Remove the electric motor from a Brown 1200 hair dryer. Hair dryer, typical faults and do-it-yourself repairs

The other day, my irresistible, unique and intimate Wife began to complain that her beloved Remington hair dryer not working. This manifested itself as interruptions in normal operation depending on the position of the power cable. That is, if you pull the cable, the hair dryer turns off, if you press it against the hair dryer, warm air comes out. I immediately realized what was happening and began to tear my shirt and wave my favorite soldering iron - they say, let me disassemble and repair the hair dryer right here and right now.

In general, after some moaning, my screwdrivers clashed with her hairdryer in an epic battle until the first... soldering. I’ll say right away - these instructions can be used for most hair dryers from Rowenta, Braun, Philips, Bosch and Scarlett. Of course, all hair dryers are used differently, but their design principle is the same. Go.

Remington hair dryer disassembly

First you need remove the caps on the handle or throughout the body of your favorite hair dryer. In my case, these are three plugs on the hair dryer handle. Recently, it has become fashionable to make the hair dryer body with latches or even fuse the two halves together.

The latches can be defeated, but if the halves are soldered, then you can only cut along the seam and then glue it with epoxy, in general there is no prospect. So when buying a hair dryer for your loved one, pay attention to its design.

Easy to remove plugs a needle or a sharp thin knife. Be prepared for the plastic to bend around you and immediately warn your Wife about this. The problem with burrs on plastic can be solved at the end of the repair using the same knife.

Under the plugs I found U-shaped screws as in the photo. In general, such screws were invented against vandals for outdoor equipment and to protect equipment from inquisitive children. They are called Security.

Such screws, only bigger and with round holes They are in the elevator in my building. It’s good that I had the right two-pronged bit just for these screws. That's it, elevator, just try again to get stuck between floors.

If you don't have such a screwdriver, you can make a U-shaped screwdriver from an old one slotted screwdriver , simply making a cut in it with a hacksaw.

After disassembling the hair dryer handle, we see the picture as in the photo - hot air supply switch (blue), hair dryer power mode switch (red), twisting of 220 V wires.

Everything is carefully here inspect for breaks any wire or scorch marks, melting on the switches.

If everything is in order here, then unscrew the two screws of the wire holder at the very bottom of the hair dryer handle. Need to find the break in the wire– usually it is located near the exit of the wire from the hair dryer handle.

This weakness You can see it right away if you bend the wire in half.

Remington hair dryer repair

For check strip the braided power cable at the bend point we see burnt copper wires.

Boldly cut off the wire and prepare it for installation.

I had one piece of cable unsolder from the switch hair dryer power, and the second release from twist with a yellow capacitor contact and a black wire.

Then I prepared one end of the cable for twisting (blue wire), and the other - ( brown wire). In general, the color of the wire in the power cable is not important, since they can be swapped. We mount each wire in its place and place all the insides in the corresponding grooves. We install the handle body back and fasten it with screws.

I picked up similar screws for Phillips screwdriver, so next time there will be no problems with disassembly. We put the screw plugs in place. If there are burrs on the plastic after disassembling the hair dryer, then you can cut them off with a sharp scalpel or level them by pressing on them.

This completes the disassembly and repair of the hair dryer for the beloved Spouse. I send her greetings and declarations of love. For me, you are the best in the whole wide world!

Master Soldering is with you in thought - successful repairs!

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This electrical appliance - a hair dryer - is very popular and often indispensable in everyday life. Due to high consumer demand, the designs of most hair dryers have become very similar, and the quality of workmanship and price have dropped. Today, buying a truly durable hair dryer is very difficult. Hairdryer repair practice various brands indicates that the breakdowns that occur are of the same type and, as a rule, are not fatal, but can be easily fixed without serious expenditure of money.

Any electric hair dryer in its design it contains two main, large elements: a fan and a heater. The fan drives air through the heater ( a heating element), sucking it in behind the hairdryer and throwing it out in front, heated.

