Metallic finish. Spectacular paintwork: metallic

CARS CLUB

THE LEGEND OF METALLICA

Take care of the “native” enamel - paint it

car just like it was at the factory,

it won't be cheap...

Anton Utkin

“I’ll buy a VAZ from 1995, undamaged, unpainted...” After reading such an advertisement, the uninitiated may think that we are talking about a car that for some reason came off the assembly line with an unpainted body...

Everything, as we know, is much simpler: the buyer wants a car with completely preserved factory enamel - he is not interested in one that has already been in the paint shop of a car service center. Indeed, the experience of several generations of car owners has taught many that repairs will not last long. Even if it's the most best painter will paint your straightened or welded wing “as you would yourself”, having carefully degreased, primed and dried, after two “salty” winters it will still bloom with spiders of corrosion.

In factories, at the same VAZ, and recently at GAZ (“Sables” and “Gazelles”) the paint is quite tolerable. Branded equipment and Western technologies are effective even with cheap domestic materials - the coating is enough for five years. And here's what's next...

In Fig. Figure 1 shows the full cycle of operation of the painting line. Check it out and it will become obvious that even in a well-equipped car service center the most important stages of body preparation cannot be reproduced. Cataphoresis treatment alone with complete immersion of the body in the bath provides a very durable layer of soil - moisture, which over time penetrates under the enamel through cracks and chips, cannot reach the metal.

And now about something else. Speaking about painting, we can’t help but talk about the materials themselves. For forty years now, our auto industry has been using mainly ML series (melamine alkyd) enamels, which form a fragile, inelastic film. In the West, leading car factories use more durable polyester and polyacrylic enamels. For example, the German concern Herberts, like other manufacturers, supplies conveyors with mainly water-based materials, without organic solvents - evaporating hundreds of tons of ethyl cellosolve and cyclohexanone into the atmosphere, as we do here, is considered barbaric in Europe - ecology is paramount.

The color and shade of enamel (there are about 45 thousand in total) depend on the combination of various pigments in it - powders of mineral or organic origin. Thus, titanium dioxide (TiO2) gives White color, carbon black (C) - black, etc. In developed countries, toxic pigments are prohibited. For example, instead of yellow lead chromate (PbCrO4), the same Herberts long ago selected a safe substitute.

The pigments used are much smaller than the shades of enamels, since by mixing them according to the chromatic circle (Fig. 2), you can get any color in the spectrum. The colors located opposite in the circle are antagonists; they destroy each other in a mixture of enamels. But all these are ordinary or, as they are called, single-color enamels. “Metallics” are no less common on cars - so we’ll talk about them in more detail.

For the first time, we saw enamel containing metal particles not on cars - in those years, Pobeda and Volga cars were painted simply - black, white, beige... But the bicycle frames of the Kharkov plant sparkled with so-called glaze enamels - aluminum flakes reflected light from the depths of the varnish film. “Metallics” of the first generations were single-layer (Fig. 3, a) - the enamel film contained aluminum particles over the entire thickness of 50 microns. IN last years“metallic” is applied in two layers: 20 microns of base with aluminum particles and another 50 microns of transparent varnish (Fig. 3, b). A two-layer coating is not only more impressive - it is stronger and more durable because it reflects better ultra-violet rays sun - enamel ages more slowly.

The latest achievement is enamels with a mother-of-pearl effect. Their main component- mica particles. This is a natural mineral - potassium aluminum silicate, the ground crystals of which form the thinnest transparent plates. Covering them by special technology metal oxides, chemists obtain particles that change color depending on the viewing angle. Mother-of-pearl enamel has at least two layers - a base with mica and colorless varnish, and sometimes even three - a white or colored base, mica and varnish. The deep tints and play of colors captivate the eye - the coating rivals the beauty of natural pearls, especially since the developer can program all the shades, intensity of reflection and refraction of light rays by selecting the composition of the enamel and the coloring mode.

