Cover the outside of the bathhouse. Corrugated sheeting for cladding walls of a house

The wide recognition and utilitarian popularity of the building material is eloquently evidenced by the way its name is simplified in everyday life. It is so in demand that there is no longer any need to pronounce the original phrase that characterizes its features. This happened with profiled steel sheets, which entered our vocabulary as corrugated sheets.

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Product of cold rolled thin sheet of high strength steel - corrugated sheets have acquired unprecedented strength over taking into account the rigidity of corrugated waves, different heights and profiles. For half a century it has been mastering more and more new areas of application. First as a roofing material, recently, in connection with the expansion of ventilated facade technology, as a wall material: independent or as part of a panel “sandwich”.

Features of wall profiled sheets

To create flat surfaces of walls and facades in profiled wall sheets, a low trapezoidal wave with a pronounced front side or double-sided is used for the construction of partitions. When finished, cladding with such material is similar to siding, and the decorative finishing of the polymer coating allows you to give the building the appearance of wood, stone, or painted in various colors.

GOST R 52146-2003 regulates the composition and processing source material corrugated sheets for hot-dip galvanizing or polymer coating. The most popular brands of corrugated sheeting for walls are C8, C21 and C44. Labeling contains information about the product that the consumer needs., so the symbols C21-0.4-1000/1051-12000 mean:

• C - wall profiled sheet;
• 21 - corrugation height (in mm);
• 0.4 - sheet thickness (in mm);
• 1000/1051 - working and full width of the sheet (in mm);
• 12,000 - sheet length (in mm).

Taking into account the specifics of installing corrugated sheets - overlapping (on one wave), manufacturers usually indicate the full and working width of the sheet in the price lists. This helps to correctly calculate material consumption.

The higher the corrugation, the stronger the sheet. The strength of the sheet is also significantly affected by the thickness of the material. Therefore, a sheet of grade C21 will be stronger than a wall panel C8, and C21-0.4 will be inferior in strength to C21-0.7.

C44 grade corrugated sheeting, taking into account its resistance to loads, can even be used as roofing material or for structural elements.

Builders in regions with harsh winters use ready-made “sandwich” panels lined with corrugated sheets. Such construction materials have an internal (10cm) and external (15cm) insulating layer. The profiled sheet, laid horizontally or vertically, in this case acts as a supporting element to strengthen the structure.

Corrugated sheeting is convenient in that its length can be selected depending on the size of the surface to be covered, positioned according to the height of the wall or width. Design projects for greater decorative expressiveness use options for the diagonal arrangement of profiled sheets.

Where is wall corrugated sheeting used?

Initially, when the main way to protect corrugated sheets from corrosion and influence environment There was only galvanization, corrugated sheeting was used for the construction of fences, temporary partitions, utility and industrial buildings.

The successes of production in the creation of new polymer compositions - plastisol, polyester, polyvinyl fluoride, pural - made it possible to develop a coating for profiled sheets that can not only perform the protective function of the base, but also solve aesthetic problems in construction, which is especially important when cladding facades and internal walls. Modern wall panels successfully used for finishing architectural objects for private and civil purposes:

• wooden and brick houses private estates;
• installation of ventilated curtain walls;
• for the construction of garages;
• cladding of outbuildings;
• internal partitions;
• installation of fences and fences;
• for the construction of hangars and warehouses;
• cladding of public and administrative facilities.

What are the advantages of wall cladding with corrugated sheets?

1. Strengthening the structural elements of a small building.
2. Protection of the facade from external influences, increasing its shelf life.
3. Creating wall ventilation to prevent the appearance of condensation, fungus, and mold.
4. Effective method of thermal insulation of walls.
5. Solution of the problem of noise insulation.
6. Widespread use of design solutions to improve the appearance of the building.

At the same time, corrugated transfers its best performance characteristics to the building:

1. Light weight, which does not increase the load on the walls and foundation.
2. Tightness when using different types of sealants.
3. Excellent paint retention.
4. Easy to dismantle and repair.
5. Easy to care for (easy to clean).
6. Significantly increases the shelf life of the facade (for wooden walls - by 20 years).
7. Successfully imitates natural materials: wood, stone, painted board.

What you need to cover a house with corrugated sheets if you take on the task yourself

1. Choose the type of facing sheet based on the type of structure, tasks for its insulation, creation of ventilation gaps, and aesthetic preferences.
2. Decide on the direction of the sheets during installation (vertically - more reliable protection from precipitation, horizontally - the frame will be more rigid, diagonally).
3. Calculate the material consumption taking into account the overlapping laying technology and a 10% margin.
4. Consider the features of façade finishing (combination of material, texture, location).
5. Prepare additional elements (standard metal parts for finishing the base, corners, window and door openings, closing possible cracks, drainpipes).
6. Study installation technology and prepare the necessary tools.
7. Install the cladding from corrugated sheets.

Installation diagram

Apply 2 ways of finishing facades:

• covering the wall immediately on the prepared base;
• covering each prefabricated element of the future wall separately.

1. A frame (sheathing) is mounted on the wall with a crossbar pitch of 50-60cm.
2. Installation of the sheathing begins from the upper right corner of the wall if the sheets are equal to the height of the wall. When overlapping vertically, the first row will be the bottom row from the corner of the wall. Fasten with self-tapping screws into drilled holes.
3. The next sheet is laid overlapping, preventing distortions.
4. Gaps of 2-4 cm at the top and bottom are left for the ventilation system.
5. Between the wall and the corrugated sheet it is possible to lay a heat insulator on a roll of sealant.

Algorithm of actions for covering facades with corrugated sheets

Wooden house (first method).

1. Creation, with verification building level, static structures made of steel, in the worst case - wooden beams treated with an antiseptic. (step no more than 1m).
2. Fastening the vapor-proof film with disc dowels or self-tapping screws with plastic gaskets.
3. Installation of profiled sheets with a riveter or screwdriver. The fastening distance is 20-30cm.
4. Installation of additional elements and welded frames for drainpipes.

Brick house (second method).

1. Creating a welded frame from reinforcing pipes, strengthening the welding points metal corner, preventing deformation from compression.
2. Creating a base in the form of a mesh (with cells 20x20cm) from welded rods welded at the ends to the pipes. (it will serve as a ventilation layer).
3. Insulation with film materials or boards (plasterboard).
4. Installation of the structure vertically with leveling. Wall mounting.
5. Installation of sheets (see Wooden house).
6. Painting over primer of fastener heads.
7. Installation of additional elements.

1. To prevent the appearance of a gap at the junction of the sheets, it is necessary to accurately determine the upper edge of the overlap and the lower one. The top one will always be a few mm wider. Check before laying sheets!
2. To maintain the tightness of the connection of the corrugated sheet, its fastening must be carried out sequentially: at the lower points of the profile, in an overlap - at the top! the next sheet - again along the bottom ones.
3. Profiled sheets cannot be fastened with nails. The holes for the screws are drilled!
4. The process of covering a brick house with corrugated sheets is much more complicated than a wooden one. An invited specialist will do this work, estimating 200 rubles per square meter.
5. Considering the variety of polymer coatings for corrugated boards, the base of the house can be finished with corrugated sheets to look like wild stone, the walls can be made in ivory color and the roof can be covered with a red-brown sheet. It will look very impressive.

