Knife handle - interesting handmade design ideas (68 photos). Knife with stacked wood handle


When hunting, a knife is needed to chop branches for installation, cut bread for dinner and, if you're lucky, butcher the hunted animal. That's probably all its functions. The main thing that hunting knife it was comfortable, fit well in the hand, and the shape of the handle did not tire the owner while working. How good a hunting knife is can only be found out in practice.

Any knife, including a hunting knife, includes a blade and a handle. In principle, it is possible to completely independently make a hunting knife that would fully satisfy your needs. But it hardly makes sense to do this, since it can be quite difficult to find steel of suitable quality for making a blade, not to mention it at home.

In addition, there is a completely satisfactory range of high-quality blades on sale. But the handle, being as important a part of the knife as the blade, often does not at all meet the requirements placed on it by both commercial and amateur hunters. But it is quite possible to replace the handle of a knife with a high-quality and suitable blade at home.

Manufacturing solid handle for a hunting knife.

Artistic handles - with cutouts for fingers, a bend in the tail and a guard - are more likely to be of interest to weapon collectors. It is better for a hunter to have a straight handle, without frills or decoration. The dimensions of the knife handle should be such that the knife sits firmly and confidently in the hand. The handle should be 3-3.5 cm longer than the width of the palm.

With the correct grip, the ends of the middle, ring finger and the little finger should not touch the base of the thumb, and the ends of the index and thumb, on the contrary, should slightly overlap each other. But the final decision is made solely taking into account the individual preferences of each hunter.

The handle can be made from any piece of wood, but it is best to take a piece from. Moreover, from certain places in the trunk. First of all, this is a growth at the butt called a caporoot, or brush. It is permeated with dormant buds, so a ring pattern appears on the cross section, like a Karelian birch.

Secondly, a simple burl, a curled growth on the trunk. There are almost never dormant buds in it, but the structure is beautiful, iridescent. Third, inner part trunk, where a large branch extends from the very core. Wood from these places is also good because the layers there are very fine, and the wood itself is dense.

Before processing, the workpiece must be thoroughly dried in the shade. When it is roughly cut and hewn, it can be connected to the blade. The blade should have a continuation in the form of a shank longer than the future handle, and the end of the shank should have a thread for a fastening nut. Firstly, it will be possible to change the handle and, secondly, to avoid cross rivets, which are difficult to install, and do not always hold well, and do not add beauty.

Before processing, the knife handle blank can be boiled in water and then allowed to dry thoroughly. Its color will change (it will become darker), and it will be easier to process. It is better to finish the finishing not by varnishing (the varnish slides in the hand), but by boiling the workpiece in linseed oil.

In a metal container, such as a large tin can or other dishes, you need to pour enough linseed oil so that the workpiece floats freely in it. The jar must be heated in a sand bath. The oil should barely simmer. At this time, air bubbles will intensively escape from the ends of the workpiece. This boiling oil fills the pores of the wood. The procedure should last two to three hours, or even more.

After drying the handle for two to three weeks, you can put it on the knife and, if necessary, process it further. Doing this after boiling the wood in linseed oil is much easier; its structure is revealed, and it itself acquires a deep color and becomes seemingly harder and heavier.

Mounting the handle blank onto the blade shank of a hunting knife.

To place the blank of the future handle on the shank of the blade, it must be drilled through. The drill should be longer than the future handle. This does not require any high-precision machines. The drill is fixed in the chuck of the electric drill, and the drill itself is pressed with a clamp to the workbench or in a horizontal position.

The workpiece must be carefully pushed onto the rotating drill. You will have to drill at least two holes at a slight angle to each other; then the undrilled one must be selected with a long thin chisel. At the front end, instead of a guard, you can put a metal plate and a leather (2-3 mm) gasket. Having placed the handle blank on the shank and firmly secured it with a nut, you should bring it to the desired shape with rasps, coarse, fine and polishing sandpaper.

The typesetting can be made of birch bark or birch bark with layers of leather. Birch bark 2-3 mm thick is boiled in water for a couple of hours until it becomes soft, and then thoroughly dried. Then the sheet is cut into rectangles measuring approximately 3x5 cm. In the center of each, a hole is cut out with a sharp knife or chisel, corresponding to the section of the shank where this rectangle will fit.

So you will not have to cut the holes in advance, but only before putting the piece on the shank. The knife should be clamped vertically in a vice with the shank up. In order not to spoil the blade, you need to insert a piece of thick plywood between it and the jaws of the vice. First you need to put a metal plate on the shank. Then you can pick up the handle, carefully pressing each next piece to the previous one.

