Today, drywall is extremely popular in construction. It is used for the construction of thick soundproof walls, light and thin partitions, some decorative elements interior Its use as facing material due to the ease of working with it. It can be easily processed with any tools. If necessary, grooves or any shaped holes can be milled into its gypsum structure. Partitions made from plasterboard are light and very durable, which, of course, depends on the correct installation technology, frame construction and choice of materials.

Choosing a material for installing a gypsum board partition

Before you start building plasterboard partitions, you need to choose a material. First of all, you should decide on the purpose of the structure, its location and conditions of use:

1. If the partition is installed in a room in which there is constant moisture of at least 70%, then a moisture-resistant one should be used. To distinguish it from the usual one, just look at the color of the cardboard. Moisture-resistant drywall has a green outer layer of paper. And this is perhaps the only sign by which you can outwardly recognize or see the difference. But the Knauf company claims that its structure is impregnated with special concentrates, and this makes it resistant to humid environments. Its hygroscopic ability is lost. But a plasterboard partition of this type will last a long time in a damp room and will not change its parameters. Such sheets are marked GKLV. It should also be considered important property moisture-resistant sheets are resistant, or, more precisely, the impossibility of the formation of fungi and mold on them as a result of the action of moisture. The manufacturer was able to achieve this by impregnating the sheets with antiseptic preparations, and impregnated and moisture-resistant compounds resist water. Also, a significant difference between gypsum boards and conventional ones is their greater weight and, of course, cost.
2. If you install a plasterboard partition with your own hands not only in a humid environment, but also in a fire hazardous environment, for example, in a kitchen, then gypsum plasterboard should be used. These sheets of drywall are impregnated with compounds that prevent combustion. The main difference from regular and moisture resistant is external sign– the color of the cardboard, which is red. You can also see the differences in the color of the gypsum filler on the section. It differs in cost and will be more expensive than both the regular and moisture-resistant options.
3. If you need to design plasterboard partitions with your own hands in an ordinary room with normal conditions (humidity no more than 70% and temperature no higher than 30 and no lower than 5 ° C), then you can use ordinary gypsum board sheets. They have the main difference from others in color - they are covered with cardboard gray. These sheets are not impregnated with any moisture-resistant or fire-resistant compounds, which is why their cost is the lowest. They are widely used in hallways, living rooms, bedrooms and other rooms. They process equally well, so if the conditions are normal, there are no sources of moisture or fire, then it is not worth paying more just because of the resistance properties. When purchasing such a sheet you will save up to 30%.

Sheets are available in several thicknesses: 6.5 mm, 9 mm and 12.5 mm. In this case, the first standard size corresponds to materials with increased flexibility. It has fiberglass inside that holds the plaster in place when it gets wet. After all, to bend it into an arc it must be saturated with moisture. The second type is used for ceilings, so we choose the third standard size of 12.5 mm. The length can be either 2.5 or 4.8 m; mainly only the first option is on sale. If a large-sized plasterboard partition is required, the sheets can be ordered from the manufacturer according to individual measurements.

Selecting material for mounting the frame

To make a partition from plasterboard, it is also necessary to resolve the issue of frame material. It can be made of either a metal profile or wood. When solving this problem, you should consider some factors:

• environmental humidity;
• temperature regime;

If there are frequent changes in humidity in the room, then using a wooden frame will lead to constant movement. Due to the frequent swelling and drying of wood, the putty will simply crumble from the joints of gypsum board sheets. And then the plasterboard partitions you made yourself will become unusable. They will need to be demolished and rebuilt from a metal profile.

The same will happen in rooms with high temperatures with partitions made of wood. If the installation of plasterboard partitions was carried out with under-dried beams, then after they dry, irreversible changes will occur in the structure: the sheets may move or move apart, warp or even break. In addition, wood is prone to cracking, which is also very undesirable when building a partition from gypsum plasterboard.

Interior partitions self-construction, the frame of which is made of wooden beam, less resistant to deformation and tension. In both cases, cracking may occur in the places where the screws are twisted, which will render the entire structure unusable.

