Types of roofing on a log house. Old Russian types of roof construction

If for your wooden house If you have chosen a gable roof, then you will need a log or timber as the main material for its manufacture. The entire process of constructing this structure can be divided into several stages and types. In this article we will tell you what types of rafter systems for log houses there are, as well as what roof schemes exist.

Nailless (male) roof

A nailless roof is a structure in which planks are laid on horizontally installed logs. The ends of the logs need to be cut into the transverse logs that form the pediment.

IN in this case Basic structure– these are the end walls, the “males”, the place where the wall of the log house narrows. Logs, which are called slegs, are fastened in it using the notching method, and a roof is laid on them.

Logs from longitudinal walls They hide inside the house and need about three of them to work. For the upper part, as a rule, a large ridge log is used.

To make the roof structure more durable, you need to install a rafter leg. It is a triangular structure, and is installed in the middle part of the roof.

There is a more economical arrangement of the roof: the end walls are covered with hewn boards, and rafters are used to cover the roof. Males do not do this in such a situation; a sheathing of thin logs is installed over them.

Types of rafter systems

For the construction of a pitched roof you can use hanging rafters and layered.

This design the easiest to assemble and its manufacture requires little material. Due to the fact that the layered rafters are supported by the emphasis on outer part walls, they exert pressure on the walls of the building. The pressure on the roof causes a bursting effect on the walls, causing them to move apart.

Layered rafter systems are used when roof spans do not exceed 6 meters. If the span is more than 6 m, another support is installed. If the building has a central load-bearing wall, this will be an additional advantage.

Hanging rafter systems

If roof spans are more than seven meters and additional supports are not provided, hanging rafters are used. This design does not put a load on the walls, the expansion effect is not noticeable. Tightening, which is installed in the middle part rafter legs, strengthens the rafters.

Roof structure on males

The main supporting system in this type of roof is the end walls. Shallow recesses are made in the gables, and logs (slegs) are installed in them. Therefore, the male roof, in some way, is a continuation of the wall, the logs of which become increasingly shorter towards the top.

The structure of such a roof can be assembled on the ground. You need to start the process with a base removed from the walls onto temporary linings. They cut down the log house not to its full height, but in parts, re-arranging the crowns. The advantage of this technique is that the structure can be adjusted on the ground.

The end wall is formed from male logs, which are fastened together with dowels. This makes it possible to preserve the stability of the pediment. And using dowels, you can achieve additional thermal insulation. Since this design does not have horizontal expansion, it is not entirely reliable.

In order to increase strength, you can connect the poles with male logs:

• using the “paw-to-foot” cutting method in a place where the logs around the corner are not marked;
• “in the paw with a cut”;
• using the root cutting method.

If the work is done incorrectly and poorly, the house will be leaky. Therefore, if you do not have the relevant experience or knowledge, trust a specialist.

At what angle should the roof slopes be?

This issue can be solved with the help of a plumb line nailed to the board and a cord that is attached in the middle of the board.

Raise the board so that the plumb line points to the center of the pediment. If you plan to build a roof with different slopes, then the board needs to be moved to the corner, and the ends of the cord stretched towards the corners.

The board needs to be attached to the wall, the cords should be fixed in the corners. After this, you can already visualize the angles of the slopes. A similar procedure must be carried out with the second part of the pediment. Use a water level and focus on the horizon mounted on the boards.

Once the edge of the slopes has been marked, continue installing the gable logs.

Cutting a ridge log can be done in two ways: in the first, we cover the pediment with a log, and in the second, we cover the ridge with a male log.

If you choose the first option, then the gaps that form at the top of the gable can be closed with short male logs.

For the second option, experts advise using sheathing made of thick and massive logs. This way you can level and raise the roof a little. The most relevant use of sheathing for roofs made of planks.

When erecting a roof, do not forget that its projection beyond the gables should not exceed 50 cm. In a situation where the projection is greater than this distance, you can strengthen the structure using logs with a large cross-section.

Also, for strengthening, you can cut in 2 or 3 ridge ledges and create a step-shaped protrusion in this way. In this case, the presence of lower logs is not necessary; they can be replaced with short logs.

