Exterior finishing of the corners of a wooden house. Features of finishing the internal and external corners of the log house

How to finish the corners of the walls so that they turn out smooth, durable and beautiful? Previously, I was often interested in this question, but now, having gained experience, I myself will tell you how corners are finished - external corners inside and outside the building. I am sure that this information will help beginners cope with the task.

Finish options

The difficulty of finishing corners lies not only in the fact that they must be even. The fact is that these sections of the walls are often subject to shock loads, so it is necessary to provide them with sufficient strength.

Currently, there are several ways to solve this problem. The choice of method depends on the type of wall decoration, which can be as follows:

Option 1: plastered or plasterboard walls

If the walls are plastered or covered with plasterboard, then special plaster corners are usually used to finish the corners. They come in two types:

• Aluminum perforated. Used for finishing flat areas;

• Arched. Made of plastic. Their main feature is their increased flexibility, which allows them to be used for finishing curved surfaces;

The corners are glued with plaster or putty at the stage of rough finishing of the walls. During their installation, be sure to use a level. This allows you to install them strictly vertically or horizontally.

It must be said that this solution is used both for internal walls and facades. But, most importantly, this finishing of the outer corners of the house allows not only to level them, but also to protect them from mechanical damage.

Price:

Please note that all prices are current as of Spring 2017.

Option 2: finished with PVC clapboard

Recently, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) lining, which is simply called plastic panels, has become very popular. Most often this material is used in the following rooms:

• Bathrooms;
• Kitchens;
• Hallways.

If the walls are finished with plastic, the corners can be decorated in the following ways:

• Using profiles. This is the simplest method, the essence of which is to use corner profiles. They are installed on the lathing using a level, just like plaster corners.

As a rule, profiles are fixed to the sheathing using a stapler. Then the panels are simply inserted into special grooves;

• By bending the panels. To bend plastic panel with your own hands, you need to cut its inner side along the fold line. It is even advisable to cut a thin strip, as shown in the photo diagram above.

Before bending, it is advisable to heat the front side, for example, using a hairdryer.

Price. The price of guides for PVC panels starts from 25-30 rubles per 3 m (standard length).

Option 3: finished with wooden paneling

Not so long ago, when finishing walls with clapboards, the boards for corner joints were cut and adjusted. At the same time, the remaining cracks were filled with putty. Nowadays, you can purchase a special wooden corner to decorate corners.

You can secure it to the lining using window nails. The only thing is that it is advisable to bite off the nail heads so that they are invisible.

It must be said that in this way you can finish not only external, but also internal corner joints.

Price. Price wooden corners on average is about 50 rubles per linear meter.

Option 4: facade finished with siding

Many beginners are interested in how to decorate the corners of the house on the facade? As I said above, perforated plaster corners can be used for wet facades.

If the facade is sheathed with siding or other facade panels, you should use special additional elements, which are usually sold complete with panels.

Such corners perform several functions at once:

• Provide fixation of panels;
• Design the joint of the panels;
• Protect the ends of the panels from mechanical loads;
• Serve as guides for siding.

In fact, installing siding corners is similar to installing guides for PVC lining. They are also mounted on the sheathing, but not with a stapler, but with self-tapping screws. In this case, a level must be used.

Option 5: wooden walls

At first glance, there is no need to decorate the corners of a wooden house from the outside, since they themselves look quite attractive and are quite durable. However, not everyone knows that the ends of lumber are the areas that are least resistant to moisture and rot.

To protect them, special sealants and impregnations are used for the corners of a wooden house.

Price. Below are the most popular formulations and their costs:

You can use compounds for the ends of lumber not only outside, but also inside a wooden house.

Option 6: wallpapered or finished with liquid materials

Above, I have already talked about the rough method of finishing plastered walls. Finally, let’s look at how the decorative finishing of such walls is done.

So, there are two most common ways to solve this problem:

• Decorative overlays. Finishing external corners in the apartment involves the installation of PVC or polyurethane corners.