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Corrugated sheeting is a universal material. It is used for roofing work, it is also used for cladding the walls of buildings. But in order to carry out self-cladding, you need to know exactly some of the nuances of the work - for example, what kind of material is suitable for wall cladding, what tools are needed for installation, etc. Let's take a closer look at how to properly cover the walls of a house with corrugated sheeting.

Choosing corrugated sheets for walls

First of all, you need to decide on the entire range available on the market and choose the material that is best suited for facade work. Manufacturers produce three types of profiled sheets:

• Corrugated sheeting marked “C” designed for finishing facades, walls and creating small fences
• Corrugated sheeting marked “N” used for roofing work
• Corrugated sheeting marked “NS” is mixed in purpose, can be used for different types of finishing work

The best option for finishing the facade of a building is profiled sheets marked “C”. Accordingly, you can choose several subtypes of this material on the market - C8, C10, C15, etc. The materials do not have significant differences, but from the point of view of a professional, you can notice some important nuances:

• Sheets C8 are light, strong and thin. Its main advantage is its low weight, which allows finishing work to be carried out simply and quickly.
• Profiled sheet C10 has a relatively wide wave, and the thickness of the sheet is greater than that of corrugated sheets marked C8. This material is perfect for finishing the facade of a building. Due to their weight and strength, C10 profiled sheets can be used in all types of work where vertical installation of finishing material is necessary
• Profiled sheet C15 It is also successfully used in finishing works due to the characteristics of the wave, the thickness of the material and the size of the sheets. Like other facade materials, C15 profiled sheets are galvanized and polymer coated

It is worth noting that other markings are also suitable for cladding a house - profiled sheets C13, C18, C20, etc. are found on the market. Further selection The material depends on the builder himself - the sheets differ in the height of the wave, its width and the thickness of the material itself.

How to calculate the required amount of corrugated sheets for wall cladding?

Has the material been chosen? In this case, it is necessary to calculate how much it will be needed for the walls of the building. First of all, you need to know the length of the profiled sheets. Based on this value, the volume of material is calculated. Let's look at this process in more detail:

• It is necessary to determine the area of ​​the surface to be covered. Let's say one of the walls of the house is 6 meters long and 2.8 meters high. The length of the other wall is 8 meters, and the height is similar - 2.8 meters. Thus, we calculate the total area of ​​the surface to be covered: (6X2.8) + (8X2.8) = 39.2 square meters of the area of ​​​​two perpendicular walls. Since the house has four walls, we double the figure - it turns out 78.4 sq.m.
• Since there are door and window openings, it is necessary to calculate their area and subtract it from the total surface area that was calculated earlier.
• Let's assume that there is one door (width - 1.4 m, height - 1.9 m) and six window openings, each of which has parameters of 1.5X1.3 m. Total, the total surface area that does not need to be covered with corrugated sheets is will be equal to the sum of the areas of all openings - 14.36 square meters. m. This indicator is subtracted from the total area of ​​the surface to be covered. As a result, it turns out that the ideal finishing area is 64.04 sq.m. The next step is to calculate the area of ​​one profiled sheet.
• Next, you need to divide the total surface area by the area of ​​one sheet - this way the builder will know how many sheets are needed to finish the house Using the standard formula, the area of ​​the pediment is calculated, which will need to be covered with corrugated sheets, after which the result obtained is multiplied by two and summed with the total area

It must be remembered that additional material may be needed during the work process. Therefore, the master, having carried out all the calculations, should increase the result obtained by 10-15% - the final number will mean the amount of material with a reserve.

How to cover a house with corrugated sheets?

After preparing the required amount of profiled sheet, you can begin installation work. Typically, the façade of a building consists of the following “layers”:

• Paro insulating material
• Thermal insulation
• Wind barrier
• Metal or wooden frame
• Corrugated sheet

Sheathing the pediment with corrugated sheets

The procedure is no different from standard house cladding. Initially, the pediment is subjected to reliable waterproofing, after which a metal or wooden frame using the technology described above, and then sheets of insulation are laid out and sheathed with corrugated sheets.

The only difficulty is correct pruning material for the pediment. But if you have the correct markings and the necessary tools, you don’t have to worry about this nuance.

Where else is corrugated sheeting used?

The material is often used for cladding hangars, garages, storage facilities and other buildings. Thus, the hangar can be used as a storage or warehouse, parking lot or other utility room. And the best covering option for this building is corrugated sheeting - installation is carried out in a matter of hours, immediately on frame structure, the features of the material make it possible to cover both arched and standard designs.

Corrugated sheeting can also be used in the construction of any other buildings on own plot. For example, you can build a full-fledged one. Speed ​​of installation, reliability, strength and excellent performance properties allow us to make lightweight and durable structures.

Corrugated sheeting is quite often used as a roofing material. Corrugated roofing is of high quality and reliable. But the roof will not be considered complete without one very important element, namely, without a wind strip. helps protect the roof from moisture and gusts of wind. It also provides an ideal connection to the spotlights.

There are other nuances in laying corrugated sheeting on the roof. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with installing corrugated sheets yourself. It contains step by step instructions, as well as installation diagrams for corrugated sheets.

Video about covering a house with corrugated sheets with your own hands

Training film on installation of corrugated sheets. How to cover the walls of a house with corrugated sheets.

When thinking about facade cladding, every homeowner asks the question - what material can be used to inexpensively cover the facade? Recently, an inexpensive and aesthetically attractive material called profiled sheet has become very popular. From this article you will learn how to cover a facade with corrugated sheeting and what nuances are important to take into account.

Curtain ventilated facades are used in the construction of new and reconstruction of old building facades. Thus, the thermal insulation and aesthetic qualities of the house are improved. Previously, it was believed that only industrial, public and administrative buildings could be sheathed with corrugated sheets, but nowadays private houses are also sheathed with this finishing material. Tastefully chosen material will transform your home beyond recognition at minimal cost.

Choosing material

Before starting work, you need to purchase corrugated sheeting. You will need a wall profile sheet. It has its own marking, which is designated by the letter “C”. To buy a sufficient amount of material, take measurements of the walls of the house. If we are talking about cladding the facade of a wooden house, then it can be done both horizontally and vertically.

To ensure free air circulation, an air gap must be created between the corrugated sheeting and the insulating material. This makes it impossible for condensation to accumulate. This prevents the development of fungi, microorganisms and mold, which leads to the gradual destruction of the walls. The cladding will not be complete without installing additional elements, for example, for framing door frames and windows.

Additional elements are:

• drainage,
• basement,
• corner, ridge roofing,
• elements covering the gaps between sheets,
• elements for framing pipes.

Additional roofing elements can serve as facade decoration. They can be painted in the desired colors.

Preparation for cladding

Prepare the area so that you can carry out installation work. To do this, clean up the work area and remove all unnecessary items. In addition, you need to rid the walls of protruding elements such as window frames, external blocks air conditioners and antennas. Install scaffolding along the walls.

