Dimensions of sewer pipe outlets for plumbing connections. Plumbing work

Plumbing measures in the home can be divided into three types:

• Works on current repairs, for example, fixing a leaking faucet or clearing a clogged shower drain;
• Work to replace pipes or broken equipment;
• Installation new plumbing and pipeline communications.

Routine plumbing repairs are not regulated by any regulations or standards. However, measures to replace pipes or install new plumbing equipment will necessarily entail the need for coordination with the relevant organizations that will require strict compliance rules for installing plumbing fixtures in accordance with current standards.

The motivation of bureaucrats is simple and clear:

• Transfer utility networks and the installation of plumbing fixtures in a new location is called redevelopment, which may entail changes in the configuration and size of the room, requiring changes to the apartment’s registration certificate;
• Relocating plumbing fixtures is also a remodel.

Naturally, it’s easier to do everything according to the letter of the law, then the registration technical documentation will not cause problems for your home.

• SNiP 2.08.01−89* “Residential buildings”;
• SNiP 2.04.05−91* “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”;
• SNiP 3.05.01−85 “Internal sanitary systems”;
• SNiP 2.04.01−85* Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings.

The modern market of plumbing equipment is represented by a wide range of bathtubs, showers, sinks and sinks, toilets and bidets, valves and mixers. Despite all the variety of devices in terms of functionality and methods of controlling their operation, the methods of connecting household sanitary equipment with residential pipeline communications are completely unified and “submit” to the requirements of GOSTs and SNiPs.

It is recommended to install household plumbing after installation engineering communications before finishing premises. Water connections for installing appliances must end with water sockets, which are a mandatory attribute of a home’s water supply system. Water outlets are specially rigidly fixed to protect the water supply system from vibration effects that occur during the operation of connected household plumbing fixtures.

The distance between the axes of the fittings of sockets provided for hot and cold water, must be made strictly 15 cm.

Instead of sockets, it is allowed to use elbows, tees, couplings or manifolds for connecting mixers or other types of taps.

Another general requirement for the installation of plumbing fixtures is to ensure free access to the equipment, for which SNiP stipulates the size of the free space around each type of fixture (bathtub, washbasin, etc.).

The height of placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated in clause 3.11 and clause 3.15 of SNiP 3.05.01−85 “Internal sanitary systems”, and pipeline fittings devices are installed in accordance with clause 10.5 of SNiP 2.04.01−85* “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings.”

Requirements for installing plumbing equipment in the bathroom

Until recently, the only plumbing fixture placed in the bathroom was a small one. cast iron bath. Now shower cabins and hydroboxes are installed in the bathroom, and they are connected to the bathroom communications automatic washing machines, winding heated towel rails are placed on the bathroom walls. However, the SNiP standards adopted in the last century have not changed:

• The free space in front of the bathtub or shower stall is at least 70 cm (SNiP 2.08.01−89 “Residential buildings”);
• The distance between the sink and the bath or shower must be at least 30 cm;
• The space in front of the washbasin must be 70 cm wide and 110 cm long;
• Shower faucets are mounted at a height of 120 cm;
• The shower head is most convenient at a height of 210−225 cm;
• Height installed bath— 60 cm to the top of the side;
• The height of the sink or sink is 85 cm to the top of the side.

The picture shows optimal sizes for installing a washbasin in the bathroom.

Requirements for installing plumbing equipment in a bathroom

By analogy with the bathroom, in front of the toilet and bidet there must be free space at least 60 cm and 25 cm on each side. The standard distance between the toilet and the bidet is at least 25 cm.

The height of the toilet without a lid is 38−41 cm from the floor with a length dimension of 60−65 cm.

The variety of sanitary products offered, produced by manufacturers according to their own internal standards, makes compliance with the given dimensions irrelevant. However, no one has canceled the requirements of the standards, so the approval of the redevelopment will be guided exclusively by the current standards.

