Part 1
General information. The walls in the premises are partially or completely covered with glazed ceramic tiles.
Rows of tiles are placed staggered on the surface to be tiled (Fig. 99, A) with offset vertical seams in each horizontal row; seam to seam (Fig. 99, b) with a rectangular mesh of horizontal and vertical seams; diagonally (Fig. 99, V) with mutually perpendicular seam lines running obliquely to the floor plane.
Rice. 99. Wall cladding staggered ( A), seam to seam ( b) and diagonally ( V)
Wall cladding begins with hanging - temporarily securing the vertical surface with mortar marks or nails. The height of each brand is 7-15 mm, which corresponds to the layer of solution under facing tiles. Individual surface unevenness and deviations from the vertical of more than 15 mm are corrected with cement mortar without smoothing or grouting. On concrete surfaces For better fastening of the tiles, a notch is made. The surfaces to be coated are cleaned of solution drips, dirt, dust and washed with water. Grease stains are removed by washing the contaminated surface with a 2-3% solution of hydrochloric acid or 5% soda ash solution.
Coverage marking. First, the contours of the surface to be coated are determined. The bottom of the cladding is located at the level of the finished floor. To do this, lay out the first row dry, starting from the middle of the wall, and determine the required number of tiles.
To determine the vertical contours of the surface to be tiled, steel pins 1 are driven in at opposite ends of the wall above the top of the future cladding (Fig. 100). From them, cords 2 are pulled plumb and secured to pins driven into the floor. These cords, which fix the direction of the vertical seam and side faces cladding, preserved until the end of work. A gap is left between the adjacent wall and the tensioned cord that is less than the thickness of the corner shaped tiles. The edge of the facing does not reach the cord by 3-4 mm, but this will not interfere with checking the verticality of the seam.
Rice. 100. Wall cladding in premises: 1 - steel pins, 2 - cord stretched plumb, 3 - rail installed at floor level, 4 - lighthouse tiles, 5 - pin for fastening the mooring, 6 - mooring cord
In a room where floors are not laid, the lower beacon row of wall cladding is supported by rail 3, the height of which is equal to the thickness of the floor. The tiles are laid along a stretched mooring cord attached to the pins, after which the position of the horizontal and vertical seams is marked. After checking the surface of the cladding, beacons are installed in the corners, retreating from the corners by the width of the tile. If the length of the surface to be coated is more than 4 m, intermediate beacons are installed. Lighthouse tiles are fixed with cement mortar at the upper corners of the surface to be tiled at the beginning and end of the upper and middle rows of cladding and aligned along a vertical cord installed in the plane of the lower lighthouse row.
Wall cladding is done from bottom to top in horizontal rows. In each row, the outer tiles are first installed and the mooring cord is pulled along them. When installing tiles, check the verticality of the seams, and check the surface of the cladding according to the rule. The remaining rows of tiles are laid in the same order.
Laying tiles. Before cladding begins, the surface of the wall is moistened with water using a paintbrush. This will reduce the absorption of moisture from the mortar layer and increase the adhesion strength of the cladding to the base. Before laying, the back surface of the tile is cleaned of dust with a damp rag, and then the same side is rubbed over the mortar (Fig. 101, A), located in the box. This treatment of the back side of the tile increases the adhesion strength to the mortar layer. Then a solution in the form of a truncated pyramid is applied to one of the corners of the back side. Excess mortar is cut off with a spatula (Fig. 101, b), so that when laying there are no voids left under the tiles.
To apply a uniform layer of mortar to the tiles, use template frame 5 (Fig. 101, V) With square hole measuring 145x145 mm, framed at the bottom with sides 15 mm high. A solution is applied to the tile pressed against the sides of the template, leveling the surface with the edge of a spatula (Fig. 101, G). In this case, along the edges of the back side of the tile, 5 mm wide strips not filled with mortar remain (Fig. 101, d).
