Projects and drawings of an octagonal gazebo. How to make a gazebo out of wood: instructions with photos Projects for octagonal gazebos

Surely, the owners of country houses have more than once planned to equip their plot so that it would not only have an original landscape, a summer kitchen, but also have a place where they could comfortably have lunch in the fresh air with their family or have dinner with invited friends.

The octagonal gazebo has good capacity.

A good solution to this issue would be an octagonal gazebo, which you can make yourself.

It will fit perfectly into any room, and its roof will protect it from precipitation.

In addition, this design has good capacity: it can accommodate almost any garden furniture and is suitable for both a large and a small family. At first glance, it may seem that this structure is very complex and it will not be possible to make it with your own hands, but in fact this is not the case. If you have drawings and approach construction seriously, having prepared a set of tools and building materials, then such a gazebo will benefit the dacha owner for many years.

Tools and materials

Necessary tools and building materials for building an octagonal gazebo:

Ready-made trellises may be needed when building a gazebo.

  • blueprints;
  • twine;
  • pegs;
  • shovel;
  • hammer;
  • boards for formwork;
  • level;
  • pencil;
  • bit;
  • chisel;
  • drill;
  • hacksaw;
  • cement;
  • sand;
  • fittings;
  • crushed stone;
  • roofing felt;
  • galvanized 1x 2.5 m;
  • wooden beam 100×100 mm;
  • smooth planed boards;
  • paving stones;
  • ready-made trellises or slats for their manufacture;
  • rafter board 50×150 mm;
  • antiseptic.

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Step-by-step process for making an octagonal gazebo

Octagonal gazebo: a - general view; b - top view; 1 - upper frame made of timber; 2 - racks; 3 - spire; 4 - rafters.

Of course, before you start building an octagonal gazebo with your own hands, you need to not only decide on its location, but also make accurate drawings, with the help of which the work process will happen much faster.

In addition, they will help to make this building for a summer residence of the correct shape, without any defects. If you don’t have the skills to compile them, then by typing the desired phrase into a search engine, you can find ready-made information on the Internet.

So, the drawings are available, the optimal location for the gazebo has been chosen. What are the next steps? Let's look at everything using a specific example.

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Methods for creating an octagonal figure and making a foundation for a gazebo

First you need to make a base for the gazebo. There should be no difficulties with it, and it can be done with your own hands. Since the gazebo is considered a lightweight structure, it is enough to lay a shallowly buried strip foundation. To do this, in the selected area, using a tape measure, pegs and a cord, a square measuring 3 by 3 m is marked. Then it is divided into 8 parts and, using the same cords and a building level, the corners are cut so that a regular octagon is obtained.

An octagon can also be drawn using a circle. To do this, exactly in the middle where this structure will be located, a post (reinforcement, pipe or beam) is firmly driven in and then a rope is tied to its base, which does not have the property of stretching. A peg is attached to its end and after that a circle is drawn using such a homemade compass. Then this figure, again, is divided into 8 equal segments and the points where the arcs of the circle intersect and the diagonals that it divided are connected by straight lines. When dividing a circle or square, it is imperative to take into account that one of its segments will serve as the entrance to the gazebo.

Focusing on the stretched string, a trench is dug in the marked places, the depth of which should be 40 cm, and the width - about 15 cm. Next, formwork from boards 12 cm wide must be installed in the dug trench. They should be fastened together at the corners with self-tapping screws. It must be taken into account that the top of the boards must be in the same horizontal plane. After this, a sand cushion is poured into the trench, compacted, reinforcing material is laid and then filled with concrete mortar with the addition of crushed stone. At the same stage of work, in each of the 8 corners, it is necessary to install and concrete anchors into the foundation, which can be made with your own hands from reinforcement scraps. They should rise above the foundation to a height equal to the future walls with a margin of 15-20 cm, since it is on them that the vertical posts will be attached.

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Construction of an octagonal gazebo

The base of the gazebo is installed on a leveled surface.

First, it should be noted that it consists of several stages, since in addition to the foundation, other parts are included in its structure. The construction of the remaining elements of this structure can begin only after the foundation has dried thoroughly. This usually takes a week. Since it will be used outdoors, it must have a waterproofing layer to eliminate the negative impact of the external environment. You can use roofing material as it, which must be laid along the entire perimeter of the base.

Next, on all edges of the base, pieces of timber are laid on top of each other of such length that they protrude 2-3 cm at their intersection. After this, along the upper bars in their width on the lower blanks, lines are marked with a pencil and sections are cut along them with a hacksaw. Then, using a chisel and chisel, grooves are made. In the same way, cuttings are made on the upper bars. It should be taken into account that all grooves made must have the same depth, which will help the workpieces assemble strictly into a horizontal structure.

After this, all protruding excess parts of the bars are cut down so that an even and neat corner of the octagon is formed. All pieces are fastened together with nails. In this way, crown by crown, the walls of the gazebo are erected to the required height. In projects it is usually indicated at half human height, since it is at this level that it is convenient to place window sills. They are made from smoothly planed boards with a section of 50 by 150 mm. They are attached to the wall with galvanized nails.

Next you need to install the vertical posts. To do this, holes are made on 8 wooden blocks with a cross-section of 100 by 100 mm and a height of 170 cm at the lower ends and placed on previously made anchors. Then the vertical pillars at the upper ends are connected to each other by beams of the appropriate size strictly horizontally. In addition, in order for the vertical posts to hold well and the entire structure to have strong stability, the presence of rafters is necessary. If you don’t do them, you won’t be able to lay the roof either.