To connect the sink to the sewer, it is not necessary to seek help from specialists, since the work can be done with your own hands, following simple instructions and recommendations. The help of a plumber may be required in situations where there is practically no experience in carrying out similar work.

As a rule, the connection of plumbing fixtures should be made on last stage repair. The rules for installing sinks in the bathroom or sinks in the kitchen are no different, so let’s pay attention to the general points.

Connecting the sink to the sewer

At what height should the sink be installed?

An ordinary plumbing fixture in the form of a sink without any auxiliary accessories should be fixed at a height of about 85 cm. At a certain level it is necessary to carry out horizontal line, corresponding to the level of the highest limit of the plumbing fixture.

If a support is provided or if the sink is in a cabinet, there is no need to determine the installation height, since it depends on the level of the support or the height of the cabinet.

Features of marking fixation points on the wall

Before installing the fasteners, you need to mark the points on the wall according to a special pattern. There are holes in the sink cavity for fasteners, which must coincide with the markings. The sink is applied to the wall, aligning its upper border with the line that was previously marked on the wall. In this way, the location of future mounting recesses in the wall is determined. It is better to carry out work processes together, as it is much more convenient. During the marking process, one worker will hold the sink at the level of the mark, and the second will fix from below the places where it is planned to fasten.

Installation is greatly simplified if there is a support leg or cabinet. IN in this case The sink will be placed on a support, after which the fixation points will be marked.

Installation of fasteners

Installation fastening elements should be done this way:

• holes in the wall must be made according to clear markings;
• dowels are driven into them;
• special pins are screwed in for fastening.

When connecting a sink in the bathroom and kitchen, the use of dowels and special pins is implied. You may also need nuts and plastic inserts supplied with the plumbing fixture.

When screwing in the studs, you need to monitor the depth of entry. The depth at which you can hang the sink and screw the nut is considered sufficient. In other words, the stud should protrude from the wall to the thickness of the device plus one and a half centimeters for the nut.

Installation of the mixer and connection to the water supply

When performing work in the bathroom or kitchen, the faucet can also be installed on a sink attached to the wall, but it is important to perform this process in a certain sequence and before completely fixing the sink. This is explained by the fact that all connection and fastening work is carried out from below.

The mixer should be installed in the following sequence:

• a fixing pin is screwed into it; depending on the type, there may be two of them;
• for the purpose of supplying cold and hot water hoses are installed and tightened using an open-end wrench. It is important to correctly calculate the force so that after installing the mixer on the plumbing fixture you do not have to tighten it again;
• based on the sink connection diagram, you will need to install water supply hoses that will be supplied to the holes in the sink;
• With reverse side A rubber seal and a pressure washer are put on the mounting studs. With the help of such elements, the fastening nut is easily fixed;
• Use a wrench to tighten the fastening nuts.

Much attention needs to be paid correct location the faucet spout, while the device itself must be installed at an even angle in relation to the wall to which the sink is attached.

Features of installing a sink on the wall

After connecting the sink to the water supply, they proceed to the process of fixing it, and the work will be carried out in the following sequence:

• the sink with mixer is put on the mounting studs, which were previously screwed into the wall;
• if necessary, plastic inserts should be inserted;
• the mounting nuts are tightened.

If you plan to install a sink with a stand or cabinet, then you need to start with installing the supporting elements.

How to connect water hoses to the plumbing system?

First you need to install a special gasket between the tap and the sealing nut, but the nut does not need to be tightened too much. Due to the use of a rubber gasket, a good seal is ensured, and it is possible to tighten the nut after testing with the inclusion of water.

If a leak occurs, then you need to tighten the nut at the connection more tightly.

How to connect a sink to the sewer system?

After completing the work on connecting the sink to the water supply, you can connect the washbasin to the sewer, and connect other plumbing fixtures in the same way.

First you need to install a siphon. It is important to pay attention to the presence of a special hole in the plumbing fixture, which is used to protect against water overflow. If there is this hole, you need to choose the siphon that is equipped with additional drainage.

