Master class on making unusual wooden boxes. DIY wooden box

The tree is universal material. Various items are made from it that will become original. A good option would be a DIY wooden box. You can store small jewelry, valuable coins and other items in it. Also, such a product will decorate the interior of the room.

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History of the boxes

Boxes began to be made in ancient times. One of the first countries was Egypt. Egyptian women were very proud of these caskets, as they had an exquisite appearance.

In Japan and China, these items were made from valuable and rare wood. They were decorated with carvings and hand painting.

Caskets were used to store valuables and jewelry. Clothes and large items were placed in bulky chests. It is believed that precisely on the basis latest designs smaller analogues were made.

In addition, caskets were widely used in various myths. So, Cleopatra kept in them not only jewelry and decorations, but also a dagger and poison. But the most famous item is Pandora's Box.

Types of boxes

If we talk about chests for storing jewelry and decorations, they can be divided into several types.

Among popular options worth highlighting:

  1. Wooden crafts. They have many advantages. They are distinguished by their affordable cost, wide range, aesthetics and originality. For production use various woods. allows you to create designs various configurations. Used for decoration carving or painting.
  2. Leather designs. Such products may have different style and sizes. As for the surface, it can be smooth, rough and embossed. This also applies to shade. Precious and semi-precious stones and metals are used to decorate the casket. Such products will become optimal replacement wooden structures.
  3. Metal box. Such caskets are found rarely. Especially if they are made from precious metals. Thus, the silver casket dates back to the Victorian era. A less popular material is stainless steel. Often metal boxes have small sizes. This is due to the complexity of manufacturing.
  4. Unique products. Less commonly, you can find caskets made of glass, bone, stone and other materials. They are especially popular. For boxes use transparent or panoramic glass. More rare specimens are a box made of porcelain, bamboo and other original materials.

Materials for making boxes

For making caskets they use various materials.

Among the common options it is worth highlighting:


In fact, a do-it-yourself box is made from various materials.

Some models are exclusive, and you can find them in Everyday life almost impossible.

Here it is worth highlighting structures made of metals, such as gold and silver. They are often decorated precious stones. An equally rare option is an ivory casket.

If we talk about making a casket with your own hands, then it’s better to stop choosing on wood or MDF.

DIY wooden box

For manufacturing you will need certain tools and a design drawing. With certain skills, you can easily make a casket yourself.

Making tool

To make a box with your own hands, you need to have the following materials on hand:

  • manual or electric jigsaw;
  • a set of various files;
  • wood saw for cutting material;
  • screwdriver in case of connecting parts with self-tapping screws;
  • hammer;
  • wood files;
  • sandpaper for grinding workpieces;
  • paint, rollers and other finishing equipment.

You should start by drawing up a drawing or sketch of the structure.

We prepare diagrams and drawings

To make a beautiful and bright thing, you need to make detailed drawing and product diagram. In this case, you need to decide on the size and appearance designs.


Box drawing
compiled in the following sequence:

  • choose a design and transfer it to paper as a sketch;
  • set approximate dimensions;
  • cut from paper blanks and compare them to see the dimensions of the future casket;
  • if the dimensions are satisfactory, then draw up a drawing with the appropriate dimensions;

If necessary, the dimensions can be adjusted to suit your preferences. You should start cutting the material only after all the dimensions satisfy your wishes. So, how to make a wooden box step by step?

How to cut out spare parts correctly

Based on the prepared drawing, cutting is carried out. This process can be performed independently or in a special workshop. The cutting sheet is formed based on the drawing. To do this, use paper templates or computer programs.

Using the prepared cutting sheet, the walls, bottom and lid of the box are cut. Care must be taken when performing this work.

The cutting must be carried out exactly along the intended lines. If there are any deviations, then in the future this will somewhat complicate the connection of parts. To improve the quality of cutting, it is worth using in the process electric jigsaw.

How to make and attach a lid

The lid is made according to different technologies. It all depends on your wishes. So, it can match the size of the bottom. In this case, there will be no problems with manufacturing. At the cutting stage, the bottom and top of the chest are made in the same sizes.

