Get rid of air humidity in the apartment. How to get rid of dampness in an apartment

With the onset of the cold season, many are faced with a rather unpleasant, but very common problem - high humidity. You may notice that the walls have become damp and the windows are fogging up. Of course, these are additional concerns. But if you know some tricks, you will forget about such a problem as high humidity in the apartment. Let's talk about how to solve this problem.

Why is humidity rising?

First you need to find the reason for the increase in humidity in the apartment.

  • Walls. If you notice that the walls in your apartment have become noticeably damp, it means that the insulation in your home was not done at the proper level. Experts say that during the construction of a house, care must be taken to isolate the walls from the foundation. This good advice For everyone who builds their own house, use the most common roofing felt for insulation. This option will be optimal in quality and price.
  • Floor. Floor moisture is also a common problem. This is especially noticeable, of course, for those who live on the first floor. The moisture content of the floor indicates that the foundation was not made properly. required height. This is another piece of advice for builders - raise the foundation to 60 cm, or even more. This way you will protect yourself from problems with high humidity.
  • Ventilate. Be sure to get into the habit of fully ventilating your apartment in any weather. There is no need to open the windows all day - half an hour a day is enough. For example, you can ventilate your apartment before going to bed - fresh air will not only resist humidity, but will also contribute to favorable sound sleep.
  • Heat properly. Often the cause of humidity is improper heating in the apartment. So, you should make sure that each room is heated as evenly as possible. Remember your school physics course: warm air, moving into a room with a lower temperature, turns into settling condensate, that is, into moisture.
  • Dry laundry in a ventilated area. If you neglect it simple rule, you are provided with high humidity in the room - the water from the laundry will evaporate and settle again. Therefore, open the windows in the room to dry clothes.
  • Preventive measures. Take potassium permanganate and make a not too concentrated solution. Wipe all cabinets with a cloth soaked in this solution. Then place a small bag of coffee beans in your linen closet or drawer. All these measures will prevent the occurrence of troubles such as mold or mildew.

How to get rid of fungus on walls

  1. First, inspect the window sills and walls to see if there are any cracks. Even if you find the slightest crack, repair it immediately.
  2. Secondly, check the operation of the ventilation. The pull must be strong enough.
  3. Thirdly, arm yourself with a spatula and remove all the plaster from the affected wall, clean it down to the concrete.
  4. Fourthly, install heating devices to properly dry the walls.
  5. Fifth, purchase a specialized antiseptic and apply it to the wall.
  6. Finally, repeat the process after six hours, washing the wall, drying it and treating it with an antiseptic. In a day you can finish the room.

If you notice that condensation has appeared on the windows in your apartment, start taking measures to eliminate it. First, you must measure the humidity level with a special device. If this is a problem (you can say this with confidence if the level is more than 40-43%), then follow the tips described above. Adjust the heating, check the ventilation draft. Next you need to check the hood, also pay attention to the window seams. One way or another, the main recommendation remains ventilation - even in winter, in frosty weather, open the windows for 30 minutes. And then you will forget about the high humidity in the apartment.

Constant problems with hair styling, deterioration wooden furniture, new books and notebooks are literally rotting just yesterday, and mold has even appeared on the wallpaper? The reason for this is high humidity in the apartment. Dampness in your home can cause not only damaged furniture and wallpaper, but also chronic diseases lungs, which are very difficult to cure. The immune system works worse in conditions of humidity above normal than in normal conditions , and even a common cold can turn into a huge problem with a number of ensuing complications. Fungal organisms, which multiply much more quickly in humid air, can cause many skin diseases

First of all, find out what the reason is increased dampness in the apartment. Among the most common cases are:

  • Poor ventilation. Sometimes it's not there at all.
  • Miscalculations and shortcomings in the design of the house itself and during its construction.
  • Constant flooding of the apartment from neighbors above.
  • Use of cheap and low-quality building materials when renovating an apartment. Cheap suspended ceiling, vinyl wallpaper, bad plastic windows, which do not allow moisture to pass through, but rather accumulate it, will soon turn your apartment into a sauna.
  • During the cold season, the temperature in the apartment itself is low. We advise you to always heat your room in winter, even if you do not live in it permanently, since one winter for an unheated room is enough to disrupt the usual moisture circulation for a long time.
  • Flooded basement. In this case, moisture rises, especially if you live on the first floors of the room. If there is poor ventilation in the room, the dampness will go even higher.
  • Water pipes, if they are closed in boxes, can often leak.
  • Interwall seams left without appropriate treatment.

Some of these problems should be addressed by the home maintenance staff, and if you notice any of the above, contact the appropriate services.

Other reasons increased concentration The flags in the apartment depend on us.

This is primarily laundry, which we often hang in the apartment itself after washing, when there is no room on the balcony. Moreover, if there is already too much moisture in the house, things will not dry in a few days. They can even grow fungus, so we advise you to approach the issue of hanging laundry in the house more carefully and thoughtfully.