These products can be made to look like wood or even look like an expensive baguette. The latter are usually made of polyurethane. They look rich and are used in classic interiors;

• Decorative stone. In this case, the corners are covered with decorative stone, which can be made of plaster, cement or even natural stone.

It must be said that this method can be used not only for interior walls, but also for the facade.

The instructions for installing decorative corners require removing the finishing coating in the area where they adjoin the wall. This is especially true for heavy polyurethane linings.

Price. Below is the cost of some materials for decorating corners:

Conclusion

Now you know what methods and materials are used to decorate the corners of a house outside and inside. Additionally, watch the video in this article. If you have any questions on this topic, you can contact me in the comments.

Some Construction Materials, from which walls are erected, immediately imply the need for exterior decoration of the house: the resulting picture is very unsightly. Others may lose their appeal over time. And the third case is extensive crack formation, which is “treated”, but the results remain visible. In all these cases, the question arises: “How to sheathe the outside of the house.” Moreover, most often it is necessary to “sheath” it - without using mortar or other similar means that require a lot of money and time. I want to do everything quickly and, very preferably, inexpensively, and, if possible, with my own hands. Oddly enough, there is a choice of materials and technologies, and a considerable one.

Basic Rules

When selecting materials for cladding a house from the street, be sure to remember that in order to maintain normal humidity in the rooms, the vapor permeability of the materials must decrease from inside the room to the outside. That is, the exterior finishing should conduct steam better than the wall material. Then high humidity, which is typical for our homes, will be discharged through the walls naturally (explanations in the photo).

If this principle is violated, moisture will accumulate at the interface of materials with different vapor permeability. It condenses, creating conditions for rotting and the development of fungi and mold. IN winter time freezes, destroying the wall material and/or finishing. Sooner or later such a system will have to be dismantled and rebuilt.

The trouble is that only wood meets this requirement. Most other materials for exterior decoration of a house have low vapor permeability. The problem is solved in two ways:

Today the second option is becoming increasingly popular. Very effective thermal insulation materials, allowing you to significantly reduce heating costs. But they have very low vapor permeability (expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam). When using them, only the second humidity control scheme is possible. When choosing what to cover your house with, consider these points.

Wood paneling

Wood has been used in construction and decoration for centuries, and it seems that it will be relevant for a long time. All thanks to its excellent appearance and ability to regulate indoor humidity. This is perhaps the only material that will remove excess moisture without problems, regardless of what material the walls are made of.

Wooden cladding can have a completely non-standard appearance: different colors and sizes, different directions. It's simple, but the effect is amazing

The most popular materials for wall cladding are block house and imitation timber. There is also lining for exterior finishing - it is thicker than what is intended for it, but otherwise it is no different.

The block house imitates the surface of a rounded log - the front part has a rounded shape. Imitation timber is very similar to planed timber. Both types of cladding are attached to the sheathing, then sanded and coated with protective impregnations, and optionally varnished or painted.

What does lumber look like? external cladding Houses

If you can’t decide how to cover the outside of a foam block house, consider the option wood cladding. In this case, lathing (metal or wood) is nailed to the walls. If necessary, insulation is placed between the slats - basalt wool(foam or polystyrene foam cannot be used) and then the wood sheathing is nailed on.

This building is sheathed with imitation timber. Under the skin there can be brick, log frame, frame or any of the building blocks

If you need the most cheap option, for most regions of Russia this is an ordinary planed board. Its thickness is from 40 mm, it is stuffed in the same way as a lining or block house onto the sheathing, the lower end of the upper board extends 10-20 mm onto the one located underneath it. It turns out the principle of the cone. So you can veneer it cheaply country house or even residential. With proper processing, such cladding has a very good appearance.

How to cheaply cover the outside of a house? For middle zone Russia - wooden planed board

The disadvantages of such finishing are the same as with any wood: it can be damaged by pests, rot, without proper care it quickly loses its decorative effect, becomes dark and ugly. If you want to cover your house and not think about it for years, this is not your choice. Behind wood paneling maintenance is required, and, most often, annually.

Siding

In some regions, planks and other lumber are not the most affordable materials. In this case, it’s cheaper. This is the option when, having completed the finishing once, you can forget about it for a long time.

