Processing new cross-country skis. How to prepare skis for skiing or competitions

10.07.2013

Why prepare your skis?

At the very beginning, a few words should be said for those who are new to this area. There are two types of ski ointments: and.

Application area holding ointments for a classic move.

For a classic style, the front and back of the ski are lubricated with slip wax. And the center of the ski is lubricated with holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (pad) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the last up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

In the skating style, the skis are lubricated along the entire length with gliding wax. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is skiing on weekends, then the cost of lubricants and time for preparing skis will be minimal. But if you are going to participate in competitions and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

The minimum preparation of skis at a more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying it, removing it and then brushing it), applying several layers of weathering paraffin (you need to apply it, let it cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then remove it with a scraper , brush and polish). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not particularly strong. If you prepare your skis at home, there is a serious problem - wax contamination. They can ruin the floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because it is possible to spread it throughout the house. This type of training will appeal only to ardent skiing fans. Luckily, there are easier preparation options.

Sliding lubricants and paraffins.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use . These funds are not cheap and are used up quickly. Therefore, if you are not a professional athlete, then it is better not to waste money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is unlimited, but it makes no sense to buy it in large quantities.

If the climate where you intend to ride is humid, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluoridated gels, emulsions, and sprays. All you need to do is apply them to your skis using an applicator or spray them. Then dry, heat with a hairdryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are their considerable cost and rapid consumption.

Ski grip ointments.

Holding ointments exist in solid and liquid states. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it must allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle part of the ski, and thanks to the wax, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the layer of wax), which allows you to push off). After repulsion, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person slides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as applying multiple layers.

With ointment for amateurs, things are much simpler. There is one simple rule that works for negative temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment that has the lower limit of the temperature range three to four degrees above the current temperature. If you didn’t guess correctly with the ointment, and if the skis slow down too much, then apply a “colder” ointment on top; if they slide too much, apply a “warmer” ointment. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the tip of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will only take a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Don’t be afraid of experimenting with ointment; this is the fastest way to find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you lubricate your skis at home, it is recommended to remove the remnants of the old holding ointment before applying a new one. To remove old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two or three thin layers, rubbing each layer.

Ointments in a liquid state are called. Apply it in the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, then smooth it out with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be used at positive temperatures. But it has one unpleasant property - it gets the case very dirty. So after skiing, it is better to wrap your skis in plastic so as not to contaminate or damage the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to melt and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after riding, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work great in sub-zero temperatures, but may cause problems in certain conditions:

• Podlip. When the temperature moves above zero, an unpleasant phenomenon such as sticking may occur. This is the sticking of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball forms under the block.
• Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the ointment after a point, break down in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. This often happens when the temperature of the ointment is slightly higher than necessary.
• The snow conditions in and outside the ski track may differ, so problems may arise when exiting the ski track; the skis may slow down too much. This can also be observed when driving from the shade into the sun and vice versa.

Tools for preparing skis.

A few words should be said about the necessary tools. After reading some articles, beginners in skiing may have the opinion that they need to purchase dozens of tools to prepare their skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set. By the way, we have prepared several options for ski preparation kits in the section.

If the sliding surface of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for preparing your skis will be. The remaining necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and remnants of old paraffin) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new paraffin).

New skis, regardless of whether you then subject them to hot wax application or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using a regular household iron, as there is a possibility of burning the plastic - an irreversible effect that will greatly worsen the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary processing should be performed with plus-size soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. You need to set the temperature of the iron to a minimum at which the paraffin will melt, and begin to warm up the ski, smoothly moving the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski. This processing method is suitable if you do not intend to apply paraffin using an iron in the future.

Basic tools used when preparing skis:

1. , used to remove paraffin residue. We recommend choosing a scraper with a special curve to make it convenient to remove wax from the grooves of the ski.
2. . Used to remove paraffin residue after skiing with a scraper. If you plan to use hot paraffin application, then you definitely need this brush.
3. . Used to prepare new skis and to remove fluff left from the sanding machine on the sliding surface. The cost of this tool is not high.
4. . Non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.
5. Sandpaper. Used for sanding ski lasts in a classic style so that the ointment will stick to it better in the future. Not necessary. Any fine grit sandpaper is suitable for sanding.
6. Metal scraper. Used to remove old structure. An amateur won't need it. Cycling a ski requires a special machine and certain skills. But it’s very easy to ruin your skis with this device.
7. , which applies a new temperature structure to the sliding surface. For amateurs it is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.
8. . It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.
9. . Used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is advisable to purchase. A very useful thing.
10. . Used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best used for ointments, and cork rubbing is best for accelerating paraffins. A must-have tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the skier’s level of training, you can either go to our store or assemble your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking through the forest on plastic skis. You don't have to buy paraffin and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate your skis under the block, rubbing it with a synthetic cork, so that there is no kickback. This will be enough for walking.

