To measure, check right angles and mark perpendicular lines on boards and bars, blanks and models, metal or wooden ones with and without sides (flat) are used. The bead square (Fig. 8, a) consists of a block 1 and a thin ruler (feather) 2 inserted into it. When using this square, the block is applied to the plane of the workpiece chosen as the base (Fig. 8, b). In Fig. 8, d shows the method of marking a board with a given length l using a marking scriber.
The correctness of the square is periodically checked on a marking plate against a control metal square or by means of a board with a ground edge, to which the square is applied with a block, and along the outer or inner edge of the ruler of the square (depending on which angle is being checked, external or internal) is drawn with a sharp hard pencil solid line. A beadless bench square (Fig. 8, c) is more often used when drawing on a panel, as well as when drawing perpendicular lines on model planes.
Rice. 8. Squares
a - on-board, b - method of using it, c - flat-board metalwork, d - method of marking the board; 1 - block, 2 - ruler (feather), 3 - base plane of the face of the bar, 4 - base plane of the edge, 5 - simple scriber, 6 - double-ended scriber, 7 - scriber knife, 8 - flat square, 9 - shield, 10 - ruler
Rice. 9. Metal fry:
a - general view, b - installation of a straight line using a protractor, c - checking the product with a small scale; 1 - block, 2 - ruler (feather), 3 - hinge screw, 4 - screw holding the ruler in the block
Malka used for marking and checking corners. It consists of a block into which a ruler (pen) is inserted, connected to the block with a hinge screw (Fig. 9, a). When using a small block, the block is applied to the base plane. The angle between the block and the ruler, determined from the protractor (Fig. 9, b), is fixed with a screw in the end part of the block. A small piece set at a certain angle can be used both in the manufacture of any workpiece for the model (Fig. 9, c) and when marking, like a square. Malki are made of metal and wood. For wooden blocks, instead of a hinge screw, a wing is installed, which directly clamps the ruler in the block.
Erunok also serves for marking and checking angles of 45° and 135° and when marking miter joints. It consists, like a bead square, of a block and a ruler inserted into it at an angle of 45°. It can be successfully replaced with a small tool or a universal square.
For more precise work, use a universal square with a protractor (Fig. 10), consisting of a block 1 of a square, a block 2 of a protractor with a ring protractor 3, a block 4 of a center finder square inserted into the slots of blocks 1-3, a measuring ruler 5 with an ordinary scale and clamping nuts 6. If a universal square is used as a square, then the protractor and center finder pads are removed, and if it is used as a center finder square, then the square and protractor pads are removed.
Rice. 10. Universal square:
1 - square block, 2 - protractor block, 3 - rotating ring protractor, 4 - center finder block, 5 - measuring ruler, 6 - clamping nut
The center finder square is used for drawing axial lines both on solid planes of models and blanks of round sections, and on the planes of rings, drums, etc. The center finder square (Fig. 11) consists of a block 1, the legs of which are located at an angle of 90° , and a metal ruler mounted on the paws and dividing the angle in half. Squares - center finders are either metal, used when marking products with a diameter of up to 500 mm (Fig. 11, a), or wooden with a metal ruler for products with a diameter of more than 500 mm (Fig. 11.6). The intersection of lines AA and CC determines the center O.
During runtime construction work Malka is needed very rarely, but it really helps out at the right moments.
Using low speed increases, the quality of work performed improves. Let's assume that we are laying laminate or parquet board diagonally. We draw a line on the floor and select the angle (diagonal) we need. We apply the malt to the line, lay it out, pressing it against the wall.
We transfer the corner to the laminate and cut it off. Having collected small area floor, apply the grinder directly to the finished part of the floor, measure the angle.
Malka protractor. The Builder's Essential Protractor
Trimming the first row tiles Above the bathtub or above the floor, a small lamp may also be needed. It often happens that a bathtub installed on a level has its drawbacks. You have to adjust the bottom of the tile by cutting it off. But after adjustment, the gap between the bathtub and the tile increases. To avoid this, we need to cut the bottom of the tile correctly the first time. The powder is applied to the side of the glued tiles and the bathtub. We transfer the line to the next tile and cut it off.
Malka goniometer. Malka - a tool for transferring corners and arranging door slopes
How to make it at home, with your own hands.
Malka (device) - carpentry and locksmith tool for marking and measuring angles, drawing parallel lines. Consists of two parts, fastened together with a clamping screw. The thicker part (block - base) is pressed against the workpiece, markings are made along the thin part (ruler). Sometimes a scale for measuring angles is applied between the two parts of the fish. Large fish can be used for construction work.
In this video I will tell you how to make a homemade small scale, what you can use to make this protractor, I will tell you about my idea of how to quickly make a universal protractor with your own hands at home, spending only a few cents. I will show you a goniometer that I made with my own hands using improvised materials at home, and I will tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of this little thing.