If you are thinking about how to decorate the outside of a timber house, perhaps your option is siding

Since the sheathing is nailed onto the sheathing, the façade is ventilated. If you need to inexpensively decorate wooden walls (from timber, logs, panels), siding is one of the options. It can also be used for buildings made of any other material: foam block, aerated concrete, slag-filled concrete, etc. This cladding is universal.

Vinyl

Siding is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is therefore also called vinyl. It consists of strips of material 205 and 255 mm wide, 1.1 mm and 1.2 mm thick. The longitudinal edges have a lock on one side and perforation for fasteners on the other (self-tapping screws are more often used).

The siding is also attached to the sheathing. It is recommended to use a special metal one, but impregnated ones are quite suitable. wooden blocks. Only standard starting and side stripes will be needed. The only caveat: the screws need to be “undertightened” a little, leaving some play in order to compensate for temperature changes in the materials. With this installation, the siding will not crack due to stress.

The advantages of this material for external cladding at home: low prices, easy installation.

The disadvantage of vinyl siding: it quickly fades in the sun, so it is advisable to use dim colors. Has quite a wide temperature regime operation: from +50°C to -35°C, but even in slight frosts it becomes brittle and easily damaged.

One more point: houses covered with siding and having a broken configuration look good. If the building is rectangular, without architectural frills, it does not have the most attractive appearance (as evidenced by the photo below).

If the building is simply long, without reliefs or protrusions, covering the walls with sading will not embellish it very much

Metal

Metal siding consists of strips of thin aluminum or galvanized steel, onto which a protective and decorative coating is applied. It has the same fastening system as vinyl.

House cladding metal siding simple: you can do it yourself even without much construction experience

The coating can be made of polymers. It is distinguished by its reliability, resistance to burnout and other climatic factors. Its disadvantage is the limited choice of colors. The second coating option is powder coating. The color range is much wider, the paint lasts for years without signs of peeling.

If you are looking for something to clad the outside of your home for a durable and vibrant finish, one of the metal siding options may be right for you. It can be bent, it is very difficult to break, installation is not very difficult: you need good metal scissors, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver or a screwdriver. All installation features are the same as for vinyl, with the only difference being that metal can be installed at sub-zero temperatures.

It is not easy to harmoniously decorate a building covered with metal siding

From the point of view of durability, this is a good option, but from the point of view of aesthetics, it is difficult to work with: it looks too “manufactured”. The building no longer resembles a residential building, but rather a warehouse or some kind of workshop.

Tsokolny

This is one of the varieties of vinyl siding, but it has a completely different configuration, appearance and greater panel thickness. It was developed specifically for decorating and protecting the plinths of buildings, but I liked it so much that it began to be used for cladding facades. Exterior design- under brickwork of different types and colors, with or without drawings, wild stone. Sometimes the imitation is so successful that you understand that what is in front of you is not brick cladding, and vinyl, you can only touch the wall.

It is mounted, like other types, on the sheathing, there are perforations and locks. The difference is that the basement siding panel does not look like a long rectangle, but a certain section of the wall with curly edges. These curly edges are used to join. Accordingly, the sheathing must be adjusted to the size of the fragment. When installing, first the edge of the panel is inserted into the already installed lock, a match is achieved, and then secured. The main thing is that during installation, do not overtighten the screws, leaving the siding room to move with temperature changes.

The sheathing can be made of treated wooden blocks (with protective impregnation) or from plasterboard profiles (galvanized). How to install basement siding on a basement, watch the video. It is mounted on the wall in the same way. The difference is in area.

Fiber cement boards and siding

Relatively recently, a new cladding appeared on our market: fiber cement boards and siding made of the same material. They consist of wood fiber, quartz, mica, cement, and may contain chlorine and asbestos (some materials used only for exterior decoration). This mixture is formed into sheets, then dehydrated in several stages, and fired using some technologies. Then a protective and decorative coating is applied to the surface:

The coating can be smooth - glossy or matte, or can imitate brickwork, wood and other finishing materials. Installed on guides mounting strips, attached to the wall with clamps. This material may suit you if you don’t know what to cover frame house outside: it creates a continuous surface, the panel joints are sealed and precipitation will not get inside.

