget that the screen can be reinforced, which we already mentioned above.

The laid out screen should stand for at least a day before you begin cleaning any excess solution from its surface. Can be used as a cleaning tool drill with a hard metal brush. After this procedure, it will be enough to simply go through with a regular dishwasher brush. soapy solution, and the cleanliness of the masonry is ensured.

Additionally: how to line an iron stove in a bathhouse with stone

Here we see two options:

• or you line it with bricks and then put it on top decorative tiles from natural stone- this will simultaneously increase the heat capacity of the casing, increase the heating time, and also change the design of your stove;
• or you should purchase one of the ready-made stone casings for stoves, which are cut in workshops to fit any model, as well as from any available stone. The most popular are casings made of soapstone (soapstone is softer, magnesite is better in this regard) and coils. However, you can find interesting options and from other rocks.

About the use of stones for lining, see in more detail.

Useful video

The first video will be useful for those who have never laid a brick themselves.

A video about how to get a Russian bathhouse by lining a metal stove with brick yourself and cheaply

In the following video, Teklar demonstrates the principle and procedure for lining its own furnace with an external firebox.

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Well, now you are fully armed with the knowledge of how, why and what you can line an iron stove in a bathhouse with. We can only wish you success and easy steam!

In contact with

Metal stoves are easy to use and reliable, but they quickly cool down and dry out the air in the steam room. Hard radiation from hot metal walls negatively affects people’s well-being; moreover, there is a risk of getting burned hot surface. Eliminating all these problems is very simple - just cover the stove with bricks.

When erecting a brick screen, it is necessary to fulfill all the conditions specified in SNiP 21-01-97 (Fire safety of buildings and structures).

SNiP 21-01-97. FIRE SAFETY OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. File for download

Although brick does not heat up as much as metal, it should not be laid close to wooden walls baths or on unprotected floor boards. It is also necessary to leave a gap between the walls of the stove and the brick, 5 to 10 cm wide. If there is no gap, the stove will overheat and, as a result, its service life will noticeably decrease. If the distance is made more than 10 cm, heating of the steam room will slow down and fuel consumption will increase.

The base for the stove and the brick screen must be common, otherwise uneven distribution of the load will cause subsidence individual elements. If, when installing the furnace, the heat-resistant base was made with a margin of area, additional preparation for the brickwork is not required. If there is no such reserve, and the edges of the platform protrude from under the stove body no more than 2-3 cm, it is necessary to disconnect the chimney pipe, dismantle the stove, and carefully and according to all the rules prepare a new base.

For the lining of stoves, solid red brick is usually used, which is characterized by heat resistance and durability. Suitable for these purposes and fireclay brick, but it is more difficult to process and is more expensive. There is a ceramic refractory brick with decorative surface, which has the same properties as a regular one, but looks much more impressive. With its help, you can not only improve heat transfer and protect yourself from harsh radiation, but also make the stove a decoration for your steam room.

It is also acceptable to use hollow red brick, especially if you want to reduce the load on the base. It just holds the temperature worse and cools down faster. And the most a budget option– using used red brick, you just need to thoroughly clean it of the remnants of the old mortar.

Please note that building material must be taken in reserve, since brick waste is inevitable during the laying process.

First you need to calculate the total weight of the stove and brickwork. The easiest way to find out how many bricks are needed for one row of screen is to lay them around the stove at a distance of 4-5 cm. Usually you get a square of 3x3 or 4x4 bricks, that is, from 9 to 16 pieces in one row. To calculate the number of rows, the height of the stove must be divided by the height of the brick - 65 mm. On average, this is 11-12 rows of masonry. Next, we multiply the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows and the weight of one brick, and we get the weight of the screen. Now all that remains is to add the weight of the stove and the water tank to this value.

For example, we take a red single brick weighing 3.4 kg, a metal Cuirassier stove weighing 57 kg and a water tank weighing 30 kg. The masonry consists of 10 rows, with 9 bricks in a row.

We perform the calculation:

• 9x10x3.4=306 kg (weight of brickwork);
• 306 + 57 + 30=393 kg.

Conclusion: this screen can be installed without an additional foundation.

Now let’s take a red refractory solid brick, which weighs 4.2 kg, a “Zhara-standard” oven of 102 kg and a tank of 50 kg. There are 11 rows in the masonry, a row consists of 16 bricks.