Most often you can find a bottle-type siphon on sale or in the form English letter S. If you need to install a sink in the kitchen, then it is more advisable to use the second version of the product, since in the first case the likelihood of clogging the siphon increases.

To produce correct connection washing to the sewer system, you need to perform a certain sequence of actions:

• first, you need to insert a siphon outlet into the sink, which is then securely fixed;
• Next, you need to screw a pipe to the siphon; it is better to choose a rigid product with an angle or a corrugated pipe;
• the screwed pipe should be inserted into the sewer outlet. If the diameter of this outlet is larger than that of the pipe coming from the siphon, then it is more advisable to use an adapter, which is called a sealing collar. Only after these steps can the pipes be fastened;
• Upon completion of work, connections must be checked for leaks.

How to determine a poor siphon connection?

If the siphon connection is poor, you may feel bad smell from the sink. It may also be observed high humidity pipe going to the siphon, and the appearance of puddles under the sink.

When connecting the sink to the sewer system, experts do not recommend over-tightening the connections with a wrench, as this may damage the rubber sealing gasket.

If during the process of checking the tightness between the pipe and rubber cuff If a stream of water flows, the second element must be removed and the connection area dried. Next, the dried cuff needs to be treated with sealant and put in place.

If you need to connect two sinks at once, you need to get a siphon equipped with two pipes for drainage.

Special Notes

Before connecting the sink to the sewer, you need to take into account some notes, namely:

• when connecting the kitchen sink to the sewer, there is no need to overtighten connecting elements key. If you do not take this feature into account, the sealing seal may be damaged. rubber gasket, then it will need to be changed and tightened again;
• When checking the tightness of the connection in the area between the pipe and the cuff, a trickle of water may leak out. If this happens, then you need to remove the cuff and dry the surface of the connection area. Next, the dry cuff is lubricated with sealant and the elements are reconnected;
• if you plan to connect two sinks to the sewer system at once, it is recommended to buy a special siphon equipped with two outlets for sewer pipes.

Carrying out simple rules During the installation process, you can quickly and easily connect the sink to the sewer with your own hands without the help of a plumber. It is also easy to connect the water supply to the plumbing fixture.

Errors made during the installation process that can cause pipes to become clogged

• Pipes from sinks, sinks and other plumbing fixtures must be mounted on a connection at a right angle of 90 degrees. If two devices are installed and drainage is ensured towards each other, a blockage may occur in the tee of the pipe that goes directly to fan pipe. In this case, it makes no sense to clean the pipes from the side of the sink or washbasin using a spiral or hydrodynamically using a hose. If it concerns two sinks connected next to each other, then it is clear that from one sink the hose will pass to the second sink, but it will not be able to turn in the direction of the main drain pipe. One way or another, it will be quite difficult to clean the sewer.
• Another important mistake is that the drain pipe coming from the washbasin or sink is too high in the bathroom. As a result, the process of draining wastewater into the sewer pipe becomes difficult. Many people decide to move pipes and plumbing fixtures, which include bathtubs, sinks and sinks, to another location that is not provided for in the project. If pipes are changed, the main problem may be that the outlet to the device will be rigidly tied to the outlet of the pipe in the riser, and the situation is very difficult to change. When connecting sinks and sinks, everything should be fine, since there is a certain height reserve, taking into account the fact that plumbing fixtures are suspended at a height of approximately 90 cm. But despite this, many inexperienced installers may not take into account or think through such a detail. It is easier to make a mistake with the height when connecting a bathtub and shower. Often the drain is located above the floor surface. It's quite difficult to lift a heavy bathtub by yourself, so simple solution is the outlet of the drain pipe above the outlet of the siphon. Thus, the pipe is often laid without the required slope, which can also cause sewer clogging.
• You can often encounter a problem in which pipes that are supposed to be attached to the wall from the outside are not fixed correctly. Products may sag, and counterslopes and other practically irreparable cases often form. Of course, this does not in any way affect the correct functioning sewer system, but this feature can cause blockages, which will require frequent cleaning of the pipes.