This house is also lined with fiber cement slabs

Watch the video to see how to attach fiber cement boards.

Fiber cement siding is produced using the same technology, only it is molded into long strips. They are basically standard: 3600*190*12 mm. This material is cut with a jigsaw, installed on a wooden sheathing with an overlap (like a cone) and nailed to it or screwed with self-tapping screws.

Thermal panels

Thermal panels are a material that performs two functions at once - cladding and external insulation of houses. A layer of thermal insulation is applied to the thermal insulation layer at the factory. decorative covering. It looks like marble or a natural stone, does not burn, has low performance by water absorption.

Do this finishing material based on foam plastic, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. Depending on the type of insulation, the installation method is selected: polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are glued to the appropriate composition. The joints are closed with a special aluminum strip or rubbed with paste.

Based on mineral wool, they are mounted only on a special system of profiles; the joints are also sealed.

A very attractive idea is to immediately insulate the house and cladding it. Excellent appearance, and the characteristics of this cladding are impressive. It’s just a pity that there is little operating experience and no reviews yet: it appeared only recently.

There are also clinker thermal panels. Clinker tiles are glued to the insulation. The material is not cheap, but the characteristics are impressive, as is the variety of finishes.

Another option for thermal panels is with clinker tiles

The choice of materials that can be used to cover a house at any time - winter or summer - is considerable. Eat expensive options, there are cheaper ones. In any case, in addition to cost, be sure to consider vapor permeability. Then you won’t have to deal with mold and dampness.

Recently construction wooden houses experiencing its rebirth. Many owners prefer to build houses made of natural wood on their plots.
Upon completion of construction, the homeowner is faced with a reasonable question: how to decorate the outside wooden house?
It is worth noting that if it is an old wooden house, this question costs much more. We understand the desire of people to decorate the outside of their home and protect wooden structures from adverse weather conditions.

It must be said that in an effort to protect their home, many owners do it incorrectly, which not only does not bring the desired result, but, on the contrary, causes damage to the entire structure.
Today we will look at several options for exterior decoration.
Modern decoration of a country house outside involves a lot in various ways, but we will only consider two:

• Brick finishing
• Siding finishing

These two methods were not chosen by chance, as they are the most common at present. It should be noted that many experts also generally recommend these methods.
Let's look at the options using an example wooden log house from chopped, non-rounded logs.

Chopped logs - all the benefits

The material itself is wonderful. A chopped log is good because the sapwood is preserved on it.

Our reference is sapwood: the top layer of wood, which contains a large percentage of resin. The presence of this component prevents rotting and is an excellent protection against moisture.

Unlike chopped logs, this layer is absent on a rounded log. Of course, assembly is easier and more convenient, and the appearance is much more presentable.
But if you plan to decorate the outside of a wooden house with another material, using chopped logs is preferable. But we got off topic, let's continue.

Exterior brick finish

External brickwork is usually done using a vapor barrier layer. In particular, glassine is very often used.

Our reference is glassine: durable cardboard impregnated with bitumen. IN modern construction replaced only roofing felts and roofing felts.

It should be noted that this method is not invented by the owners themselves, but is suggested by some experts.

The main mistake is vapor barrier

The principle is clear; the use of a vapor barrier, including glassine, will provide additional protection wooden structure from exposure to external moisture and condensation. Thus, it is planned to preserve the tree for as long as possible and it is assumed that living in such a house will be more comfortable and enjoyable.
This is a deep misconception.
We want to warn you against this type of finishing. No, you can use brick, but using a vapor barrier between brick and wooden wall is fraught with serious consequences.

