Crane drawing. How to make a crane with your own hands? My own master

The design of a homemade crane will help those who themselves build a residential building, a summer house or a garden house.

A homemade crane will make it easier to install foundations, walls, ceilings and other structural elements.
Using such a jib crane, you can carry a load over a distance of up to 3 m, lift it to a height of up to 2 m and lower it to a depth of 2.5 m. The mechanism should be designed to install structures weighing up to 300 kg.

Rice. 1. Diagram of a crane that you can make yourself:

1 - block, 2 - crane boom, 3 - crane trolley, 4 - telescopic stand, 5 - paired angles, 6 - boom base blocks, 7- I-beam, 8 - struts, 9 - crane trolley movement winch, 10 - load frame, 11 - lifting mechanism winch, 12 - electric winch drive, 13 - stand corner, 14,15 - M 16 bolts, 16 - lifting hook assembled with a block .

The crane consists of a horizontal boom beam (the crane trolley moves along it) and vertical support posts made of steel pipes, to which horizontal beams are attached. The crane is collapsible, which allows you to move it from place to place.
Construction of crane stands.
They are made of pipes with a diameter of 140 mm. Their height can be increased up to 3 m using telescopic incoming pipes. To prevent the posts from sinking into the ground, corners are welded to the base. A horizontal beam is welded to the top of the supports - two corners x 65 x 10 mm connected together. A horizontal guide is attached to it from below with four bolts - an I-beam No. 20, having dimensions of 200 x 100 x 5.2 mm, 3000 mm long, along which the crane trolley moves.

The second pair of guide supports consists of two vertical pipes connected at the top and bottom. For greater stability, two inclined supports are welded to them, which in turn connect the racks with a rectangular frame. The latter prevents the crane from tipping over, as it serves as a base for laying sandbags or concrete blocks.

An important feature of a jib crane is its control. Those who will build and operate it need to know: the crane has a lifting and moving device. If necessary, any detail can be lowered below zero mark(in a pit or trench). The entire system of cables and pulleys of the lifting device is driven by an electric motor. The trolley is moved by a hand winch using a cable. One end of it is fixed to the trolley, then the cable goes through the block to the drum, makes five turns and, again passed through the blocks at the base and at the end of the boom, is fixed to the crane trolley.

The hook is lifted by a cable, fixed at one end to the winch and passing successively through the blocks of the base, boom and crane trolley; then the cable is lowered down, forms a loop on which a block with a hook is suspended, and is secured to the end of the boom through the block of the crane trolley.

Rice. 2. Diagram of the mechanism for lifting and moving the load:

1 - boom end block, 2 - cable fastening pin on the crane trolley, 3 - boom base blocks of the crane trolley moving mechanism, 4 - cable moving the crane trolley, 5 - drum, 6 - hoisting mechanism winch, 7 - hoisting mechanism boom base block , 8 - blocks of the maroon trolley, 9 - block of the hook, 10 - assembly for securing the lifting cable.

The lifting device can also be driven by a conventional manual winch, which will provide the crane with complete autonomy.

Before starting work, you should carefully check the strength of the nodes and supports. Standing under the boom is not allowed - this is the basic safety rule at any construction site.

We hope that there will be farmers and gardeners who will build a crane to make their work easier. Maybe not like that. But similar. The main thing is that he helps in the work.


Modern houses are being built higher and higher, and concrete blocks it doesn't get any easier. Therefore, if you think carefully, you can build a small crane with your own hands. The carrying capacity is not great, about two hundred kilograms, although, most likely, it can lift more weight, but it is not advisable to overload it. This design turns out to be completely collapsible, its components weigh approximately 20-30 kilograms, so you have to assemble such a crane alone special problems will not amount. In addition, such a structure is also easy to transport; the body of a Chinese pickup truck was quite suitable for this.

Let us remind you that we have previously published an article about a homemade tiny crane, for those who are interested, take a look.