To sheathe a house with corrugated sheets, you will need a grinder, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, pliers, a hammer, measuring devices and a chisel. Moreover, at this stage you need to clean the walls from dirt and debris, as well as remnants of old construction finishing. Obvious wall defects should be repaired.

Making the markings

Before sheathing the façade with corrugated sheets, markings should be made according to a previously drawn up drawing, which should reflect all the features of the house. To do this, measure the dimensions of the house, taking into account door and window openings and other structural elements. After this, apply markings directly to the walls of the house, which will indicate the placement of the guide profiles. This way you can choose the most optimal step for their placement. According to the standard, this step ranges from 0.4 to 0.8 m. The choice of step depends on the loads exerted on the structure and the type of corrugated sheet.

Start marking from window and door slopes and corners of the house. This is due to the fact that all joints must be covered with additional elements. They, in turn, are also attached to the guide profiles. To ensure that the marking is even, carry it out using a plumb line or a building level. The optimal spacing for hangers is 60 cm. To achieve symmetry, outline their location in advance.

Note! The hangers of adjacent guide profiles must be shifted vertically so that they are installed in a checkerboard pattern. This will make the frame more rigid.

We make a frame

Initially install the wall hangers using a hammer drill. To reduce vibration and noise, secure them through isolon gaskets. Then fix the vertical profile guides on the hangers.

Note! All vertical guides must be installed in the same plane. To achieve this result, install the outer guides along the pre-tensioned cord. Then you need to install all the other elements.

To make the frame as rigid as possible, horizontal jumpers should be installed between the vertical guides. Such an event is only advisable if finished design will be excessively heavy. If you decide to insulate the walls, then after installing the frame, lay the thermal insulation material. This may be polystyrene foam or mineral wool. To protect the thermal insulation layer from aggressive external influences, cover it with a waterproofing, vapor-permeable film.

After installing the frame and carrying out thermal and waterproofing, install the shaped elements and accessories. Among them different connections, special corner profiles, base drains, etc.

Sheathing with corrugated sheets

The façade cladding should begin from the bottom of the house, that is, from the foundation. To do this, install the profiled sheet into the profile cavity and secure it with self-tapping screws with a sealing gasket.

Note! The corrugated sheeting should be fixed to the frame so that the self-tapping screw fits into the plane of the profile by at least 20 mm.

The installation screws are screwed into the lower part of the corrugated sheet wave. In addition, they should be located in one line; to do this, use a chop cord. The pitch between the screws is selected individually. To cut the sheets, use a grinder. To make the façade even, install the corrugated sheeting level. To avoid deformation due to linear expansion, leave a 3-4 mm gap between the sheet and the internal parts of the extensions. The following sheets are mounted in the same way. Each element of corrugated sheeting is superimposed on half the wave of the previous one; this measure minimizes the risk of precipitation getting under the structure.

If you have any questions about this topic, write comments to the article.

Video

See video instructions for covering the facade with corrugated sheets below:

It very rarely happens that the owner of a house, having built a building, leaves it as it is.

Without performing external wall finishing.

This is what they do when the walls of the house are made of facing bricks or wood.

Wood is a very beautiful material in itself.

And such a house does not require additional insulation.

Wood will qualitatively protect it from both cold and wind.

This is done for various reasons:

• insulation. Experience shows that if the walls of a house are additionally sheathed on the outside with special material with additional layer insulation, the energy efficiency of the house increases significantly. Heating costs are reduced accordingly;
• improving the appearance of the building. After all, the aesthetic component is very important. Every developer wants the house to be not only reliable, cozy, but also beautiful;
• increasing resistance to aggressive manifestations external environment. By protecting the walls of the house from the effects of precipitation, you can extend the life of the wall material by an order of magnitude, maintain its strength and prevent destruction.

Corrugated sheeting for cladding walls of a house

Profiled steel sheet is a high-quality universal building material that is used in various construction works.

It is used mainly for roofing work, manufacturing fences, for cladding walls inside and outside.

This material is distinguished by its attractive appearance, ease of installation, reliability and affordable price.

A very wide range of colors of profiled sheets does not limit your imagination in any way.

Corrugated sheeting is ideal material for external wall finishing.

The exceptional durability of the material is due to the presence of a protective zinc coating and a coating layer of high-quality polymer.

Corrugated sheeting reliably protects the walls of the building from any negative impact.

Unlike other finishing materials, a layer of air is created between the wall and the corrugated sheeting, which ensures reliable ventilation of the space under the material.

This way condensation will not accumulate and mold will never form.

By the way, air also plays the role of additional insulation.

When using corrugated sheeting, you can obtain almost perfect sound and heat insulation of a building.

Corrugated sheeting has quite a few advantages over other finishing materials:

Choosing the right material for wall cladding

To date, corrugated sheet manufacturers have mastered the production of three types of sheets:

• for roofing;
• for walls;
• universal.

Accordingly, products have different purposes and are labeled differently.

Profiled sheets differ from each other in the thickness of the material used in their manufacture. steel sheet and profile geometry.

It is the geometry that determines what the installation height and width of the sheet will be.

Roofing corrugated sheeting is marked with the letter N. It is used for roofing, but in some cases it is also used on walls.

Wall corrugated sheeting is marked with the letter C.

If the profiled sheet is marked CH, then this is universal material, and it can be used anywhere.

The most popular for wall cladding are profiled sheets C8, C21, C44.

Price of one linear meter Corrugated sheets on average cost 250 rubles.

Preparatory work before wall covering

High-quality preliminary preparation is the key to success.

The more carefully you prepare everything, the faster and better the installation process will be.

First of all, you should prepare the tool.

You understand that the work cannot be done without a tool.

You will need:

• hammer;
• pliers;
• chisel;
• tape measure or meter;
• screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer drill.

Also, in addition to the professional sheet itself, you need to purchase:

• H-bars;
• P-planks;
• start profile;
• finishing profile;
• internal and external corners;
• window sills, cornices, ebbs and other elements for decoration.

Now you need to prepare the place where you will need to install the corrugated sheet.

From working area You should remove all items that you will not need during installation.

The walls should be cleaned as much as possible.

First of all, remove everything that is installed on them: window frames, external air conditioning units, antennas, etc.

If the house has several floors, then you should take care of scaffolding in advance.

Because an ordinary “goat” may not be enough for you.

The wall surface should be cleaned of dirt, debris, and elements of old finishing.

If there are defects in sections of the wall, they must be repaired!

After installing the profiled sheets, this will be difficult to do.

Photos of house siding

Technology of covering a house with corrugated sheets

Marking

In order for the installation of profiled sheets on the wall to occur quickly and with high quality, it is necessary to carry out markings.

It would be nice if, before carrying out the work, a sketch drawing was drawn up reflecting all the features.

First, you should measure the overall dimensions of the building.

Take into account the location of door and window openings.

Then you should apply markings to the places where the guide profiles are to be installed.

In the future we will have to attach sheets to these elements.

Typically, profiles are spaced in increments of 0.4 - 0.8 meters.

The step size depends on what type of sheets will be used.

Marking begins from the corner and slopes of doorways.

This is required by the technology of covering walls with corrugated sheets.

After all, all joints are equipped with additional decorative elements, which are also fixed to the profiles.