In Fig. 4 shows the incidence and reflection of light rays in coatings different types. Thus, in a film of ordinary single-color enamel (a), light passes to a depth of about 25 microns, and the angle of incidence equal to angle reflections. In “metallics” and “mother of pearls” the angles change. In the single-layer coating (b) there are quite a lot of aluminum flakes located close to the surface and parallel to it, so the lower tone, visible from the side, turns out to be dark, and the upper one, visible at a right angle, is light. In a two-layer “metallic” (c) it’s the other way around: a dark top tone and a light bottom tone. In enamel with a mother-of-pearl effect (d), light is partially reflected by mica plates, partially passes through them, reflecting from the substrate at different angles, so we see a mixture of multi-colored rays.

In short, it’s not so easy to create a signature paint. Knowing this, it’s easy to understand why garage artisans who tried to make “metallic” from a mixture of not scaly, but dusty aluminum (“serebryanka”) and ordinary “synthetics” ended up with something similar to “hammer” enamel for fireproof cabinets... And it’s completely unrealistic to count on durable coating, making do with a purchased can of cheap one-component enamel.

Professional repair materials necessarily two-component: both the enamel and the clear varnish are accompanied by an appropriate hardener, which allows acrylic resins to dry to high hardness at temperatures from 20 to 60 ° C. Of course, these are significantly more expensive than those intended for factories - only one-component ones are supplied there, since the bare body without fusible plastic parts and sensitive electronics is dried at 140 ° C. Attempts to hastily, without disassembling, paint a modern foreign car (or at least part of it) with ML-12 “synthetics”, followed by high-temperature drying, will most likely end in failure - the interior will become creaky, like on the Samara, and fatal failures of the fuel injection system will force you to sell the car for parts...

It is possible to paint a damaged or rusted car no worse than at the factory, but not everyone can afford it. For example, a well-equipped service center that uses branded two-component materials will charge about $120 for painting the wing of a VAZ 2110, up to $1,500 for the entire “ten,” and up to $3,000 for, say, a Mercedes 124. Therefore, take care of the body while it is fresh: wash off the salt, paint over chipped enamel in a timely manner, rub the surface with wax and Teflon polishes - you will save a penny ruble...

Rice. 1. Stages of body processing on the painting line.

Rice. 2. Chromatic circle.

Rice. 3. Arrangement of flat aluminum particles in the metallic film: a - single-layer;

b - two-layer

Rice. 4. A simplified diagram of the reflection of light rays in different types of coatings: a - single-color enamel; b - single-layer “metallic”; c - two-layer “metallic”; d - three-layer “mother of pearl”.

The quality of paint work has a huge impact on appearance any car. The validity of this statement is especially confirmed by the metallic paint job of the car. The use of this paint makes almost all types of external body defects visible. Is it possible to produce high-quality?

The technology of painting a car with metallic requires consistent and rigorous implementation of each stage. Otherwise, you risk wasting not only your time, but also your money. This article will focus on detailed description the main stages of applying metallic paint to a car body in a garage.

Metallic paint

This is what a metallic painted car looks like. Click on photo to enlarge.

Metallic paint is available in three varieties:

• Single layer.
• Double layer.
• Three-layer.

Single-layer paint is used quite rarely, since it high-quality application necessary high level qualifications and certain skills. The use of three-layer paint allows you to create complex effects (white mother-of-pearl, chameleon, etc.). This type of coating is characterized by a color change depending on the viewing angle. The technology in this case involves applying transparent mother-of-pearl to a base made with primer-toner.

Two-layer paint has become most widespread and popular. Painting a car metallic using this method is quite simple and involves a step-by-step application of base and varnish. The paint must be applied to a surface previously treated with primer. Polishing the surface makes it easy to eliminate possible defects.

The main stages of painting with two-layer paint

Let's focus on the most popular and widespread option, which involves the use of two-layer paint. Painting a car metallic, done using this paint yourself, consists of the following main steps:

• Preparatory work.
• Base painting.
• Applying varnish.

Let's look at the features of each stage.

Preparatory work

Preparation of car parts to be painted. Click on photo to enlarge.

Painting any car metallic includes a whole range of preparatory measures, the main of which are putty and body primer. When choosing the color of putty, you need to focus on future color car (they must match). Parts of the body to which paint will be applied must first be dismantled or covered with adhesive (painting) paper.