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Malka as an indispensable aid in the construction of slopes
The need to measure the angle when conducting repair work occurs almost constantly. For these purposes, there is a very convenient measuring device - malka, which is what we want to tell you about today.
Malka is a goniometer that can do a lot
Let's immediately look at the tasks for which this measuring device is intended. As a rule, the main purpose of such a device is to measure the degrees of an existing angle and subsequently transfer it to a workpiece or a precision measuring device. It is especially convenient and useful when installing window sills: having measured the exact angle of the slope, you can easily transfer the markings to the workpiece and quite accurately cut the corners, and carry out further installation.
Also used to calculate the "dawn angle" when setting window slopes. Initially, the device was used for working with wood, but later migrated to other areas of construction work. Visually this tool very similar to a regular right-angle machinist's square. But by its specificity, the malka is a protractor, and in order to be able to measure angles, the instrument has a moving part, which directly determines the given angle, both acute and unfolded.
- The block is the basis of the entire tool. On a regular square, this is its lower part; on both tools, the block performs the same role. Only on the small block the block has a slot into which the other part of the tool is hidden.
- The pen is the moving part of the instrument. The groove in the block allows the tool to be folded, so it takes up very little space and is convenient for the master to use.
- The fastening element is usually made in the form of a wing nut. Allows you to fix the moving part and make precise dimensions.
It is worth noting that this measuring device can be made in either a wooden or metal version. A wooden clapper is usually used where there is a fear of damaging the surface; the wood does not leave scratches during measurements.
Malka is a tool that will help you measure the desired angle
If this is your first time encountering a new device, you cannot avoid the question: what is it and how to use it? As already said, this device helps to measure angles, and let's take the forty-five degree angle as an example. We take such numbers for a reason, but mean cutting wood at the most popular angle. You can also choose any other value that interests you. Technically, a malka is a tool that can measure an angle from zero to one hundred and eighty degrees. So, let's start taking measurements.
- To begin with, we can find the angle we need already in the finished version and take measurements. You can also use a special device to set the angle to the degree you need.
- Next, fix the result obtained with a fastening bolt, preferably as firmly as possible.
- Afterwards, we apply the resulting angle to the part and draw a line with a pencil.
- Cut with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw angle according to the markings.
This example assumes markup wooden board or markup door casing. This method will be much faster than marking with a regular square.
How to make malka at home?
Of course, today everything necessary tool, in our case a small piece, can be bought at a hardware store. But sometimes situations arise when the device is needed now, and there is no time for it, or it is simply not available for sale the right tool. Let's try to figure out how to make malka with your own hands from available materials. And here is what materials we need for these purposes:
- Wooden beam measuring 20 by 30 mm. We will make a block from it.
- Plywood with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, it will be the moving part of the tool, the pen.
- Fastening element in the form of a nut and bolt.
- Electric drill and drill bit that matches the diameter of the fastener.
Having prepared all the components of the future instrument, you can begin assembling it. First of all, let's start making the pads. We measure from wooden block 10 centimeters, more is possible, but you should not exceed the length of 15 centimeters. Cut with a hacksaw right size future pad. The next step in making the tool will be making a slot for the pen. To do this, make a cut on one side of the end base of the block, and for now put the block aside.
Now let's move on to making a feather, which can be cut from plywood or other suitable material. Let us mark on the plywood the future dimensions of the element, the width of the feather is 20-30 mm, the length can reach 300-400 mm. Advice! All dimensions given in this example can be changed at your own discretion. In the process of making a small tool, you can increase the length of the block and feather, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to work with the tool you have made. The feather is ready, and now it can be more accurately adjusted in the block.
Check the cut at the end of the block again; the feather should form a sharp corner, although, of course, this is not necessary in all cases. When everything is ready, you need to install the fasteners in place; to do this, align the parts at an angle of 90 degrees and drill a hole through with a drill. Then insert the bolt and clamp the parts together with a nut. Theoretically, our tool is ready, all that remains is to modify the pen a little. Move it in the block, and further process the protruding corners. The excess should be removed and the cut areas should be treated with sandpaper.
How to use a small tool using the example of constructing slopes
Let's now test the little thing you made in working conditions, and it will be tested on the installation of window slopes. Our tool will help you correct plastering based on existing standards. As you know, window slopes have a certain angle; builders call it the “dawn angle.” But according to the rules, all angles must be the same and symmetrical; if these rules are not followed, then different slopes will be visible to the naked eye. Here are instructions on how to use a grinder to get uniform angles.
How to use malka - step by step diagram
Step 1: Preparing the walls and window opening
All walls of the room in which you plan to make slopes must be completely plastered. As a rule, on window openings the plaster is finished. The slopes themselves must be prepared, cleaned of dust and treated with soil. Also, if the window was installed using polyurethane foam, protruding excess must first be removed with a knife.
