Longitudinal saw sharpening angles chain. Sharpening chain for rip sawing

Saw chains for the purchased chain saw model must be selected according to the following basic parameters:

The length of a suitable tire, traditionally measured in inches and duplicated in centimeters;

The thickness of the guide teeth is 1.1, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.6 mm;

Cutting depth - 0.025'' (0.635 mm.), 0.030'' (0.762 mm.) and 0.070'' (1.778 mm.).

The number of teeth is usually from 40 to 72 teeth;

Distance between teeth - 1/4’’, 0.325’’, 3/8’’, 0.404’’ and 3/4’’;

The profile (the shape of the cutting teeth) is chisel (“seven” has sharp angles between the edges) and chipper (rounded “sickle”);

To the manufacturer - saw chains produced by Stihl and Oregon are considered and are the best;

Purpose: a) for cross cutting, b) for rip sawing, c) universal.

Tire length- usually measured in inches and duplicated in centimeters. The longer the bars, the more powerful the saw's engine must be, so the characteristics of chain saws usually include a recommended maximum bar length.

Thickness of guide teeth- 1.1, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.6 mm;

Depth of cut- the amount of excess of the upper edge of the tooth above the cut stop, it regulates the thickness of the chips.

Most often, there are samples with gaps of 0.025’’ (0.635 mm) and 0.030’’ (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070’’ (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.

Number of teeth- depends on the length of the tire and the distance between the teeth.

Tooth spacing (Chain pitch) is the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. All saw chains are divided into five groups with pitches of 1/4'' (6.35 mm.), 0.325'' (8.25 mm.), 3/8'' (9.3 mm.), 0.404'' ( 10.26 mm.) and 3/4'' (19.05 mm.).

Profile(shape of cutting teeth) chisel and chipper primarily affect cutting performance and speed:

The first option is called chisel (from the English chisel - cutter, chisel), the second - chipper (from the English to chip - chop into chips).

Chisel The teeth are characterized by high cutting performance and speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller contact area with the wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance.

This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, quickly becomes dull when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires precise adherence to all angles and parameters.

Crescent profile - chipper- less effective, since its contact area with wood is somewhat larger, but it is also much easier to care for - rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.

Manufacturer— Saw chains produced by Stihl and Oregon are of high quality, so it is advisable to use them.

Purpose- the more common saw chains for cross-cutting and the less common saw chains for longitudinal sawing. The main difference is the sharpening angles. Saw chains for cross-cutting have a sharpening angle of 25 - 35 degrees, and saw chains for longitudinal sawing have a sharpening angle of 5 - 15 degrees.

A legitimate question arises: is it possible to use chains with a sharpening angle of 20 degrees? Having acquired sharpening machine, I’ll try to resharpen the dull chain and test it.

Detailed information about the parameters of saw chains— http://www.camodelkin.ru/?info=48:

TECHNICAL PARAMETERS OF SAW CHAINS

When choosing a chain for a chain saw, pay attention to such characteristics as its purpose, pitch, drive link thickness, profile height and cutting depth.

Purpose. It is known that sawing wood along the grain is more labor-intensive than across it, and to achieve best result It is advisable to use circuits suitable for the task at hand.

The main difference between longitudinal and transverse type chains is the angles of attack of the cutting links. For cross-cutting chains, they are 25–35 degrees; for longitudinal sawing chains, the angles are sharper - from 5 to 15 degrees.

The use of chains inappropriate for their purposes can lead to either reduced productivity (if cross-cutting is carried out with a longitudinal chain), or increased “aggressiveness”, strong vibration and additional load on the engine.

However, many users prefer not to waste time replacing the chain and longitudinal cuts are made with the same chain as transverse ones, especially if the “quality” of the resulting cut does not require compliance with the “highest” level.

Therefore, chains for rip sawing are in demand in smaller quantities, and they are produced in volumes commensurate with demand. It is not surprising that it is much more difficult to buy such a chain than a cross chain. And the question of purchasing them becomes really relevant if you plan to use special machines like mini-sawmills.

Chain pitch- the distance between three consecutively located rivets, divided by two. This is a defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with pitches of 1/4’’, 0.325’’, 3/8’’, 0.404’’ and 3/4’’.

The 1/4'' (6.35 mm) pitch is inherent in miniature chains installed on low-power one-handed saws. True, in Russia they are practically not used.

0.325'' (8.25 mm) and 3/8'' (9.3 mm) pitch chains are the most common options. More than 80% of saws produced around the world are equipped with them.

0.404'' (10.26mm) and 3/4'' (19.05mm) pitches feature larger link chains for increased performance. For several decades they were equipped with saws Russian production, but are now installed only on powerful felling saws and harvesting equipment.

Pitch is traditionally measured in inches, and is written as follows: three digits are in ordinary fractions, and two are in decimal fractions. This is necessary to avoid confusion. In particular, the result of converting 3/8’’ to decimal is 0.375’’ - the difference with the previous standard (0.325’’) is just one digit.

The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance. But, on the other hand, the wider the cut, and a more powerful saw is required to overcome the cutting resistance. Fine pitch chains have other advantages - larger number teeth per unit length, smooth movement in the cut and, accordingly, reduced vibration. And their cuts are cleaner.

Drive link thickness(shank) is the second most important parameter. During operation, the chain slides in the groove of the bar, and this sliding should be smooth, without snagging and at the same time without unnecessary “bumpiness”.

In a word, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, increasing the reliability of the chain fit and eliminating the possibility of it “jumping off.”

The international community of manufacturers provides five standard sizes, measured in inches or millimeters (whichever is more convenient): 1.1 mm (0.043''), 1.3 mm (0.050''), 1.5 mm (0.058''), 1 .6 mm (0.063'') and 2.0 mm (0.080'').

1.1 mm - such thin drive links are typical for the smallest chains and saws of the corresponding size.

1.3 mm is perhaps the most popular size, typical for household and semi-professional chains.

1.5 mm - ranks second in demand. Installed on more powerful and productive saws.

1.6 mm and 2.0 mm - such thick shanks are found only on chains for highly professional saws.

Profile height. Saw chains are available in high or low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar.

The former are used for professional purposes to obtain maximum performance.

The latter are installed on amateur chainsaws, since due to the increased support area of ​​the cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cutting chips, they are safer.

Depth of cut- the size of the gap between the upper edge of the tooth and the cut stop, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Most often, there are samples with gaps of 0.025’’ (0.635 mm) and 0.030’’ (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070’’ (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.

The depth of cut largely determines the performance of the chain and its sawing speed. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. But in the pursuit of efficiency, one should not forget about vibration: chains with a small depth of cut in the cut move more softly and “twitch” less.

Therefore, manufacturers, in an effort to balance vibration and performance, very often install cutters with a minimum cutting depth on a chain with a large pitch, and vice versa.