To avoid any difficulties during installation, you should use a plumb line when marking the installation locations of the profiles.

Installing the supporting frame

The manufacture of the frame should be treated with maximum responsibility.

After all, it is the basis on which the strength and reliability of the skin depends.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• In pre-marked places on the wall, holes are drilled using a hammer drill and wall hangers are installed. To reduce the level of vibration and noise that the corrugated sheet can transmit to the enclosing structure, the suspensions should be secured through special gaskets made of isolon;
• Now it is necessary to fix the vertical profile guides to the hangers using self-tapping screws. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that all elements are located in the same plane. To do this, first install the outer guides, between which the cord is pulled. All other elements are aligned along this cord;
• if the need arises, install horizontal jumpers between the vertical guides. This gives the frame greater rigidity. For this purpose, special “crabs” or the same guide profiles are used, in which the side shelves are cut out.

After the frame elements are installed, a heat insulator is laid between the profiles.

Typically now used mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The heat insulator is covered with a vapor-proof waterproofing film and corrugated sheeting is installed.

Installation of corrugated sheets

The installation of sheets begins from the base point.

This is the bottom of the building.

The corrugated sheet must be installed between the guide strips and secured securely using self-tapping screws.

When fixing sheets, you should ensure that the screws fit into the plane of the profile by at least 2 cm.

The installation screws should be located at the bottom of the wave, which is in direct contact with the surface of the profile.

The screws are placed on the same line and aligned with the cord.

Between the “body” of the sheet and internal part In addition, gaps of 3-4 mm should be left to completely eliminate internal deformation of the material.

Yes, and it’s easy to install.

Everyone can do this on their own.

No special qualifications or training are required.

The main thing to do is not to disrupt the sequence of work, do not rush and use a plumb line and level.

And everything will work out!

Corrugated sheeting is a universal material used not only in the construction of fences, but also in the process of cladding houses. Among its advantages, we note affordable cost, ease of installation, durability and long service life. We’ll look further at how to sheathe a house using corrugated sheeting.

Sheathing a house with corrugated sheets: the advantages of this type of finishing

When choosing the type of finishing for the facade of a building, you should take into account the individual characteristics of the area in which it is located, the financial condition of its owners, as well as the appearance of the resulting coating.

Corrugated sheeting is a fairly popular material used to decorate houses and cottages. Among its advantages we note:

• high level of mechanical strength and elasticity;
• this material is quite easy to care for, washes well and does not accumulate dust;
• the building has an attractive and neat appearance;
• the material is affordable;
• corrugated sheeting is easy to install and easy to dismantle, if necessary;
• In addition, among its advantages we note resistance to fading, corrosion, temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation.

However, the façade finished with this material has some disadvantages:

• it becomes very hot under the influence of temperature; if you touch it, there is a risk of getting burned;
• it is resistant to corrosion, however, if you cut it with a grinder, then when heated, the galvanized coating is destroyed and the material becomes covered with rust;
• When it rains heavily, unpleasant sounds arise that can be heard in the house.

Sheathing a house with corrugated sheets photo and features of material selection

Of particular importance in the process of covering a house with corrugated sheets is the quality of the material. After all, the final result of the work and the duration of operation of the facade depend on this indicator. Profiled sheet for working with various surfaces, comes in three forms:

1. Marking C indicates the fact that the sheets are used for the manufacture of fencing, finishing facade surfaces, etc.

2. Marking N - implies the use of profiled sheets for finishing the roof.

3. Universal NS sheets are used in both the first and second cases, as well as when performing other types of finishing work.

• sheets marked c8 are quite light, durable, but at the same time brittle, due to the light weight of the material, all installation work is carried out very quickly;
• corrugated sheeting marked c10 has a fairly wide wave and a greater thickness than previous version, by using of this material This is precisely the finishing of façade surfaces, due to its light weight and high strength, the material is used in the work of installing it in a vertical position;
• corrugated sheeting marked C15 is even thicker and is used if its installation location is subject to additional mechanical stress.

In addition, there are many markings of this material, in relation to its thickness and performance characteristics. The choice of one or more materials must be justified individual characteristics places of its installation.

The color of the corrugated board plays a significant role in the attractiveness of the building after its finishing. We recommend choosing natural colors, such as green, blue, light blue, gray, white, brown, red. Try to choose a color based on the principle that the facade should not differ in color from the roof. It is better to give preference to a neutral color, against which certain elements of the facade will be highlighted.

Using corrugated sheets blue color allows you to give the building peace and elegance. In addition, this color harmonizes perfectly with other shades, especially white. If there are no on the walls small parts, then it is possible to install purple or dark blue corrugated sheeting.

The roof and facade should be painted in shades derived from the same color. To highlight small details, use darker colors, and to paint even and large surfaces, it is enough light colors. When decorating a building, do not use more than three various shades. Don't choose too much bright colors roof and facade, so as not to create a sharp contrast.

In addition, during the work process you will need to have:

• corners with the help of which corner joints are formed;
• start and finish connectors;
• elements with which door and window structures are designed;
• special ebbs mounted on the surface of the base.

Calculation for insulation of house sheathing with corrugated sheets

After determining the type of material used in the cladding process, the process of calculating its quantity follows. To do this, check the length of one profiled sheet and decide on its height. Depending on these indicators, it is necessary to calculate the volume of required material. To do this, use the diagram below:

1. Decide on the surface area you need to cover. For example, the length of one wall in a house is 5 m, and the second is 7 m. At the same time, the height of the building is 3 m. In order to determine the surface area, (7x3) + (5x3) = 36 square meters is enough. Multiply this number by two in order to add the area of ​​two more walls, you get 72 square meters.

2. Since the walls also contain elements in the form of door and window openings, their area is calculated from the total number. To do this, measure the height and width of windows and doors, multiply the height by the width and add all the indicators in total. The resulting number is subtracted from the total area of ​​the house. In this way, it is possible to obtain an ideal finishing area. For example, if the door area is 1.5 square meters, the area is about 8 square meters, then the result will be 72-9.5 = 61.5.

3. Next, you should determine the area of ​​the profiled sheets. For example, with a height of 3 m and a length of 2 m, it will be 6 square meters. The total area is divided by this indicator: 61.5 divided by 6 equals 10.25 - the number of sheets for cladding the house.

5. The resulting number of sheets should be increased by compensation costs in the form of 10-15%.

Corrugated sheeting for cladding a house like a log

In order to increase the attractiveness of the building, it is sheathed using corrugated sheeting to resemble a log. That is, in the end the house has a log structure. This material costs a little more than regular corrugated sheets. The structure of such a material contains not only metal, but also polymer materials.

However, unlike real wood, this version of corrugated sheeting does not require additional care and reliably protects the building from external environmental factors.

Corrugated sheeting is easy to install, imitates wood well, and is used for both private and country houses or country houses. For the manufacture of this material, homogeneous high-quality sheets of steel are used, onto which a special coating with a polymer base is applied.

Among the advantages of this material we note:

• resistance to low temperatures, mechanical damage, dirt, dust, etc.;
• resistance to prolonged ultraviolet radiation, fire resistance provided by polymer substances contained in the corrugated sheeting;
• environmental friendliness and harmlessness to the environment;
• availability of special lock connection, which is easy to install, but at the same time highly reliable;
• a variety of colors and shades imitating different types of wood.