Hair dryer device.
1 - propeller; 2 - electric motor; 3 - heater; 4 - thermal protection; 5 - mode switch; 6 - power cable.

For household hair dryers, the fan is built on the basis of low-voltage (12-18 V) commutator electric motors direct current. Such an engine cannot be powered directly from a 220 V network. alternating current. To achieve the required voltage drop, a separate coil (let's call it a step-down coil) is used inside the heating element. To rectify the voltage, a full-wave rectifier (diode bridge) is used, mounted on the contacts of the electric motor. A plastic propeller consisting of three or more blades is mounted on the metal shaft of the engine.

The heating element of the hair dryer is a frame made of fireproof material with several windings made of nichrome wire(spirals). Depending on the number of operating modes of the hair dryer, there may be two or three windings, one of which is step-down.

Heating element with two windings.

The hot coils of the heating element must be constantly blown with cold air, especially when working on maximum power. If for any reason the air supply becomes insufficient or stops altogether (for example, the engine fails), then, for reasons fire safety and to avoid burning out the heating element, the hair dryer should turn off automatically. This emergency shutdown occurs due to the presence in the hair dryer of two heat-sensitive elements at once - two “lines of protection” inside the heater.

The first “frontier” is the thermostat. It represents a couple closed contacts, attached to . Being close to the outlet of heated air, the contacts are intensively blown by it. When the exhaust air reaches a critical temperature, the contacts move away from each other, and the power supply circuit of the hair dryer opens. After a few minutes, when the bimetallic plate has cooled, the contacts will close again and the hair dryer will turn on.

Thermostats based on bimetallic plates.

In the event that the above protection for any reason right time did not work, then a few seconds later the “second line” of protection is activated - the thermal fuse. This fuse is disposable and, after tripping, needs to be replaced.

Thermal fuse.

Rowenta CV 4030 hair dryer device.

To see the internal structure of a household hair dryer, let's look at its typical representative - Rowenta CV 4030. This model equipped with a fan based on a low-voltage motor, the heating element consists of one reduction coil and two heating coils. The hair dryer has three operating modes; in the first mode the fan speed is lower than in the other two. The schematic diagram of this hair dryer is presented below.

In the first position of the switch SW1 mains power passing through the plug XP1, filter C1R1, protective elements F1, F2, diode VD5(necessary to cut off one half-wave of alternating voltage) is supplied to the lowering spiral H1, the electric motor is powered through it M1. Diodes VD1-VD4 necessary for straightening the lowered spiral H1 alternating voltage. Inductors L1, L2 and capacitors C2, C3 serve to reduce interference that occurs during the operation of the brush motor. Via diode VD5 power is also supplied to the heating coil H2.

When you move the switch SW2 to position “2”, diode VD5 short-circuits and “goes out of the game.” The engine starts to operate at maximum speed, the spiral H2 heats up more. Third position of the switch slider SW2 corresponds to the maximum power consumption mode when parallel to the spiral H2 spiral is connected H3. In this position, the temperature of the exhaust air is highest. The “cool” button is included in the gap of both heating coils; when pressed, only the electric motor through the coil remains switched on H1, helix H2 And H3 are de-energized.

The process of opening the Rowenta cv4030 hair dryer.

Hairdryer in semi-assembled form.

It is difficult to find a girl or woman who would not use a hair dryer to dry her hair, especially in the cold season. And this is understandable, since in order long hair dried well room temperature, you need a few hours, and with the current pace of life, this is a luxury.

Therefore, these devices were, are and will always be in demand. And this is proven by statistics on sales of hair dryers as gifts for women on various occasions. It is these devices that occupy one of the leading places, since the thing is necessary and inexpensive.
But no matter how high-quality the product is - elevated temperature, high current consumption, and, as a rule, improper operation, often lead to breakdowns of household hair dryers.