Moisture – from the side where you didn’t expect it

Here's the thing:

• The biggest mistake is that many people think that a wooden house gets wet from the outside. Of course, if it rains slantingly, the walls may get wet for a while, but they will dry quickly.
• If the roof of your house is constructed correctly, the walls are not afraid of rain.
• In fact, a wooden house is saturated with moisture from the inside. This mainly happens during the cold season.
• The weather outside is frosty, dry; as a rule, in frosty weather the moisture content does not exceed 2 milligrams per 1 m3 of air.
• At this very time, inside the house, this figure is 22 - 26 milligrams per 1 m3. At the same time, air humidity is 40 – 50%.

Brick + vapor barrier – an insurmountable barrier

But we know that we have brickwork outside, with a vapor barrier installed between it and the wooden wall. A vapor barrier is precisely designed to prevent moisture from passing through.
As a result, all the moisture remains in the walls, and the lack of air access through the vapor barrier favors the emergence of areas of wood rotting. It is necessary to add here a cold brick wall on which condensation will begin to form.

Brick - imaginary advantages

As a result: such protection not only does not contribute to its intended purpose, but, on the contrary, aggravates the situation and serves as a direct source of rotting and destruction of wooden structures. It is important to note that brick itself is not so dangerous for a wooden house.
The brick structure is vapor permeable. But in the case of using vapor barrier, it becomes an explosive mixture that contributes to destruction wooden structure.
Why do many people want to cover a wooden house with brick? In addition to aesthetics, there is another incentive here: fire safety.
Of course, the desire to protect your home from fire is commendable, but it is worth noting that mostly fires in wooden buildings occur not due to the fault of the outside, but precisely from the inside. This includes incorrectly laid wiring, an incorrect heating system, and sometimes simply careless handling of fire.
In any case, the risk of rotting is much higher than the risk of fire.

Saidin - beautiful and comfortable

It's time to consider the option. Exterior finishing of a wooden house with siding is preferable to brick.
So:

• Siding is relatively cheap, easy to install, process and easy to maintain.
• By decorating your home with this material, you will end up with a modern appearance, even if your home is decades old.
• As far as aesthetics go, it's pretty good.
• Available for sale big choice various colors, shapes and shades. By combining them, you can give your home a truly unique, memorable look.

The main advantage is that it is harmless to a wooden house.

We said this about the appearance.
And the most important advantage of siding is that it will not cause any harm to the wooden structure at all. Of course, if the siding is simply installed, outside, without vapor barriers and insulation.
So:

• This coating will protect the outside walls from adverse weather conditions, such as slanting rain.
• In addition, the wooden walls will be protected from direct exposure to ultraviolet sunlight.
• It is clear that by installing siding on the wall of a wooden house, you will thereby create a certain air gap.
• The air will circulate there all the time, the siding joints are not airtight, due to this, in the hot season, the walls of the house will heat up less, which will lead to the formation of a pleasant microclimate indoors even in the hottest weather.
• Air circulation will also help remove excess moisture from the room and walls of the house.

Insulation is another imaginary advantage

It is necessary to say a few words about insulation. Many people are interested in the question: is it worth using insulation when finishing the exterior of a wooden house?
I would like to say the following: we would not recommend using insulation for the exterior of a wooden house and here’s why.
As a rule, houses made of chopped logs themselves are quite warm. In addition, they have little or the average size.
The existing heating systems are quite sufficient for heating. Huge log houses are rare.
From a purely economic point of view, the effect of insulating a house made of chopped logs is not entirely justified. Most likely, all costs will pay off within decades.

Ecological imbalance

Sometimes they try to insulate such houses using mineral wool. There are many names, as well as manufacturers, but mineral wool is mineral wool.
So:

• Mineral wool releases phenols during operation.
• At the end of this process, it begins to disintegrate into microparticles.
• The particles are so small that they can penetrate into the wooden structure through various micro-holes.
• At the same time, there will also be a presence around the living space a large number of these particles.
• Inhaling these particles is, to put it mildly, not entirely beneficial. Thus, all thoughts about using environmentally friendly wooden housing are nullified.

Insulation of a wooden house - the method of laying logs is important

Wooden exterior finishing of buildings involves finishing works in certain places of the building. Let's talk about this.
It happens that houses made of logs are not stacked in a “blow” or “in a cup”, but in a “lapa”.