The sheathing should lie flat. Since logs that have been cut cannot be hewn, when cutting, do not forget to measure their end using a level. In order to check the flatness of the laying, you can run a flat board along the roof. If you find depressions or unevenness, replace them with sawings; eliminate hunchbacks.

Roof structure with hanging rafters

The roof with hanging rafters is a triangular frame, the beams of which run through the entire structure.

The pressure that acts on the system is distributed over the entire area of ​​the frame: vertical pressure on the rafters has a bursting effect, and the legs, which are embedded in the beams, transfer the pressure to the beam, this reduces the stress of the entire structure.

The design of a roof with hanging rafters has a drawback - the beams bend. Since in such a situation there is no support point for the bottom of the leg, experts suggest using a rafter system with a “headstock”. In this system, it is possible to use material with a smaller cross-section.

Methods for joining wooden parts

For connection and docking building material use different techniques. Depending on the type of structure, bolts, dowels, dowels, nails, glue, and staples are used.

Not only the reliability of the units, but also the stability of the entire structure depends on the dimensions of the plane at the junction of the elements.

As the contact area between parts increases, the friction force increases. To complicate the nodal connection, instead of straight cuts on the beams, make dovetail or claw locks. In such cuts, a force arises that prevents the separation of wood elements.

The connection of large units can be done independently, using an ax or saw. And it is better to entrust the connection of small, complex joints to professional carpenters.

Installation of rafters on a log house

Gable roof for a log house: analysis of construction options + technological details

Constructing a roof over a log building is not an easy job, requiring the craftsman to have the skills of a skilled carpenter and knowledge of materials science. The performer will need to first practice making connections. He must take into account the traditional shrinkage of walls made of wood. In order for a gable roof on a log house to be built flawlessly, information is needed about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we offer will be useful and independent craftsmen, and to customers of construction crews for meaningful control.

"Tricks" of wooden housing construction

Popularity chopped baths, cottages, residential buildings is justified by an amazing atmosphere that returns to folk origins. Buildings made from natural wood are distinguished by excellent thermal technology and attractive price. A significant advantage is the ability to spontaneously allow excess evaporation to pass through. One cannot help but pay tribute to the solid environmental advantages.

However, the popular natural building material has an impressive list of disadvantages. In addition to flammability and sensitivity to waterlogging, carpenters-builders and future owners must be concerned about:

• Dimensional instability of wooden structures. Linear movements occurring due to fluctuations in humidity and temperature will accompany the structure until completion of operation. In the first years the elements wooden system move more actively, over time the “agility” decreases, but does not disappear.
• Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log houses for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the assembly of the crowns. After installation, wood sags on average by 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Walls made of laminated veneer lumber will sag the least, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
• The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intensive change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along the fibers, the size of the scaffolding changes insignificantly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.

Without taking into account the above circumstances wooden roof will definitely “move out”. Gaps will appear between the foot of the house and the roofing system, allowing raindrops to pass through and melt water. The wood will then begin to rot, resulting in the complete destruction of not only the upper enclosing structure, but also the house as a whole.

Taking into account the specifics of the material is not enough for the competent construction of a wood roof. You need to familiarize yourself with all possible ways construction in order to choose an option that is rational in terms of cost and effort. You need to understand what forces will act on walls made of logs or timber, and what method can be used to extinguish their effect.

Types of angled roofs for log houses

Roofs with two slopes are ideally combined with chopped feet. Two steep slopes create the impression of a fairy-tale hut. The most suitable tilt angle is 45º-60º, but variations in both directions have every right to exist.

A competitor in the field of arranging log houses for a gable structure can become sloping roof, having a similar or pentagonal configuration in section. Gable roofs over log houses can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. As finishing coating All types of roofing materials are applicable, including shingles and reeds.

IN wood construction Ancient technologies for constructing roofs at an angle have been preserved, and new methods have emerged that allow wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the method of installation, gable roofs of wooden buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:

• The roofs on the males are on chopped and joined log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. The load-bearing parts of the roof structure, according to the “male” method, rest directly on the gables. A sheathing is laid on top for installation of the finishing coating.
• Roofs with rafter system. They are built according to the requirements dictated by standard construction technologies pitched roofs. Rafter roofs can be suspended or layered, resting on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The gables are simply covered with boards, thanks to which the construction budget is reduced along with the effect of a chopped house.