The cover may have non-standard sizes. In other words, it is larger than the bottom and goes beyond the walls. In this case, the main thing is to position the curtains correctly so that the lid rises above the entire structure. This can only be done by correctly calculating the dimensions of the part.

Volumetric high lids are made very simply. To begin with, the rim of the required height is knocked down. After this, it is covered with a plank. If desired, you can bend the part slightly. As a result, this will give the lid elegance.

Box hinges are used to secure the lid. When fastening a part, its features are taken into account. So, the fittings can be attached to the edge of the lid or its middle: it all depends on the size.

The method of installation of the curtains is also important. They can be attached from above or cut into parts. In the latter case, it is necessary to make indentations in back wall and on the lid. Small screws are used to secure the fittings.

Screw the screws into wooden parts you need to be very careful. Otherwise, the wood may split.

Lock

The lock for the box is installed depending on the person’s preferences. Such fittings often do not perform a protective function, but are original addition. The best option would be a mortise model lock system. The lock can also be attached to the inside of the front cover. But this option is only possible if the key is of sufficient length.

Avoiding shortcomings

To avoid during the manufacture of the box surprises and mistakes, you need to follow some rules. First of all, this concerns the rules of wood processing:

  • cutting and cutting must be done according to the drawn up drawing;
  • stencils will simplify the task of cutting;
  • before sawing the material, you need to make sure that the dimensions are transferred correctly;
  • usage electric jigsaw will improve the quality of cutting and speed up the production of parts;
  • the ends must be smooth;
  • all workpieces are processed sandpaper, this especially applies to cutting areas;
  • Screwing in self-tapping screws must be done very carefully, especially at the ends.

Also, don't forget about coverage. wooden products protective paints and varnishes. This will extend their service life. But how to decorate a wooden box so that it looks original?

Decorating the box

After the box is made, you can start decorating it. Today there are many ways to make a product original. decoration method. To process without special problems, you need to choose the right material.

Among the popular options it is worth highlighting:

  1. Linden. The core has a soft and uniform structure. The wood does not crack or warp. The material is also easy to cut, allowing for clean edges.
  2. Cedar. Wood of this species can be easily cut in any direction.
  3. Pine or spruce. The material is used extremely rarely. This is due to the fact that wood has numerous knots. But the advantage of the material is its plasticity, which makes it easy to geometric carving.
  4. Juniper. The wood is easy to saw and sand.

Important! As for oak, it is better to avoid it; it is very difficult to process and has a fairly high fragility.

To carve, you need to prepare a certain set of tools and patterns. The main working tool is a chisel, the width of which is 2 cm. It is also necessary to follow safety rules during work. You need to make sure that your fingers are not in the work area.

Useful video: how to make a box yourself

If you have certain skills and knowledge, everyone can make and decorate a casket with their own hands. The main thing is to approach the choice of style responsibly and draw up drawings. A wooden box will not only become optimal place for storing jewelry, but also decorates the interior.

The most detailed master class on making a series of boxes was sent to us by Oleg Sopov from Tyumen.

Materials furniture board and plywood. We take a pre-glued pine board and also cut it into equal parts.

We cut the plywood into equal sheets.

Then we set the saw to make a groove for the plywood.

We go through it once, then we move the saw and go through it again, and so on on both sides. There is still some wood left between the 2 cuts. Now we also just move the ruler back a little bit.

The width of both cuts should be equal to the thickness of the plywood

After the final cut (remove the jumper), we check whether the plywood fits into the groove.

Since we will then glue everything together, there will be no opportunity to remove the edge inside, so we remove it now. To do this, we set up the cutter and try it first on some other block, if everything suits you, then you can mill our panels

The inner part is where the groove is, it is on this side that the edge needs to be removed

Now you can cut everything to size. We set the ruler to the distance we need, turn the saw 45 degrees and cut off all the panels

The parts are pressed in on both sides.

Now we are preparing for gluing; we prepare tape, a wet rag and glue in advance.

We check the geometry of the parts by putting them together.

Now we take the shields we need and try them on to see if everything fits. After this, we begin to glue all the joints, inside and out, as in the photo.