We perform the calculation:

• 11x16x4.2=739.2 kg (masonry weight);
• 739.2 + 102 + 50 =891.2 kg.

Conclusion: for such a screen a separate foundation is mandatory; the floor coverings will not withstand such a load.

If you have less than 700 kg, the base for the stove and brick screen can be made on top of the floor boards, having first strengthened the logs with additional beams. If the weight is more than 700 kg, you will have to make a separate foundation, otherwise the floor coverings will not hold up and will sag.

It is not difficult to make a reliable platform for a stove and a brick screen on the floor boards. First you need to make sure that the logs are in good condition and will withstand such a load. To do this, remove 2-3 boards at the location of the furnace and carefully inspect the ceilings. Rotten or damaged areas of joists should be replaced. If the step between the logs is at least 1 m, for reliability it is worth fixing in the middle another pine beam with a section of 100x150 mm or a larch beam 75x150 mm. The floorboards must also be dense, without cracks or damage, and at least 30 mm thick.

When the floors are strengthened, you can make markings: mark the parameters of the heater on the floor, add 5-10 cm on each side for the gap and 20 cm for the masonry itself. On the firebox side, add another 50 cm so that the floorboards are reliably protected from fire. Here it is especially important to comply with the rules prescribed in SNiP III-G.11-62.

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work. File for download

They take fireproof material, for example, asbestos cardboard, cut it in accordance with the marking lines and lay it on the floor. It is also convenient to use special heat-resistant slabs made of ceramic fiber and calcium silicate.

The refractory material is attached to the floorboards with self-tapping screws, and then two layers of brick are laid on it.

Only fireclay or solid red bricks can be used; other types are not suitable. It is recommended to soak the brick in water before laying it.

The solution used is either a special masonry mixture for stoves, which can be purchased at any hardware store, or a mixture of clay, cement and sand in a ratio of 1:0.15:3. The addition of cement improves the plasticity of the mortar and the density of the masonry.

Clay mortar for masonry. Determining quality

Lay a continuous layer of brick on top of the fire-resistant slab and level it with a trowel, always focusing on the level. The edges of the masonry should not protrude beyond the markings, and there should be no gaps between the bricks. Excess mortar around the edges is immediately removed with a trowel. When the bottom row is completely laid out and leveled, proceed to laying the second, top layer. Here everything is done in exactly the same way, only the brick is laid offset, overlapping the seams. Remove excess solution from all sides and allow the base to dry.

Monolithic foundation

Monolithic foundation - diagram

When the foundation is sufficiently strengthened, it is covered with roofing felt in two layers and a brick platform is laid on top in the manner described above. Now you can put the stove back in its place and begin making the brick screen.

If the basis of the floor in the steam room is concrete screed on the ground, preparing the base will not require much effort. To do this, mark out the area for the stove and brickwork, cover it with two layers of roofing felt so that the edges of the waterproofing protrude 10 cm beyond the perimeter. The roofing felt sheets are glued together with bitumen mastic. Next, lay out the brick base and allow it to dry completely.

Making the solution

Most often, when lining a furnace, a solution of clay and sand is used in a ratio of 1:2. Many home craftsmen recommend the following proportions for mixing: 4 parts clay, 8 parts sifted sand and 1 part water. It is advisable to take clay from a depth of 1.5-2 m, clean, without various impurities. In order for the clay to acquire the desired viscosity, it must be soaked in water for 2-3 days and then rubbed through a sieve. If this is not done, small pebbles or plant debris may end up in the solution, which will not only complicate the laying process, but will also negatively affect the strength of the structure.

The following solution is also used for masonry: 1 part clay, 1 part sand and 100 g of solution per bucket table salt. The clay must be pre-soaked in water and the sand must be sifted. When kneading, water is added in small portions so that the mixture does not become too liquid. Ready solution holds its shape well, does not stick to the trowel, and easily slides off the walls of the container.

Clay mortar mixed with fireclay powder and cement has excellent qualities. To prepare it, take 60% of the total mass of clay, 35% fireclay powder and at least 10% cement. If you do not want to select the proportions for the solution, use a ready-made masonry mixture, which only needs to be diluted with water until desired consistency. The solution should be mixed in small portions so that it does not have time to dry out before application.