We must not forget that the layers in adjacent plates must be perpendicular. You can coat them with waterproof quick-drying glue. The last piece of birch bark must be pressed with a nut through a metal plate of the appropriate shape. The threaded part of the shank should be quite long. The fact is that when you tighten the nut, you squeeze the entire set on the handle, and it shortens a little.

As a result, you may need to unscrew the nut several times, install additional pieces of birch bark, and tighten it again. When the nut is completely screwed in, you can begin finishing. You need to cut off excess birch bark with a very sharp and fine file. Such a handle does not require any varnishes, oils or other finishing materials, just clean it with fine sandpaper.

Based on materials from the book “DIY Fishing Tackle and Hunting Equipment. Manufacturing and repair."
Storozhev Konstantin.

The question is very interesting and that’s what they usually do. There are many methods for making a sheath, depending on which knife. The main thing is that the knife should not become dull, be securely fixed and easily removed. The knife is fixed either by the blade or by the handle. The simplest and most common. Two plates, for example, 2-3 mm thick leather, size larger size The blade is tightened along the edges with rivets or leather cord. Due to the elasticity of the leather, the knife is held. You can use wooden plates with a pick (chisels or milling) and covered with something, and then the knife is attached to the handle. The famous Austrian bayonet knives have plastic case sheath with a latch behind the guard. Depending on what the knife is for, there will be different sheaths. A hunter's knife in the blood of an animal in a tight sheath with fastening by the blade will jam in the sheath in winter and it must be attached to the handle and the handle must be of such a shape that it can be pulled out comfortably .If the knife is for defense or hunting, the requirements are the same. Knives for a shoemaker, carver, which are not carried with you, the main requirement is to maintain sharpness during storage.

One of the most commonly used materials for making inlaid knife handles is birch bark.

There are, of course, fans of plexiglass handles; in Soviet times, “Zonov’s” knives were full of handles made of multi-colored plastic mixed with plexiglass, but such a handle is inconvenient - it slips and is not very grippy.

But the birch bark handle on the knife is free from these shortcomings.


The stacked knife handle is usually made of either birch bark or birch bark with the addition of leather. Pure leather inlaid handles are not practical - they look beautiful in a collection, but are susceptible to rotting and require constant care.

So it’s better to make a homemade knife handle from birch bark. And it works out cheaper - you can collect the birch bark yourself.

How to make a knife handle from birch bark

The collected birch bark, 2-3 mm thick, needs to be boiled in slightly salted water for about 2 hours until soft, and then dried well. The finished sheet must be cut into rectangular pieces, the size of which is 3x5cm.

A hole is made in the center of each rectangle using a sharp knife or chisel. It must coincide in cross-section with a certain place in the shank into which the rectangle will be inserted. Therefore, cutting the hole occurs immediately before installing it on the shank, and not before.

During operation, the knife is pre-clamped in a vice with the shank pointing upward. To prevent damage to the blade, you need to insert pieces of thick plywood between its surface and the vice.

But before that, you need to put a metal plate on the shank. The handle is assembled by carefully connecting all the pieces of birch bark; you can even coat them with quick-drying waterproof glue. It is necessary to remember the perpendicular arrangement of layers in adjacent plates.

The last part of the birch bark is pressed with a nut through a metal plate of the desired shape, while the shank must have a long threaded part. This is due to the fact that when screwing the nut, the entire set on the handle is compressed and at the same time shortened.

Therefore, you have to constantly unscrew the nut, add pieces of birch bark and tighten it again. After the final screwing of the nut, the final finishing of the handle begins, in this case it is necessary to carefully cut off the excess birch bark with a very sharp knife, and then process it finished part with a fine file.

Do not use varnishes, oils or other materials to finish the handle. Instead, it is better to clean it well using fine sandpaper.

A homemade birch bark knife handle will serve you faithfully for a long time. And when the time comes to change it, you can easily do it yourself in a couple of hours.
Watch the video - How to make a knife with a stacked handle for a more accurate understanding of the process.

As you can see, making set handles for knives is quite enough simple procedure. Anyone can make exactly the knife handle they like.

Knife handle horn has been used since ancient times.

Today we will talk about how to make a pen for homemade knife from the horn.

Since the horn is needed not for the extraction of pantocrine, but as ornamental material, then old antlers lying around in garages - a legacy of the USSR - are quite suitable. In those days, antlers hung in almost every apartment.

