Installing a window in a log house: technology for doing it yourself, plus a photo report on the work done. Correct installation of windows in a house made of timber House made of timber how to make windows

First, we insulate the lower part and install the window sill, then we insulate the remaining perimeter and install the sides. We close the casing by installing a topper.

We coat the locks with wood sealant. No self-tapping screws!

At the final stage, we stuff the protruding jute into the seams. We also tightly plug the space above the top with it.

Let's check the geometry again. Profit!

The result of the work.

Installation video - very detailed

In the video, the house is not entirely made of timber. It is a fire monitor, but also with smooth walls. All stages of casing installation were well filmed. A bonus is the visual installation of plastic windows and doors.

Video timing:

• marking openings in the wall 0:20 - 1:07
• sawing 1:10 – 2:20
• marking the tenon at the end of the opening - 3:30 - 4:05
• sawing out a tenon - 4:10 - 6:11
• impregnation of the opening with an antiseptic - 6:13 - 6:55
• impregnation of the casing with an antiseptic - 6:56 - 7:06
• installation of casing with insulation of the opening with jute - from 7:08
• how the last part of the casing is mounted - the top - 7:54 - 8:05 and 8:20 - 8:30
• installation of doors and windows - from 8:35
• caulking seams with jute - from 11:06

Installation of T-casing in a timber house

The technology differs only in that a groove is selected at the end of the openings. And the spike is formed on the side of the casing adjacent to the wall.

It’s not difficult to make a groove in a beam or, simply put, a groove. In the drawing I showed the top view of the groove. After marking, you make two vertical cuts, then two more 45-degree cuts. Remove the cut triangles and clean the middle with the tip of the chain. Or a chisel if you are not confident in your abilities.

How and how to cut a groove in a beam - top view of the opening.

To make straight cuts with a chain saw you need experience, a good eye and strong hands. You can also cut the groove with a hand-held circular saw, and where it won’t reach, finish it with a chisel.

Both types of pigtails are equally reliable. P-casing is a classic, time-tested option. T-casing appeared relatively recently; it is used for installation in houses with grooves cut during the construction of walls.

Advice: The cost of installing a frame for 1 opening in a log house from different companies is now in the range of 3,500 - 5,000 rubles. At the same time, you can order the production of casing without a proprietary installation.

Thus, you will receive ready-made casing profiles of the shape and size you need. To leisurely install them in your free time, saving tens of thousands of rubles.

An additional bonus when ordering a ready-made joint is the choice of options, the independent implementation of which is very expensive. For example, you can order casing to widen the openings into the house - this visually enlarges the openings and provides more light. Or order a clean window sill.

How to connect the parts of a pigtail - lock options

The locks connecting the parts of the casing vary in complexity of execution. The correct lock prevents the parts of the box from moving relative to each other. Both during the installation of a window or door, and during the period of shrinkage of the house. It also prevents connections from blowing out.

Options:

• quarter connection. The simplest to implement, often used for self-installation. Requires additional fixation with corners.
• quarter joint with reverse corners. A more rigid option also requires additional fixation. Blown through
• dovetail or box tenon connection
• designer locks from companies that manufacture and install casing.

A quarter is the simplest and most unreliable lock.

On the left is a box plier, on the right is a casing with a designer lock.

The upper and lower locks in the casing are usually different in shape.



Factory cut top lock.

How to calculate the size of openings if there are window/door sizes

Let's take as an example a 1.4 by 1.2 meter window in a house made of 150x150 profiled timber. We will calculate the width and height of the opening for a P-casing with a thickness of 90 mm. The wooden window sill is the lower part of the frame.

Calculation using the example of a window 1400 x 1200 mm.

Initial data:

• window width 1400 mm, window height 1200 mm
• thickness of side panels - 90 mm, top and window sill - 60 mm
• depth of the selected quarter for the frame - 25 mm
• drank above the tip - 70 mm

Formula:

Opening width = window width + two casing thicknesses - two quarter depths + 5 mm for the gap between the casing and the wall on each side and 10 mm for the gap between the casing and the frame, also on each side.

1400+90+90+30–50 = 1560 mm

The height of the opening = the height of the window + the thickness of the window sill + the thickness of the top + 25 mm for gaps - two quarter depths + the gap above the top.

1200+90+90+25–40+70 = 1435 mm

The principle, I think, is clear. If anything, ask in the comments.