Clay mortar for masonry - photo

Furnace lining technology

Step 1. All bricks intended for lining the furnace are soaked in a large container of water for 30-40 minutes, and markings for the masonry begin.

If you have little experience in such matters, you can pull the threads plumb and secure them with nails. Another way: to wooden floor attach on both sides of the stove vertical bars. It is very convenient to fix them using spacers made from scraps of timber. A thin cord or fishing line is pulled between the posts along the marking line at a height of 70 mm from the floor. Now, when laying bricks, you will immediately be guided by the fishing line, and the row will lie smoothly. The only inconvenience is that the line will have to be constantly raised for each new row.

Step 2. Knead a small amount of solution, about half a bucket. When you use it, you will be able to more accurately determine how much mixture you will need for further work.

Step 3. To avoid having to clean the mortar from the heater, you can wrap it up plastic film, securing the edges with tape.

Work begins from the corner: they take a whole brick and lay it flat along the marked line on the mortar. This method is called “half a brick” and is considered the most convenient for lining sauna stove. You can also lay bricks on edge (many do this to save building material), but then the thickness of the screen will be smaller, and its effectiveness will noticeably decrease. Each brick is leveled along the line, if necessary, upset with a mallet or trowel, and the excess mortar is immediately removed. All seams must be filled with the mixture and have the same thickness - about 5-7 mm. Lay out the row to the end along the entire perimeter.

Step 4. From the second row, the masonry is reinforced with reinforcing mesh. To do this, it is cut into strips 5 cm wide and laid on top along the row.

At the corners of the masonry, strips can be tied with a piece of thin wire to give additional strength to the reinforcing layer. Mortar is applied to the mesh and bricks are laid out. The second row starts from the same corner as the first, but they take half of it rather than a whole brick. This is necessary to bandage the seams and strengthen the masonry.

Step 5. In the third row, it is necessary to make four holes for air circulation - two on opposite sides of the screen. The easiest way is to lay half of it instead of a whole brick, departing 5-7 cm from the previous one. Next brick laid at the same distance, and you get 2 small identical gaps in the masonry. Then there is continuous masonry to the opposite side, where again gaps are left between the bricks.

Step 6. The next 5-6 rows are laid out completely, with the obligatory dressing of the seams. Each row is checked with a level both vertically and horizontally so that the screen does not move to the side. Remove excess mortar with a trowel and control the thickness of the seams. The unevenness of the seams is very clearly visible on the finished masonry, and it will not be possible to eliminate such a defect later.

At the level of the ash pit and firebox, on the side of the hinges, the masonry should not interfere with the doors opening. To do this, bricks are first laid without mortar and their location is verified by moving the doors. The opening is covered from above with two pieces of steel angle, placing them on the outer and inner parts of the masonry.

Step 7 In the second row from the top of the screen, 4 more holes should be made using the method described above. This arrangement of holes will ensure high-quality circulation of air masses - cold air will be drawn in from below, and heated air will come out from above.

The number and location of convection holes largely depends on the type of oven. For very powerful models, it is recommended to use lattice rather than solid masonry, with gaps between bricks of up to 10 cm.

There is a very simple way to regulate heat exchange in a steam room using such holes. During the laying process, several 250x70 mm openings are made in the screen. After the work is completed, bricks are inserted into these openings. When you need to quickly heat the steam room, the bricks are removed and the hot air from the stove is well distributed throughout the room. As soon as the temperature has risen to the desired level, the openings are closed again and heat transfer slows down.

Step 8. The masonry is usually completed at the surface level of the slab, although in some cases it is raised to the ceiling, covering the chimney. The brick should not come into close contact with either the wooden walls or the ceiling; there must be a small gap between the surfaces.

While the mortar is still wet, it is necessary to fill out the joints so that the appearance is neat and attractive. The masonry should dry at a stable temperature; heating the stove at this time is not recommended.

Advice. If you purchased a heater with a convection casing, you will have to remove it, since after covering the casing, the brick screen will perform the functions of the casing.

For round stoves the screen is also made round. There are no particular differences in the masonry process, although placing bricks in a circle is a little more difficult than in a straight line. Convection holes are located symmetrically on both sides of the masonry. It is very important to maintain the same distance between the stove and the screen over the entire height of the masonry.