Engine capacity. This parameter characterizes the saw and, it would seem, has nothing to do with the chain itself. However, catalogs and brief annotations for chains often list the engine sizes they are designed to work with. And these recommendations should be followed.

A chain installed on an engine that is too powerful for it will experience heavy loads and fail ahead of time, never having exhausted its service life. Variations in the load on the motor and other important components of the saw itself.

COMPONENTS OF THE CHAIN

Any saw chain consists of three types of links: cutting, driving (shanks) and connecting. The strength of the connection is ensured by rivets.

Cutting link- perhaps the most complex part of the saw chain, actually consisting of two parts: a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with a contour cutting angle L-shaped.

The upper cutting edge of the link is always wider than the chain and bar itself, due to which the cut is quite free and the cutting resistance is minimal. The tooth works on the principle of a plane: the further the knife (upper cutting edge) is extended above the plane of the plane (cutting limiter), the thicker the chips.

The performance characteristics of the cutting link are determined by numerous factors, namely: the sharpening angle of the top edge and its working, cutting angle, the angle of the side edge (angle of attack) and the height of the cutting stop. When sharpening, the values ​​of all these parameters must be strictly maintained, since even a small change can lead to negative consequences.

The cutting teeth are right-handed and left-handed, and they are fixed alternately on the chain. But in general, incisors are divided into types depending on their profile.

Upon careful study of the “figures” formed by the upper and side faces, two “boundary” options can be distinguished: “seven” with acute angle between the edges and a rounded “sickle”. The first option is called chisel (from the English chisel - cutter, chisel), the second - chipper (from the English to chip - chop into chips).

Chisel teeth are characterized by high cutting performance and speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller contact area with the wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance. This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, quickly becomes dull when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires precise adherence to all angles and parameters.

The crescent-shaped profile - chipper - is less effective, since its contact area with the wood is somewhat larger, but it is also much easier to care for - the rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.

All other profile options are various modifications of the two described above.

Upper and side edge cutting element is usually covered with a thin film of some kind hard metal. Most often it is chromium, but sometimes a nickel-phosphorus alloy is used.

The coating applied by the galvanic method significantly improves the anti-friction properties of parts, increases wear resistance, hardness and, in fact, does all the main work of cutting wood fibers. The steel “core” serves as a substrate or base for the coating.

Leading links(shanks) ensure the movement of the chain, transmitting rotation from the engine through the drive sprocket, as well as a stable position of the chain on the saw bar. In this case, the chain moves along a special groove provided in the design of the guide bar.

A “side” responsibility of the drive link is to distribute the lubricant from the drive sprocket (where the oil pump supplies it) throughout the bar and chain. It should be noted that the number of shanks plays a major role in designating the chain length for a certain length of saw bar, which makes it easier right choice and compliance with standard size.

Connecting links, true to their name, they combine the cutting and driving parts into a single whole, called a saw chain.

Electric chain saw Champion 324N-18

Tire length - 45 cm.
Chain pitch - 3/8 inch
The groove width is 1.3 mm.
Number of links - 62 pcs.

Cordless chain saw Champion CSB360 has a saw chain with the following parameters:

Tire length - 30.5 cm.
Chain pitch - 3/8 inch
The groove width is 1.3 mm.
Number of links - 47 pcs. (actually 45 links)

The Leroy Merlin store (Mytishchi) has in stock:
1. Saw chain 45 links, pitch 3/8 inch, groove 1.3 mm - 531 ₽ / pc.
2. Saw chain Oregon 91VXL045E Low Profile, groove 3/8″, 45 links - 632 ₽ / pc.
3. Saw chain 62 links Caliber, pitch 3/8, groove 1.3 mm - 458 ₽ / pc.

I invite everyone to speak out in

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: the teeth of a chainsaw eventually wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips that form. With a dull cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly - choose the optimal technology, determine what angle of tooth sharpening should be and how to check it?

External signs of a dull cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Let us recall that a chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of movement of the chain. It has two working edges: a side edge, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and an upper edge, located at a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chips removed. Since the main cutting force falls precisely on the working angle, all subsequent work with the tool will depend on the angle to which the tooth is sharpened.

Figure 1 – Functional parts of a chainsaw tooth and their appearance

Before the beginning long work with a chainsaw, she must perform an inspection and test cutting, as a result of which:

  1. Visually determine the presence (or absence) of a conical section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as a radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).

Figure 2

  1. Check the feed force at which the tool operates steadily and produces a quick cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant resistance to the material.
  2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are noticeable, then the teeth need to be sharpened.
  3. Inspect the appearance of the newly cut end (especially if the tool is used for rip sawing). If there are rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

The cutting edge of the tooth is characterized the following parameters:

  • Width;
  • Thickness;
  • Sharpening angle.

In addition, each tool model has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with the power of the chainsaw and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is taken smaller (for example, 0.325 inches). In this case, work productivity will decrease, but the required force will be significantly lower. Upper step values ​​for household chainsaws are adopted extremely rarely, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. The engine power should not exceed 2500 W.

The thickness of the cutting edge of most chainsaw manufacturers is set to the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely have little functionality: they can only be used for cutting thin branches).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases, a low profile is used for household gasoline tools. When sharpening limiters, this parameter is very important, because as the height of the excess permissible values ​​decreases, the vibration of the tool during operation increases, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get carried away with reducing the height of the stop when sharpening a tooth.

The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain depends on the main purpose of the tool - for transverse or longitudinal sawing. Since during longitudinal sawing the resistance of wood is always noticeably higher, the edge of the tooth must be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6...12° (for comparison - with a predominance of cross cuts - up to 25...30°).

Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since an unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping when using a chainsaw. This is especially important for links that are made from structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40ХГС or 35ХГСА.

Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​of the tooth angles. It is used to control the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions and can vary within 65...80°).

It is especially important to use a template to estimate the clearance angle of the upper blade. This sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain is otherwise very difficult to determine, and yet it must be maintained within rather limited limits - from 50 to 60°.

The sharpening angle is measured by determining the angle between the top cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide. The sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. As the hardness of the wood increases, its value should decrease. In general it is considered optimal value

angle 10...12° - for longitudinal cutting, and 25...30° - for cross cutting. Figure 3 – Appearance

template for sharpening chainsaw teeth

One round file is not enough. To sharpen the limiter, you will need a flat file, and to clean the work area, you will need a hook that removes the sawdust that forms. There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of direction of movement of the file relative to the chain axis are graduated. As can be seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set to obtain the correct angle for sharpening a chain manually is shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 5 – Set of sharpening tools and accessories

First, the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then the other. Start by lightly pressing the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

Mechanized sharpening on a machine

Sharpening on a machine is much more convenient and does not require highly qualified performers. Such machines are electrically driven and equipped with special grinding wheels.

For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much storage space and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units should operate from a stationary power supply with a voltage of 220 V, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on the circuit.