In fact, roof manufacturers rarely follow just one technology. Rafter structure can be combined with the male system. A hanging truss can be installed in the middle of a male roof so that it does not sag under its own weight, coupled with the roof and snow.

There are schemes that are generally difficult to classify into a specific category, because their decisive design features can be classified in different ways.

For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, matrix or transfer, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a tie that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The tightening of the truss can be moved higher, as was suggested in another article describing the construction of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but to understand the principle of their design, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.

Rules for making a roof on males

It would be a sin for roof builders using the male scheme not to take advantage of the invaluable advantage of chopped boxes. They can be disassembled and reassembled many times like a children's construction set. Therefore, the upper crowns are simply removed from their proper places and installed on a suitable flat area.

It is much more pleasant to work on solid ground without risk; there is no need to move along shaky scaffolding and walkways. Under the crown, linings made of aspen chocks are installed. They imitate the previous rows of logs, thanks to which there is no slightest difficulty with leveling to the horizon and fitting nodes.

If we conditionally divide a log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will be on the walls, and the upper third will be on the frame gable roof. Essentially, this is a converging top like a wedge log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, the logs are laid in a notch. They are not installed in every row, but after two or three.

Males, after being erected to full height, are filed down to form a clear triangular shape. Then the sheathing is mounted on the base, with roofing material on top.

The tops of the males are connected by a ridge strip, which can be laid in two different ways:

• With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log completing the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped projections of the male are sawed off or hewn into a triangle. There are uncovered areas at the top that will need to be filled with shorties.
• Overlapping with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with male logs, shortened towards the top. The slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The sheathing then has to be constructed from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, you can install rafters, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the beams.

To make slugs, take the smoothest logs Ø 18-20cm. They are fastened with simple notches “in the paw” or complicated analogues “with a notch” or “spike”. Because the edge of the pediment is trimmed or sawed off, notches with horizontal parts of fastening units of the “in-a-pan” type are not suitable. After all, part of the load-bearing element of the connection will be removed during processing.

The length should form the gable overhang of the roof. Usually it is 0.5 m. If it is decided to increase the width of the overhang, the legs are laid in pairs or three in each “step” of the male to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Upon completion of the construction of the roof frame, its geometry is checked by installing the board on an imaginary slope.

The bulges revealed by the board are trimmed off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to trim more.

The old craftsmen did not use fasteners at all when making roofs on males. Structures of this kind are called nailless roofs. There were no gradually rusting rods in the body of the wood, so the structures lasted for hundreds of years.

Combination with rafters

It happens that the construction of a traditional male roof is not possible. For example, as a result of diligent cutting of excess from the legs and males, the cut-in joints can be significantly damaged. In such situations classic version simply complemented with layered rafters on top. The need to trim the humps then automatically disappears. The final alignment is done along the upper edges of the rafter legs.

The production of rafters is carried out according to a template with marks of notches and leg lengths. They are simply chopped with bowls. Accuracy in cutting the connections between the rafters and the beams is not necessary; on the contrary, the bowls should be 3-5 cm larger than the outline of the beam. The frame of the house will inevitably settle, losing height. The rafters will remain almost the same size except for a few mm. The settling box will drag the bottom of the rafters with it, causing the angle of connection between the bottom of the rafter and the top crown to decrease. Those. The rafters resting against the upper logs or floor beams will gradually move apart.

A relatively slight displacement of the rafters that is safe for the roof will be ensured by a wide notch. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, the rafters at the top will come closer together during a period of intense shrinkage. After shrinking, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and/or a tie installed just below. Without waiting for shrinkage, you can connect them with a hinge unit, allowing wooden parts systems can move without creating gaps between the frame and the roof.

The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The joints are made with tongue-and-groove notches, and the eaves overhang is extended with fillets. To prevent the gable log roof from being blown off the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the pins hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind loads, you need to tie each rafter leg. After active shrinkage of the wooden structure, loose twists should be tightened.

