Timing for treating fruit trees against pests in the spring. Spring garden care

The day is lengthening, the sun is getting warmer. Spring is coming - the time for the most intensive work in the garden. People say: if you don’t have time in the spring, you won’t dig it in the winter. And that's true. Begin spring work from garden agricultural technology.

Spring agrotechnical activities

We begin spring agrotechnical activities in the garden with preparation for the treatment of fruit crops from diseases and pests:

• On young seedlings we remove the insulation and treat them from possible pests. Let's dry it. We put it in a dry place until autumn.
• On fruit-bearing crops, we remove the trapping belts and burn them.
• When a stable temperature of -5..-7ºС sets in, we trim the crown, clean the trunk and skeletal branches from the old loose bark that served as “ winter apartments» for pests. We treat saw cuts and sections with varnish, special compounds or simply disinfect with 5% copper sulfate and paint over with oil paint.
• The April sun is bright. You need to hide the trunks and skeletal branches of trees from it, dress it in a spring outfit of whitewash and paint, and at the same time destroy some of the pests.
• Adult pests (weevils, fruit sawflies) can simply be shaken off the tree. The technology for carrying out this procedure is simple, but up to 60-80% of pests that have overwintered in adult form will be destroyed. The procedure must be carried out at a temperature no higher than +7...+8ºС, early in the morning in cloudy weather, so that the beetles, numb from the cold, do not fly away. Remove all protruding weeds from under the crown. Spread the film evenly. Use a long pole to shake the branches. Overwintered pests will fall from the tree crown. All that remains is to carefully roll up the film with the beetles, take it out and burn the pests.

Treatment of trunks and skeletal branches of fruit crops

Before treating the wood, place a film underneath it. Inspect the trunk and large branches again, remove the remains of old bark, clean cracks, seal hollows and wounds. The film is needed to protect the soil from pests and re-infection of plants.

The chemical industry offers ready-made compositions for whitewashing and even painting the trunks and main shoots of adult plants. The most popular dye for whitewashing is acrylic paint. On sale there are water-based and water-dispersion dyes marked “for garden trees" They stick to the bark of trees for a long time and are not washed off by rain. The dyes contain an antiseptic, so no additional pesticides need to be added to the solution. Sometimes, if the composition is liquid, PVA glue is added to it. If the consistency is dense, no glue is needed. If it is impossible to buy a ready-made whitewash solution, you can prepare it yourself.

Self-preparation of whitewash solutions

For young seedlings, the solution is prepared using a water-based emulsion or chalk base. Lime can burn the tender bark of seedlings. BI-58 and copper sulfate are added to the solution as disinfectants. Others can be used disinfectants. Glue, especially wood glue, should not be used. It clogs the pores in the young bark, as a result of which gas exchange decreases, the trunks thicken more slowly (remain weak to support the crown).

Advice! To protect the young bark of seedlings from sunburn always install a support stake with south side trunk There will be additional shadow protection.

In the garden, do not limit yourself to one whitewash per year. Whitewashing must be repeated as it is washed off.

Prepared for fruit-bearing trees following mixtures, which are used to treat the trunk and all skeletal branches. Solutions are prepared using freshly slaked lime. It burns out the eggs of many pests laid in the fall.

Mixture 1.

Dilute slaked lime until it becomes thick sour cream. For better adhesion to the solution bucket, add 1-2 handfuls of clay, office glue (some gardeners use wood glue), copper sulfate and any strong-smelling pesticide BI-58, dichlorvos, etc.

Mixture 2.

Prepare a solution of freshly slaked lime of creamy thickness, add stationery glue, dissolved laundry soap, copper sulfate, fungicide Khom (30-40 g/bucket), or oxychom (20 g/bucket). This composition is good for use in gardens affected by fungal diseases, mosses and lichens.

Mixture 3.

In regions where nitrophen is permitted, you can add 200 g of the drug to a bucket of whitewash solution. It is effective against overwintering eggs garden pests.

Each gardener can use his own recipe for whitewash solution. The above compositions are examples for beginners.

The whitewashing work is completed by installing catcher belts made of straw rope on the lower part of the bole. Treat the harness with any powdered pesticide (DDT, etc.), lubricate the trunk with special anti-caterpillar garden glue and attach the hunting belt to the adhesive track. Animals from the soil, including “household” ants, will get stuck on the adhesive track in the belt and die. During the spring, fishing belts are changed twice every 10-12 days. The old ones must be burned.