During the renovation process, a lot of questions arise. I will highlight the most common ones that arise when renovating bathrooms.

What is the slope of the sewer pipe?
– for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm – at least 2 cm/meter
– for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm – at least 3 cm/meter

At what height is the sewage system installed...
– for a wall-mounted toilet 160-190 mm (depending on the manufacturer and model), local fitting will give the most correct answer
– for a wall-hung toilet 220-240 mm from the floor
– for a shower cabin with a 60 mm tray
– for washbasin 500-550 mm
– for bathtub 100-150 mm
- For kitchen sink 300-400 mm
– for washing and dishwasher 500-650 mm

If, for technical reasons, the sewer outlets for the bathroom (shower stall, toilet) are made higher, then under the bathtub (shower stall, toilet) you can make a podium to the required height. Perhaps this situation will upset someone, but on the other hand, this podium can play a decorative character.

An example of a podium for a shower stall.

At what height is cold and hot water discharged...
– for a wall-mounted toilet 400-600 mm (depending on the water supply to the tank - bottom, side or rear), local fitting will give the most correct answer
– for a shower cabin with a tray 1200 mm from the bottom of the tray, and shower heads – 2100-2250 mm (from the bottom of the shower head to the bottom of the tray)
– for a bath 750-800 mm from the floor
– for washbasin 550-650 mm
– for kitchen sink 500-600 mm
– for washing machine and dishwasher 500-750 mm

Distance between water outlets...
– for shower cabin and bathtub 150 mm from the central axes
– for washbasin and kitchen sink 100 mm (not so rigidly tied, as they are connected with flexible hoses)

The bathtub is mounted at a height of 600 mm, the washbasin is 850-900 mm.
These sizes can be changed and depend on the height of family members. And they drag along with them the adjustment of other sizes (output of water outlets)

And do not forget that the floor level in toilets and bathrooms should be 15 - 20 mm below the floor level in adjacent rooms, or the rooms should be separated by a threshold. And also do not forget about waterproofing in the bathroom and toilet.

It is advisable to purchase all the plumbing before the installation of plumbing begins. communications. This will simplify the plumber’s task and reduce the risk of mistakes.

A major renovation in a bathroom should always be accompanied by a complete replacement of all communications, since each new plumbing fixture has its own dimensions and its own connection diagram.

Pipes do not last forever and have their own service life, so they are usually completely replaced with each repair.

What types of pipes are there in the bathroom?

Pipes of the water supply system that supply hot and cold water to water collection points, that is, those places where the water consumer is connected. In the bathroom such points can be:

• Bathroom faucet.
• Shower mixer.
• Washbasin mixer.
• Washing machine.

1. Drainage system pipes or sewer pipes. All consumers of the above water have their own drainage system, to which sewer pipes of a certain diameter are connected.

Stages of bathroom renovation and location of pipes

Piping in the bathroom is part of overhaul in this room, which is always divided into stages:

Dismantling of old equipment and cladding. At this stage, all plumbing fixtures are removed, tiles are knocked off the walls and sometimes from the floor, and all surfaces of the walls, ceiling and floor are completely cleaned of old coatings.

Preparing surfaces for finishing. At this stage, if necessary, the walls are plastered, a frame is built for suspended ceiling, which is most preferable in the bathroom. The floor covering is being updated.

The choice of plumbing fixtures for the bathroom, taking into account its area and dimensions of the fixtures.

Marking and routing of pipes.

Clean finish.

Installation of plumbing.

This is the sequence that should be followed when renovating a bathroom. The only point about which controversy continues is the need to plaster the walls before laying the pipes.

Let us present compelling arguments for the correctness of this particular sequence.

Critical plumbing fixtures such as faucets require very precise installation

Any owner will be offended when an expensive faucet is installed crookedly.

Accuracy of installation is achieved by the fact that water sockets must be very precisely aligned both horizontally and vertically, and be flush with finishing coat walls - ceramic tiles.