To give the bricks a more even and rich color, it is recommended to treat the surface of the masonry with a brush with stiff bristles dipped in a solution laundry soap. You need to rub quite intensively, removing the smallest particles of mortar from the surface of the bricks, and then rinse everything with clean water.

How to cover a heater with an external firebox

A sauna stove is not always located entirely in the steam room; very often its firebox goes into the dressing room or onto the street. In this case, the brick lining is done a little differently.

Step 1. Determine the location of the furnace and make a foundation for it using the technology described above.

When concrete base When it dries, they place a stove on it and mark the exit for the firebox on the wall. Since the hole should be larger than the firebox, the marking perimeter is increased on each side by about 20-25 cm.

More precise parameters of the opening for the firebox should be indicated by the manufacturer in the stove passport. For example, for some models, the hole in the wall should be 50 cm larger vertically and 25 cm larger on the sides.

Step 2. Using a grinder, cut a through hole in the wall and clear the opening of debris and dust.

To check the correct location of the structure, bring in the stove and temporarily install it on the prepared base. If the body is level and the firebox does not protrude too much beyond the wall, you can begin insulating the opening and laying bricks.

Step 3. The stove is set aside again, and material for insulating the walls is prepared. Here you will need basalt cardboard, ceramic fabric, aluminum foil and sheets of mineralite - a modern non-flammable material that does not emit harmful substances. Basalt cardboard is cut into wide strips and secured to the walls of the opening with a stapler along the entire perimeter. The edges of the material are wrapped on the walls on both sides and also secured. The next layer is ceramic fabric, and on top is foil.

Step 4. Take a sheet of mineralite and cut a hole in it for the firebox exactly to size. The same hole is made in the second sheet, after which both sheets are installed from the inside of the steam room to the opening. The material is attached to wooden walls with self-tapping screws.

The photo shows a mineralite sheet secured with screws

Step 5. The brick is soaked in water and a mortar for masonry is prepared. Start working with outside: lay out the first row in half a brick, the outermost bricks can be placed across the row, forming small decorative protrusions. In the second row under the ash pan you need to leave small hole for air flow. A gap of 2-3 cm is left between the brick and the metal body of the firebox, so the metal will not overheat and burn out, and the masonry will also last longer.

Step 6. When the masonry on both sides of the opening is slightly above the firebox, you need to lay two pieces of steel angle on top so that they do not touch the metal surface. Bricks are placed on the corners and the construction of the wall continues.

Step 7 Excess foil and cardboard are cut off and the gap formed around the perimeter is filled basalt wool. The cotton wool is carefully compacted so that it does not come out during the finishing of the walls.

Step 8 They go into the steam room and begin lining the stove. To do this, first install the stove on the base and connect the chimney. Next, a masonry line is marked along the perimeter of the furnace and a brick screen is erected according to the method described above.

When to do full and partial lining

Furnaces have different powers and differ in dimensions, therefore the level of radiation from metal walls varies. If the heater gets very hot and it is uncomfortable to be in the steam room, it must be completely covered and the screen must be solid. If you only want to increase the heat capacity of the stove body, it is enough to cover the heater from the sides and back, leaving the front part open. If there is not enough space in the steam room and someone often gets burned on the stove, it is best to make latticework around the perimeter of the heater.

To more accurately determine whether you need such a screen, try making dry temporary masonry. To do this, around the heater, retreating the required distance, lay the brick directly on the floor in rows without mortar. Lay it in half a brick, maybe with small gaps. Leave the oven open at the front. The most important thing is to carefully align the rows, otherwise the masonry will collapse.

Having laid out the bricks to the top of the stove, heat the bathhouse and compare your sensations. If the heat has become noticeably milder, and being in the steam room is much more comfortable, then a screen made of bricks is definitely needed.

Of course, this method can only be temporary, as an experiment. For reliable and durable masonry you need a solid foundation and, of course, binder solution. Only masonry done in accordance with all the rules can provide the required effect and safety for bathhouse visitors.

Video - How to cover a metal stove with bricks

Video - Lining a Teklar furnace with bricks

Iron stoves are easy to use, easy to install, and inexpensive. But they have the ability to heat up quickly and cool down quickly. In some cases, this is a disadvantage. Then the stove is lined, and this can be an excellent and inexpensive solution to avoid replacing an already existing furnace. But if you are not a professional, it arises practical question: how to line an iron stove with bricks?