The use of this material is possible in various climatic regions. With its help it is possible to cover old wooden house corrugated sheeting. In addition, they are used to construct fences and other protective structures.

How to assemble a frame for covering a house with corrugated sheets

In order to assemble a frame for cladding a house using corrugated sheeting, you will need:

• steel profiles acting as guides;
• profile hangers;
• dowels and nails with which the frame is mounted;
• self-tapping screws with which corrugated sheeting is mounted.

Please note that when covering a wooden house with corrugated sheets with your own hands, some materials will be superfluous. Since to fix the sheathing on wooden surface, enough nails, unlike concrete or brick walls.

Initially, you should make markings for installing the profile for the sheathing. Suspensions are installed in relation to the markings, which allow you to control the evenness of the resulting walls. The profile installation step is from half a meter to 70 cm. Before installing the profile, you should take care of installing waterproofing and thermal insulation. As waterproofing material We recommend using a special diffusion membrane. Among thermal insulation materials, the best option will be mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Next, the profiles are fixed. In this case, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5 cm between the thermal insulation and the corrugated sheet. Thus, the condensate formed due to the difference will be removed through the air space temperature regime.

To make the frame, both wooden and steel types of profiles are used. When installing wooden blocks, you should pre-treat them with antiseptics, which can extend the life of the wood. During installation steel profile availability will be required various kinds brackets.

Initially, insulating material is installed in the form of insulation. Fungal dowels are used to fix it. Next, you should install a vapor barrier and wind protection.

Technology for performing work on sheathing entire houses

After installing the frame, the process of directly covering the house using corrugated sheets follows. The sheets are installed with each other with a slight overlap, the width of which is equal to the width of one wave.

In order to fix the material on the surface, you should use special hardware in the form of roofing screws. Thus, holes are drilled directly during the installation of metal.

In order to seal the places where the corrugated sheeting is fixed, elements in the form of elastic washers should be used. They are installed under the screws.

To cut sheets, use only a hacksaw or metal scissors. The use of an angle grinder is unacceptable, as it violates the integrity of the anti-corrosion coating. The sheets will begin to rust after a few weeks of use.

Special additional elements should be installed on door and window openings. In the process of covering the gable of a house, you should also ensure its waterproofing, install a frame made of metal or wood, install insulation inside it and install corrugated sheets. Please note that the material must be cut correctly to fit the pediment. Therefore, this will require special measuring tools. Leveling the corrugated sheets is done using a level.

Installation of corrugated sheets is carried out both in longitudinal and transverse directions. Horizontal installation The material is particularly rigid, and the vertical one protects it from rain, mechanical influences, etc.

The installation pitch of the screws is about 30 cm. After installing the corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to check the strength of all connections and paint the joints between the connections.

Sheathing a brick house with corrugated sheets

Sheathing brick buildings It is more difficult to perform than wooden ones, since special fasteners are required to fix the sheathing on their surface. Besides, Special attention attention should be paid to the strength of the frame. For these purposes, metal pipes should be connected to each other by welding, and then these connections should be strengthened using steel corners.

Weld metal mesh, with a cell width of about 20 cm. As insulation for a brick house, it is sufficient to use plasterboard or wooden boards or a special insulation film. The mesh is fixed on the surface. After which, the corrugated sheeting is installed, the overlap being about 40 cm. To ensure that the surface is rigid, use self-tapping screws about 15 mm long to fix the sheets. Next, coat the rivet installation sites with a primer that matches the color of the facade.

In order for the temperature in the bathhouse to be maintained for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it to be as low as possible, bathhouses need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which extends the life of the building.

The choice of insulation type depends on the material from which the bathhouse is built

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for construction. For bathhouses made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this usually involves careful sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes the steam room and washing room are insulated from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it most likely needs to be insulated, but how depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built from bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the required temperature conditions, the wall thickness must be at least 80 cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. That’s why such baths are always insulated.

• 1 How to insulate a log bathhouse from the outside
• 2 Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside
• 3 Insulation brick bath outside
• 4 Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks
• 5 Conclusions

Almost all insulation of a log bath comes down to carefully sealing the cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but over time the wood dries out, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be caulked regularly.

Insulation of a log bath

After erecting the frame and caulking the cracks, the building must remain under the roof for at least six months. It is advisable not to use the bathhouse during this time. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, and new cracks and gaps will appear. These are the ones that need to be caulked. For this purpose, a special insulation based on jute and flax is used. Jute itself conducts heat poorly and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it tears easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the insulation for log houses. Thin strips of material are driven into the cracks using a hammer and a special metal caulking blade. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It’s easier to work with: a special syringe fills all available voids.

Insulating a log bath using sealant

A log house shrinks within two years. At this time, it is not recommended to cover it with finishing materials. This way you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the outside of the building can be covered with film, securing it with strips.

Two years after construction, you can begin finishing. For many this will sound ridiculous, but structures made of logs can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, and dies. To begin with, a sheathing is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increases resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.

Lathing for insulation and finishing

Finishing material is attached to the sheathing, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you choose metal guides, they are mounted on special hangers.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and the inside is only sometimes additionally insulated in the steam room and washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or water barrier is laid on top of it. It is secured using strips, onto which the trim is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside

The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside is absolutely no different from the insulation of a bathhouse made of logs. The building must also stand, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber

The need for external insulation depends on the thickness of the timber. If for your climate zone its thickness is insufficient; insulation must be done according to the following scheme:

• lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to align them in both horizontal and vertical planes);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climate zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter lathing (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

Insulating the bathhouse from the outside

The outside of a bathhouse is usually sheathed from timber: any type of clapboard, edged boards, siding, metal profiles, block house, etc. After completion of work wood trim coated with varnishes for exterior use, sometimes pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If as finishing siding is used, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as lathing, which can be purchased in the same place where siding is purchased. The guides are mounted on special hangers.

Metal siding guides are mounted on special hangers

Insulation of a brick bathhouse from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside - this material has high thermal conductivity, so without external insulation it will be extremely difficult to warm the room to the required conditions. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

Insulation scheme for a brick bath

For external insulation, it is usually recommended to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of a bathhouse - they emit formaldehyde, but for external insulation they are one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside with polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foam glass (its disadvantage is its high price). To ensure high-quality work, it is recommended to lay two layers intercut (offset by half the length) to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often, insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are taped with reinforced tape.

Fabric-reinforced PVC tape (Forsace)

To cover the outside of a brick bathhouse, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior finishing: you can decorate the outside of the bathhouse with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene boards, foam glass or foam plastic were used as insulation. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath and finishing with plaster

Can be insulated brick bathhouse according to the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

Insulation scheme for a brick bathhouse based on the principle of a ventilated facade

For reliability, they can be reinforced with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold quite firmly (that’s why they make the fastening step of the guides 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held in place by elastic force). The joints of the plates are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top waterproofing film, secure it with straps. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for installing the exterior trim. Using this scheme, you can also insulate baths made of foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks

Any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied to block baths. In addition, there is another option: to cover such a bathhouse decorative bricks, but this option of finishing and insulation is possible if the temperature in the bathhouse is maintained above zero all the time.

