Door hinges are the simplest mechanisms by which door leaf attached to the door frame. Currently, there are detachable and universal hinges. Detachable hinges are two parts of the mechanism, fastened together with a special pin. You can remove the door from such hinges without unscrewing the device. The universal loop is one-piece. Distinctive feature The universal mechanism lies in the ability of the loop to withstand a heavier load. However, to remove the door you will need to unscrew the hinge itself.
Scope of application of universal hinges
One-piece universal hinges can be installed on entrance or interior doors, furniture doors, bar doors, and so on. It is not recommended to use one-piece hinges in rooms where it is often necessary to remove the door to move large loads (for example, furniture) and production repair work, since constant unscrewing of the mechanism contributes to rapid wear and damage.
Universal hinges are equipped with bearings that ensure silent and easy door opening. The number of bearings depends on the size of the hinge.
Types of universal loops
Universal door hinges can be classified according to several criteria:
- according to the method of attaching the mechanism to the door;
- according to the material from which the devices are made.
Types of hinges, differing in the method of fastening
Universal hinges for doors, depending on the installation method, are:
- Invoices or cards.
Overhead or card universal hinges are easy to install. However, it is not recommended to use such a mechanism for fastening heavy doors, since the safety margin of the hinge, as a rule, does not exceed 50 kg.
A type of overhead loop is a butterfly loop.
- Mortise.
Mortise hinges require more careful and careful installation. The advantage of such devices is a long period operation and the possibility of higher loads.
- Screwable.
Depending on the weight of the door, the number of pins of the device, which are the fastening elements of the hinge, changes. For the heaviest doors, hinges with four pins on each side are used. The advantage of the hinges is the ability to adjust them in different directions.
- Hidden.
The operating principle of the device is based on folding and extending. At closed door The loop is not visible, which is why it is called hidden.
A variation of hidden hinges are bar hinges, which allow the door to open both inward and outward.
For heavy doors choose to use mortise hinges. For other types of doors, hinges should be based on the weight of the structure and aesthetic preferences.
Materials used for the manufacture of universal hinges
For production door hinges may be used:
- brass. Brass fittings are highly expensive high quality. Brass hinges are virtually unaffected environment. The brass coating helps protect the product from corrosion and gives finished product beautiful view;
- steel. Hinges made of steel are less expensive than brass ones, but also have a smaller margin of safety;
- stainless steel. A large shortage of products from of stainless steel– lack of choice color range. However, this disadvantage is offset by low cost and strong wear resistance.
If the hinges are intended to be placed on doors leading to the street, then it is recommended to purchase products made of stainless steel or brass. For interior doors You can use loops made of any material.
Loop selection
The size and number of loops should be selected based on the following table.
How to install different types of hinges
Installing universal hinges is not a job that requires the involvement of specialists. Only hidden types of loops can cause difficulties.
Installation of overhead hinge
The universal overhead hinge is installed using a screwdriver or screwdriver and drill:
- At the first stage, markings are made for installing the device. The places where the hinge will subsequently be attached are marked on the door leaf and frame;
- holes are drilled with a drill for fastenings, usually included in the hinge kit;
- Using a screwdriver or other device (screwdriver), the hinge is attached first to the door leaf, and then to the jamb.
A universal hinge without insertion is installed within 5 – 10 minutes. However, it will be quite difficult for one person to carry out all the work. It is more advisable to use the help of a second person when installing the hinge.
Installation of a mortise hinge
The insertion of universal loops occurs according to the following scheme:
- the location for future installation is marked;
- using a chisel, remove a layer of door leaf and frame, the dimensions of which correspond to the dimensions of the hinge;
- using a drill, holes for fastenings are drilled;
- the loop is recessed into the prepared niche and screwed with self-tapping screws included in the kit.
It is also recommended to carry out work on installing the mortise hinge together with a partner.
Screw-in hinge installation
Installation of screw-in hinges, as in previous cases, begins with markings. This stage requires maximum attention, since the functionality of the structure after installation depends on correct markings.
- holes for the pins are drilled in the marked area (on the door and frame);
- screwing in the pins begins with the door frame, and then screws it to the door leaf;
- the final adjustment of the loop is made;
- the holes are closed with decorative caps.
Installation of a hidden hinge
Hidden hinges are installed according to a similar pattern to the mortise hinge. The main difference is that a deep niche is made under the hidden loop, rather than a superficial one. The hidden hinge itself is located inside the door.