So, we cut the horn into blanks and start making a homemade horn handle for the knife.


The first step is to mark the future knife handle on the workpiece.

So, let's start making the handle

Now, using a drill, we drill holes in the edges of the future groove.


Using a jigsaw we cut out the inside.

Horn is a very good ornamental material and can be easily processed with hand tools.

Let's try the blank on a homemade knife.


Now you need to process the outer part of the knife handle blank.
This is easy to do with a file.

Trying on a knife handle blank.
All that remains is to repeat the above steps for the remaining workpieces and the knife handle is ready.

IN in this case The inlaid handle of a knife made of horn is attached to the knife using glue; it is for this purpose that a notch is made on the insert part. The notch can be easily made using a grinder or cutting discs Dremel.

Today we’ll talk about how to make a knife handle with your own hands.

A homemade handle may be required not only for those who decide to make a knife with their own hands, but also simply in case the knife handle fails.


The overhead handle is very easy to make. It is enough to grind blanks made of wood or plastic and rivet them using copper or aluminum wire onto the blank of a homemade knife handle. In this case, you can also use epoxy glue to increase the strength of the handle pads.

Watch the video tutorial on how to make a knife handle with your own hands.

See - nothing complicated! If you do not take into account the time required for the varnish to harden, then you can make a knife handle with your own hands in almost one evening.
However, there are nuances here too.

Before applying epoxy glue, the knife blank must be treated with coarse sandpaper or scored with a file to better retain the glue layer.
Knife blanks and handles in places where glue is applied must be degreased with acetone.

In handle blanks, the outer part of the hole for the rivets must be expanded with a thicker drill, then when riveting, the wire will fill these cones and the handle will hold much better.

The biggest advantage of a homemade knife handle is the ability to customize the handle to fit your hand. Manufacturers make them “for the average person,” and your palm may be larger or smaller than the standard one.

In addition, you can make an “anatomical” knife handle, when each finger has its own protrusion.

The wooden handle can not be varnished, but soaked in oil heated to 60 degrees and allowed to lie for a day under straight sun rays. This action must be carried out 4-5 times. The oil will permeate the wood and polymerize under ultraviolet light.

The handle of a knife treated in this way is not afraid of dents and scratches, and it is also not susceptible to rotting from moisture. After all, the entire tree is saturated with polymerized oil!

Please advise how to properly make a leather handle? I don’t want to make a handle out of wood, and I’m afraid I can’t find the right plastic.

I'm going to cut the washers to size, glue them together with epoxy, drill them - and then mount large fragments directly on the shank. Actually, what is the question - what should I use to treat the mounted handle? Will the skin become frayed from the file?

You can process it on a grinding wheel... then with sandpaper on a rubber disc... From the file, it all depends on the “old age” of the leather, if it’s old enough and not very dense, it can become disheveled, dense “new” leather is quite resistant to such loads and processing options... however, it is better to use something higher-speed, the quality of processing will still be better.

Making a birch bark handle for a knife with a Kankaanpaa Saami blade

Knife with blade Kankaanpaa Sami
with birch bark handle

Source materials - Kankaanpaa Saami blade, elk horn of suitable diameter, birch bark.

First, the bolster and butt plate of the handle are made from elk logs. Round pieces with a diameter of 2-3 cm and a thickness of about 1 cm are sawn off from the horn.

Holes are drilled in both round pieces and adjusted with a file to fit the bolster and shank.

The blade is protected before processing masking tape to protect against scratches and epoxy resin sticking.

In addition, when working with birch bark, both the blade and its shank will be in a humid environment, which in the case of a blade made of carbon steel may affect him appearance.

So, the shank is cut to the required length, grooves are applied to it for better retention on the handle.

The bolster (bottom right) and the butt plate of the handle (bottom left) are also ready for further work.

The free space between the butt plate and the bolster will be filled with a birch bark insert. This distance must be measured to calculate the required number of birch bark spacers.

Now we begin to actually make the birch bark handle. In the first step, the birch bark is cleared of the white layer on the front side and the cork layer on the inside.

For this procedure, you can use a wire brush or sharp knife to scrape off unnecessary layers.

Birch bark is cut into spacer squares in the required quantity.

In this case, the required length of the spacer was 8 cm with a birch bark thickness of about 2 mm. A total of 80mm was required: 2mm = 40 squares. Plus 2-3 more pieces in reserve - in case the birch bark bag shrinks.