Rice. 101. Applying mortar to the back of the tile using a spatula ( A, b) and template frame ( V - d)
A- moistening the back surface with a solution, b- leveling the solution with a spatula, V- placing tiles to the bottom of the template, G- leveling the applied mortar, d- tiles prepared for laying; 1 - mortar, 2 - tile, 3 - layer of mortar on the back side of the tile, 4 - box with mortar, 5 - template frame, 6 - template edge, 7 - stripes not filled with mortar
Preparatory work
First, the surface is cleaned of solution drips and dust. It is washed with water and grease stains are removed. The verticality of the wall is checked and, if necessary, it is leveled. The same preparation is made for laying porcelain stoneware. Concrete surfaces, for example, when facing walls. columns or stairs must first be treated with concrete contact. Porcelain stoneware steps 1200x300 - the best collections and prices.
On concrete, brick and plastered bases for better fastening the tiles are notched. Wooden surface plastered using metal mesh. Wall cladding begins with hanging - temporarily securing the vertical surface with mortar marks or nails. The height of each mark is 7-15 mm, which corresponds to the layer of mortar under the facing tile. It should be remembered that the thickness of the mortar layer should not exceed the specified limits, neither less nor more than the larger side. If the layer is thicker, a water film may form on its surface, the tile will settle, and the strength of its adhesion to the layer will decrease, which can lead to peeling of the tile. If the layer is less than 7 mm, it will dehydrate (moisture will be taken up by the wall) and the strength of the solution will be insufficient. The consequences will be the same - the tiles will fall behind the wall.
Individual surface unevenness and deviations from the vertical that are more than 15 mm are corrected with cement mortar.
Defining the contours of the cladding
To mark the coating, first determine the contours of the surface to be coated. The bottom of the cladding is placed at the level of the finished floor. To do this, lay out the first row dry, starting from the middle of the wall, and determine the required number of tiles.
To determine the vertical contours, steel pins are driven in at opposite ends of the wall above the top of the future cladding. Cords are pulled plumb from them and secured to pins driven near the floor. These cords, which fix the direction of the vertical seam and the side edges of the cladding, are retained until the end of the work. A gap is left between the adjacent wall and the tensioned cord that is less than the thickness of the corner shaped tiles. Despite the fact that the edge of the facing will not reach the cord by 3-4 mm, this will not interfere with checking the verticality of the seam.
Marking the first row. In a room where floors are not laid, the lower lighthouse row of wall cladding is supported on a rail, the height of which is equal to the thickness of the floor.
Wall cladding (Fig. 2.11) is carried out from bottom to top in horizontal rows. A horizontal mooring line with a clamping coupling that allows its adjustment is attached to the stretched vertical cords. Before laying the rows, the surface of the walls is moistened with water.
Rice. 2.11, Wall cladding: 1 - support rail laid at the level of the finished floor; 2 - lighthouse tile; 3 - steel pin; 4 - cord stretched plumb; 5 - upper border of the cladding; 6 - mooring line; 7 - clamping coupling for fastening the mooring cord
Laying the first row of tiles
Having installed the mooring cord at the level of the top of the first row, lay the tiles starting from the middle of the wall.
Laying subsequent rows
In each row, the outermost (beacon) tiles are first installed, and the mooring cord is pulled along them. When laying tiles from the middle to the edges, control the verticality of the seams, and check the surface of the cladding according to the rule.
Techniques for laying tiles (Fig. 2.12)
Before laying, the back side of the tile is cleaned of dust and the same side is rubbed over the mortar. The solution is applied with a spatula. Holding the tile with the mortar in a horizontal position, they bring it to the place of installation, then quickly but carefully apply it to the base, first with one corner, where the mortar is applied thicker, and then with the entire plane.
Rice. 2.12. Laying tiles: a - moistening the back side of the tile with the solution; b - applying the solution; c - bringing the tiles to the place of installation; g - settling
When installing the tiles, they are oriented along the previously laid rows and along the stretched mooring cord. Then, with light blows from the handle of the spatula, the tiles are brought down to the level of the laid cladding. In this case, the solution fills the entire space between the back of the tile and the wall surface. Excess mortar protruding from under the tiles is trimmed off.