Conclusions on self-installation

1. Many people install the casing with their own hands. So you can too.
2. Always keep in mind that you need warm openings. The window frame is not an end in itself, but an intermediate stage when installing windows and doors in a wooden house.
3. Remember that a house built from timber with natural moisture shrinks by 10-15 cm per year. Leave enough free space above the top.
4. The lifespan of the windows and doors of your home depends on the quality of the frame.
5. If possible, avoid rough casing in the embedded block.

FAQ

• When to install the casing, do you have to wait for the house to shrink?

You can close the warm perimeter, that is, install windows and doors in the casing, immediately after building the walls and roof of the timber house. Casing blocks do not interfere with shrinkage and will keep your frames safe.

• Is it possible to install plastic windows without casing?

In a frame or stone house you can. In a log house - you can’t.

• Glued or solid wood - which is better?

Nowadays, most companies work with laminated wood (those who offer finishing casing). Because the solid pine and fir trees on the market are of low quality. Or at an inappropriate price.

• Is a window frame needed in timber houses built 5-10 years ago?

Needed. Wood is a natural material. Its humidity depends on weather conditions. And the timber in the walls will still “play”.

• In a timber house we want to install a casing in the embedded timber. It's much cheaper and faster. Why is that bad?

It's not bad. But this may be more expensive than proper casing. The rough frame will require finishing - installation and adjustment of accessories. Check its quality too

• If you missed any points about the frame of the log house, ask in the comments.

Ask a casing question to an expert!

Measurers and managers of Shuvoe.ru LLC, the oldest casing production and installation company in the Moscow region, answer your questions. Since 1995, Shuvoe.ru has been professionally glazing wooden houses.

Installing windows in a new log house has its own specifics. In order for the work to be of the highest quality, it is important to choose the right material, as well as the timing of window installation. If everything is done correctly, the windows will serve you for many years, and the house will always be light and cozy.

Peculiarities

The main nuance of working with a wooden base is that this material is capable of changing its geometry and dimensions over time. Many are confident that if the frames are installed after shrinkage, deformation will not occur. However, walls made of timber can still “sag” slightly. This property is not so clearly manifested in structures made of laminated veneer lumber, which is why this material is becoming more and more popular. However, even if the drawdown is only a couple of millimeters per year, there is still a risk of deformation and destruction of the plastic double-glazed window.

For those who want to avoid problems with windows, but do not want to give up natural wood, there is an excellent solution.

To compensate for shrinkage, it is necessary to mount the window not in the opening, but in a frame fixed in a floating way (without fastening to the wall). Due to this, it is possible to eliminate the influence of deformation on the frame, and therefore on the window.

Kinds

Modern windows are divided into different types depending on size, shape, material and design features.

Single leaf

This option is not expensive at all. It is great for kitchens, hallways and similar small spaces.

Bivalve

This model is the most common. It is suitable for both apartments and private houses. The doors of the structure can open in a vertical or horizontal plane, which makes them even more practical and convenient.

Tricuspid

This type is indispensable for houses made of timber or other materials with large rooms. Wide panoramic windows with three sashes will become a real decoration of the living room or spacious bedroom.

The room will be very light, and you will not have to make additional openings in the walls.

Deaf

Such windows have the simplest design and low price because they are not designed to be opened or closed. Blind frames are perfect for the ground floor or basement in a one-story house. They can be rectangular, round and even triangular.

Depending on the material used, there are two main types of windows.

Wooden (regular and euro)

Such options are distinguished by their environmental friendliness, strength, durability, variety of configurations, and ease of repair. They have an attractive appearance and fit perfectly into the facade of the finished house. However, such models are much more expensive than their PVC counterparts. It is also worth considering that after five years of operation of ordinary wooden windows, the structures will have to be constantly treated with special compounds to prevent the material from rotting and the appearance of cracks.

Frames for modern euro-windows are made of laminated veneer lumber, not solid wood. In this case, the wood fibers are located in different directions. Thanks to this, the structures become even stronger, more durable and more practical. Typically, wood species such as pine, larch, and oak are chosen for making windows.

Plastic

Such designs are distinguished by their affordable cost, tightness, high levels of sound and heat insulation, and a variety of designs. They are unpretentious in maintenance, resistant to mechanical damage and adverse environmental influences.

However, plastic cannot always fit into the overall appearance of a wooden structure. In addition, this material does not allow air to pass through at all, and PVC structures cannot be repaired, so any scratches will remain on the profile forever.