The measures taken will partially destroy the pests, but with the onset of a warm period, other sucking and gnawing representatives of the negative world will wake up harmful insects and beetles.

Brief characteristics of pests

Pests of the green world can be divided into two groups according to their feeding method:

• sucking,
• gnawing.

In suckers, the mouthparts are adapted to suck out plant juices. In this case, the normal nutrition of the crop is disrupted and, in case of epiphytotic damage, leads to the death of the plant. The main sucking garden pests are aphids, mites, scale insects, leafhoppers, pennies, copperheads and others. Adults remaining from wintering in a short period of time, actively reproducing, form huge colonies. As they feed, they secrete a sweetish liquid called “honeydew,” which is a breeding ground for fungi, bacteria, viruses and the favorite food of ants. By eating honeydew affected by negative diseases, they spread diseases to all the crops they visit.

Gnawing pests gnaw young vegetative (leaves, buds, young shoots, roots) and generative organs ( flower buds, flowers, ovaries). They cause irreparable harm to the emerging crop and the tree itself. In some years, pests destroy the crop by 50-100%. Often cause the death of a culture. This group of pests includes caterpillars of various butterflies, longhorned beetles, click beetles, weevils, etc.

Methods for controlling fruit pests

Pest control can be carried out using several methods:

• Chemical, using pesticides.
• Biological, using biological products made on a live bacterial and fungal basis and attracting natural predators that eat adult pests, their eggs, and larvae. These include ladybugs, riders, individual species wasps and birds, including sparrows, warblers, titmice, wagtails and others.
• Folk decoctions, infusions, powders of appropriate anti-insecticidal and antifungicidal herbs, fruits, seeds.

General approaches to chemical pest control methods

No matter how offensive it is to realize, the most common remains chemical method pest control. A solution prepared in 5-10 minutes, especially in a tank mixture, will rid the garden of pests in 2-3 sprayings.

When using pesticides you need to remember:

• all chemicals (solutions, powders) have a high degree of risk to human health, animals and beneficial insects,
• the last chemical treatment ends a month or more before harvest,
• considering them negative influence For health reasons, it is better to treat trees and shrubs with a tank mixture, having first checked the preparations for compatibility. Mixtures of pesticides will reduce the number of treatments and expand the list of simultaneously destroyed pests and diseases.

When starting to work with a chemical, especially a new one, carefully study the recommendations and act strictly on them. Increasing the dose of the drug in solution or untimely use will not give a positive effect, but will negatively affect the state of health and the quality of the product.

Remember! The main condition for effective protection against pests when using pesticides is the exact implementation of instructions and recommendations for their use.

When working with toxic chemicals, you must always work in special clothing that protects against the ingress of toxic chemicals. After working with medications, take a shower and change clothes.

Control of sucking pests

Chemicals against sucking pests

• Before the buds open fruit crops can be protected from pests by spraying with solutions of nitrophen and DNOC. Nitrafen can be replaced with Nisaran or Borneo, which destroy pest eggs, and in more late dates and larvae.
• During the swelling phase of the buds, before flowering and after flowering, it is advisable to spray the trees with 1% Bordeaux mixture or use a tank mixture of the drugs HOM and Fufanon.
• From chemicals systemic action which destroy with poisonous juice gastrointestinal tract sucking pests such as aphids, scale insects, false scale insects, whitefly thrips, psyllids, effective use according to the recommendations of actara, confidor, karbofos, rovicurt, benzophosphate. Karbofos and Actellik are successfully used against ticks, including spider mite.
• Mospilan and Prestige are dual-action drugs: systemic and contact. They successfully destroy eggs, larvae and adult pests.
• Contact-action preparations (require repeated spraying after rains and waterings) arrivo, decis, karate, fastak, fury, tsimbush, tsikkor, sherpa (about the same in chemical composition) effectively destroy not only sucking aphids, fungus gnats, thrips, whiteflies, but also gnawing pests.
• Thunder and thunder-2 are successfully used against ants and mole crickets.
• Among the new drugs, Sunmite is recommended against mites and whiteflies at all phases of crop development, especially on apple trees.
• Stirrup for the targeted destruction of spider mites.