Peculiarities preparatory stage Metallic painting includes mandatory degreasing and blowing of all painted elements. First you need to blow out the entire car body, taking into account hard to reach places. Only after this can you begin the process of degreasing the surface. For degreasing you will need wipes and anti-silicone liquid. After completing the degreasing process, the body should be wiped dry with a clean cloth and blown off again.

High-quality airflow and degreasing have a direct impact on the final result. The fact is that the result of insufficient degreasing can be poor adhesion of the paint and the body surface, and the particles remaining after poor-quality blowing will be noticeable on the body after painting is completed. The absence of small dust particles can be guaranteed by the use of special dust collection wipes.

Metallic car painting should begin immediately after completion preparatory work. This requirement reduces the likelihood of re-contamination of the body. You should also not touch the degreased car body with greasy or dirty hands.

Base painting

Applying a base coat to a car, click on photo to enlarge.

Painting your car metallic necessarily includes applying a base coat of paint, which should be done after the surface has been fully prepared. The paint used for these purposes must be diluted with a solvent. When selecting a solvent, such nuances as the temperature of the painting chamber and the brand of paint are taken into account.

Do-it-yourself metallic base painting involves applying two layers: a drier one and a wetter one. The first layer (drier) should not contain smudges, and the presence of streaks and spots is allowed. You can begin applying the second layer only after the first layer has dried and acquired a matte tint. A matte shade indicates that the solvent has evaporated from the surface of the element being painted.

Each subsequent layer of paint can be applied only after the previous one has completely dried. Drying time ranges from 10 to 30 minutes using the natural drying method. The specific time will be indicated in the manufacturer's instructions for the specific type of paint. If it is necessary to apply a third layer (if the paint is not too opaque), it is recommended to apply the second layer wet. The last layer is applied from a greater distance from the surface to be painted than the previous ones. After applying the last layer, it is necessary to ensure drying at a temperature of about +20°C for half an hour.

Painting a car metallic, done in a garage with your own hands, should not involve the use of air blowing to force dry the surface. IN in this case The drying process will, of course, speed up significantly. However, you need to be prepared for the fact that small particles of metal that create the metallic effect will not sink correctly into the base layer.

Varnish coating

We apply varnish. Click on photo to enlarge.

Varnish, like paint, should be diluted with a solvent before application in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer's instructions. Metallic car painting involves applying 2-3 layers of varnish. The main feature is that each subsequent layer should be applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

To check completeness of drying, some craftsmen use a fairly simple method - touching the surface with a finger (in an inconspicuous place). The absence of traces of varnish on the finger indicates complete drying. Metallic painting does not accept haste and the formation of smudges, to remove which sometimes you have to remove an entire layer.

Metallic painting is sometimes associated with the appearance of a pebbled leather effect on the surface of the body. This problem is not critical and can be easily eliminated by polishing or sanding the varnish layer. You can begin to get rid of the effect of shagreen leather only after the varnish has completely dried.

Conclusion

Painting a car yourself in a garage with a metallic paint is a more complex and time-consuming process than painting with ordinary enamel. However, the painting technology does not contain operations that are very difficult for most car enthusiasts. Successful and high-quality metallic painting of your car is possible only if you strictly follow the sequence of actions described in this article.

Nowadays, almost all cars are painted with automotive paint called metallic. Previously, these were mainly acrylic single-layer coatings. Although at the moment they are also used, but more in other areas than in the automotive industry. Consequently, newbies have a lot of questions about metallic painting the body of their car. In this article I will try to describe in an extremely clear and understandable manner the entire technology of painting with metallics, various nuances which must be taken into account when performing work.

Before we begin the technological process, let's look at what metallic car base paint is.

Automotive base enamel, what's what.

Metallic paint is a one-component composition that does not require the addition of a special hardener. And diluted with a special one. They got their name from the aluminum powder they contain. These small particles reflect light and create different colors. At different viewing angles, color, hue, brightness, saturation may differ.

DIY metallic car painting is quite complex and requires correct application. Since the ability of paint to reflect light largely depends on how it is applied to the surface being painted. If it is not applied evenly, " spotting or striping"due to different layer thicknesses. This fact makes it very difficult technological process metallic painting, especially for beginners.

Metallic painting refers to two-layer coatings. Since a transparent varnish is applied on top, which adds shine and protection to the surface.