Two slopes with layered rafters

The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the slugs are not needed at all. Rafter legs got their name from the fact that at the top and bottom they rest on independent supports. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a mauerlat, or on beams ceiling. To support the top of elements rafter system There are several options for a gable roof over a log house:

• A ridge or prince's line, laid between the males. The tops of the rafters laid lightly are not fastened or connected with a hinge for the reasons stated above.
• Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because their edges rest on walls of different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no particular point in installing males for such a roof; the gables are simply sheathed with boards.
• Support structure installed on mats under the ridge beam. Males in this case again do not form. To compensate for shrinkage support pillars are installed on screw control devices, which make it possible, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length of the support posts. Previously, instead of compensating devices, wooden pads were used, which were removed after shrinkage.

The eaves overhang of a slanted roof over a log house is most often provided by sewn fillies. Although it can be formed by extending the rafter legs, if they are fastened not with notches, but with sliding connecting devices. Sliding fasteners allow you to build roofs over chopped piles without waiting for shrinkage.

Hanging roof structure diagram

Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the box being built. They only have walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected with a tie, thanks to which the hanging rafters turn into equilateral triangle, also called a rafter arch or truss. The tightening “takes on the chest” the thrust transmitted in a layered pattern to the walls.

Compensating for the effect of thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. It was gladly borrowed by builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that push the walls of the house when the load on the slopes increases. The role of tightening can be successfully played by a ceiling beam. And then it really will not become clear whether the rafter frame of a gable roof will need to be classified as a layered or hanging category.

The invaluable advantage of hanging systems is that for production With The roof sides of the log house do not have to go up. All rafter triangles fit together perfectly according to the template and are adjusted in safe conditions.

The first place on the list of disadvantages is taken by restrictions on overlapped spans. Systems without a central support do not cover large-span buildings. When arranging a house up to 5 m wide, a simple rafter arch is used without additional parts that increase the rigidity of the structure. Tightenings for larger spans may bend from their own weight. To eliminate sagging, a headstock is installed in the center of the rafter triangle.

To understand the essence of constructing a hanging rafter system, let’s consider the technology of installing arches over a small log house. The lower heels of the rafters will rest on the ceiling beams; the connection of the upper edges will be reinforced with a wooden overlay and tie. We will entrust the formation of the eaves overhang to fillets, and we will entrust the responsibility of ensuring the rigidity of the structure to small supports. Males will not breed. The gables created by the slopes after installation work Let's sew it up with a board.

To mark the lines of the slopes, we find the centers of both ends and mark them on the upper crown. Focusing on the mark, we will install a board vertically, any longitudinal edge of which will repeat the imaginary central axis. We equip both ends with boards, mark the height of the roof on them, using a water or laser level. You need to stretch a construction cord between the boards to mark the ridge line of the roof.

The procedure for installing a hanging roof:

• We align the beam bypasses that extend beyond the foot. We hammer a nail into the outer beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, and saw off with a chainsaw.
• On the ceiling beams we mark the location of the nests required for installing the rafter legs. Similarly, we hammer in the nails, tighten the lace and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on the rafter leg.
• We make a truss template. We attach the board suitable sizes with the lower edge towards the first motherboard, the upper edge must be held so that the edge of the board lies under the lace indicating the ridge line. Where the board and cord touch, place a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. Using the matrix, we draw a line for the bottom cut and mark on the rafter the location of the tooth where the socket is marked on the beam.
• We make rafters using the template and assemble them on a level area.
• We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install them in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and secure it with temporary jibs.
• On the mats inside the log house, using a ruler, two nails and laces, mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. It seems to me that it is more convenient to do this procedure together with marking the nests.
• We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We note the height of the support after the fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
• We install drains, the top of which is secured with two wooden plates.
• We select the grooves in the outer matrices for installing the fillies.
• We sew on the outer fillets, hammer nails into them, and stretch a cord between them.
• We install intermediate fillets along the cord, after installing which we decorate the overhangs with a wind board.

From the inside, the rafter triangles should be connected with diagonal wind ties. From the outside, the rigidity of the structure will be supported by lathing, the type of which is selected according to the type of finishing coating.

Those wishing to equip warm roof Thermal insulation will need to be laid between the rafters. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters before installing the sheathing, regardless of whether the structure will be insulated.

The examples and diagrams of gable roofs over log boxes we have given will help you decide on the best option construction. Any of the basic versions can be modified and adapted to individual technical specifications. Information about the specifics of the device is useful both for those who are going to equip their property with their own hands, and for those who need to control the work.

