Correctly cut rose flowers. Seasonal pruning of garden roses: what to consider

The magnificent flowering of the rose has its time, after which the shoots are crowned with fruits in the spirit of a rose hip. If you don’t interfere with the natural course of things, the rose bushes will remain there until autumn. But it’s worth shortening the flower shoots and, lo and behold, after some time they grow back. A little later, luxurious flowers appear on them again, taking us back to the beginning of summer.

Why prune roses after flowering?

After the rose blooms, it is necessary to trim, or rather, shorten the shoot on which there was a flower or a flower cluster. As a result, the plant will switch from the fruit formation program to the regeneration program. “Spent” inflorescences left on the bush look ugly, so they are cut off before mid-July and early August.

Rose fruits are left for the winter, but in summer it is better to cut them off - they look too sloppy

From a dormant bud located at the base of the leaf, a new flowering shoot will begin to grow. A second, but artificially induced, wave of flowering will begin. The cut is made above the outer bud. Sometimes they talk about a cut above a leaf - this is the same thing as above a bud, because it is located at the base of the leaf. The cut location should be approximately 5 mm above the bud (or leaf petiole).

A cut above the lateral outer bud prevents thickening of the bush

This technique improves ventilation of the bush and prevents fungal diseases. The bush becomes more luxuriant, the shoots do not get tangled, the flowers do not rub against each other and the petals do not fly off prematurely.

Thickening shoots will grow from the lateral internal buds, directed into the bush

Blind shoots that for some reason do not have a growth bud at the end are also shortened.

In this blind shoot, the growth bud is damaged by the pest, so this shoot has no growth prospects

They grow to a certain length and stop developing. Such branches are shortened above the first outer lateral bud located below.

The blind shoot is cut off above the first developed lateral bud

To identify blind shoots, the bush is carefully sorted branch by branch. On some types of roses, the terminal buds are large, and on others they are small, so they may not be immediately noticeable.

These shoots have apical buds

There are several types of roses, differing in the type of flowering. Depending on this, the shoot is shortened to different heights.

Hybrid tea roses

This species is characterized by long stems, usually ending in one flower (although there are varieties with racemes). There are no side branches on the shoots.

Tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned above the 3rd or 4th leaf from the bottom.

The location of the cut is determined by moving upward from the base of the shoot - the cut is made above the 3rd or 4th leaf.

Although hybrid tea roses and floribundas are pruned low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom

Floribundas bloom like hybrid teas, but not with one flower, but with a brush. Both types are cut according to the same pattern.

The floribunda rose is also pruned low.

Video: pruning hybrid tea roses

Features of pruning climbing roses

Squad climbing roses consists of two main types - ramblers and climbers, or climbers. Without getting into the jungle of classification of both, let’s look at typical pruning for each species.

Roses Rambler

In climbing roses of the Rambler type, the first flowers open on last year's side shoots, after which the shoots take over the baton current year. Thus, flowering is continuous.

Ramblers are great for decorating walls at home

Pruning is done only on last year's shoots: the cut is made above 5–6 leaves below the dry inflorescence. The shoots of the current year are left to bloom, form fruits, in a word, ripen. To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of the young shoot can be pinched 5–7 cm.

Video: pruning a climbing rose rambler

Climbers

Climber roses have shoots 3 m or more long, covered with large single flowers or flower clusters along the entire length.

Excellent climbers - neither a word nor a pen can describe them

Summer pruning involves shortening the main shoot by 1/3 of its length, which promotes branching and re-flowering. Dry inflorescences are removed from the remaining shoot.

Climbing rose shoots are shortened and freed from dried flowers

Proper completion of pruning - fertilizing

After pruning, the rose needs to be fed. To do this, use the following options:

  • special fertilizer in accordance with the instructions;
  • herbal infusion - 1–2 liters of infusion per 10 liters of water;
  • fermented chicken manure or cow, horse manure - 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

Timing for pruning

Most roses bloom in June. Flower growers have enough time for pruning with all the ensuing circumstances. But if the first flowering due to some circumstances - weather, pests, diseases - has moved to the second half of summer, it is not advisable to carry out summer pruning. Because the plant does not have enough time for new flower shoots to mature.