Compound: three or four jars of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one rubbing plug.

2) Sufficient. A set for complete and reasonable ski care. With its help you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Compound: a minimal set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, a ski iron, a wash, a brush, a scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that is suitable for a well-trained professional athlete.

Compound: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluoride, a set of paraffins with fluoride, knurling, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

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The ongoing “cycle or paraffin” debate will never go away. Adherents of either method of preparing the sliding surface of skis (SSL) have the right to their own opinion, confirmed by successful experience. This article is dedicated to “paraffin specialists”.

Purpose of basic processing - create conditions under which the sliding surface of skis acquires adhesive, electrostatic and chemically active properties designed to effectively retain lubricant and reject dirt. This treatment has a significant impact on the gliding process of the ski in any conditions.

We will need: ski profile, iron, set of brushes (bronze, steel, hard nylon), plastic scraper, groove scraper, non-synthetic fabric (fiberlin), set of paraffins (BW, BWG, BWLF - Start or analogues).

Sequence of actions for basic ski processing

is described below, we perform each point first with one, then with the other ski and move on to the next:

1. Go 20-25 times from toe to heel with a brass brush with light pressure, then 5-7 times with a steel brush. The use of a steel brush after a brass brush is always necessary (we will do this further in the text without additional reminder). The purpose of the first point is to remove the transport lubricant; it can be in the form of a film rather than paraffin. If there is a layer of paraffin, use a scraper first.

2. Walk 10-15 times from toe to heel with a steel brush. The goal is to remove the smallest particles from the pores of the joint venture and open the structure from old plastic fibers. In principle, such a ski will perform quite well. But not in all conditions.

3. Using Base Wax paraffin (or any low-melting option) at an iron temperature of about 85-90 degrees. pour in SPL, level and remove while hot without pressing hard on the plastic scraper so as not to damage the surface. Repeat 2-3 times until the color of the removed paraffin is free of dirty spots. Do not let the ski cool down. The goal is to extract small particles from the pores of the plastic. Apply BW again and melt with an iron. As the paraffin is absorbed, add new one. Duration - about 10-15 minutes, without allowing the ski to cool down. The goal is to absorb paraffin deep into the SP to close the pores and effectively retain the racing wax in the future. At the end, coat the ski again with paraffin, melt it and leave to cool.

4. Remove BW paraffin. To do this, remove the paraffin from the groove. Next, use a scraper at an angle of 45 degrees. to the surface (acute angle - from the side of the heel) without strong pressure, move from toe to heel. Continue until the paraffin is removed. Next, clean first with a nylon brush until the dust disappears (20-30 passes), then several passes with a brass brush (4-5).

5. Set the iron temperature to about 135-140 degrees. Cover the SPL with Base Wax Graphite paraffin, similar to step 3. Do not cover the transparent part of the ski tip with BWG! The goal is to close the pores with a graphite composition to impart antistatic properties to the SPL and create a barrier to prevent dirt from penetrating into the plastic. It should be taken into account that this paraffin is very fragile and refractory, so you need to touch the iron and SPL with the bar more often, melt it in several passes, without holding the iron in one place. After completely covering the SPL with paraffin, remove it with a scraper after 20-30 seconds, clean it with a brass brush and cover it again with BWG. Repeat again - 3 times in total. The last time ends with cleaning with a brass brush SPL. Allow the ski to cool. Finally clean the SPL until the gray spots disappear with a brass brush.

6. Clean the SPL with a brass brush - 10-15 movements along the ski from toe to heel. Wipe the joint with a clean non-synthetic cloth (fiberlene).

7. Apply Base Wax Low Fluoro - base low fluoride paraffin. Iron temperature - 130-135 degrees. Apply to SPL, melt, let cool to room temperature. Remove with a scraper, clean with brass (5-7 times), then nylon (20-30 times) brushes. Repeat 2 more times for a total of 3.

8. Apply basic purple (for upcoming heat) or blue (for cold) paraffin to the joint.

Basic ski preparation is complete. The SPL should have a thick black, greasy, glossy tint. This operation should take 2.5-3 hours for one pair of skis. For classics, the block is not processed!

The effectiveness of the technique has been proven by practice at all distances, especially at long distances and in abrasive, abrasive snow - paraffin lasts longer. SPL remains “fresh” with proper processing throughout the season.

Cleaning your skis before every race.

Remove the soil with a scraper, then with a nylon brush. Swipe 3-5 times with a brass brush from toe to heel, remove dust with fiberlen. Swipe 3-4 times with a steel brush from toe to heel. Between cleanings, wipe the joint with a clean cloth to remove dust.