When choosing a machine, you need to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:

  • Possibility of processing teeth with different thickness top edge and different steps chains;
  • Possibility of adjusting the sharpening angle, within the limits specified earlier;
  • Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
  • Constant value of the cutting width.

The design of the machine is simple and includes a drive motor, a shaft with seat for a sharpening disc, a handle with controls, a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the pressing force on the sharpened element is provided by a spring clamp. Modern models sharpening machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for self-centering of the product on the machine. For ease of work, there is a measuring scale on the clamp body.

Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric light bulb, which illuminates the working area, as well as a hydraulic booster, which facilitates sharpening.

Safety of work is ensured by a folding safety shield.

The first chainsaws appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century. The chains installed on them with straight and flat teeth, like modern hacksaws, were characterized by low efficiency, quickly dulled and required very labor-intensive maintenance. For example, when sharpening, it was necessary to take into account that the teeth are divided into undercutting, cutting and chipping teeth, and have different cutting angles and orientation in relation to the direction of movement (can be deviated to the left, right or located in the center).

There is no doubt that attempts to modernize the circuits have been made repeatedly, but only one of them was successful. Developed by Joseph Cox and launched in metal in 1947, the new L-shaped universal sawing chain, thanks to its increased productivity and simplified sharpening, very quickly pushed its predecessor out of the market, and now almost all saw chains“flaunt” the characteristic crescent-shaped profile of the cutting links.

Technical parameters of saw chains

Picking up chain for chainsaw, pay attention to such characteristics as its purpose, pitch, thickness of the drive link, profile height and cutting depth.

It is known that sawing wood cutting along the grain is more labor intensive than cutting across it, and to achieve the best results it is advisable to use chains that are suitable for the task at hand.

The main difference between longitudinal and transverse type chains is the angles of attack of the cutting links. For cross-cutting chains, they are 25–35 degrees; for longitudinal sawing chains, the angles are sharper – from 5 to 15 degrees.

The use of chains inappropriate for their purposes can lead to either reduced productivity (if cross-cutting is carried out with a longitudinal chain), or increased “aggressiveness”, strong vibration and additional load on the engine. However, many users prefer not to waste time replacing the chain and longitudinal cuts are made with the same chain as transverse ones, especially if the “quality” of the resulting cut does not require compliance with the “highest” level. Therefore, chains for longitudinal sawing are in demand in smaller quantities, and they are produced in volume , commensurate with demand. It is not surprising that it is much more difficult to buy such a chain than a cross chain. And the issue of purchasing them becomes really relevant if you plan to use special machines like mini-sawmills.

The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance.

Chain pitch– the distance between three consecutively located rivets, divided by two. This is a defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with pitches of 1/4″, 0.325″, 3/8″, 0.404″ and 3/4″.

Step 1/4″(6.35 mm) is inherent in miniature chains installed on low-power one-handed saws. True, in Russia they are practically not used.

Chains with steps 0.325″(8.25 mm) and 3/8″(9.3 mm) - the most common options. More than 80% of saws produced around the world are equipped with them.

Steps 0.404″(10.26 mm) and 3/4″(19.05 mm) are distinguished by chains with larger links and increased productivity. For several decades, they were equipped with Russian-made saws, but now they are installed only on powerful felling saws and harvesting equipment.

Pitch is traditionally measured in inches, and is written as follows: three digits are ordinary, and two digits are decimal fractions. This is necessary to avoid confusion. In particular, the result of converting 3/8″ to a decimal fraction is 0.375″ - a difference from the previous standard (0.325″) of just one digit.

The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance. But, on the other hand, the wider the cut, and a more powerful saw is required to overcome the cutting resistance. Small pitch chains have other advantages - a larger number of teeth per unit length, smooth movement in the cut and, accordingly, reduced vibration. And their cuts turn out cleaner.

Drive link thickness(shank) is the second most important parameter. During operation, the chain slides in the groove of the bar, and this sliding should be smooth, without snagging and at the same time without unnecessary “bumpiness”. In a word, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, increasing the reliability of the chain fit and eliminating the likelihood of it “jumping off”. The international community of manufacturers provides five standard sizes, measured in inches or millimeters (whichever is more convenient): 1.1 mm (0.043″), 1.3 mm (0.050″), 1.5 mm (0.058″), 1.6 mm (0.063 ″) and 2.0 mm (0.080″).

1.1 mm– such thin drive links are typical for the smallest chains and saws of the appropriate size.

1.3 mm– perhaps the most popular size, typical for household and semi-professional chains.

1.5 mm– ranks second in demand. Installed on more powerful and productive saws.

1.6 mm And 2.0 mm– such thick shanks are found only on chains for highly professional saws.

Profile height. Saw chains are available in high or low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar. The former are used for professional purposes to achieve maximum productivity. The latter are installed on amateur-class chainsaws, since due to the increased support area of ​​the cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cut chips, they are safer.

Depth of cut - the size of the gap between the upper edge of the tooth and the cut stop, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Most often there are samples with gaps of 0.025″ (0.635 mm) and 0.030″ (0.762 mm), less often – with gaps up to 0.070″ (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.

The depth of cut largely determines the performance of the chain and its sawing speed. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. But in the pursuit of efficiency, one should not forget about vibration: chains with a small depth of cut in the cut move softer, “twitch” less. Therefore, manufacturers, trying to balance vibration and performance, very often install cutters with a minimum depth of cut on chains with a large pitch, and vice versa .

Engine capacity. This parameter characterizes the saw and, it would seem, has nothing to do with the chain itself. However, catalogs and brief annotations for chains often list the engine sizes they are designed to work with. And these recommendations should be followed. A chain installed on an engine that is too powerful for it will experience heavy loads and fail ahead of time, never having reached its service life. Variations in the load on the motor and other important components of the saw itself.

Chain components

Any saw chain consists of three types of links: cutting, driving (shanks) and connecting. The strength of the connection is ensured by rivets.

Cutting link- perhaps the most complex part of the saw chain, actually consisting of two parts: a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with an L-shaped contour cutting angle.

The upper cutting edge of the link is always wider than the chain and bar itself, due to which the cut is quite free and the cutting resistance is minimal. The tooth works on the principle of a plane: the further the knife (upper cutting edge) is extended above the plane of the plane (cutting limiter), the thicker the chips.

The performance characteristics of the cutting link are determined by numerous factors, namely: the sharpening angle of the top edge and its working, cutting angle, the angle of the side edge (angle of attack) and the height of the cutting stop. During sharpening, the values ​​of all these parameters must be strictly maintained, since even a small change can lead to negative consequences.

The cutting teeth are right-handed and left-handed, and they are strengthened alternately with chains. But in general, cutters are divided into types depending on their profile. Upon careful study of the “shapes” formed by the upper and side edges, two “boundary” options can be distinguished: a “seven” with an acute angle between the edges and a rounded “sickle”. The first option is called chisel (from the English chisel - cutter, chisel), the second - chipper (from the English to chip - chop into chips).