Irrational placement of household appliances around the house is also a cause of increased dampness. For example, a hood in the kitchen, if there is one of course, which is also important, should neutralize steam from kettles and pots throughout the house, but its range of action is limited. If you boil water in another room, the result will soon be noticeable in the form of mold on the wallpaper.

But it often happens that we have to eliminate the problem (or its harmful consequences) ourselves. To do this, first of all you need to determine where moisture is entering your home. A small piece of glass will do for this. Lean it against the surface of the wall. If after some time there is moisture on it, it means it is penetrating the house from the outside. In another case, moisture is contained in the walls of the house themselves.

Ways to get rid of dampness

  • Buy a dehumidifier. Depending on the power and energy consumption, the price of the equipment will also change. You can buy it at any hardware store. We recommend choosing a dehumidifier that has a humidity sensor. On it you can adjust the heating temperature of the room depending on the amount of moisture in the house to avoid drying out the air in the apartment. If the unit is powerful, it is enough to turn it on just a couple of times a week, and a reduction in the amount of moisture is guaranteed.

  • Heat your apartment from time to time. In the case of high humidity, this necessary measure. Of course, the rooms should not be heated all year round, and must be excluded sharp changes temperatures, but it is heating that destroys a lot of fungi and bacteria that spread diseases.
  • A necessary condition for the long-term effect of a dehumidifier and regular heating of rooms with high humidity is a constant check of pipes, plumbing and radiators for leaks. Drying up puddles under pipes that will leak again tomorrow, you can spend a fortune on gas and electricity. If there are leaks, call a specialist.
  • Regular ventilation is an important condition for combating high humidity. If you are afraid of drafts, try special windows with a micro-ventilation system.

  • Older people are also advised to use salt and sugar. They remove moisture perfectly, just place plates of salt around the apartment - and certain part moisture will go away. Of course, you won’t get the same effect as from a dehumidifier, but you will have a little more time to raise funds for major repairs.
  • Insulating the building, sealing the seams between the panels - if the house is panel - and covering the walls with thermal insulation - is guaranteed to remove moisture from the house.

Choose carefully houseplants. By watering tropical plants abundantly, for example, you thereby increase the humidity in the apartment, since a certain amount of moisture evaporates. The best choice is cacti, they absorb moisture from the air and need very little watering. By doing this, you will help yourself remove excess dampness.

If you still decide to do it in the apartment major renovation, pay attention to materials with mineral base. They do not create a greenhouse effect, while most moisture is absorbed. Materials behave completely differently latex based, the use of which in an apartment with high humidity is not recommended. Be careful when choosing windows. In the cold season, they can fog up, collecting moisture on the surface, which also negatively affects the overall microclimate of the apartment.

How to remove the smell of dampness from your home?

  • Ventilate the room as often as possible - best in warm and dry weather, when there is no rain or other precipitation.
  • Take the time to check and clean the ventilation system, check the draft, and be sure to inspect all plumbing fixtures for leaks.
  • How more economical option dehumidifier - installation of air conditioning. Among the functions there should also be air drying, although not so powerful.
  • Use a hood while cooking, this is guaranteed to reduce the presence of excess moisture in the house.
  • During the cold season, an additional heater will also help. This is especially suitable for cold apartments.

We hope that our tips on how to overcome dampness in an apartment will help you. Finally, it is worth saying that if you think that in this case you can get by a simple air freshener air, airing it once every few days, or placing vessels with salt around the house - you will not get any effect. You need to approach this issue seriously, otherwise you risk not only the improvement of your apartment, but also the health of your relatives and loved ones.

For full life, a person needs air with an optimal level of humidity. There are often cases when this level rises in the bathroom, kitchen, living room or vestibule. The owners are clutching their heads, not knowing how to get rid of the smell of dampness and high humidity that has appeared. In addition to the fact that the unpleasant aroma permeates clothes and wooden elements decor, mold appears on the walls, which spoils the whole impression. To deal with the problem in short time, it is necessary to adhere to practical recommendations.

Optimal humidity level

It is generally accepted that a living space should have a humidity level that ranges from 50-60%, not higher. To measure the microclimate, you need to use a device called a hygrometer. In the summer, it is possible to reduce the humidity level to 35-40%, this feature achieved for obvious reasons.

It is known that human body It tolerates both excessively humid and dry climates equally poorly. People who use split systems should be extremely careful. The air conditioner sucks in moisture, causing the optimum reading to drop. However, if you often dry clothes in a living room and not on the balcony, the split system will become a lifesaver.