Our reference is a house folded “in a log”: with this method, the logs are connected in such a way that the ends of the log extend about 500 mm beyond the boundaries of the connection point or the corner of the building. In this case, the dimensions of the room are reduced by the size taken outside the corners.

This method is visible in the figure; you have probably encountered it more than once or seen it in films.

This method, in a cloud or in a “cup,” is considered the most sustainable, but at the same time not the most economical in terms of wood use.

Nowadays, savings require that many prefer the method of stacking logs in a “paw”.

Our certificate - a house folded “in a paw”: what distinguishes it first of all is this method the fact that the logs do not stick out in the corners of the house. In other words, the entire log is used.
With this method, the wood savings are significant. The “paw” connection is performed in a simple and complex way.
The simple method uses plug-in tenons in the connection. At in a complicated way the spikes are made on the log itself.
Such work can be done by a very competent specialist.

The figure shows this method. You can check it out.

But what does this have to do with the method of laying logs and the question: how to decorate the outside of a wooden house?

Boards as insulation - a lesson from our ancestors

Take your time, the connection here is very direct. We mentioned the finishing of a wooden house done in certain places of the building. Have you probably come across log houses whose corners on the outside are finished in the manner shown in the figure below?

Do you see how the corners of this house are finished? They are made in the form of a carved pillar harmoniously integrated into the entire design. Do you think this is just for beauty, or rather, just for beauty?
But look at the house in the next photo.

The shutters are carved, the craftsmen wanted to decorate the building, but they did not touch the corners. It seemed like it would have been possible to build improvised posts there, but no, they didn’t do that.
The thing is that this house is folded “into a cup”, and the previous one “into a paw”. As in the example of the house in the next picture.

The house “in paw” and “column” is present, although not as carved. Of course, the craftsmen wanted to cover up a not entirely beautiful connection with this type of finishing, but not everyone knows that it’s not just that. This finishing element directly affects the thermal insulation of the house.
The fact is that a corner folded “into a paw” will freeze much more strongly than a corner folded “in a cup.” It will be useful for our readers to know that the thermal conductivity of wood along and across the fibers differs significantly from each other.
The difference in thermal conductivity is almost 6 times. In other words, heat is lost six times less across the fibers than along it.

Therefore, the masters of the past acted very wisely. They simply nailed a fairly thick board onto the end of the log.
Since the board has fibers in this case were located transversely, thermal insulation of the end of the log was ensured. Of course, the board also served as an element to hide the unpresentable appearance of the “claw” seam, and the carving on the board only added to the sophistication.
This move made it possible to significantly save on wood and at the same time solve issues of thermal insulation and design.

We adopt experience - do it in a new way

If your house is built this way and you're going to put siding on it, putting boards on the corners isn't exactly the right solution. Firstly, it will not be in harmony with overall design
, and secondly, installing siding on the corners will not be very convenient.
Our instructions in this case are as follows: use modern insulating materials at the corners. There is no need to insulate entire walls, there is no need for this and it is just an extra expense.
Insulate with your own hands only the joints at the corners. Next, the insulation will be covered with siding and everything will fall into place.

We considered two main options. We did not analyze the installation process itself, but tried to look deeper, to consider, so to speak, issues of expediency and practicality.

The only thing better than a tree is a tree At the end I would like to say one more thing. If your house is made of high-quality material, do not rush to work on top of it.
different finishes Everything is of course at your discretion, but the prose of life is such that they decorate the outside of houses made of logs mainly in cases where they want to hide bad material
walls
Even new wooden houses are sometimes sold with siding or other material on the outside. Let us repeat, in most cases, this is the seller’s desire to hide the true condition of the walls.

If your house is made of good wood, cover it with any antiseptic, protective coating. Wood is a material for all times and the latest surge in its popularity is further proof of this.

First things first Our resource has a lot of descriptions, videos and photos various types
finishing. With us you can learn in sufficient detail about how and with what to decorate your house or apartment, as well as understand many construction subtleties and choose the method that is most suitable for you.

