DIY wooden box. DIY wooden boxes: from simple to complex

The box is one of the most common products among woodworkers. If you wish, you can make such a box with your own hands.

As for DIY wooden box Planks made of pine, linden, and alder are suitable - they are easier to process and cut. First, we determine the size and thickness of the walls. As an example, consider a box measuring 10:10:8 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm. You will need 2 boards 1 cm thick. One 8 cm wide and 40 cm long and the other 10 cm wide and 20 m long. From the long one we cut 4 sidewalls measuring 8 by 10 cm. And from the other, the top and bottom measuring 10 by 10 cm. To join the sidewalls, mark with inside cutting thickness:
We cut the bevel with a jamb knife at 45 degrees and adjust the joint with sandpaper or on a block. To assemble parts, it is good to use a special device:
The main thing here is that it is rigid and has angles of 90 degrees. After adjusting the sidewalls, glue the parts together using PVA glue. Then glue the bottom and top. We wait a day for gluing and bring the workpiece to an even cube using sandpaper. Then, at a distance of 2 cm from the top, we carefully saw through each side of the workpiece with a hacksaw:
We polish the resulting parts and chamfer the hinges on the back side of the box so that they sink a little. You can buy the hinges for the box ready-made, or you can, for example, from a metal coffee can:
A thin wire can be used as an axis. We put it in the middle, and bend the loop blank around it, crimp it with pliers. To prevent the lid of the box from moving, we drill in the front wall and lid small holes and insert the dowel into the bottom one:
Now you can in different ways: carving, painting, decoupage, burning, etc. as your imagination dictates.

Box blanks

Many wood craftsmen make beautiful, very wooden boxes. A jewelry box made of Karelian birch will decorate the interior of your home. How to do a simple box interesting shape and cut on it geometric carving watch and read.

Wooden boxes must be made from dry material. I usually make it from birch, since the wood is uniform in density, cuts, paints and finishes well. I select birch without knots and cracks; the box blanks must be cut from boards of the same shade. If you cut out the parts and do not look at the shade and color of the board, then when varnishing a wood product you can get an uneven color.
170 x 125 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
150 x 48 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
90 x 48 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
800 x 28 x 10 mm - 1 piece
500 x 12 x 12 mm - 1 piece

First of all, on jointer We plane one side and the edge of the board, then use a surface planer to cut it to the required thickness, and then use a saw to cut out the dimensions of the workpieces.

Making a box

The main steps in making such a wooden box:

milling of blanks
gluing the box
carving on the box
interior decoration
tinting and varnishing

Milling blanks

Wooden boxes of this shape are made using a router. It is necessary to mill some individual parts before gluing. On milling machine I ran the lid and bottom on all four sides. I made four legs from a long piece. I overtook three sides and cut it on a saw to 40 x 28 mm. Then I milled the end and trimmed it again right size. I made four legs this way. On the corner fragments, I also selected an angle of 7 x 7 mm on the machine, from a long piece and sawed off four 35 mm pieces with a fine-tooth file. I chose 17 x 12 mm grooves at the ends of the long walls.

Gluing the box

Lately I've been using PVA glue for crafts. I always buy only professional ones and recommend them to you. The first thing you need to do is glue the walls together. Coat with a thin layer and knock down with small nails. We mark the lid and bottom evenly, coat the joints and place a weight on top and leave to dry. Again on the milling machine, installing the saw, I separate the cover from the base, leaving 10 mm of the glued base on the cover. I mark, coat the legs and corner pieces and glue them to the base of the box.

Carving on the box

Wooden boxes made of birch can be very beautifully carved using geometric carvings. Carvings on the lid of the box I mark the design with a hard, well-sharpened pencil. First of all, I draw the main drawing and add various combinations to it. When carving using only one cutter.

Interior decoration

Before pasting with material, you need to install two small loops. Having marked it evenly, we nail it with small nails, first to the lid, and then to the base. Having measured and cut the material, we coat the places on the box with glue and then carefully glue it. I use glue - moment.

Tinting and varnishing

The tinting of any wood product must be done carefully. Select the color on a sample piece. I do this using scraps from a box I'm making. Once you are sure that you have chosen what you wanted, proceed to tinting. When applying, rub well and cover evenly using a brush and a soft cloth. Let the wooden box dry thoroughly and only then start varnishing. I coat my wood products with waterproof varnish three times. I described earlier in the article how to make an unusual oval box. In the future I will show and tell you what other wooden boxes can be made.