In general, a gable roof on a log house is a widely used solution. This is a relatively simple installation and no problems with snow during the cold season. In addition, almost all materials are suitable: metal tiles and slate. The main thing is to accurately calculate and design everything. The most important thing: correct calculation of the roof slope. From 20 to 60 degrees depending on weather conditions in the region.

Logging a gable roof: how to make a gable roof for a log house

Methods of attaching rafters to a log house

After erecting the walls and waiting six months for the shrinkage to complete, you can move on to the next stage of construction - installing the roofing system. For wooden houses and the bathhouse most often chosen is standard gable roof with a significant slope on which snow will not accumulate. The rafters for a log house must be strong and correctly installed; the security of the walls and ceilings and the durability of the entire structure depend on the reliability of the roof. How to install rafters on a log house?

Installation options for the rafter system

Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to install the ceiling beams. It is necessary to make a technological hole in the upper crown of the log house, which is called a notch - a beam will be installed into it.

In this case, the hole should not be through so that the end of the ceiling beam does not suffer from atmospheric phenomena. The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the ceiling, and on the options for using the attic or attic room

. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.

Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse The procedure for constructing any building in general view simple enough. First, the foundation is laid, the walls are erected, the roof is installed, and then construction is carried out. interior work

. The topic of this article is installing rafters on a log house with your own hands.

If you have a building made of logs or timber, then the top 2 crowns when constructing walls do not need to be secured before installing the ceiling beams. Special holes will be made in them, called “notches” for laying beams. The dimensions of the notches are determined by the dimensions of the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are pre-calculated for the expected loads. An option is possible in which no cutting is made into the upper crown, but in this case, if it is necessary to replace the ceiling beam, problems will arise, since you will have to remove the upper crown or saw off the damaged beam.

The notch for the ceiling beam must be “blind”, i.e. non-through. This will help protect the end of the beam from exposure to weather conditions.

The required step for installing ceiling beams is calculated based on the expected loads and the material you use for this, the minimum step is 50 cm.

After installing the ceiling beams, you can think about how to install rafters on the house or bathhouse.

There are few ways to assemble rafters, or rather, only 2:

1. Assemble roof trusses on the ground and lift them onto the house in finished form.
2. Assemble directly on the roof and lift elements of roof trusses there.

The first method is good for relatively light structures that can be lifted by several people. The second is used for massive rafters that are difficult to lift manually onto the house. If you have the ability to lift the rafters with a crane, you can also assemble heavy trusses on the ground.

Assembling roof trusses on the ground

In previous articles we talked about the ways in which various elements of roof trusses can be connected. In this article we will look at a specific example of assembling hanging rafters with a crossbar for a 5x4 bathhouse with a gable roof. After assembly, we will install the rafters on the ground - it’s more convenient.

The rafter legs are made of edged boards “fifty” with a width of 10 cm. The crossbar and tie are made of the same material. The length of the rafter legs is 280 cm. The tightening length is 440 cm. We install the crossbar at a height of 50 cm from the ridge. The slope angles are 40°. Assembly instructions are determined by the design of the hanging rafters. The upper ends of the rafter legs rest against each other in the ridge; to do this, we saw off their ends so that the lower ends create an angle of 40° with a tightening (see photo). We saw off the lower ends under the right angle Same. You can fasten using bolts, plates, nails, etc., having previously calculated required amount for each node.

The crossbar gives additional rigidity to the rafters. To install it, we make a notch in the rafter leg to the width of the crossbar. At the ends of the crossbar we make a tooth with a length equal to the width of the rafter, and a thickness equal to the depth of the notch - on the rafter leg. We fasten with screws, nails or other fastening materials.

Do-it-yourself installation of rafters begins with the outer trusses, so it is better to sheathe them directly on the ground. To do this, after 40 cm we fill the rafters with bars for fastening the sheathing; the material for the bars can be taken in sizes 40x40 or 50x50. The sheathing boards should protrude beyond the tie by a width of 2.5 cm or more, so that water from the gable does not flow onto the sheathing of the bathhouse frame. When the cornice is sheathed, this outlet will be hidden by its sheathing.