This is much easier to achieve when the surface of the walls is leveled before laying the tiles. The need for plaster disappears only when there is already an ideal flat wall, which happens on objects under construction or during the construction of walls made of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards.

After completing two of the above stages, you can proceed to selecting and purchasing the necessary plumbing fixtures. Moreover, the purchase is strongly recommended. Why?

The fact is that any plumbing fixture has its own dimensions and its own connection diagram, which can vary greatly. In order to install pipes in the bathroom, you need to know exactly the location of water outlets and sewer connections.

When all the equipment is already in the owner’s apartment, and there is no way back for re-selection (something the fair half of humanity can do), you can safely mark it out.

When marking, you should follow the following rules:

The height of the bathroom faucet should be between 200-230 mm above its top edge, which is approximately 800-830 mm from the finished floor level.

The distance between cold and hot water outlets is strictly 150 mm. Hot water supply on the left, cold on the right(this applies to all plumbing fixtures).

The entrance of the 50 mm sewer pipe should be located on the side of the bathtub drain at a height of no more than 70 mm from the floor level, to the axis of the pipe.

If the bathtub has a hydromassage or has a built-in mixer, then the location of the water outlets is described in the product data sheet.

When installing a washbasin in a bathroom, the 50 mm sewer inlet should be located at a level of 520-550mm from the floor level on the axis of the washbasin. Water outlets are placed at the same level or 50 mm higher, the distance between them is 80-150 mm.

Inlet 40-50 mm sewer pipe to drain water from washing machine must be located at a height of no less than 600 mm and no more than 100 mm.

It is very convenient to use a special siphon for draining hidden installation. The location of the water supply outlet to the machine is not regulated, but it is usually located at the same height for convenience.

Pipe selection

After marking, it’s time to start choosing the pipes that will be used in the wiring. What should you be guided by? Which pipes to choose?

Currently used for water supply systems the following types pipes:

After the choice of pipes has been made, you can begin choosing the wiring system.

Selecting the wiring type

Marking, scoring and laying

After choosing the type of wiring, you can begin marking the pipeline routes. For polypropylene and copper pipes all connections occur at right angles.

And for metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene pipes, the grooves can be laid with curves at the corners.

The grooves can be hollowed out with a hammer drill, cut with a wall chaser or a grinder with a diamond disc for stone. This is the dirtiest and dustiest stage of the work.

When laying pipes, it should be taken into account that hot pipe It is customary to lay the cold one on top and the cold one on the bottom.

The size of the grooves should be such that the pipes can easily fit into the groove with thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene placed on them, which, after walling, will compensate for the thermal expansion of the pipes.

In the space under the bathroom, it is not at all necessary to trench the wall for laying pipes; this place is already closed. To fasten pipes in grooves, you can use standard clips, but they take up a lot of space, so dowels and copper wire are often used.

In order to accurately align the water sockets of the bathtub mixer for all types of pipes, there are special mounting strips, where the pipe outlets are located at a distance of 150 mm. It is recommended to use them.

When laying horizontal sections sewer pipes a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter of length should be observed

When turning 90 degrees, it is better to use two 45-degree corners, with the exception of the exit to plumbing fixtures.

When assembling sewer pipes, do not forget about the cuffs, which should be lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.

Hydraulic testing of pipes

After all water and sewer pipes have been laid and all requirements for the placement of water outlets have been met, it is imperative to test the pipeline or, as experts call it, pressure testing.

Pressure testing must take place under high blood pressure at 10 atmospheres using special press. To do this, all water outlets, except the farthest one, are closed with plugs (they will later protect the pipes during finishing), and a ball valve is screwed into the farthest water outlet.

The system is filled with water, then shut off and a special crimping press is connected to the tap. The tap opens and a pressure of 10 atmospheres is injected into the pipeline using a press (all pressure testing machines are equipped with pressure gauges).