Cladding with widened seams (up to 3 mm)
To fix the same width of seams, steel staples, nails, and plastic crosses are used. They are placed between the horizontal and vertical edges of the tiles and removed after the mortar has set.
When connecting two facing surfaces, corner shaped tiles are laid. If they are absent, one of the walls is tiled up to the corner (Fig. 2.13), and the edges of incomplete tiles are covered with cladding of the adjacent wall.
Rice. 2.13. Width measurement: a - at the junction with the adjacent wall; b - cutting partial tiles
During tiling, the seams between the tiles are left unfilled to speed up the hardening of the mortar layer.
Finishing of the tiled surface
Joints are opened and filled with cement mortar or special mixtures for grouting. Finishing is completed by washing the surface with a brush or sponge and wiping.
Based on materials from the reference book " Interior decoration. Materials and Technologies"
Publishing house "Stroyinform"
Before you start tiling the walls cement mortar, they are hung using a plumb line or
vertical slats. Then, control tiles are fixed to the facing surface with gypsum mortar, which determine the level of future cladding (the so-called beacons or marks).
If the surface is small, four beacons, one each in the upper and lower corners of the surface, will be sufficient. First, they put one, then, determining the correctness of the plane using the rule (even strip) and level, the second (horizontally). The third and fourth beacons are adjusted in the same way. In this case, the thickness of the solution of the entire future cladding is taken into account - 10-15 mm. If the surface has a large area, the beacons are placed at least 50 cm apart from each other.
Then along the edges of the wall you need to place plumb slats ( wooden block cross-section approximately 40 x 40 mm and length 2 m). These slats are needed to attach a horizontal guide cord to them; Tiles are installed under the cord. After finishing covering the entire surface, the slats should be removed and their place should be filled with mortar tiles.
The amount of mortar should be sufficient to fill the entire space between the tiles and the surface to be tiled. To ensure that the width of the seams is the same throughout the cladding, it is recommended to use wedges as a template, having a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the seam (they are pulled out after the mortar has hardened). In cases where the cladding is done before laying the finished floors, under the first row of tiles it is necessary to lay wooden slats(at the level of the future clean floor).
The solution is placed on the back side of the tile in the form of a truncated pyramid and pressed against the wall. It is necessary to ensure that when planting and settling the tiles, the solution evenly fills the space under the entire tile.
The excess mortar squeezed out along the edges of the tile is cut off with a trowel, the tile is brought in a horizontal position to the wall and applied to the previously installed tile at the corner from which the mortar was previously cut (Fig. 54).
The thickness of the mortar should not exceed 15 mm, otherwise, when settling, water is released from it and remains between the layer of mortar and the tile, reducing their adhesion.
It is also not recommended to lay tiles and mortar whose layer is thinner than 7 mm, since the base and the tile itself quickly suck water out of it, making the mortar almost dry. It is for this reason that you should always wet each tile before sticking it to the wall.
After the mortar has hardened and the tiles are held firmly enough, you need to clear the horizontal and vertical joints and fill them with cement mortar prepared from 1 part cement and 1 part sand. It is better to use white cement, but you can use cement or gypsum dough. Ordinary gray cement is whitened with chalk or lime flour.
The seams are filled using a trowel or a shaped spatula, which must be covered with thin porous rubber (Fig. 55). Excess solution is removed again by wiping with a wet cloth.
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Rice. 55. Curly spatula
Before you begin cladding the walls with cement mortar, they are hung using a plumb line or a vertical strip. Then, control tiles are fixed to the facing surface with gypsum mortar, which determine the level of future cladding (the so-called beacons or marks). If the surface is small, four beacons, one each in the upper and lower corners of the surface, will be sufficient. First, they put one, then, determining the correctness of the plane using the rule (even strip) and level, the second (horizontally). The third and fourth beacons are adjusted in the same way. In this case, the thickness of the solution of the entire future cladding is taken into account - 10-15 mm. If the surface has a large area, the beacons are placed at least 50 cm apart from each other.