To make them, you will need to prepare pieces of timber of the same length. After this, grooves are made on them and on the racks for joining these elements and secured with self-tapping screws. Then you need to connect their upper ends to each other using a small octagon, which can be made from pieces of timber with a cross-section of 100 by 100 mm, having previously positioned it exactly in the center of the gazebo. When erecting rafters, it is necessary to control the verticality of the racks.

The roof can be covered with any roofing material. For example, shingle boards that match the design of this gazebo would be an excellent option. They are laid from top to bottom, leaving a minimum gap between them. The sector gaps are closed with ridge elements, which are made using a bar with a cross-section of 50 by 50 mm. The top of the roof is covered with a cone-shaped cap made of galvanized iron.

Built-in benches will add comfort to the gazebo.

Next, the gazebo should be refined. This can be done using trellises. They take the form of a lattice, which is made by nailing slats crosswise to form a pattern of squares or diamonds. In addition, trellises can serve as trellises, which, if planted around the perimeter of the gazebo, will add romance to it. To make them, you will need many slats with a cross section of 10 by 25 mm. In order to decorate this structure with such a decorative lattice, it is necessary to make a frame from a bar with a cross-section of 25 by 25 mm, then secure it to the racks and nail the slats to it with galvanized nails, in accordance with the desired pattern.

Wooden structures that are located outdoors should be treated with paints and varnishes intended for outdoor use. They protect wood from the negative effects of the external environment. Small wooden elements can be cleaned with DIY sandpaper, but for larger surfaces it is better to use a sander. All wooden parts must be coated with an antiseptic before assembly.

At the last stage, the floor is made with your own hands. The most practical, durable and reliable option for this would be paving slabs or paving stones. Of course, you can make wooden floors, but they will quickly become unusable. In addition, such floors must be periodically painted, which will entail additional financial and labor costs.

In their configuration and design, gazebos can be no less varied than houses. An 8-sided gazebo is structurally considered one of the most complex options, but it makes it possible to accommodate quite a lot of people in a relatively compact building area.

In this article we will tell you what these difficulties are, consider the order of work and possible design options. For those who prefer to do everything themselves, the video in this article will help: “How to build an 8-sided gazebo yourself.”

If we talk about the materials from which an octagonal gazebo can be built with your own hands, then believe me that the number of angles does not play any role here. As in any other case, it can be brick with blocks, wood (see), and profile or forged metal, glazed stained-glass windows made of metal-plastic.

So:

  • The degree of capitalization of the building also varies. This may well be a stone structure on a strip foundation or, for example, a prefabricated version from the manufacturer, installed on a pre-arranged podium.

  • In the latter case, installation work is usually carried out by specialists from the company from which the kit was purchased. Well, if you are thinking about how to build an 8-sided gazebo yourself, you will have to delve into all the intricacies of the process.

First, decide on the dimensions of the building, for which you will need a drawing. If you can, make it yourself or download a ready-made version. But when marking, you just need to follow the given dimensions exactly.

Drawing a regular octagon

Drawing a regular octagon is not as easy as it seems at first glance. In order for the geometry of the structure to be correct, you need to make the markings correctly, and for this you will have to remember the geometry. We hope that this instruction will help you cope with the task.

  • We think it would be useful to remind you that at the time marking begins, the construction site must be prepared. It is necessary not only to remove vegetation, but also to remove the fertile layer of soil - otherwise it will be inconvenient to carry out marking.
  • The drawing that we gave as an example shows the standard dimensions according to which 8-sided gazebos are most often built. You can also take these dimensions as a basis - we will use them in our story. So, let's focus on the drawing.

  • The distance between two opposite sides is 4m, and the distance between the corners is 1.65m. As usual, when drawing a polyhedron you cannot do without a circle, but first we will draw a rectangle with the indicated dimensions (4.0 * 1.65 m). This way we will already have the four corners of our octahedron.
  • Now you need to determine the center of the rectangle, for which each side of the figure is divided in half by an axis. The center of intersection of the axes will be the center of the circle that we need to draw. The radius of the circle will be equal to the distance from the center to the corner of the rectangle.

  • Then it’s simpler: put the distance from the center of the circle to the center of the short side of the rectangle on a perpendicular axis on one side and the other. Draw two lines through these points, parallel to the long side of the first rectangle. In those places where they intersect with the circle, there will be four more corners of the octahedron, and by connecting all the corners, we get the outline of the future building.

A few words about how to draw. You will have to use an improvised compass - you can make it from two stakes and a piece of twine. When the first rectangle has already been drawn and its center has been determined, drive a peg into it.

Tie a cord to it and measure the required length equal to the radius of the circle. You also tie the other end of the rope to a peg and draw with it like a compass rod - that’s the whole secret.

Arrangement of the base

And so, the outline of the future gazebo is drawn, pegs are hammered in the corners, and twine is stretched between them. What are your next steps? Options for the development of events may be different.

First way

You can first build a podium, a terrace - whatever you want to call it, and then install the racks of the building frame on it. In any case, this is exactly how they assemble, as well as glazed octagonal gazebos purchased as a kit from the manufacturer. Using this principle, you can build any gazebo, but a lot depends on the design of the support on which it has to be built.

So:

  • If the soil is weak and saturated with water, the building has to be raised higher. In this case, construction is carried out on screw piles. Moreover, they are screwed in not only in the corners and center, but also provide additional support points for the beams of the base of the gazebo floor, as well as for arranging the entrance to it - this is clearly visible in the photo below.

  • We will not dwell on the technology of installing a screw foundation now. If this is your case, watch master classes from professionals, take two assistants - and go for it. After the pile field is ready, the foundation is tied. As a rule, it looks like this: if the piles protrude more than 60-65 cm above the ground, they are tied with a metal corner just below the heads.
  • In other cases, it is enough to tie the timber, which serves as the base of the gazebo floor. Opposite corners of the polyhedron are also connected by beams. One of them, the central one, must be solid (diametric), and the rest are attached to it with radii (halves) and secured with spacers or corners. From above, all connections of the strapping beam are rigidly fixed with metal plates.