Crane device

The cargo winch of my design is a worm gearbox with a 600 W electric drive, while the jib winch is a manual drive, organized on the same gearbox. Outriggers with screw stops are borrowed from construction supports. Drums for the winches were machined from rotors from electric motors, and suitable sizes were selected.

On the base of the mobile platform there are four wheels taken from the conveyor; thanks to them, the crane can be moved from one place to another without any problems, only if the outriggers of the crane are removed. This operation of removing and installing outriggers takes about five minutes. Therefore, the crane turns out to be quite mobile. But there is a small drawback: to move the crane, you need to lower the boom to zero, otherwise it becomes impossible to move the crane, since its balance is disturbed.

The boom itself has a length of 5 meters, the pipe was selected to be about 75 mm, and at the base of the boom itself there is a square profile made from two corners. There is also a portal for raising the boom, as well as a turning unit made from a hub from a truck. As a counterweight, a frame from a non-functioning machine was taken along with four tracks from a caterpillar mechanism. The brake in the winch in this case not provided because it is not necessary. There is also no brake in the turn itself, due to the fact that the speeds are very low, and, therefore, there is practically no inertia.

The minimum thickness of the metal used in my crane is about 3 mm; a rectangular pipe with dimensions of 85 * 50 and 85 * 55 is used as an outrigger and base as a whole - this is a kind of remains of agricultural equipment. The base of the tower is made of channel 200. A powerful bearing is inserted into the hook cage, therefore, the hook is able to rotate regardless of the pulley, to avoid overlap or twisting of the cable itself.

The stop screws are 400mm long, allowing the crane to be installed on very uneven surfaces.

There is one small drawback related to the wheels. The thing is that the wheels used in this case, when moving on loose soil, simply bury themselves in it; on a hard compacted surface - everything is fine. This faucet is considered one-time use, that is, after completing necessary work it is dismantled for scrap metal or for shelter until next application. That is why this design has a low load capacity and not very outstanding strength.

The manufacturing time for such a crane will take about three days, taking into account the preparation of all the necessary components. In this case, the gearboxes were made from what came to hand; the gearboxes have the following gear ratios: 1/30 and 1/35. , output parameters on the shaft are 600 W, capacitor capacity is 80 microfarads. All installations excluding counterweights weigh up to 250 kg, cost similar design– 4000 rub. Mostly the components used are borrowed from other equipment; only the cables and bearings are new.

Such a crane can easily lift one and a half hundred kilograms of cargo; we have not yet been able to move more at home.

Main components of a crane photo




Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts from a turner rotary mechanism.

And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.

In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that Exact size, like mine, you don’t have to follow it at all. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.

A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.


Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.

Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.


Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.


To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.

Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.

When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself as evenly as possible on the pipe, and if you help it a little in this (by eye), then it will turn out quite straight line along the circumference of the pipe, which remains to be drawn, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder.

Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally to the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and the legs, with four sides rested against her.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.

All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.


The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.

The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of ​​installing them is still there.

The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. For the platform I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.


If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.

But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.

Next will be the counterweight block.


I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.

There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but it was at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, that I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.


Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.



First - the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.


Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.


We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.


Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.


The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.

The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.


At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.


Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets that secure the shaft to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.



And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the knot more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it long ago.

Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like mine.

All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.

Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.

This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.

The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.

Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.

Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.

In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.

Well, a couple of examples of operation:



General view of my faucet:

If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.

I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.

Acceptable amount is from 10 rubles. up to 15,000 rub.

Homemade lifting devices are currently becoming increasingly popular. During construction and when working in a garage, you often have to move heavy loads. In construction, manual transportation takes considerable time, and it is not always possible to install ramps or scaffolding. In any case, it is much easier and more efficient to use lifts.

Crane diagram

The same applies to the automotive theme; a garage with a lift is much more convenient to use. The simplest lifts are an ordinary beam, rigidly fixed at one end, and a movable block is installed at the other end. A rope is thrown over the block, with the help of which the loads are tightened manually.