Step 2: Select the “dawn angle”
Now we need, first of all, to decide on the angle at which the plastering will be carried out on the slopes.
To do this, we install the block along the edge of the window frame and, by moving the pen, determine the angle along the edge of the window opening from the wall side. We record the result obtained on the small scale and check the compliance along the perimeter of the window opening. If, when checking, the selected angle does not coincide with the selected value, it is necessary to cut the plaster from the side of the wall or change the angle on the grinder.
Step 3: Leveling the slope angle
Usually on window opening the plaster ends up in a chaotic manner, smooth corners are removed while working with the slopes. In order to do perfect angles slopes, you just need to install the rail on the wall along the edge of the slopes around the perimeter of the window. To do this, we use a small tool to determine where the edge of the slats will be located, and fasten it with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails to the wall. Don’t forget to check the rail vertically with a building level; it must be strictly level.
Malka for slopes
Step 4: Apply the solution, set the angle
When the slats are installed on the corners of the slopes, we begin to apply plaster mixture. To do this, apply the solution to the slope with a trowel at an angle, preferably with a slight excess. After sanding, remove excess plaster mixture and set the slope to the direction of the angle. In this case, install the block on the window frame, exactly as we did during measurements, and slide the block along the frame from bottom to top. At the same time, the pen will remove excess and level the working surface. If after the work done there are holes left on the slope, add mortar and again remove the excess with chalk.
Step 5: Finishing
Typically, when constructing slopes, the layer of plaster can reach 5 mm or more. In this case, do not rush to immediately level the slope to zero; due to its heaviness, the solution may simply fall off or “float”. In this case, it is better for him to stand for 24 hours. The next day, when the solution has hardened, you need to use a plaster float to fill in all the imperfections in the form of depressions with the mixture and grind the surface to zero. Thanks to this method, your slopes will be quite smooth and aesthetically pleasing, plus everything, this method does not provide additional installation lighthouses. By applying this approach in practice, you will be able to make slopes throughout the house with the same “dawn angle”.
Plasma layouts of theoretical drawings of a vessel under construction are made in order to use them to mark the contour curved parts of the hull set: frames, stringers, beams, plating sheets, etc. The so-called plaza equipment is manufactured at the plaza.
The plaza equipment includes: plaza slats with the dimensions of the distances from the DP grooves, stringers, dovetails, etc. taken on them (recently such slats have been used to a limited extent), small boards, contour and bending templates (for bending and marking body parts with all the original sizes), plastic frames (for making sheets of complex bending using them), mock-ups (for testing the installation of equipment or the form of mating of various parts) and models (for processing the shapes of cast body parts).
Reiki made from well-dried pine bars with sections: 20X20 mm - for longitudinal braces and 5x30 mm - for transverse braces. The latter overlap each other along curves (3-4 slats). Dimensions taken directly from the plaza or development are applied to one of the 4 sides of the slats; on the next side other measurements are taken, etc. To avoid errors when marking on the lath, adjacent dimensions are given with overlap, i.e. if a lath is given between 10 and 20 frames, then the next lath is given not from 21 frames, but from 18 to 28th frame.
Each rack has its own number and name. If the lath is used to mark the sheet along the hull, then the bow and stern parts are indicated on it, but if the lath is used to mark the sheet along the side, then “bottom” and “top” are indicated on it (Fig. 44). The lath also indicates the serial numbers of frames, bulkheads or other starting points, which are the basis for marking. But marking according to drawings and plaza slats is carried out only during individual and small-scale construction (2-3 vessels per year) and during ship repair. In Fig. Figure 45 shows the transfer of the curve contour using a construction line from the plaza. In the middle of the contour of the part on the plaza limited by curve line 1, from which the rail is removed, draw an arbitrary straight line - a construction line and divide it into 10-12 parts. Then the distances from the line in both directions to the outline line (to points a, 6, c, d, e, f, k, m, n) are marked on staff No. 1, and the line on the staff is marked with the letter c. Line division points 1, 2, 3,4, 5, etc. are applied to rail No. 2, laid parallel to the line, etc. Using these two slats, you can transfer any outline of the part from the plaza to the marked sheet.
Rice. 44. Examples of markings on slats for welded structures:
1 - mark of the diametrical plane or theoretical frame, 2 - risk of cut, 3 - mark of the welding point of the sheet or square (the distance between the marks corresponds to the thickness of the metal), 4 - control mark, 5 - gouging line, 6 - designation of the length of the seam when welding with an intermittent seam , 7 - designation of the practical frame number, 8 - designation of a joint or groove 
Rice. 45. Transferring the contour of a curve using a construction line
Malkoy called an angle between body parts that is not equal to a straight line. An angle greater than 90° (obtuse) is called an adjustable angle; an angle less than 90° (acute) is a pivot angle. Under the hull, the outer plating and deck flooring are connected to the frames, especially at the ends of the ship's hull.