  • The beam for strapping is usually taken with a rectangular cross-section, for example: 100*80 mm. During installation, it is placed on its edge - this way it can withstand higher loads. At the points of its support there must be gaskets in the form of strips of roofing material.
  • By the way, the greatest strength of your gazebo will be ensured if laminated timber, rather than planed timber, is used for the construction of load-bearing structures. It is not only more durable, but also has a low coefficient of moisture permeability.

As soon as the arrangement of the base is completed, the floor covering is immediately installed and the gazebo is assembled on the finished podium.

Second way

If the soil is strong and dry, it is enough to place half-buried concrete blocks in the corners and center as supports under the gazebo, or they can be pillars made of brick. Simply put, .

  • In this situation, the procedure for assembling the gazebo is slightly different: vertical posts are placed parallel to the framing beam, then the upper perimeter is tied, and only then the logs are installed and the floor is sheathed.

  • In this case, the size of the timber for the racks can be used the same as for the floor frame, or you can take material with a square cross-section. The top trim, like the roof rafters, can be made with 100*50 mm, or even 100*30 mm timber. In any case, the size of lumber is selected based on the dimensions of the building, and not for reasons of economy. But in general, the more massive the stands, the more harmonious and solid the gazebo looks.
  • If you still don’t want to incur extra costs, keep in mind that the more compact and lighter the structure, the more carefully you need to pay attention to the process of fixing load-bearing structures to the foundation. Vertical posts can be mounted on an embedded reinforcing bar or plate for bolting, or they themselves can be embedded in the ground or brickwork.

It all depends on which foundation option is chosen. By the way, it can also be a monolithic concrete slab. And if you make the gazebo massive enough so that it doesn’t blow away in the event of a strong wind, then you won’t have to attach it to the base.

Walling

After the frame is installed and tied, it is the turn of the enclosing structures. These include the roof, as well as the filling of the wall spans, which, however, may not exist.

The nuances of assembling the roof frame

There are different technologies for assembling a roof frame, and one of them looks like this. The rafter system of the gazebo, which has the shape of a regular octagon, has several structural elements.

In kits purchased from the manufacturer, these are usually parts in maximum factory readiness: the rafters themselves, rafter extensions, large and small mounting panels, support beams.

  • They are assembled strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions, and it looks something like this. A support beam is installed between the mounting panels and secured with 8*80 mm self-tapping screws. On the small board, according to the number of rafters, eight through holes were drilled for an 8*40 mm screw. Steel corners are secured through them using nuts. Next, the rafters will be attached to these corners.

  • When independently cutting and assembling elements of the rafter system, instead of two mounting panels, one support column is used, which also has eight sides. Attached to the post are the metal mounting elements that you see in the picture above - they serve as supports for the rafters.
  • You can assemble the system on the ground, and then use the lifting mechanism to install the roof in place. If it is not possible to lift the entire structure at once, four rafters are first assembled on the ground (one after another), installed upward, and then the missing elements are delivered. You can see how it looks in the finished version in the next photo.

  • Depending on the chosen roofing material, the outer side of the rafters is covered with lath, or continuous sheathing is made with OSB boards, on top of which tiles are mounted. On the inside, you can, by analogy with the floor, hem it with a board or use a soffit for this purpose.

Soffits are perforated siding panels that are usually used to line the roof overhangs of buildings. The holes in the form factor of the panels prevent condensation from accumulating inside the structure, and this is very important for horizontal surfaces.

Filling the spans between the racks

The gazebo can be completely closed and look like a sort of house with solid walls and glazing, or it can be filled only along the lower perimeter, which plays a decorative role.

So:

  • The space between the vertical posts of the gazebo is used to create a beautiful appearance from the outside, and seats are usually installed between them from the inside. To fill the walls of a closed version of the gazebo, boards with “block house” sections and imitation timber, as well as siding panels, both long and plinth, are often used.

  • Hinged, sliding, or fixed glazed frames, stained-glass windows, double-glazed windows and even blinds can be used as windows. As for semi-closed gazebos, there are the greatest possibilities for design - whatever your imagination allows.
  • Let's look at one of the easiest options to implement on your own - panel fencing. They are assembled separately, from 50*100 mm boards, which serve as the lower support and railings, and 10*100 mm, from which vertical decorative elements are made.

  • First, the perimeter of the fence is assembled and then filled with panels. The board is cut into blanks in advance, mechanical processing is immediately performed: wood cutting, milling, grinding. Panels can be mounted at a certain distance or close to each other, with grooves cut using a cutter.
  • They can also alternate with bars: the panel faces outward, and the block faces inward, or vice versa. The railing can also be subject to various processing options or be not just a handrail, but a narrow frame filled with diagonal padding from slats. The same frames can be used to decorate the upper perimeter of the gazebo. The finished panels are mounted in grooves specially selected in the frame racks.

By the way, using this principle, you can make the entire fence or completely fill the spans of the walls with openwork frames, leaving only the passage free. As you can see, there is a good opportunity to use all your abilities and creative ingenuity.

And also, it will be needed to make comfortable seats inside. It is most logical when in an octagonal gazebo they are located around the perimeter. Their shape, as well as the methods of fastening, can be very different, but this is a topic for a separate article.

What are the features of building a gazebo with barbecue?

It will help you to get full pleasure from your vacation and prepare your favorite dishes in nature. The octagonal shape will be the most suitable for this. An example of such a gazebo can be seen in the photo below.