Apply a weather-resistant fluoride-free primer or graphite. For aggressive snow - +1 more layer. The goal is to ensure that the paraffin is abraded in layers. Experience has shown that this is how paraffin holds best. After applying the next layer, let the ski cool, remove the paraffin with a scraper, and polish with a nylon brush until shiny. Apply the next layer, melt with an iron. Allow the ski to cool. Next - repeat.

Ski cleaning after every race.

Thoroughly clean the ski with a brass brush - 10-15 passes from toe to heel until a velvety color appears. Remove dust from the SP with a clean piece of cloth. Go from toe to heel 3-5 times with a steel brush. The goal is to clean the joint venture from dirt and solid particles.

Generously lubricate the joint with BW paraffin and melt with an iron. When hot (creamy), remove the paraffin with a scraper. Repeat the operation until the paraffin is removed clean, without dirt. Apply and melt BW again, let it cool, remove with a scraper, polish with a nylon brush, then brass (3-5 passes) and steel (2-4 passes). The goal is to remove old grease and dirt from the pores of the plastic.

Apply purple or blue primer, melt it, let the ski cool, and put it in the case. The goal is to close the joint venture from exposure to air and dust.

*** Based on materials from the magazine “Skiing”.

…I rode in Bitsa on the first snow this year. On one of the climbs I was stopped by a man who admitted that he had just bought himself plastic skis.
- Why do you easily climb the mountain, but my skis roll the same way both forward and backward?
- What did you smear them with?
- What, they also need to be smeared?!

This dialogue, for all its apparent implausibility, is nevertheless very characteristic. Do I need to lubricate plastic skis, and what should I use?

Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing,
editor-in-chief of the magazine "Skiing".

I. Should I buy skis with notches?

This is a question to which, unfortunately, there is no clear answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the skiing population of our planet, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using skis with notches are more than obvious - you will never have to bother yourself with the question of how to wax skis. Agree, this way of putting the question is captivating - I took my skis, got up and went.

The disadvantages are just as obvious. Such skis will hold up well on soft, loose snow, but will not hold up on more or less hard ski tracks. And, the most annoying thing is that if the skis with notches do not hold, it is almost impossible to lubricate them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to oil their skis. This is a more complex option, which nevertheless guarantees normal skiing in any weather. However, the final choice is still yours, and the article below is addressed precisely to those who have made their choice in favor of “regular” classic skis, and are faced with the question of how to apply them to the grip (so that they do not give up or slide back ).

II. A set for lubricating skis consisting of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, a rubbing plug, and a scraper.

This is the bare minimum kit you'll need to lubricate your skis. To ski on the track in the classic style, the skis must be coated with holding ointment under the block. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upward from the binding. It is this middle part of the ski (block) that needs to be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported holding ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is quite enough to buy a set of 4 holding ointments (for example, domestic Visti, Uktus, Festa, Zet, Ray or imported ones - Swix, Toko, Briko, Start, Holmenkol, etc.). etc.) and lubricate the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with holding ointment, it (the ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason you can’t get an even layer, don’t worry about this, it’s enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you go into the woods to ski, it is advisable to always take with you a warmer and cooler holding ointment than the one you just applied, as well as a cork and a scraper. Let's look at the two most typical cases of ointment failure.

1. The skis don’t hold, or, as skiers say, they “give away” that is, they do not allow you to push confidently; when you push with your foot, they slip back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can enjoy skating again. It will only take you a couple of minutes to correct the grease.

2. Skis, as skiers say, are “dull” that is, they don’t move at all, and sometimes they also become covered with ice or snow under the block - in the middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticking” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

After this, intensively rub the ski block, first with a glove, removing the grease from the remaining snow and droplets of moisture, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and drying the ointment. You will have to exert much more effort compared to rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of cooler ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubricant. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue your walk in the forest.

III. Let's look at a specific example: how to wax skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. You have a set of Wisty ski waxes, consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero would be to apply blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember the golden rule: for a ski trip you should always take two briquettes (cans) of borderline ointments in your pocket or pouch. In this case it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, both when it warms up and when it gets colder, you can make adjustments to your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

When you return home, remove the old ointment from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After this, you can safely apply new lubricant to the remains of the old grease. If you want to clean your skis completely (which, in general, is completely optional), you can do this with a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline or turpentine. If funds allow, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded cleaner - it has almost no smell, so you won’t “offend” anyone in your household with the smell of gasoline.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, and a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I already said, four inexpensive jars of ointment, a scraper and a rubbing plug will be enough for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already above zero. Sunday afternoon, sun, drops drive you out into the street with your skis, you smear yourself with the warmest briquettes of ointment you have (say, VISTI 0-2 or Swix + 1 - 0), but the skis... categorically do not hold, they “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski ointment (skiers sometimes call liquid ski ointments klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fiddling and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

So, you can get by with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment – ​​red (plus) and purple (zero and a slight minus). We apply red ointment at any above-zero air temperature, and purple ointment at zero or slightly below zero. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy like in winter. As a rule, in the spring it consists of hard, large snow and ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather you will need a purple klister.