Subsequently, the birch bark was lowered into a bath of water for 10-20 seconds to impart elasticity, and holes were punched in the supplies for the shank using a semicircular wood cutter and a sharp knife.

Upon completion of the process, the package of spacers is assembled on the shank (with a bolster and butt plate) and compressed using simple device(see photo).

In this handle, the birch bark spacers were “glued together” solely due to moisture, although the design allows the use various adhesives(for example, waterproof PVA).

After a couple of hours of drying on the shank, the bag is carefully removed from the future knife and separately clamped between parallel and smooth surfaces. It is important not to disturb the integrity of the package and the alignment of the holes in the spacers when removing the compressed birch bark from the shank. Periodically it is necessary to tighten the nuts of the pressing device to compensate for shrinkage.

After complete drying, the package is re-fitted onto the shank and, if necessary, new birch bark spacers are added (be sure to moisten them before adding them to the package).

After drying, the bag is put on the shank along with the bolster and all parts are fixed to the shank with epoxy resin.

The structure is again placed under the press, this time until the epoxy is completely polymerized. After this, the handle is roughly contoured using regular knife. At this stage, using sandpaper or a file is not advisable; it is easier to work with a knife on soft birch bark.

On final stage the handle is sanded and (if desired) the blade is etched in Sprite (this is not an advertisement!!!).

Before etching, scale is removed from the blade with fine sandpaper and the blade itself is degreased with acetone. After a night of the blade being in acidic environment a beautiful gray finish is guaranteed. Important: it is necessary to get rid of gas bubbles in the drink, otherwise you can get a coating with spots where the bubbles settle. You can shake the bottle for a long time, or you can simply heat the drink and wait for the bubbles to come out.

● Solders. The choice of solder is made depending on the metals or alloys being connected, the soldering method, temperature limitations, the size of the parts, the required mechanical strength and corrosion resistance, etc. Most widely...

Organic glass- thermoplastic plastic - widely used and available material. It is produced transparent or colored in the mass, it is well processed, glued, and painted. Organic glass is polished by hand using a clean and dry cloth...

It will be even easier to make a handle for a knife, which will be incredibly aesthetically pleasing in appearance - as well as durable - from bone or from the horns of various animals. Most often, such crafts are made from elk or deer antlers, and if you manage to get saiga antlers, you can consider yourself lucky, because such material already has beautiful irregularities and is slightly curved.

Those who want to make a handle for a knife from just such “raw materials” should first remove the core from the latter, then boil it for a couple of hours. After this, the horn must be sharpened with a file from the back and sides of the future handle to remove irregularities. You can secure the knife blade in it using wooden and metal plates.

One of the simplest (even for novice craftsmen) ways to make a handle for a knife is the typesetting method. “Zonov” handles assembled in this way were once popular - usually from pieces of colored plexiglass or plastic. When creating products from such materials, you should keep in mind: they are inconvenient to use due to their slipperiness.

It is better to make a handle for a knife in a similar way from birch bark or very thin wood of different shades.

This material is cut into pieces to make a handle for a knife. the right size, in each of them a hole is made for the shaft of the blade - and everything is strung on the latter interspersed with metal plates, and then sharpened well.

To make a knife handle aesthetically pleasing, it is not necessary to create such a product from scratch. It is possible to decorate an existing handle - for example, wrap it in a piece of leather suitable sizes or strong colored thread or very thin twine.

It will be great if you can make a handle for a knife from wood or bone with carvings or more complex patterns made using the popular pyrography technique. IN modern conditions To use it, you will need a special device - a pyrograph, which gives the material of the handle the desired shape.

Making a knife with your own hands at home

There are many different types of knives on the edged weapons market, but there are still people who want to make their own knife at home. And rightly so, because it will be exclusively their product, original and unlike others.

This article will help a beginner understand the business of making knives in the absence of special conditions and will tell you how to choose the right materials for making knives and general outline will tell you what to do with them, so don’t judge too harshly :)


To make a knife at home from start to finish you will need:

Blade or material for its manufacture;
- materials for the handle;
- additional parts for making a pommel, guard, bolster - or ready-made ones from the store;
- fasteners (depending on the manufacturing strategy - epoxy, screws, etc.)

Blade for making a knife

First, let's consider the question of what to do with the blade. Firstly, making it yourself at home will be extremely problematic - if you do not have the opportunity to forge a blade yourself, so the best solution would be to buy a ready-made blade, for example, a Lauri 125 blade made of carbon steel.

Where to buy a blade for making a knife?