Universal hinges are suitable for almost all doors: entrance, interior, furniture. Installation of hinges is carried out according to precise preliminary markings. Works on self-installation It is more convenient to carry out loops with a partner.
The durability of the hinges depends on the reliability of the hinges. swing doors. But the correct choice and installation of hinges are no less important - an error will lead to sagging and distortion of the door leaf. What types of this fittings exist depending on the material of the door and frame, you will learn from our review.
Wooden doors
One of the most “old” versions of the door hinge still exists. This is a forged front loop that fully meets the definition of handmade. It is used in wood construction, and in decorative terms it can be one of the central elements of the front door design.
IN Soviet time the most common type was the mortise detachable hinge.
This model is still being installed. The lower part is attached to the box, and the upper part is attached to the canvas. With the door fully open, if the platbands do not interfere, the leaf can be removed without dismantling the hinges. This makes it possible to lubricate the hinge pin or put a washer on it if the door sag slightly and begins to catch on the floor (as a result of shrinkage of the house or shrinkage of the frame).
The mortise universal hinge is of the one-piece type. It consists of five hinges separated by four wide washers.
Part of the hinge (wing) with two outer and one central hinge is attached to the box. A wing with two hinges is cut into the end of the door leaf. Such a loop can withstand greater loads than a detachable one (with the same finger sizes), but in order to remove the canvas, all loops must be removed.
For interior doors there are models with decorative pattern on hinges and wings.
The one-piece type includes overhead “butterfly” hinges, in which one wing fits into the other.
And although the loop received its original name due to the figured shape of the inner wing, there are models with a rectangular inner part.
In addition to straight mortise hinges, there are corner models. In this species, both wings (or one of them) are made in the form of an angle. They are used in a box with a rebate; this type can be either one-piece or detachable.
The most difficult to install - hidden hinges.
Unlike conventional mortise hinges, another recess must be cut in the box and the end of the leaf to hide the hinge mechanism, which has three rotary axes. But this inconvenience is compensated by special decorative properties doors (when closed, the hinge is not visible at all) and “wider” possibilities for opening it (up to 180°).
Screw-in hinges have a special installation method: the frame part is screwed into the front surface of the frame, and the return part is screwed into the end of the door leaf rebate. Therefore, such hinges are not suitable for ordinary doors. By design they are:
- with one pin and cover plate;
- with two pins;
- with three and four pins.
Moreover, in the latter case, such a hinge has a special screw that allows you to adjust the position of the cam and the height of the blade relative to the box.
They are also called “spring”, since inside each axial cartridge there are springs that return the leaf to the plane of the door frame. Such doors open in both directions, so this mechanism is used for rooms with high traffic (hence the name “bar”).
Metal doors
For metal entrance doors, three types of hinges are most common.
1. Welded (drip). This is a kind of mortise hinge, each part of which is welded to the box and the canvas. The only drawback is open view. And although such a hinge has anti-removal pins, its resistance to burglary is lower than that of a hidden-mounted hinge.
2. Corner. Classic hinge for a rebated door. The hidden mounting part of the wings provides higher anti-burglary properties of the hinge.
3. Hidden. Special type hinges, the mechanism of which is completely hidden in the box. It has absolute burglary resistance, but a long lever and increased loads on the bearing reduces its durability.
Wood as a material for the front door has noticeably lost its relevance. This is mainly due to the fact that the material is not able to provide protection against burglary, since it is quite easily cut even with a conventional mechanical tool. However, in suburban areas, where security measures are not limited to the entrance, this option is common.
Door hinges for wooden doors are selected taking into account the characteristics of both the material and the purpose.
Door leaves
Today there are not so few entrance structures that are called wooden doors and they are noticeably different in their structure.
- Chipboard is a material that is still used on small dachas, where they live only in the summer.
- MDF - the canvas can be cut from an MDF sheet, or it can have nothing at all lightweight design: frame covered with MDF sheets. The appearance of such a model may not be bad at all, but it is no good as protection against burglary. In addition, this option does not provide good thermal insulation, so it is also not suitable for houses that are used constantly. For summer cottages this option is quite suitable.
- A combination of solid wood and MDF - the sash is much heavier, but has much better heat and sound insulation qualities. The heavy weight requires the use of reinforced fittings, but the width and integrity of the canvas allows the installation of more reliable and powerful locks.