You can sheathe the pediment not vertically, but horizontally. Then the sheathing is stuffed vertically, connecting the tie and rafter legs. Here, too, you need to provide 2.5 cm for the outlet on the tightening side, for the same purposes as in the vertical cladding option.

Installing assembled trusses

After all the trusses are assembled, they need to be lifted sequentially to the roof.

The rafter installation technology is as follows:

1. We raise and secure the outer trusses. To do this, we drill 2-3 holes in the tightening for attaching the rafters to the beams of the upper crown of the log house. We place a plumb line on the crossbar in the center to control the verticality of the truss.
2. If this is required by calculation, we install additional jibs. Jib beams can also be used to temporarily secure trusses until complete installation the entire system. Once all the trusses have been lifted and installed, the jib can be removed.
3. We install the central truss, also checking its verticality and securing it with additional elements if necessary.
4. We install the remaining trusses in the same way as the central one.
5. We connect the trusses together using lathing. It can be made from timber, edged or unedged boards, plywood, OSB boards. The choice of material for the sheathing is determined by the choice roofing material, with which you are going to cover the roof.

In order to assemble the rafters on the roof in the same way, 4 people are needed. The rafter legs are connected in a horizontal position, and then lifted and installed in place using ropes. In this option, difficulties may arise when installing intermediate trusses, since those already installed will interfere with their lifting.

As you can see, in the above example, the installation of trusses was carried out in the absence of a ridge girder. If a ridge girder is required for the roof, then it is no longer possible to assemble the rafters on the ground. In this case, they will have to be lifted onto the roof disassembled and assembled at the installation site.

Assembling rafters on the roof

If the design of your house provides for layered rafters, and not hanging ones, as in the previous example, then in order to install them, you need additional support. How to install the rafters correctly in this case? First you need to install the ridge girder.

If the gables of your house are made of brick or blocks, then the purlin can be supported on them, while the ends of the purlin should protrude beyond the gables so that you can create a cornice overhang. Purlins are usually made of logs or timber. The standard length of such material is 6 m. Manually lifting such a log onto the roof of a house is quite problematic; most likely, a crane will be required. The gables must withstand the pressure of the purlin, so they are made using reinforced masonry. By the way, it is possible to install the roof without rafters, only using ridge and side purlins. In this case, the sheathing is packed onto the purlins. This method is applicable for roofs with cold attic space, if you plan to use the attic for housing, then keep in mind that in the attic the insulation must be able to be ventilated, so you will still have to use layered rafters.

For this type of rafters, the location of all elements in the same plane does not matter and the rafters can be laid on the ridge girder one by one.

Depending on the material and design loads, rafters may have additional elements in the form of braces, struts, racks. We described their fastening scheme in previous articles. If, according to the design of your house, the gables are not designed for the installation of a ridge girder, it is mounted on several racks, which are installed on a bench. In this case, the beam is first installed, the racks are installed on it, then the ridge girder and only then the layered rafters.

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse: technology

Existing materials for as varied as technical specifications and operational properties, as well as in texture and color.

The roof, more than other elements of the building, is exposed to the elements. It must withstand the weight of snow cover and prevent moisture penetration. All year round It’s as if the roof is being tested by nature for strength. And also the roof is very important architectural element building, which plays a big role in its appearance. What is the difference between the roofs used when building a log house? The appearance and functionality are determined not only by the features of the roof. After all, the condition of the roof during operation also depends on how competently the project was chosen and how it was implemented.

The roof consists of , and, of course, the roof itself. She has inclined surfaces - these are, - and horizontal parts: ,. At the lower edge of the slope, for, sometimes provided. The lower part of the slope, limited by the gutter and edge, is called descent.

The roof truss system is used everywhere today. Rafters- This is a supporting structure that takes on the weight of the roof, snow and wind force. Therefore, the lumber from which the rafters will be made is subject to special requirements. It should not have any defects - rot, wormholes, falling knots, cracks in the joint zones, cracks outside the joint zone with a depth of more than 0.25 of the thickness of the timber and a length of more than 0.25 of its length.

It is also necessary to remember what other properties wood has, such as construction material. First property- drying of wood and, as a result, subsidence of walls after completion of construction. Second- associated with sealing seams. The main settlement occurs in the first 1 – 2 years. The entire settlement process can take up to 8 years from the date of completion of construction.