Iron stoves are easy to use, easy to install, and inexpensive. But they heat up quickly and cool down quickly. If you line the stove with brick, this will be an excellent and inexpensive solution.

Selection of materials and tools

How to properly line a stove with bricks? First you need to decide on the choice of materials. You cannot work with any brick. To line the stove correctly, you need a special brick, which is called solid or refractory. You have a choice between plain red brick with smooth surfaces and brick with decorative properties. That is, a brick with one textured side, which will not only allow for a high-quality coating of the iron stove, but will also add zest to the interior of the room in which the stove is located. Such a brick is designed for prolonged high temperatures, it does not deform and meets the requirements that we want to obtain in in this case. How to work depends on the situation.

In order to line an iron stove with bricks, you first need to do preparatory work. A metal stove lined with bricks must have good foundation. This is a fairly heavy structure and must be firmly attached.

There can also be several types of solution. Fireclay clay is added to ordinary cement; it is sold in construction stores in powder form. Chamotte is a fireproof clay, and it is needed to give the same properties to our solution. An example of a mixture of Russian stove masonry: 1 part cement, 4 parts sifted dry sand, 1 part soaked clay powder and water. Some stove makers make a solution from a mixture of clay and sand. In this option, the experience of the stove maker is important to determine the quality of the clay and the suitability of the sand. We need mortar material medium plasticity, which, when dried, will not crack, but will firmly bind the bricks together and will not collapse when high temperature.

Another option is dry adhesive mixtures for porcelain tiles. Suitable cement-sand mixture next to useful supplements, which increase such properties of a conventional solution as resistance to temperature fluctuations and adhesion strength.

To properly line the stove, you need professional tools:

• Master OK;
• hammer-pick;
• plumb line;
• jointing;
• rule;
• cord-order;
• metal corner;
• asbestos cardboard;
• thin metal sheet;
• roulette;
• level.

Preparation for installation

Before work, be sure to examine the strength of the place where the lining will be located. Especially if the stove we need to line is large. The weight of one brick is 3.5 kg. The total weight of the furnace without foundation can be up to 800 kg. Calculate whether additional fortifications are needed. If you have doubts that the foundation will support the weight of your bricks, make a separate foundation.

Then start marking out the plan for the future masonry. The main thing in this is what will be the distance between the iron wall of the furnace and the bricks.

Advantages of a brick “casing”
1. The heat from the stove is uniform.
2. Stones warm up faster.
3. The heat accumulated by bricks lasts longer,
4. The stove becomes safer.

It can vary from 1 to 10 cm. If it is placed tightly, the metal will overheat and because of this the service life will decrease. With a large gap, the brick wall will heat up for a long time, which automatically extends the duration of the firebox. Maintaining the required distance from the stove, you need to mark the outline of the future masonry. If the floor is wooden, thin sheets of metal are nailed over the entire area so that they cover the marked area. Asbestos cardboard is laid on top. It will ensure fire safety because it does not burn, retains its heat-insulating properties for a long time and, which is very important, does not emit any harmful substances when heated in the air. If the floor on which the stove is located is concrete, then there is no need to add anything additional.

Furnace lining

The distance from the brick to the stove can be from 1 to 10 cm. This is necessary so that the metal of the stove lasts longer.

Immediately before laying, bricks should be soaked in water (from 2-3 to 30 minutes), because dry brick draws moisture from the mortar and this worsens the “masonry” properties, the seam becomes looser and weaker. You need to lay out the first row, maintaining the given contour. The optimal thickness of the masonry itself is half a brick. In the second row, two holes must be left on each wall, with a total width of half a brick for normal air circulation between metal surface ovens and brickwork. To do this, the brick is placed on its end, and two windows are obtained. 4 such holes are enough for the wall. The thickness of the seam should be 3-5 mm. The sutures are constantly ligated. At the door level, an opening of such width and height is necessary that in the future it will be convenient to “communicate” with the firebox. On top of this door opening are placed metal corners. One on the outside of the wall, the other on the inside, to evenly distribute the weight of subsequent brick rows.