Biological products against sucking pests

On your own garden plot To obtain ecological products, it is better to use biological preparations. Bioinsecticides do not affect human health. Does not harm animals and beneficial insects. They can be used for treatments before harvesting, and some (planriz) during fruit harvesting.

Of the bioinsecticides, the most effective and frequently used are Boverin, Fitoverm, Actofite, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide, Bicol (see instructions). Verticillin has a particularly rapid effect on aphids and whiteflies, and bitoxibacillin and bicol – on aphids and spider mites.

Control of gnawing pests

If sucking pests suck out plant juices, then gnawing pests physically destroy generative and vegetative organs plants. The group of gnawing pests includes bud beetles, flower beetles, leaf beetles, weevils, click beetles, and longhorned beetles. All types of codling moths damage fruits, and butterflies, passing through the stage of voracious caterpillars, short term are capable of destroying the green garb of fruit trees and significantly reducing the yield. Adults of gnawing pests overwinter in fallen fruits, leaves, pruned branches and shoots, tree hollows and cracks in the bark. Here they lay eggs, from which, with the onset of warmth, larvae and caterpillars hatch, devouring the green crown of trees.

Chemicals against gnawing pests

• Among the chemical preparations against gnawing pests, the same chemicals are used as for protection against sucking pests: karbofos, benzophosphate, actara, decis, fastak.
• Against the leaf caterpillars of the ringed silkworm, the winter moth, and moths, before the buds of fruit crops open, treatment is carried out with DNOC or nitrafen. At the beginning of bud break, a suspension of gardon or (for younger individuals) eptobacterin, dendrobacillin is used.
• To protect against flower beetles during the period from bud break to budding, a phosphamide suspension is used, and against glass beetles, a fosalone emulsion is used.
• Codling moths and sawflies are effectively destroyed by antio emulsion. A suspension of Gordon, Rovicurt, and Zolon can be used specifically against codling moths.
• Trichlorometaphos is recommended against sawflies and leafmining moths.

Biological products against gnawing pests

Other drugs widely used include bitoxibacillin, Boverin Verticillium, Dacha, Fitoverm, and Lepidocide. They effectively protect fruit crops from moths, thrips, whiteflies, codling moths, cutworms, flower beetles and other pests. And their wide compatibility with other biological products and chemicals makes them indispensable in the manufacture of tank mixtures. Biological products are especially convenient for multi-harvested berry and garden crops and vegetables.

Bioinsecticides combine systemic and contact effects on pests. Acting as a neurotoxin, they cause paralysis and death of adult sucking and gnawing individuals. The duration of action of bioinsecticides is much shorter than chemical preparations, therefore they require more frequent treatments (every 10-15 days). The purchase of medications and the time spent on treatment increases, but... health is more expensive. The main condition effective use biological products - strict adherence to instructions and recommendations for dilution and periods of use.

Folk remedies for pest control

Methods of protecting fruit crops from pests using folk remedies involve preparing infusions, decoctions and powders of insecticidal herbs and herbs with antifungicidal properties. It should be noted that the prepared drugs are not as harmless as they seem. They sometimes contain such potent alkaloid compounds that eating an unwashed apple or peach can result in severe poisoning. Some gardeners offer decoctions of hemlock, henbane, hogweed, aconite and others poisonous herbs. Judging by the rules of use, decoctions and infusions are the same chemical preparations, only of lower concentration. Using people's councils be careful.

Rules for using traditional methods of pest control:

• The aboveground part of plants (stems, leaves, inflorescences) for preparing solutions should be collected at the time of the beginning or full flowering, and tubers, bulbs, roots and rhizomes - in early spring or late autumn. Dry naturally.
• Considering the toxicity of some plants, preparations (dry and wet) from them must be prepared strictly according to the recipe and stored in places inaccessible to children and animals.
• For cooking use special dishes, which is not used for cooking.
• The remains and waste from the solutions should be buried in the ground. They must be inaccessible to animals and birds.
• Plants are treated no more than 3 times during the growing season. In epiphytotic cases, the number of treatments is increased by 1-2 sprayings or dustings.
• Spraying and other treatments are carried out in the evening.
• Stop treating plants 20-30 days before harvesting and only with absolutely non-poisonous plants 5-7 days before. Solutions are not used during flowering and harvesting.