Rice. 1. Repairable hair dryer “Startex”

And before buying a new device, you can try to bring your old friend back to “life”. Moreover, the damage may be minor and easily repairable.

Below, one of the most common hair dryer breakdowns and how to fix it will be described in detail (using the “Startex” hair dryer as an example).

The only tools you will need are those that are found in almost every home. The only thing that may not be there is a multimeter or some other device that shows the circuit. But for sure, a friend or neighbor has it, and you can ask for it during repairs. If you still don’t have a kind neighbor or an electrician friend nearby, you can buy the cheapest multimeter, especially since there are plenty of them on the market now. It will definitely come in handy in the future, for example, to check a light bulb, battery or network voltage.

The photo (Figure 1) shows a hair dryer that has a problem with its operation.

It lies in the fact that when turned on at maximum power, it does not react at all.

The hair dryer itself has three switch positions:

1. The bottom one is “OFF”.
2. Medium – half the heating power.
3. Upper – maximum heating power.

Most often, a hairdryer is used in the upper position, as it gives the fastest drying. Therefore, it is unacceptable to ignore such a breakdown.

So, to find the cause of the malfunction, you need to disassemble the device. You should start with the handle.

It contains a position switch and two mounting screws for a Phillips screwdriver.

Place the hair dryer on its side and unscrew these two screws.

After removing the lid you can see its filling.

Here are located: a switch, a diode, a capacitor, a zero (common) clamp and a clamp for fixing the cord.

The zero clamp is located inside the dielectric cap (Figure 7).

It connects: wire from the power cord - of blue color, a black wire that goes further to the heater, and one capacitor lead.

The position switch has three outputs. One common one, to which the brown phase wire comes from the power cord.
On the other hand, a diode is soldered to the terminals.

If you look at schematic diagram(Figure 8), you can see that in one of the switch positions, current flows to the heater through the diode. This reduces the heating power and corresponds to the middle position of the switch.

When the second or both contacts are closed, the current passes to the heater coil, bypassing the diode, which corresponds to maximum power - the third position.

The capacitor is used to dampen noise generated by the engine into the network. This capacitor can be completely removed. Then it will appear more space in the handle, and it will not explode when the network voltage increases.

When inspecting these components, you should pay attention to their external condition. There should be no damage, carbon deposits, breakage of conductors or deformation of the housing due to temperature conditions.

If all the wires are in place, you need to pay attention to the switch. This is a weak link in the chain, since mechanical movement of the contacts occurs in it and when they open, an electric arc forms carbon deposits on their surface.

You can check the integrity of the diode, but in this case there is no need to do this, since the hair dryer is working at half power, which means the diode is intact.

You need to check the passage of current through the switch.

To do this, connect one end of the circuit tester to general conclusion, and the other, to the terminals on the opposite side.
But this must be done at a certain position of the switch.

First, we connect the device where only the diode is soldered, and put the switch lever in the middle position.

The indicator shows the circuit. This means that the contacts inside the case are closed and this is good.

The switch must be placed in the uppermost position (Figure 12).

The device does not show the circuit, which means something happened to the contacts. Fortunately, the switch turned out to be collapsible. The upper and lower parts are fastened with two screws.

They must be carefully unscrewed. A screwdriver will help here, and not necessarily a Phillips screwdriver. A regular straight line with a small tip, such as a watch tip, will do.

The screws are tightened quite tightly, so it will take some effort. You need to be extremely careful, the screwdriver is thin and can cause deep injury if it slips. Therefore, it is better not to put your fingers under the switch.
For convenience, you can remove the entire filling by unscrewing the cable clamp.

Now you can rest the lower part of the case on the table and press the screw with a screwdriver (Figure 14).

Small screws can be unscrewed quite easily this way. When both screws are unscrewed, carefully remove with two fingers top cover switch.