Such homemade lift Quite simple to manufacture, but from a practical point of view very inconvenient. Firstly, the load is still lifted manually, and secondly, dismantling and installing a beam from one place to another takes even more time than simply dragging weights. Similar mechanisms are used in log houses.

Materials and tools:

  • pillar supports;
  • wooden top beam;
  • metal guide;
  • wheel-pulley;
  • bearings;
  • chain hoist;
  • spacers;
  • pulley;
  • welding machine.

If the question of how to make a lift for a log house yourself makes you think, then here is a fairly simple solution. An upper beam with a length slightly greater than the length of the future structure is installed on 2 vertically dug pillar supports. This gap makes it possible to drag logs directly from the stack to the installation site.

The wooden beam must be equipped with a metal guide on top along which the mechanism will move. Further, the technology is simple, the wheel-pulley on a bearing is connected to an L-shaped metal part, to the other end of which a manual chain hoist with a load capacity of at least 750 kg is attached. This minimum is explained by the fact that the weight of a thirty-centimeter-wide log house ranges from 270 to 400 kg, depending on the moisture content of the wood.

The pillars for such a structure must be at least 20 cm in diameter, and the beam, based on the load, is a beam of at least 15X20 cm in cross section.

The guide is a piece of reinforcement to which the tips of the nails are welded at equal distances, no more than half a meter. They will attach the guide to the wooden beam.

The beam is fixed a couple of tens of cm away from the pillars to avoid coupling between the transport device and the pillar.

To strengthen the structure, spacers are installed on the nailed beam. If the height of the pillars is 4-5 m, then for stability they must be dug into the ground 1 m and spacers must be installed on the side in which the beam shifts.

The pulley, preferably with sides, is put on the guide and the lift is ready for work.

Homemade crane

At individual construction you can’t do without a crane, which you can also make with your own hands if necessary.

A homemade crane will help install floors, foundations and all other structural elements, thanks to its ability to fall below the zero mark by 2.5 m and rise to a height of about 2 m.

Such a crane allows you to transport cargo over a distance of 3 m. For home construction, the proposed capabilities should be sufficient.

This design does not provide a turning mechanism, since the crane is not designed for loads exceeding 300 kg and can be easily turned manually along with the entire structure.

In order to make a crane with your own hands, you will need:

  • 4 telescopic pipes with an outer diameter of 140 mm,
  • three-meter I-beam,
  • metal corners for supporting structures,
  • hoist or hand winch.

Homemade crane

Telescopic pipes are welded in pairs to the ends of beams consisting of two adjacent angles 1.5 and 0.5 m long, thus obtaining 2 U-shaped structures, which for stability are welded with a beam at the base and reinforced with triangular struts.

Additional support corners are welded to the smaller frame, which will serve as the rear support of the crane, to prevent the future lifting device from tipping over.

Bottom center horizontal beams an I-beam is welded so that the smaller frame is on the edge of the I-beam, and the larger one is a little further than 1.5 m from the smaller one.

A winch is attached to the bottom of the I-beam, which will be a horizontal mobile device, while the telescopic system will help move loads in the vertical direction.

Lift in the garage

How to make a homemade lift in the garage? Car enthusiasts quite often resort to self-repair vehicle, and removing a car engine by hand is not an easy task.

For such purposes, it is simply necessary to have a garage lift, even if you made it yourself. The collapsible crane beam system does not take up much space and is made from:

  • cross pipe,
  • square racks on triangular supports equipped with wheels,
  • manual winch.

The pipe is inserted into fasteners welded to the top of the racks and secured with bolts. The winch is welded to vertical rack, and 2 rollers are welded to the beam, along which the cable from the winch moves. A winch for the garage is also easy to do with your own hands.

After use, the homemade crane beam is disassembled into 2 supports and cross beam, which fit in any corner of the garage. The advantage of such a beam crane is that its creation does not require special skills and materials; everything can be found at hand.