Compositions of folk remedies

Several formulations can be proposed for treating plants against pests:

• To protect against spider mites and aphids, spraying a decoction of healthy tops of potatoes and tomatoes works well.
• Against aphids, copperheads, spider mites can be prepared in hot water solution wood ash with laundry soap.
• An infusion of onion peels is effective against caterpillars, aphids, and spider mites.
• Pour tobacco dust or shag hot water. A daily infusion with the addition of soap is effective against aphids, codling moths, copperheads, leaf-eating caterpillars, spider mites, and slugs.
• Fumigation is used against apple and fruit moths (during the summer of butterflies), copperhead (after flowering), and aphids. tobacco dust. It is poured onto small heaps of slightly damp straw with garbage or heaps of waste and set on fire.
• An infusion of burdock leaves is used against white moth and cutworm caterpillars.

Now compare the proposals of other “folk solution lovers.” For example:

To combat caterpillars and larvae, it is proposed to spray trees with a mixture of solutions of aconite (fighter), leaves and inflorescences of hemlock. How much do you think this folk way harmless, considering that plants are among the most poisonous representatives of the plant world?

It is almost impossible to list all the recommended compositions of herbs, roots, bulbs and fruits, chemical and biochemical preparations and compositions. But after reading the article, you can make your choice of measures to protect garden crops from pests.

How to treat trees and shrubs against pests in early spring?

After the end of winter, all nature wakes up, and already at this time it is necessary to take measures to protect plants from various diseases and pests. In early spring, before the sap begins to flow from the trees and shrubs, the plantings begin to be processed. What to apply in this case to get the result good harvest cultures? There are really many ways and such events will have to be carried out more than once. Spraying bushes and trees helps get rid of all kinds of diseases and harmful insects. Among other things, fruits and berries appear faster and bear more fruit.

Spraying is carried out several times during the season. Thanks to him, the garden gets rid of aphids, caterpillars, silkworms, flower beetles, scab, powdery mildew and other pests. All shrubs and trees located on the site need to be treated. Typically, plants are treated 3 times during spring and summer. The solution used is valid for 12-15 days. Therefore, the plantings need to be sprayed every month, taking into account the break between treatments. 15-20 days before harvest, treatment is stopped.

Many gardeners are inclined to believe that after the ovary appears, it is better not to use chemicals. When purchasing spraying products at specialized retail outlets, be sure to read the instructions for it. Shrubs should be treated less frequently, and after fruits appear on them, spraying should be stopped altogether. It is better to carry out measures to treat plantings with chemicals on a windless, dry day.

Spraying can be divided into several stages. The very first one begins in early spring, when it is necessary to remove pests that have successfully overwintered. The second treatment is done after the leaves appear. At this time, unwanted insects wake up. Among other things, during this period they carry out the prevention of diseases that can cause horticultural crops. The third spraying is necessary after flowering, when the plants are attacked by codling moths and spider mites.

Preliminary work

Before spraying shrubs and trees in early spring, you should prepare in advance. The first step is to go around the entire area, removing old fruits from bushes and trees, as well as nests of harmful insects. Among other things, they prune old branches, as they serve good place for the reproduction of pathogenic bacteria and pests in winter time. The cut branches are burned outside the site. Shrubs can be subjected to a hot shower by heating water to 70 degrees and pouring it over the plants. In this way, you can destroy harmful insects along with their larvae. Only carry out this processing before the juices start appearing. To avoid using chemicals during this period, experienced gardeners It is recommended to spray with a solution prepared and ordinary table salt. About 150 grams of salt are diluted in 10 liters of water. But before the first spraying, it is necessary to dig up the plantings and trim off unnecessary branches and shoots. And only after a few days carry out salt treatment.

Processing stages

The first treatment is needed to prevent scab. In early spring, when the buds on the trees have not yet swelled, they are sprayed with Skvor or Fundazol. You can replace the drugs with similar ones. Before processing, the crown is thinned out and lime is applied to the tree trunk. Before the buds swell, trees are treated with the drug “Neoron” to disinfect plants from gall mites. Can apply more safe remedy– urea solution. Half a kilogram of product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution has a positive effect on soil quality.