It should look like this smooth “footcloth”

Then we insert the plywood and put everything together, everything fits perfectly

We trially roll the box and see how the grooves, inserts and burrs behave.

We unfold and disassemble the structure
Now we take everything apart and you can apply glue. We coat the grooves and corners with it.

We do all the manipulations again. We also tighten the last joint with tape

Now we wait until everything dries. After it has dried, it may turn out that the box does not have a plane and it wobbles. To level it you need a flat surface and sandpaper.

We put the paper on the table and press it, then rub it with a box on the surface and the surface is leveled

Since the gluing at 45 degrees is very weak, it needs to be strengthened. I will make inserts from oak, they will strengthen the joint and will perform decorative role to make it you need to make such a device

It allows you to saw through the corners of the box

The next photo shows an earbud with a variable pitch of 3.5 mm.

And then everything is simple, we take the linings, place them between the ruler and the box at the required distance and simply cut them on all 4 sides. Three cuts per corner

Next we make the slats with the thickness of the cut. We outline with a pencil a little more than necessary and cut it into triangles with a jigsaw

It turns out this is a bunch of triangular liners.

We coat the grooves with glue and hammer the inserts into them.

We are waiting for the glue to dry.

After drying, sand off excess

Now we mill the corners on the box; for this we take a molding cutter with the required radius.

You get these neat roundings.

After this, we take a slotted round cutter and mill a sample along the contour of our cover.

It turns out like this semicircular groove.

We do it on three sides - front and sides

After this, you need to take something round in the shape of a cylinder. I took the marker. We wrap sandpaper around the marker and sand our groove.

After sanding, you need to cut off the cover. Nothing complicated, just as usual we set the ruler in such a way that the saw passes along our groove

We make a slit on one side, then turn it over and make the next cut, and so on in a circle.

On the last side when you cut through better cover pull away from the saw, not push. This way you definitely won’t overextend

Well, we grind the plane again on a flat surface. And don’t forget to peel off the tape from the inside where the glue remains

This way we fit the lid exactly to the walls.

Now it’s time for the hinges, I didn’t initially know what kind of hinges there would be, and it so happened that the hinges I bought had the same diameter as the wall thickness.

There is a way out of this situation and it is quite simple. I was lucky again, I found a couple of ready-made small shields in the workshop. I processed these shields at a minimum. I put it through a thicknesser to make sure it was level, then I tried it on and cut it to the required length. We take the inner length, since it’s better not to glue anything on the outside, it will be very noticeable

Carefully, in several passes, we adjust them to the inner width of the box.

We cut off the part protruding from the top and put it in the lid.

Coat with glue

And clamp it with clamps.

After gluing, we sand everything and move on. Installing hinges. I didn’t mark the middle; I placed the marks closer to the inside of the box. This will allow the lid of the box to open not 180 degrees, but less. That is, the lid will rest against the back wall, thereby preventing it from falling completely in the opposite direction. Drill out the holes with a drill bit.

To do this, you still need to cut off a small corner. To do this, we set the angle we need, I took 45. And we simply cut it off from the back wall (where we did not select a semicircular groove with a cutter)

What remains uncut, we simply grind. You don't need much effort for this. Now let's make a handle, so to speak. To do this, first make 2 holes. Decide for yourself where to place them.

Then we turn the saw at an angle and set the ruler so that the saw fits directly into the circle
After this, we move the ruler a little so that the saw is tangential to the circle of the hole. We do the same on the other side, but now all this must be done with the saw in reverse. If someone doesn’t know what this means, reverse motion means we start the part with reverse side saws

After this, set the saw straight and cut off the remaining part of the handle in several passes.

Then the only small thing left is to sand everything well. And install the hinges in the holes. By the way, loops of this type have two grooves on the sides. They are made specifically for self-tapping screws. Be sure to unscrew the screws into these grooves. Even if the loop fits tightly into the hole.

I covered the box with stain and varnish on top. The box became smooth and pleasant to the touch.