Therefore, when installing a roof for a roof, rigidly fastening the rafters to it is a serious mistake. Due to the settlement of the log house, its height decreases and the roof ridge can drop up to 20 cm from the level at which it was at the time of completion of construction. And, if the rafters are rigidly attached to the mauerlat, then pressure will occur from the inside both on the supporting log and on the entire wall. As a result of these mistakes, the upper rims of the walls of a log house will bend outward, and the gaps between the logs will increase. Bursting from the inside, it will begin to turn into ruins.

To prevent a new house from causing such troubles, it is necessary to choose a contractor who takes on the construction, as they say,<под ключ>. If you buy a log house without a roof at all, you may encounter the problems described above. And this is by no means accidental, since the well-being of the structure as a whole depends on the reliability and quality of the roof. If the contractor enters into a construction contract along with the roof, this means that the specialists are experienced and qualified and are ready to be responsible for all their technical solutions.

Architectural solutions for the roof structure must be combined with the features of the structure as a whole and all its load-bearing elements. The question of the degree of complexity of the roof is inextricably linked constructive solution roofs After all, if use of hard fastenings are undesirable, it turns out that the construction of the roof should be as simple as possible. But simplest option- a gable roof with slopes of equal length and slope is a thing of the past, and for specialists high level there is nothing difficult in building a roof for yours. In wooden house construction today, almost all types of coverings for pitched roofs are in demand and there are no barriers to their use. Choice roofing- a matter of taste between the client and the architect.

A gable roof on a log house is the most common solution, which allows for rapid snow removal and does not require particularly complex installation. With this roof structure, you can use any covering materials: wave slate, metal tiles, ondulin and other materials. A gable rafter roof is a complex structure that includes many elements. The security and durability of the building depends on its reliability and correct design.

Calculation of a gable roof

Any construction begins with calculations and design. The most important parameter When constructing a roof, its slope is important: timely precipitation depends on it. If a house is being built in an arid region with a small snow load, the recommended roof slope is 25-40 degrees, and if the area is characterized by snowy winters, then roofs are built with a slope of 45-60 degrees.

The greater the roof slope, the more material will be required to cover it, and the cost will increase accordingly. Besides, big slope increases windage, which is a negative factor with constant strong winds. You have to choose optimal solution so that the snow does not linger on the roof, and there is no serious damage from the wind.

In addition, if metal tiles or slate are used as roofing material, the slope, according to technological standards, should not be less than 22 degrees, otherwise moisture will accumulate between the elements of the roofing material.

Arrangement of the rafter system

Gable roof rafter system - complex design from many elements. The main shape is a triangle: the side edges are called rafter legs; the sheathing is subsequently attached to them, on which the roofing material will be laid.

Upper horizontal line the roof is called the ridge, the side parts of the roof protruding beyond the walls are called overhangs. The purpose of overhangs is to protect walls from flowing moisture. The rafter system can be presented in two options:

• Hanging rafters. This system consists of roof trusses, which are assembled on the ground and installed ready-made on the roof. The truss includes side rafter legs; they are connected by an upper frame and a bottom frame.

The lower horizontal beam simultaneously becomes ceiling beam. The distance between roof trusses is 1-1.2 meters.

With such a system, the maximum load is on the walls, this type rafters are used most often in buildings large area with large spans without internal load-bearing walls. Often these are industrial and agricultural buildings.

• Layered rafters. This option is most often used in country houses: the main weight of the rafters falls not on the walls, but on the ridge girder. This is a horizontal beam that is installed on supports attached to the internal wall of the house.

The design allows to reduce the load on the external walls. Vertical racks on the inside load-bearing wall are mounted in increments of 4-6 meters, and a ridge beam is attached to them.

In big country house with complex layouts, both types of rafters can be used. If the building has large rooms without internal partitions, hanging rafters are used for them, and, where possible, layered rafters.

Stages of roof construction

It is quite possible to erect a gable roof with your own hands with the help of several people. If you have carpentry skills and experience, this work will not take much time. However, if you have not dealt with construction before, it is advisable to entrust all calculations to professionals.

For the construction of the roofing system, only 1-2 grades of lumber are used, it is important to choose quality wood without rot. All wooden elements rafter system must be treated with antiseptics.

