Carefully wrapping roses for the winter is not 100% protection. Unfortunately, rose seedlings die in the spring. In order to understand why this happens, you need to answer the question of how and when to open roses in the spring. Novice gardeners often have no idea why healthy seedling after opening, it dies before it has time to grow.
If you remove the cover too early, there is a risk of death of the buds that appeared ahead of time. If you are late with opening, you can bring the plant to rotting. After winter, you need to wait until spring's changeable weather stabilizes. As an approximate indicator, soil thawing to a depth of about 50 centimeters can be considered. A stable above-zero temperature is quite suitable; slight frosts are acceptable at night.
Experienced gardeners know that frost is not so much dangerous for roses as allowing them to become damp. Unfortunately, even on time open roses are sometimes susceptible to this disease. When growing roses, it is important not to miss the moment of discovery, but this is not the only key factor; you need to understand exactly how this is done.
Spring has come, it's time to open the roses
Rules for opening and caring for spring roses
The first sign of spring awakening of roses is the swelling of buds under a warm, dry covering. At the same time, the soil still remains frozen and root system while he's sleeping. Immediately after these signs appear, take the following measures:
- when the top of the frame first appears, throw some snow on it, this will protect the rose from temperature changes;
- as soon as the weather has become stable, remove the snow and make grooves to drain melt water, do not forget to ventilate the plant for half an hour;
- after about a week, repeat the ventilation; in case of warm weather, leave small holes on the sides for air circulation;
- after another week, open the shelter from the north or east side;
- after the next three days, remove the cover completely;
- immediately take care of the prevention of diseases and pests, darken the rose to protect the rose from sunburn;
- after about two weeks, the shading is removed and reprocessing copper-containing preparations, after which they are fed with organic fertilizers;
Little secrets of experienced gardeners
The cover should be removed in the evening or in cloudy weather, this will help avoid exposure sun rays.
Under no circumstances should the shelter be removed immediately; it must be done gradually. The adaptation of roses can be affected by a nighttime drop in temperature, as well as strong wind or bright rays of the sun. Overwintered shoots still have weak immunity, so it takes a little time to get used to life in the open ground.
If the weather forecast promises frosts, and you have already removed the winter shelter, try to protect the plant with spunbond, agrofibre or lutrasil.
Features of removing cover for different types roses
Optimal conditions for the development of rose varieties can vary significantly. There are general rules:
- Standard types of roses, begin to lift onto supports for weaving only when temperature regime will fully recover. This is done in order to have time to cover the bush, in case unfavorable conditions. You cannot miss the beginning of shoot growth. This moment is very important; at this time it is necessary to tie up the bushes. As a result, there is a risk of damage.
- Hybrid tea roses, It is recommended to cover with film immediately after removing the winter frame. This will speed up the growth of the plant, increase its flowering and protect against temperature changes.
Spring pruning of roses
Around the same time, it is necessary to prune; it is important to do it before the buds fully open. There are also some nuances here:
- pruning floribunda and tea varieties involves shortening the shoots by approximately a third of the length, pruning is done annually;
- ground-blooded varieties should be pruned no more than once every five years, the shoot is pruned by 15 centimeters;
- when pruning remontant shrubs, not only damaged shoots are removed, but also those growing inward, preventing excessive density;
- climbing roses are shortened to areas with healthy tissue, damaged and old shoots are removed.
Potential problems after opening
Even if you correctly determined the time when you can open roses, this does not guarantee that some problems will arise:
- Damaged areas - frost holes - appear on the stem from frozen water that has entered into a small damage to the stem. In the case of a large lesion, the shoot is eliminated. In other cases, they try to cure with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. You can take advantage of the antiseptic properties of plantain by wrapping its leaf on the damaged area.
- Sometimes, after untimely opening, mold may develop; preparations containing copper or iron cope well with this problem.
- Often, reddened areas appear on the shoot, which darken and increase in size over time. These are symptoms of a burn. A shoot with such damage is best removed.
Please note that tea roses have the greatest resistance to various damages. Other varieties have weaker immunity.
The sun is getting brighter, and the tits are shading merrily. coltsfoot blooms on the thawed hills.
Snowdrops bloomed in the first thawed patches. in a word, spring has come - a busy time for gardeners.
As agreed, let's talk about how and when to open our favorite roses
It's time, my friend, it's time
If you spent the whole winter winter apartments, then now is the time to visit the site, check the roses, which, like prisoners in a dungeon, are waiting for their release. My fellow gardeners often ask me, when should I open them? I don’t have a ready answer to this; it all depends on the heavenly office. It's no secret that our springs have become protracted; April is often colder than March. We need to look at the weather. Even if the snow has melted, there is a high risk of return frosts.
In addition, the earth must thaw completely, then the roots of the plants will begin to work. Otherwise, roses may die from the drying effects of wind and sunburn.