Base and metallic, what's the difference? There is practically no difference here. The base paint is the “Base” to which metallic grain is added to obtain the necessary shades and tints. You've probably heard the expression "Clean base". This is a base paint without adding grain, such as the color: White Cloud, which is used to paint our VAZ, Priors, Grants, etc. Mobihel company. There are a large variety of shades, the most popular are: metallic gray, blue, green, gold, black, white, silver, graphite.

Preparing for painting

Preparing the surface for applying metallic paint is practically no different from preparing it for painting with acrylic or alkyd two-component enamel, but still has its own nuances and features.

Metallic painting is more demanding in terms of the preparatory process. Especially this light colors such as: silver, light silver, gold and other similar shades.

Defects from a poorly prepared surface on such colors are noticeable many times more than on dark ones (chips, unevenness, scratches, dark debris, etc.).

1. should be finished with P-600 abrasive on an eccentric machine, preferably with a stroke of 3mm, if you are working dry.
2. When working on wet soil, the primer should be finished with P-800 abrasive, or better yet P-1000. When rubbing by hand.
3. There should be no defects on the surface (chips, large marks, scratches) for a high-quality result.
4. Thoroughly blow and dust off the area to be painted.
5. Degrease. High-quality degreasing is the key to a good result. Use a special one.
6. Walk around before painting. To remove remaining debris and dust.
7. Strain through a filter funnel.

Remember this for yourself! The key to a good result is quality training. There is no need to hope that the material will fill any defects, chips or large scratches from the abrasive!

Metallic paint is diluted with a special solvent for base paints. You can also use any branded acrylic thinner. Diluted according to the standard 50-60% thinner. You can also increase or decrease this value at your discretion.

Application process

For high-quality painting car metallic You must have a good one with an even and correct spray. A lot will depend on this. Gun settings are usually made at your own discretion. But remember, metallic painting is not required. high pressure, so for a Hvlp pistol the average value is somewhere between 1-1.8 bar. Before applying, do a test color on some surface.

Metallic car painting rarely occurs in one layer. Their number depends on the covering power of the material and the type of repair.

1. It is recommended to do the first layer not wet “greasy”. And the floor is dry and “dusty”. This way you can see if everything is going well and if there are any defects and avoid damaging the paint if there are rubs to the old one paint and varnish material.

2. The second and subsequent ones are applied semi-wet, semi-glossy layer.

3. The main factor is interlayer drying. The next layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely matted. Do not rush; let the solvents evaporate from the material.

4. It is necessary to go between layers with a sticky napkin to remove accumulated pollen or small debris.

5. Do not blow in different sides back and forth. Your movements should be smooth and even. This way the paint will apply evenly and correctly and you will avoid over-spraying, dusting and differences in thickness.

Metallic paint should NEVER be applied in a wet, “greasy” layer. The surface will acquire an unsightly structure and defects such as stripes will appear.

But you also cannot apply all layers by spraying (dry). So you'll get strong" hedgehog" rough surface like sandpaper. The varnish on such a base will not spread well and will have an unsightly shagreen pattern, and metallic grains can break through the varnish after drying.

Shagreen on the varnish also depends on how the base is applied; this point must be taken into account.

The metallic car painting technology ends with the application of varnish. The varnish must be applied over a completely matt base paint. Approximately 20-30 minutes, it all depends on the temperature environment and nuances of the work being carried out.

Silver paint, apple and stripes

Painting with silver, let's highlight this subsection and consider what problems may arise when applying silver and how to avoid them.

Paint the car dark colors much easier in terms of application. Even a less experienced painter can do this quite well. But painting with light silver metallics and some other colors, say golden, requires experience in applying such. Many people have problems when working with silver.

The main defects that appear when painting with light metallics are: spots (apple-colored) and stripes. I think every novice painter has encountered this.

The main causes of apples and streaks when painting metallic are:

1. Enamel is not thinned correctly
2. Faulty (uneven material spray)
3. Incorrect technique for working with a paint gun

As a result of all of the above, such defects occur.

Metallic, especially light colors, has the following properties: The “fatter” the layer, the darker the paint becomes and vice versa, the thinner (sprayed) the color changes in the other direction.