Then along the edges of the wall you need to place plumb slats (a wooden block with a cross-section of approximately 40 x 40 mm and a length of 2 m). These slats are needed to attach a horizontal guide cord to them; Tiles are installed under the cord. Once the entire surface has been covered, the slats should be removed. and fill their place with mortar tiles.
The amount of mortar should be sufficient to fill the entire space between the tiles and the surface to be tiled. To ensure that the width of the seams is the same throughout the cladding, it is recommended to use wedges as a template, having a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the seam (they are pulled out after the mortar has hardened). In cases where the cladding is done before laying the finished floors, a wooden strip must be laid under the first row of tiles (at the level of the future finished floor).
The solution is placed on the back side of the tile in the form of a truncated pyramid and pressed against the wall. It is necessary to ensure that when planting and settling the tiles, the solution evenly fills the space under the entire tile. The excess mortar squeezed out along the edges of the tile is cut off with a trowel, the tile is brought in a horizontal position to the wall and applied to the previously installed tile at the corner from which the mortar was previously cut (Fig. 54).
Quickly and carefully give the tiles a vertical position. Then it is pressed to the surface and settled.
Rice. 54. Laying mortar on the back of the tile
The seams between the tiles should be from 0.5 to 3 mm.
The thickness of the mortar should not exceed 15 mm, otherwise, when settling, water is released from it and remains between the layer of mortar and the tile, reducing their adhesion.
It is also not recommended to lay tiles and mortar whose layer is thinner than 7 mm, since the base and the tile itself quickly suck water out of it, making the mortar almost dry. It is for this reason that you should always wet each tile before sticking it to the wall.
After the mortar has hardened and the tiles are held firmly enough, you need to clear the horizontal and vertical joints and fill them with cement mortar prepared from 1 part cement and 1 part sand. It is better to use white cement, but you can use cement or gypsum dough. Ordinary gray cement is whitened with chalk or lime flour.
Rice. 55. Curly spatula
The seams are filled using a trowel or a shaped spatula, which must be covered with thin porous rubber (Fig. 55). Excess solution is removed again by wiping with a wet cloth.
General information. The walls in the premises are partially or completely covered with glazed ceramic tiles.
Rows of tiles are placed on the surface to be tiled at random(Fig. 99, a) with offset vertical seams in each horizontal row; seam to seam(Fig. 99,b) with a rectangular grid of horizontal and vertical seams; diagonally(Fig. 99, c) with mutually perpendicular seam lines running obliquely to the floor plane.
Wall cladding begins with hanging - temporarily securing the vertical surface with mortar marks or nails. The height of each mark is 7-15 mm, which corresponds to the layer of mortar under the facing tile. Individual surface unevenness and deviations from the vertical of more than 15 mm are corrected with cement mortar without smoothing or grouting. On concrete surfaces, for better fastening of the tiles, a notch is made. The surfaces to be coated are cleaned of solution drips, dirt, dust and washed with water. Grease stains are removed by washing the contaminated surface with a 2-3% solution of hydrochloric acid or a 5% solution of soda ash.
Coverage marking. First, the contours of the surface to be coated are determined. The bottom of the cladding is located at the level of the finished floor. To do this, lay out the first row dry, starting from the middle of the wall, and determine the required number of tiles.
To determine the vertical contours of the surface to be tiled, steel pins 1 are driven in at opposite ends of the wall above the top of the future cladding (Fig. 100). From them, cords 2 are pulled plumb and secured to pins driven into the floor. These cords, which fix the direction of the vertical seam and the side edges of the cladding, are retained until the end of the work. A gap is left between the adjacent wall and the tensioned cord that is less than the thickness of the corner shaped tiles. The edge of the facing does not reach the cord by 3-4 mm, but this will not interfere with checking the verticality of the seam.