How to apply liquid ski wax to skis? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing fat drops of ski wax onto the last (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.

And now about why you have to fuss a little more with liquid ski waxes compared to solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski waxes, whose consistency is very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands and clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper and then with a wash. The second option is to pack your skis in a case, take them home and clean them there. Still, most skiers prefer to clean their skis immediately after finishing training - there is less soiled clothing and sticky hands, and the inside of the ski cover does not get dirty. The obligatory need to clean your skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the constant companions of liquid ointments are usually spring sun, wonderful skiing and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers sell economy ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a rubbing stopper.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment and a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive belt bag (skiers call it a “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a can of wash. This is a very good option for solving all your problems with ski lubrication for the next few years in one fell swoop, so be sure to use it if possible.

VI. Gliding ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

This is an area that I strongly advise you not to trespass into. Believe me, modern plastic skis glide perfectly on the snow without any special treatment. This glide will be enough for you for any, even the longest walks through the forest in any weather.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not treat them with anything.

It’s another matter if your walks in the forest brought you to such a state that you wanted to go to the start of, say, the 50-kilometer “Moscow Ski Track” or, even more so, to test yourself in a very difficult classic MVTU Race.

VII. How to improve ski glide?

I admit to you, this chapter is an insertion; I am forced to write it several years after writing the article itself. I am forced because I see that many of you, our readers, still have questions even after reading this article, and I have to answer them after receiving your letters. That is, it seems that I still failed to explain some important, basic things in this article. For example, there are a lot of questions about how to improve ski glide. Therefore, this chapter is a summary of everything that has already been said in this article and in the answers to your questions (as well as what has not been said) about ski sliding.

So, what affects ski glide??

Fork #1.

Smooth skis or knurled skis? Remember that skis with notches will always glide significantly worse than skis without notches. More details about this in the very first chapter of this article and here is my response to one of your letters:

Fork No. 2.

Type of sliding surface plastic . Again I direct you to my answer to Natalya Sinitsyna Skis with notches don't work - it's just terrible!- I spoke there in some detail about two types of sliding surface plastic - high molecular weight (expensive and fast) and low molecular weight (cheap and relatively slow). Please read. Look at mine car analogy. Remember that a wheelchair can be improved and modernized in some way, but making it drive like a Porsche 911 or even like a Ford Focus is unrealistic.

Fork No. 3.

Should I use sliding lubricants? Let me emphasize that I wrote this article with beginners in mind, people just taking their first steps on skis. Within this concept I believe that plastic skis do not need to be prepared for gliding- modern plastics glide quite well in the snow. And yet, since this question is asked constantly, I will answer. The first thing you need to do is learn to distinguish between sliding lubricants and grip lubricants, so as not to fall into the situation described in this letter, when our reader Tatyana Shalimova smeared her skis along the entire length with holding ointment and wondered why her skis weren’t moving.

So, have you already learned to distinguish holding ointments (“plasticines”) from gliding ointments (“candles,” sprays, applicators, etc.)? Then -

Fork No. 4.

Quick application gliding ointments (“lazy”) or professional ones? First, you should keep in mind that there is a fairly large selection of quick-apply gliding ointments (sometimes called “lazy” ointments) at your disposal. To apply these ointments to the sliding surface of skis, you do not need to have any equipment.

And finally, the pinnacle of technology for preparing skis for gliding: the use of so-called paraffins, sprays, emulsions, powders, accelerators, etc. You will need: a strong, non-wobbly table, a ski machine, two clamps, a professional ski iron (in no case not household!), brushes, scrapers, fiberlen (special non-woven wipes for treating skis), paraffins, powders, accelerators... I’m not sure that it is advisable to describe this rather complex and expensive process of preparing skis in an article for beginners. However, if I see that within the framework of even this articles for beginners: what brushes are needed for a beginner when preparing the sliding surface of cross-country skis?

QUESTION ANSWER

After the publication of this article, letters began to come to me from time to time with “naive” questions that readers could not find answers to in this material. At first I answered them privately, until suddenly it occurred to me that these answers might be of interest to a wider circle of our readers. So if you did not find the answer to your question in the article, write to me at my mailbox [email protected], send your questions, I will definitely answer them. In the meantime, here are the first questions and answers to them.

2. Aluminum ski poles bend. What to do?

3. Is it worth waxing skis for grip in orienteering?

In order to prepare your skis for serious competitions, you need a lot of experience, flair and perhaps even luck. Professional ski teams have several people who prepare skis and measure humidity and air temperature. But anyone can prepare skis so that they glide well for amateur skiing. This article was created to familiarize readers with the technique of applying paraffin, holding ointments, proper treatment of skis with brushes, etc.