That is, you have applied an uneven layer of silver, some are thicker, some are drier, and this is what causes spots and stripes.

How to remove the apple-like appearance when painting metallic?

1. It is necessary to have a working one with an even spray of material
2. Correct adjustment is also important, the material feed should be "medium"
3. The distance to the surface to be painted should not be too close, at least 15 cm.
4. Passes with a spray gun should be uniform and identical.
5. Do not pour paint, layers should be semi-wet
6. And the most important thing (decisive action) is SPRAY. As soon as last layer I'm a little tired, do it finishing layer(leveling) spraying. You can leave the feed as is or reduce it a little, raise the pressure a little, hold the spray gun much further at a distance of 30-40 cm and spray a light layer. Movements can be different diagonally, across or lengthwise.

Just don’t overdo it, there shouldn’t be too much pollination. All settings mentioned above can be changed (depending on the situation) with the exception of the distance to the part to be painted.

Knowing all these subtleties and nuances, painting a car body with metallic will become an easy task for you and all the work will be done efficiently and without defects.

Finally, a video about painting metallic red fenders and bumpers.

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Metallic paint painting technology 18,086 Views

Metallic paints can be any color - gray, black, red, green, etc. All of them are distinguished by a characteristic metallic luster.

Metallic silver car color is one of the most popular due to its versatility and practicality. Dirt and dust on such a machine are less noticeable, and accordingly, it can be washed less often. Scratches are also less noticeable.

Regular car enamel consists of three main components: pigment, liaison and solvent. Metallic paint is more complex in its composition. It contains another fourth component - a thin layer of aluminum powder. Mixed with enamel, aluminum particles reflect light and create a metallic sheen. In addition, they protect the body from corrosion and the paint from premature fading.

Paint application procedure

Currently, there are three systems for painting cars in metallic colors - single-layer, two- and three-layer. The first is rarely used due to the difficulty of application. Three-layer is used when you need to get a white pearlescent color or create a complex effect (for example, a chameleon). This paint visually changes its shade depending on the viewing angle. When painting in three layers, a toner primer and transparent mother of pearl are used as a base.

The most common option is two-layer painting. In this case, the body is first coated with a base and then varnished. The paint adheres well to the ground and dries quickly. If there are any defects, they are removed by polishing.

The technology of applying metallic paint is generally more complex than applying conventional automotive enamel. The layer must be very even, otherwise any stains on the surface will be more visible. The technology involves three stages: a set of preparatory work, population of the base, and application of varnish. With a two-layer system, the base is applied in two layers, the second of which is drier. Each layer must dry in a natural way in 10-30 minutes, the exact time is indicated in the instructions for the paint. The base is a paint that gives a metallic effect, which itself does not have shine or resistance to weather conditions. To protect it, varnish is used. Before applying the varnish, it is diluted with a solvent and a fixative. It is applied in two or three layers on a properly dried base to avoid swelling of the paint.

Typically, the procedure for painting a car in metallic colors is carried out at a car service center, but there are also car enthusiasts who do it themselves.

Metallic paint is special composition, designed to give the material a beautiful shine. Most often this type of paint and varnish materials (primarily spray paint metallic) is used in the automotive industry.

However, in recent years, metallic shine has also become popular in construction and renovation work. The use of this type of paint and varnish has its own characteristics, which we will focus on in this article.

Differences between metallic and other types of paints

The main differences between metallic paint and conventional paints are as follows:

1. The composition contains aluminum powder, thanks to which the material acquires shine.
2. It is much easier to paint the surface with regular enamel. But metallic needs to be applied perfectly evenly, because otherwise unsightly spots cannot be avoided.
3. Metallic is characterized by higher resistance to corrosion processes, which is explained by the presence of aluminum in its composition.
4. Regular paint is more prone to fading.
5. Metallic to a greater extent prevents heating of the interior in hot weather (higher light reflection).
6. Metallic looks more attractive.
7. The cost of metallic paints is noticeably higher compared to conventional paintwork materials.