There is a tradition of giving each other gifts during the holidays. Someone will run to the store and buy a lot of useless trinkets. But you and I certainly don’t need this: firstly, we can make anything ourselves, and secondly, the gift should not only be beautiful, but also practical, so that after the holiday it does not gather dust on the shelf. In addition, there will be something to do in the evenings free from gardening chores.
I propose to make such a wonderful box as a gift. Its shape can be very different, but, as an example, I suggest making a small box with a square-shaped lid. Its production has its own specific features, one of which is that it is assembled entirely - the body with the lid and bottom. I propose to make it with dimensions of 150x80x60 mm: cover -10x80x150 mm, bottom - plywood 12x80x150 mm, side - 10x50x150 mm, end side - 10x50x70 mm.
Gluing the box

First, I used a fine-toothed hacksaw to cut out four rectangular blanks from planed wooden planks– two long and two short, with the same width and the same thickness (10 mm). It is advisable to take linden for this, as it lends itself well to processing, can be easily planed with a plane and cleaned sandpaper.
Before assembling the box, grooves for tenons are cut out in the long sidewalls, and tenons are cut out in the short end sidewalls according to the size of the grooves 4x4 mm. Having adjusted the grooves and tenons to the square, we assemble the box: the ends of the short sides are smeared with wood glue and placed in the grooves of the long sides, which are also smeared with glue. These sides can be fastened by compression with clamps or using specially made wooden sticks- dowels. At the moment of gluing, you need to work quickly and check with a square that the parts are correctly positioned.
The glued frame of the box must dry before the glue hardens. Usually a day is enough for this.

Bottom and cover

When the frame of the product is removed from the clamp, you need to align the edges to which the bottom will be glued and the lid will touch. To do this, you need to fix a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the edges on it with some effort.
Then the bottom is made of plywood and the lid is made of planks. The bottom and lid should be rectangular, slightly larger in size than the size of the glued box. I glue the prepared lid and bottom onto the walls of the box using preheated glue (in a water bath): I lubricate the surfaces of the lid, bottom and edges of the box with a thin layer, place the lid and bottom on the edges of the box and clamp it with a clamp. Please note: during this process, make sure that the lid or bottom does not move in any direction!
To allow the glue in the box to dry, I put it on the shelf. The box holds in a clamped state for about a day, then I remove the clamp, inspect it, plan the excess allowances on the edge and bottom with a plane, and then clean it with sandpaper. Along the perimeter of the lid, I use a plane to chamfer 14 mm wide and have a slope of 5 mm. Next, using a surface planer, I make a line at a distance of 20 mm from the top to cut the lid. Along the dividing line, you need to carefully cut the box lengthwise with a fine-toothed hacksaw (you can use a metal saw) on all four sides. This technique allows you to perfectly adjust the size of the lid to the size of the base of the box. The cut points should be ground in on a sheet of coarse sandpaper.

We hang the hinges

I hang the lid on the hinges with a cut-in and fastening the hinges with screws. You don’t always find hinges on sale small sizes And various shapes. If you don’t have the necessary hinges, you should make them yourself from metal or wood. Metal hinges can be single-layer or double-layer. I make two-layer loops, the process of making them is simpler. We bend a strip of metal in half, insert a nail into the bend and squeeze the metal around it in a vice. In the same way we make the second half of the loop. Then we mark the loop lengthwise into three parts. On one of the sides we file off the two outer parts, leaving the middle; on the other, on the contrary, we saw out the middle, leaving curls along the edges. We combine the twisted parts of both halves of the loop and insert a nail or wire inside, sharpening it on both sides
file. We cut off both sides of the hinges and drill holes, followed by countersinking them for screw heads.

Straw finish

Using a soft rag, I make a tampon, moisten it with stain and cover the box, after which I leave it to dry for 3-4 hours. After drying, I pass it with fine sandpaper so that there is no lint left. Before transferring the design, the wooden base is evenly wiped adhesive solution. The glue used is the same one that will later be used to attach the appliqué elements with straws. This technique creates a ground layer on which the parts of the straw set are firmly fixed.
In 2005, not far from our dachas, rye was sown in one field and wheat in another. Taking with me garden pruner, I went to these fields and cut rye and wheat straw. They differ well: wheat straw is lighter, and rye straw is darker. Rye straws have longer nodes, while wheat ones have shorter nodes, just like the straw itself. I cut the straws from knot to knot and put them in cardboard box, rye separately from wheat. Next I put the straw in a small enamel pan and pour boiling water over it for 30 minutes, after which I cut the straw on one side and immediately smooth it on the cardboard with a hot iron: first from the inside, and then from the outside. By the way, when you hold the iron longer on the straw, it turns out darker. I select the smoothed ribbon strips by width and put them in different boxes.
Strips of straw can be easily cut with a joint knife sharpened to an oblique width of 1 mm or 1.5 mm, depending on the design. We also cut into squares and diamonds. Circles can be cut out using a punch tube. This work is quite complex, almost like jewelry. I put all the cut out parts into matchboxes.