The first snow did not harm the roses, but the frost would have killed both the flowers and the unripe shoots

If the region experiences early first frosts, young shoots will be the first to be affected. Therefore, roses that bloom at the wrong time are not pruned. Fruits form on them and in this form the bush overwinters.

My mistakes and achievements

I have been growing eight varieties of roses for a long time, seven of which are multi-colored and one climbing. The names of the varieties have been forgotten, and I confess that I only recently learned what climbers or floribundas are. For a long time I did the pruning on a whim; it’s surprising that all my “girls” are still alive and blooming beautifully. Main mistake consisted of plucking off spent flowers. After this, I was tormented by the question, why do the remains of the pedicels turn black, turning into something gangrenous?

Leaving the pedicels was a big mistake

I didn’t always pay attention to where the shoot was cut - above the bud or where it was convenient to reach. New shoots, of course, grew, but the protruding stump looked sad.

The shoot was cut at a random location between the buds, but not above the bud

Incorrect pruning (not pinching) is not so disastrous; new flowering shoots will grow. But it’s still sweeter to the heart when the pruning is done correctly. The rose bush seems to be filled with gratitude, and the twig, topped with a sharp bud, is in a hurry to grow and express its gratitude with a fragrant flower.

Either she guessed right, or she became smarter, but the pruning was done correctly

Summer pruning of a rose after flowering will be the highest manifestation of your love for it. The response will not take long, and the charming flowers will bloom again in your garden.

To care for roses you will need good pruner and the desire to make your site more beautiful. How to prune roses correctly? When is roses pruned in summer? Constantly! As soon as you notice that the flower begins to lose its attractiveness, it should be removed.

Usually, novice rose lovers make the same mistake - they cut only the flower.

Some dare to cut a little lower, but this is also wrong. In the first case, you will not achieve repeated flowering; in the second, you will get a bush that is too tall.

How to prune roses in summer

The general rules are:

  • We cut above the first well-defined five-leaf clover. If you look at the bush, you will see that the leaves under the flower consist of three leaves, and these are the ones that need to be cut off.
  • Roses are pruned above the first well-developed bud. You will see it in the axil of the leaf. For correct formation bush, it should be directed outward. You need to cut half a centimeter above the bud.
  • Blind shoots are also pruned. They thicken the bush, deplete it and do not bloom. The blind shoot is usually thin and short and does not have a bud. How to prune roses correctly? If the stem is strong, then it is cut so that 2-3 cinquefoils remain below the cut.
  • When pruning, do not forget about the shoots. It can be seen by its color (pale green).
  • The growth grows from the roots of the rose; it must be removed, otherwise the noble flower will turn into a rose hip.

The shoots must be trimmed in a timely manner, that is, when it just begins to emerge from the ground. How to prune roses, particularly shoots? Root growth cut off at the very base.


Summer pruning of roses is carried out only in dry weather.

Dampness can cause fungal diseases, to which roses are already susceptible.

Of course, it is not always possible to predict whether it will rain, so roses should be pruned at an angle. In case of bad weather, water will flow down the oblique cut.

Timely summer pruning of roses is not only the beauty of your rose garden. This is one of the main points of caring for roses. Proper pruning of roses is very important. This operation is of the same importance as planting roses correctly. By leaving withered buds, you weaken the plant, since it spends a lot of energy to ripen the seeds, and winter is ahead. A weakened bush may not survive in harsh conditions. For the same reason, regular summer pruning is stopped at the beginning of autumn, since the new shoot will not have time to ripen and will be the first to suffer from frost.

Pruning roses after flowering in summer

Throughout the year, most rose bushes need repeated pruning: in spring, summer and autumn. Conventionally, the summer procedure is divided into sanitary (formative, health-improving) and pruning after flowering. Let's take a closer look at how to properly prune roses after flowering, and what are needed for this. garden tools.

Basic rules for pruning roses after flowering

Pruning roses after flowering in summer is carried out as follows:

  • allows the plant not to waste energy on formation seed material;
  • improves decorative look culture;
  • prevents the occurrence of fungal diseases;
  • stimulates growth and appearance more buds;
  • rejuvenates the plant.

All diseased, weak and dead shoots must be removed. They are removed to ground level. Thinning is carried out on shoots growing inside the bush. Summer pruning of roses after flowering prevents thickening and promotes free circulation fresh air. This prevents the occurrence powdery mildew, rust and black spot.