Sources selling prepared for homemade there are quite a lot of knife blades: you can buy them from private craftsmen on the same guns.ru or at bladed weapons exhibitions, buy blades in other online stores; Or you can order an industrial blade from the manufacturer, including on Chinese auction sites such as ebay or aliexpress.

There are very high-quality and inexpensive catalogs of blades from Finnish (and Scandinavian in general) manufacturers, I can recommend them.
If you really have difficulty finding a suitable blade, just take a sheet of metal, for example, a sawn-off piece of a spring, give it a shape and work with it.

Of course, the purchased blade should be modified. To do this, you need to take a file or even a circle and rough water stones(if your product is very “raw” and you still need to remove the triggers) and sharpen the blade until the desired type and shape, and then use sandpaper to smooth out any irregularities.

The easiest way to check the quality of a product is this: wipe the finished blade and breathe on it. Perspiration will come off from a high-quality blade without any unevenness, and it will lie there without breaks. In this case, it is better to carry out such an experiment several times and from different sides.

What steel to make a knife from - questions for other articles, you can read the materials on our website, for example an article.

DIY knife handle

Next, let's look at the future handle of your knife. It is best and easiest to take wood for it, since in the future the wooden handle of a self-made knife will look nice, and your hand will not freeze. Absolutely any type of tree is suitable - especially since you are just learning.

The simplest handle for a knife with your own hands is made from old legs of Soviet tables, chairs, sofas or armchairs, because previously furniture was made to perfection. Using a hacksaw, we cut off the piece to the required length, then roughly cut out the shape of the handle that we would like to see on the finished product. It is also necessary to make a recess in the handle for the shank of your blade - for example, drill and process with needle files. Whether this hole is through or not through depends on the finished design of the knife.

Ideally, you would also need to draw a rough drawing of a knife that is made at home. You already have a blade for this and the approximate dimensions and outlines of the handle. And according to the drawn layout it will be easier to make a finished knife, finishing it after assembly with sandpaper.

If you already more or less know how to make a knife with your own hands, you can buy blocks of stabilized wood (you will get very beautiful and strong handles), or try to make a handle from birch bark or pressed leather; You can make a wicker handle - there are a lot of options. You will move to the next level of “knife building”, so to speak :)

Important details for making a knife at home

The guard is a part specially designed to protect the hand of the knife owner. You can make it from metal or wood, or buy it ready-made in specialized stores. You can make a knife without a guard or a combat rest at all - such a knife is not a bladed weapon.
Bolster - serves both to decorate the knife and to relieve the handle from excessive load. You can make it from wood or metal - for example, make a bolster from a coin or a soldering iron tip.
The pommel of the handle is opposite to the blade and performs functions such as: changing the balance of the finished knife, an aesthetic function (for beauty). Also, the pommel often plays the role of a nut that is screwed onto the shank (if you have a through shank). The pommel of a knife handle is made from various materials - but it is better to stick to a single style.

Knife assembly

Having examined all the details of the future knife, putting everything together, a little preparing and processing the constituent ingredients of this “recipe”, you can turn directly to the assembly of the knife itself. To do this you will need a few more simple things: sandpaper for finishing handle and polishing of the finished product, two types of binary glue (epoxy and “cold welding”), a hammer or mallet, paper tape (to seal - to protect the blade and other polished metal parts of the assembled knife from scratches when sanding the handle and giving the homemade knife a completed shape ).

First you need to dilute the epoxy and coat the leather gasket with it, which we then apply to the part of the blade that will be inside the wood - the tang. Next is cut “ cold welding"and is quickly placed at the bottom of the hole drilled in the handle under the tail of the blade, where it is, in fact, inserted.

Gently driving the blade inside with a hammer or mallet will give the knife its final look. It would be ideal to hold the assembled knife with a clamp for a while while the epoxy hardens. In the end, a knife made with your own hands at home will only need to be polished and decorated at your discretion.

As more simple option you can make an overhead handle - from two plates (wooden, for example), which are attached to the shank of the blade on the right and left. This type of handle is usually attached with screws, in addition to epoxy, but usually looks simpler.

When you give perfect shape handle and make sure that your homemade knife is assembled reliably - you can start making it :)

Knife handle no less important element than the blade itself, since the convenience and safety of use depends on how the knife lies in the hand. The handle also has decorative functions, especially if the knife is a souvenir. Among some northern peoples, the hilt is valued even more than the blade itself. It is made of soft steel that can be sharpened on any stone. And when the blade is ground down, the blade part is thrown away, and a new blade is inserted into the familiar and comfortable handle. Let's look at some of the materials used in the manufacture of knife handles.