- Solid wood is the most respectable and expensive option. The door has a large mass: for example, a pine leaf weighs about 30 kg, an ash leaf weighs up to 45 kg, and an oak leaf weighs more than 60 kg. Its main advantage, again, is not its strength, although oak will provide this quality, but its excellent heat and sound insulation. And, of course, in the excellent appearance of the product.
Hinges for wooden entrance doors
The products are produced in a variety of ways - reinforced and regular, stainless steel and forged, mortise and overhead. They are selected taking into account the weight of the door, the design of the entrance - one door, vestibule, and the parameter that is considered the most important.
- Stealth - their advantage is invisibility. When the sash is closed, it is difficult to detect the fittings. There are 2 types in this category: mortise and screw-in. Mortise hinges are installed on doors with a rebate or overlay. To install them, you need to make grooves in the canvas and the box so that the products appear to be recessed in the wood.
An even more inconspicuous method is screw-in models; they consist of an axle and two screws. The latter are screwed into the end of the canvas, which makes the fittings literally invisible. However, this option does not allow removing the entrance flap from the hinges; they will have to be completely dismantled.
- Decorativeness – this quality is most relevant for overhead options. Their typical version, like a butterfly, is not suitable for entrance structures: the fittings will not support a heavy sash, as it is designed for 20–25 kg. However, in country houses especially in vestibules, where the second door serves as thermal insulation, antique forged overhead hinges have become popular. Such fittings are very decorative, give the building a touch of noble antiquity, and, of course, look much more interesting than stamped products. There is no need to embed the overhead elements, but it will not be possible to remove the wooden door from its hinges in this case - complete dismantling is required. The photo shows forged fittings.
- Thermal insulation - to ensure this quality, the door leaf or frame or both together must have a special design. We are talking about models with an overlay or a vestibule. In this case, the sash turns out to be slightly larger than the opening of its own frame and closes with an overlap. This design allows for additional thermal insulation, but requires special fittings.
For this purpose, install hinged corner or screw-in door hinges. In the first case, the fittings must be embedded, in the second, screws must be screwed into the canvas. In both models, the axis is behind the ledge, which allows you to freely open the sash, while achieving complete abutment when closing. Hinges for heavy wooden doors will need to be made of durable alloys - stainless steel is best; in addition, you will have to install at least 4 products instead of 2. They cannot be removed; you need to disassemble the fastening.
Installation of accessories
How to install or remove hinges on a wooden door depends on the selected type and design of the model. Most of them need to be embedded, overhead ones can simply be hung, screwed ones will need to be screwed into the canvas.
The installation technology for the most common option looks like this:
- Mark the place of fastening - 20–25 cm from the edge of the canvas. If not 2, but more elements are installed, the latter are distributed evenly between the two outermost ones;
- apply loops and circle with a knife;
- mark the mounting location on the riser of the box so as not to make mistakes. To do this, the sash is placed in a frame;
- then with a router, or a chisel with a hammer - the first option is much better, select wood from the groove to a depth equal to the thickness of the plate;
The superiority of removable canopies over universal ones, analysis of “butterfly” and “invisible” hinges. Distributing the load and explaining why the third loop just ruins everything. Separate mini-review – ideal partners for a massive door.
1. “Let’s decide: heavy doors are how many in kilograms?”
Conditionally: from 50 kg. Anything lighter can be handled by regular mortise hinges with 2.5mm thick cards. But for doors heavier than 50 kg, it is better to buy thicker hinges.
In general, the weight of the canvas depends primarily on: a) the material and method of filling; b) dimensions; V) exterior finishing. So that you understand the average layout:
~ 14 kg – weight of a “cardboard” interior door without glass (800 x 2000 mm, thickness – 35 mm).
~ 17 kg – similar model, but with a wide glass insert from top to bottom.
A solid oak interior door (800 x 2000 mm, thickness 35 mm) weighs ~ 40 kg.
The entrance door made of solid ash weighs ~ 75 kg (900 x 2000 mm, thickness – 55 mm).
~ 115 kg – weight of a church oak door (1300 x 2300 mm, thickness – 60 mm).
These figures are valid for bare canvas, and you should always keep in mind the weight of decorative overlays (if any) and, of course, fittings. Alone door handles add 0.5-1 kg on top.
2. “How is the load distributed on the hinges holding heavy door?»