So, why do some people choose to install plasterboard partitions with a wooden frame? The answer to this question is quite simple and lies only in the price and availability of the material. But, given the hassle with it, the price indicator still cannot change the comparative bar towards wood. In addition, before installation, the bars must be well treated with antiseptic compounds, which, at a cost, will result in a metal profile for partitions.

Advantages of a metal profile as a frame for a partition

Interior partitions made of plasterboard with a frame made of metal profiles have all the necessary properties for long-lasting and unchanging existence throughout the entire service life of the entire building. Galvanized metal does not rust from moisture, unless you take into account the joints and piercing points with a cutter. The metal profile does not burn, but in the event of a fire you will still have to rebuild the partition. And this is inevitable. The metal structure will not crack or fall apart over time. In addition, the most complex partition can be made from the profile, which you can make yourself. The metal is easy to process, and can be used for joining, and if necessary, the material can be bent into any shape.

The profile width can be any of the existing set: 50, 75 and 100 mm. It depends on the purpose of the partition and its technical characteristics.

If any communications will be laid in the partition, then it is necessary to use a profile with special grooves. This will eliminate the need to make holes yourself.

Rivets, cutter or self-tapping screws

We have already found out which profile to use for plasterboard partitions. Other questions remain to be answered.

How to make a partition from plasterboard, and how to connect the profiles to each other? These questions are next on the list, so first let’s figure out what is the best way to connect the profile.

Today, three types of metal profile connections are used:

1. Self-tapping screws.
2. Rivets.
3. Notcher, punching with bending.

The first two methods are the most common for installing partitions, although they are much more complicated than the latter. Firstly, hardware is required: self-tapping screws, screws, etc. Secondly, it is necessary additional tool– because you can’t twist it with your hands. And for fastening using the second method, you will need, respectively, a drill, rivets and a riveter. All this requires additional costs. Such a not so simple tool as a cutter can solve these problems. He punches a hole and bends its edges into different sides. This results in a fairly reliable connection.

An alternative to choosing a frame installation method

The best option would be a mixed fastening, that is, all facial connections must be made using a cutter. And hidden and most important in terms of loads - with self-tapping screws or rivets. What is the advantage of a cutter when used on the front parts of a structure? And the answer is quite simple and lies in the absence of protruding elements, such as screw heads or rivets. Combined method installation helps answer the question: “How to make a plasterboard partition with high quality and so that the plane is perfectly flat?”

Installation of plasterboard partitions with a metal frame

The construction of partitions with a metal frame is quite simple. But for a high-quality final result, it is necessary to follow some rules and take into account all the nuances when carrying out installation.

In the following figure you can see the structure of plasterboard partitions; the following elements can be distinguished:

1. A frame consisting of guides and racks.
2. The cladding can be multi-layered depending on the purpose of the partition.
3. Insulation or sound insulator.

Also, the partition may contain parts of communications hidden inside it. Which, by the way, are the advantages of plasterboard structures.

Partition installation technology

When making interior partitions from plasterboard with your own hands, you must adhere to the following instructions:

The guide profile is also used to create lintels or shelves that hold adjacent racks together. It must be strictly horizontal.

Sheathing of the structure

An interior partition made of plasterboard must be strong, therefore, when sheathing a gypsum board structure, there should not be more than one joint on one rack profile. Drywall must be placed in a checkerboard pattern with 50% overlap of the adjacent sheet.

You should also remember the need to move the joint of the sheets closer to the edge above the doors. This is one of the nuances that must be considered at the stage of creating a structure from a metal profile.

If the profile for drywall was attached using a cutter, then the surface always remains flat and smooth. If self-tapping screws were used, then because of their heads, when the cord is tensioned, deviations of several millimeters will be visible in the places where the sheets are fastened to the profile.

The step of fixing the gypsum board to the profile should be no more than 50 cm with a sheet thickness of at least 12.5 mm. This must be taken into account when installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands. At increased load on the wall it should be reduced.

The installation of a plasterboard partition ends with sealing the seams, which are covered with putty. Be sure to put reinforcing tape made of mesh at the joints with a window of 3 to 5 mm. It is also recommended to first seal all the heads of the screws that were used to fasten the sheets before subsequent finishing. To calculate required material for the partition, use ours.

Video: PARTITION made of plasterboard, double CD profile. Partition wall, plasterboard.