If you are covering it with stain, then good sanding is required. Since the stain will reveal all the defects. You can cover it with oil, under the oil the jambs are not visible. But pine is not very suitable for oil, since it is soft wood. This is the advantage of varnish - it gives hardness

You can also glue silicone legs like I did. With them the box stands better and does not slip

The box is one of the most common products among woodworkers. If you wish, you can make such a box with your own hands.

Planks made of pine, linden, and alder are suitable materials for it; they are easier to process and cut. First, we determine the size and thickness of the walls. As an example, consider a box measuring 10:10:8 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm. You will need 2 boards 1 cm thick. One 8 cm wide and 40 cm long and the other 10 cm wide and 20 m long. From the long one we cut 4 sidewalls measuring 8 by 10 cm. And from the other, the top and bottom measuring 10 by 10 cm. To join the sidewalls, mark with inside thickness for cutting.

We cut the bevel with a jamb knife at 45 degrees and adjust the joint with sandpaper or on a block. It is good to use a special device to assemble parts.

The main thing here is that it is rigid and has angles of 90 degrees. After adjusting the sidewalls, glue the parts together using PVA glue. Then glue the bottom and top. We wait a day for gluing and bring the workpiece to an even cube using sandpaper. Then, at a distance of 2 cm from the top, we draw a line and carefully saw through each side of the workpiece with a hacksaw.

We polish the resulting parts and chamfer the hinges on the back side of the box so that they sink a little. You can buy ready-made hinges for the box, or you can make it yourself, for example from a metal coffee can.

A thin wire can be used as an axis. We put it in the middle, and bend the loop blank around it, crimp it with pliers. To prevent the lid of the box from moving, we drill in the front wall and lid small holes and insert a dowel into the bottom one.

Now you can decorate the box in different ways: carving, painting, decoupage, burning, etc. as your imagination dictates.

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The box is one of the most common products among woodworkers. If you wish, you can make such a box with your own hands.

As for DIY wooden box Planks made of pine, linden, and alder are suitable - they are easier to process and cut. First, we determine the size and thickness of the walls. As an example, consider a box measuring 10:10:8 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm. You will need 2 boards 1 cm thick. One 8 cm wide and 40 cm long and the other 10 cm wide and 20 m long. From the long one we cut 4 sidewalls measuring 8 by 10 cm. And from the other, the top and bottom are measuring 10 by 10 cm. To join the sidewalls, mark the thickness for trimming on the inside:
We cut the bevel with a jamb knife at 45 degrees and adjust the joint with sandpaper or on a block. To assemble parts, it is good to use a special device:
The main thing here is that it is rigid and has angles of 90 degrees. After adjusting the sidewalls, glue the parts together using PVA glue. Then glue the bottom and top. We wait a day for gluing and bring the workpiece to an even cube using sandpaper. Then, at a distance of 2 cm from the top, we carefully saw through each side of the workpiece with a hacksaw:
We polish the resulting parts and chamfer the hinges on the back side of the box so that they sink a little. You can buy the hinges for the box ready-made, or you can, for example, from a metal coffee can:
A thin wire can be used as an axis. We put it in the middle, and bend the loop blank around it, crimp it with pliers. To prevent the lid of the box from moving, we drill small holes in the front wall and lid and insert a dowel into the bottom one:
Now you can do it in different ways: carving, painting, decoupage, burning, etc. as your imagination dictates.

Box blanks

Many wood craftsmen make beautiful, very wooden boxes. A jewelry box made of Karelian birch will decorate the interior of your home. How to do a simple box interesting shape and cut geometric carvings on it, see and read.

Wooden boxes must be made from dry material. I usually make it from birch, since the wood is uniform in density, cuts, paints and finishes well. I select birch without knots and cracks; the box blanks must be cut from boards of the same shade. If you cut out the parts and do not look at the shade and color of the board, then when varnishing a wood product you can get an uneven color.
170 x 125 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
150 x 48 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
90 x 48 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
800 x 28 x 10 mm - 1 piece
500 x 12 x 12 mm - 1 piece

First of all, on jointer We plane one side and the edge of the board, then use a surface planer to cut it to the required thickness, and then use a saw to cut out the dimensions of the workpieces.

