There are many ways to sharpen knives. Modern industry, promptly responding to the requests of professionals and just private craftsmen who want to use quality tool, has developed and is introducing into production special sharpening devices.
By using homemade sharpener for knives, you can sharpen the knife at any angle, since the sharpening angle is independently adjustable.
But it happens that the factory device for one reason or another does not suit the customer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands. This will most likely be much cheaper and, possibly, much more convenient for its creator.
A necessary condition for proper sharpening of knives
The purpose of any sharpening of a dull tool is, at first glance, simple and understandable. But making a knife sharp is only part of the solution to the whole problem. The most important factor for long and efficient operation product is the sharpening angle.
Figure 1. Cross section of the blade: 1 - cutting edge (RK), 2 - approach, 3 - sharpening angle, 4 - descent, 5 - butt.
The significance of this factor can be assessed in practice. It would seem that the smaller we make the angle between the edges of the blade, the sharper the knife becomes. But such an action leads to the fact that our object will not be able to demonstrate its improved cutting qualities for very long. Moreover, the sharper the knife turns out to be, the faster it will become dull, since a direct pattern appears here - the more smaller angle sharpening, the less strength the cutting edge of the blade has.
Thus, the task of high-quality sharpening of knives comes down to restoring the sharpness of the blade while maintaining correct angle sharpening. In a sense, sharpening is the process of restoring a previously set angle. And it can be considered correct in the case when it fully complies with certain technological standards and cuts the material for which the knife is intended as efficiently, freely and quickly as possible.
Therefore, each blade is sharpened at its own optimal angle.
However, doing this without a special device is generally difficult. The fact is that, holding the knife with your hands, it is difficult to ensure uniform sharpening with the given angles of inclination of the cutting edges.
To eliminate this problem there are special devices for sharpening knives that you can make yourself. It is worth noting that usually their designs, despite the great variety, do not differ in any way increased complexity, and the manufacture of such devices takes relatively little time.
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Materials and tools needed for sharpening knives
The following preparations and tools will help you make simple and quite good devices:
- wooden blocks;
- a set of abrasive whetstones (musats);
- hacksaws (for metal and wood);
- electric drill;
- chisel;
- files;
- plane;
- clamp;
- a set of various sandpapers;
- marking devices;
- screws, nuts.
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What types of sharpening devices are there: a few examples
It is quite difficult to describe in detail all the sharpening devices that exist today. Let's look at some of the most typical and common ones.
The first device is made from two wooden and two abrasive bars of the same size. WITH wooden blanks All burrs should be carefully removed using sandpaper. Then, depending on the required sharpening angle of the knives, preliminary marking of wooden blocks is made. To do this, a corresponding line is drawn on the block.
Techniques for sharpening knife saws: a - planing saw teeth (1 - file, 2 - block, 3 - saw blade), b - sawed through the sinuses with a hacksaw shallow depth, c - setting the saw teeth, d - sharpening the saw teeth (1- rubber pipe, 2 — rubber cover safety, 3 - wooden clamp, 4 - vice).
Next, a sharpening stone is applied to the marked line to fix its width on the wood. On the opposite side of the wooden block, according to the principle of mirror reflection, the corresponding lines are applied.
Along the marked lines on both wooden beams cuts are made with a depth of 1 cm to 1.5 cm. Bars of abrasive material are inserted into the recesses thus obtained. When performing these operations, you need to make sure that all the grooves coincide with the sharpening stones. After this, the abrasive elements are secured with bolts. In order for the resulting sharpening device to be stable and not slide on the work table, to its bottom surface You can attach a piece of rubber.
The second device is based on the principle of vertical arrangement of the knife blade. In this case, the blade being sharpened will move along the abrasive bar, which is fixed at a certain angle to the horizontal and vertical surfaces. As shown practical experience, holding the blade in a vertical position is much easier and more functional than moving the blade along the horizontal plane of an abrasive stone while simultaneously trying to maintain specified angle sharpening.
This device is very easy to make. To do this, you need to take a pair of ready-made wooden squares of the same size. You can also make such corner blanks yourself, ensuring that they have strictly right angles. In several places of both angles, holes are drilled symmetrically into which clamping screws are inserted.
Then you need to mark the horizontal and vertical bars with a centimeter scale. The angle of inclination of the abrasive bar will subsequently be set using it. After setting the desired angle, the sharpener is rigidly fixed in the device using clamping screws.