Let's start the application

Plan your drawing in advance, it all depends on your imagination. We apply the image this way:
pour a few drops of glue onto a piece of cardboard;
Using a pointed nail or awl, apply the straw piece and touch the drop of glue with its lower plane;
We transfer the part to the appropriate place, and to remove it from the tip of the tool, we lightly press it with a pointed stick, which we hold in the other hand;
Turn the stick over and press the part to the base with the flat end.
Then another part is applied and glued. And this is how the entire composition of the drawing is gradually filled in. Once we've finished one side of the box, move on to the next. When gluing the parts of the straw, I usually start by laying out the internal or external contours of the image, then the next row of the pattern is glued, etc., until all the planes of the composition are filled.
And if the walls of the box are decorated, gluing the straw parts should begin with laying out the outer perimeters, and then lay out the configurations of elements planned in advance in them.
Varnishing is done using a wide soft squirrel brush. The product dries and then, where necessary, is sanded in certain places. Just don’t get carried away with varnishes: excessive shine is not a sign of a well-made item!
The box is ready! If you did everything correctly and carefully, it can become a decoration for a buffet or chest of drawers and store many things dear to your heart.

DIY box using transcryl technique

Decoupage, craquelure, gilding – these decoration techniques have long been loved by our needlewomen. But what to do if you want to decorate the surface not with a stamped napkin design, but with your favorite photograph or a favorite magazine clipping?

In such cases, help creative people transcril comes - modern remedy to transfer images. Thanks to a special emulsion, today we will decorate a jewelry box.

Manufacturing:

DIY box using transcrete technique photo
1. From the very beginning, we need to paint the surface of the box, as is done for ordinary decoupage. We take a kitchen sponge (you can cut off half - we will use the other part later), squeeze acrylic paint from a tube onto it and apply an even layer of primer to the box. We only paint external sides products: lid and base of the box with bottom. Leave the painted surfaces aside and wait about 20 minutes for the primer to dry.

2. Then, using the same kitchen sponge, apply a second layer of ivory paint. Now the coating looks more saturated.

3. Mandatory stage Before applying the image, coat the product with acrylic varnish. The fact is that the drawing will be applied slightly wet, and the water will spoil the acrylic paint coating - it will wrinkle and form holes. Therefore, we take a wide brush, dip it in acrylic varnish and cover the lid of the box with a generous layer. We will be making Transril only on the lid, so the main part of the product can remain unvarnished for now. We set the lid of the box aside - the varnish will dry for 15-20 minutes.

4. While the varnish is drying, let's take on the transcryl. Cut out your favorite image of a piece of jewelry from a magazine. You don’t have to cut along the contour, so we leave it empty seats between the “rays” of the decoration.

5. Now we spread a transparent file in front of us, put a design with decoration on it and take a second (clean) piece of a kitchen sponge. Apply a little transcryl product to it and, using patting movements (they will ensure an even layer), cover the entire image.

6. This coating takes at least 20 minutes to dry. It is very important that it dries completely, because next we will apply another layer of transcryl to the drawing. Then, when the second layer has dried, apply a third one. Well, when the third layer has dried, we can carefully pick up the edge of the image and remove it from the file. Before us is a drawing of a jewel, covered with a film of transcryl. Thanks to chemical composition, this product turns into a film that absorbs any pattern.

7. Now pour water room temperature on any plate or bowl. Place the drawing in transcryl film into the water, face down. The paper part of the drawing should be well soaked, so wait at least 15 minutes (the time depends on the thickness of the paper from which we cut the drawing). After this time, we can carefully begin to roll up “sausages” of paper from the back of the image with our fingers. The easiest way to do this is to start from the center of the drawing.

8. Having cleared the transcril film from the paper covering, remove it from the water and rinse it under the tap (remove small pieces paper). Now we take scissors and correct the drawing - cut out all its corners.

9. To stick the film with the pattern to the surface of the box, we do not need any glue. We simply cover the lid of the product with a layer of transcryl.

10. Then we place our image with the jewel in the center of the lid of the box. Use your fingers to smooth out the film so that there are no wrinkles.