Almost any materials are used for its construction, but it should be taken into account that this is a permanent structure.

Therefore, the following are usually chosen for the base:

  • Stone.
  • Metal.
  • Brick.

These materials will not catch fire from an accidental spark flying out of the grill, which makes the gazebo safer. You can also use wood, having previously treated it with a fire-retardant compound.

A do-it-yourself octagonal gazebo can be equipped with any type of barbecue.

He can be:

  • Stationary. The materials used for its manufacture are:
  1. metal. These are the most inexpensive, but also short-lived designs;
  2. cast iron. Such products retain temperature well, improve the taste of cooked food, but are more expensive;
  3. red brick or stone. Typically, these ovens also have niches for firewood and work surfaces for cutting meat and vegetables are located on them, which makes them more convenient. However, if the owners make a barbecue once a season, then you can get by with an inexpensive metal one.
  • Portable. Such barbecues can be placed anywhere, they are quite compact.

After choosing a barbecue, you can begin building the structure. An octagonal gazebo with a barbecue is erected in the same sequence as without it.

But it is necessary to take into account:

  • If the owners of the site decide to use a heavy stationary barbecue in the gazebo, then a foundation is needed for it, preferably solid and 20 centimeters larger on all sides than the planned dimensions of the barbecue.
  • For such a construction, the presence of a chimney through which hot air circulates, which also makes adjustments to the design of the gazebo. To avoid roof fires, the pipe is insulated with non-flammable mineral wool.

Do you own a summer cottage, a garden, or want to become the owner of a small cozy gazebo? This open-closed structure promotes privacy, serves as a great place for family summer dinners, tea parties in the fresh air, provides shelter on a hot afternoon, and protects from rain.

First you need to select a project. A polygon-shaped structure is not as easy to install as a rectangular one, but the resulting effect will make you forget about these difficulties.

The wooden octagonal gazebo looks the most attractive and compact. If you have a drawing, then building an octagonal gazebo with your own hands will not be difficult. The process will take no more than 2 days, provided that all necessary supplies and tools have been prepared in advance. If you are limited in funds, you can, in accordance with your personal preferences, order a drawing of the structure from a construction company or buy ready-made designs for octagonal gazebos.

A professionally executed drawing of an octagonal gazebo will be inexpensive and will serve as a competent guide to action. With this drawing you can bring to life your own ideas on the shape and design of the planned structure.

Choosing a place

When choosing a place for a gazebo, do not forget to take into account an important point: if you are planning a barbecue, fireplace or stove, then the gazebo should be located at a sufficient distance from other buildings. Be sure to indicate when ordering the project that you want to install a barbecue. This is necessary for correctly calculating the size of the future building. After all, the grill has its own dimensions, which must clearly fit into the interior of the room.

Before starting work, you should decide what dimensions the gazebo will have, what material the roof and the gazebo itself will be made of. The most acceptable environmentally friendly option is a wooden gazebo.

Work progress

Before you begin implementing the project, study photographs of finished wooden gazebos and their design.

Your actions should be step by step:

  • View photo and video materials.
  • The choice that's right for you.
  • Order or make your own drawing or design of your gazebo.
  • Procurement of materials and tools.
  • Installation of the structure.

Materials and tools

Having a project in hand, as well as having minimal skills in working with wooden materials, guided by step-by-step instructions, you will undoubtedly realize your dream - building an octagonal gazebo with your own hands according to the drawings and dimensions.

It is important to choose the right location so that the dimensions of the octagonal gazebo fit clearly into the landscape. Study a detailed schematic representation of your own property. The diagram should show the main buildings on a good scale: house, barn, bathhouse, location of garden trees and paths. Everything must be functional. Closed, shady, secluded corners of your site are perfect for a gazebo.

Materials required for installation of the building:

  • concrete for installing tubular foundation formwork;
  • timber for erecting racks;
  • bars (logs) for the floor;
  • batten;
  • rafter beam;
  • roofing material (roof felt or tiles);
  • metal parts for fastening (nails, bolts, screws).

Do not forget that each wooden part must undergo a step-by-step antifungal treatment with a special impregnation, since the gazebo will be outdoors all the time. It is better to purchase metal parts from stainless steel.

Prepare the necessary tools:

  • saw, drill with a set of drills;
  • tape measure, marking pencil, hammer;
  • shovel;
  • garden earthen drill for digging holes for posts.
  • gloves, safety glasses, ladder.

Proceed with the step-by-step construction of an octagonal gazebo with your own hands.

The foundation can be solid (concrete) or wooden (timber). If you plan to subsequently move the building, then it is better to choose a wooden option. How to install tubular formwork under the foundation can be seen in the photographs. Then lay the timber - the base under the floorboard.

Wooden structures require careful handling. To avoid cracks in the timber, first carefully drill holes in the place where the screws are screwed in. Secure the corner fasteners using metal brackets.

The walls of the gazebo are erected quickly according to the existing drawing.

It is better to install the rafters for mounting the gazebo roof in pairs, evenly mounting them on opposite sides. Do not forget about the parts of the rafters protruding beyond the contour of the gazebo. When the roof frame is ready, you should start covering. First, the roof is sheathed with saw-cut plywood pieces. They are fixed to the rafters with stainless steel screws. If you don't have plywood, regular boards will do. Do not forget to pre-treat them with stain, which protects the wood from rotting. The wooden roof is then covered with tiles or other roofing material.

Having finished with the roof, proceed to installing the fencing of the building. If desired, you can give free space to your imagination and give the fence various shapes, not forgetting to take into account the dimensions. Everything should be harmonious and pleasing to the eye. It is important to seal all excess holes with special wooden putty at the end of the work. After complete drying, sand the wood surface well.