Exterior decoration of the bathhouse with decorative bricks

If you decide to line a bathhouse made of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not closely, but retreating 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will be much improved. The gap can be left empty or filled thermal insulation material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special treatment, etc.

Insulation scheme for aerated concrete baths

To prevent moisture from accumulating in the space between the walls, external wall leave small ventilation gaps, and for reliable fixation finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carrier.

Recently, finishing material such as block house, which emits log wall. Block houses are made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A bathhouse made of blocks, lined with a block house, looks as if it is made of wood.

Block bathhouse covered with a block house

conclusions

A log bathhouse, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional insulation walls neither outside nor inside.

When choosing external insulation for brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without harming your health, you can use mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for insulating the inside of a bathhouse. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have the financial means, the bathhouse can be covered with a metal block house, which will serve for many years.

Construction of a bathhouse on suburban area, this is not a tribute to fashion, but a concern for cleanliness and health. Each person strives to make this building not only durable and functional, but also attractive, so that it harmoniously fits into the overall design of the site. And today all conditions have been created for this.

Most baths have a wooden base, as logs or beams are used for construction. Log buildings, as a rule, do not need additional finishing, because the log house looks excellent and stylish at all times. But structures made of timber, and even more so frame buildings, must have external finishing.

Modern design allows any person’s thoughts to run wild, but still these materials are most often used for bathhouse cladding:

1. Wooden lining;
2. Block house;
3. Panels imitating timber;
4. Siding.

Most of the sauna cladding elements presented are made of wood, but plastic and metal are also gaining popularity among users, as they have durability, attractive appearance and resistance to external factors. Plus, they don't need paint to make them look additional protection and beauty.

Wood finish

When the owners begin to decide how to cover the outside of the bathhouse, they first of all remember wooden options finishing. Lining and block house are excellent examples of this, which can be found on every suburban area. Baths lined with these materials always look stylish and modern, and easily fit into any design.

To work with wooden lining, block house and imitation timber, you should prepare the necessary tools:

• Wood saw or jigsaw;
• Electric drill or screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Building level;
• Tape measure and pencil.

This set will be quite enough to work on tiling the bathhouse yourself. But if you don’t have much experience, and the design of the building involves a lot of skillfully cut and installed elements, then it is best to use the services of specialists.

In order for the bathhouse to last for a long time, it should be treated with fire-retardant liquids before covering it. It must be taken into account that the substances used should not release toxins and paint is not suitable for this purpose. Otherwise, the owners risk getting poisoned when the bathhouse begins to function at full capacity.

The sauna log house should begin to be sheathed with the installation of the frame. To do this, wooden slats are attached, which are checked by the building level. The frame for the cladding must strictly adhere to all verticals and have no deviations, otherwise the corners of the bathhouse will turn out crooked. First, the outer guides are installed and only then can the central space be filled.

The slats are secured with self-tapping screws or nails. The latter material is much more convenient to use, since if necessary, it will be easier and faster to correct the work. And the frame itself is assembled in short term. Each slats should be treated with a bioprotective liquid so that they are not attacked by fungi. If there is free space under the rail, then an insert or wedge should be placed at the fastening points. This will avoid sagging on the walls of the bathhouse.

As soon as the frame for the cladding is installed, you should proceed to attaching the lining or block house for the bathhouse. The first board must be placed strictly in a horizontal direction, unless the overall design suggests another option. For convenience, you can draw a line along which to install the first element. The lower edge of the lining is fixed with nails or screws directly through the material. But then the fastening is done using a hidden method, hiding in the grooves of wooden elements.

Each new board is tightly inserted into the previous one, and its position is checked with a building level. Thus, the log house of the bathhouse will be completely sheathed and all that remains is to paint it in the chosen color. For this purpose polyurethane varnishes are used, alkyd paints for a transparent finish. The bathhouse will look much more attractive if the lining retains its natural texture. Therefore, most often the paint does not cover the material, but simply gives it the desired shade.

Siding

Wooden cladding requires regular painting of the bathhouse surface. But the paint must first be completely removed or sanded so that the work is not spoiled. But not all owners manage to carry out repair work on time and paint the bathhouse before it becomes completely dilapidated. Therefore, such users are recommended to use materials that do not require additional finishing.

Most often, vinyl or metal siding is used for cladding, which can also be installed on the log house yourself. This also requires the installation of a frame consisting of metal profiles. The surface of the bathhouse should be treated with protective liquids to prevent fungi and harmful insects from appearing under the casing. And once all the procedures are completed, you can proceed to installation work.

If the log house of the bathhouse is built from timber, then installation of the frame will take place quite quickly. This is due to the fact that the surface of the walls is as smooth as possible and will not require much correction of the plane. And the fastening system itself, which is based on hangers with a perforated surface, allows you to set the profile in any position and quickly fix it using self-tapping screws.

Next, we begin installing the siding itself. For work, use a screwdriver, as it will allow you to quickly fasten the material with self-tapping screws. Whatever the design of the bathhouse, the first cladding details will be the guide elements. They are attached to the edges of the bathhouse, and siding is already inserted into them. Each element must have a slight backlash so that it can expand or contract when temperature changes occur. If this is not done, the lining will become deformed and the bathhouse will lose its appearance.

The ends of the cut siding should be processed with a knife or fine sandpaper so that the edges are smooth and fit freely into the grooves of the guides.

Plastic panels

The use of plastic panels makes it possible to carry out cladding work quite cheaply. This is due to the cost of the material itself, which does not need to be painted or carefully processed. A bathhouse made of plastic looks monolithic and has all the qualities of one covered with siding. Log house in front installation work should be treated with bioprotective liquids.

But you will never need paint for such cladding, which is what makes finishing a bathhouse with this material so economical option. Panels, like all previous cladding methods, require a frame. Thin wooden slats are perfect for this. But the log house of the bathhouse should be made only of timber.

This design is often not used, but with a budget approach it is offered to the client.

Modern baths: high-quality finishing from floor to ceiling

A log or timber bathhouse has an attractive façade that does not require additional decorative finishing. But buildings made of slag blocks, bricks and OSB panels require external protection and aesthetic improvement of the facade.

There are a huge number of finishing materials on the construction market, but choose suitable option It’s quite difficult for a novice master. How to cover the outside of a bathhouse to get a functional and attractive building?

The external finishing of the bathhouse is carried out in conjunction with the thermal insulation of the facade. In order to economize usable area buildings, insulating material is recommended to be installed on the outside of the structure. The best option is a ventilated facade, which will provide reliable protection against the penetration of moisture and cold.

The following decorative materials are used for the insulated facade:

• wooden or plastic lining;
• metal and vinyl siding;
• block house;
• panels for imitation timber;
• decorative plaster;
• corrugated sheeting

Traditional material for exterior finishing Baths are made of wood, but metal and plastic are becoming more and more popular. Such materials are characterized by increased strength, wear resistance, durability, inertness to negative factors and aesthetics.

Covering a bathhouse with siding

Siding - decorative panels of a standard size: width - 22 cm, length - 125 cm. The material can be metal or vinyl, has more than 10 colors.