Causes of high humidity

  1. High humidity occurs for many reasons, one of which is considered to be the lack of both natural and artificial ventilation. If there is air circulation, then it’s worth checking how well it works.
  2. There are often cases when humidity rises above acceptable limits due to the fact that neighbors living above flood the apartment from below. Dampness accumulates in corners and cracks, causing mold to appear.
  3. Today, not every developer can be called conscientious. Some save on material, others hire workers with insufficient qualifications. Increased humidity appears due to poorly sealed seams on the street part of the wall.
  4. If we talk about the house, in most cases the basement often floods due to large quantity groundwater. From the lower tier, moisture rises to the first and second floors, accompanied by an unpleasant odor.
  5. The modern design of many living spaces involves concealment. sewer pipes various decorative panels. For this reason, if a water leak occurs, the owner cannot fix it in time.

Consequences of high humidity

Important attention must be paid to health, which deteriorates due to high humidity.

  1. In such conditions, the human body is unable to cope with even the most banal cold syndromes, what can we say about serious diseases. If you are constantly and for a long time in a humid environment, a common cold can develop into something more.
  2. In addition to weakening the immune system, a humid microclimate causes allergies, eczema, skin rashes, insomnia, runny nose, pain in muscles and joints. Also, high humidity contributes to the development of apathy, general fatigue, and depression.
  3. There are often cases when the emerging fungus becomes the cause of the development of chronic diseases. Elderly people and children are most susceptible to such reactions. In the first category, the protective functions of the body do not work fully; in the second category, the body is not yet fully formed.
  4. If air humidity exceeds optimal limits, a pungent and unpleasant smell of mold develops in the apartment. The stench eats into furniture upholstery, soft floor coverings, clothes, towels, bed sheets, mattress and pillow.
  5. Due to increased humidity, the seams in the room turn black, indicating the development of mold. With each passing day, the fungus affects an increasingly larger surface, walls, ceilings, cabinets, window frames etc.
  6. If high humidity persists long time, accelerated spoilage of food products (bakery products, vegetables, fruits, flour, cereals and legumes) begins.

  1. Air Dryer. The most the best option To combat high humidity, it is common to use a dehumidifier. The pricing policy depends on the specific manufacturer, the power of the unit and its model. You can purchase the device in “Everything for the Home” stores, as well as in electronics hypermarkets. It is worth clarifying that the more productive the unit, the faster it will cope with high humidity. If possible, purchase a device with a regulator and a table that displays the dampness level. This feature will allow you to save on electricity and not dry out the air.
  2. Heating radiators. Get rid of excessive moisture indoors can be done using heating radiators. Batteries are present in every apartment, but they cannot always be used (with the exception of the summer-spring period). If you notice that dampness persists for a long time, periodically heat the room. During a peculiar heat treatment the fungus dies, the air becomes much drier. Turn on the heating only in the cold season, avoid sudden changes temperature regime, which causes the windows to sweat.
  3. Fresh air. It is known that a humid environment is afraid fresh air, but only if ventilation does not occur in cloudy and rainy weather. Make it a habit to open the windows 3 times a day, leave them for a quarter of an hour, as long as possible. If possible, keep the window open constantly, closing it only in case of precipitation outside. To make ventilation much more efficient, install plastic windows that open upward (micro-ventilation). Such a move will eliminate the possibility of drafts and remove moisture.
  4. Sugar and salt. The listed products absorb moisture well, but, as a rule, they are used extremely rarely. Agree, it’s not very convenient to hold a five-kilogram bag with a loose composition in the middle of the room, even in an open state. This option is useful in the fight against humidity in small rooms, such as a pantry, vestibule, and bathroom. It is enough to pour salt or sugar into a basin, then take it indoors, do not forget to stir periodically.

Preventive actions

  1. Inspect sewer pipes and heating radiators to find out if there is a leak. If this happens, call a technician or fix the problem yourself.
  2. If it is sunny and warm outside, ventilate the room constantly. Don't sit in the apartment with closed windows for a long time.
  3. The air conditioner absorbs some of the moisture from the room. In addition, the split system eliminates the smell of dampness and prevents mold from affecting larger areas.
  4. Equip your kitchen with a hood. Turn it on every time you cook, especially if you prefer to boil or stew food.
  5. Check traction ventilation system, clean it of dust and foreign debris. Perhaps ventilation is the cause of the unpleasant odor.
  6. Choose indoor plants that don't need a lot of watering. Cactus is considered the most optimal; place 3 types in each room with a suffocating smell.
  7. It is known that natural materials absorb from excess moisture. During cosmetic repairs, give preference to products of this kind; avoid synthetics.
  8. Look at absorbent products that absorb excess moisture. Great option The “STOP moisture” product is used; it can be purchased at any hardware store.
  9. IN winter time year, install an additional heating radiator in the apartment or get by with the simplest “Veterok” blower.
  10. If possible, dry your laundry on the loggia or balcony. Otherwise, keep the windows open throughout the drying process (important for warm and sunny weather).