If the pressure does not drop within several hours, then the system can be considered sealed and can be safely walled up. If not, then you should find the leak, fix the problem and test again.

If you don’t have a pressure tester, you can rent one or order this service from plumbers.

CONCLUSION

After laying the pipes and carrying out hydraulic tests, you can begin finishing– tiling the bathroom with ceramic tiles. The installation of plumbing fixtures should be carried out at the final stage.

Correctly done piping in the bathroom when used modern pipes and technology will serve its owner for decades.

There is a proposal to add ONLY PARAMETERS and DIMENSIONS for plumbing installation to this topic. equipment and devices, as well as height, distances, dimensions and technical. cards for terminals of water sockets and ducts for various devices.

Article on the topic "The first steps towards future comfort"

Bath and shower. To ensure that the use of plumbing does not cause inconvenience, it is necessary to ensure free access to all equipment, providing a certain free space around each item. This space in front of the bath or shower must be at least 70 cm (so that after water procedures it was convenient to go out and use a towel). The bathtub is usually placed on one side close to the wall, although, if space allows and there is an option for connecting the necessary communications, it can even be located in the center of the room. To save space, it is recommended to use a corner shower stall. Shower faucets are mounted at a height of 1.2 m, and shower nets - 2.1-2.25 m (from the bottom of the net to the bottom of the tray). It is better to install towel rails so that they can be easily reached from the bath or shower. If the room has a window, then the bathtub should be located at least 1.3 m below the level of the window sill, and it is advisable to tiled the window sill itself and ensure condensate drainage. In this case, the mirror is placed to the right of the window or under it.

Toilet and bidet. SNiP 2.08.01-89* “Residential buildings” defines the minimum dimensions of a bathroom - at least 0.8 m in width and 1.2 m in length. There should be at least 60 cm of free space in front of the toilet and bidet, and on both sides midline toilet bowl is at least 40 cm. If these plumbing fixtures are located nearby, then the distance between them can be somewhat reduced (since they are unlikely to be used at the same time). The average size toilet bowl length - 60-65 cm. Flush cisterns in “English” toilet models it is customary to install them at a height of 1.8 m (to the bottom of the tank).

Wash basin. The space in front of the washbasin should be 70 cm wide and 110 cm long (so that two people can comfortably stand side by side in front of it). If there are two washbasins in the bathroom, then the distance between them (along the axis of the mixer) should be at least 90 cm. However, you should be aware that double models with a width of more than 1.2 m are inconvenient for simultaneous use. It is better to install two separate washbasins - with a towel holder between them and a side table, or with a table between the washbasins and towel holders on the sides. Optimal height installation of a water bowl from the floor level - 80 cm (for sinks with an individual mixer) and 85 cm (if there is a common mixer with a long spout for a washbasin and bathtub).

For convenience, a mirror, shelf or cabinet above the sink is mounted at a height of 135 cm from the floor. In this case, the most suitable height of the mirror itself is 45 cm. However, these figures are average; the installation location of cabinets, mirrors and other accessories should be chosen taking into account the height of all family members using the bathroom.

Foreign standards. Standards for the location of sanitary equipment in all European countries similar enough. For example, the German standard DIN 18017 recommends installing a washbasin at a height of 80-82 cm from the finished floor. Our SNiP 3.05.01-85 “Internal sanitary systems” determines the height of the washbasin in residential buildings in a similar way. American standards developed by the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) differ slightly from those adopted in Europe and are measured in inches (1″ is equal to 25.4 mm). Thus, washbasins in the USA are prescribed to be installed at a height of 30-32″, a mirror - at a maximum height of 40″ (from the floor to the bottom edge). The width of the bathroom from the central axis of the toilet to the wall should be 18″, the minimum space in front of the bathtub should be at least 30″, and in front of the shower – 36″. The mounting height of the shower mixer is 38-48″.

Standards for installing plumbing equipment in Asian countries, in turn, operate with much lower numbers, which is quite consistent with the anthropometric parameters of the population.

Source: IVD magazine