To cover a bathhouse made of timber with siding, you must first install a profile frame or wooden sheathing on self-tapping screws. All installation work can be done independently. The surface of the walls is carefully treated with antiseptic compounds to prevent the formation of mold and harmful microorganisms.

The siding is installed in a horizontal position with a distance of 20 cm from the foundation of the building.

Covering a bathhouse with siding has the following advantages:

• protection of the facade from precipitation;
• resistance to temperature changes and fading;
• inertness to deformation and mechanical damage;
• Fire safety;
• absence of toxic elements;
• good air permeability;
• low level of moisture absorption;
• accessibility of installation.

However, the material has some disadvantages:

• high cost of individual fixing elements of the structure;
• the appearance of deformations and play due to violation of installation technology;
• the need to create a flat surface for fixing the panels.

Bathhouse cladding with imitation timber

Imitation timber is a type of lining that is used for cladding facades. Board dimensions: thickness – 1 cm, width – from 10 to 16 cm.

A distinctive characteristic of the material is the presence of a central groove to relieve stress in the wood, which helps extend the service life of the finish.

Imitation wood is made from various species, but coniferous wood is considered the best.

The main advantages of the finishing material include:

• environmental safety;
• affordable and quick installation;
• resistance to aggressive substances and damage;
• aesthetics;
• variety of standard sizes - width, length and thickness;
• high thermal insulation characteristics;
• long service life.

But even such a practical material is not without significant drawbacks:

• the need for periodic treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants;
• susceptibility to fire and rot;
• the possibility of deformation due to insufficient drying or the use of low-quality raw materials for manufacturing.

The log house of the bathhouse is sheathed horizontally with the tenon facing outwards. This type of fastening is resistant to deformation and moisture penetration. The material is mounted on a flat surface using wooden or metal sheathing. Before painting, the imitation wood is carefully sanded with fine-grain sandpaper.

Covering a bathhouse with a block house

It is a type of imitation wood whose outer side is rounded. The factory technology for drying block house panels provides a standard humidity of 12%.

Advantages of a block house for external cladding:

• environmental friendliness and naturalness;
• attractive appearance;
• affordable price;
• simple and easy installation;
• convenient sizes.

Negative sides similar coating Hardly ever. In some cases, they are associated with a violation of installation technology or low quality wood that was used for its production.

The panels are installed on a pre-prepared wooden frame at a minimum distance from each other of 65 cm. Fixation is carried out from the foundation to the roof using self-tapping screws. The finished coating is sanded and processed protective varnishes or paints.

Finishing the bathhouse with wooden clapboard

The traditional material for exterior finishing is wooden lining. This facade has an aesthetic and modern appearance and fits well with any architectural style.

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse with wooden clapboard has the following advantages:

• environmental safety;
• durability;
• high noise and heat insulation;
• low thermal conductivity;
• accessibility of installation.

Before decorative finishing, the outer walls of the bathhouse are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, which do not contain hazardous components.

The sequence of cladding with wooden lining involves the preliminary preparation of a frame made of thin wooden slats. The lathing is fixed to the bath strictly according to the level to prevent possible deformation of the finishing material. The outer boards are installed first, then the central part is filled.

The lathing is mounted on screws or nails. Additionally, each slatted structure is treated with an antiseptic compound to protect against rotting. The gaps between the slats are filled with wooden inserts or wedges.

Wooden lining strips are mounted on the finished sheathing, with the first part being installed horizontally and strictly level. At the bottom, the lining is fixed with nails or screws, and in the center - with a hidden fastener.

Finally, a properly sheathed bathhouse frame can be treated with varnish or a coloring composition of the desired shade.

Covering the bathhouse with plastic panels

To quickly and cheaply tighten frame bath, you can use decorative plastic panels. The plastic facade has an attractive appearance, and its performance characteristics are not inferior to siding.

Plastic panels have the following advantages:

• low cost;
• wide choice of colors;
• resistance to corrosion and rotting;
• low hygroscopicity;
• no need for additional treatment with antiseptics;
• frost resistance;
• practicality and wear resistance;
• accessible and easy installation;
• simple maintenance.

Despite positive sides, such material is not without its drawbacks:

• low air permeability;
• susceptibility to mechanical damage, deformation and fading;
• high flammability.

Plastic panels are mounted on a pre-installed slatted frame. Before starting work, the surface of the bathhouse is carefully treated with compounds to protect against fire and rotting.

Finishing the bath with warm plaster

An alternative option for finishing the facade of a bathhouse is warm plaster, which is a solution based on cement, expanded clay chips, perlite sand, powdered pumice and granulated foam.

Facade plaster has many advantages:

• high sound and heat insulation characteristics;
• good adhesion to any type of base;
• installation without the use of reinforcing mesh. Exceptions include deformed areas of the façade;
• resistance to rotting, burning, mold formation, infestation by insects and other pests;
• does not require preliminary leveling of the surface.

The disadvantages of the material include the following:

• impressive weight;
• high price;
• limitation on the thickness of the decorative layer - permissible thickness no more than 5 cm;
• the need for finishing primer and painting;
• the need to strengthen the foundation of the building.

The plaster is applied to the cleaned surface manually or by machine. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Decorative design of the pediment

What is the best way to cover the gable of a bathhouse? The answer to this question depends on what material was used to manufacture it and decorate the facade of the building.

• The wooden pediment is sheathed with any material with preliminary waterproofing of the surface.
• Concrete and brick pediments have no restrictions; the only requirement is leveling the surface and installing sheathing under the cladding.

The pediment cladding is made with the following materials:

• professional sheet;
• siding;
• bitumen shingles;
• block house;
• stucco.

The finishing material is attached to the pediment on a prepared surface, on a wooden sheathing or aluminum posts.

To decide what material to cover the facade of a bathhouse with, it is important to take into account not only your financial and technical capabilities, but also design features buildings. At the same time, all the work on installing the cladding can be done independently, the main thing is to follow the basic rules and recommendations.

It’s rare that an owner will refuse to have a bathhouse on a country property. Modern technologies allow the construction of such a traditional structure from very various materials. It can be not only logs and beams, but also blocks and bricks. No matter what the bathhouse is built from, sooner or later the question of exterior and interior decoration arises. With the proper systematic approach, finishing a bathhouse with your own hands can be a completely feasible task.

The appearance of the bathhouse is important on the site

The appearance of the bathhouse is dictated by the style of the surrounding space and the main house. The choice of finishing depends only on the aesthetic preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.

Before examining in detail the options for wall cladding, let us dwell separately on the fact that the finishing of windows, doors, pediments, gutters and plinths are also of great importance for the appearance of the building. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance the combinations of all details according to their aesthetic and practical characteristics.

Traditionally, the bathhouse is built, or, as they say, rolled, from logs. Log house is the most environmentally friendly material. The space between the logs, even at the construction stage, is covered with moss, tow or other insulation. Wooden buildings Allow to sit before proceeding with decorative finishing. Usually it takes a year to a year and a half.