Video: How to make a partition from plasterboard

In this article we will study the structure of plasterboard partitions and step by step explore the process of their construction. In addition, we are interested in the pros and cons plasterboard structures inside an apartment or private house.

Light partitions when changing the layout are almost always made of plasterboard. We will try to find out how justified the use of this material is.

Drywall or alternatives

Let's first give an assessment of drywall as a material for internal partitions in a residential area. Perhaps it is really worth looking for alternatives?

Advantages

• High speed of construction. Thanks to the solid dimensions of the plasterboard sheet, partitions can be erected in just a couple of days.
• Minimization of wet finishing processes. To Work with cement mortar you won't have to at all; gypsum plaster Doesn't leave as much dirt in the house.

However: dust, inevitable when cutting drywall, gets clogged into all corners of the apartment. It is better to keep doors and windows closed during work. In addition, all consumer electronics (primarily computers and laptops with their active cooling systems) are completely de-energized and covered with any fabric or, better yet, polyethylene.

• The material is fire resistant. Gypsum, which makes up most of its volume, does not burn and has poor thermal conductivity.
• Soundproofing it will be good even without adding insulation to the partitions.
• The cavities inside the walls accommodate electrical wiring and water distribution. Of course, the frame should initially be installed with the purpose of laying communications in mind.
• Light weight means minimizing the load on the floors.

In the case of a private house with wooden floors The mass of the septum is an important factor.

• Last but not least, the material does not emit any volatiles into the atmosphere harmful substances.

Flaws

Drywall has two serious disadvantages:

1. Low mechanical strength. It is not difficult to break a single sheet of drywall, simply by leaning on it with all your weight or by hitting it with a fairly massive object.
2. Low resistance to water. Even moisture resistant drywall will become unusable with prolonged contact with it.

In addition, a plasterboard wall requires finishing- albeit not too labor-intensive.

Related articles:

Alternatives

What, exactly, can be used instead of drywall?

• Laminated chipboard used to finish the lower part of the walls. She provides, along with decent appearance much greater strength: it is very difficult to accidentally damage such a wall.
• Plywood- even more reliable material. You can safely hang cabinets, including quite massive ones, on a wall made of fairly thick plywood; it is also quickly mounted on the frame and is quite easy to process. However, its price, with a thickness comparable to plasterboard, is approximately twice as much.
• Finally, for interior partitions it is easy to use MDF wall panels. The obvious disadvantage is that the mechanical strength is as low as that of drywall. Plus, they cost about the same amount as 10mm plywood of the same area.

However, we will already receive finished wall, which does not require painting or finishing.

Installation diagram

How is a plasterboard partition constructed?

The most popular plasterboard partition design involves vertical installation of solid sheets. The frame is made vertical, from CW rack profiles, which are fixed to UW guide profiles running along the floor and ceiling.

Horizontal frame elements, in addition to guides, are used to frame openings and arches. The guides are attached to the ceilings with dowel-nails or anchors. A sound-absorbing tape made of polyurethane foam or foam rubber is used as a damper designed to dampen shock vibrations.

The rules for installing drywall are common to all structures made from it:

• Adjacent edges of adjacent sheets must be attached to one profile.
• Between the sheets there are gaps of 3-5 millimeters for putty.
• The seams are reinforced with fiberglass mesh during the plastering process and/or bandaged with paper tape.
• The attachment points of the frame to the ceiling should be located at a distance of no more than a meter. Optimally - 60 cm. In addition, each separate element The structure must be secured with at least three dowels or anchors.
• If it is necessary to splice the profiles to a greater length, they are fastened with at least three self-tapping screws.
• The distance between the standing profiles should be no more than 60 centimeters.

Advice: it is better to install risers with a gap of exactly 40 centimeters along the axes. The rigidity of the structure will be greater. In addition, the width of the sheet will be a multiple of the distance between the risers, and the edges of adjacent sheets will fall on one profile without additional adjustment.

Reinforced and wide partitions

If there is a need for a partition with greater mechanical strength, fire resistance or soundproofing qualities, when there are communications located inside it that occupy large space perhaps a complicated arrangement of plasterboard partitions.