Completion of work

Think about how to decorate the created structure. There are very beautiful decor options with forged items, wooden lace, and original lighting. You can harmoniously arrange original plants and flowers around the perimeter. The octagonal gazebo is already beautiful due to its own design; competent decor will give it even more chic and harmony.

For a quiet family holiday in a small summer cottage, a garden gazebo made of natural wood is perfect. As a basis for construction, you can take the design of an octagonal gazebo, which, thanks to its unusual shape, compact size and natural materials, will harmoniously fit into the concept of almost any garden plot of a country house.

Features of the construction of an octagonal gazebo

Recently, octagonal gazebos, captivating with their original technical solution and the availability of materials for their manufacture, have become widespread in the individual construction sector.

This article will describe the main positive qualities of such a building, thanks to which it has gained wide popularity among summer residents. In addition, the reader will be presented with step-by-step instructions and a detailed description of how to make an octagonal gazebo on your own at your summer cottage.

Start of construction

First of all, you need to look at the site plan, choose a place for construction and prepare a drawing of the octagonal gazebo that you plan to build. At the first stage of construction, you need to make a columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes, on which the entire structure of the gazebo will rest.

  1. In the prepared area, remove the fertile layer of soil and mark it using construction sand. Along the contour of the future building you need to draw a regular octagon of the required size.
  2. In all corners, in the center and at half the distance from the center to the edge of the perimeter in the center plane (see figure), using a D150 mm garden drill, drill holes in the ground to a depth of ~ 1 m.
  3. Insert a D150 mm asbestos cement pipe into the resulting holes, so that its upper part rises 200-250 mm above the ground surface.
  4. Align the upper ends of the pipes in line with the horizon, and make the central pipe 100 mm higher than the rest.
  5. Install a D12 mm reinforcing bar inside along the center line of each pipe. In the central and corner pipes it should rise 200 mm above the upper end. After this, fill the pipes to the top with concrete mixture.

Advice! For additional protection, each asbestos-cement foundation pipe must be covered with bitumen mastic, and to waterproof the base, one or two layers of roofing felt should be laid on top of each column.

Gazebo base

After the concrete has hardened in the foundation columns, you can begin assembling and installing the base of the gazebo. It is an octagonal frame structure made of wooden beams with additional cross beams.

  1. Cut 100x100 timber into equal sections of the required size in the amount of 8 pieces. taking into account the length reserve.
  2. On each side of the eight bars, make cuts to connect them to each other halfway across the tree at an angle of 135°. Also prepare two beams of transverse beams for connecting the half-tree.
  3. Drill a D12 mm hole in the center of the corner connection of adjacent beams.
  4. Carry out a test assembly of the lower frame and, making sure that the dimensions match, install it on the concrete foundation columns, placing each beam on a protruding reinforcing bar. Connect all base elements together using self-tapping screws.
  5. Install a wooden flooring made of 40 mm thick boards on the base. Drill the boards in the right places to allow the passage of the reinforcing bar.

Assembling the supporting frame

After making the base, you can begin installing the vertical supports and the upper transverse trim, which should result in a rigid structure.

  1. From timber 100x100 mm, you need to make 8 supports with a height of 2100 mm and one with a height of 2800 mm. Using a plane, chamfer the corners by 10 mm.
  2. At the bottom end of each beam, drill a hole D12 mm with a depth of 120 mm.
  3. Install vertical supports in the corners and in the center of the base, placing them with holes on the reinforcing bar and securing them with self-tapping screws using metal corners.
  4. Level the supports and, if necessary, secure with temporary wooden braces.
  5. Install a horizontal roof frame made of 50x100 mm boards along the upper edge of the supports. The end of each board must be cut at an angle of 22.5°, adjusted to length and secured with self-tapping screws to a vertical support.
  6. Attach the sheathing of the gazebo walls to the vertical supports to the required level, which in the simplest version can be made of boards 30 mm thick. Window sills can be made from the same board.

Making a roof

The roof is the most labor-intensive and critical aspect of construction, which is complicated by the fact that all work must be performed at height.

  1. Cut a circle with a diameter of 350-400 mm from 20 mm plywood and secure it with glue and self-tapping screws in the middle of the central vertical support.
  2. Make 8 rafters from a 70x100 board.
  3. Make appropriate cutouts in them so that the upper part of the rafters rests on the central circle fixed to the post, and the lower part rests on the boards of the transverse strapping of the vertical supports. Thus, install and secure all 8 rafters with self-tapping screws.
  4. Use 25 mm boards to make and install roofing sheathing on the rafters, cutting each board at an angle of 22.5° and connecting them in the center of the rafters. Secure all roof elements with self-tapping screws until it is given adequate rigidity.
  5. Lay a roof of any suitable waterproofing material on top of the sheathing. Flexible bitumen shingles are considered the most aesthetically pleasing and convenient to use.

Conclusion

Finally, it should be noted that, despite the simplicity of the design, during construction you need to carefully look at the drawings of the octagonal gazebo with your own hands that you are making.

You can get answers to your questions by looking at video in this article or additionally read similar materials on our website, and you can leave your wishes and comments in the comments.

The arrangement of a site near a private house or at a dacha may include landscape planning, planting plants and a lawn. Additional buildings are also an integral part. It's great to have a cozy place to relax and recuperate. An octagonal gazebo with your own hands will allow you to take a breath and enjoy eating in the fresh air. This solution boasts good capacity, which will allow you to invite your best friends.

Reasons for choice

The octagonal structure allows everyone present to comfortably accommodate: communication will be more pleasant, because everyone will be able to see any of the interlocutors. If there is a table of the same shape inside, then up to 15 people can be seated quietly at it. At the same time, no one will disturb their neighbor during the meal. With proper design and selection of materials, it can be used at any time of the year. Even at sub-zero temperatures you can feel quite cozy inside.