Paint composition

Let's take a closer look at the components of metallic paint:

1. Pigment. It is a finely ground powder, thanks to which the paint acquires the desired color. Also, the pigmenting substance can perform additional functions, for example, to protect metal from rusting.
2. Binding component. This substance is responsible for retaining the pigment on the treated surface. The binder also helps ensure that the coating becomes smooth and even.
3. Solvent. By diluting the paint with a solvent, it becomes fluid, which allows the composition to be applied to the surface. Moreover, the manufacturer’s task is to make the solvent evaporate as quickly as possible, since it is harmful and does not perform any other functions besides dissolving the composition.
4. Aluminum shavings and dust. Another name for the substance is aluminum powder. As mentioned above, aluminum is responsible for giving the coating shine. The reason for the reflection is the ability of aluminum powder to reflect light, which gives the appearance of a glowing coating.

Types of paints

There are several types of paints and varnishes on sale:

1. In aerosol cans. Such formulations may be offered either in finished form(paint and varnish are already mixed), or in a separate version (varnish and paint separately). Both types of packaging have the right to exist, but practice shows that working with separate cans allows you to achieve best results, since the surface will be more uniform. At the same time, the first method is more suitable for beginners, as it is simpler.
2. Acrylic composition. This paintwork material is used both for tinting paint and as an independent coloring agent. Acrylic has many advantages, including good adhesive qualities to any painted surface, as well as a wide selection of colors. It is also worth noting the safety of the solution, since it does not contain organic solvents harmful to human health.
3. Powder paints. This is a relatively recent invention of the chemical industry, but has already become quite popular. The reasons for the success of powder formulations lie in their consumer qualities: economical consumption, simple application technology, environmental safety, the widest choice colors.
4. Automotive paints. This is the most common metallic paint option. You can purchase this composition at any auto store. Applying paint is fraught with technological difficulties: as mentioned above, it is necessary to paint very evenly. However, if the work is done correctly, the surface will serve for many years, being resistant to mechanical stress and ultraviolet radiation.

Advice to the consumer! An aerosol can is the easiest way to apply paint.

It is also worth mentioning some nuances associated with the choice of color:

1. The white color allows you to get the effect of shining pearls - the coating seems to glow from the inside. This surface looks very elegant.
2. Black color looks deep and rich. The same effect applies to any other dark tones.
3. Red, green, blue - bright colors, and, if they are implemented in a metallic style, visual effect increases even more.
4. Metallic gray looks restrained and respectable, although the material painted with such paint does not look as bright as in the case of silver.

Painting features

The technological process of painting may vary depending on the type of paint and varnish material chosen, but the surface preparation process is always the same. Moreover, it should be noted that from thoroughness preparatory process The quality of the resulting coating directly depends.

Preparation

Instructions for carrying out work:

1. Delete old paint, if available. We clean the surface from dust, dirt, shavings and other debris.
2. We inspect the base for obvious defects (scratches, chips, etc.). We cover the defects with putty.
3. After the putty has dried, take sandpaper and sand the surface until it is as smooth as possible.
4. Again, clean the surface from dirt and dust and apply a degreasing compound. If we are talking about metal or plastic products, the best option- anti-silicone liquid. Other bases can be treated with white spirit.
5. Apply primer in 2-3 layers. The primer composition will protect the base from negative impact environment, will level the surface and create conditions for high-quality adhesion (that is, the adhesion of dissimilar materials). The primer should be selected based on the type of base, but the rule is that it must be compatible with the paint chosen. It is best if both the paintwork and the primer are from the same manufacturer.

Application of dye

Applying paint material from a can is a relatively simple process: movements should be very smooth, and the sprayer should be kept at a distance of 25-30 centimeters from the surface.

The technology of applying two-component varnish is not so widely known. The work is organized as follows:

1. First we create the base layer. Minor defects are allowed, since another layer will be applied on top, which should already be very uniform.
2. The varnish is applied in 2-3 layers (the specific number of layers depends on the type of material and type of varnish).

Note! It is extremely important to prevent the base from drying out, as in this case it is impossible to achieve a high-quality coating.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the so-called Apple identity. The defect is the appearance of round or striped spots on the metal. Appleness occurs as a result improper preparation base (for example, incorrect choice of primer) or faulty spray gun. Also, the cause of the appearance of “apples” can be applying paint to a damp surface. You should be very careful about all stages of the process, since in case of an error you will have to repaint the surface again with a very expensive coloring material.