Making a box

The main steps in making such a wooden box:

milling of blanks
gluing the box
carving on the box
interior decoration
tinting and varnishing

Milling blanks

Wooden boxes of this shape are made using a router. It is necessary to mill some individual parts before gluing. On milling machine I ran the lid and bottom on all four sides. I made four legs from a long piece. I overtook three sides and cut it on a saw to 40 x 28 mm. Then I milled the end and trimmed it again right size. I made four legs this way. On the corner fragments, I also selected an angle of 7 x 7 mm on the machine, from a long piece and sawed off four 35 mm pieces with a fine-tooth file. I chose 17 x 12 mm grooves at the ends of the long walls.

Gluing the box

Lately I've been using PVA glue for crafts. I always buy only professional ones and recommend them to you. The first thing you need to do is glue the walls together. Coat with a thin layer and knock down with small nails. We mark the lid and bottom evenly, coat the joints and place a weight on top and leave to dry. Again on the milling machine, installing the saw, I separate the cover from the base, leaving 10 mm of the glued base on the cover. I mark, coat the legs and corner pieces and glue them to the base of the box.

Carving on the box

Wooden boxes made of birch can be very beautifully carved using geometric carvings. Carvings on the lid of the box I mark the design with a hard, well-sharpened pencil. First of all, I draw the main drawing and add various combinations to it. When carving using only one cutter.

Interior decoration

Before pasting with material, you need to install two small loops. Having marked it evenly, we nail it with small nails, first to the lid, and then to the base. Having measured and cut the material, we coat the places on the box with glue and then carefully glue it. I use glue - moment.

Tinting and varnishing

The tinting of any wood product must be done carefully. Select the color on a sample piece. I do this using scraps from a box I'm making. Once you are sure that you have chosen what you wanted, proceed to tinting. When applying, rub well and cover evenly using a brush and a soft cloth. Let the wooden box dry thoroughly and only then start varnishing. I coat my wood products with waterproof varnish three times. I described earlier in the article how to make an unusual oval box. In the future I will show and tell you what other wooden boxes can be made.


There is a tradition of giving each other gifts during the holidays. Someone will run to the store and buy a lot of useless trinkets. But you and I certainly don’t need this: firstly, we can make anything ourselves, and secondly, the gift should not only be beautiful, but also practical, so that after the holiday it does not gather dust on the shelf. In addition, there will be something to do in the evenings free from gardening chores.
I propose to make such a wonderful box as a gift. Its shape can be very different, but, as an example, I suggest making a small box with a square-shaped lid. Its production has its own specific features, one of which is that it is assembled entirely - the body with the lid and bottom. I propose to make it with dimensions of 150x80x60 mm: cover -10x80x150 mm, bottom - plywood 12x80x150 mm, side - 10x50x150 mm, end side - 10x50x70 mm.
Gluing the box

First, I used a fine-toothed hacksaw to cut out four rectangular blanks from planed wooden planks– two long and two short, with the same width and the same thickness (10 mm). It is advisable to take linden for this, as it lends itself well to processing, can be easily planed with a plane and cleaned with sandpaper.
Before assembling the box, grooves for tenons are cut out in the long sidewalls, and tenons are cut out in the short end sidewalls according to the size of the grooves 4x4 mm. Having adjusted the grooves and tenons to the square, we assemble the box: the ends of the short sides are smeared with wood glue and placed in the grooves of the long sides, which are also smeared with glue. These sides can be fastened by compression with clamps or using specially made wooden sticks- dowels. At the moment of gluing, you need to work quickly and check with a square that the parts are correctly positioned.
The glued frame of the box must dry before the glue hardens. Usually a day is enough for this.