Below it is a switch handle, with reverse side which has a special relief cut out, thanks to it, the contacts are pressed or raised at a certain position of the switch lever.

In the center of the handle there is a hole for a spring, which, together with a metal ball (Figure 16), provides stepwise switching of modes. When disassembling, you must ensure that the spring and ball are not lost. It is better to immediately put them, for example, in a matchbox.

The stationary ones are located at the top, and the movable ones have a springy structure, thanks to which the contacts close if nothing acts on them. When switching modes, the “cams” ​​of the lever press on these contacts, and under their influence they move down and open.

If you look at the contacts from the side (Figure 18), you can see that the neighbor did not return to initial position to complete the circuit.

It is this contact that is responsible for turning on the maximum heating power, which did not work.

In the photo below you can see how the contacts work. When you press on the far contact, it bends.

If you release it, it comes back and completes the circuit.

We do the same with another contact.

Down, it is pressed, but does not come back (Figure 22).

Most likely, the flexible conductor with the contact rubs against the side inner wall of the switch housing and is locked in the down position. This is the reason for the incorrect operation of the device in one of the modes.

To return normal work switch, you must perform the following sequence of actions:

1. Gently squeeze the contact block with duck pliers or small pliers. This will allow the contact to move more freely in the groove of the switch housing.
   Rice. 23. Squeeze the contact block
2. Additionally, you need to process the edges of the flexible conductors with a needle file. To do this, the contact pad itself can be removed. This will make it easier to process them.
   Rice. 24. Clean the edges of the conductors with a file
3. Also, using a needle file, we clean the contacts from carbon deposits.
   Rice. 25. Getting rid of carbon deposits
4. We put the contact pad in place.
   Rice. 26. Putting the platform in place
5. For better glide, lubricate internal walls hulls lithol.
   Rice. 27. Lithol on the tip of the cutter
   Rice. 28. Lubricate with lithol

Now you can check how the progress of the contact has improved. Press your finger on the contact and release it.

It can be seen that the contact now works normally, and nothing interferes with its progress.

It is better to insert a metal ball into one of the grooves on the body (Figure 31). This will prevent it from jumping off the spring when installing the switch handle.

It is important which side the switch handle is placed on, since the correct operation of the switch depends on this.

When the correct side is determined, turn the lever over so that the center of the spring hits the ball and not to the side.

Holding the handle, we put it on it top part switch housing.

Without releasing the cover, tighten the two fastening screws (Fig. 33). Now the switch is ready, and without assembling the hair dryer, you can check its operation in different modes.

Since live parts are open, switching modes must be done with the power plug disconnected from the network. And only after making the switch, supply power.

We all know this one auxiliary tool in construction, like a construction electric hair dryer, which we are used to using to remove paint and varnish coatings.

Fundamental operating principle construction hair dryer not much different from an ordinary hair dryer that we use to dry our hair.

Accordingly electrical diagram construction hair dryer is similar to the electrical circuit of an ordinary hair dryer.

The following explanation will be given in this topic:

• electrical diagram of a hair dryer;
• operating principle of a hair dryer;
• possible causes of the malfunction;
• troubleshooting these problems.

Electrical circuit of a hair dryer

Let's look at the electrical diagram \Fig. 1\ of a hair dryer:

One diagonal of the diode bridge is connected to an external 220V AC voltage source.

The other diagonal of the diode bridge is connected to the electric motor.

The electrical circuit consists of the following elements:

• toggle switch that implements the temperature control mode - K1;
• a toggle switch that controls the rotation speed of the electric motor rotor \blowing speed control\ - K2;
• Toggle switch for turning off heating elements - K3;
• electric motor \fan\ - M;
• capacitor - C;
• heating elements - R\TEN\;
• diodes - VD1, VD2.

Through a diode bridge circuit \one diagonal of the bridge\ the rectified current of two potentials \+,-\ is supplied to the electric motor. When moving from the anode to the cathode, the current flows at a positive half-cycle of the sinusoidal voltage.