Good luck!

Covering residential buildings with siding, as an option for finishing and insulating external walls, is very popular today. This is facilitated by the beautiful appearance of the panels, the range of which has recently expanded significantly. And the quite affordable price of the material also played a role. It is not surprising that many owners of capital and country houses

The video in this article on the topic: “We cover a house with siding step by step” will good help for those who want to cladding a house with their own hands.

Cladding of log walls

The texture of log walls is beautiful in itself, if, of course, calibrated material was used for construction. In this case, it is unlikely that it would occur to anyone to sheathe them.

But there are situations when the house is old and its facade requires updating. When in construction, in order to save money, uncalibrated logs are used, the appearance of the walls leaves much to be desired and requires finishing. One way or another, they also have to be sheathed.

• But the fact is that the casing log house siding, namely, has some difficulties. Their reason is the protruding corners of the log house, which cannot simply be taken and cut at 90 degrees, because each log is an element of the supporting structure.

• The siding of a log house must be done in such a way as to keep the corners intact. Therefore, the indentation of the decorative surface from the base wall should correspond to the size of the protruding elements of the log house. The example above shows that they are all located clearly vertically.
• But this does not always happen - often the ends of the logs have different lengths. In this case, they can be filed, and this must be done so that they form an even line. Due to the protruding corners, the sheathing will recede significantly from the walls, and its plane will have to be leveled by placing thick bars.
• Direct hangers onto which the frame elements will be attached will help ensure such an indentation. If the corner projections turn out to be too long, and it is not possible to file them down, you will have to sheathe them in the same way as if it were a wall projection forming an internal corner.

• To equip it, you can use either a metal profile or timber - it’s your choice. But if you consider that wooden walls The timber can also be fastened with nails; this option is the easiest to use. This is exactly what our instructions will consider. Moreover, let’s say the cladding country house siding, does not involve extra costs.

Even taking into account that to cover a log house you will have to take not 30*30 mm, but 50*50 mm timber, a metal profile will cost almost twice as much. The thicker the bars, the more rigid the frame will be.

It is necessary to increase the cross-section of the timber for the sheathing due to the large indentation, because it cannot be mounted directly to the wall.

Installation of sheathing

Apart from some distinctive nuances that were mentioned in the previous chapter, the procedure for covering a house with siding remains the same - regardless of what material the walls are built from. First, of course, preparation and marking.

So:

• Most often sheathed an old house, therefore, preparing the walls includes dismantling all overhead elements that will interfere with work. First of all, these are drainpipes, window and door frames, drains, and lighting fixtures.

• Then, the walls are cleaned of dirt and mold, and must be treated with biocidal impregnation. Next, markings are made for the frame. First, along the line of the base it beats horizontal line, along which it will be mounted metal corner. It will serve as the basis for installing the bottom beam, which will support the racks and insulation (see).
• In the photo above, where a country house is covered with siding, the frame structure is clearly visible: two horizontal belts, along the lower and upper perimeter, and vertical racks. Additional belts are installed in window and corner areas. This arrangement of frame elements is used for horizontal cladding.
• As for the pitch of the sheathing. If the walls are insulated, say, with mineral wool 60 cm wide, then the distance between the racks should be 1 cm less - 59 cm. This is done so that the insulation fits into the sheathing cell as tightly as possible, and without a gap.

• If the surface of the insulation is flush with the top edge of the bars, then it is impossible to install the cladding on the same sheathing. There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between them, otherwise, in internal space condensation will accumulate on the casing. That is why the frame cladding system is called.
• To ensure a gap, you will have to install a counter-lattice made of 20*50 mm slats. The picture above shows that the slats are mounted directly along the beam of the first frame. This is normal for lining, but this will not work for siding.
• Since the minimum width slab insulation 50 cm, and the pitch of the frame elements under the siding should be no more than 40 cm, then the pitch of the first and second sheathings does not coincide. Therefore, the rail will have to be installed in the direction transverse to the beam.
• You just need to remember that ultimately it should be perpendicular to the siding panels. But first, a windproof membrane is mounted on top of the insulation - the counter-lattice will securely fix it.