When applying treatment in early spring, you must first carefully inspect all trees and shrubs and identify any danger, if any. Many chemicals have a specific effect and can affect a specific disease or pest. Therefore, it is better to use exactly those components that are aimed at getting rid of a specific disease or harmful insect.

First preventive actions from caterpillars they begin to carry out after the first leaves appear. At this time, the plants are treated with Fury or Kinmiks. The chemicals “Skvor” and “Fundazol” will help get rid of powdery mildew and scab.

Weed control

Weeds are taken away nutritional elements from the soil, take root and thereby prevent the planted crops from growing. Among other things, weeds are an excellent habitat and breeding ground for pests. To combat them, you can use Roundup and similar drugs. Handle with extreme caution. To do this, the tree trunk is covered with something so that the toxic substance does not get on the plant. After which, the drug is sprayed on the weeds and the protection is left for a day. Final stage Tree processing is carried out after flowering. But the garden cleaning activities don’t end there.

The above processing methods are basic, but these procedures should be performed much more often. Leaf rollers and codling moths, which become active after flowering, can be combated with the drug “Fury”. Trees are sprayed twice. Three weeks should pass after the first treatment. You can also use “Fundazol” and “Skvor” for this purpose. If you see a damaged tree table with black cancer, you need to treat it with copper sulfate (1% solution), and then with garden varnish. Further treatment of trees is done as needed, no more than every two weeks. Small rodents are destroyed using Zernotsin-U.

How are shrubs treated?

Spraying of shrubs is carried out less frequently, but almost the same means are used as for treating trees. The drug "Fundazol" helps get rid of gray rot, powdery mildew, and fusarium wilt. It can also be used against fungi, on raspberries and gooseberries. “Topaz” is used to treat shrubs until buds appear. This drug also gets rid of powdery mildew. “Phosbecid” and “Clinmixol” help prevent the invasion of sawflies, leaf rollers, and gall midges. The product is used during the period of swelling of the buds. Berry bushes stop being processed a month before the fruits ripen. After the crop is harvested, the plants are sprayed again with any pest control drug.

Folk remedies

There are many methods invented by gardeners that have been tried for a long time. Unlike chemicals, traditional methods treatments are not harmful to the future harvest. However, the effect is clearly noticeable and has a sufficient effect.

Tomato leaves will help in the fight against leaf rollers and caterpillars. Tomato leaves (2 kg) are poured with hot water (5 liters) and left for 5 hours. After this, the infusion is brought to a boil and filtered. Spray should be done twice with an interval of one week.

To get rid of aphids in early spring, which, like mites, are a common pest, make a decoction of potato leaves. For this procedure, take one proportion of tops and two proportions of water. Leave for 5 hours and then boil the contents for 40 minutes in a water bath. After which everything is filtered and cooled.

It will be effective to treat shrubs and trees before flowering in early spring. Bordeaux mixture. This method can be used during other processing periods.

When lichens and mosses appear on the bark of trees, there is no need to use special preparations. Before processing, the moss is simply removed from the bark using some kind of hard material (burlap).

By treating plants in this way, you extend the life of the plantings and can count on a good harvest.

One of the main requirements for caring for fruit trees is seasonal processing. This treatment is done by any summer resident who wants to grow beautiful garden with a significant number of yields. Spraying trees in the spring with the necessary preparations will protect the garden from the scourge of pests and pathogenic microorganisms.

The main objective of such treatment is to protect against the appearance of butterflies, aphids, caterpillars and all kinds of beetles, and also to minimize the possibility of infectious, viral and fungal diseases.

• For example, aphids cause significant damage to fruit trees such as pear, plum, apple, apricot and cherry plum. This pest attacks the bark of a tree, forming nodules on its surface, which crack over time, turning into sores. Aphids infect tree leaves, which first curl and then dry out. The affected areas stop growing over time and dry out.
• The main enemy of plums, cherries and cherries is cockchafer, more precisely, its larvae, which live in the ground for three years. This pest can destroy entire gardens of young trees, destroying them root system. The adult beetles fly in May, and they also destroy young leaves and fruit ovaries. Spraying trees in the spring makes their leaves unattractive to beetles.
• Flower beetles are found everywhere. With the warmth, weevils crawl out of the soil where they hibernated and head towards the opening flowers, where they dine on the stamens and pistils. Measures to combat them - late autumn dig up tree trunk circles (or cover them with a thick layer of hay, sawdust, straw, through which the beetles will not be able to escape).
• Sawflies and moths. These terrible insects can make the entire harvest of plums, peaches, apples, pears, and nectarines simply inedible. Methods of control - only one spraying.