Preparation of skating style skis and the sliding part of classic skis.

For better skiing, the sliding surface of the ski must have a structure similar to the structure of the snow, and gliding ointments or paraffins must be applied to its surface, which would correspond to weather conditions. The best ski glide can be achieved if the structure of the skis and the ointment match the structure optimally.

The purpose of the ski structure is to minimize the contact of the sliding surface and the friction force with the snow.

The surface structure is the pattern that remains on the plastic after skis are processed using special machines. The structure can also be applied manually using knurling or cutting. The fine textured surface is suitable for cold weather and fine-grained snow. For warm weather, skis with a larger structure are used.

Types of ski structures applied using TOKO knurling.

Applying paraffin to skis.

If the paraffin is soft enough, then you can simply spread it on the ski. If it is hard, then it needs to be fused from the iron to the ski. There is an option to heat up a block of paraffin and apply it to the ski. It doesn’t matter which method you use, but enough paraffin should be applied to evenly cover the ski with a layer of 0.3 to 1 mm.

Melting paraffin using an iron.

After applying paraffin, it should be melted and smoothed over the ski with a heated iron. Processing a ski with an iron is a dangerous procedure; you can overheat and damage the plastic of the sliding surface. The temperature of the iron should be minimal, but sufficient to melt the paraffin. You need to move the iron over the ski quickly, without delays and frequent repetitions. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the sliding surface; when the sole of the iron and the ski come into contact, the plastic quickly overheats and swells. You cannot save paraffin, because there is a significant risk of ruining your skis. The surface of the iron needs to be cleaned with a rag from time to time.

Preparing skis for skating style.

Surface cleaning and preparation.

First you need to brush the sliding surface of the ski several times with a brass or steel brush. You need to brush in one direction, from the toe to the heel of the ski. Then you need to apply a layer of ground paraffin and level it with an iron at low temperature. Then you need to clean the surface of the ski with a scraper. The gutter is also cleaned with a special scraper. After such cleaning, a lot of paraffin remains, so it is necessary to treat the surface with a nylon brush. After this procedure, the surface of the skis should be sufficiently cleaned for further application of base and gliding waxes.

Apply one to three layers of “warm” paraffin. After the next layer is applied, the paraffin should cool for fifteen to twenty minutes. Then it needs to be treated with a scraper and a nylon brush. When preparing skis for competitions, special graphite wax must be applied before waxing the skis.

Apply paraffin appropriate to the weather, then scrape it off and brush it: first with a horsehair brush, then with a fine steel wool brush - this gives additional structure, and finally with a nylon brush for final polishing.

After completing all the above procedures, the skis are ready for use.

1. Clean the surface from dirt using.	2. Apply base coat.	3. Smooth the wax evenly over the surface of the ski.
4. Clean the surface from paraffin using.	5. Clean the groove using a special one.	6. Clean any remaining paraffin from the structure using .

Application of accelerators.

Solid accelerator.

Apply weather-appropriate paraffin. Then apply accelerator. Rub the surface of the ski with the cork until it becomes warm and set the ski aside for twenty minutes. Then you need to brush the surface. Repeat the procedure two to five times to ensure that the accelerator adheres better. The accelerator applied in this way should last up to ten kilometers.

Fluorocarbon powder.

Prepare the sliding surface of the ski and apply base wax. Treat it with a scraper and brush. Then apply weather-appropriate paraffin. Next, repeat the procedure with a scraper and brush. Sprinkle the powder evenly over the sliding surface of the ski, then rub over the surface to melt the powder. The iron temperature should be as specified in the powder instructions. Then put the ski away for twenty minutes or more. It is better to carry out the last treatment with brushes immediately before using the skis.

1. Warm up the sliding surface using.	2. Sprinkle onto surface.	3. Distribute the accelerator evenly using .
4. Melt the accelerator.	5. Remove excess accelerator.	6. Polish the surface before the race using.

Emulsions.

Apply base paraffin and carry out the cleaning procedure with a scraper and brush. Then apply paraffin suitable for the weather and repeat the cleaning procedure. Then apply the emulsion and let it dry for five to ten minutes. Then rub the cork until the ski warms up and again leave the ski alone for twenty minutes. After this, you can begin finishing the surface with a brush.

1. Pre-polish the surface of the ski. Use the yellow side.	2. Spray at a distance of 10 cm from the ski and let dry at room temperature for 15 minutes.	3. Polish the surface with the white side.	4. Before the race, additionally polish the surface with a special polish.

Preparing classic style skis.

Preparation of the sliding surface.