In addition, the beam crane will allow you to lift and transport loads of up to 800 kg within the garage.

Homemade winch for the garage. The design of the winch involves the presence of a drum with a cable, which is attached to a shaft to a frame made of square pipes. A large sprocket is attached to the outer edge of the drum, and a small one is attached to chain transmission attached to the electric drive. If the winch is planned to be manual, then a handle is attached to the shaft on which the drum is mounted.

Car lift in the garage. To repair a car, a pit or overpass must be provided in the garage, but it is easier to organize a lift. Although this is a rather risky undertaking, equipping a lift in the garage with your own hands makes practical and economic sense.

The simplest car lift is the already described overhead crane with a winch; in this case, after lifting to the required height, the car is placed on platforms. But there is a risk of the cable breaking, so there is another garage lift.

For the manufacture of scissor lift you will need:

  • channels from which the platform and base are made,

and for making scissors the following are suitable:

  • I-beams,
  • hydraulic cylinder,
  • bushings,
  • pump,
  • distributor into two sections.

The beams are fastened with bushings using the scissor principle, and a hydraulic cylinder with a handle helps raise the scissors to the desired height.

Almost any construction site You can’t do without special equipment, especially a construction crane. He becomes an indispensable assistant when it is necessary to lift heavy loads to different heights.

Most people associate this technology with huge size, but there are many types of faucets that are ergonomic and compact.

You can even do some options yourself, saving personal savings during construction. In this article we will look at how to collect homemade faucet"Pioneer" for building a house.

Mini construction crane: scope of application

Mini cranes are in great demand. They are used during construction and repair work. Modern manufacturers offer innovative solutions in the manufacture of their products.

These devices are different:

  • maneuverability;
  • wide range of applications;
  • functionality;
  • ease of use.
  • Thanks to the presence of various attachments, various manipulations can be carried out with this technique.

    Mini cranes, both purchased and assembled at home, are capable of working in the most hard to reach places: in cramped courtyards, dense urban construction, uneven sites, inside buildings and on roofs. Compact dimensions allow special equipment to even pass through single or double doors.

    They are often used for fine, almost jewelry work. Manufacturers modern technology conducted an experiment with matchbox, which needed to be moved from one place to another. At the same time, the device did not crush or crush cardboard box such a tiny size.

    The presence of a control panel for the units allows users to control the work process while standing next to the equipment near the load, but only purchased units assembled in production have such advantages.

    You are unlikely to be able to make such a device yourself. But you can try to build something similar. Of course, a mini crane assembled by yourself will not be very functional, but it will be able to lift loads of a certain mass to a specified height.

    Simple mini-faucet with your own hands

    If you make a mini crane with your own hands, it will be able to lift loads weighing up to 250 kg. This will greatly simplify the construction process on site. He can handle lifting logs, concrete mortar, roofing materials. With it, you can do construction yourself without involving a large number of workers.

    The main thing when making a mini crane: prepare a drawing, necessary tools and details. The weight of this structure can reach 300 kg. It depends on what materials you will use during assembly. Despite its impressive weight, the mini crane will be distinguished by its compact size and high performance.

    Assembling a mini crane with your own hands consists of the following steps:

  1. Using a gearbox, a cargo winch is attached to a worm base.
  2. Construction supports are the basis for screw outrigger systems.
  3. In addition to the basic structure, drums for winches will be required to assemble the unit. Making them on your own is quite problematic. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase ready-made products.
  4. Rotors from an electric motor can be used as a basis.

Attention: at self-assembly mini crane, Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the relationship between the sizes of the elements and the dimensions of the future device.

To make the device convenient to use, its platform can be equipped with wheels. This is where the old transport cart comes to the rescue.