Two capacitors connected in parallel in the electrical circuit serve as additional smoothing filters.

The blowing speed occurs due to the variability of resistance in the electrical circuit, that is, when the speed toggle switch is switched to highest value resistance, - the rotation speed of the electric motor rotor decreases due to a voltage drop.

The number of heating elements \heaters\ in this scheme is four. The temperature regime of the hair dryer is controlled by a temperature control toggle switch.

Heating elements in an electrical circuit have different resistances; accordingly, the heating temperature when switching from one section of the electrical circuit to another - heating of the heating elements will correspond to its resistance value.

General appearance construction hair dryer with its names individual parts, - shown in Fig. 2

The following electrical diagram of a construction hair dryer \Fig. 3\ is comparable to the electrical diagram of Fig. 1

There is no diode bridge in this electrical circuit. Airflow speed control and control temperature conditions, - occurs when switching from one section of the electrical circuit to another, namely:

• when switching to a section of an electrical circuit - consisting of a diode;
• when switching to a section of an electrical circuit that does not have a diode.

When current flows in the anode-cathode junction of the diode VD1, which has its own resistance, the heating element2 will heat up according to two resistance values:

• resistance at the transition anode - cathode of diode VD1;
• resistance of the heating element \TEN2\.

When current flows in the junction, the anode - cathode of the diode VD2, the voltage supplied to the electric motor and heating element1, will take the lowest value.

Accordingly, the rotation speed of the electric motor rotor and the heating temperature of the heating element for a given section of the electrical circuit will correspond to the direct transition of the current of the diode VD2. The heating of the heating element \TEN1\ for a given section also depends on its internal resistance, that is, the resistance of the heating element is taken into account.

Malfunctions of a hair dryer

The main reasons for the malfunction of a hair dryer can be called a malfunction of electronic elements:

1. diodes;
2. capacitors.

Most often, such a malfunction occurs when there is a sharp jump in the external AC voltage source. For example, the cause of a malfunction of a capacitor is caused by the fact that the plates of the capacitor are short-circuited with each other during a voltage surge.

Of course, the possibility of a malfunction such as a break in the stator winding of the electric motor (winding burnout) cannot be ruled out.

Minor malfunctions include the following reasons:

• oxidation of temperature control toggle switch contacts;
• oxidation of the contacts of the toggle switch for controlling the blowing speed;
• oxidation of the contacts of the toggle switch to turn off the heating elements;
• wire break in the network cable;
• malfunction plug\lack of contact\.

Diagnostics to identify the cause of the malfunction is carried out using a “Multimeter” device.

When replacing a capacitor, its capacitance and rated voltage are taken into account.

When replacing a diode, the resistance of two values ​​is taken into account, in the directions:

• from anode to cathode;
• from cathode to anode.

As we know, the resistance value from anode to cathode will be significantly less than from cathode to anode.

With an electric motor, if it malfunctions, things are more complicated. In case of such a malfunction, it is easier to replace the electric motor than to rewind the stator windings. But such work can also be done - whoever is directly involved in such repairs. In this case, the following is taken into account:

1. number of turns in the stator winding;
2. cross-section of copper wire.

A malfunction such as heating element burnout cannot be ruled out. The heating element is replaced taking into account its resistance value.

Diagnostics and repair of a construction hair dryer

Let's consider the design of electric motors and how exactly it is necessary to diagnose electrical machines, as they are commonly considered in the section on electrical engineering.

For clear example, photographs of several types of such electrical machines are presented - related to commutator electric motors. The design and principle of operation allow for two commutator electric motors:

• vacuum cleaner;
• construction hair dryer,

- is no different. The difference in electric motors is only in the speed of rotation of the rotor and the power of the electric motor. Therefore, we will not focus our attention in the sense that explanations are given that are not related to the electric motor of a construction hair dryer.