The shape of the roof follows that of the entire structure. This means that the building will have several slopes. Even if the area is famous for significant precipitation in winter, this will not become a problem, because the support points are located in such a way that they can withstand significant loads. Also, he simply will not be able to stay for a long period of time. If you provide an overhang of sufficient size, then rainwater will not be blown into the middle by the wind.

Even one person can implement such a project without additional help. It is much easier to do this if you have certain skills in working with power tools on wood or metal. In any case, it will be an advantage to improve them as the case progresses. The key to success is thoughtful initial planning. In this regard, there is no way to do without a good drawing. All dimensions will need to be applied to it. It is better to perform the image in several planes. This will allow you to take into account even small finishing nuances.

Selecting a location

It would be good if the gazebo was surrounded by lush blooming green plants. When there is a small garden near the house, this will be an ideal place. Place the product as far as possible from the main building, this will allow you to completely immerse yourself in silence and escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. There are a few more nuances that will help determine the ideal option for construction:

  • Is it planned to have running water near the gazebo or in it? Guided by this factor, it is necessary that there be communications within reach. If there is a well nearby, you can bring water manually or install a pumping station and make additional pipe connections.
  • The area should be relatively flat. This is not a requirement. In principle, such a structure can be erected on an area with any permissible slope, but there will be certain difficulties in ensuring the same level of supports.
  • Choose an area that is not washed away by groundwater, as well as one where rainwater does not stagnate. This is very important so that the completed project lasts as long as possible. After all, a gazebo is not built for one season.
  • It is better not to place the building close to the edge of the site. This will be inconvenient both for those present and for the neighbors.
  • Review the land deed carefully. Usually it indicates which area on the site is intended for what. If these conditions are not met, then the relevant services have the right to fine the owner or dismantle the fruits of the labor.

Depending on the openness of the area, you can plan what the walls of the gazebo will be like. Is it necessary to close them completely or will a fine mesh be enough to retain the air flow, and the rest will be compensated by the surrounding plants.

Foundation

A gazebo is not a house, so the choice of base is quite wide. Everything will depend on what the soil is like in a particular area, as well as what the planned budget is. We will look at several basic options that you can implement on your own without the help of a specialist. But the most important point at this stage is the marking. It is much more beautiful when the entire structure has equal sides. If you want to achieve exactly this result, then you will need to do the following:

  • The grass in the selected area is mowed. It can interfere with pulling on fishing line or twine.
  • A square is marked. Its side should be equal to the total length or width of the future gazebo. It is very important that all angles are 90°. To do this, 4 pegs are driven in. The diagonals between them are checked. They must match. If this does not work, then one or more elements must be moved to achieve this result. A fishing line or twine is stretched, which forms the correct geometric figure. If desired, the resulting angles can be checked using a construction square.
  • Each side is divided into three equal parts. At these points a peg is driven in. There will be a total of 4 pegs on one side.
  • Now the task will be to connect together those pegs that are hammered in the middle of each side. This must be done so that you get a square with beveled corners.
  • If everything was done correctly, then all 8 sides will be the same length. The first 4 support pegs, along with the fishing line that is stretched between them, can be removed.

There is another way that will allow you to implement this markup:

  • A peg is driven in the middle of the designated area.
  • A rope is tied to it. Its length should be equal to the total length of the future structure. It should be worn so that it can easily move around.
  • A peg with a pointed end is tied to the second end and a circle is drawn.
  • The next step is the diameter through the circle. Another one is drawn perpendicular to it. To the second the next one and so there should be four in total. The resulting points are connected to each other and a regular octagon is obtained.

If the goal is not for all sides to be the same, then you can independently choose to what extent to cut the corners of a square or rectangle. But when there is symmetry, then the whole structure looks much neater.

A pile foundation can be made in a few hours if the supports themselves are purchased ready-made. This option will definitely cost a little more. If the farm has a 50 mm pipe and small remains of sheet metal with a thickness of 5 mm, and also has experience working with an angle grinder and a welding machine, then everything can be done from scratch.

If there are no such materials on the farm, but you need to make do with minimal costs, then you can go another way. But it is important to consider that the condition of the soil should be such that the upper layers do not shift when wet.

  • Marking is done as described in the previous case.
  • A hole is dug in each corner to a depth of 50 cm, its dimensions are 45x45 cm.
  • A layer of 20 cm is filled with sand. It needs to be compacted very well. After this, it can be moistened, added to the level after shrinkage and compacted again.
  • Crushed stone is laid another 20 cm and is also compacted well. The remaining 10 cm is covered with sand.
  • Two blocks are placed on the formed pillow (elements with dimensions of 20x20x40 cm are suitable). They must be set very carefully, because... they will subsequently serve as a reference point for others. They are strengthened together using masonry mortar.
  • Using a water level or rule, two stones are placed at each corner in the same way.
  • The next step is to lay two more blocks perpendicular to the first. All elements must also be in the same horizontal plane. This is very important so that later the entire gazebo does not end up skewed.
  • The interior area is laid in the same way as described above.

Because This option is not suitable for every territory; there is a solution that will be much more reliable.


Another base option that may suit your taste is slab. Its implementation requires no more effort than the previous ones, but in terms of strength it is not inferior, and in some moments it even wins.