Using a device of this type in his practice, the grinder will have to become familiar with trigonometry. Using its formulas, it will be possible to accurately determine at which points of the horizontal and vertical bases of the square the edges of the abrasive bar should be fixed. So, for example, with a sharpening angle of x=30°, the horizontal extension of the bar should be 4 cm, and vertically - 15 cm.
The third version of the knife sharpening device considered here is somewhat similar to the previous one. In this case, it is made wooden base, on which two side and one central pads are then placed. They are also made of wood to make it easier to cut their side edges at the angle that will be needed for high-quality sharpening.
This option involves rigidly securing two side pads to the base and a removable (with a screw) central pad. This pad will act as a clamp for the bars. The mating inclined edges of the side and central elements must have the same cut angles.
Thanks to this, it will be possible to clamp the bars at the angle required for sharpening. But, unlike the previous version with angle clamps, this method does not imply smooth adjustment of the angle of inclination of the sharpening stone. Therefore, sharpening a knife blade here can only be done in two rigidly fixed positions.
The following device is based on the exact opposite principle of the two previous versions. In this case, it is not the abrasive bar that is rigidly fixed, but the product being sharpened. The sharpening element is mounted on a fairly long rod.
With its supporting side, the rod is attached to the vertical stand through hinge joints. In this case, the connection of the rod with the stand must ensure free horizontal movement of the bar together with the rod in different directions. A certain one is set by the height at which the movable rod is fixed on a vertical stand.
I used to sharpen kitchen and other knives using sandpaper or a whetstone. All the knives ended up with scratches and the sharpness was poor. I thought about special machine. I looked through a lot of literature and scoured the Internet and found what I wanted. From several options, I chose my own and made the following sharpening machine.
Materials
1. Plywood or plastic plate 10 mm thick.
2. Screws, wing screws, washers and rod (0.5 m) with M6 or M8 thread.
3. Used magnets hard drive computer
4. Bearing from an old coffee grinder.
5. Emery (abrasive skins) sheets and bars of different grain sizes: 120, 320, 600, 1500.
Manufacturing
1. The stationary part of the machine is made of plywood (plastic). Strips 30 cm long and 5 cm long and (10...12) cm wide are fastened with the letter G from the bottom with an aluminum corner. In the upper part we install 1 or 2 magnets (we fill them epoxy resin). We drill a hole in the lower opposite part and install a threaded rod (height 12...15 cm) with a bearing vertically.
On the surface (to support the knife being sharpened) we install a prepared aluminum (or stainless steel) plate with a slot in the middle (up to 2 mm thick) with a wing clamp.
2. The moving part has two options:
Option A. For sharpening with whetstones.
Option B. For sharpening with abrasive cloths.
U aluminum profile 4 sides 25mm wide.
A strip is glued to each side abrasive sandpaper different grain sizes: 120, 320, 600, 1500. For stickers, I use a stationery glue stick. Afterwards, the used strip of skin is easily removed with a knife and a new strip is glued on.
Sharpening process
1. Install the knife to be sharpened as in the photo.
The knife is clearly fixed by a magnet and there is no need to secure it mechanically.
Using a movable stop, we set the knife up to the required position and secure the stop with a wing screw.
We place the moving part of the machine on the knife.
Now we set the sharpening angle by lowering or lifting the bearing using screws.
For the first sharpening, turn the side with the minimum grit number 120 (the coarsest) towards the knife blade.
sharpen until received solid strip on the edge of the blade (0.5...1 mm wide)
We turn the knife over and repeat everything.
We continue the process with sandpaper 320, 600, 1500.
Now you can shave with a knife.
The same procedure for sharpening with sharpening stones. But in this case there are several disadvantages:
1. middle part The bar develops over time and then the sharpening angle “floats”, which is not the case in the first option.
2. Bars with different grain sizes need to be changed, but in the first option, to change the grain size you only need to rotate the edge. The bar is removed by pressing the spring with two fingers.
All knives are now fully sharpened. If some of the knives become dull during use. I only sharpen these 600 or 1500 grit knives with two or three strokes on each side of the knife.
Thank you for your attention!
"Useful homemade products" from Gamir Khamitov.
Every man in the house would benefit from a convenient sharpening machine. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.
There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.
To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.
This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.