Electric motor of a construction hair dryer

The electric motor of a construction hair dryer is asynchronous, commutator, single-phase alternating current.

single-phase AC asynchronous commutator motor

The electrical circuit of the commutator motor \Fig. 5\ looks like this:

In the diagram we can notice that a commutator motor can operate on both alternating and direct current - these are the laws of physics.

The two stator windings of the electric motor are connected in series. Two graphite brushes in contact - in electrical connection with the motor rotor commutator.

The electrical circuit is closed on the rotor windings; accordingly, the rotor windings in the electrical circuit are connected in parallel through the brush-commutator sliding contact.

diagnostics of electric motor stator windings

The photograph shows one of the methods for diagnosing the stator windings of an electric motor. In this way, the integrity or breakdown of the insulation of the stator windings is checked. That is, one probe of the device is connected to any of the output ends of the stator windings, the other probe of the device is connected to the stator core.

In the event that the insulation of the stator winding is broken and the winding wiring is shorted to the core, the device will indicate the mode short circuit\zero resistance value\. It follows that the stator winding is faulty.

The device in the photograph indicates a unit when diagnosing - this will not mean that this stator winding is suitable for use.

It is also necessary to measure the resistance of the windings themselves. Diagnostics is carried out in the same similar way - the probes of the device are connected to the removed ends of the wires of the stator windings. If the windings are intact, the device display will indicate the resistance value of one or the other winding. If one or another stator winding breaks, the device will show “one”. If the wires of the stator winding are short-circuited with each other as a result of overheating of the electric motor or for other reasons, the device will indicate the lowest \zero\ resistance value or “short circuit mode”.

How to check the rotor windings for resistance with a device? — To do this, you need to connect two probes of the device to two opposite sides of the commutator, that is, you need to make the same connection that the graphite brushes have in electrical connection with the commutator. The diagnostic results are reduced to the same indications as when diagnosing the stator windings.

commutator plate wear

What exactly is a collector? — The collector is a hollow cylinder consisting of small copper plates of a special alloy, isolated both from each other and from the rotor shaft.

In the event that the damage to the collector plates is insignificant, the collector plates are cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. Again, this amount of work will be performed directly only by specialists involved in the repair of electric motors.

The electrical circuit \Fig. 7\ consists of a battery and a light bulb; this circuit is comparable to the circuit of a flashlight. One end of the wire with a negative potential is connected to the stator core, the other end of the wire with positive potential connects to one of the output ends of the stator windings. If the wires are connected in reverse, that is, “plus” to the stator core, “minus” to the output end of the stator winding, nothing changes.

If there is an insulation breakdown, when the stator winding is short-circuited with the core, the light bulb in this electrical circuit will light up. Accordingly, if the light does not light up, it means that the stator winding is not closed to the stator core.

This diagnostic method \Fig. 7\ is not complete. Accurate diagnostics are carried out only with an Ohmmeter or a Multimeter with a set resistance measurement range, for subsequent measurement of the resistance of the stator windings.

At least once in her life, every woman faces the problem of a hair dryer breaking down during the most inopportune moment. , if another working device is ready in the wings. But often there is no such option, and we urgently have to solve the problem. You can contact service center, or you can try to fix the damage at home. To repair a hair dryer with your own hands, you need to understand the principle of operation of this device.

Design

Different manufacturers offer many models that differ from each other in shape, color and availability additional functions. However, one thing remains unchanged. Whatever hair dryer you buy, the design principle is almost the same; therefore, when making repairs, you need to pay attention to the same problems.

First, let's study how a hair dryer works. Main details of the inside of the hair dryer:

engine,

fan,

heating element,

electrical circuit.

At the same time, the electrical circuit is quite simple, and there is nothing more complicated than a thyristor. The hair dryer box is either plastic or metal, but both are secured with different types of bolts.