Some gardeners, to speed up the thawing process, spill soil around the roses. hot water. Of course, you can run around the area with a teapot if you have a dozen roses, but if you have one and a half hundred, like me, then this is not possible. Therefore, I rely on the forces of nature and the inevitability of the onset of heat.
One thing I know for sure is that you shouldn’t rush to open roses. Maybe open the ends of the shelters to ventilate them. If your roses have wintered under lutrasil, which allows light and air to pass through, they can remain there even until the May holidays. It’s another matter if they start to bloom leaves in such a shelter (in the warmth and in the sun) - then you need to open it urgently! This means that the ground has finally thawed and the plant roots have begun to work. In the meantime, the ground is frozen, it’s not worth opening. Plants pampered after winter may turn black from the sun and wind.
The main principle is gradualism. You can first open, as already mentioned, the ends, then remove one layer of cover, providing better air access. And only a few days later, choosing cloudy weather (this is important!), remove the cover completely. But do not remove the fabric completely; it may still be needed if suddenly the icy breath of the north breaks through into our latitudes again.
Next, the roses need to be untied so that they come to their senses a little, “straighten their backs and shoulders.” Then carry out an inspection - check the condition of your pets, assess the degree of damage and the results of wintering. Branches that have become overgrown and affected by infectious burns must be cut out immediately. This should be done without regret. Experience has shown that damaged shoots will be of no use, even if they look relatively alive. They will develop with difficulty, are unlikely to bloom, and will only draw strength from the rose. And do not try, as is sometimes advised in manuals, to treat them with brilliant green, some ointments, applying a plantain leaf, etc. All this, as they say, is wasted effort.
By ridding the plant of diseased shoots, you make room for new growth. After all, a rose, like no other shrub (and this is a shrub!), has an amazing regenerative ability. This means that it can produce new shoots, each time rejuvenating and being reborn, like a phoenix bird. For the same reason, you should not uproot those specimens that do not show signs of life after wintering. Wait until mid-June. There have been cases in my practice when, inconsolable from an untimely loss, I was rewarded for my patience. The roses that had died were reborn, delighting me with young growth.
The art of pruning roses in spring
Now a little about spring pruning and its timing. I have found that it is much more effective to prune roses at the stage when their leaves begin to bloom. In this case, the strong buds are clearly visible, and it is on them that you need to cut, cutting off everything on top. You need to cut at an angle of 45° to the outer bud. A huge amount of literature has been published on the topic of pruning roses. But each time the approach must be individual, depending on the group to which this or that rose belongs, its age, health and condition.
A gardener pruning roses must first of all have sharp pruning shears and a firm hand. A well-sharpened tool will not chew the stems, and the cut will remain clean. And the hand must be firm, because, without flinching, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary things. You shouldn’t lament over every branch, naively believing that they all mean something to the plant. The rose produces a lot of thin and unproductive shoots, that is, those that will never bloom. But at the same time they take away extra strength from the bush. Therefore, I am guided by the “pencil rule”, that is, I cut out absolutely all branches, especially at the bottom of the bush, which are thinner than a pencil.
General rules for spring pruning
Spring pruning varies greatly between groups of roses.
Hybrid teas and floribundas have already been pruned for cover in the fall, so only spend time on them sanitary pruning. Park roses are not pruned at all, just like ground cover roses. U climbing ramblers that bloom once a summer, remove only the frozen tops. They are pruned in the summer after flowering, removing the oldest shoots per ring, leaving only 5 - 7 relatively young branches.
It is recommended to shorten the so-called semi-climbing climbers by 1/3 to stimulate the growth of new young shoots and more abundant flowering. Don’t try to re-educate them - it must be admitted that you will never get a lush, spreading bush from a climber.
Radical pruning harms them; they will come to their senses until mid-summer, sending out new shoots and being late in flowering. If you wish abundant flowering, try bending them horizontally.
It will not be possible to do this with some, since many varieties of this group have rather hard, inflexible stems. It is better to try to make a kind of “standard rose” from them: having removed all the excess from below, leave only a clean trunk, crowned with a lush flowering cap. Those shoots that bend at least somehow are best wrapped around a support - arches, obelisks, columns. In this case, they will send out a lot of additional branches, each of which will bloom!
As for the “English women”, it is better not to expose young two- to three-year-old specimens heavy pruning, this way they will bloom faster and will not waste energy on forming new growth. But the bushes are more mature age can be cut by 1/3 or even half. It is recommended to do this at least in order to stimulate the growth of new, so-called basal, shoots - the most valuable ones that determine the skeleton of the bush.
Proper pruning of roses, carried out strictly from year to year, will allow you to create a harmonious and beautiful bush, resembling a bowl in shape, where the branches do not compete with each other for the sun's rays, and the flowers are located along the periphery of the crown.