It is quite difficult to get rid of high humidity in an apartment if you do not have knowledge regarding the available methods. Ventilate the room more often, install an air conditioner, and heat the apartment. Buy a dehumidifier and run it at least 4 times a week.

Video: the dangers of high air humidity in apartments

The humidity level in the house plays a role vital role in the formation of a microclimate, providing a healthy and comfortable atmosphere, or, conversely, promoting the development of pathogenic microorganisms, the growth of mold, the proliferation of dust mites that cause allergies, the occurrence unpleasant odors and discomfort. An increased level of humidity in building structures, elements and materials, a reduced or absent possibility for natural or forced drying leads to permanent or temporary accumulation of moisture in the thickness or on the surfaces of materials, which can increase their thermal conductivity, accelerate corrosion or biological destruction.
Insufficient humidity levels in the house also lead to discomfort in the internal atmosphere of the house.

Optimal level relative humidity Humidity in a house is considered to be between 30 and 50%. Relative humidity is determined by the ratio of the amount of water vapor in the air to its maximum possible content at a given temperature. The higher the air temperature, the more water vapor it can contain. The temperature at which the air cannot contain any additional water vapor is called the "dew point". Low level relative humidity ensures maximum comfort for humans, does not contribute to the development of potentially harmful microorganisms (dust mites) and ensures the safety of building structures and materials.

Signs of high humidity in the house.

Unpleasant odors. The intensity of odors in a room increases with increasing humidity. An increase in household odors may indicate an increase in humidity in the room atmosphere. A musty smell can signal the growth of mold, mildew, or rot.

Feeling damp. Indicates an increase in humidity and poor ventilation of the room.

Condensation, formation of frost and ice on cold surfaces. Condensation, frost, ice on cold surfaces indicate excess moisture in the room and the presence of insufficient insulation of the external contour of the building and possible leaks warm air through the cracks.

Changes in color, texture and moisture content of material surfaces. Warping, swelling, deformation, cracking, blistering, crumbling, peeling, discoloration, darkening, the appearance of dark or colored spots or veins on the surfaces of materials may indicate increased humidity in the room. The growth of mold or mildew is accompanied by the appearance of spots of white, orange, green, brown, blue or black. Intensive reproduction of fungi begins at a relative humidity of 70%.

The formation of bubbles and paint cracks indicates capillary pressure of moisture in porous structures. The precipitation of salts and powdery substances on concrete surfaces is an indicator of the presence of moisture that has evaporated from the surface of the concrete. The formation of lamellar chips on the surface of concrete indicates the freezing of excess moisture in the thickness of the material.

Biological destruction of wood. Rot and decay wooden structures indicates the constant damaging effects of moisture, which creates optimal conditions for the growth and reproduction of wood-destroying microorganisms. During biological destruction, wood changes its color, becomes loose and soft, which can lead to damage to the integrity of wooden structures under load.

Wet pipes.“Sweating” cold pipes are a sign of high humidity in the house. Current cold water significantly cools the surfaces of pipes on which excess moisture condenses.

Hygrometer readings. If the relative humidity in your home exceeds 50%, it may indicate a moisture problem. However, even a low level of humidity in the atmosphere of the house does not guarantee the absence of problems with excess humidity in designs or separate rooms(basements, attics, etc.).

Sources of high humidity in the house.