Chisel teeth are characterized by high cutting performance and cutting speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller contact area with wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance. This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, quickly becomes dull when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires strict adherence to all angles and parameters.

The crescent-shaped profile - chipper - is less effective, since it has a slightly larger contact area with the wood, but it is also much easier to care for - the rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.

All other profile options are various modifications of the two described above.

The top and side edges of the cutting element are usually covered with a thin film of some hard metal. Most often it is chromium, but sometimes a nickel-phosphorus alloy is used. The coating applied by galvanic method significantly improves the anti-friction properties of parts, increases wear resistance, hardness and, in fact, does all the main work of cutting wood fibers. The steel “core” serves as a substrate or base for the coating.

Leading links(shanks) ensure the movement of the chain, transmitting rotation from the engine through the drive sprocket, as well as a stable position of the chain on the saw bar. In this case, the chain moves through a special groove provided in the design of the guide bar. A “side” responsibility of the drive link is to distribute lubricant from the drive sprocket (where the oil pump supplies it) throughout the bar and chain. It should be noted that the number of shanks plays a major role in designating the chain length for a certain length of the saw bar, which facilitates the correct selection and sizing.

Connecting links, true to their name, they combine the cutting and driving parts into a single whole, called a saw chain.

Cutting link

Cutting link parameters

Depth of cut

Top edge sharpening angle

Cutting angle

Side angle

Types of cutting links

Chisel type cutting link

Chipper type cutting link

The order of the links

Standard

With semi-pass

With a pass

Technological improvements

Developed by Joseph Cox, the cutting link concept has changed little over the years. Of course, they tried to modernize it, but all the improvements made concerned either the lubrication system or the fight against vibration and kickback.

Lubrication system. Chain and bar lubrication is a very important factor. The design of chain saws includes a pump that supplies oil from the tank to the cutting system through special holes. But then the chain itself distributes it. The shanks, passing the sprocket, “capture” the lubricant and “spread” it throughout the tire and chain. This is why they design the lower part in the form of a hook - so that they “grab” more and “lose” less. To additionally retain the lubricant, special holes are drilled in the shanks or channels are milled. The lubrication system often uses connecting links - additional recesses are made in them for lubrication.

Abundant lubrication reduces friction and heat, thereby not only increasing the service life of each element, but also reducing chain stretch. So constant control over the lubrication process is in the interests of each user. It is carried out quite simply: when accelerating the chain, microscopic drops of oil (if it is supplied in sufficient quantity) form an oil trace in the form of a strip on any light surface (for example, on a tree trunk that is about to be sawed), if bring the end of the tire to it. The absence of a trace is an alarming signal indicating a lack of lubrication and requiring an immediate solution to the problem (checking the presence of oil, cleaning the tire groove, adjusting the pump, etc.). And one more thing: modern chainsaws allow the installation of chains and bars of various lengths, but before using a new headset, you need to make sure that the oil pump can handle its “processing”.

To improve the lubrication process, many manufacturers in Russia offer special oils. They are made on a plant basis (for example, rapeseed) using polymer additives that self-neutralize within two hours upon contact with plants and soil. In addition to the environmental benefits, the lubricating properties of these oils are 30% higher than those of automobile oils. And their consumption is approximately 25% less.

Combat vibration and kickback.Vibration is dangerous because as a result of its prolonged exposure (as happens, for example, among professional fellers), the so-called Raynaud's symptom can develop: as a result of deterioration in blood supply, the fingertips lose their sensitivity and react painfully to temperature changes.

The desire of manufacturers to reduce the harmful effects of high-frequency vibrations comes down mainly to the development of special shock-absorbing parts. The cause of vibration is the constant collision of the cutting teeth with the wood. At the moment when the cutter hits the wood with its working edge, it stops for a split second, being clamped between the wood and the guide bar. In this case, part of the shock wave energy is transmitted through the chain and drive sprocket to the operator’s hands. Another part is also communicated through the chain to the guide bar and, again, to the operator’s hands. If you reduce the impact force, the vibration level will also decrease.

The beveled cut stop helps reduce shaking - thanks to it, the chain moves more smoothly, and the wood slides off the cutting tooth more smoothly. Special shock-absorbing protrusions on the driving and connecting links also serve the same purpose.

Another effective method is to bevel or raise the heel of the cutting link. This design allows the saw chain to sag slightly when the cutting tooth hits the wood, and the link does not immediately hit the bar, and the force of this impact is noticeably reduced. As a result, not only vibration is reduced, but also tire and chain wear.

These structural elements are designed to help with reverse impact - a situation that occurs when the user touches any hard surface with the toe of the tire while the chain is moving (if we draw an analogy with a watch dial - the sector “from 12 to 3 o’clock”). At the same time, the saw rebounds sharply, creating a traumatic moment. The beveled cutting stop and shock-absorbing lugs minimize this effect.

The order of the links

Saw chains are classified based on their dimensions, design features and the order of the links. It can be standard, with a half pass or skip. In the first case, there are two leading links for each cutter. In the second, every third cutting link is replaced by a connecting link. And finally, in the third case, a connecting link is installed in place of every second cutting link.

It is almost impossible to purchase a ready-made chain with a “non-standard” alternation of links - they are not found in stores. It’s another matter if the chain is riveted independently. An artificially high distance between the cutters reduces their number, and, consequently, reduces the cost. However, increasing this distance increases vibration, reduces productivity and cutting speed.

Care and maintenance of saw chains

The saw set - that is, the chain, bar and drive sprocket - is consumables, and, naturally, when purchasing, the user is interested in the question: how long will this material last? But there is no exact answer here, since the “shelf life” of the above-mentioned parts largely depends on the type of work that will be performed with their help, on the degree of care for them, etc. Contaminated sawing material and careless handling will significantly reduce the service life. For example, if you touch the ground with the tip of the tire while working, the sharpening quickly “goes away” - sand (i.e., abrasive) in combination with high speed of movement “takes away” it very quickly. A nail in an old log cut for firewood can sometimes destroy even a new chain without any hope of resuscitation. And there is no need to remind that such moments are dangerous not only for the chain and saw, but also for the operator himself.

If all the parts are lubricated on time and efficiently, and the teeth are properly and accurately sharpened, then one tire will be enough for approximately one drive sprocket and three or four chains. Moreover, it is advisable to use the chains alternately: today - one, tomorrow - another, and so on in a circle. Then the tire, sprocket and chains themselves will wear out evenly. If you use only one chain, leaving the others “in reserve”, then when their turn comes, they will work with “slippage”, experiencing additional dynamic shocks when moving, and will fail much faster. And all because the drive sprocket wears out according to the configuration of the shanks of the first chain.