The preparation of the sliding surface is carried out in the same way as the preparation of skate-style skis, but without treating the skis under the block. Do not apply paraffin under the block; apply it only to the tip and tail of the ski. You can calculate the length of the block yourself, and for this you will need an assistant. To do this, you need to strap into your skis on a flat floor and stand evenly on both feet. Ask an assistant to slide a piece of paper under the ski block and mark on the block the places where the sheet will rest against the sliding surface. This way you will determine your individual length of the effective repulsion surface. If you choose skis that are too hard for your weight, then the length of the pads may be more than 70-75 cm - this will have a bad effect on the dynamic characteristics of the ski - you will not be able to push off well and will lose gliding speed. Choose skis according to your weight and skiing level.

The length of the pushing surface of a classic ski depends on the weight of the skier and the stiffness of the skis, but should not be more than indicated in the figure.

Solid holding ointments.

Sand the pad with sandpaper to ensure better adhesion of the ointment to the surface of the ski. This way the ointment will last longer. For the bottom layer, primer ointment is used. Apply one layer of heated ointment suitable for weather conditions, then smooth it with an iron. Then a holding ointment is applied, which is also selected according to weather conditions. It is applied in four to six layers in the holding area. Each layer is rubbed with a cork.

1. Roughen the surface under the block with fine sandpaper and then remove dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Rub the base ointment evenly into the surface using .
4. Apply the required coating to the ski block.		5. Rub the ointment. It is recommended to apply at least 3-4 layers of ointment and rub each layer separately.

Liquid ointments - klisters.

You need to clean the block, as in the previous section. Then apply a layer of base klister, and on top a layer of klister for the given weather. It is best to carry out this procedure indoors. Then you need to heat the klister layers with a hairdryer. Before using skis, you should cool them in the fresh air.

1. Give the surface under the block a special roughness with fine sandpaper and remove dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Grind the klister and let it cool in the cold. Clean the iron from any remaining base klister.
4. Apply in the pad area.		5. Rub the klister or your fingers.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

The easiest way to clean the block from ointment residue is with an acrylic scraper. You can also use for this procedure. Apply it to the surface of the ski, wait half a minute and wipe with paper.

The sliding surface of the ski should be cleaned several times a season. Carefully apply the ground wax, then melt it. The dirt should rise to the surface and can be easily removed along with the paraffin using a scraper. Then apply a weather-appropriate wax. It is better not to use solvent to clean skis, since after it you need to apply ground wax again. But the use of a solvent will be necessary if the klister gets on the sliding surface of the ski.

To apply paraffin, it is best to use a special one. Because a regular household iron does not provide an accurate temperature. If you stop the iron at one point, or move it too often in the same place, you can ruin your skis.
- Before applying the slip wax, rub the ski from toe to heel.
- After cleaning the surface, treat it as thoroughly as possible.
- can only be used in holding areas, under no circumstances apply it in places where sliding paraffin is applied.
- When using, it is better to reduce the holding area by 3-4 centimeters and limit it with tape or a fixed paper sheet. Do not use tape - it will leave sticky marks.
- Experience is very important in preparing skis. Use different combinations of ointments during training, and you will find the best option for competitions.
- Paraffin protects the sliding surface. For long-term storage, always apply, or better yet.

Treatment of the sliding surface with brushes.

Modern machine processing of the sliding surface of skis gives it a certain structure. This structure allows water and air to drain well when rubbing against snow, which ensures good gliding. Therefore, it is very important to thoroughly clean the grooves of the structure from ointment residues in order to ensure maximum gliding quality.

The structure of the ski with primary paraffin treatment. All pores and grooves are filled with hot paraffin.	The structure of the ski is processed using a scraper. There is still quite a lot of paraffin in the recesses, which will interfere with the removal of moisture.	Ski structure after brushing. Using several types of brushes, you can clean and polish the surface to a perfectly clean state.

After paraffin is applied to the sliding surface and removed with a scraper, the grooves of the structure remain filled with paraffin. In order to completely clean them, you need to use brushes. They come in manual and... Using hard metal or nylon brushes allows you to completely remove any remaining paraffin.

When using a brush (of any kind), do not press it too tightly against the sliding surface of the ski. Brushes with bristles at right angles remove paraffin most effectively. If you press the brush too hard, the bristles will begin to bend and slide across the surface instead of cleaning it.

Metal brushes are best suited for cleaning skis from old grease and preparing it for applying new grease. Hard metal fibers perfectly remove remnants of new ointments, dirt and plastic oxidation products, thereby opening the pores on the sliding surface, which promotes better absorption of new ointments.

Metal brushes are also needed to improve the properties of the sliding surface of skis. Skis that have been processed on a grinding machine should be treated with a brush (preferably with steel bristles). After this treatment, the structure of the sliding surface will become better, since the brush will remove burrs and other contaminants and irregularities.

Preparing skis for competitions.