1. One row of risers can be covered with two layers of plasterboard. This scheme, among other things, avoids the appearance of cracks at the joints of the sheets. There must be overlap between the layers: the joints are attached to different profiles.
2. If it is necessary to place risers for water supply or kitchen (diameter 40-50 millimeters) sewerage inside the partition, it can be built frame from two rows of standing profiles, sewn together end-to-end with self-tapping screws.
3. Finally, if a 90- or 110-mm sewer riser, two rows of vertical profiles are located at a distance from each other. They can be connected to each other not only with segments of the same profile, but also with strips of drywall.

Work order

What is the technology for making plasterboard partitions with your own hands?

Frame

1. The axis of the partition is marked on the floor. It's easier to do this with a chop cord. Then the markings are transferred to adjacent walls and ceilings. Mutual arrangement markings are checked by level and plumb.
2. UW profiles with laid or glued soundproofing tape are attached to the ceiling and floor. As already mentioned, the optimal fastening pitch is 60 centimeters.
3. CW standing profiles are marked and cut in place. For reliable fastening, they must extend into the UW ceiling profile by at least two centimeters. Fastening - with metal screws (“fleas”) on both sides of each profile. The wall riser is attached to the wall in increments of no more than a meter using the same dowels or anchors; A soundproofing tape is also laid under it.
4. The opening MUST be edged with a profile around the perimeter. If you plan to install a door, its frame is exposed and attached to the profile immediately after installing the frame, before covering it with plasterboard.

Attaching the standing profile to the guide is strictly on both sides.

Related articles:

Sheathing

If trimming is necessary, sheets are marked on the floor or a wide table. Using a square to check right angles is mandatory.

Please note: one of the advantages of drywall is that it allows for fairly large cutting tolerances. Even a three-centimeter gap can be easily filled with putty using reinforcing mesh. Therefore, do not be afraid to make a mistake with the sizes - nothing fatal will happen.

How to cut drywall?

1. The sheet is cut along the cutting line sharp knife and breaks. Then the cardboard is cut off from the second side.
2. A jigsaw produces more dust and, often, less straight line cutting However, if you are afraid to break a sheet, it is quite possible to saw it off.
3. Finally, you can cut with regular sawing hand saw. Both gypsum core and cardboard are VERY easy to cut.

Curvilinear cutting lines are made with a narrow hand saw or jigsaw. Holes for sockets are chosen, as a rule, identical in a fairly large number. For them, it is better to purchase a crown of the appropriate diameter.

After trimming, the edges are processed with a flat or rounded (depending on the shape of the cutting line) rasp. The edge is made straight and even; the edges of the sheets intended for joining are chamfered.

On long straight sections, it is more convenient to remove the chamfer with a plane - manual or electric.

How to bend a plasterboard sheet when making an arch or other curved surface?

1. Roll the side of the sheet that will shrink when bent with a needle roller and wet it several times until the plaster is completely saturated with water. Then dry on the template or directly on the final installation site.
2. Make frequent transverse cuts with outside sheet and secure it to the profile. The cuts are leveled when the surface is puttied.

The sheets are screwed to EACH profile in increments of 25 centimeters. On curved surfaces the step is reduced to 15 cm; with a two-layer sheathing, it is permissible to fasten the first layer in increments of 75 cm. The length of the screws is selected so that they extend into the profile by at least a centimeter.

After covering the partition on one side, if necessary, insulation is laid - polystyrene foam or basalt wool.

After finishing the fastening, all the caps should be recessed into the drywall by about a millimeter: they should be hidden with putty.

Sealing seams

There are two main ways to putty seams so that after a couple of years cracks do not appear in their place.

1. The seam is glued with serpyanka - a reinforcing tape made of fiberglass mesh, then puttyed with gypsum putty directly through it.
2. The seam is puttied without reinforcement; After drying, the putty is sanded with a mesh float and bandaged with paper tape. The tape is glued with PVA glue or its water solution and stretched with a spatula; excess glue is removed with a sponge.

With a two-layer sheathing, it is theoretically possible to do without reinforcement or banding. In practice... Costs are low; At the same time, you reliably protect the wall from the appearance of cracks due to any deformation. Why not?