Chemical treatment of the above-ground parts of fruit trees allows you to preserve not only the foliage, but also the ripe fruits, which means getting a tasty and healthy harvest.

Irrigation of the orchard with chemicals must be carried out on time. Untimely and incorrect treatment of plants will not give any effect.

When and how many times to spray?

Spraying fruit trees This is done more than once, from early spring to late autumn. Gardeners, taking into account their enormous experience, have developed a special irrigation schedule orchard. It describes in detail what and when to irrigate trees throughout the season.

The first spraying of fruit trees against pests is done in early spring. Many novice gardeners wonder at what weather conditions this procedure can be carried out. So, experts advise doing the first spraying immediately after the snow melts, at a temperature of about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Treatment of fruit trees is usually carried out in the second half of March. Just at this time, the process of bud enlargement begins in plants. During spraying, as well as during the process of pruning trees, the gardener must pay special attention to cracks that may contain harmful insects. Before spraying trees, they need to be prepared for this. The trees are carefully cleaned with a brush, then a freshly prepared solution is applied. The solution is used on the day it is prepared, otherwise it will become useless. It will not remove pests, but the trees may be seriously burned.

Treatment of the garden in March is aimed at combating insects that infect trees by getting out of the soil.

The next spraying is carried out in April. The purpose of this spraying is to protect the flower buds on the trees from various fungal diseases and the stag beetle.

May processing is carried out in order to prevent the appearance of harmful insects and diseases. This procedure is carried out after the trees bloom.

The processing of the garden does not end there; with the onset of autumn, additional spraying follows. This is a kind of preparation of fruit trees for winter. As soon as the trees lose their leaves, in October-November, it’s time to start processing them. In this case, it is recommended to use chemicals. If, however, spraying is carried out without their use, then the first autumn treatment can be carried out immediately after harvesting - in September.

How to prepare trees for spraying?

Trees over 6 years old are cleaned of old bark and lichens with a brush. Growths and other accumulations on the trunk of trees do not in any way affect their general condition. But it is worth noting that it is precisely in these places that pathogenic microorganisms most often like to gather. Immediately after cleaning, spraying is carried out.

The final processing of fruit plantings and shrubs is carried out after harvesting and falling leaves. The area is completely cleared of weeds and leaves. The most late spraying garden is carried out after the first frost.

What and against what diseases should I spray trees in the spring?

There are several effective preparations that gardeners use when treating fruit trees and shrubs. Today there are a lot of substances for spring and autumn processing orchards. The most popular means used by many gardeners over the years:

• Urea or urea.

It is impossible to give preference to any one of the above-mentioned remedies, because each of them is aimed at eliminating a specific disease or pest. One drug can only be used in the spring, the other only in the fall. Experienced gardeners advise stopping spraying fruit trees and shrubs with chemicals 3-4 weeks before harvest.

Garden treatment iron sulfate performed twice during the entire season. The first spraying is carried out during the period of foliage formation, and the second - when the trees are preparing for wintering. This drug has a double effect. It enriches shrubs and trees with iron, and is also effective protection from all kinds of pests and diseases. The lack of iron in fruit trees is expressed in a trivial way - low yield and underdeveloped fruits. Spraying of fruit plantings with iron-based vitriol is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, for preventive purposes, and also to exterminate lichen, moss, cytosporosis, black cancer and septosporosis.

Treatment of the garden with copper sulfate is carried out according to the same scheme as with the previous preparation - twice a season. The first treatment is carried out in early spring, even before the appearance of young buds. This substance must be handled with care, since copper sulfate, even the weakest concentration, can burn young foliage on trees. This is beautiful disinfectant, healing wounds on the trunk of trees and shrubs. This fungicide is sprayed on trees such as pear, plum and apple trees, both in autumn and spring. Copper sulfate protects orchards from moniliosis, scab, cluster blight and curl.