To properly line the stove, follow several rules:
1. According to fire safety standards, the stove must be located at a distance of at least 30 centimeters from the walls.
2. Make masonry only with high-quality bricks.
3. Wet the brick before work.
4. Be sure to use a plumb line while working.
5. Check the parallelism of each row with a building level;
6. You need to start laying out the next row after the first one is completely completed.

The masonry can be completed at the level of your stove, for the given functionality (uniform heating; warm, not hot air; much longer heat retention, protection from accidental burns) this is enough. Can be placed higher. How and what the top of your trim will be is up to you to decide, based purely on your aesthetic views, desires and capabilities. In this case, it is also necessary to leave in the upper part of the masonry ventilation holes, the same as in the bottom. And if this is a sauna stove, then access to the heater must be provided.

The final touch

After a day, during which your new stove dries, you can begin to restore its beauty. You can quickly remove excess solution using a drill with a brush attachment. And the remaining stains, dirt and dust are washed off perfectly soapy water. Thus, the problem of how to line an iron stove with bricks was solved by adding new element decor for your room.

Additional option

There are situations when, when lining an iron stove with bricks, it is impossible to use conventional masonry with mortar. For example, if the furnace metal is short-lived and access to the furnace will often be needed for repairs. It's a shame to break the masonry. In this case, it is possible to line the stove with a wall of bricks “dry”, without any mortar at all. It should be noted that the properties of such a wall are not much inferior to conventional mortar masonry.

Many of us have stoves in our homes. Metal heating structures are most common, as they have many advantages over units made of brick and other materials.

Firstly, metal has greater thermal conductivity and, accordingly, warms up faster.

Secondly, the prices for such stoves are much lower than for heating structures made from other materials. However, there are disadvantages to metal stoves also available:

• they cool down as quickly as they warm up;
• When heated, the metal casing releases infrared radiation, which has harmful effects on people in the room.

However, there is a way to eliminate these shortcomings - you just need to line the stove with bricks.

Required Tools

• spatula (for applying the solution);
• pickaxe (it is needed in order to separate the required part from the brick);
• hammer (the purpose is the same as a pickaxe);
• jointing (to hide the seam);
• plumb line (ensures that the building stands at a right angle);
• building level (they are used to check whether the horizontal rows are straight or crooked);
• shovel and container for making and mixing the solution;
• mooring cord (controls the evenness of the rows);
• ordering (has two components: a special rail, which allows you to evenly line the stove with bricks, and a holder that secures the rail).

The choice of building materials should be approached with maximum care and responsibility, since the comfort and safety presence of people in the room.

If you decide, first of all, you need to purchase a brick. It must be of high quality and have the same characteristics as fullness. You can choose a material with or without a relief image. In this matter you can proceed from your own personal aesthetic preferences. A brick with a pattern will serve decorative element. The amount of material must be determined in according to the size of the stove. It is necessary to calculate all proportions and parameters, it is also worth considering the length and width of the seams.

Read also: Brazier made from car rims

To line the stove we need a masonry mixture High Quality. It should not crack when dried and at high temperatures. You can use ready-made refractory compounds, which are usually sold in powder form. They can be purchased in specialized stores. The finished composition will need to be mixed with water in the proportions indicated in the instructions.

However . For this will be required: clay of a certain fat content, sand and water. They will need to be mixed in certain proportions (the proportions must be selected yourself by conducting certain experiments).

It is also optional, but it is desirable to have such additional materials , like (it is placed under the stove itself), metal strips and corners (they are needed when completely lining the stove)

Cladding process

Often, when installing, a heat-resistant foundation is prepared in advance (brick is most often used). However, if there is no base, it is quite possible to make it yourself. Brick or other heat-resistant material should be laid under the stove. in several rows. Also desirable lay roofing felt.

How to line a stove at home with your own hands?

Facing bricks can be laid in the same way as regular bricks; the only difference is that the first one also has a decorative function. To ensure that the furnace lining is safe, we have formulated some rules:

• The seam thickness should be equal to 5 millimeters.
• Between the furnace body and the heat shield there must be the gap is about 4-5 centimeters.
• It is necessary to carefully remove all excess solution from the walls.
• The gap between brick rows should be approximately 3 millimeters, otherwise masonry mortar will have a negative impact.
• Seams in adjacent rows should never match.