Running in a new chain– a sequence of actions recommended by specialists that ensures a long “working” life. The first step is to soak the chain in oil for several hours. The meaning of the event is obvious: the lubricant has time to flow into all the small cracks and reliably “saturate” the parts and rubbing joints. The second step is to install the chain on the tire and briefly “run” it at idle speed. After stopping the engine, you need to check the tension of the chain and, if necessary, tighten it, after cooling it first. And after this, after making several cuts with minimal pressure on the bar and rechecking the chain tension, proceed directly to work.

Chain tension- a very important point. A chain that is not tensioned enough will dangle and may jump off the tire or even burst. Reupholstering also does not bode well - it causes excessive wear and increased load on the engine. In addition, the design of almost all Piltaks means that tensioning the chain also strengthens the tire - in a “relaxed” state, the tire moves freely left and right. To check, it is enough to take the chain at the top of the bar, approximately in the middle or a little closer to the tip, by the tooth and pull it up. With the correct tension, approximately a third of the shank remains in the bar groove. If more, the chain is overtightened; less, the chain is undertightened. In this case, the chain itself should move freely by hand.

Lubrication. We have already mentioned the need for careful lubrication of the chain. But even if the chain and saw are equipped with various lubrication improvement systems, pre-soaking the chain in oil will not harm it, but, on the contrary, will reduce wear caused by friction and ensure a longer service life.

Chain sharpening requires compliance with two rules. Firstly, you should control the sharpness of the corners of the cutting link, the height of the cut limiter and the compliance of these parameters with those initially specified at the factory. And, secondly, clearly control the identity of the dimensions of all cutting links of one chain.

What are the consequences of non-compliance with these principles? So, if the angles on all cutting elements are the same, but incorrect, the user risks either reduced performance or increased vibration and load on the engine. At different angles sharpening, due to uneven load on the cutting elements, vibration will increase and the likelihood of chain breakage will increase. In any case, it will be guaranteed to fail prematurely.

That is why all the teeth of the chain must be sharpened evenly and at the same initially specified angles, which, by the way, were set empirically. Then the chain will last as long as possible and efficiently. It's not too difficult a task special devices for sharpening chains, they allow you to maintain the specified parameters without thinking and without resorting to precise measuring instruments.

Another important point is to monitor the slightest cracks, abrasions and bruises that can lead to a chain break. If the chain breaks during operation, it slides off the bar and onto high speed flies down at the operator’s feet. To avoid accidents, all saws are equipped with a chain catcher in the form of a protrusion. Still, extra attention won't hurt.

Every user will be interested to know that any new chain sealed in a bag is just a stamping, and by sharpening it, you can increase productivity by about a quarter. In addition, with new chains, the height of the cut stop, and in fact the thickness of the resulting chips, is automatically “adjusted” to the minimum value, i.e. for working conditions in “harsh” conditions (winter, frozen and hard wood, etc.). And if sawing is carried out in the summer, and its object is freshly cut pine, there is a reason to adjust the limiter (using a special template) to speed up the work.

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    A few words about sharpening chainsaw chains

    Chainsaw is an indispensable assistant on suburban area, regardless of its size and age of the garden. But it’s not enough just to become the owner of a good tool; you also need to ensure that it works correctly. The most difficult part is sharpening chainsaw chains. This requires studying their structure and the ability to correctly use auxiliary tools.

    Determining when it is time to start the procedure is quite simple. With a well-sharpened tool, it does not require much effort to get it into the wood. As soon as it is necessary to increase the intensity of pressure, the saw chain needs to be sharpened. Excessive wear also affects other important indicators:

    • productivity decreases;
    • tension in the body increases;
    • fuel consumption increases;
    • the load on all parts increases, reducing the service life of the equipment.

    With timely sharpening, less metal is removed, which means the service life of the chain increases.

    The chainsaw will become best assistant on a country plot

    A well-sharpened saw ensures safe and productive work. In this way, it is practically no different from other cutting tools. But the multitude of teeth and the complexity of their structure turn sharpening into a painstaking process. If you have the necessary tools, you can do the work yourself. But before sharpening a chainsaw chain, it is necessary to study the structure of the tool, especially the teeth.

    • The tooth has two edges: top and side. The first is beveled at an angle in the direction of movement of the blade.
    • The cutting link consists of a base, a tooth blade, and a depth stop. The blade, in turn, has a horizontal blade that falls back at an angle and a vertical blade at the end.
    • The difference between the top line of the depth stop and the front line of the back of the tooth determines the thickness of the chip. Usually it is 0.5-0.8 mm (ideally 0.6 mm). With each sharpening, this distance is reduced due to the reduction in the upper edge of the tooth. Therefore, it is necessary to make a control cut after 6-8 sharpenings.
    • It is the angles that provide the cutting properties of the chain.

    The back angle of the top edge is the most important. Its value can be from 50 to 60°.

    The rear angle of the end blade is formed by the blade of the tooth that tapers back. It plays a role in lateral cutting of chips.

    The rake angle is formed by the edge of the end blade with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Depending on the type of chain, its value is 60-85°.

    The chain tooth has a complex structure, but after studying it will be easy to sharpen

    The sharpening angle is determined by measuring at right angles from the top cutting edge to the guide bar.

    Important! The sharpening angles of chainsaw chains can be different, but you need to remember the basic rule. When cutting softwood (unfrozen), productivity is higher, the larger the angle. And you can smooth out vibration when cutting hard wood (or frozen wood) by reducing the sharpening angle. In this case, the lowest value is 25°, and the highest is 35°. Only rip saw chains have a sharpening angle of 10°.

    The file must be held at a certain angle

    The frequency of manipulations depends on the frequency of use of the equipment. When working on a personal yard, the procedure may be needed only after a few months, but when using a chainsaw for professional purposes, three times a day is not enough.

    The working condition of the chain can be determined by its elongation and the type of chips that are formed during sawing. If the saw is well sharpened, identical sawdust of the correct shape comes out. If it is dull, the chips are small and sharp, with big amount wood dust (similar to sawdust produced when using a regular hacksaw).

    Important! The chain dulls faster if it hits the ground. Moreover, one touch is enough.

    If this happened unexpectedly and you don’t know where to sharpen the chainsaw chain, then you’ll have to learn the skills yourself.

    A special kit is sold for sharpening chains at home. It’s worth purchasing it along with a chainsaw so that you don’t have to quit your job and go to the city if the equipment “plows” the land.

    A chain sharpening kit should be purchased at the same time as the chainsaw.

    You can choose the necessary tool yourself. These should be cylindrical files (a holder is attached to it, which will “tell you” which line to direct the tool along) and flat files, a template, and a hook for removing chips. A vice will greatly simplify the process (free up your hands).

    To ensure the first sharpening of a chainsaw chain is successful, the video will visual aid and the best assistant.