The simplest handle can be formed by wrapping a cord around the tail of the knife. This type of handle can often be seen on throwing or tactical knives.

Many knife manufacturers use for making handles traditional materials, such as wood, horn or bone. Wood is used both in mass production and in the manufacture of one-piece items by knifemakers. IN different regions They use different types of wood that are most accessible, work well, or have a beautiful texture.

For example, walnut, maple, oak, apple, pear, ash, and cherry are used to make handles. Although, at present, blanks are available from various exotic varieties trees that grow in tropical countries. True, many rare wood species are more difficult to process because they have high hardness.

Designer knives with wooden handles are often decorated with carvings or inlaid with various inserts. Brass, silver or gold wire is used for notching. It is rolled into strips and then driven into grooves, which are made in the form of an ornament, so soft, dense wood, such as walnut, is suitable for these purposes. Dense wood is well suited for carving - maple, dogwood, apple tree, boxwood, juniper, pear. Among tropical species, lemon, red or rosewood are used for these purposes.


IN middle lane In Russia, birch bark is often used for handles. Handles are made from it, that is, birch bark plates are placed on the shank of a knife, pressed and processed. Sometimes, on the contrary, they first prepare blanks from compressed birch bark, then fix them on the shank and process them.

After processing the birch bark, the handle gets a beautiful and slightly corrugated surface. One of the advantages of a birch bark handle is that it turns out completely natural, since it is made without the use of impregnations or varnishes. The birch bark handle does not slip, even if it is wet or stained with scales or blood. It is warm and pleasant to the touch.


From natural materials, wild animal horns are also used to make handles. Basically, the horn is used in hunting knives, or souvenir versions. Red deer antler makes the most beautiful handles. The material is quite durable and can be processed well. Elk horn is also well processed, but it is heavier and acquires grey colour after polishing. The antler of American white-tailed deer and reindeer is used less frequently due to its more porous structure.


In knife catalogs you can often see Nepalese kukri knives. Some knives have buffalo horn handles.

Synthetic materials are widely used in the manufacture of knives. Previously, plexiglass, plastic, and textolite were often used. There are a lot of modern synthetic materials used in knifemaking, for example Fiberglass, G-10, Delrin, Grivory, Zytel, Kraton, Carbon, Micarta, Lexan, Nylon, Elastron and some others.

In descriptions of the characteristics of imported knives, you can often see Zytel material. This material is made on the basis of nylon, but is more rigid and has better wear resistance. These material qualities depend on the type and quantity of resins added. The material is difficult to scratch and has high impact strength and heat resistance. Typically, Zytel handles are knurled for better grip on the palm.

Another material from which the handles are made is Grivory. This is a modern fiberglass material, very resistant to thermal and ultraviolet influences. Grivory material is more technologically advanced and even stronger than Zytel.

Currently, wide use When making knives, I received micarta. It is moisture resistant, durable and has a good appearance. The material is well processed. Micarta is a material consisting of a mixture of resins that is used to glue together various electrical insulating materials. Used as layers for gluing different kinds paper and fabric. The texture and color of the material depends on the structure and color of the components, as well as the resins used to glue the filler. Therefore, by changing the color of the components, a very interesting texture and color composition of micarta is obtained. Sometimes micarta imitates some natural materials, for example a tree.


There are other synthetics that imitate natural materials, for example Elforin. It serves as a substitute for ivory. The material is well cut, processed and polished, and is also resistant to acids and oils, and even more so to ordinary moisture.

Another frequently used material is Kraton. It is also used as independent material for knife handles, and as an insert into a handle made of another material. Kraton is a synthetic rubber substitute, that is, Andh oprene rubber. The material is more wear-resistant than rubber. The kraton handle does not slip in the hand, and the surface of the handle is usually grooved, so it sits firmly in the palm.

G-10 is also a popular material for knife handles. . This is fiberglass, which is made on the basis of fiberglass and epoxy binders. G-10 non-flammable moisture resistant material, which has dielectric properties. As a result of the addition of dyes, it is possible to obtain products different colors. Among the disadvantages of the G-10 material, we can note the deterioration strength characteristics at low temperatures.


Many manufacturers, especially Russian ones, make knives with elastron handles. Elastron G rubber plastic has the strength of vulcanized rubber, and it remains flexible over a wide temperature range - from minus 65°C to +150°C.