For one young tree, up to 6 years old, apply 2 liters of freshly prepared solution. For adult specimens, use 10 liters of liquid. The garden is processed in the morning or evening, when there is no wind, at a temperature of 10 to 25 degrees. On hot days, it is advisable to avoid using this drug, as it is quite aggressive and can harm both animals and people. The solution is prepared in a place remote from water bodies.

No less effective drug carbamide (urea) is considered to be used against pests. First care orchards at the beginning of spring it begins with spraying them with this particular drug. This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering. The second spraying with this substance is carried out before wintering. Urea is intended to save crops from invasion various pests. A properly made solution allows you to achieve the desired effect.

At the first spraying, urea of ​​increased concentration is used with the addition of a small dose copper sulfate. This remedy is effective not only against a variety of pests, but also allows you to slow down the growing season of some fruit trees by 2-3 weeks. This helps preserve the color on the trees during the last frost.

7 days after flowering, fruit plantings are sprayed with a weaker solution of urea: 50 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water. This protects the trees from leaf rollers, aphids, caterpillars, copperheads and flower beetles.

The second treatment is carried out in the fall, when half of the trees are bare of leaves. In this case, a solution of increased concentration is used. Spraying is also carried out after the leaves have completely fallen. In this case, spraying is performed with a urea solution with an 8-10% concentration. Not only trees, but also the soil around them are subject to this treatment. This substance has a dual effect – it disinfects plantings and also nourishes the soil. Here it is extremely important to choose the right concentration so as not to harm the trees or reduce their resistance to cold.

Just like other drugs, it is used twice - in autumn and spring. This petroleum product must be used with extreme caution, as it can cause burns to trees and shrubs, as a result of which they die. Therefore, spraying with diesel fuel is carried out strictly before the formation of buds and leaves on the trees in the spring. The second spraying is carried out only after the trees have completely lost their leaves.

This substance is strictly prohibited for use in pure form. It is diluted with water or other liquid, thereby reducing the concentration and destructive effect. A diluted solution of diesel fuel is extremely effective in combating rot.

It is used in early spring and late autumn. Ready solution consists of 200 g of substance diluted with 1 bucket of water. Treatment with this drug destroys many pests that have remained on the trunk and branches since the fall. This can be false scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects, leaf rollers and moths, etc. Preparation 30B is often used to control insects in the summer. This substance is considered harmless. When applied, it forms a thin film on the tree cover, which prevents the supply of oxygen and moisture to pests at the stage of eggs and larvae. Such conditions ultimately lead to the death of insects.

Despite the safety of this drug, experienced gardeners use it no more than once every three years.

Today, two types of devices for spraying orchards are produced - manual or mechanical. This necessary thing for correct and effective implementation procedures. It improves the quality of spraying and protects the gardener from contact with chemical. Each device is equipped with a pump. To work with drugs in powder form, there are devices with air supply.

Mechanical devices are characterized by convenience and high cost. The pumping principle of manual and mechanical devices is also different. Each model has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, here you should proceed from the needs and capabilities when purchasing this item.

We wish you success and good harvests!

Article outline

Garden care in early spring - March

As the snow begins to melt, you can start working in the garden. In early spring, it is necessary to inspect all plantings and determine how the plants tolerated low temperatures.

There is no need to speed up the melting of snow. On the contrary, it is better to compact the snow in the tree trunk area and sprinkle it with hay or straw mulch to retain moisture and prevent rodents from settling near fruit crops.

You can make row spacing in the snow by sprinkling snow or. This technique will also allow you to retain moisture in the tree trunk area longer. After the snow has completely melted, the soil around the tree trunk is carefully dug up and the first fertilizing is applied.

Before treating trees against pests in the spring, you should perform the following manipulations:

Whitewashing of trees is carried out no later than March, as this technique helps protect trees from sunburn. It will more than prevent garden pests, but will not save trees from the harmful effects of the sun.

At the end of March, the garden is treated against fungal infections with fungicides and sprayed against insects, while they have not yet emerged from the wintering state.

Garden care in April

April is the month when you can correct all the shortcomings of March: trim trees and shrubs, dig trunk circle, feed the soil.

New trees are planted in April; this is a great time to create berry gardens. This month, fruit crops are grafted and the garden is re-treated against pests and infections.