11. Well, on top we cover the lid of the box with another layer of transcryl - this will fix the design and serve as a kind of varnish. If the entire surface of the lid is already covered with transcryl, leave it for a while to dry.

12. To prevent the surface of the lid from looking empty, apply a little paste with a bronze effect. To do this, squeeze the paste out of the tube onto forefinger and lightly rub the pigment into the space around the design with decoration.

13. Use the same bronze paste to decorate the main part of the box: apply light strokes of pigment to it. The final step is application. acrylic varnish on both parts of the box, with which we will secure the decor. It is best to apply not one layer of varnish, but two or three - then the box will shine more and look more festive.

Materials and tools:

Wooden box
Acrylic primer for decoupage (ivory color)
Kitchen sponge
Acrylic lacquer
Varnish brush
Image transfer tool (transcryl)
Scissors
Magazine clipping
Transparent file or regular cellophane
Transcryl brush
Decorative paste with bronze effect

Today in the master class I will show you how to make a box that will last forever, so that it can be passed on to the inheritance. The whole process will be shown from creating the wooden box itself to decorating it.

I make almost all the blanks for my work myself and people often ask me questions regarding the blanks specifically. Therefore, I want to divide my MK into two parts.
Part No. 1 - blank.
Part No. 2 - decor.

So, I'm starting part #1.

We will need:

• Plywood 8 mm,
• Wooden block 2*4 cm,
• Nails,
• Glue moment "Crystal"
• Jigsaw,
• Screwdriver with grinding attachment,
• Hammer,
• Blowtorch (gas cylinder)
• stain on water based(Oak color)
• Sandpaper (various thicknesses)

In this photo, I have already cut the plywood into pieces of the required length.

Before I start making a blank, I sketch out a drawing on a piece of paper. Here, I share with you my “drawings”.
To understand what we will collect.
The box will be rectangular shape(front view). Inside (top view) the box will be divided into three parts. middle part will be covered with a lid, and on the left side there will be a separately made small box. As planned, this is for the first tooth.

This is a “drawing” of the lids, which will be located alone inside the large box, in the middle compartment. And the second one is on a small box for a tooth (only it will be square).
The lids will consist of two parts. I labeled them as: Lid and Inner Lid.

And these are all the dimensions that we need for a large box.
Naturally, these are inaccurate numbers (since our plywood is 0.8 cm thick), so you will have to sand some pieces.

These are the dimensions for a “tooth” box.

I’ll say right away, because I have to answer this question most often. People ask why they can’t cut plywood straight with a jigsaw?
And I can't do it! Then, after cutting, I carefully polish each end of the piece. An ideal cut is only possible on a machine with a jigsaw; no matter how you look at it, you won’t be able to cut it straight.
I'm lucky, our friends have theirs furniture manufacturing. Of course, I won’t go to them just for one box (so as not to bother me), but when I need to cut a lot of plywood, I go to them and they’ll cut everything for me in 10 minutes. Thank them very much for this!
I lay out all the pieces of plywood (after having thoroughly sanded all the walls that will be inside the box, otherwise it will be inconvenient to do this later) and, armed with glue, I begin to assemble the box.

When the glue “sets”, I knock everything down with nails. The length of the nails is 2 cm.

Little by little the outlines of the future box are already visible.
I always assemble the boxes in this order. First the bottom, then the ends, and then the front sides.

This is how the tray turned out.

As we can see, the side walls stick out a little. We carefully sand all such places.

The first cap is ready. The lid is on the middle compartment inside the box.
Just glue and knock together two rectangular pieces.
Of course, the carnations are visible from the inside, but we will cover them later with decorative nails.

The middle cap took its rightful place. And the small “tooth” box is ready.

Here it is, but closer.

Next, you need to put a lid on a large box. For this we need wooden block(2*2 cm is good, but I didn’t find that, I only found 2*4 cm).
In general, I had to saw it lengthwise to get the dimensions I needed. This is where a jigsaw comes in handy.

Cover in progress. I glue the bars with glue and knock them down (on top) with nails.

The preparation is ready! You can start firing.

Attention! Dangerous! Work with blowtorch, requires special care. Do not handle it for children! Adults should take it only in the presence of a bucket of water!
I have been working with stain for a long time, but I like the way stain looks after firing. The result is a flow of colors. That’s why I always “resort” to firing.
I saw a lot of works (by other masters) with firing. I don’t want to offend anyone, but sometimes I just want to scream: “Why are you burning plywood like that?” Plywood is not wood, it does not require strong firing. Moreover, she is AFRAID strong fire. The plywood begins to burn layer by layer and unsightly burnt chips form.
In general, we lightly burn the workpiece, and we burn it so that the “pattern” of the scorch marks is initially beautiful.