  • An octagon is drawn onto the territory.
  • The entire area is excavated to a depth of 30 cm.
  • The bedding is made as described above.
  • The plane is leveled.
  • Wooden formwork is placed in the shape of the future gazebo.
  • A metal sheathing made of reinforcement rods is laid inside the resulting small pit. It doesn’t have to be made voluminous. It is enough to place the pieces on the stands so that they form a lattice.
  • The prepared concrete is poured. It compacts and compacts well.
  • If the formwork has been leveled, then it can be used as beacons for leveling the screed. In this case, you will also need a long rule or profile for drywall.
  • An additional assistant would be a vibrating screed; if you can rent one, that would be great; it will allow you to compact the layer to the required consistency. If such a tool is present, then less water can be added to the solution, which will speed up its setting.
  • It will take a month until it completely hardens. During this time it is better to do nothing. Shrinkage occurs to a certain extent and can lead to damage to the entire structure if it is erected ahead of time.
  • Do not allow the slab to dry out. It needs to be moistened periodically, and it can also be covered with slate or other material, which at first should be protected from direct sunlight. With rapid loss of moisture, cracks appear, which is not good.

The last possible option would be a classic non-buried strip foundation. You will have to tinker a little with it in terms of setting up the formwork, but the result is worth it.

  • Marking is being done. But in this case it is better to take one more step, which will simplify the bookmark. At a distance of 15 cm, you need to make another octagon and stretch the fishing line around the perimeter. This will create two figures, between which the soil will be excavated.
  • The trench is dug to a depth of 30 cm in two layers and backfilled with sand and crushed stone.
  • The next step is to lay out the formwork. Its individual parts must be made according to the size of each of the faces, in which case everything will work out as needed.
  • It can be strengthened with the help of jibs, which will rest against the formwork at one end and against a hammered peg at the other.
  • It is important to maintain the horizontal and vertical angle of the plane.
  • A metal sheathing or rubble is placed inside.
  • All contents are poured using concrete mortar.
  • The top is pulled together and removed so that later the racks can be at the same level.
  • Caring for the finished base in the first stages is the same as described above.

If you do not plan to lay tiles on the base slab, then you can make the surface more attractive. To do this, you need to sprinkle the fresh mortar with dry cement and carefully walk over it with a lath. In this way, the so-called ironing process is carried out.

Wooden gazebo project

The dimensions that will be given in the described solution can be taken as basic or proportionally increased in accordance with the territory planned for development. To complete the work you will need the following tools:

  • Miter saw;
  • hand circular saw;
  • square;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • ladder;
  • screwdriver;
  • fastening material;
  • belt sander (optional)
  • marking tool.

Materials you will need:

  • timber with a size of 10×10 cm (or 15×15 cm);
  • edged board 10×5 cm (or 15×5 cm);
  • board for sheathing under the roof (purchased for a specific material);
  • roofing material.

All work must begin with the installation of the floor. This is important so that later it will be convenient to move when installing other parts. For a foundation made of blocks, piles and columns, the sequence of work is described below.

Grillage installation. This is a wooden base that will connect all the supporting elements and become the starting point for the entire structure. If a rectangular structure is mounted, then usually no special difficulties arise, but in the case of this option you will have to work a little. 8 pieces of timber are prepared. Their size should correspond to the length of one of the edges plus an overlap of 5 cm. Using a miter saw, you need to cut the edges at an angle of 22.5°. If this is done with a regular hacksaw, then the calculation can be made as follows. If the beam size is 10x10 cm, a line is drawn at a distance of 10 cm from the edge. If you look from above, it turns out to be a square. For this figure, you need to divide the bottom side into 2 parts and lower a line from the upper corner of the end to this mark. This will be the required angle. It is very important to comply with this so that the entire structure can fit together well. All elements can be connected to each other by joining them in half. To do this, a notch is made on the edge of each beam for half its thickness and for the width that the adjacent element will lie on.

It is better to fasten them using self-tapping screws with a hex head (“capcaillie” or HEX).

Before placing the base on the concrete structure, it is necessary to lay waterproofing. For this, roofing material or bicrost is used. They are necessary so that moisture from the supports is not transferred to the wood and it does not rot. Fixation is carried out using bolts to metal or anchors to concrete. In this case, you need to be careful so that the fastening material does not get into the screws that fasten the grillage.

Installation of lag. In this case, boards suitable for the thickness of the grillage will be used for supporting elements. There are two ways to install them. Everything will depend on what pattern will be used for the subsequent flooring. If it is just an edged board that is laid parallel across the entire area, then the simplest option will do. To do this, 8 elements are installed from each face to the middle. At the same time, they can be secured to the grillage through and through using self-tapping screws or metal corners. They all converge towards the middle and are placed on a central beam or column that was provided for these purposes. After this, they are connected by curved metal strips on the inside. If the installation is carried out in a circle, then you will have to complicate your task a little. The same 8 elements will be laid, but they will be attached to the wooden base at the corners. In order for the joining to take place at the highest level, then at the ends it will be necessary to make cuts in the shape of an isosceles triangle, the upper angle of which is 45°. At the same time, it fits perfectly onto the corresponding grillage. Fastening is carried out using metal corners. In the middle, the beams are brought together in the same way as described above.

Additionally, a jumper is made approximately in the middle of each leg; it is connected to the corresponding side of the base using another segment.

In another option, you don’t have to worry about cutting down the lag in this way. But for this, at the stage of constructing the foundation, it is necessary to provide additional supports. You will need 3 of them in the middle of the structure. If this was provided, then it will be possible to install three parallel logs between two of the sides of the octagon; perpendicular jumpers are mounted to provide rigidity.

The surface is being laid. If this is a circular solution, then each plank at the ends must be cut at an angle of 22.5°, in this case they will fit perfectly together and you will get a beautifully shaped base. If the boards are laid parallel across the entire space, then after installation is completed they must be cut so that they are flush with the grillage. They can be attached using wood screws or nails to the logs that were installed earlier.