Let's say we have classic version– door with two mortise hinges. Then the lower one bears the main axial load, and the upper one mostly takes the radial load. Simply put, the bottom hinge bears the weight of the sash, while the top hinge is subject to a force that tends to pull the hinge out of the jamb.
Door hinges wear mostly downward. Under the weight of the canvas, their halves are ground against each other, and bearings are gradually developed. As a result, over the course of a year, the interior door in the house drops by about 0.2-0.3 mm. That is, in 5 years it will inevitably sag by 1-1.5 mm. And this even with ideal conditions: adequately selected loops, proper installation etc.
Thus, the correct (taking into account the weight of the door leaf) choice of door hinges will allow you to delay as much as possible creaking, stiff movement, clinging of the door leaf to the frame and other incidents. And vice versa: if you hang a thick oak door on steel hinges 100 x 75 x 25 mm, then expect disaster. The hinges may not break out of the box, but they will suddenly sag.
3. “Why do you suggest buying mortise hinges for a heavy door? There are overhead “butterfly” awnings.”
No groove (groove) is made for butterflies. In fact, the door is held in place by four poor self-tapping screws on the bottom hinge. Butterflies also have a gigantic gap “out of the box”, which will only grow. In this situation, any wooden door in the 50+ kg category is doomed. It will quickly sag and begin to rub against the frame, even if it is hung by 3-4 butterflies.
4. "A door hinges hidden installation(“invisible”)? What's wrong with them?
They have a short hinge mechanism and small area fastenings, which leads to an increase in the load on the screws, and there are two of them on the sash and frame sides. In general, it is already clear that these are not the best hinges for thick doors (as well as for tall, wide, etc.).
Many more invisible ones narrow the opening angle. Sometimes very seriously - from 180° to 100°. You can, of course, move the box forward, as if drowning the platband in it, but this is unlikely to please your master. He already has a lot of work planned, because for hidden hinges the groove is milled not by 2-3 mm, as in the case of mortise hinges, but often by 10-11 mm or more. It would seem okay. But then we remember that we have heavy wooden doors and inside is not soft pine, but something very hard - oak, beech, ash. Such wood can be removed with a milling cutter, but it will not be so quick and easy. By the way, it won't be cheap either.
And since we're talking about money. Decent hidden door hinges (the kind that can withstand a heavy door) cost from RUB 3,000/piece.
5. “So, mortise hinges. But which ones: universal or removable?
Removable. And the point is not that with them you can remove the canvas at any time without unscrewing the screws. They have another not obvious, but extremely important advantage - simplicity. Removable hinges have only two rubbing surfaces and one support point (in the form of a hardened ball at the end).
Due to the simplicity of the design, removable hinges have less play and are not so sensitive to workmanship. Basically, if the ball rests against the cap, the hinges should and will work fine. Even if otherwise they have minor to moderate flaws in geometry.
With universal canopies on 4-5-6 bearings everything is complicated. To ensure that the bearings are evenly loaded, precision casting is required. It is unrealistic to achieve this in the cheap segment: door hinges for heavy doors costing 150-200 rubles are not cast, but stamped, and the axial play in them can reach 1-1.5 mm. This is already enough so that even with a perfect insertion, only one bearing plays the lead, and the rest just play along. In turn, this forces wear on the first bearing. After it is worn out, the blade will sag to the position of the next one, which from that moment will begin to work towards accelerated wear.
By the way, the removable loop has another advantage. If it sags, you can compensate for the change in height by ordering a brass or bronze washer from a turner and placing it on the axle. Universal awnings are not removable - and such a trick will not work there.
6. “How many hinges do you need for a heavy door - two or three?”
By two, except in special cases (more on this at the end of the paragraph). In this case, they should be fastened with a distance of 200 mm from the top and bottom of the canvas.
Why exactly two loops? First of all, three is almost always overkill. Let’s say you can order Palladium N 700 door hinges from us, which together can handle a 90-kilogram leaf. And 90 kg is a lot: 99% of home doors made of wood will fit into this limit.
Secondly, the third loop is needed for pressing. Its participation in load distribution is negligible, if not zero at all.
Thirdly, it is incredibly difficult to embed three hinges, aligning them along the same axis. Even if it works out, no one has canceled the seasonal fluctuations of wood, and the door will inevitably move. Because of this, the carefully set alignment will move, the load on the canopies and fasteners will become variable. Simply put, the porch will be broken, one of the hinges will begin to creak. Moreover, it is impossible to predict which one.