Log sauna

After the log house shrinks, gaps may appear between the logs, especially if materials such as tow or moss are used: it was blown out by the wind, birds pulled it away, etc. Using jute minimizes this problem. But, if cracks do form, they are carefully sealed and sealed. To give a more neat appearance, the logs are sanded. This is a very painstaking and time-consuming process that requires considerable patience and skill.

After sanding, the wooden wall is treated with various compounds against rotting, fungi and insects. If desired, the wood can be given a certain shade by covering it with stain or varnish in a couple of layers after applying the primer.

As for the outer cladding, in the case of a log bathhouse it is worth weighing the pros and cons very carefully. On the one hand, wood also ages over time, cracks and loses its aesthetic properties. The outer cladding will protect it from the effects of external precipitation and hide natural wear and tear from view. On the other hand, this is the most environmentally friendly and breathable material, which means it is necessary to carefully consider the ventilation between the sheathing and the wooden wall to prevent condensation from settling and wood rotting. In any case, having decided to external cladding wooden bath, you should choose the most environmentally friendly materials, such as a block house, imitation logs, wooden lining.

Imitation of timber. Exterior decoration of the bathhouse

Various finishing materials are called imitation timber. You can find this definition in relation to siding made of wood or plastic, repeating the pattern of natural logs, block houses, linings, or as an independent term. Any of the listed materials is subordinated to one common goal: to create the appearance that the structure is made of logs. There are still differences.

Imitation of timber

These are panels made from trees of various species. The material is not subject to deformation, does not fade in the sun, is treated with antiseptics in the factory and is not afraid of moisture. The moisture content of the material is 12%. This is achieved through special chamber drying in production.

Panels made from coniferous and deciduous trees differ in color, smell and other parameters in the same way as solid logs. For example, imitation timber made of spruce, larch or pine of a darker shade. Larch panels are heavier and stronger than others. Made of cedar, have antibacterial properties. Made from pine, contain a large amount of resin and darken over time.

Hardwood panels are usually used for interior decoration due to their cost.

The panels of imitation timber are fastened, starting from the bottom, with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. A vapor barrier membrane and insulation are laid between the wall and the finish. The outside of the imitation timber can be treated with varnish or stain.

This finishing option is ideal for frame structure. Its not the highest cost, combined with high-quality finishing, will give an effect in no way inferior to a bathhouse made from a solid log, but significantly less in price.

Covering the bathhouse with siding on the outside

This type of cladding is one of the most popular today. This is due to the relatively low cost of the material and ease of installation. Siding is made of wood, metal and plastic. Production technologies make it possible to imitate various materials of natural origin and produce panels of various colors. Thanks to this, you can choose a finish for almost any stylistic direction of the main environment, house, or site.

According to manufacturers, the materials used in production do not emit toxic substances, are not susceptible to rotting and molding, and are resistant to sudden changes temperatures and ultraviolet radiation. Please note that all of the above qualities can only apply to certified panels from bona fide manufacturers. Certificates of conformity can always be obtained from sellers.

When choosing siding, you should pay attention to the thickness of the panel. It must be the same for all elements. Most often it is 3mm. Try to buy panels from the same batch so that color differences do not show up during the installation process. If it is not possible to buy the required quantity from one batch, calculate the material so that panels from different batches are located on different facades.

The siding finish includes important feature. The surface of the facade must be perfectly flat.

The siding is secured to the sheathing with stainless steel self-tapping screws. The head of the fastener must be at least 8mm. Installation begins with installing the starting strip and profile. Next we move on to the corners. Install the sheathing from vertically fixed bars or metal slats.

The sheathing pitch is maintained within 30-40 cm. Installation of the panels themselves is not difficult. They are laid one on top of the other, up to the cheek, attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. At the end, the finishing strip is installed. During work, the slats are checked for level every 4-6 rows.

Facade tile finishing

Facade tiles most often imitate a natural stone. There may be two types. The first is metal typesetting elements with special fastenings. It is installed almost the same way as siding. First, the sheathing is installed. The first tile is attached to 4 self-tapping screws. The subsequent ones are only 2 on one side, and with the arc they snap into a special locking groove to the previous one.

The rules for organizing heat and vapor barriers are similar to siding. Installation begins from the bottom corner and regularly checks the vertical and horizontal lines with a plumb line and level. Facade tiles are usually used to finish the basement, but if desired, you can lay out the entire facade. It is a non-flammable material, can withstand precipitation and frost, is resistant to temperature changes and does not lose its aesthetic parameters when exposed to sunlight.

Second type facade tiles attached to cement-sand mortar. This tile is cast from special mixtures. Laying such tiles requires a certain level of skill.

Interior decoration of the bath

The interior space of the bathhouse is divided into two temperature zones. This largely determines the choice of finishing materials. The article describes in detail the finishing process paired section with all the features, so let’s pay attention to other rooms.

In addition to the steam room, the bathhouse is equipped with a dressing room, often combined with a relaxation room, a washing department, and possibly a swimming pool. The choice of finishing materials for the interior of a bathhouse is determined not only by the imagination of the owners. Plays a big role here functional purpose premises.

Interior decoration must be environmentally friendly and hygienic, and not emit any toxic substances. Especially when exposed to heat and moisture. In wet areas, especially on the floor, it is worth considering how slippery the material is when wet. And for finishing the rest room, exclusively aesthetic indicators come to the fore.

Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard

Very often finishing internal space baths are made with wooden clapboards. First, the material is allowed to adapt to the microclimate for 1-2 days. Before proceeding with installation, it is necessary to level the walls, otherwise the material will go in waves. The walls are leveled using lathing in increments of 70 cm.

When choosing forcing, it is important to consider the type of wood from which it is made. Pine is perfect for all rooms except the steam room. It has a nice color and warm air indoors will provoke the release of pleasant pine odors, which also have medicinal properties. There is no need to be afraid of resin release. With proper thermal insulation of the steam room, the temperature in other rooms will not increase so much that the tree “sheds a tear.” For the washing compartment, you can use spruce lining. It is moisture resistant and beautiful in color.

The lining differs not only in the type of wood, but also in the profile.

The soft line is wider than the others and has a narrower comb than the others. Finishing with such lining will look more stylish. Eurolining is considered the most expensive option, but also the most reliable. It does not change its width when it dries out. The humidity of high-quality distillation should be 12%. This should be kept in mind when purchasing.

Bathroom tiling

Except wooden materials tiles can be used in decoration. It is ideal for the washing compartment and the pool, if there is one. Modern manufacturers They offer a huge selection of bath tiles, but we can roughly distinguish two varieties: glazed and unglazed. To decorate a bath, it is better to choose glazed tiles with a rough surface. Firstly, glazed tiles better withstand changes in temperature and humidity. Secondly, the glazed surface protects the tile from the penetration of bacteria into the porous layers of the material.

The rough surface will prevent slipping. In the washing compartment you can also use it for wall cladding.

The shape and size of the tiles are selected to the taste of the owner. The mosaic looks great.

When calculating the required number of tiles, add 5-10%. The tiles are fixed with special glue.

The process of laying tiles is best left to professionals.

Glazed tiles cannot be used as a screen over the stove and heater. Over time, the enamel will not withstand temperatures and will crack.

Photo of the bathhouse finishing