The floor for the slab foundation option can be made later by laying tiles or other flooring. For a strip base, you can compact the entire space inside with sand. But this should not be done to the top, but with a gap for laying paving slabs. It is located inside, and the walls of the base serve as a kind of stops that prevent spreading.

There is no point in carrying out finishing processing yet, because... The main work is still ahead. The next step is to install the frame:


Racks for strip and slab foundations are installed directly on the base, without a wooden bottom frame. But for this it will be necessary to provide waterproofing for the posts. Their lower part to a height of 10 cm can be wrapped in bikrost or roofing felt, or simply made into linings from this material.

Metal gazebo project

Perhaps someone will decide for themselves it is more expedient to build a gazebo made of metal. For this option you will need a 50×30 mm profile pipe. The total length that will be needed to create the frame and stands for the benches will be approximately 100 m, as well as 6 sheets. Tools required:

  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine;
  • roulette;
  • consumables for power tools;
  • square;
  • building level ;
  • pipe bender;
  • drill;
  • riveter;
  • miter saw for metal.

The structure can be installed on any of the types of foundations listed. The manufacturing process will be as follows:

  • Using a grinder, 12 blanks 1.25 m long are made. They will be necessary to create the upper and lower base. For arched elements, 8 pieces of 4.7 m each are cut.
  • Each of the 12 workpieces must be cut off at an angle of 22.5°. This can be done using a miter saw or a grinder. Angle calculations are made as described for wooden grillage beams.
  • Using a welding machine, two identical octagonal frames are made.
  • Arched arches are made using a pipe bender. They need to be made in such a way that the even racks up to a semicircle have a size of 1.5 m, and the distance between them is 1.2 m. If there is no desire or opportunity to bend a profile pipe, then you can take segments with the size of the overall height and make ordinary straight lines racks.
  • At the base, between two opposite sides, two strips are welded along their entire length. Two more jumpers are attached perpendicular to them, which will ensure the rigidity of the structure.
  • Prepared arcs are attached to the lower octagon. There remains a gap of 10 cm between them. This is necessary in order to make additional jumpers. Their role can be decorative patterned products made from strips of metal.
  • The required roof angle is determined.
  • 8 elements are cut that will serve as support strips for the roofing deck. Their upper ends are cut into an isosceles triangle with an angle at the apex of 45°.
  • They are attached to the second octagon and welded together to form a monolithic structure that will resemble a pyramid.
  • The resulting structure is welded onto the installed arches.
  • Using prepared sheets of metal tiles, the roof is sewn up. Holes of suitable size are drilled and fastening is carried out with rivets. You can use special tile screws with a rubber stop and a hex head.
  • At a level of 1 m from the base, jumpers are made in the arches. Subsequently, they will serve as an upper support for the back of the bench.
  • To organize the seats, sections of profile pipe are attached perpendicularly to the racks. To provide additional support, it is necessary to make oblique supports.

Finishing

The first step is to ensure that the material from which the project is made is protected from exposure to various weather conditions. In this case, the metal is cleaned of rust or treated with a special compound that removes it. The next layer is a primer and finishing paint. For wood, the process will be a little more troublesome. The entire structure will need to be sanded with a belt or eccentric machine. If it is necessary to change the shade, it is opened with stain. The raised fibers are sanded again. Three layers of varnish are applied. After the first two, you also need to go over with fine sandpaper to improve adhesion.

The best option would be a yacht or other composition for street use.

To make it comfortable to be inside, you need to take care of the benches. Preparations for them must be made at the stage of constructing the frame. Special supports can be provided, for example as described for the metal version. The edged boards for flooring are carefully sanded, the ends are cut at an angle of 22.5°. Their size should be such that they lie on half of the support. They are processed in the same way as the frame. Wooden backrests are installed at a suitable height.

It would be good if the table’s shape also had 8 edges. This will allow it to fit perfectly into the interior. The optimal width would be 1.5 m. In this case, it will be convenient to reach the middle without additional effort. To strengthen it in the metal version, you will need to weld the frame and lower the racks to the jumpers that run along the base. For a wooden structure, you can order a table that will not be fixed inside, but will be a separate element.

The side walls are decorated in any interesting way. This can be a wooden lattice, which is made of boards of small thickness, they are located one in relation to the other at an angle of 45°. If desired, the bottom can be closed completely to the middle, and double-glazed windows can be installed in the remaining openings. This will allow you to use the building in any weather, even in strong winds. To protect yourself from little bloodsuckers, you can cover the entire area with a mosquito net. Fresh air will easily flow into the middle, but insects will not be able to get inside.

For evening entertainment, you need to think about what kind of lighting will be in the gazebo. The most economical option is LEDs. In principle, if the roof is made of high quality and does not leak, then an ordinary lamp or chandelier will do. But due to high humidity, the internal contacts will oxidize very quickly. To prevent this, sealed products with an IP67 or IP68 rating have been developed. They are not afraid of drops of water or dust. The main connection can be made using a double braided cable. This, for example, could be VVG. It contains a monolithic copper core. To prevent it from sagging, it is tied to a cable. There is a type of wire in which the metal cord is already soldered into the outer braid. There should be a separate automatic switch in the panel, with the help of which, if necessary, it will be possible to de-energize the gazebo. Switches and sockets are matched to match so that they do not stand out too much. They will be outdoor installation. It is advisable that both switches and sockets are also sealed.

We are confident that with the basic information and guidance on how to build this type of gazebo, you will be able to complete the task. No two projects are identical. Therefore, we are interested in what happened in your case and how the finished gazebo looks on the site. Share the results of your work in the comments to the article.

Video

Construction of the gazebo in progress:



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