At the same stage, the self-tapping screws are puttied. There are no special tricks here: putty twice (since plaster shrinks a little when dried), then sanded.

CONSTRUCTION DEPARTMENT

SCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL MANAGEMENT

MOSSTROYLICENZIYA

INSTRUCTIONS
INSTALLATION AND FINISHING TECHNOLOGY
PREFABRICATED GYPSOCARDBOARD PARTITIONS
ON A METAL FRAME
ELEMENT-BASED ASSEMBLY

VSN 27-95

Moscow - 1995

Instructions for the technology of installation and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on a metal frame of element-by-element assembly were developed by NIIMosstroy of the Construction Department (Dr. Sc., Prof. E. D. Belousov, engineer A. N. Shevchenko, engineer A. Yu. Satirsky, candidate of technical sciences Ya. G. Mogilevsky) with the participation of Mosstroylicense (Yu. I. Stolyarov and candidate of technical sciences V. D. Feldman). The instructions were agreed upon with the Technical Department of JSC Holding Company Glavmosstroy and JSC Trust Mosspetsmontazh "When using these instructions, you should take into account the approved changes made to the standards and technical specifications for materials used in the installation and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on a metal frame of element-by-element assembly.

1. GENERAL PROVISIONS

2. TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR MATERIALS USED FOR CONSTRUCTING PRECAST plasterboard partitions

2.1. Frame materials

2.2. Structural and finishing material

2.3. Materials for sound insulation and sealing

3. TRANSPORTATION AND STORAGE OF ASSEMBLY ELEMENTS OF GYPSOCARDBOARD PARTITIONS

4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SOUND INSULATION AND FIRE RESISTANCE OF PREFABRICATED plasterboard partitions

5. TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLATION TECHNOLOGY OF INTERNAL ENCLOSING STRUCTURES FROM GYPSUM CARDBOARD SHEETS ON A METAL FRAME OF ELEMENT-BASED ASSEMBLY

6. REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLATION OF ELECTRICAL AND SANITARY EQUIPMENT IN PREFABRICATED plasterboard partitions

7. REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLATION OF SOUND INSULATION MATERIALS

8. REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLATION OF GYPSUM CARDBOARD SHEETS ON A METAL FRAME

9. QUALITY REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLED PREFABRICATED GYPSOCARDBOARD PARTITIONS

10. REQUIREMENTS FOR SURFACE FINISHING TECHNOLOGY OF PREFABRICATED GYPSOCARDBOARD PARTITIONS

11. BASIC PROVISIONS ON SAFETY REQUIREMENTS DURING WORK

Today the most popular method of device interior partitions– installation of plasterboard systems.

And this is not at all surprising:

• low cost of basic materials;
• high speed of installation work;
• relative ease of assembly; if desired, everything can be done with your own hands and without helpers;
• many design options;
• low weight of structures.

And it is worth noting that in addition to all these qualities, the installation of plasterboard partitions can be done at a variety of facilities. Let's talk a little about this.

Where and how can plasterboard partitions be used?

In fact, it is, of course, impossible to list all the areas of application, but basically such partitions are made:

1. in apartments and private houses;
2. V office buildings and government agencies;
3. in entertainment and shopping centers;
4. in cafes and nightclubs.

Double skin partitions

The technology, when the partition frame is sheathed with two layers of sheets, can be used in several cases.

1. When you need to maximize the level of sound insulation between rooms. For example, these could be partitions between rooms in nightclubs.
2. When you need to make the wall plane very rigid. As clear example Again, we can cite discos, nightclubs, and places with high traffic volumes.
3. When, for one reason or another, it is impossible to make the frame itself sufficiently rigid. This is usually due to a lack of profiles for the structure or the use of low-quality metal. In such cases, the rigidity of the partition is achieved by screwing additional sheets on top of the main ones.

Now let's look at the classic design.

Standard partitions

Such systems are essentially a solid wall without additional reinforcements.