  1. Interstitial moisture. Porous building materials such as wood, concrete and others contain a certain amount of moisture located in the structure of the material. Moisture from materials can, under suitable conditions (the absence of vapor-proof barriers, an increase in the temperature of the material, the presence of a difference in water vapor pressure), begin to evaporate into the internal atmosphere of the house, increasing the humidity level. The volume of seasonal evaporation from building materials can reach from 3 to 8 liters of water per day. Wet building materials evaporate an average of up to 5 liters of water per day into the internal environment of a newly built or renovated house.
  1. Trunk moisture. Moisture can enter the house in the form of rain, snow or groundwater, water supply and sewerage leaks, water storage tanks, seeping through leaks in moisture-insulating media (roofing, walls, waterproofing, pipes, shut-off fittings, containers).
  1. Capillary moisture. Capillary moisture enters the house through microscopic communicating pores of materials such as concrete, brick, wood from the external humid environment in the absence of waterproofing layers or layers that break the capillaries. Even the presence of a foundation slab is not an obstacle to moisture entering the house from the ground, if under the slab there is no layer of waterproofing and a granular mineral layer (coarse sand, crushed stone, gravel) that breaks the soil capillary network. The amount of moisture entering a house when the foundation waterproofing is damaged can be quite significant - up to 50 liters of water per day.
  1. Moisture vapor transfer through porous materials. Due to pressure differences, water vapor can penetrate porous materials such as cellular concrete or tree. Both excess vapor transfer during outside-in steam transfer, for example, in hot and humid climates, and insufficient or blocked inside-out steam transfer can contribute to an increase in humidity. Significant moistening of building structures occurs when moisture evaporates from the uninsulated soil under the house, especially in the absence of sufficient ventilation of the underground space.
  1. Moisture transfer with air flow. Air flows through cracks in building structures, on unsealed sections of media, around communications passing through walls and ceilings or open openings, windows or doors are capable of transferring saturated water vapor from the street. Up to 98% of all moisture enters the house with air flows. All other paths account for no more than 2% of the volume of moisture in the house. An uncontrolled influx of cold winter air containing a reduced amount of moisture can lead to the opposite effect: drying out the air in the room. Insufficient or absent exhaust ventilation helps increase the humidity level in the house. Moisture transfer with ventilation air flows allows you to quickly and effectively reduce the level of humidity in the house.
  1. The human factor in the formation of moisture inside the house. A person himself evaporates a sufficient amount of moisture into the internal environment of a living space through breathing and sweating. A family of 3-4 people evaporates up to 200 ml of moisture per hour (4.8 liters in 24 hours). A lot of moisture is formed during economic, household and hygienic activities. When wet cleaning, up to 150 ml of moisture evaporates from square meter area. Cooking food for a family of 3-4 people during the day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and washing dishes leads to the evaporation of up to 3 liters of moisture. Cooking with gas increases the amount of moisture by another 1 liter. Drying clothes indoors results in the evaporation of 4 to 6 liters of moisture. In addition to increasing the humidity in the house, drying clothes indoors leads to evaporation of detergent residues and an increase in lint in the air, which can lead to the provocation of allergic diseases. When taking a shower, 100 ml of moisture evaporates every 5 minutes. An increase in humidity in the house is caused by cooking in dishes without lids, a significant number of live plants in pots, open aquariums, and the use of air humidifiers.

From inside or outside? Capillary test. To determine the external or internal source of the formation of excess humidity and dampness on the walls or floor, a capillary test is performed:

  1. Find an area of ​​damp wall or floor.
  2. Dry it thoroughly using wipes and a hair dryer.
  3. Cover the area to be examined with a sheet of vapor-proof plastic or film.
  4. Carefully adhere the material to the surface with waterproof plumbing tape.
  5. After 2-3 days, examine the sheet of plastic and the surface of the wall or floor underneath it. If moisture appears under the leaf, this means the capillary origin of the incoming moisture through building construction. If moisture condenses on the outer surface of the plastic, the source of increased humidity is located indoors. If moisture is detected both under the leaf and on the leaf, this may mean that there are two ways of moisture entering at the same time.

Options for solving problems with excess humidity in the house.

Foundation and basement.

You can reduce the likelihood of moisture entering by capillary through the foundation in the following ways: drainage surface waters, lowering the groundwater level and waterproofing foundations and underground structures of the building.

The set of activities includes:

  1. Installation of a system for collecting precipitation from the roof and discharging it to storm drainage. Preferred closed system drainpipes with the supply of precipitation directly into the storm sewer, without an intermediate outflow of collected water onto the blind area or soil. At open system Drainage trays are installed on top of the blind area. If there is a system for collecting and draining precipitation from the roof, it must be regularly cleaned of leaves and other debris that can impede its operation.
  2. Device ground slope away from the building. The minimum recommended slope width is 150 cm with a rise of 7 cm at the house, and the optimal width is 3 meters with a rise of 15 cm.
  3. Wide waterproofing blind area around the building will help reduce watering of the soil adjacent to the foundation and basement. It is not necessary to arrange concrete blind area: you can use a more economical soft underground blind area made of waterproofing polymer-bitumen materials, hermetically connected by gluing or fusing to the surface waterproofing of the foundation.
  4. Foundation waterproofing It is performed in the form of sticking or fusing polymer-bitumen waterproofing materials onto a concrete surface primed with a primer. Waterproofing is applied to all edges concrete surfaces foundation, and not just external ones. You should not use roofing felt for waterproofing - its service life before cracking does not exceed 5-7 years. The installation of a vertical drainage membrane of the “Delta” type will help reduce the backwater of groundwater.
  5. Device ring drainage around the foundation with water drainage lower along the terrain, or into drainage reservoirs or wells. It is recommended to triple at least two drainage rings - next to the foundation and next to the edge of the waterproofing area around the foundation.
  6. When constructing a new building and laying the foundation and underground structures of basements, compacted cushions made of coarse sand, sand-gravel mixture or crushed stone(at least 10 cm thick) to reduce and break capillary pressure. The slab is laid under the foundation waterproofing material or expanded polystyrene boards with practically zero moisture permeability. All concrete structures, which will be located in the ground, are protected by several layers of waterproofing.
  7. Installation protective plate-visor to protect against rain splashes and the penetration of insects along the entire perimeter of the foundation, covering the entire upper edge of the foundation, will significantly improve the waterproofing of walls from the foundation in addition to standard polymer-bitumen materials.
  8. Do not store firewood on the blind area along the walls of the building - this impairs the ventilation of the foundation and walls, which can lead to increased moisture in the structures.