Branches with a diameter thinner than a pencil are also pruned so that the plant does not waste energy on them. Before winter they will not have time to become strong enough and will freeze out.

Pruning is carried out in dry weather with pruning shears or a knife to the white core of the branches; if the stem is thicker than 2 cm, then use a garden saw. The instrument is used sharp and clean, since a dull and dirty one can cause infection.

Summer pruning of roses is carried out after the first flowering, approximately 8 mm above the outer growth buds - “eyes”. In this way, growth and further flowering can be stimulated. These buds are the buds of roses; they are located in the leaf axils and are clearly visible after the leaves fall.

We don’t pinch the rose, we just cut it!

Removal faded flower pinching the peduncle, like a daffodil or tulip, will weaken the shoot. This happens because after pinching the shoot begins to stretch and becomes more brittle. This also leads to the rapid fall of the flower.

The cut is made smooth, without jagged edges, with an inclination up to 0.5 cm towards the bud. If pruning of roses is done incorrectly, the plant may die. Above the bud, the stem dries out and dies; below, damage to the bud and infection are possible. If the incision is made at an incorrect angle, the bud begins to retain moisture and gradually rots. The fresh cut is covered with garden varnish.

Wild growth that appears in grafted roses below the grafting site and at the root part is also subject to pruning. Such processes are removed to the base immediately after detection. They weaken the graft cultivated plant, differ from it small leaves and rough stem.

Pruning wild growth cannot be neglected!

Just as when growing wild varieties of roses next to cultivated ones, you should not allow wild shoots that develop on the mother part of the bush to develop before the grafting site. It’s not just about unnecessary consumers of moisture and minerals, but about resistance to diseases and pests. Uncultivated varieties are much more susceptible to damage by fungi and viruses, but if wild shoots become diseased, the rest will also become ill.

If nut-like galls are found on branches, the stems with them must be cut off. The gall moth larvae develop in the galls and feed on the juices of the plant, depleting it.

If the summer pruning of roses is carried out correctly, and the rose does not bloom, then the plant is checked for the presence of blind shoots with underdeveloped buds, which need to be cut off along with the leaves. Removed branches are burned to prevent diseases.

What are blind shoots and the reasons for their appearance

Blind shoots are those on which there is no flowering due to poor development of the buds for various reasons, since the growth eye is not visible on such buds. They appear very often during overfeeding, when the rose drives out thick and powerful shoots that do not bloom. Also, the cause of blindness may be insufficient lighting or the unfortunate proximity of others. ornamental shrubs.

How to prune roses after flowering in summer video

Rose pruning levels

Gardeners distinguish between short (heavy), moderate (medium) and light (high) pruning. To understand how to prune a rose after flowering, you need to focus on its size, age, growth rate and variety.

Heavy pruning is carried out dense bushes on 3-4 growing buds from the base of the stem. The remaining stems should not exceed a height of 15 cm. Short pruning is carried out on newly planted rose bushes, but not on adult roses (with the exception of weak ones). hybrid tea varieties).

With moderate pruning, the stems are cut off at the 5-7th eye, and the shoots are cut at half their height. This type of pruning of roses after the first flowering is suitable for all varieties and is optimal for stimulating further growth and flowering.

Light pruning consists of shortening the stems slightly at 8-12 buds by 2/3 of the height. It is not recommended to repeat the procedure over several years, as this contributes to thickening, poor flowering and stretching of the stems.

Experienced gardeners They use complex pruning, which includes all types. By the end of summer heavy pruning not carried out so as not to stimulate the growth of young shoots of roses before winter.

Preparing and pruning roses for the winter video

Schemes for pruning roses of various varietal groups

Summer pruning of roses large-flowered varieties implies a cut of a flower with a stem containing at least one quintunate (having five stipules) leaf.

Pruning multifloral roses (floribunda, scrub, climbing climbers) comes down to removing the entire inflorescence above the first leaf immediately after wilting.

When pruning roses of standard varieties in summer, control the direction of shoot growth, directing the largest growth bud inward, as when pruning in spring.

Pruning climbing roses involves removing the tassels down to the first leaf. This stimulates branching and early flowering next year.