They can be installed in any room, but it is worth remembering a number of important points:

1. If the installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out in rooms with high humidity, for covering the frame should only be used moisture resistant sheets. (see also article)
2. The rules of technology should not be neglected. Be sure to place mineral wool inside the frame between sheets of drywall. Even if you don’t need to insulate anything. The fact is that creating an empty structure not only allows sounds to pass between rooms well, but also slightly enhances them. It's unlikely that you need such an effect.
3. If there will be a stove, heating boiler or fireplace near the partition, the frame must be sheathed with fire-resistant plasterboard.

Partitions with doorway

Tips for DIY arrangement:

Firstly, if a door is included in the design, the partition will vibrate slightly when opening. To prevent this “slightly” from becoming a problem, you need to fasten the metal to each other, to the walls, floor and ceiling really well, as required by technology!

Otherwise, all the connections of the structure will gradually loosen, and this threatens not just vibration, but also constant unpleasant sounds.

Secondly, additional reinforcement needs to be installed around the perimeter of the door. This is done using a strong beam, which is inserted into internal sides profile around the entire perimeter of the door. That's what you need to screw it to. interior doors. It will be strong and reliable!

Now let’s look at what a craftsman will need to install a plasterboard partition on his own.

Necessary equipment

From Supplies In addition to plasterboard sheets, we will need:

• guide (marked CW) and load-bearing (UW) profile for partitions. The photo clearly shows what these materials look like;

• a set of self-tapping screws for installing plasterboard systems;
• mineral wool in rolls.

Regarding the last point, you can also find denser mineral wool in sheets on the market. Its effect in terms of heat and sound insulation is better, but it also costs an order of magnitude more. And as practice shows, standard cotton wool in rolls is quite enough to create a normal insulating layer.

Advice! Be careful when buying self-tapping screws, use products from good manufacturers.

Now about the tool:

• hammer drill and screwdriver;
• grinder and metal scissors;
• set of screwdrivers and hammer;
• square, rule with level and construction thread;
• pencil and upholstery cord with paint;
• roulette;
• ladder.

Tip: If the price of a power tool isn't right for you, you can always save money and rent one.

So, let’s assume that we have everything to carry out the work, let’s consider the rules that the assembly instructions contain.

Partition installation

As an illustrative example, consider a standard one-piece “wall to wall” structure without openings, shelves, or niches.

First of all, you need to make markings. At this stage you need to be as patient and attentive as possible, since this is the very case when it is better to “measure 7 times and cut once.”

Marking

1. We determine the point that will be the starting point for the line of the future frame.
2. We put a mark on the ceiling near one of the walls of the room.
3. Place a mark on the ceiling near the second wall and use upholstery cord to connect the dots.
4. Using a square, we check whether we have drawn the line correctly.
5. Using a plumb line and upholstery cord, transfer the line to the floor.
6. We connect the edges of the top and bottom lines along the walls.

At this point, the marking is completed, we have received the drawn perimeter of the future partition, along which we will now attach the guide profile.

Frame assembly

1. We measure the distance along the floor and ceiling from wall to wall, as well as the height of each wall.
2. In accordance with the obtained figures, we prepare profiles of the required size.
3. We place them on the plane, drill the walls and nail them with quick installation.

But now you need to prepare marks in order to determine the place of insertion of vertical posts and CW profiles.

This is done quite simply.

We place marks along the guide profile along the plane of the ceiling every 60 cm. Using a plumb line, we duplicate them onto the horizontal profile at the bottom of the frame. Focusing on these points, we will mount the pillar profiles.

Why exactly 60 centimeters?

Because we will attach the sheets to the frame at their full height and we need to have a stand along each edge of the sheet and its middle, and the width of the sheet is 120 cm.

Let's start installing the racks.

1. Relative to the set points, we measure the height near each future rack.
2. Cut the profile to the required length. If the ceiling height larger size profile, there are special adapters on sale for fastening the racks together. However, it is better to use longer racks (they come in 3.4 and 6 m) and not use adapters so that the racks do not have weak points.
3. We insert the supporting profile into the grooves of the guides and connect them.
4. We do the same along the entire guide line.

The frame is almost ready. Almost, because you will also need horizontal jumpers, which will need to be inserted between the pillars in those places where the sheets of drywall will touch.

But you can do it differently and immediately screw the metal, and then we will “adjust” the size of the sheets to the jumpers.