Features of mini cranes assembled by yourself include:

  • The optimal boom height is 5 meters. To make it yourself, you will need to use a pipe with a diameter of 8 cm.
  • A profile of 2 corners is mounted on the base and a rotating mechanism is created to rotate the boom. An automobile hub from a truck is suitable as a turning mechanism.
  • To build a counterweight, you don’t need any special materials. Ordinary bricks can serve as them.

Types of manual taps

All construction cranes are classified into:

  • self-propelled;
  • stationary;
  • tower;
  • special purpose.

This technique is equipped with a boom release mechanism, cargo trolley, rotating support.

By type of movement they are divided into:

  • stationary;
  • adjustable;
  • self-elevating;
  • mobile.

According to the type of control, these devices are electrically driven and manual (mechanical).

Lift

Modern lifts are divided by type into:

  • Foot. They are capable of lifting heavy loads weighing up to 2 tons to a height of 8 meters.
  • Telescopic. Their advantages include: light weight and compactness. These devices are capable of lifting loads working height up to 150 kg.

They, in turn, are divided into:

  • self-propelled;
  • non-self-propelled.

When choosing a lift, it is worth considering several factors: their dimensions, load capacity, scope of application.

To make a lift yourself, prepare the materials and preliminary drawing. To build it we will need:

  • a winch, which can be made from a drum and a cable;
  • pipes;
  • electric drive

The advantages of construction hoists include:

  • maneuverability;
  • high load capacity;
  • safety;
  • ease of use.

Scissor crane

The scissor crane is a simple and easy-to-use design. Due to their versatility and functionality, these devices are used in installation and construction work. They can also often be found in supermarkets and warehouses.

A scissor crane lifts tons of loads every day. This technique, in addition to construction industry, is regularly used in the maintenance of advertising billboards, facade signs, and elevators.

Their main advantages include:

  • performance;
  • high load capacity;
  • compact dimensions when folded;
  • wide range of applications;
  • maneuverability.

Their advantages also include autonomy - they can operate on batteries. In addition, cranes can be equipped different types drives:

  • electrohydraulic;
  • diesel;
  • electrical;
  • hydraulic.

Most often in construction, models with electric drives. They are affordable, environmentally friendly and easy to use.

There are a large number of variations of devices of this type, but almost all of them consist of:

  • lifting device,
  • mobile platform;
  • equal-speed drive wheels.

To build a scissor crane yourself, you will need to make the base and platform of the apparatus from a channel. To make scissors you will need:

  • two-section distributor;
  • bushings;
  • pump;
  • hydraulic cylinder;
  • I-beams.

A DIY scissor crane is capable of lifting loads weighing up to half a ton. This device is installed on the UAZ, and after operation it is removed. The basis of the structure will be a thick square bolted to the frame, and the retractable pores will be held on the car bumper.

Crane Pioneer

The Pioneer type lift has excellent technical characteristics. It is light in weight and distinguished by maneuverability and mobility. The advantages of this device include the ability to quickly and easily assemble and disassemble.

To deliver the device to the construction site, it can be disassembled and folded into a simple gazelle. After work, it can also be easily disassembled and transported back. The crane can be installed anywhere: on the ground, in a pit, on a roof, on building floors.

This special equipment is produced by different companies in three main modifications of cranes, lifting capacity, and booms.

If necessary, you can make a Pioneer crane yourself, having with you the necessary Consumables, tools, well-designed drawing and free time.

As for the scope of application of the Pioneer, it can be used to move various objects at any weather conditions. It is capable of delivering cargo to any floor or building structure. With its help you can deliver: tools, equipment, building materials and the like.

Quite often this device is used when installing roofs. With it you can quickly lift various loads, machines, metal constructions, materials.

Advantages of the Pioneer crane

The main advantages of the Pioneer crane include:

  • ease of use - thanks to a simple and reliable design;
  • the ability to assemble and disassemble the device within half an hour;
  • mobility, allowing the unit to be used even at distant sites;
  • low energy consumption.