It makes sense to add a third loop in two cases:
Weak and thin door frame(≤ 20 mm in thickness);
High blade (≥ 2200 mm).
7. “I want to buy hinges for heavy wooden door, which will last at least 20-30 years. No creaking, jerky movement, sagging, etc. What to look for?
1.[Sideliness] This is if you listened to our recommendation and opted for removable models. How to distinguish a right loop from a left one.
2.[Size] If the door is heavy (70+ kg), take higher and thicker awnings. For example, our brass hinges Palladium N 700-5″ (125 x 80 x 4 mm) - they are designed for weights up to 100 kg. If the door is moderately heavy (60-70 kg), 100 x 80 x 4 mm will do. TO interior paintings weighing 40-45 kg you can limit yourself to loops 100 (125) x 75 x 2.5 mm.
3.[Material] Steel is in best case scenario B with a minus in geometry. Brass hinges tend to be much more accurate because they are not stamped but rather cast.
Sections of the article:
Interior and entrance doors should not only reliably protect the house from the entry of unwanted guests, but also please the eye with their appearance and have performance characteristics appropriate for their purpose.
When choosing and designing a home, door hinges play a huge role, since their unsuccessful selection can ruin not only the door leaf, but also the entire interior of the home.
Also, bad hinges can lead to sagging or distortion of the canvas, loose fit of the leaves to the door frame, and unpleasant squeaks.
Loop classification
The choice of door hinges is huge and is represented by products from hundreds of manufacturers, which are divided according to the following fundamental characteristics:
- Installation location;
- The principle of the connector;
- Method of fastening to the box;
- Material of manufacture;
- Type and design features.
It is necessary to clarify that the choice of hinges is needed only for interior and entrance doors made from MDF or wood. Doors made from other materials, as a rule, are equipped with canopies and corresponding fittings by the manufacturer and are included in the delivery set.
Types of hinges according to installation method
Depending on where the doors will be installed and what their purpose is, hinges are divided into two types:
- For interior doors;
- For entrance doors.
Since entrance doors differ from interior doors by significantly greater weight and massiveness, the hinges for them are somewhat larger than their interior counterparts. The main design feature of door hardware is that the hinges are equipped with a special anti-removal mechanism that prevents intruders from lifting and removing the front door.
It is for this purpose that depressions and protrusions are arranged on their wings, which are combined when the sash is closed and do not allow the door to rise even under the pressure of a handy tool.
Universal and detachable hinges
Such types of simple door hinges as detachable ones allow you to lift and remove the sash without unscrewing the fastening. Removable hinges have been popularly called “awnings” for a long time; this name has firmly entered into everyday use.
The design of the canopies consists of two parts, wittily called “male” and “male”, a term used by many experts and users in some countries.
Universal hinges for interior doors will have to be unscrewed if there is a need to remove the sash. They are suitable for door designs, opening both outward and inward, which can be considered a definite plus. However, the need to unscrew fasteners causes certain inconvenience and loss of time, which should be considered a big disadvantage.
Separation of loops by type of construction
By design features Door hinges are divided into the following types:
- Mortise;
- Screw-in;
- Invoices;
- Angular;
- Double sided;
- Secret.
Each type of design has its own disadvantages and advantages and deserves separate consideration.
Overhead and mortise
Basic structural elements mortise and overhead hinges are completely identical.
Both types are card hinges that are attached to both the frame and the door leaf. The only difference is in the way it is carried out preparatory work: overhead hinges for interior doors do not require special surface preparation, while for mortise hinges, small recesses are made in the frame and at the end of the leaf into which the card plate is recessed.
Overhead hinges have been used since ancient times. They were made of steel - skilled blacksmiths received a durable and beautiful product, although not distinguished by the symmetry of modern hinges. The hinges were reliable and quite large in size.
Nowadays design solutions in the production of overhead hinges, they again return to the unforgettable “retro” style. They are increasingly being made “antique” and find a place in both private country houses and apartments.
When choosing overhead hinges for fastening a door, attention is first paid to the simplicity of their design and installation - the hinges are simply attached to screws, and the door is inserted into the frame using improvised means without the use of any sophisticated devices.
The most interesting design idea for a traditional and conservative flat card is considered to be this type of overhead loops called a butterfly loop. It folds down to the thickness of a regular card thanks to an intricately designed cutout shaped like butterfly wings. For such hinges there is no need to perform sampling either in the frame or in the body of the sash.