    It is more convenient to process the teeth one at a time. First, the cutting edges are sharpened. To do this, a template is applied. Its arrows should point to the direction of movement of the chain. When sharpening, you need to press on the front part, making a slight slope towards the surface of the tire. Movements should be made easily and measuredly, the same number of times for each section. One tooth needs to be sharpened on the left, the other on the right.

    Important! If the length of the teeth differs, it is necessary to grind everything down to the length of the shortest one.

    The position of the cylindrical thin file should be such that its edge protrudes slightly beyond the upper edge of the tooth and is located at a right angle.

    To sharpen the stop tooth, use a thin file. The template should not be neglected. The marks on it will tell you how to properly sharpen the chainsaw chain so that unnecessary waste does not appear and vibration does not increase:

    • S (Soft) determines the angle for working with soft wood;
    • H (Hard) – with hard or frozen rocks.

    As the teeth are sharpened, their internal holes become wider. It is this parameter that does not affect performance, but the bases of the holes should be located horizontally.

    Even if the work is going smoothly and is not as tedious as the first time, you still need to take all measures to do this procedure less often without compromising the normal functioning of the equipment.

    • Break in a new chain before use. To do this, after installation, you should run it for 1 minute at low speeds and the same amount at medium speeds. Such manipulations will ensure that all parts are lubricated with oil and will warm up the sprocket and chain. You can also check the tension. If it is necessary to adjust it, you must wait until the tool has cooled down, and after the necessary actions, warm it up again at idle speed.
    • Do not use a new chain with an old drive sprocket and vice versa. Change the sprocket after grinding two chains.
    • Constantly monitor the chain tension. If stretched, it may slip and injure the operator.
    • The cutting depth limiter must always be adjusted and adjusted. This must be checked every fourth sharpening.
    • Ensure a constant supply of oil good quality and in sufficient quantity for the chain, guide bar and sprocket. They must be lubricated at all times.

    But even a good master cannot always do it manually. If a chainsaw was used without paying attention to sharpening the chain, its cutting edge becomes completely shapeless. Then it is more rational to use the machine. They come in several types.

    With this device you can sharpen one tooth in 3 movements.

    • A manual saw is more of a chainsaw chain sharpener than a machine. His working part resembles a bow saw. Only instead of a cutting blade, a long cylindrical file is inserted. The setup mechanism is quite complex, but it allows you to install everything required parameters. To treat one tooth, 2-3 movements are enough.
    • Electric equipped abrasive disc. The adjustment system allows you to accurately set the chain at a certain angle, bringing the disc to the edge to be sharpened. An addition may be a protective screen that will prevent sparks and chips from getting into your eyes.

    The electric machine ensures high accuracy and fast execution of work

    An automatic chain sharpening machine will do the job best. But there is not always such equipment nearby and an experienced specialist who can quickly carry out the work. The process of mastering the manual method of sharpening will take some time, but the skills will remain “for life”: your personal chainsaw will always be perfect condition, and the neighbors will start asking for help or advice.

    Submersible pumps for water: how to choose and how to install

    Chainsaw chain sharpening angle. How to choose the right one?

    Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: the teeth of a chainsaw eventually wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips that form. With a dull cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly - choose the optimal technology, determine what angle of tooth sharpening should be and how to check it?

    External signs of a dull cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

    Let us recall that a chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of movement of the chain. It has two working edges: a side edge, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and an upper edge, located at a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chips removed. Since the main cutting force falls precisely on the working angle, all subsequent work with the tool will depend on the angle to which the tooth is sharpened.

    Figure 1 – Functional parts of a chainsaw tooth and their appearance

    Before starting long-term work with a chainsaw, it needs to be inspected and test sawed, as a result of which:

    1. Visually determine the presence (or absence) of a conical section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as a radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).

    1. Check the feed force at which the tool operates steadily and produces a quick cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant resistance to the material.
    2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are noticeable, then the teeth need to be sharpened.
    3. Inspect the appearance of the newly cut end (especially if the tool is used for rip sawing). If there are rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

    Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

    The cutting edge of a tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

    In addition, each tool model has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with the power of the chainsaw and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is taken smaller (for example, 0.325 inches). In this case, work productivity will decrease, but the required force will be significantly lower. Upper step values ​​for household chainsaws are adopted extremely rarely, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. The engine power should not exceed 2500 W.

    The thickness of the cutting edge of most chainsaw manufacturers is set to the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely have little functionality: they can only be used for cutting thin branches).

    The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases, a low profile is used for household gasoline tools. When sharpening limiters, this parameter is very important, because as the height of the excess permissible values ​​decreases, the vibration of the tool during operation increases, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get carried away with reducing the height of the stop when sharpening a tooth.

    The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain depends on the main purpose of the tool - for transverse or longitudinal sawing. Since during longitudinal sawing the resistance of wood is always noticeably higher, the edge of the tooth must be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6...12° (for comparison - with a predominance of cross cuts - up to 25...30°).

    Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since an unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping when using a chainsaw. This is especially important for links that are made from structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40ХГС or 35ХГСА.

    Chainsaw chain sharpening template

    When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​of the tooth angles. It is used to control the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions and can vary within 65...80°).

    It is especially important to use a template to estimate the clearance angle of the upper blade. This sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain is otherwise very difficult to determine, and yet it must be maintained within rather limited limits - from 50 to 60°.

    The sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. As the hardness of the wood increases, its value should decrease. In general, the optimal angle value is 10...12° for longitudinal cutting, and 25...30° for cross cutting.

    Figure 3 – Appearance of a template for sharpening chainsaw teeth

    template for sharpening chainsaw teeth

    One round file is not enough. To sharpen the limiter, you will need a flat file, and to clean the work area, you will need a hook that removes the sawdust that forms. There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of direction of movement of the file relative to the chain axis are graduated. As can be seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

    The minimum required set to obtain the correct angle for sharpening a chain manually is shown in Fig. 5.

    Figure 5 – Set of sharpening tools and accessories

    First, the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then the other. Start by lightly pressing the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

    Mechanized sharpening on a machine

    Sharpening on a machine is much more convenient and does not require highly qualified performers. Such machines are electrically driven and equipped with special grinding wheels.

    For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much storage space and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units should operate from a stationary power supply with a voltage of 220 V, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on the circuit.

    When choosing a machine, you need to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:

    • Possibility of processing teeth with different thicknesses of the upper edge and different chain pitches;
    • Possibility of adjusting the sharpening angle, within the limits specified earlier;
    • Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
    • Constant value of the cutting width.

    The design of the machine is simple and includes a drive electric motor, a shaft with a seat for a sharpening disk, a handle with controls, and a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the pressing force on the sharpened element is provided by a spring clamp. Modern models of sharpening machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for self-centering of the product on the machine. For ease of work, there is a measuring scale on the clamp body.

    Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric light bulb, which illuminates the working area, as well as a hydraulic booster, which facilitates sharpening.

    Safety of work is ensured by a folding safety shield.

    Sharpening a rip saw chain using a hand tool

    We resharpen the saw chain to cut wood along the grain. We are preparing the saw set for work with a homemade thickness planer for chain saws.
    Tools: file with guide (file holder, file holder) Champion, supplied with the Champion 254-18 chainsaw.
    The standard sharpening angle of the cutting edge of the tooth for saw chains intended for sawing wood across the grain is 35^. To cut wood along the grain, an angle of 10^ is required. Finding such a chain outside areas associated with logging operations is quite difficult. Chains of this type are mainly sold in coils of several meters, which is quite expensive for non-professional use. In the finished version, for the Champion 254-18 chainsaw, I was able to find only one chain - a chain with Stihl Rapid Duro 3 tipped 0.325-1.5-72 sp.
    For this reason, it was decided to use a common saw chain, sharpened for sawing along the grain. Don’t forget to grind off the cut depth limiter https://youtu.be/k25ztzraRzE.
    Comprehensive information on the selection, care and maintenance of saw chains is here: http://www.stihl.ru/p/media/download/ru-ru/saegekette_schaerfen.pdf
    Information on caring for the saw chain, bar and identifying faults when using chain saws on sawmills from the Logosol company is here: http://www.logosolinfo.ru/cms/downloads/skarutrustning_1-16_web.pdf

    Are you sure you want to report this review?

    In the process of working with a chainsaw, the chain of any, even the highest quality tool, over time loses its original sharpness and needs to be sharpened. By what signs can you understand that the chain of an electric saw or chainsaw has become dull and it’s time to sharpen it?

    Below are the main signs that it is time to sharpen your chain:

    • during operation, the saw loses stability, breaks out of the hands and vibrates strongly;
    • a chainsaw or electric saw produces only small chips and does not produce large chips;
    • the saw part gets stuck in the material, sawing cannot be done efficiently and quickly;
    • deepening a chainsaw into wood does not occur on its own in order to perform longitudinal cut, the tool has to be “sinked” into the material with your hands, applying effort and pressing the canvas;
    • during sawing, a curved cut is formed;
    • the chainsaw heats up quickly and strongly;
    • chain wear occurs much faster;
    • fuel consumption increases.

    If you notice several of the described signs on your home tool, then it's time to sharpen the chain.

    The original chainsaw chain can be sharpened several times, it will retain all its working properties - cutting sharpness, cut quality, rotation speed along the bar.

    Some important advice that will help you avoid sharpening the chain on your chainsaw longer:

    • do not use a new chain with an old sprocket and vice versa;
    • if during operation of the chainsaw you have already sharpened two chains, replace the sprocket with a new one;
    • the chain must be run-in before full operation of the chainsaw with normal load (run-in is done immediately before sawing, 1 minute at low speeds, and then 1 minute at medium speeds);
    • after the new chainsaw chain has cooled, you should check the degree of its tension;
    • always use chain saw lube and high-quality oil;
    • maintain the normal tension of the links, because during operation the chainsaw is often tilted in different sides, which increases the likelihood of the chain slipping off the bar;
    • control the position and direction of the cut depth limiter; after the 3rd or 4th sharpening, check the limiter parameters.

    Characteristics of chain teeth

    The chain teeth have several important parameters. These parameters include:

    • cutting link device (consists of a base attached to the chain, a tooth blade with two cutting edges, a depth limiter that controls how deeply the blade cuts into the tree, an end and top blade), the cutting action is performed not by the chain itself, but by the links, that is , teeth. They move on a chain, as if on a base, on a tree, and the link cuts the tree;
    • The angle of the end blade that allows the chain to cut the wood (it is because of this angle that wood chips are formed when cutting).

    For correct sharpening chain owner needs to know:

    • chain metal type (soft, hard, medium);
    • chain pitch;
    • depth stop distance.

    How to properly sharpen a chain depends on these two parameters. The softer the metal of the chainsaw, the more carefully you need to handle the file when sharpening by hand. The upper edge of the file during sharpening should be located at an angle of 90° in the vertical plane and 30° or 10° in the horizontal plane.

    Video about the angle of sharpening a chainsaw chain

    This video shows how to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain and shows the main parameters of saw chains.

    The following video is from a chainsaw owner on how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands

    Rake angles for different types of chains can range from 60 to 85°. The greater the degree of rear angle of the upper chain blade, the more it will be inclined back, the average value of this angle is from 50° to 60°. For the cutting process, the most important indicator (degree) of the rear angle of the upper blade, and the upper blade itself is very important for high-quality sawing.

    The main condition when sharpening the chain of a chainsaw or electric saw: cutting performance is directly proportional to the sharpening angle, that is, the higher it is, the better the chainsaw will cut the material. The smaller the sharpening angle, the smoother the tool will move, and the less vibration there will be during operation.

    Avoid sharpening angles greater than 35° and less than 25°. In chains for rip sawing, an exception for the sharpening angle is allowed; in these chains, the sharpening angle can be 10°.

    Sets of necessary tools, templates and accessories for sharpening chains

    The most popular chain sharpening tools:

    • round file;
    • flat file;
    • holder;
    • template for depth gauge;
    • hook for removing sawdust.

    Files for sharpening Machine for sharpening chainsaw chains
    Template for controlling the sharpening angle

    The sizes of files for sharpening chainsaw chains vary, but in ordinary life for household needs and home use for sharpening chains with pitches of ¼, 0.325″, 3/8″ and 0.404″, files with diameters 4.0 are recommended; 4.8; 5.2 and 5.5 mm. For some chains, cylindrical needle files with a diameter of 3.2 mm are used. For manual sharpening with your own hands ideal option there will be a file 200 mm long with a diameter of up to 5 mm.

    Some manufacturers sell these tools as sharpening sets, or you can purchase them separately. A round file is one of the most popular tools, with the help of which many owners sharpen a chain no worse than on machines. Each set is designed for a specific chain pitch and size. To choose a chain sharpening kit, you need to know these two parameters.

    Stihl file holder

    Markings are applied to the holder - they help the chainsaw owner determine the correct angle position for sharpening the chain. The holder is installed simultaneously on the upper part of the stop and the tooth, and the round file is placed under it immediately next to the blade. The holder holds the file at the required height; according to the standards, it should rise 1/5 above the blade.

    To sharpen a chainsaw chain at home, the bar is secured with a vice or clamp. It is important to keep the tool still while sharpening. The holder is placed on the marking, and then the file is moved along the chain away from you 2-3 times. Each tooth is treated the same way. From time to time, the file is turned to the other side so that it does not grind unevenly.

    For convenience, the teeth are sharpened evenly on one side, after which the saw is turned over and aligned on the other side.