Also, poorly installed plastic structures are significantly inferior to wooden ones in terms of thermal insulation.

How to choose?

When choosing a double-glazed window, you should focus on certain parameters.

• Number of cameras. There are single- and double-chamber double-glazed windows. The more chambers, the better the sound and heat insulation. If you live in a region with a cold climate, then opt for two cameras.

• Type of glass. Depending on the type of glass, its performance characteristics also change. The most common are glasses coated with silver ions (they are called low-emissivity). In summer, they do not let heat into the room, and in winter they do not allow heat to escape outside.

• Distance between glasses. The degree of noise and heat insulation depends on this factor. At a distance of 16 millimeters, the indicators increase, at 24 mm they remain unchanged, and at higher parameters they decrease.

• Filling the chambers. Today, inert gas is increasingly used to fill chambers instead of dry air. Due to this, heat loss is minimal. Argon filling is also in demand due to its availability. Krypton and xenon fillings are expensive.

How to install?

When installing windows in a wooden house, shrinkage is an important point. If the structure is made of rounded or chopped logs, planed or profiled timber, then during the first 3-5 years the shrinkage will be 6-15% of the height of the structure. Shrinkage of houses made of laminated veneer lumber is approximately 2%. But even such a small indicator can have a negative impact on the windows if they are installed incorrectly.

Let's consider the algorithm for installing a window in a wooden house using plastic structures as an example.

• Place the frame in the opening and temporarily fix it there to accurately adjust the size and connect it to the frame.
• Level the edge using a laser or bubble level. Place wedges of different sizes under each post to achieve a perfectly level position and eliminate even the slightest distortion.
• Insert the side braces. They guarantee that the same wall-to-frame distance is maintained. If the frame width is smaller than the opening, an expansion profile should be inserted. This option is better than using foam.
• Align the frame vertically. After this, proceed to fastening the structure, starting with the side posts. To do this, make holes in the wood to insert dowels.
• Attach the ebb into the corresponding groove under the frame, fill the gap with foam.
• Attach the decorative trims to the doors and install the handle.
• Install double-glazed windows on special linings that will prevent the window from bursting.
• Hammer the top, bottom and side beads.
• Seal the installation seam with foam.

Everything is ready, all that remains is to make the window sill.

• Do not install windows and doors immediately after building a wooden house; wait until the structure shrinks.
• Use sliding joints when installing windows to prevent structural deformation.
• If you do not want to do the work yourself, you can turn to specialists. In this case, check the warranty period for window installation services. It must be at least 3 years old.
• Make a preliminary detailed drawing of the window location.

The use of natural wood in construction is gaining momentum due to its safety in relation to the environment and human health.

The appearance of a house made of timber differs from banal brick “boxes”. To make it aesthetically pleasing, it is important to select and install windows correctly.

Features of installing plastic windows in a timber house

Having completed the main construction, the owner of a wooden house asks himself: to install plastic windows himself, while saving money, or to entrust the installation to professionals. The answer is clear: it is better to order the installation from specialists, since it requires a certain technology. Companies specializing in such services know how to insert a double-glazed window into a timber structure to avoid negative consequences from installation errors, and the work will take a minimum amount of time.
A plastic window cannot simply be inserted into the opening; first a special structure is created. It is several centimeters larger than the glass unit itself in case the wood dries out and will not allow it to be squeezed out or compressed. The casing, or frame, strengthens the wall and takes the load upon itself. Using this technology, there is no need to wait for the shrinkage process, but you can install double-glazed windows immediately after the completion of the construction of a wooden house.
Stages of casing manufacturing:

• Special ridges are cut into the window opening.
• A window carriage with a groove is put on.
• The upper part of the casing is attached to the carriages with self-tapping screws.

Important: the design of the frame should be 8 cm less in height than the window opening itself. After attaching the casing, the installation of double-glazed windows begins.

The peculiarity of installing plastic windows in a house made of timber is that the platbands are attached to the casing, and not to the wall. Even if they are damaged, it is easier to replace the platband itself than the entire glass unit.
Main functions of casing:

• Installation of a window opening design independent from the walls of the house.
• Installation of the gap between the window and the upper beam.
• Installation of connections between vertical beams in the window opening.

Popular projects on our website

Prices for wooden and plastic windows: which is preferable for use?