Bottom and cover

When the frame of the product is removed from the clamp, you need to align the edges to which the bottom will be glued and the lid will touch. To do this, you need to fix a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the edges on it with some effort.
Then the bottom is made of plywood and the lid is made of planks. The bottom and lid should be rectangular, slightly larger in size than the size of the glued box. I glue the prepared lid and bottom onto the walls of the box using preheated glue (in a water bath): I lubricate the surfaces of the lid, bottom and edges of the box with a thin layer, place the lid and bottom on the edges of the box and clamp it with a clamp. Please note: during this process, make sure that the lid or bottom does not move in any direction!
To allow the glue in the box to dry, I put it on the shelf. The box holds in a clamped state for about a day, then I remove the clamp, inspect it, plan the excess allowances on the edge and bottom with a plane, and then clean it with sandpaper. Along the perimeter of the lid, I use a plane to chamfer 14 mm wide and have a slope of 5 mm. Next, using a surface planer, I make a line at a distance of 20 mm from the top to cut the lid. Along the dividing line, you need to carefully cut the box lengthwise with a fine-toothed hacksaw (you can use a metal saw) on all four sides. This technique allows you to perfectly adjust the size of the lid to the size of the base of the box. The cut points should be ground in on a sheet of coarse sandpaper.

We hang the hinges

I hang the lid on the hinges with a cut-in and fastening the hinges with screws. You don’t always find hinges on sale small sizes And various shapes. If you don’t have the necessary hinges, you should make them yourself from metal or wood. Metal hinges can be single-layer or double-layer. I make two-layer loops, the process of making them is simpler. We bend a strip of metal in half, insert a nail into the bend and squeeze the metal around it in a vice. In the same way we make the second half of the loop. Then we mark the loop lengthwise into three parts. On one of the sides we file off the two outer parts, leaving the middle; on the other, on the contrary, we saw out the middle, leaving curls along the edges. We combine the twisted parts of both halves of the loop and insert a nail or wire inside, sharpening it on both sides
file. We cut off both sides of the hinges and drill holes, followed by countersinking them for screw heads.

Straw finish

Using a soft rag, I make a tampon, moisten it with stain and cover the box, after which I leave it to dry for 3-4 hours. After drying, I pass it with fine sandpaper so that there is no lint left. Before transferring the design, the wooden base is evenly wiped adhesive solution. The glue used is the same one that will later be used to attach the appliqué elements with straws. This technique creates a ground layer on which the parts of the straw set are firmly fixed.
In 2005, not far from our dachas, rye was sown in one field and wheat in another. Taking with me garden pruner, I went to these fields and cut rye and wheat straw. They differ well: wheat straw is lighter, and rye straw is darker. Rye straws have longer nodes, while wheat ones have shorter nodes, just like the straw itself. I cut the straws from knot to knot and put them in cardboard box, rye separately from wheat. Next I put the straw in a small enamel pan and pour boiling water over it for 30 minutes, after which I cut the straw on one side and immediately smooth it on the cardboard with a hot iron: first from the inside, and then from the outside. By the way, when you hold the iron longer on the straw, it turns out darker. I select the smoothed ribbon strips by width and put them in different boxes.
Strips of straw can be easily cut with a joint knife sharpened to an oblique width of 1 mm or 1.5 mm, depending on the design. We also cut into squares and diamonds. Circles can be cut out using a punch tube. This work is quite complex, almost like jewelry. I put all the cut out parts into matchboxes.

Let's start the application

Plan your drawing in advance, it all depends on your imagination. We apply the image this way:
pour a few drops of glue onto a piece of cardboard;
Using a pointed nail or awl, apply the straw piece and touch the drop of glue with its lower plane;
We transfer the part to the appropriate place, and to remove it from the tip of the tool, we lightly press it with a pointed stick, which we hold in the other hand;
Turn the stick over and press the part to the base with the flat end.
Then another part is applied and glued. And this is how the entire composition of the drawing is gradually filled in. Once we've finished one side of the box, move on to the next. When gluing the parts of the straw, I usually start by laying out the internal or external contours of the image, then the next row of the pattern is glued, etc., until all the planes of the composition are filled.
And if the walls of the box are decorated, gluing the straw parts should begin with laying out the outer perimeters, and then lay out the configurations of elements planned in advance in them.
Varnishing is done using a wide soft squirrel brush. The product dries and then, where necessary, is sanded in certain places. Just don’t get carried away with varnishes: excessive shine is not a sign of a well-made item!
The box is ready! If you did everything correctly and carefully, it can become a decoration for a buffet or chest of drawers and store many things dear to your heart.