First of all, you should prime the surface of the skis.
- Then apply graphite paraffin using a hot method. This move prevents mixing of several layers of paraffin and increases the time of use of lubricants.
- Next, cool the ski to room temperature, and then treat it with a scraper.
- Treat the surface with a horsehair rotary brush, and then with a hand brush with fine metal bristles.
- After this, proceed to apply paraffin, suitable for weather conditions, using a hot method.
- Then hydrocarbon or low fluoride wax is applied, it binds best to the previous layer of wax and the porous surface of the ski.
- Let this layer cool, treat with a scraper and the same brushes.
- After this, apply high-fluoride paraffin using a hot method.
- Let it cool and repeat the procedure with the scraper and brushes.
- The preparation process is completed by applying a fluorocarbon lubricant that is suitable for weather conditions.
- After this, the sliding surface should be treated with polishing brushes.

If you are using fluorocarbon lubricant, it is best to have a second set of brushes. Wax brushes should not be used when working with fluorocarbon grease.

Ski priming for competitions.

In the fresh air, the plastic of the sliding surface of skis begins to oxidize and loses its ability to absorb ointments. This can be seen by the resulting gray coating. To avoid this process, after cleaning the skis, you should apply a layer of ground paraffin.
Clean the surface of the ski from old ointment with a brush. Preferably a rotary one, but any other type is possible, but always with metal bristles. Don't be afraid to take the time to pre-brush the surface of the ski with a fine rotary brass or steel brush. After this treatment, the surface of the ski will absorb the lubricant better, and the lubricant will last longer. For best results, treat the sliding surface with fibertex. It will smooth out minor defects and burrs, and the ski surface will become smoother.

Next, you need to apply a layer of soft paraffin to the surface of the skis. It is best to use ground or shipping wax, but you can use soft wax for warm weather. Then you need to melt the paraffin with an iron at the temperature specified in the instructions. Let the ski cool and treat it with a scraper and brushes. First with a horsehair rotary brush, then with a rotary brush with fine metal bristles. Instead of the latter, you can use a hand brush with fine bristles. The treatment must be completed using a gray or white nylon brush.

The procedure described above is called hot ski cleaning. Soft paraffin is removed from the pores of the sliding surface along with old grease and dirt.

After cleaning, you can begin priming the sliding surface. Medium hard paraffin is applied to the surface of the ski. Then time is given for it to cool down. The remaining paraffin is removed with a scraper and treated with brushes as described earlier. This procedure can be repeated several times. The more times you apply paraffin and brush it, the better your skis will glide. With each repetition of the procedure, the paraffin will further penetrate the structure of the sliding surface of the ski, protecting it from oxidation. The brushing process is similar to the skiing process, so when brushed, the skis become smoother, which improves their glide.

The temperature that the sliding surface of skis can withstand.

Do not treat sliding surfaces at temperatures above 150 degrees. When the temperature is exceeded, the characteristics of the plastic change and it stops absorbing new ointment. In such cases, the ski needs to be cycled in order to open the pores in the upper layers of plastic.

Do not set the iron to too high a temperature. Do not allow smoke to appear when melting paraffin. Heat the ointment with an iron from the middle to the toe and heel of the ski. The risk of burning the plastic is higher where the thickness of the plastic is thinnest. The instructions for each product must indicate the required temperature.

How the ski surface heats up when using a rotor plug and brushes.

Remember that the iron must be in constant motion. The same applies to the rotary plug. First treat the surface at low speed. Then repeat the procedure at high speed. The surface of the ski after treatment should be warm, but not hot.

When to cycle your skis.

There are many cases when the sliding surface of skis oxidizes. Therefore, the ointment is not properly absorbed into the sliding surface. But skis can always be cycled by removing the plastic layer and applying a new structure. Many skis become deformed after some time of sanding. The surface becomes very uneven, which leads to a significant deterioration in gliding. In such cases, it is better to re-sand the ski and remove the old structure.

Handling skis prepared for competitions.

If you only finished preparing your skis the night before, then before the competition itself it is better to brush them again. Skis that have not been brushed will not provide optimal glide.

For professional athletes, a whole team is involved in preparing skis, but in fact, each person can master this technique independently.

First you need to figure out what tools you will need to process your skis:

- paraffin;

— a special iron for applying paraffin;

— sliding brush for cleaning the surface (steel or brass);

- scraper for cleaning the surface.

It is difficult for a beginner in skiing to understand all these tools, so to select special equipment, you need to go to a professional store. Here a person will be told what exactly he should buy to prepare his skis for skating. To avoid problems with applying special substances and preparing skis for skating at home, you need to understand each issue separately.

For skating, only sliding lubricants are needed. They must be applied over the entire surface of the ski. There are currently two types of lubricants on the market:

- hydrocarbons;

- fluorocarbon.

Both types have their advantages and disadvantages. For example, hydrocarbon ski waxes wear off very quickly, so they must be reapplied frequently. In addition, special substances in the composition of such paraffin are activated only at a certain temperature, and then the lubricant begins to work. That is why it will not be possible to use it in all weather conditions.