Prices for wooden and plastic windows vary for each individual manufacturer. Prices for PVC products are, on average, 30% lower. Sometimes this is due to the use of wood with a high cost, and sometimes due to unreasonable markup on the part of the manufacturer. The price of each specific product depends on the raw materials that were used as a basis.

Manufacturers offer a wide range of plastic windows: from economy models to exclusive options. Therefore, the price range is wide. The market offers double-glazed windows made from cheap raw materials, which are characterized by low quality and health hazards.
Such models will not last long, so it is important to purchase windows only from trusted manufacturers.
Depending on how high-quality the product you ordered, how correctly it was installed and how accurately you followed the care instructions, the service life depends. On average, wooden windows last 50 years, and plastic ones ─ 45. But focusing only on the operating time is wrong; it is important to know some other points.

Installation of PVC window. Casing. Okosyachka.

Another criterion when choosing windows is reliability. When comparing, it turns out that PVC products win in all respects.
When exposed to sunlight, a wooden frame takes on a dark tint. It is prone to rapid combustion. Scratches formed during use are extremely difficult to repair.
Wooden windows often harbor beetles and other insects that are difficult to get rid of.
Scratches on the plastic frame are easily removed; it is less demanding. Over time, such windows can be laminated.

Comfort in the home is important to every person. Another argument in favor of purchasing plastic windows is the installation of additional functions:

• ventilation valves allow air to penetrate even when the window is closed;
• The “winter/summer” mechanism allows you to adjust the volume of air flow.

An important component for the long-term service of PVC windows is high-quality installation and subsequent finishing of window openings. To do this, the features of wooden buildings must be taken into account.

Pros and cons of plastic windows in a timber house

If differences in pricing policy did not help you make a choice, then after studying the pros and cons of plastic windows in a log house, making a decision is much easier.

PVC double-glazed windows are used in construction much more often than alternative options due to the absence of significant disadvantages. But they still exist:
The installation of plastic windows in a timber structure differs from the typical installation method. It is more labor-intensive and time-consuming.
Some companies use cheap plastic in production, so they should be ordered only from companies that have a license and quality certificates.
There are many more advantages when installing such double-glazed windows in wooden houses:
A variety of colors, shapes, designs, fittings and components. White windows do not always harmonize with wooden walls. But specialized stores offer a wide range: double-glazed windows in brown or wood imitation, which will harmoniously fit into the style of the house.
Excellent thermal conductivity. Timber with plastic windows retains heat well.
The owner of a log house, having chosen PVC double-glazed windows, can safely count on high sound and heat insulation, which reduces heating costs.
Ease of maintenance and durability of use are the main arguments in favor of purchasing plastic windows.

Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and beams, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this point is decisive in installing plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But that's not true. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that is not all. Wood not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs it. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

• Shrinkage in a log house is about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
• Shrinkage in a house made of timber is about 7 - 10 mm per beam with a section of 150x150 mm
• Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log houses as a percentage: approximately 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

• on the material (log, rounded log, timber, laminated timber);
• on the time of material procurement (winter procurement or summer);
• depending on the time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - we explored this too!
• from where the forest grew (swamp, field);on the degree of resinity and density of the tree;
• on the size of the material - both its length and thickness;
• from the moisture content of the material;
• on the size of the building;on construction technology (dowel, type of felling, etc.);
• from the material of inter-crown insulation;from the type of wood;
• depending on the time of year when construction is carried out.

The most severe shrinkage occurs in log houses made of ordinary logs, followed by rounded logs, profiled beams, timber, and laminated veneer lumber.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase and or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.

Wooden house - Living

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is carried out not in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a connecting link between the window and the wall. This box is called differently: casing, frame, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window box made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beams) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held in place by grooves in the side posts mounted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the window frame - only tow, jute (flax batting) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage gap

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the jamb, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible amount of shrinkage of the logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (timber) of the opening, if calculated correctly, will not press down or deform the frame. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not in any way affect the size and shape of the window frame, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window located inside it.

Shrinkage gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house that has long gone through the process of shrinkage, then, when disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. They are not nailed to the logs of the opening, but are fixed in it using a simple tongue-and-groove system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology of installing windows and doors in a wooden house in frames was invented a very long time ago, and is used successfully to this day. We will not invent anything new and will follow the same path.

There are several ways to install the pigtail (more details at the link):

• T-shaped frame - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, and a T-shaped profile is placed into it;
• U-shaped - the tenon is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side casing posts).