I cover it with stain three times (this is optional, depending on how intense you want the final color).

Then we take sandpaper (of varying hardness) and begin to rub all the ends, giving the plywood an old, centuries-old look.
You can see in the photo that the small box has already been sanded.

And this is the lid from a large box. BEFORE and AFTER view.
Perhaps this is where I will finish part one. And I will move on to the second stage.

We will need:

• Trafatters,
• Putty,
• PVA glue,
• Acrylic paints,
• Acrylic enamel,
• Construction paper tape,
• Felling,
• Microbeads, rhinestones, beads,
• Claim flowers (paper, plastic),
• Various metal fittings and other little things for decoration (of your choice).

We will only decorate the lids, and if you remember, we have 3 of them.

As always, I mix the putty (finishing putty, construction putty) with water and PVA glue. This is the consistency.
There is about half a cup of putty, 1 teaspoon of pva and 1 teaspoon of water.

I'm making the stencils more comfortable.

And I transfer the drawing to the workpiece.

To prevent the design on the lids from looking monotonous, I use two different stencils.

The stencils are applied, we are waiting for complete drying.
After drying, I carefully sand all the inscriptions with fine sandpaper.

I will paint all these decors black acrylic paint. Some I paint with a brush, some with a sponge, and some by complete immersion in a glass in which I diluted black paint in water.

While it looks a little gloomy, I even felt sad at that moment. It looks like the box should be “Mom’s Treasures,” but here the flowers are black. I continue to work.

I also paint the lids black.

Then, while the black color is still wet, I touch it a little with a sponge and here and there with green paint (also acrylic). We wait until it dries.
While I wait, I decide to varnish all my boxes. I use nitro varnish. I varnish 5-6 times, carefully sanding each layer of varnish so that the final surface is smooth.

I return to the lids when the first (black layer) has dried.

I mix greens with white and apply paint to the surface with a wide brush. As if highlighting the relief.

I apply the paint like this: the first layer, for example, along. The second layer of paint, the one that will be lighter, across. And then it’s the other way around again.

Each time I add a little more white.

In the end, I settled on this color.

It looks like the color is already pretty good, but I want to add a little pearl. Acrylic enamel is quite suitable for this role. I dip the sponge a little into the enamel and walk over the surface of the lids.

It's hard to see in the photo, but the shine has appeared. Exactly what is needed!

I wanted to make my own wooden boxes as gifts. For greater accuracy and good, correct angles I needed cutting machine. From this manual you will learn how to prepare a blade for a laser machine, as well as tips on how to find all the necessary materials.

Making wooden boxes with your own hands

Step 1. Materials

Upholstery nails (available at your local store or Home Depot)

Padlock

Vintage pens (I found mine on Ebay)

Clear wood glue

Black mascara

Tools:

Laser cutting machine

Hammer

Step 2. Preparing the blade for the laser machine

The document format must be 61cmx91cm, in RGB colors and 300 points per 2.5 cm.

In order to cut the pieces properly, all the lines must be black, be careful when you cover them!

You can look at the document I used.

Step 3. Wood processing

Because the laser machine burns the wood, ash and a strong odor remain on the cut parts.

I suggest that you first take the wooden parts outside overnight to get rid of the smell and then clean them with a wet cloth.

Then, apply paint of any color of your choice. I only applied one coat so that all the wood lines could be seen.

Leave them to dry for 6 hours.

Step 4. Assembling the box

Assemble the sides first using clear wood glue. Leave for 5 minutes.

Then glue all the borders to secure the bottom and top.

Be careful when pressing on these last parts.

Step 5. Decorating the box

I used finishing nails to give the box a vintage, traditional look.

Be careful with nails! Since the box is made of only one layer of wood, they can come out from the inside!

The solution I found is to use them both for decoration and for fixing. This is why the nails are only driven in on the outer edge of the top of the box. This way they attach tightly top part to the sides.

My wood was very thin, so I had to be very careful driving the nails in so that they didn't show from the inside.

Do not hammer them in, as this may damage the box. Use a tool to press them into the wood.

Step 6: Vintage Accessories

I bought the hinges and lock at a regular store, but I couldn't find the vintage handles.

Your best bet is to look for them online. These pens are quite expensive compared to the ones you can find on Ebay. I bought 9 pens for 300r, but they were quite old, so I had to clean them.

Drill holes and attach all these decorative items.

I wrote inscriptions on the top and inside of the box in black ink.

Admire your new box or give it to someone as a gift!