Mortise hinges are completely identical to overhead hinges in their design and method of fastening. The only difference is that they cut into the end of the door being installed and are secured with screws. When the door is in the closed position, only parts of the plates covering the rotary axis are slightly visible.
In addition to being divided into “with mortise” and “without mortise,” overhead and mortise hinges on doors can also be universal and detachable.
According to established tradition, mortise removable hinges are called mortise canopies, and universal ones - with mortise hinges.
The main difference between detachable overhead hinges and universal ones is the increased rigidity of the universal hinge design, which allows it to withstand a larger applied load with significantly smaller dimensions, while the sagging of the sash in the opening is always minimal or absent at all.
Another difference between such modifications of overhead hinges is the division of detachable canopies according to the method of opening into left- and right-handed ones. Universal hinges are not separated according to this principle - there is no difference in their installation for opening the door.
Screw-in (screw-in) hinges
The design of screw-in hinges consists of two symmetrically located parts in the shape of cylinders, in which holes are made for screws. “Kegs,” as they are popularly called, are considered similar in functionality to flat cards. One cylindrical wing is secured with screws to the door leaf, and the other to the frame.
Loop screw mechanisms are universal, that is, there is no need to select hinges for the right or left side. A special feature of such hinges is the fact that after installation the door will no longer be able to be removed - this is both an advantage and a disadvantage of screw-in hinges. Screw-in hinges can only be used on doors with a quarter-bar (European hinge); door leaves manufactured according to domestic standards are not suitable for fastening to such canopies.
Corner hinges
Main external difference Such hinges from mortise or overhead hinges are secured to the axial rod not by a simple pair of flat wing-plates, but by a pair of profile corners. This form of cards is mounted mainly on doors with a vestibule.
Fastening at the end of the door is carried out mortise method using screws, and the hinges themselves, although conveniently placed in the opening, are easily visible against the background of the door structure.
Hidden hinges for interior doors deserve special mention largely due to their aesthetic characteristics - when the door is in the closed position, the awnings are not noticeable at all. They, like screw-in hinges, are universal, which can be attributed to another advantage of this type of canopy.
A design feature of hidden hinges is the presence of at least three rotary axes. Hidden hinges are quite difficult to install, so it is better to use the services of specialists to install the door.
Double-sided hinges allow the door leaves to open freely in one direction or the other.
The main application of such loops is in office doors, they are installed very rarely in interior apartment doors - they are simply not needed there.
Classification of loops by material of manufacture
The materials used to make door hinges are not very diverse.
Recently forgotten steel products are gradually regaining their leading positions. For many years, blacksmiths improved the technology of making hinges from pure steel, but the development of aluminum alloy production pushed this material back for some time. During the Soviet Union in our country, steel hinges were used primarily for the production of ordinary consumer goods without any special frills or aesthetic qualities, without any anti-corrosion or decorative coating.
Nowadays, installing simple steel canopies on interior doors is unpopular; they are used mainly for street and garden gates, installed on doors in non-residential premises. Forged iron is now being installed in apartments door furniture, stylized “antique” or stainless steel hinges.
The main advantage of steel canopies is the highest mechanical strength and abrasion resistance. Stainless steel canopies are also highly resistant to moisture and temperature changes, and therefore they are actively used for hanging entrance doors facing the street.
Thanks to the development of design ideas and improvements in technology, enameled hinges or coated with special chemical compounds“bronze” or “gold”, brass, chrome plated. Alloys of copper, steel, aluminum or zinc are used as the main material, which are subsequently coated with special compounds for decorative or anti-corrosion purposes.
The world's leading manufacturers of door hardware prefer to make hinges entirely from brass rather than spray-coating them. This is especially true for elite and expensive models. Such canopies are capable long time maintain their decorative and aesthetic properties, and in terms of wear resistance and strength, brass products are in no way inferior to steel ones.
Hinges for folding doors
Folding interior doors entered the interior of our apartments relatively recently. Normal operation of doors of this design, consisting of separate sections, is ensured by special fittings included in the kit.
Hinges for folding interior doors are predominantly mortise, of a special design. Their goal is to connect the doors, of which there may be several, above and below.
Each type of door uses its own type of fittings, the quality of which determines not only appearance, but also the duration of operation of the door.