We do both options, since they provide maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the frame not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:We cut out an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which are slightly larger than the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for the T-shaped pigtail;

We form a spike for a U-shaped pigtail;

We make the parts of the pigtail;

We install the window frame in the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house into a frame, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such length that they do not pierce through the frame and do not go into the logs);

We blow foam into the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the frame, not forgetting about the installation of waterproofing (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for rough frame under cladding, for finishing it is not required since the window rests on the quarter) of the foam seam;

we install external platbands (we attach them to the casing);

we carry out the interior finishing of the window (window sill, slopes - not required for finishing the frame, since it is the slopes and window sill).

We use foam only inside the pigtail. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute fabric.

Over the next 5 years (if the house is newly built), we will have to periodically remove the platbands and gradually reduce the amount of insulation put in there. If this is not done, the upper parts may bend.

Even after the house has completely settled, the gaps around the casing should under no circumstances be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before cutting, we mark the window opening using a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly level in all planes, therefore the frame must also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible according to the level initially.

The lower crown in the opening needs to be sawed through so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.

We determine the dimensions of the opening based on the size of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

We perform all calculations visually. Here is an example of a diagram for calculating the size of the opening for a rough T-shaped frame:

Accordingly, we take a beam with a cross-section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a diagram for calculating the details of a p-type finishing socket:

For a U-shaped window frame, we cut out a U-shaped profile from solid timber.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage of the house, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, roughly calculate, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window with a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing crossbars, plus installation gaps of ~ 245 mm) with 15 percent shrinkage, the top gap will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which will most likely end up being too large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values ​​of building materials of various wood species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it simpler, namely:

If you are building a new house, then start installing windows no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, when manufacturing and installing the frame, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a timber house and 40 mm for a house made of laminated veneer lumber;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, just to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it and cut it out. Now you need to cut out a tenon at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The tenon is also marked using a level in the center of the log (beam).

We make the tenon size 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We cover the sides and bottom of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making a pigtail

First, you need to decide on the width of the frame bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be a little larger, so that later, when installing external trims, they (the trims) fit tightly and unhindered on the frame, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a groove around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, to make a pigtail you need to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will soon deform as it dries.

First we cut out the bottom part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill we cut a groove for a tenon 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

We also make small 20 mm recesses at the ends of both window sills for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make the side posts 70 mm higher than the height of the plastic window frame. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut out a groove for a tenon 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock in the side posts for the upper part.

Lastly, we make the top part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installation of the pigtail

We begin installing the frame into the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then the top is inserted into the opening, under which we place the side posts one by one, placing them with grooves on the tenons.

We fasten the elements of the frame together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not obligatory), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the parts do not bend.

We close the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. More details in the article ""

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Now you can begin installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window, aligning it with the front edge of the frame. There is no need to place a window inside a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, due to the lower thermal conductivity coefficient of wood (smaller freezing depth).

Moreover, given the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, by deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to trim the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result on the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken with a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details, see the photo report made from photographs from a thermal imager here.

Rough frame for cladding

If you have calculated the dimensions of the opening and the frame as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame when installing in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (we do not make the bottom gap larger, because the stand profile makes it possible later place a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to attach the frame to the frame with the help of self-tapping screws of such a size that they fit into the body of the frame, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws longer than the thickness of the frame is dangerous because they will pass through the frame and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.

Provided that all preparatory work has been done using a level, the window frame should fit exactly along the frame, i.e. the front edge of the frame should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Waterproofing a window from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the frame, we need to decide what material we will use to waterproof the installation seam on the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If from the sun's rays we can simply cover the installation seam with platbands or flashings, then with waterproofing the situation is more complicated, because it must meet two basic conditions: not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by materials such as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant “STIZ-A”.
Sealant "STIZ-A" - a one-component, vapor-permeable acrylic sealant of white color for sealing the outer layer - is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, among others.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at temperatures as low as -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find in small containers, and buying a whole bucket makes sense when you are installing a lot of windows. If you choose “STIZ-A” as external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, we cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Waterproofing vapor-permeable tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with an adhesive layer of sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, ensure it is oriented correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (don’t forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, air passage is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to “blow through” the tape is the outer (street) side.

The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not matter much, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding when drying, not only stretches the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing platbands), but in general it can tear it away from the window or frame.

Therefore, if you first stick the tape, then screw the platbands or hard strips on top of it immediately, and only then foam it. Or foam it first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, thanks to which it is waterproofing and vapor-permeable. Supplied compressed, rolled into rollers.