In a room where floors are not laid, the lower lighthouse row of wall cladding is supported by rail 3, the height of which is equal to the thickness of the floor. The tiles are laid along a stretched mooring cord attached to the pins, after which the position of the horizontal and vertical seams is marked. After checking the surface of the cladding, beacons are installed in the corners, retreating from the corners by the width of the tile. If the length of the surface to be coated is more than 4 m, intermediate beacons are installed. Lighthouse tiles are fixed with cement mortar at the upper corners of the surface to be tiled at the beginning and end of the upper and middle rows of cladding and aligned along a vertical cord installed in the plane of the lower lighthouse row.
Wall cladding is done from bottom to top in horizontal rows. In each row, the outer tiles are first installed and the mooring cord is pulled along them. When installing tiles, check the verticality of the seams, and check the surface of the cladding according to the rule. The remaining rows of tiles are laid in the same order.
Laying tiles. Before cladding begins, the surface of the wall is moistened with water using a paintbrush. This will reduce the absorption of moisture from the mortar layer and increase the adhesion strength of the cladding to the base. Before laying, the back surface of the tile is cleaned of dust with a damp rag, and then the same side is rubbed over the mortar (Fig. 101, a) located in the box. This treatment of the back side of the tile increases the adhesion strength to the mortar layer. Then a solution in the form of a truncated pyramid is applied to one of the corners of the back side. Excess mortar is cut off with a spatula (Fig. 101, b) so that there are no voids left under the tiles when laying.
To apply a uniform layer of mortar to the tiles, use a template frame 5 (Fig. 101, c) with a square hole measuring 145 x 145 mm, framed at the bottom by sides 15 mm high. The mortar is applied to the tile, pressed against the sides of the template, leveling the surface with the edge of a spatula (Fig. 101, d). In this case, along the edges of the back side of the tile, strips 5 mm wide that are not filled with mortar remain (Fig. 101, d).
The tile with the mortar is brought in a horizontal position to the place of installation, and then quickly but carefully turned over (Fig. 102, a), applying it first with the corner where the mortar was applied, and then with the entire plane. The tiles are oriented along the previously laid rows and along the mooring cord stretched at the top. With light blows from the handle of the spatula, the tiles are pushed down (Fig. 102, b) to the level of the laid cladding. The mortar protruding from under the tile is trimmed with a spatula or spatula and placed back in the mortar box (Fig. 103).
Walls with widened seams up to 3 mm are faced using staples 1 (see Fig. 102, c) or nails. They are laid between the horizontal and vertical edges of the tiles. One staple or two nails are inserted into each seam. The staples are removed after the mortar under the tiles has set (usually after installing 15-20 tiles). When pulled out, the pointed ends of the staples do not move the installed tile. To work, a tiler needs 30-40 inventory staples. The seams in those places where nails or staples were installed are filled with mortar.
Cladding with shaped products. The cladding of adjacent walls with shaped tiles begins with the installation of corner products. The vertical cord is removed, and the edge of the laid cladding is used as a guide plane. The solution is applied to each tile and to the corner of the wall.
Shaped plinth tiles 1 (Fig. 104) are installed starting from external corners. They are laid on a tiled floor and secured to the wall with mortar. Partial cladding of extended walls is completed by a vertical strip of square tiles 6 with blockage.
In places where pipes pass and sockets are installed, tiles with holes are laid. They are punched with a pick hammer (see Fig. 103, c) and expanded to the right size with wire cutters (Fig. 103, d) or drilled using special device(see Fig. 39, c).
The top of the lined surface of the walls is completed by cornice tiles 2 (Fig. 104). First, the outer tiles are installed, and then the intermediate tiles are installed along the stretched mooring cord. The seams of the cornice tiles must coincide with the vertical seams of the cladding.
During tiling, the seams between the tiles are left unfilled. This speeds up the hardening process of the mortar layer. The seams are finally finished with cement mortar (composition 1: 1 or 1: 2). To do this, the seams are first unstitched with interchangeable fabrics (see Fig. 103, d), and then filled with mortar. The finished surface is washed with water, using a brush or sponge and wiped with a rag.