Underground.

During the construction of newly constructed buildings, it is better to avoid the construction of underground floors, as thermally and structurally irrational elements, replacing them with the construction of floors on the ground, or with a slab foundation. If you want to have an underground, or if there is an underground in an existing building, the following measures are carried out to control the moisture entering through the underground:

  1. Soil insulation. The soil under the building within the foundation is covered with bitumen-polymer waterproofing material, thick PVC or butyl rubber film. The overlapping edges of the film are glued to the inner surface of the foundation. The sheets are glued together with an overlap of at least 15 cm. If there is a pile or pile-grillage foundation, the soil is covered without gluing the waterproofing to the piles. The waterproofing material in the underground is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand or a 5 cm thick screed to ensure its mechanical protection.
  2. Adequate ventilation of the underground space. If there is no insulation of the soil under the building, vents must be installed in the foundation general cross section not less than 1/400 (requirements of the International Building Code - 1/150) of the underground area. Vents should be located opposite each other to ensure cross ventilation and no further than 90 cm from internal corners foundation. The minimum cross-sectional area of ​​one vent is 0.05 m2 (for example, 20 by 25 cm). If you have properly insulated soil, you can avoid vents in the foundation.

Walls

Lower parts of external walls, the walls to which the roofs of extensions or lower levels are adjacent are most susceptible to the effects of reflected precipitation splashes and snow accumulation. To prevent waterlogging of these parts of the walls, the following measures are taken:
  1. The minimum recommended height of the foundation or plinth under outer part the walls should be 60 cm. If the height of the foundation is less, then it is necessary to protect the wall with a splash-reflecting visor, or install walls overhanging the foundation with waterproofing of the lower edge. Also the lower 50 cm of external walls are made of mineral materials, or with finishing made from them, can be protected from moisture with a calmatizing hydrophobic impregnation.
  2. The walls to which the roofs adjoin can be protected with a layer of waterproofing and covered with a wall metal profile.
  3. The lower parts of external walls should not be covered tall plants, store firewood nearby, as this impairs air circulation and the natural drying of the walls. In addition, deposits, reflected from objects near the outer walls, can land on areas of the walls less protected from moisture.

Particular attention should be paid hydro-vapor barriers around windows and doors. Windows should be equipped with ebbs and drips to prevent drops from flowing down bottom surface low tide to the walls. Most windows and doors are now installed using polyurethane spray foam. Polyurethane foam with an open cell structure is not an obstacle to vapor transfer and moisture penetration.

Therefore, immediately after curing polyurethane foam must take cover vapor barrier tape from the inside and a waterproofing, vapor-permeable tape from the outside. To seal gaps, you can use pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tapes - PSUL. It is better to additionally insulate the slopes around windows and doors to prevent them from cooling and the formation of condensation.

Exterior decoration and curtain facades on the walls.

Basic rule of the device multilayer walls to prevent their overmoistening, it is formulated in paragraph 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 “Design of thermal protection of buildings”: To provide the best performance characteristics in multi-layer building structures, layers of greater thermal conductivity and greater vapor permeability resistance than the outer layers should be placed on the warm side. This means that exterior finishing materials should not interfere with natural vapor transfer through wall materials. This situation may arise with the outer coating of vapor-permeable wall materials, such as autoclaved aerated concrete, vapor-tight insulation, brickwork, plasters and paints, installation of hinged vapor-tight facades without ventilation of the gap between the walls and the facade.

Flat ledges on the walls, not equipped with protective canopies or slopes to drain water, ledges with a negative slope on the walls are a place for precipitation to collect, with subsequent moistening of the walls and the penetration of moisture into the house by capillaries. Uncleaned gutters result in overflowing water hitting the walls.

Internal vapor barrier of walls. Main purpose internal vapor barrier– reduction or prevention of vapor transfer through vapor-permeable wall materials. The installation of proper vapor barrier is especially important for preserving the properties of porous, cellular and fibrous thermal insulation or structural thermal insulation wall materials. When moisturized thermal insulation materials their thermal conductivity increases in geometric progression. The main mistake made when installing a vapor barrier is the lack of sealing of the joints of sheets of vapor barrier materials and their abutments to walls and structures. Be sure to seal any holes or punctures in the vapor barrier that may occur during construction. The vapor barrier material itself can only withstand the diffusion transfer of moisture. However, as is known, 98% of moisture is transferred not by diffusion, but by air currents. In the presence of microgaps and cracks in joints and abutments, the effectiveness of vapor barrier is significantly reduced, and the risk of moisture in wall materials increases significantly. Solid additional layer vapor barrier plaster or paint on internal surfaces premises will reduce the risk of dampening the walls from internal sources of moisture.