If you choose PSUL tape, then buy one that expands more than 30 mm. The PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end next to the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to cover the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The installation seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has completely expanded and closed the installation gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding as it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL on the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal vapor barrier of windows

On the inside, the foam should also not remain open to prevent moisture from entering it from the air in the room. To install an internal vapor barrier, you can use vapor barrier tape, which has already been discussed in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 (“STIZ-B”).

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. Before the foam under the tape hardens, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise later the tape “bloated” with foam will interfere with this.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, or more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install the window sills and the starting profile, as when using tape. Nothing will prevent you from doing this later, when it is convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes to install the slopes - we fasten everything with self-tapping screws into the wood (into the frame).

There is also no need to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam plastic or other material. To be on the safe side, before installing the slopes, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the installation seam. This will be enough, because wood does not freeze as deeply as concrete or brick.

Like a window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve, in my opinion, a greater aesthetic effect, but for this you will need a good woodworking machine to evenly cut out the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, which will be install a plastic window.

What a reverse quarter is can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which the window frame will be installed on the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: a 5-chamber VEKA has a profile thickness of 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 70 mm.

It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the frame and the window, carefully assemble the frame and install the frame in the opening exactly at the level - the internal clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all edges of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without distortion. In order not to make a mistake in the dimensions, it is better to first make and install the window frame, and only then accurately measure and order the plastic window locally.

Let's assume that the window frame is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made such that it is slightly larger than the “clearance” of the casing, or more precisely: 10 mm more in width and the same amount in height. Such a window will not fit into the frame from the inside, but it will easily fit into the reverse quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (this is no longer possible - the sash hinges will interfere), and an installation gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful tight connection between the frame and the casing on the room side, you can use a D-shaped door seal. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But as practice shows, with high-quality production of the pigtail, the need for such an addition disappears. The window is placed directly into the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the frame.

When attaching the frame, we press it tightly against the quarter, squeezing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window is foamed from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with waterproofing tape or sealed with “STIZ-A” sealant, and the trim is installed.

Of course, since we refuse to decorate the casing with any additional elements, we must refine it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.

First of all, you need to give the bottom crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.

Secondly, we “dawn” the internal surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross-section) shape of these elements and create a large chamfer, simulating a reversal of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options here: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and coat it with varnish. You can cover the wood with stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and/or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more expensive option - to brush the surface, i.e. antiqued treatment.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood using a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of lint and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately coat the wood with varnish, but “aged” wood will look much more impressive after treating it with stain of the color you want. However, there is an even more effective way of painting - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved using paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth before the paint has had time to dry. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. You can then rub the surface with a soft cloth to add shine.

Due to their performance characteristics, double-glazed windows made of PVC material have gained particular popularity among the population. They are installed in buildings and structures made of concrete, brick, and wood. Installing plastic windows in a wooden house requires following certain rules.

Important installation details

When starting the installation, you need to prepare the equipment you will need: a building level and a plumb line, and also know how to insert a plastic window. It is necessary to install a PVC window strictly observing the placement in a level plane. This will ensure the correct operation of all elements, the doors will not open or close spontaneously.

The technology for installing a PVC window involves its correct placement in a level plane

When purchasing plastic structures, you need to buy additional special fasteners for installation. The frame is fixed in the frame of a wooden structure using self-tapping screws and special fasteners. By following the technological process and correctly installing plastic windows in a wooden house, you are guaranteed to receive window units that will last for a long time.

If you dismantle the sashes, the structure will become much lighter and it will be easier to move it, however, installing metal-plastic windows in a wooden house alone is still not recommended. To remove the doors, you need to remove the pins from the hinges.

How to install PVC double-glazed windows

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a wooden house is carried out in stages:

• preparatory activities before installation;
• installation of PVC windows;
• control and verification of location in space;
• blowing with foam.

To understand how to install plastic windows both in a wooden house and in a timber or log house, let’s look at each stage in more detail.

Carrying out preparatory work

First of all, you need to take exact dimensions by measuring the opening and order the window structure from a trusted manufacturer. To do this, most often they invite a representative of a company that produces plastic frames. You can take measurements yourself. After this, they determine the color of the structure and the completeness of the fittings necessary for the functioning of the window.