Fluorocarbon lubricants are divided into three types:

- low fluoride;

- medium fluoride;

- high fluoride.

It all depends on the humidity level. If the snow moisture level is low, low fluoride paraffins must be used. If the humidity level is high, then high-fluoride options are suitable.

So, first stage of ski preparation- this is their cleaning. First, you need to treat the surface with a steel or brass brush, cutting off the burrs, thus opening the pores on the sliding surface.

After this, a layer of paraffin is applied, which should be leveled with an iron heated at a sufficiently low temperature.

This is a dangerous process for skis in the preparation of equipment - this is the application of paraffin. The thing is that paraffin is mainly applied with a special heated iron. If a person applies too much force, there will be no paraffin layer left between the skis and the iron, and the equipment itself will be damaged. The first thing to do is preheat the iron to about 60 degrees. Using a warm iron, lightly touch the paraffin and apply a few drops to the entire surface of the skis.

Next, the lubricant must be melted into the surface of the skis with an iron. Experts recommend applying one to three layers. After this process, you can leave the wax on the skis for 10 or 15 minutes. After this, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a scraper, removing all excess grease.

Despite the fact that a person processes the skis with a scraper, a decent amount of paraffin still remains on the surface. It usually accumulates in scratches and plastic structures. That is why, after working with a scraper, it is necessary to treat the surface with a brush.

The matter is very complicated, and there is also a system of actions here. Using a special scraper, you need to start removing paraffin from the surface. It is necessary to work with a scraper with the same pressure, without being too zealous in individual parts, otherwise the surface will be cleaned differently.

The remaining parts of the lubricant should be removed with a special brush, and the movements should be short and quick. If you want to remove even the base layer of paraffin, you should use the iron again. Having applied one layer of paraffin, you should immediately remove it with a scraper, along with any remaining grease and dirt from the surface of the skis. Such removal of excess or complete removal of lubricant is required if the skis do not ride well.

PREPARATION OF MOUNTAIN SKIS

Before climbing the slope at the beginning of the season, you need to check how sharp the edges of your skis are. This is done quite simply. First of all, a visual inspection. There are no nicks on the edges - everything is fine. Next, you can scrape the edge with your fingernail and, if shavings form on the nail, then the edges are still quite suitable for skating. Otherwise, the edges will have to be sharpened. This is probably the main point when preparing alpine skiing for the season.

I do not recommend sliding on blunt edges, because firstly, it is not safe and secondly, it will be extremely difficult to make turns on a hard slope. You can sharpen your edges while preparing your skis for the season yourself or contact a service center for help.

The edges on alpine skis are sharpened depending on the level of training of the skier. For beginners, a sharpening angle close to 90 degrees is suitable. Athletes sharpen at a sharper angle, but in this case the edges become dull faster.

Preparing skis for the season Not without checking the fasteners. It is necessary to check that the fastenings are not loose or have any mechanical damage that could have occurred either at the end of the previous season or during storage. Next, set the required value for the activation forces of the fasteners depending on your weight and level of training.

To ensure that your skiing is fully prepared for the season, check the sliding surface of your skis to ensure that its properties are maintained. The slipper should have a uniform black color. If a grayish or white coating is observed along the edges, along the edges, it is better to treat the skis with special paraffin and ointments that improve gliding using an iron.

SKI STORAGE

The requirements for storage conditions for all types of skis are generally similar. Some differences arise only depending on the materials. For example, wooden skis must be stored in a darkened room, since they dry out when exposed to direct sunlight.

Plastic skis are more tolerant of light, but it’s also not worth the risk. In both cases, it is desirable that the storage area is clean, dry and cool. Do not store skis near central heating radiators, hot water pipes or heating devices.

Another important rule for storing skis is: wooden skis should be stored in a vertical position with their toes up and their sliding surfaces facing each other. In this case, the skis should not experience any loads. Even tying them together with ropes and belts is unacceptable.

For parallel fixation during summer storage of skis, there are special spacer clamps that hold the skis together and protect them from falling, but do not place any load on them.

With plastic skis everything is a little simpler. They can be stored not only vertically, but also horizontally (as well as horizontally suspended). In addition, plastic skis do not need spacers - they already have the necessary rigidity to maintain a given shape throughout the entire storage period.

Many ski enthusiasts are convinced that the sliding surfaces of plastic skis should not touch, so they tie their skis in the “toes in” position for the summer and store them exclusively in a suspended state. Special layers are often placed between the sliding surfaces of plastic skis to prevent scratches. Plastic skis are secured using Velcro straps with a protective lining.

In many cases, it is advisable to purchase a special ski bag-cover, designed not only for storing skis in the summer, but also for transporting them.