Pruning climbing roses after flowering in summer video

Bottom line

Compliance with all rules summer pruning roses allows you to stimulate abundant and colorful flowering for many years. Also regular care and removing excess growth from roses will help protect them from pests and diseases.

Flower growers often argue about the color consistency of nearby flowers, including roses. Some people believe that an orange rose like Domstadt Fulda should not be planted next to a dazzling pink rose like Electron. Everything is not so simple, because they will encounter each other in flowering only once per season. After a wave of different times spring bloom they will have different repetition cycles (from 28 to 60 days).

It is useful to know that the fewer petals in a rose flower and the shorter their bloom, the faster they bloom again.

A rose with a single flower on a stem will bloom again before the one that forms inflorescences. In fact, when some roses single flowers approach the third cycle, the rose with inflorescences blooms only for the second time. Whether to plant roses with flowers of sharply contrasting colors next to each other depends on the choice of the rose grower - there are simply no stable criteria.

For different regions The timing of when to cut roses is ambiguous. In purchased in flower shop A rose usually has 30 to 40 petals. It is with this number of petals that the flower has the most balanced shape, which is easily preserved for a long time. Of course, roses with a small number of petals are also beautiful when cut.
It is only important to follow the rule: the fewer petals a rose has, the earlier it should be cut. When to cut different varieties of roses:

  • Non-double roses, such as Sally Holmes, should be cut back as soon as the sepals open.
  • It is recommended to cut hybrid tea roses when the bud has bloomed by one third.
  • It is better to give densely double roses () time to bloom well on the bush. Austin's company is now developing special cut varieties of roses. Every year, heavily double roses are increasingly used when composing wedding bouquets and flower arrangements.

When arranging a flower bed with roses intended for cutting, it is important to take care of the safety of the plants. You should not deprive a rose of most of its foliage - this causes potentially irreparable damage to it.

When to prune roses correctly

Wise gardeners never cut off more than a third of the flowers blooming on a bush at a time. To get special large flowers on a hybrid tea rose, you need to cut off all the lateral buds that form around the apical bud on each of the stems. While the buds are small, they are easy to pinch off with your fingers. Using pruning shears for this delicate procedure can easily damage the flower.

Roses should be cut early in the morning or late in the evening; this is done so that the cut roses last a long time. At this time, the sugar and water content in the flowers is maximum, so the roses will not wither longer. The stem is cut from the bush with sharp pruning shears, then the stem is cut again under water so that air bubbles do not rise up, thereby accelerating the withering of the flower. When cutting stems of the required length, you cannot deprive the bush of more than half of its foliage at a time, because the longer the cut stem, the more time and effort the rose will need to produce new flower. A cut created just above the outward-facing eye helps maintain the shape of the bush.

A cut rose flower is gorgeous without a stem when placed in a bowl of water. For a single flower, a transparent glass or crystal vessel with a diameter of about 15 cm is suitable. larger size will include several different flowers, selected by size and color.

How to preserve a rose if it has a long stem?

First, immerse the stem up to the flower in water at a temperature of about +40°C, and then you need to keep it for several hours in a cool place at a temperature of about +10°C. Roses cut in advance for a special event or celebration should be stored in a cool, dark place. To keep the rose fresh in the refrigerator, place it in plastic bag, and roses must be placed there dry, as spotting will appear on wet flowers. It is important to consider that apples emit gas, which causes roses to bloom faster, so keeping them together in the refrigerator is not recommended. Most roses will keep in the refrigerator for three days with little loss of petal density.

Preparations that help maintain the freshness of cut flowers are also useful for roses; Not large number sugar and aspirin also work well. For 1 liter of water, approximately 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1 aspirin tablet are required.

It is advisable to change the water in the vessel every day and trim the stems under water, which significantly extends the life of any cut flowers, including roses.

By arranging bouquets of roses, you can emphasize their splendor successful combination with other colors. Airy gypsophila with small delicate light flowers will highlight the perfect shape hybrid tea roses. Slender inflorescences of delphinium, especially blue and lilac in color, look very impressive when combined with deep shades. For arranging centifolia roses, bright green graceful asparagus is suitable, focusing attention on their huge dazzling flowers.

Captivating beauty miniature roses, most of which are unscented, will enhance the fragrance of a humble lavender added to a bouquet. In a word, all the most interesting bouquets are obtained from correctly selected in color and shape different types roses



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