Cold attics. The main source of moisture in the attic is the penetration and leakage of air from the underlying premises through leaks in the attic floor. To ensure normal humidity conditions in the attic, it must be well ventilated through ventilation openings in the gables, dormer windows. It is recommended that at least half of the ventilation openings be 1 meter higher at the ridge in relation to the rest. Hip roofs must have ridge ventilation. To prevent condensation, all passing through cold attic ventilation and chimneys must be insulated. It is prohibited to vent the exhaust ventilation of premises into the attic space.

Warm attics. The main error with the device warm roofs is an insufficient ventilation gap, lack of ridge ventilation and blind lining of the overhangs, blocking the under-roof ventilation. Existing skating ventilation holes, roof fans and soffit perforations can become clogged with plant pollen, cobwebs and leaves, which leads to poor ventilation of the under-roof space of warm roofs.

Ventilation of premises. Ventilation plays a major role in removing excess moisture from home. Natural ventilation usually not enough for effective ventilation places with high humidity: in bathrooms, saunas, kitchens, technical rooms. In such rooms it is recommended to install local exhaust ventilation, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture. Exhaust fans can be adjusted to automatic switching on when a certain level of humidity in the room is reached. The recommended minimum ventilation level for bathrooms is 80 to 100 cubic feet per minute (CFM) and 150 CFM or more for kitchens. The minimum recommended duct diameter for local ventilation is 100 mm. The simplest way to install forced local exhaust ventilation is the air duct outlet through the wall.
Best result control of humidity in the house is achieved when installing the system supply and exhaust ventilation the whole house. When calculating the supply ventilation of a house, the required volume air flow calculated using the formula: CFM = 0.03 x area of ​​the house + 7.5 x (number of bedrooms + 1).
If there is no supply ventilation system in the house, it is recommended to install windows with microventilation valves and wall air supply valves KPV. It is especially important to have fresh ventilation in rooms with open-flame heating appliances, in kitchens with gas appliances and in boiler rooms.

Control of internal moisture sources.

A significant contribution to the increase in humidity can be made by open or hidden (in walls, ceilings, underground, ground) leaks water pipes and sewerage. You can determine the presence of a hidden water supply leak using a water flow meter, which will show water consumption in the absence of its consumption.

It is necessary to provide for drying clothes in the open air, or in dryer. Open aquariums can be closed with a lid. A supply of firewood should be stored in the house for no more than 1-2 days. When a large number of people live in a small room, you can use a mechanical dehumidifier.

Conclusion.
You should think about controlling humidity in a house at the stage of its design, providing all the necessary structural barriers for the penetration of moisture into the house and its structures, both outside and inside. The layout of the house, the location of windows and doors, elements of natural and forced ventilation should contribute efficient air exchange and removal of moist air.

A thoughtful analysis of the causes of high humidity in an already built house will help you make the right decision about possible ways to solve problems with excess humidity.

When assessing the air parameters in a home, most people first of all pay attention to its temperature, forgetting about such an important indicator as humidity. The subjective sensation of heat or cold, general well-being, the condition of plants and the safety of many household items depend on it. Let's figure out what the norm of air humidity in the apartment is, and also find out what it affects.

The humidity indicator reflects the degree of saturation of the air with water vapor. It can be absolute and relative. In the first case, it is determined how many grams of moisture are contained in 1 cubic meter of air. In the second, the percentage ratio of the actual amount of water in the atmosphere (absolute indicator) and the maximum possible at a given temperature is calculated.

When using such a concept as the norm of humidity in an apartment, a relative indicator is implied. This parameter largely determines the comfort of the indoor microclimate. Both the person and the home environment suffer from too much or too little humidity.

Dry indoor air provokes increased moisture loss through the skin and respiratory tract. This can lead to such unpleasant consequences, How:

  • decreased elasticity of hair, nails and skin, accompanied by the appearance of microcracks, wrinkles, peeling, dermatitis;
  • drying of the mucous membrane of the eyes, the symptoms of which are itching, redness, and a feeling of “sand”;
  • thickening of the blood, leading to a slowdown in its circulation, weakness, headaches, decreased performance, and increased stress on the heart;
  • an increase in the viscosity of gastric and intestinal juices, causing a slowdown in digestion;
  • drying of mucous membranes respiratory tract, the consequence of which is a weakening of local immunity and an increase in the incidence of acute respiratory viral infections;
  • an increase in the amount of respiratory allergens in the atmosphere, which should normally be bound by liquid droplets.

Excess moisture in the air creates acceptable conditions for the growth of mold, fungi, and bacteria. As a result, residents of the house may encounter:

  • respiratory diseases - chronic runny nose, bronchitis, asthma, allergies;
  • feeling of stuffiness or dampness in the room;
  • unpleasant odor due to the proliferation of pathogenic microorganisms;
  • increasing the drying time of washed laundry.