A wooden frame is convenient in that the role of a mauerlat (supporting beam) is played by the upper crown. It is to this that the ends of the rafter legs will be attached. The main stages of constructing a layered roof for a wooden house:

The roof of houses is gable - a common solution that is widely used in suburban construction. This is the simplest option for installing a roof, which allows you to protect it from snow and wind and ensure durability and strength. At correct installation repair roofing system will be needed very soon.

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his own home. According to their reviews, erecting a roof yourself is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage with a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To understand how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, work order and features of fastening all components of the structure.

Types of roofs

First you need to decide on the form. Today the most popular types are:

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, the labor intensity of the work will be minimal and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is installed much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the hipped one, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.

Before you begin to independently construct a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. This system has more elements compared to the previous two. In addition, it is not possible to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure does not have gables and installation is difficult or cannot be avoided.

For the attic excellent option there will be a combined design with . In this case, in the lower part the roof has a greater slope than in the upper section. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the constructed house more comfortable.

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate the cross sections of all elements. In most cases they can be accepted constructively:

• Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm depending on the cross-section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account ease of connection with the rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• purlins - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• overlays with thickness from 32 to 50 mm.

Calculations are usually performed only for rafter and slope legs. It is necessary to select the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• roofing material;
• snow area;
• pitch of rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay insulation, for mineral wool there should be 58 cm of clearance between the elements);
• span.

You can select the cross-section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case it is recommended to make a small reserve.

If you don’t want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you plan to make a warm roof, then the height of the cross-section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, provision is made for installing a counter-lattice (counter battens).

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

The sequence of stages of roof construction is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, treatment of wood with antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof using racks, struts and tie-downs;
7. waterproofing;
8. sheathing;
9. providing ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. installation of coating.

Fastening the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to ensure that it is securely connected to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - this element is the upper crown made of timber or logs. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often called sleds. This type of roof arrangement allows the entire structure to shift slightly as the walls shrink without destruction or deformation.

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the Mauerlat will be top harness walls It is attached to the frame posts with a gash using angles, staples or nails.

The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to place the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on stiletto heels;
• on anchor bolts.

The Mauerlat can be secured to brackets. In this case, in the masonry with inside lay wooden blocks. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the same block in the masonry. The method can also be considered simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

When installing the roof yourself, fastening can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The fasteners are laid in the masonry. The Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the sawn-off edge and lightly hit with a hammer. After this, indentations remain on the beam at the fastening points. You need to make holes for the studs along them. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete with a monolithic reinforced belt.

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform it using rigid fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and hanging system. The design involves two methods:

• with notch;
• without cutting.

In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the mauerlat. To remove the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the assembly should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will be more reliable if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the beams themselves provide the frame extension. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high precision. It is suitable for beginners. In this case, stop bars or boards are used to ensure a tight fit to the Mauerlat. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed metal corners on both sides.

Attaching rafters to the wall

The completed frame must be secured to the frame of the building - this will prevent a strong gust of wind from tearing off the roof. To do this, the rule is to use a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg where it rests on the mauerlat, and then the wire is attached to the wall with an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in the masonry in advance.

For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that such the method will work, only if the walls are made of wood.

Strengthening the system

How to strengthen the frame for spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this purpose, struts and racks are used. Reinforcement must be done taking into account the layout; it is important that these elements do not interfere with people’s stay and fit harmoniously into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. The racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce the thrust. Because of it, the rafters can simply move apart. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two ties, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out using screws, nails or studs.

At the top point, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge girder. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross-section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

Lathing

Before starting work at this stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor diffusion moisture-proof membrane. It costs more than plastic film, but provides more reliable protection. Owning your own home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fastening of the sheathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a sparse sheathing of boards 32-40 mm thick will be sufficient. Under bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing made of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding with the roofing stage, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect structures from mold, mildew and destruction.

For ventilation you need to provide:

• air flow through the cornice (the cornice is hemmed with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
• air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​the ridge (for this, a ridge and/or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roof covering

The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth studying the manufacturers’ proposals and finding out the permissible slope. For example, it is not recommended to lay bitumen shingles on a slope of more than 45°.

The flooring material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.