Safety precautions
Pruning roses is a traumatic event. No matter how hard you try, you will get scratched. And the wounds received will have to be healed until mid-June.
Therefore, you need special equipment - clothes made of dense, tear-resistant material (roses cling tightly, you can’t get out!) and special gloves, preferably made of thick suede.
We can easily make similar ones by sewing a bell cut from tarpaulin or other dense fabric to ordinary suede gloves.
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Roses react very sensitively to spring warming, and with the arrival of warm March temperatures, sunny days The period of natural dormancy for roses ends. When the roses are in shelters, the ground is still frozen and the roots are not working, but the buds are already awakening and beginning to swell. Rose growers must be very careful at this time and make timely decisions when removing winter shelters, especially if the roses are in air-dry shelters.
IN last years nature brings us many surprises - these are snowless winters and sharp changes temperatures (either thaw or severe frosts), which affects all plants, especially roses. I repeat once again: if the roses are securely covered, they are not afraid of frost.
Roses are often dampened rather than frozen. And this happens precisely in spring period when we remove cover at the wrong time.
I cover my roses using the air-dry method. They are well covered with dry sand or a mixture of garden soil and sand. Their vaccination site is securely covered.
In March, under the influence of sunlight, the tops of the shelters may become bare, and snow may slide off the ends of the shelters. During this period, I specially throw snow on the tops and ends of the shelters. I carry out this procedure with climbing, ground cover, standard and miniature roses.
At the end of March - beginning of April, when the snow begins to melt, I remove it from the shelters and make drainage grooves so that melt water do not stagnate in places where roses are planted, and thereby save them from damping off. As it gets warmer, I open the ends, ventilate the roses well, then close them again, leaving them at the top small hole for ventilation. If the roses have been hilled up, covered with spruce branches or sawdust, it is necessary to loosen the top caked layer to provide air access to the roses.
For climbing, standard, groundcover and miniature roses, you should raise the edges of the insulation and make vents to provide ventilation to the rose bushes.
It is very important to choose a day to remove covers. If roses are opened early, spring frosts can damage the buds that have begun to grow. Delayed removal of coverings can lead to damping off of roses. The signal is the thawing of the soil. When warm weather sets in with slight night frosts and the soil in the shelter thaws to a depth of 15-20 cm, you can begin to remove the shelters and insulation.
I remove the covers step by step. I do this on a cloudy, windless day or in the evening to avoid sunburn of the bark of overwintered shoots and drying them out by the wind after a long stay in a humid environment without access to air. First I open the ends, the next day the northern or eastern sides of the air-dry shelter, and only then completely remove the shelter, shading the roses with spruce branches or paper.
Roses covered only with spruce branches, sawdust or boxes must be opened as the soil thaws. I carry out cosmetic pruning of open roses: I remove and burn dry, broken and frozen branches, as well as leaves remaining on the ground. After the ground has completely thawed, I unplant the bushes.
For grafted roses, carefully, so as not to damage the bark of the shoots, I free the grafting site (neck) from the soil, wipe it with a cloth, then rinse thoroughly with a brush or soft brush with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or bright pink a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate). I carefully examine the roots below the grafting site and remove any wild growth from the ring, if any appears. Upon careful examination, you can find several kidneys located close to each other. I remove some of the buds, leaving one, more developed one.
Very often there are frost holes (cracks) on the shoots, which appear as a result of the freezing of water that gets into cracks and scratches in the bark. If the frost holes are large and located close to the grafting site, then I remove such affected shoots into a ring. If they are small, they need to be treated - rinse the crack with a brush with one of the above solutions, coat it with varnish, then apply a plantain leaf to this place and seal it with a strip of medical plaster. Otherwise, such frost holes turn into foci of infectious infection by spores of various fungal diseases. Contribute to the spread of spores high humidity in shelters that were not removed in time. Sometimes shoots of roses after late removal of coverings are covered with mold, especially if the roses went into winter without treatment iron sulfate or copper-soap preparations. I remove the forest by washing the shoots with one of the above solutions.
More often than others, climbing and ground cover roses, pressed to the ground and covered with insulating materials, damp out, especially if they were not ventilated in time and the removal of the coverings was late. Due to excess moisture in such roses, shoots are often affected by infectious burns. Therefore, after removing the shelters, it is necessary to inspect all shoots very carefully.
The affected shoots should be cut into rings if the infectious burn is located close to the ground, or cut back to healthy tissue to avoid the spread of infection. Unremoved affected shoots dry out and die. In mildly affected cases, I clean the affected area with a sharp garden knife down to healthy tissue, lubricate it with tetracycline eye ointment or a paste of crushed garlic cloves, apply a washed plantain leaf and seal the area with a strip of medical plaster.
After the above operations, you can begin pruning roses, following all the rules in accordance with the variety’s belonging to a particular group.