It is advisable to place the jumpers not only at the boundaries of the sheets, but also every 50 cm from bottom to top, so the frame will be stiffer and the sheets are guaranteed not to bend inside the structure.

The process of making jumpers is very simple. In essence, this is a regular piece of supporting profile with small “lips” at both ends. The “lip” is needed so that the supporting profile fits comfortably into the grooves of the jumper and so that there is a point where the screws actually need to be screwed in.

You need to understand what will be attached to the partition in the future. If you plan to hang an air conditioner or shelves on its plane, you need to make one more additional embedded lintel from a strong wooden beam.

Did you make jumpers and screw them on?

Then let's get started last stage assemblies.

Frame covering

This is actually the fastest and easiest step. It is generally accepted that assembling the partition frame is 75% of the entire work, the rest is cladding.

We won’t explain how to screw sheets to metal, but rather we’ll talk about a few important points, which should not be forgotten.

1. Before covering, plan where the switches and sockets will be located, and in accordance with this plan, insert the cable inside the frame.
2. Mineral wool is laid only after the frame is covered with sheets on one side.

1. Use exactly as many self-tapping screws per sheet as required by the technology. As a rule, along the middle of each sheet you can see marks that show how far apart the screws should be located (approximately every 20 cm).
2. Don’t forget to screw in the screws all the way so that there are no protruding heads; this will get in the way when puttingtying the surface.

It is impossible to “recess” the screws into the sheet too much, as this will break the edge of the gypsum board and, accordingly, the strength of the connection will be compromised.

1. And here it is also very important to follow several rules:
2. It is necessary to clean the plane of the partition from dust and thoroughly prime the drywall. Acrylic primer is best suited for this.

1. All seams must first be treated with a special glue, which is applied to the reinforcing mesh.

Each subsequent layer can be applied only when the previous one has completely (!) dried.

Only in this way, following the rules of technology and the recommendations of experienced craftsmen, will you get a good and high-quality result.

Conclusion We hope that you understand the technology of constructing plasterboard partitions and all described key points

. Well, if some points still remain unclear, we recommend watching the video at the end of the article - this is an excellent addition to the instructions provided.

We wish you successful, high-quality and, of course, fast repairs!

Photo gallery To date ideal option A simple redevelopment of the house is to install a partition made of plasterboard. Installation of prefabricated wall panels considered more acceptable and economically profitable solution

than the process of building walls using bricks or blocks. Moreover, this technology is not particularly difficult and it is accessible to anyone who can work with power tools and has at least some understanding of plasterboard sheets.

Drywall is a material that is a gypsum layer lined on both sides with cardboard. GCR is made of special building gypsum, which allows you to both absorb excess moisture, and give it back. The material is non-toxic and has enhanced fire-resistant characteristics. Used for the construction of internal partitions, wall cladding and suspended ceilings.

Design features of plasterboard partitions

The construction of plasterboard wall partitions comes in three types, the choice and arrangement of which depends on the purpose of the room:

1. Simple. This technology involves covering a metal frame with one sheet of plasterboard.
2. Reinforced. In this case, to install plasterboard wall panels, it is assumed that the frame is covered with plasterboard on both sides.
3. Reinforced. Reinforced metal structure has double plasterboard sheathing.

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Partition device

Main structural element Interior plasterboard wall panels are a rigid metal frame consisting of steel profiles. During installation, several types of profiles are used, each of which is designed for a specific type of load. The frame element is made of cold-rolled steel strip, the width of which varies from 0.55...0.8 mm. They are galvanized to protect them from environmental influences. In addition to resistance to such influences, the profiles can withstand sufficient load when attaching additional finishing and various hanging elements

. For this purpose, they are provided with stiffening ribs.

1. The following profiles are used to assemble the frame: "PS" - rack profile, used as vertical stand
2. , onto which the gypsum board is subsequently attached. Its cross-section has the form of a channel.

“PN” - used as a guide base for rack profiles or as a jumper between them. It also has a channel-shaped section. In some cases, for sound and heat insulation, it is laid special material

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. Drywall partitions typically use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, which is a thermoplastic foam (2% plastic and 98% air).

Installation of drywall to the frame Before proceeding with the installation of drywall, you should complete the installation of ventilation, electrical and plumbing work