• Sheathing country house siding, if it does not need to be insulated, can be done a little differently: the walls are first sheathed with plywood or OSB boards. This method has its advantages.

Firstly, plywood has thermal insulation properties, and secondly, it will become an excellent protection for the facade from the wind. The last and most important thing is that the surface of the walls becomes perfectly flat, and siding can be mounted directly to them, without lathing.

Brick house cladding

Finishing capital house, begins, as a rule, with the arrangement of a blind area along its perimeter. If you first line the walls, then it will be almost impossible to make the blind area correctly later.

Yes, and when installing the sheathing, certain difficulties arise. The presence of a blind area allows you to mount the guide profile directly to its surface.

• Covering a brick house with siding is carried out sequentially: first the base, then the walls and gables (see), then the window and door slopes, and finally, the roof overhangs. Ground part The foundation is practically not sheathed with horizontal siding, at least if the base is sunken or protruding.

• This is why it exists - its dimensions are on average 690*1150 mm. They are adapted to standard height plinth, and are very convenient for independent work. In addition, the front finish of such panels is stylized as stone or brickwork, which looks most harmonious on the foundation of the building.
• Such cladding of the base emphasizes the solidity of the building and visualizes its geometric shapes. By the way, you can cover the entire facade with basement siding, or you can beautifully combine two or even three types of materials. Such combinations look especially good on houses with complex configuration bad material

As for the sheathing for rectangular panels: its design is somewhat different from the frame for long siding. You will learn about this in the next part of our article.

Nuances of arranging subsystems for cladding

Considering that the foundation walls are in direct contact with the ground, surface water and snow, then making a wooden frame under the cladding is, to say the least, stupid. No impregnation guarantees him long term operation.

• To avoid having to dismantle the sheathing in a few years to replace rotten beams, at least in the basement part of the sheathing, it is better to install profile sheathing. If you still use timber, then it is better to do it according to the scheme that you see below.

• Vertical belts are mounted on the foundation wall, in increments of 50 cm, along which cladding is made with cement-bonded particle boards 14-16 mm thick. You will get a flat and strong base on which you can hang the panels. The DSP will protect the sheathing from direct contact with precipitation, serve as a heat-insulating layer and wind protection for the foundation.
• If you want to additionally insulate the base, you need to take the timber, as is the case with log walls, with a cross section of 50*50 mm, and the insulation is no thicker than 30 mm. Then, due to the difference in thickness, you will get the required ventilation gap of 2 cm. If you don’t plan to put insulation in the sheathing, you can take smaller bars - 30*30 cm. Even a 20*40 mm batten will do.

• Using the same principle, you can cover the entire facade. In any case, for those whose houses are in the southern climatic zones, and do not need multi-layer insulation, this is ideal convenient option. But often the walls of a house, and especially the basement, most often have to be insulated, and sometimes even in two layers.
• In this case, there will be not two, but three sheathings. That is, each layer of insulation has its own frame, and the last one is a counter-lattice for hanging panels. With this insulation scheme, the consumption of material for installing the subsystem increases. In order to save money, the internal lathing is made from bars, and the external lathing is made from a profile.

• Here everyone decides for themselves, based on their budget. The options for arranging frames that were mentioned here relate to ventilated facade systems, and are relevant not only for siding, but also for all materials mounted on the frame. The designs differ only in the pitch size of the sheathing, and the presence or absence of transverse belts.
• For long panels, frame elements are mounted in one direction, perpendicular to the cladding. But the basement siding needs to be fastened around the entire perimeter. The sheathing under it is arranged in two directions, and its pitch must correspond to the size of the module.

• So, if you decide to combine two types of panels in the finishing, as shown in the picture above, then the sheathing for them should be made in two versions. We will not talk about the technology of hanging panels now.

For each type of siding, depending on the version and the material from which it is made, there are its own technological nuances regarding cutting and installation.

You can easily find information on each of them on our website. The main thing is to install the subsystem correctly, and then there will definitely not be any difficulties with installing the panels.