Based on materials from the book “Roses” / Teorina A.I. – M.: ZAO “Fiton+”, 20
Helps roses in the garden survive winter successfully shelter, which is usually held in mid-autumn. And in the spring the time comes, when to remove it. Opening roses should be done very carefully, in several stages, since not only frosts are terrible for these gentle creatures, but also the bright spring sun.
Spring is a time of discovery
In printed sources and calendars gardening work they write that it’s time for roses in spring start opening already in March. In the first month of spring, it is recommended to remove covers gradually, mainly in warm but cloudy weather (or in the evening). In April, coverings are completely removed not only from roses, but also heat-loving shrubs and lianas.
In practice (we learn this from videos on YouTube), it turns out that it is better to remove covers from roses in April, and in the middle or at the end of the month. In the first ten days of April, the ground is still quite frozen. Amateur gardeners determine the time when it is time to open roses like this:
- The temperature remains consistently above zero.
- If you stick a shovel into the ground and it goes in like butter, it’s time.
Gardeners advise not to rush into completely removing covers after winter: let better than roses They'll take a nap a little longer before they get sunburnt.
In 2018...
Let's look into Moon calendar? “Astrological calendar for summer residents for 2018” advises:
- Ventilate shelters of roses and grapes on March 13-14.
- Remove cover from roses and heat-loving plants March 18 – 19, 22 – 23 (in warm weather) and April 7 – 8, 14 – 15, 25 – 26.
Opening roses in several stages
You need to gradually accustom roses to the warm spring air and sun. It is best to do this on cloudy, windless days or in the evening to protect against sunburn.
- In the first half of March Snow is removed from winter shelters and drainage grooves are made. It is important that melt water does not stagnate in the rose garden.
- Late March - April To open roses that have woken up after winter, you need to start from the ends - ventilate the rose garden.
- After a day, you can open the northern or eastern sides of the shelter.
- Then the cover is removed completely, leaving a little spruce branches on the bushes (it is needed to shade the roses from the sun's rays, which can be very hot in the spring).
Attention! Flower growers often complain: they opened their roses in the spring, and the bush was healthy. But the next morning it turned black. This is about sunburn. Don't rush to shoot winter shelters entirely. Cover the bushes with spruce branches to create a light shade (spunbond is no longer needed).
After completely removing the covers
Having completely removed the winter shelter, gardeners carefully examine the plants. You need to remove dry leaves and all plant debris from the soil so that the roots can “breathe.” It is very important to carry out cosmetic and sanitary pruning - some of the shoots may be damaged by frost.
Dead branches are cut out completely. Damaged shoots are cut down to the healthy part so that at least 1 cm remains above the bud. The sections are smeared with garden varnish.
After the final thawing of the soil, the bushes are unearthed, and climbing and standard roses lifted and secured on supports.
The climate in Russia is quite harsh, so we need to cover the roses in the winter and open the roses in the spring. Both the first and second need to be done on time. The time when to open roses after wintering depends on the growing region; you need to be guided by the weather.
With the onset of warm days, rake covering materials from the roses, especially peat, which will delay the thawing of the soil. When the opening of roses is delayed, so-called physiological drought is possible, when high temperatures the buds are starting to grow, but the roots in the frozen soil are not yet able to supply water to the green part of the plant.
Most often, the weather when opening roses after winter in the Moscow region occurs in April, and in a very warm spring - at the end of March.
Caring for roses after removing the cover in spring
You need to remove the cover from roses carefully and step by step. Roses that come out green after winter may turn black and die within 2-3 days. After removing the covering materials, be sure to shade the roses with spruce branches, otherwise burns of the stems, accustomed to a humid air environment, are inevitable.
After about 10 days, remove the spruce branches. But don’t rush to lose your roses. Do this a week or two after spring pruning when the buds start to grow.
In April, remove winter coverings from rose occulants - seedlings grafted onto rose hips by budding in the previous year, and also from last year's rooted rose cuttings. Roses need to be opened in stages. First, shade the open plants with spruce branches for 2 weeks, and then gradually accustom them to the sun and open air.
Unwrap the occulants, remove the binding and use a sharp pruning shears to cut off the rose hips above the budding site, 1 cm above the grafted bud. After pruning, hill up the entire plants again. If the grafted eyes have not taken root, that is, a green living bud is not visible, budding can be done again in the spring.
If the graft (cutting with a bud of the rose variety you have chosen) and the rootstock (rose hip) above the root collar are the same size, use the butt copulation method. If the diameter of the rootstock is larger than the diameter of the cutting, use split grafting. Vaccinate before the buds open. Spruce up the grafting site. If the weather is dry, water the rose hips.
Last year's rooted rose cuttings are usually left in greenhouses for the winter. For cuttings, the period of adaptation to the sun and air after opening is at least a month, so plant them in the ground no earlier than May.
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