DIY box using transcryl technique

Decoupage, craquelure, gilding – these decoration techniques have long been loved by our needlewomen. But what to do if you want to decorate the surface not with a stamped napkin design, but with your favorite photograph or a favorite magazine clipping?

In such cases, help creative people transcril comes - modern remedy to transfer images. Thanks to a special emulsion, today we will decorate a jewelry box.

Manufacturing:

DIY box using transcrete technique photo
1. From the very beginning, we need to paint the surface of the box, as is done for ordinary decoupage. We take a kitchen sponge (you can cut off half - we will use the other part later), squeeze acrylic paint from a tube onto it and apply an even layer of primer to the box. We only paint external sides products: lid and base of the box with bottom. Leave the painted surfaces aside and wait about 20 minutes for the primer to dry.

2. Then, using the same kitchen sponge, apply a second layer of ivory paint. Now the coating looks more saturated.

3. Mandatory stage Before applying the image, coat the product with acrylic varnish. The fact is that the drawing will be applied slightly wet, and water will ruin the coating acrylic paint– wrinkles it and forms holes. Therefore, we take a wide brush, dip it in acrylic varnish and cover the lid of the box with a generous layer. We will be making Transril only on the lid, so the main part of the product can remain unvarnished for now. We set the lid of the box aside - the varnish will dry for 15-20 minutes.

4. While the varnish is drying, let's take on the transcryl. Cut out your favorite image of a piece of jewelry from a magazine. You don’t have to cut along the contour, so we leave it empty seats between the “rays” of the decoration.

5. Now we spread a transparent file in front of us, put a design with decoration on it and take a second (clean) piece of a kitchen sponge. Apply a little transcryl product to it and, using patting movements (they will ensure an even layer), cover the entire image.

6. This coating takes at least 20 minutes to dry. It is very important that it dries completely, because next we will apply another layer of transcryl to the drawing. Then, when the second layer has dried, apply a third one. Well, when the third layer has dried, we can carefully pick up the edge of the image and remove it from the file. Before us is a drawing of a jewel, covered with a film of transcryl. Thanks to chemical composition, this product turns into a film that absorbs any pattern.

7. Now pour water room temperature on any plate or bowl. Place the drawing in transcryl film into the water, face down. The paper part of the drawing should be well soaked, so wait at least 15 minutes (the time depends on the thickness of the paper from which we cut the drawing). After this time, we can carefully begin to roll up “sausages” of paper from the back of the image with our fingers. The easiest way to do this is to start from the center of the drawing.

8. Having cleared the transcril film from the paper covering, remove it from the water and rinse it under the tap (remove small pieces paper). Now we take scissors and correct the drawing - cut out all its corners.

9. To stick the film with the pattern to the surface of the box, we do not need any glue. We simply cover the lid of the product with a layer of transcryl.

10. Then we place our image with the jewel in the center of the lid of the box. Use your fingers to smooth out the film so that there are no wrinkles.

11. Well, on top we cover the lid of the box with another layer of transcryl - this will fix the design and serve as a kind of varnish. If the entire surface of the lid is already covered with transcryl, leave it for a while to dry.

12. To prevent the surface of the lid from looking empty, apply a little paste with a bronze effect. To do this, squeeze the paste out of the tube onto forefinger and lightly rub the pigment into the space around the design with decoration.

13. Use the same bronze paste to decorate the main part of the box: apply light strokes of pigment to it. The final step is application. acrylic varnish on both parts of the box, with which we will secure the decor. It is best to apply not one layer of varnish, but two or three - then the box will shine more and look more festive.

Materials and tools:

Wooden box
Acrylic primer for decoupage (ivory color)
Kitchen sponge
Acrylic lacquer
Varnish brush
Image transfer tool (transcryl)
Scissors
Magazine clipping
Transparent file or regular cellophane
Transcryl brush
Decorative paste with bronze effect

This article will describe in detail how you can make a wooden box yourself, having a simple set. hand tools, great desire and skills to work with carpentry tools. To make a box, you can take almost any tree - ash, oak, beech or even pine will do. The main thing is that the tree does not have knots and is dried very well.