Important: The Pioneer crane is capable of rotating the boom 360 degrees.

But this unit also has its drawbacks:

  • it is capable of lifting a weight of no more than 1 ton;
  • if you hang a flexible load on it, it is not always convenient and safe.

Do-it-yourself Pioneer crane

The Pioneer crane has a simple design. It consists of the following elements:

  1. Basic support frame. It can be dismountable, bolted or standing on wheels. The second rotating frame is attached to it;
  2. Safety guy ropes, cargo ropes, electric drive;
  3. Swivel boom. It can be dismountable or bolted;
  4. End stop mechanism. It is located at the end of the boom;
  5. A limit switch located on the mechanism responsible for lifting the load.

So, if you started construction on personal plot, but you don’t have the desire or financial means to hire special equipment, try assembling the crane yourself. With it, you don't have to lift heavy loads yourself.

Attention: The Pioneer construction crane is a collapsible structure designed to lift loads. It can be used when digging a foundation pit for a house, installing a roof, or constructing walls at high altitudes.

The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame, which is installed either permanently or on a chassis. The part of the crane that rotates is installed on the frame. You can rotate the boom manually or electric.

The load of this device is lifted using a winch, and stability is achieved thanks to a counterweight and turnbuckles (steel cable stays).

Materials and tools

To make the device we need following materials, which can be found in the garage or in a specialty store:

  • rectangular pipe;
  • I-beam;
  • telescopic unit for I-beam;
  • small diameter cables;
  • channel;
  • electric motor;
  • winch.

Tools you will need:

  • keys;
  • hammer;
  • Screwdriver Set.

Design diagram

To make a Pioneer faucet with your own hands, you need to make competent scheme. It should strictly indicate: materials of manufacture, dimensions of each individual element, methods of fastening parts.

When creating a diagram of a future design, it is worth carefully calculating everything. If you don’t quite understand this, it’s better to invite a specialist. Having a well-designed diagram in your hands, you can independently manufacture and assemble the device in the shortest possible time.

Assembly Features

As for the assembly of the product:

  1. The crane frame is assembled from a corner 63x63x5 mm.
  2. For a 5-meter boom, a pipe with a diameter of 5–8 cm is required.
  3. To strengthen the structure, you will need 2 corners, measuring 30x30x3 mm.

The carrying capacity of such a device will be 150 kg. If the ropes are strengthened, it will be possible to lift heavier loads.

Attention: Making an electric faucet at home is quite difficult. It will be more expensive and take longer.

When choosing an I-beam, you should make sure that it fits freely into the pipe. It will be installed on sliding guides, resulting in a telescopic unit.

In order for a homemade crane to function well, you will need to equip it with small diameter cables. They are best purchased at a specialty store. To weld the supporting structure and the rotating frame, it is necessary to use a channel.

Thanks to it, the crane will be well fixed to the surface. For safe operation For the device, it is recommended to weld the platform into a rectangle.

To start the lifting process, you will need to purchase an electric motor and connect it to a winch from the UAZ.

Attention: If you want the electric motor to start electrically, invite a specialized technician. Although this procedure It is not particularly complicated; for safety reasons, it is better to use the services of a professional.

That's the whole process of assembling a Pioneer crane with your own hands.

Specifications

The manufacture and assembly of the Pioneer construction crane has a lot of positive aspects. Its installation on construction site will help you save on the number of builders. With it you can lift roofing materials, timber, working tools and equipment to the required height.

After assembly homemade device You can see its technical characteristics:

  • The load capacity of the device can vary between 0.5–1 ton. It all depends on the materials used during assembly.
  • The height of the crane will be 4 meters.
  • The platform can rotate 360 ​​degrees.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that when starting construction on a personal plot, in order to save money, try to assemble special equipment with your own hands. Of course, you will spend your free time on such manipulations, but you can save a lot. Even large construction companies do not always buy special equipment. They usually resort to renting units.



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