Garden care in May

In May, you need to have time to do the remaining work before the buds open. Trees are grafted this month, if for some reason this was not done in April.

At the beginning of the month, experienced gardeners prepare smoke piles to help plants survive the return of spring frosts. For a garden of 5–6 acres, 8–10 smoke heaps are sufficient. You can use smoke bombs, which are sold at any hardware or gardening store.

Pay attention! Apple trees with unopened buds are able to withstand a short-term drop in temperature down to – 4°C, and opened inflorescences fall off already at a temperature of 0 – 1°C.

1. Before the start of sap flow and swelling of the buds.
2. At the stage of unopened buds - spraying along the “green cone”.
3. Before flowering - in the “bud release” phase.
4. Immediately after flowering.

Chemicals are selected taking into account the growing season of plants. For example, in early treatment You can use more aggressive preparations compared to means for treating the garden during the budding period.

First treatment of trees in early spring

For the first spraying of the garden, aggressive chemicals containing copper are usually used. In the second half of March - early April, when the garden is sprayed for the first time, the trees have not yet begun the period of intense sap flow, so it is impossible to harm them.

As a solution for trees, it is used in a concentration of no more than 3%. IN finished form You can buy it in retail stores, but if you wish, you can compose it yourself:

• lime 0.5 kg/copper sulfate 0.3 kg/10 l.

Spraying along the “green cone”

The next spraying is carried out at the stage unopened buds, which remind appearance green cones, which is why processing at this time is called “green cone”.

The procedure has preventive purposes against powdery mildew, all types of spotting and scab.

For treatment you can use the following drugs:

1. “ “, “Kuporolux”.

Instead of industrial drugs You can again use a solution for trees made from copper sulfate: 150 g/10 l. For apple trees, experts recommend replacing copper sulfate with iron sulfate: 200 g/10 l.

Last spraying before flowering

For spraying plants, use the time-tested preparation “” or new generation products:

• “Iskra M” or “ “,
• “ “, “Aliot.”

Spraying during flowering period

Spray fruit and berry crops It is not recommended during flowering, as aggressive chemicals can scorch the inflorescences. The flowers will fall off, there will be fewer ovaries, and this will undoubtedly affect the yield. But if there is a large infestation of insects, spraying can be done. The main thing is to choose the right moment.

The optimal period will be the period from blooming, but before the inflorescences begin to fall. As a last resort, you can spray trees until they have lost no more than 50% - 70% of their flowers. The most accessible remedy available in the arsenal of every gardener is urea.

Garden treatment after flowering

The final spraying of the garden in the spring is carried out after flowering, this period occurs in the month of May. For this treatment, the preparation is selected individually for each type of tree.

For apple and pear trees

After flowering, these crops are usually exposed to scab, which quickly spreads to neighboring plants. For prevention of this disease means used:

• “ “, “Vectra”,
• “Rubigan.”

After 15–20 days, the treatment is repeated, changing the product from the proposed list.

For sweet cherries

Cherries and sweet cherries are prone to the diseases coccomycosis, as well as clasterosporiosis. The most common insects on cherries are aphids and cherry flies.

For plum

For apricot

Folk remedies for spring garden treatment

Folk remedies are often used for repeated spraying in order to consolidate the results of chemicals, but not to harm the plants. Also, folk recipes are useful for treating trees when hot weather sets in.

The most popular are garlic and tobacco infusions, the pungent odor of which repels pests, and the antiseptic components prevent disease.

Garlic infusion

For ten liters of infusion you will need 500 g of garlic. The garlic is finely chopped and diluted in three liters of water, filtered, soaked again and squeezed. The liquid obtained the first and second time is poured into one container and brought to a volume of 10 liters.

Tobacco infusion

Tobacco infusion is effective against aphid attacks. Tobacco trimmings, shag or smoking tobacco pour in a ratio of 1:10. The solution is infused for a day, filtered by adding clean water double the volume. Before spraying, add 40 g of laundry or toilet soap for every 10 liters of infusion.

When using pesticides to treat your garden, take care of your personal safety. Waterproof work clothes, special plastic glasses, a respirator and silicone gloves are mandatory wardrobe items for a gardener in the spring.

Spring garden cultivation is a complex process, consisting of several stages. But without spring spraying you can’t grow healthy plants and not get a quality harvest.