Write, Anya: faith is a reason for desire.

Forgive? Certainly! Endlessly.

Trumpet, control yourself.

Whoever saves the country does not violate the law.

You don’t poke, but poke.

Auto-da-fe knowledge: combustion from anger.

Popularity and the mummy's lack of prudence.

Vova: injustice is a cry of blood.

In any case, if you become indignant, you will become a slave.

We, brothers, are taken over through our shortcomings.

Look what's in the shadows.

Look closely at the face: you will see both the letters and the thought.

Pain was not known from morality.

Those who have morals are right.

Take heed of customs with decency.

Nature, it is said, is not violated with impunity.

Evil transformation? Calm surroundings.

Without reacting, slowly perceive the external.

The men of steel became compassionate.

The steel of ethics will come, as of old.

Reality? only individuality.

The picture of the past is clear at the moment of transition from sleep.

Where to begin? Printing is based on numbers.

Knowledge swirls around - it is passed on to the worthy.

God forgives women and cleanses them with regulations.

The husband says goodbye, cleanses himself with creativity.

Eight, look: the point of death is inside.

Check: deuce - duality, to death.

7, 9, 12 - identity of divine numbers.

A person does not wither: for him the stick is one and zero is the carrot.

Clearly, intelligence exceeds morality.

A community haystack is the key to survival.

Foreigner? A pensioner, for example.

The old man who is not used to the new.

Our grandson is a potentiator of many sciences.

To be lucky, get down to business cheerfully.

Don't tremble, show your eyes for understanding.

The arrival of the ruler, since a squad is formed.

Nomenklatura in hand, if there is a blood guarantee.

And in the horde there is a conflict of strength and reason in the struggle.

An official according to the law, a culprit outside the law.

Faith reveals, reason guides.

Believe: happiness is the reward and purpose of life.

Evil gives birth to itself and conquers.

Without showing it, listen to the insult,

The father-in-law rejoices at what he has.

Resentment does not torment - losers are taught.

How do you feel about yourself? Everyone thinks about you now.

Enter the love lesson.

Attention: impact on the hour by character, thoughts and desires.

Once in a hundred we get a refund if there is debauchery.

Life is a wound if we don’t understand the plan.

You can’t escape from the clutches if the katsap grabs you.

Evil spirit? It's a destruction program, friend.

Man and modern, savior of the universe!

The reason for everything is solar energy men.

Ode to the laws of the family.

Justice is mafia writing and fornication.

Like the Incas, settle disputes in duels.

Sometimes a wife takes it in with her heart.

Not happy? He created his own hell.

You need to know: we are the creators of our own hell.

Fates are shells of thoughts and actions.

Calm your mind and pain with your will.

What is in a person is the connection between spirit and matter.

Man is the daughter of good and evil, period.

And just for those who like to visit the site in search of interesting and useful things. Sometimes it happens that what the manufacturer offers us may not always be suitable everyday use, so you often have to use your imagination and make everything yourself, and even if you do it yourself, you will be confident in your production. This article also has the meaning of remaking a finished one, so we smoothly move on to assembly.

As usual, any homemade product requires material and something that we want to change, in this case it will be a knife. In order to assemble a knife handle, the author explains that necessary, This:
*Birch bark.
*The knife itself is without a handle.
*Clamping vice on studs with wings.
*A grinder with a medium grain grinding wheel.
*Glue.

When all the assembly materials are ready, you can begin assembly.
First of all, the author took pieces of wood 5-6mm thick on both sides and carved holes in them that fit into the steel handle of the knife.


Then, according to the size of these pieces of wood, it is necessary to cut out a sufficient number of birch bark squares and approximately measure whether they are enough for the length of the handle.

When required amount cut - move on to the next step.
We make a hole in each square of birch bark, it’s up to you to decide how to make it, for best hole You can use a wood drill that is slightly larger in diameter than the sleeve on the knife. We repeat this process with all the other elements of our future pen.



When all the birch bark is placed on the handles, we lightly press them together, and then soak each with glue and let it sit for a couple of tens of minutes.




When the glue has set slightly, you can use a vice with pins to press the entire structure, having first removed it from the knife.


For further processing, you need to let the glue dry completely and when you are sure that the glue has dried, start sanding and shaping. To make grinding more convenient, you need to put our pressed birch bark back on the knife handle and equip the grinder grinding wheel start processing.

Attention! All work with an angle grinder must be carried out with extreme caution and safety precautions must be observed. To begin, use a grinder to give the handle a square shape.