Excessive or insufficient amount of moisture has a bad effect on the condition of home furnishings. Plants dry out or begin to rot, wooden furniture and parquet floors become deformed or “shrink,” paintings fade, paper products lose their structure.

Factors affecting humidity

The main factor that affects air humidity is its temperature. The warmer it is, the greater the amount of water vapor it can maximum accommodate, and vice versa. But when assessing relative humidity, an inverse relationship applies: the warmer the air, the lower its relative humidity will be for the same volume of water vapor contained in it. Therefore, airing in winter makes the air fresher, but less humid. Optimal temperature considered 18-22 ºC.

Water vapor is “taken” from the air in the room:

  • any heating devices;
  • air conditioner;
  • interior items, especially cushioned furniture, toys, carpets.

Any sources of water and steam lead to an increase in relative humidity:

  • aquarium;
  • houseplants;
  • wet laundry;
  • containers with boiling water (saucepan, kettle);
  • leaking roof;
  • faulty water pipes and plumbing.

Standard indicators

Let's figure out what air humidity is considered normal in an apartment. It depends on the purpose of the premises and the time of year.

Humidity standards for housing:

  • warm period - 30-60%, maximum allowable - 65% (for certain regions with high humidity, this standard can be increased to 75%);
  • cold period – 30-45%, maximum permissible – 60%.

Relative air humidity is not standardized in auxiliary rooms - bathroom, toilet, corridor, pantry and others.

Standards for plants and interior items:

  • for furniture and antiques – 40-60%;
  • for equipment – ​​45-60%
  • for books – 30-65%;
  • for plants – tropical – 80-95%, subtropical – 75-80%, others – 40-70%.

What is the normal level of relative humidity in the apartment where the child lives? Since the intensity of heat exchange processes is increased in young children, they are especially sensitive to non-compliance with microclimate parameters. Ideal air humidity in a children's room is 50-70%. If a child is sick with ARVI or an infectious pathology, then this parameter should not be allowed to decrease less than 60%.


Important: B heating season air humidity drops to 15-20%. It definitely needs to be raised, especially if there are children, asthmatics and allergy sufferers in the house.

How to measure relative humidity?

Knowing what it should be optimal humidity air in the apartment, it is worth deciding how it can be measured. The most rational way is to use special device- hygrometer.

There are several types of devices - electrical, chemical, condensation, hair and others. There is no need to buy expensive things for an apartment. professional device. The simplest hygrometer with an error of 3-5% is enough. It is often combined with a clock and a thermometer. It is important to place the hygrometer away from sources of moisture and heat.

You can determine humidity using alternative methods– a glass of water, an Assmann table and a fir cone.

Glass of water

Pour water into a glass and cool it to 3-5 ºС. To do this, just put the vessel in the refrigerator for 3 hours. Next, you need to place the glass on the table away from the radiator and watch it for 5 minutes. At the same time, condensation forms on its walls due to temperature differences. Possible results:

  • the glass has dried within a few minutes – the humidity is reduced;
  • the walls remained fogged - the microclimate parameters were normal;
  • Streams of water flowed down the glass - there was too much moisture in the air.

Assmann table

The Assmann table is designed to determine humidity using a psychrometer - a device consisting of two thermometers - a regular one and one with a humidification device. Its likeness can be made at home. You must first measure the temperature in the room with a regular alcohol thermometer and write down its value. Then you should wrap its end with a damp cloth. After 5 minutes, the temperature must be measured again. It should go down.

Next you need to look at the Assmann table. The readings of the “dry” thermometer are located vertically, and the temperature difference is located horizontally. Having seen the desired values, you should find their intersection. This will be an indicator of relative humidity.

fir cone

Note: Indirect signs of low indoor air humidity are drying out the tips of plant leaves and electrical discharges emanating from synthetic clothing.

Humidity regulation

At any time of the year, normal air humidity in the apartment should be no less than 30-40% and no higher than 65%. How to regulate it?

Ways to reduce humidity:

  • frequent ventilation of premises;
  • installation of exhaust fans;
  • use of dehumidifiers and climate control systems;
  • timely repair of water pipes and plumbing fixtures;
  • use of heaters and air conditioners;
  • refusal to dry clothes in the room;
  • installation of a hood in the kitchen.

Methods for increasing humidity:

  • purchasing an aquarium or decorative fountain;
  • minimal use of heater and air conditioner;
  • hanging wet towels on radiators;
  • periodically spraying water from a spray bottle;
  • using an air humidifier - steam, ultrasonic or traditional;
  • regular wet cleaning;
  • growing a large number of indoor flowers.

Air humidity in the house - important parameter, affecting both the well-being of its inhabitants and interior items. Normally, this figure ranges from 40 to 60%. It is especially important to monitor the humidity in rooms where children and people with respiratory diseases spend most of their time. To regulate the moisture concentration in the air, it is convenient to use household humidifiers and dehumidifiers.

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