Therefore, before starting repairs, prepare the right tool. Often the house does not have a suitable screwdriver or socket to unscrew a bolt. In addition to bolts, there may be special latches on the body. Proceed with caution - the fasteners are easy to break. Don't pull too hard without knowing if you're opening correctly. Sometimes important elements hidden by a sticker.

We inspect and repair your hair dryer yourself

Before you begin inspecting the device, you must unplug the hair dryer. When working with any electrical appliance, you must strictly follow all safety rules. We are now counting on a reader who has not received a technical education, but has simply encountered a problem and wants to solve it without extra costs and loss of time. Before you start inspecting the hair dryer itself, check that the outlet is working properly by connecting some other device or table lamp. If everything is in order and the socket is working, move on to the hair dryer.

The cord can also act up in a professional Philips hair dryer.

This is the first thing we pay attention to, and first we check its integrity. Sharp teeth are often the cause of breakage. pet. We inspect both the cord itself and the plug. If no problems are visible from the outside, we disassemble the hair dryer and look inside.

Contacts or soldering may have become loose and come off. We act as we discover a problem: twist or solder, connect the broken ends of the wire and wrap it with electrical tape. It's best if you replace the cord. You can use a whole cord from another device.

Switches

The problem may also be a broken switch. In this case, it is possible to close the circuit without the involvement of a toggle switch until you find a suitable replacement.

In this case, the hair dryer will start working as soon as you plug the plug into the outlet. Moreover, after opening the case, carefully examine the inside for the presence of carbon deposits or melts. The charred parts need to be replaced, and the carbon deposits must be removed with an eraser, and then wipe everything off with alcohol.

The fan is covered not only in Daewoo di 6805s

Often in women, especially those with long hair, the fan blades become clogged with hair elements, and the hair dryer stops working. To repair, you need to carefully clean the fan blades, filters, and motor axis. This can be done either with your hands or with a brush.

Is the spiral broken? Repair instructions

If the device overheats frequently, a breakdown of the spiral may become a problem. Most often it just burns out. Upon careful examination, you can immediately see what the reason is. After detecting a break in the spiral, you can make a replacement by purchasing a similar option. Spiral repairs are also allowed. You can do this:

twisting the ends together

soldering the torn place,

connect the spiral using copper wire or tubes.

It is worth noting that replacing a ceramic element is usually an expensive procedure, so if you are not sure of the correctness of your actions, take it to new element and a hairdryer for the master.

The motor fails in hair styling devices

This is the most difficult option in this case, since repairing the engine requires certain knowledge and skills. Having examined the motor, we can conclude whether the cause of the breakdown is in it or not.

If, when you turn on the hair dryer, you notice a strong crackling sound or a spark, then the motor is to blame. After inspecting the housing, windings and brushes, take the motor to a workshop or find the same new one and replace it. After replacement, we recommend lubricating the parts so that movements occur smoothly, without friction.

Microcircuits

If the problem is not found in the above parts of the device, then it may be hidden in the microcircuit. There are several possible breakdowns here:

a crack in the getinax and a break in the track: solder this area;

damage to the capacitor: swollen parts are removed and replaced with new ones;

burnt resistor: darkened elements are also replaced with new ones.

Heating regulator

This part protects the hair dryer from overheating. If it breaks, it does not allow the hair dryer to turn on at all. IN in this case you can either replace the broken part, or remove the regulator from the circuit and make a closed circuit. By plugging in the hair dryer, you will see whether the steps helped or whether the problem lies elsewhere.

Although we have reviewed almost all possible breakdowns, there are cases when everything listed is checked, but the hair dryer still does not work. In such cases, it is better to contact a specialist. Moreover, the hair dryers used by hairdressers, that is, the professional line, have complex design, and repairing such models is much more difficult. Simple and inexpensive options may be disposable and cannot be repaired.

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Nevertheless, we hope that the advice will help you cope with the problem and that such a misfortune as a broken hair dryer will not ruin your mood.