When the manufacturer delivers the product to the site, the following steps must be completed:

• if a decision is made to replace the installed windows in the old opening, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the structure;
• after which they clean dust, dirt and remove debris that got into the opening from dismantling;
• It is worth aligning the opening if its geometry is broken.

Having completed the preparation, they insert a plastic window into a wooden house with their own hands.

Fastening the window structure into the prepared opening

We install the window sill first; it will be the base for the double-glazed windows, so it needs to be placed strictly level (horizontally). For fastening strength, notches are made on the sides of the box approximately 8 mm deep. Adjustment is carried out using plastic plates or boards. Fastening occurs with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the box. When screwing in, you should place washers under the screw head; this will prevent damage to the surface.

The next step is to properly install the handle. The film that protects the structures should not be removed; it protects them from damage when the windows are installed. When attaching, the handle must be placed horizontally. When all the fittings have been assembled, the installation of metal-plastic windows begins.

First you need to level the PVC frame. A frame is placed on two-centimeter bars and leveled horizontally, using a water level. After this, they move on to vertical alignment.

Having obtained ideal parameters at the water level, they fix the frame with self-tapping screws to the frame, using mounting fasteners that were specially purchased in the store. It is important not to get the self-tapping screw into the ridge of the log where the socket is installed.

Secure the frame with self-tapping screws

After attaching the window element, we get 2-centimeter gaps around it for the mounting foam.

Before using polyurethane foam, you need to hang the shutters so that after foaming the frame profile does not bend and damage the window. It is important to remember that foam can only be used when the sash is closed..

Control and foaming of the structure

After hanging the sashes, you need to check how the double-glazed window opens and closes. If a window that is half open does not close or move further, then the frame is considered to be installed correctly and the alignment is correct. After closing the sash, foam it with installation foam and leave it for complete fixation for a day.

Why is casing made for plastic windows in a log house?

To get high-quality PVC windows in a wooden house, you need to strictly follow the installation specifications, that is, install them on a special frame (base). The need for such a design is due to the characteristics of wooden buildings. Unlike a building made of stone (concrete or brick), a wooden panel house is unstable over a long period.

The building will be completed within the first five years after its construction. In this case, the walls dry out up to 6 cm. This important nuance must be taken into account when installing a plastic window in a frame house. It is clear that you cannot simply insert a plastic window into a wooden house; you need to create a structure for the opening, which is called a casing, or they also say a window frame. Its direct purpose is to prevent the frame from being affected by wall shrinkage, so the socket:

• strengthens the opening;
• bears the load;
• prevents the effects of shrinkage.

The pigtail looks like a box made from thick boards. The structure is attached to the side rack on a groove, no fasteners are used. There remains a gap above the jamb to compensate for shrinkage for a wooden house. There are several options for installing it:

• A groove is cut in the log into which the block is placed. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the last element of the embedded beam;
• a groove is cut out in the racks on the sides of the structure, a tenon is cut out from the end of the log in the opening;
• A groove is made at the end of the logs, and a tenon is placed on the side posts of the box.

To get a high-quality design, you need to follow the technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. To begin with, cover the ridges of the logs with insulation and secure it with staples or small nails. This stage is necessary to insulate the house and eliminate creaks. Then the lower crossbar of the casing is mounted, and carriages (side posts of the frame) are stuffed onto the ridges, and the upper jumper is placed in the upper groove of the posts. After collecting the box, carefully connect it with self-tapping screws, it is important that they do not get into the logs.

The gaps that are visible in the opening after installing the casing must be filled with tow or insulation. Then the standard installation of plastic windows in a frame house or log house takes place.

The compensation gap is filled with flat boards pre-wrapped with tow. As the walls shrink, they are gradually knocked out. To do this, remove the top casing and, having knocked out the board, put it back.

The final stage when glazing a wooden structure

The final finishing after installing PVC windows in a log house is done in the same way as wooden ones, that is, after installing the frame structure and insulation, wooden platbands are installed. When ordering PVC windows in a wooden structure, you should take a closer look at the option with a wood texture, this will allow them to look harmonious against the background of the felled structure.

Many manufacturers of PVC structures offer not only the classic white color option for frames. You can order any shade that the customer desires. Colored plastic frames will cost a little more, but will be a more suitable option for a home made of natural materials.

When ordering, it is important to take the correct measurements of the opening and not make a mistake in the width of the window sill. Self-installation of a PVC window in a wooden house if you know all the nuances is not such a difficult process. You can do it yourself, without resorting to the help of expensive installers.