Then we grind it to an oval shape that fits comfortably in the hand.





Ultimately, the author gives the handle a shiny look by polishing.



On this homemade handle ready for the knife, you can repeat it without special effort, and its production does not require high skills. Thank you all for reading this article, and special thanks to the author inw.

Wood is not only universal and popular construction material. In everyday life, wooden objects are used everywhere and constantly, especially since wood is a very easy material to process. Do-it-yourself wooden knife handle – not like that at all difficult task as it seems at first glance.

Types of handles

Wooden handle for folding or regular kitchen model should be first and foremost comfortable. Actually, this is the attractiveness of making it yourself: you can make a handle of any configuration, any size suitable for your hand, and impregnate it with any composition.


When making your own, 2 types of wooden handles are most often used:

  • mounted - a cavity is formed at the end of the product into which a blade with a narrow shank is fixed. The handle is a single unit and is very resistant to damage. A folding knife cannot be made this way;
  • overhead – suitable for blades with a wide shank. In this case, the handle consists of two parts that overlap the blade. The handle is heavier, which helps balance the wide blade. For a kitchen knife, for example, this is important. The folding model always refers to the invoice type. The photo shows a set for the folding version.


Materials and tools

To make a kitchen knife with a wooden handle, you need to select the right wood, process, impregnate, embed parts and secure in the chosen method. For this you will need such materials.


  • Wood - as a rule, choose wood with an original texture and pattern so that the product is attractive, like in the picture. In this case, preference is given to hard and durable species - oak, walnut, maple. It is more difficult to cut a handle from such wood, but the result will last a long time. In any case, the wood must be selected dry - no more than 12-15% humidity, and must be treated with antiseptics.
  • The blade itself is purchased ready-made. For manufacturing, you need to know exactly the dimensions of the shank and the weight of the blade.
  • Fasteners - for kitchen knives with a mounted handle, epoxy resin is used. To attach the attachment handle, you needed a brass or copper rod of the required diameter.
  • Impregnation – the product must be impregnated suitable composition. Most often, linseed oil or special dish varnish is used. It is necessary to impregnate the handle not only to give it a beautiful shine: the composition protects the wood from moisture. What to soak wooden handle knife, depends on the type of product.
  • Tools - as a rule, the set is quite ordinary: cutters, plane, hacksaw. However, to speed up the process, you can also resort to electric models.


How to make a handle

To make a handle, you need some experience working with wood.


At the same time, this work is quite suitable for practice for a beginner.


  1. The wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic before work.
  2. Using a hacksaw or jigsaw, cut out a workpiece of a suitable shape from wood. If this is your first try, it is better to do without finger grooves, but if you already have experience, you can choose the most optimal configuration. At the first stage, the workpiece has only an approximate shape, then its shape is brought to perfection using a cutter and a hacksaw. How to process a wooden knife handle depends on the skill and desire of the craftsman.
  3. The finished workpiece is processed with sandpaper until perfectly smooth.
  4. A groove for the blade is drilled at the end of the product. The depth depends on the weight of the blade. The shank should fit easily onto the handle. The photo shows the formation of the groove.
  5. The product is then processed, e.g. linseed oil. Oil is poured into a small saucepan, placed in a water bath, and the workpiece is immersed in the impregnation and held until air bubbles stop appearing.
  6. The wooden handle is left to dry.
  7. Prepare epoxy resin according to the instructions. Mix it with sawdust, and fill the cavity of the handle with resin.
  8. A blade is inserted into the cavity, ensuring the correct position, and left to dry for a day. In order not to stain the product, but epoxy resin It is wiped off with great difficulty, the blade is wrapped with tape, as in the picture.


The attachment model for a folding knife is made slightly differently. Here the tool kit will include rivets and a vice.


  1. The rough-shaped workpiece is held in a vice and cut into 2 parts. Both parts are then finished to perfection using cutters and sandpaper.
  2. The product is assembled: the blade is placed between the handle parts. Mark the attachment points and drill holes through the workpiece. In this way, perfect alignment of the holes is achieved.
  3. Then a rivet is made from a rod with a diameter that matches the diameter of the hole.
  4. The blanks are treated with oil according to the technology described above.
  5. Epoxy resin is applied to inner side parts, shank and rivets. Assemble the product and wrap it tightly with tape.
  6. In a day the handle should be ready. If necessary, it is cleaned of excess epoxy resin.

In the video, making a handle with your own hands is covered in more detail.



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