Why do knives get dull?
What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. Speaking in simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.
The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.
Sharpening technique
The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. the main task consists of eliminating damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides good location spirit and peace.
The basic rule in this process is compliance with the exactly specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.
What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?
In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.
If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.
An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.
The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.
It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. It might damage him lateral surface or a blade.
There are homemade devices for sharpening knives different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is availability the required material and tool skills.
The operating principle of such a device as manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a fixed under the right angle bar. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.
In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a pair of bots with wings. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.
To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.
It is necessary to mark and cut off the top vertical stand, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is selected twice less than that, with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives It is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.
A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.
Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.
Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.
To make it, a strip of the required length is cut. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.
The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.
There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. IN in this case it is based on an M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.
Covers the thread. A pair of paper clips serve as clamps for the guide stand on the required height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.
How to sharpen jointing knives with your own hands
Every owner who has a plane or jointer, I've probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines are used, or if it is used constantly, it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself machine for sharpening a jointer knife
To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.
Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.
Sharpening machine jointing knives do it yourself consists of:
- faceplates;
- table;
- engine;
- vacuum cleaner;
- casing.
The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees full and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.
It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.
The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Anyone will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.
Main stages of device manufacturing
When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly under it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.
For reliable protection, the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.
A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.
What do you need to know?
Mounting the engine under the base of the faceplate is not a requirement. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.
A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.
Ice screw sharpening
The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.
For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.
Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what professional sharpening was. In most cases, sharpening was performed using hand-made devices.
Homemade ice drill machine: what will you need to make it?
To make a device such as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.
Progress
First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.
After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, which serves as a clamp for the knives being sharpened
Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.
If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.
Sharpening knives is best done on a knife that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.
Disadvantage of the device
The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles cutting chamfer. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case, a universal device will do.
Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill
The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.
To make this device you need to find door canopy with minimal backlash, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).
A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.
It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the arms for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has greater versatility.
How are planer knives sharpened?
Equipment such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen your planer knives yourself. To make sharpening equipment at home you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.
A knife holder can be made from a wooden block. Made through circular saw cuts at 45 degrees, you can sharpen knives with a belt grinder or a large block. If the latter is not available, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.
Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution will be used metal corners, which have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.
The simplest variation of sharpening is homemade device from wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same dimensions. Wooden products must first be treated with sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.
The manufacturing procedure itself will not cause any difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required sharpening angle of the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive workpieces. Then apply sharpening stones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is the cuts: make them according to the markings on both wooden products cuts of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and secure them with bolts.
Advice. To prevent the resulting device from slipping on the surface while servicing the knives, secure it to the bottom rubber gasket– it will give the device the necessary stability.
Massive sharpener on a stand
A more complex variation of the knife - a stand with separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. To make it you will need:
- chipboard sheet;
- a block of wood 8 cm long and 2x4 cm in cross section;
- steel rod M6 or M8;
- plexiglass 6x12 cm;
- magnet with holes for fasteners;
- self-tapping screws, bolts, wing nuts;
- wooden clamps;
- rubber feet;
- saw and drill.
Sharpener construction diagram:
- Cut three blanks from the chipboard sheet: 7x8 cm, 8x30 cm and 12x37 cm.
- On the oblong side of the workpiece 8x30 cm, 6 cm from the edge, make a hole.
- Drill holes for the legs in the corners of the 12x37 cm workpiece.
- Drill two through perpendicular holes in wooden block: the first is 3 cm from the edge, the second is 3 cm from the first. From the edge of the product to the first hole, cut a 1 cm thick recess.
- Make a slot in the center of the plexiglass strip.
- On a workpiece 12x37 cm, at a distance of 4 cm from the edge, secure the workpiece 7x8 cm perpendicularly with two self-tapping screws. Fix the workpiece 8x30 cm on top with self-tapping screws.
- At the highest point of the installed workpiece 8x30 cm, drill a small recess and fix the magnet in it with self-tapping screws. Place plexiglass on the same blank - fasten the products with a bolt through the previously made hole and slot.
- On any edge of the 12x37 cm workpiece, drill a hole for a steel sharpening rod and secure it there with a wing nut.
- Place the block on the rod, securing it with a bolt and nut.
- Using a rod, nuts and two clamps, assemble a knife holder.
- Screw the legs to the finished stand.