    Sharpening begins with the smallest tooth, since the length of the remaining teeth must coincide with it. When the blades are sharpened, the stops are processed. Place the template from the kit on the chain so that the stop fits into the hole, and grind off all protruding edges with a flat file from the sharpening kit.

    Other chain sharpening devices, sharpening tools and devices:

    • roller sharpening device;
    • files from various companies (round, flat);
    • holders with a file;
    • handles and guides for files;
    • plastic cases, containers for storing tools;
    • needle file - a small file, an oblong-shaped device with a diamond cut, most often needle files are used for filing very small parts, are often sold in sets.

    Popular models of inexpensive sharpening machines

    Popular manufacturers of inexpensive chain sharpening machines: Dnipro, Einhell, Sadko, Vitals, Forte, Intertool, Eltos, Zenit, Grand, Stern, Temp.

    Among the variety of models, each owner of a chainsaw or electric saw can choose the tool that suits him. Below is a rating of the best inexpensive machines for sharpening chainsaw chains; these machines have received many complimentary reviews from owners. How much will it cost this device? The cost of machines in this category is low to medium. There are many models in this price range that do an excellent job of sharpening chains for electric and gasoline saws.

    We offer you a short rating of machines for sharpening chainsaw chains from the inexpensive category:

    1. Professional chain sharpening machine Scheppach Woodster CS 03, manufacturer Germany, 220 Volt, power 180 W, maximum grinding wheel diameter 100 mm, wheel thickness 3.2 mm, disc seat size 10 mm, machine weight 3 kg, 1 year warranty, price 1125 UAH
    2. Household chain sharpening machine Dnipro-M NSM-550 (budget-type electric sharpener), manufacturer Ukraine, power 550 W, grinding wheel diameter 108 mm, wheel thickness 3.2 mm, wheel seat size 23 mm, weight 2 kg, 3-year warranty, price 740 UAH.
    3. Professional sharpening machine Vitals Professional ZKA8511s, manufacturer Latvia, power 85 W, grinding wheel diameter 104 mm, wheel thickness 3.2 mm, grinding wheel seat size 22.2 mm, weight 2.6 kg, 1.5 year warranty, price 1093 UAH .
    4. Machine for sharpening chainsaw chains Oregon 106550, device power 85 W, USA manufacturer, grinding disc diameter 105 mm, disc seat size 22.3 mm, disc thickness 3-4.5 mm, weight 2 kg, device price 7,100 UAH. The most expensive of these devices, received many good reviews, a popular model in Russia and Ukraine.

    Scheppach power tool sharpening

    All models described are suitable for sharpening chains on electric saws and chainsaws. To place the machine, a small workplace is required: a stable table and a power source to connect the device to the network.

    Oregon chainsaw chain sharpening machine - video with an overview of the operation of the device. The Oregon device is suitable for sharpening 91VX type chains; 91VPX with pitch 325″ and 3/8″; LPX in increments of 325″ and 3/8″; BPX in 3/8″ increments, LGX.

    Video about the Dnipro-M NSM-550 machine

    Types of sharpening chainsaw chains and proper work with them

    Manual sharpening with a file at home

    Manual sharpening is considered the most economical, budget-friendly, for this you only need a file, which the owner has in every home; if he doesn’t have one, it is inexpensive and is sold at any construction market or in a building supply and tool store. For a chain size of 1.3 mm you will need a file with a diameter of 4 mm, for a chain size of 1.6 mm you will need a file with a diameter of 5.2 mm.

    A flat file can be used for the tooth stops. The sharpening template is attached to the element being ground.

    Steps for manually sharpening a chainsaw chain at home:

    • secure the chain (bar) so that it is completely motionless;
    • do not change the sharpening angle during the entire sharpening;
    • make 2-3 forward movements with the file using light pressure;
    • turn the file in different directions;
    • Sharpen according to the size of the smallest tooth.

    How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file with your own hands - about this video below:

    Professional sharpening on a machine

    Sharpening on the machine can be done manual machine or a professional machine.

    Professional machines operate from the network. The principle of sharpening is almost the same as with manual sharpening:

    • The chainsaw chain is fixed in the guides;
    • Next, adjust the width of the groove and select the angle;
    • lower the sharpening disk;
    • The chain is moved along the holder, clamped, and each tooth is processed.

    The sharpening element in professional machines is an emery stone. A good automatic machine is not cheap, because professional equipment for sharpening, it is mainly found in services and workshops. Buy this for home use not rational.

    Video on how to sharpen a chainsaw chain on a machine

    Sharpening with a grinder or grinder

    The process of sharpening a chainsaw chain grinder or a grinder is done using a special attachment, the same grinding disc that is used as an attachment in professional machines. Of all the turning methods, the grinder method is the simplest, however, it requires some skills.

    For sharpening you will need a grinder and a 2.5 mm thick metal disc. You need to sharpen the chain at minimum speed, turning each tooth on the chain one by one. When using an angle grinder, wear a protective plastic mask or goggles, as well as gloves.

    Video on how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a grinder

    Sharpening as a business service - what is needed for this

    To provide mass sharpening services, that is, to create a business in this direction, a lot of equipment and conditions are required. The following are the basic materials, equipment and consumables that will be required to create a mini-workshop:

    • a heated room with electricity supply, space for a machine, chair, shelving (minimum area 2 square meters, mains voltage 220 Volts);
    • machines with washers for various disks (electric sharpener);
    • grinding discs, including diamond ones;
    • grinding wheel;
    • mounts for tools such as skates, scissors, chainsaws;
    • whetstone - a die for manual sharpening;
    • hammers;
    • small tools (hacksaws, screwdrivers, wrenches, etc.);
    • vice;
    • spindle oil;
    • lamps;
    • punch;
    • storage boxes, baskets, furniture.

    Andrey, Melitopol:

    “I noticed that the chain boxes indicate different sharpening angles; they differ for different chains. The factory angle, for example, is more than 25 degrees, everyone writes that it is no less than 35, but in order to cut pine well, I set the angle to 40 or 45 degrees. Some machines don't move the chain back and forth, so they don't stand near the factory sharpening at all! The thickness of the grinding wheel is also selected individually, and the shape of its edge must be constantly monitored.”

    Valentin, Dnepr:

    “My opinion, as a master, is that file sharpening is the best in the world. Machines are, of course, good, but still listen to the advice of an expert; I’ve been working with chains for ten years, no less. The machine will only give you 30 degrees horizontally and 45 degrees vertically of sharpening, and the file up to 10 degrees horizontally. The vertical of the file in degrees is the same, but the shape of the cutting edge does not change, and the working blade becomes wider. No other attachment will do this! Second: the machine always overheats, which is bad for steel, but the file does not. Third: the file spares the teeth; if you use it, the chain will last about six sharpenings, two longer than after the machine.

    The main disadvantage of the work is that in order to work with a needle file, you need to train! Practice and only practice."

    Video about sharpening chainsaw chains



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