At the very beginning, you need to make a stencil for the lid and bottom of the box. You can choose absolutely any shape to suit your taste.

After the stencils are ready, you need to make two blanks from planks about 1.5 cm thick and, placing a stencil on top of them, outline the outline with a pencil.

For turning workpieces, you can use it, which needs to be fixed on the tabletop so that only working part the cutter protruded above the table surface.

Turning must be done very slowly and carefully so as not to spoil the workpiece.

Once the rough turning is completed, sanding can begin. Good for sanding wooden will do a disk that needs to be wrapped in sandpaper. With its help you can make a perfectly smooth edge that will perpendicular to the surface our workpiece.

The edges need to be turned with a cutter that has a curly shape. You can choose any cutter you like.

Ah, here is the result.

Now you can begin manufacturing and assembling the body of the box. To do this, you will need three boards of the same height, approximately 1 cm thick. Using a miter saw, you need to cut them at an angle of 45 degrees, as this angle will look better.

Then the resulting planks need to be glued together, for which any wood glue is suitable. One option could be “Moment” glue, which sets very quickly, and you won’t need to hold the board for a long time.

After this, you can begin making the front part of the box. To do this, you need to turn two boards with a thickness of about 1.5 cm. Using a special cutter, you can give the edges of the boards any shape.

The boards should turn out absolutely identical.

After this, one board needs to be glued to the top of the box, and the second will be used for the bottom drawer. The back and side walls of the box need to be machined to the same thickness - approximately 0.5 cm, and the bottom and front wall - 0.4 cm.

Then you need to glue the box, not forgetting to control the right angles, and after that you need to glue the front board to the front wall of the box.

When the box is ready, you can make partitions in it using 0.4 cm thick boards.

You need to glue the bottom into the top drawer and make partitions from boards 0.4 cm thick.

Then it is inserted into the box bottom drawer and how he walks in the box is checked.

If the box moves tightly, then you need to sharpen it with sandpaper.

We also make partitions in the upper compartment. Sockets for hinges are hollowed out in the lid and back wall of the box, then the hinges are screwed in and the lid is attached to the box.

We attach the lid.

Now the box is ready. All that remains is to paint and varnish it, and hang the handles.

The inside of the box can be trimmed with velvet glued to cardboard or velvet paper.

The box is one of the most popular products among those who work with wood. If desired, you can easily make such a box yourself.

To make a wooden box with your own hands, you can use planks made from alder, linden or pine, as they are easier to cut and process. Also, you need to immediately decide on the thickness of the walls of the box. In this example, we will consider a box with a wall thickness of 1 cm and dimensions of 10x10x8 cm.

You will need two planks - one measuring 40x8 cm, and the second 10x20 cm. From the first plank you need to cut 4 walls measuring 10x8 cm, and from the second you will get a bottom and a lid measuring 10x10 cm.

To join the sidewalls, it is necessary to mark the thickness for trimming on the inside. Then, using a joint knife, you need to make a bevel at an angle of 45 degrees and then use sandpaper to adjust the joint. It is best to assemble parts at special device, which should have 90-degree angles and be quite rigid. After completing the fitting of all the sidewalls, you need to glue all the parts with PVA glue. Then you need to glue the top and bottom.

We leave the resulting cube to dry for a day and, after complete drying, polish it with sandpaper. After this, you need to draw a line 2 cm from the top of the cube and very carefully cut each side along the line with a hacksaw.

The resulting parts need to be sanded and then a small chamfer for the hinges should be removed on the back side of the box so that they are recessed. You can purchase ready-made hinges or make them yourself, for example, from a coffee can. The thin wire can be used as an axle for homemade loops. You need to lay it in the middle, and then bend the blank for the loop around it, squeezing it with pliers. In order to prevent the lid of the box from moving, it is necessary to drill small holes in the lid and the front wall and insert the dowel into the hole located in the wall.

Now the box is ready and all that remains is to decorate it. The box can be painted or simply varnished; it can be carved, burned or decoupaged. How the box will look depends only on your imagination, as well as on your skills and capabilities.



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