How to sharpen a knife correctly?
For quality, it is not enough to build one of the above-mentioned devices - you also need to master the rules manual sharpening, and understand the order of work.
First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Next, using smooth movements alternately “from yourself” and “towards you”, begin to move the blade along the sharpening element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement it should go along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.
Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener and not tear off, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.
Move the blade along the sharpener with one side until it reverse side If a burr does not appear, then turn the knife over and begin sharpening the other side of the blade in the same way. Continue sharpening alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.
How to determine the sharpening angle?
The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required blade angle. It depends on the scope of application of a particular tool and the range of tasks assigned to it:
- Any type of razor – angle 10-15 degrees.
- Fillet knife – 15 degrees.
- Knife for fruits, bread and vegetables – 15-20 degrees.
- Multifunctional tools for slicing food – 20-25 degrees.
- Hunting knives - 25 degrees. Such blades are designed for cutting not only soft products, but also wood, bones, and fabrics.
- Utility knives general purpose– 25-30 degrees.
- Tourist and camping knives – 30-35 degrees.
- Knives for cutting hard materials – 30-50 degrees. The greater the sharpening angle, the worse such a knife cuts food, but the better it copes with wood, trunks, and plastic.
Please note that there are also combination knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.
So, personally assembling a device for sharpening knives is an excellent way out of a situation where there is no desire to buy professional device or regularly contact a professional to service your tools. You have two options for making sharpeners different levels complexity - choose which one you can handle, and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that the sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.
DIY knife sharpener: video
Often, ordinary abrasive stones are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since if the angle for sharpening is incorrect, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.
Rules for sharpening knives
Before you start making homemade device To sharpen knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of specialists. At the first stage it is necessary to determine the angle between working part blades and whetstone. This can be done individually for each model.
The knife should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the block. The angle can be equal to half sharpening. This is due to the fact that during processing, grooves are formed on the surface of the blade. They appear due to exposure to abrasive components. With minimal tool grit, they will be negligible. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.
In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:
- the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
- processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
- To control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of influence can be controlled.
It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when sharpening with your own hands, the “point of reference” should be the bluntest part of the knife.
The grooves formed due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition correct sharpening.
Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives
Main component homemade machine There will be a whetstone for sharpening. This is an abrasive material that, when applied to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.
The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing and reduce the likelihood of defects.
To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of whetstones:
- high grain size. With their help it happens primary processing, the shape of the blade is corrected;
- medium grit. They are designed to remove grooves formed during the first operation;
- whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.
The main task of drawing up a design diagram is correct location bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.
To sharpen ordinary kitchen knives, two types of whetstones will be sufficient - with high and medium grit. In addition to them you will need a touchstone.
A simple version of the machine
The simplest version of the machine design consists of two pairs wooden slats, connected to each other using adjustable screws. A block is attached between these components.
The main condition for the manufacture of this structure is stability. While working, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the beam, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.
Despite the ease of making it yourself, this machine has a number of disadvantages:
- the blade is manually adjusted relative to the stone. At long work it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
- an additional fixation unit will be required. Since the structure must be stable, it must be firmly fixed on the desktop;
- During operation, the ties may loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.
The main advantage of this scheme is its ease of manufacture. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. As additional components you will need a touchstone.
The thickness of the wooden slats may vary. In fact for self-made similar design you can use any available materials.
Manual sharpening machine with whetstone adjustment
For achievement best result It is recommended to take drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.
The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is mounted. A screw stand is installed in a vertical position. A bar with a slot is attached to it. The whetstone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.
Features of operating a machine of this type:
- The sharpening angle is set with high precision. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
- Instead of a block, you can use sandpaper. For this purpose, a base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on the guide rod. Sandpaper glues to the surface of plexiglass;
- It is best to make the supporting base wide. This will make it possible to secure it with clamps on any tabletop.
The main problem with using this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This may affect the speed of work completion if several types of knives are processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.
To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of chipped particles of the whetstone on the blade.
Sharpening machine with adjustable knife position
An alternative option for manufacturing the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is largely similar to that described above, but is much simpler to manufacture.
A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second will be adjustable. By changing the distances between the clamps you can adjust the sharpening angle.
The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.
In addition to the schemes described above, there are a lot of sharpening machines that you can make yourself. When choosing optimal model should be based on the actual availability of available materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.