Small size is always determined by the plastic body. To do this, the “progress” is removed from the “Hull” projection, i.e., the distance between adjacent practical frames in a straight line and a longitudinal tension is built in this frame. The angle between the direction of the frame and the direction of the longitudinal tension is the required smallness. The malka can be identified using a device - a plaz malka (Fig. 46). A practical spacing (Shn) is laid on the vertical slats of the small plant, the horizontal slats are installed in the direction of progress, and the end of the hypotenuse slats are installed at a progress distance n from the vertical slats. The angle between the hypotenuse rod and the horizontal rod will be the desired smallness. Then the removed strips are applied to cast boards and transferred to the workshop. The transfer of milk from the milk board to the structure is carried out using a square with movable shelves. For any connections of body parts, they strive to ensure that the small piece is adjustable.
Rice. 46. Removing small parts:
a - “Body” projection, b - construction of the fry, c - fry; 1 - vertical rail, 2 - hypotenuse rail, 3 - horizontal rail, 4 - small board
Templates, along which curved parts are stretched, must be made in full size, therefore, when making a large-scale plastic body, it is necessary to increase the “Body” projection to natural size.
Template - a flat sample from which parts are made or the correct shape is checked finished product. When building a ship, templates are used for marking hull parts, checking the shape of bent sheet metal and profile parts, as well as for contouring flat sections and performing many inspection work.
Templates are made from boards 10-15 mm thick and plywood 3-5 mm thick. Large-sized contour and bending templates are made as typesetting templates from boards, and small ones for parts are made from plywood (Fig. 47). In the serial construction of ships, templates are often made from thin steel sheets or from aluminum alloys. The accuracy of making the templates must be such that on its working edges there are no deviations from the plaza lines by more than 0.5 mm (half the thickness of the line on a full-scale plaza).
Rice. 47. Templates for various purposes:
A - from boards for bending the frame, b - from plywood strips for contouring the sheet external cladding after bending, c - plywood for marking brackets, d - made of boards to check the transverse loss of the outer skin sheet during bending, e - typesetting from boards, f - whole of plywood (black rectangles are places for marking)
The curved line is transferred from the full-scale plaza to the board for the future template in the following ways:
The first method is to lay nails on the floor of the plaza (or on the plaza board) along the curved line to be removed with the rods in the direction of the radius of curvature of the line, and with the heads along the curved line. Place a board on top of the nails and press it down so that the heads of the nails cut into the board or leave imprints on it. Using these marks on the board, using a flexible strip, the required line is drawn, along which the board is cut.
Malka is a necessary and useful thing.
This is how a template is obtained. In order not to spoil the plaza, the nail heads are cut off on one side;
the second method is the method of removing curves using plasma pins. The studs are metal plates with ends bent at right angles and sharpened (Fig. 48). The studs are placed along the line with their sharp ends up, the template blank board is carefully placed on them and pressed against the studs. The sharp ends of the pins cut into the workpiece, marking the line to be copied. The punctures are connected with a smooth line, then the board is cut to band saw and processed with carpentry tools, controlling the accuracy of the working edge of the template along the plaza line;
Rice. 48. Removing the template outline using plasma pins:
1 - frame line on the “Hull” projection, 2 - plastic studs, 3 - template blank
The third method is to place a template board on the floor of the plaza next to the curve being removed and use a compass to mark arcs of the same radius on this board. Then, using a flexible strip, the required curve is drawn along arcs (like an envelope). This method gives greater accuracy when transferring curves from the plaza.
For large-sized templates, elements (sides) are first made using the above methods, installed and checked along the plaza lines, then nailed together and braced with braces to ensure rigidity.
Marks of joints and grooves of sheets, butting of stringers, dovetails and other control lines are applied to the finished templates and symbols. Be sure to mark a control line on the template (for example, the ship’s DP or zero keel line); The correctness of the pattern is checked by pulling the thread (cord), which must coincide with the control one.
Plastic frames made for the manufacture of sheets or structures using them complex shape(Fig. 49); performed when it is impossible to create a sufficiently accurate geometric development of the sheet, i.e., to check the failure of sheets of particularly complex curvature.
Rice. 49. Frame made:
a - projection of the lines of the part on the plastic “Body”, b - section template for the frame; c - assembled frame, d - cutting template for marking the part, made from the frame
The frames are made from separate transverse wooden templates (10-12 mm thick) in the form of frames installed in the planes of the frames, connected to each other by longitudinal flexible slats, like longitudinal connections. When installing the frame on the plaza, the distances between the templates should be equal to the normal spacing. When installing frame templates on the plaza, it is necessary to maintain the verticality of these templates (along the square) and strive to ensure that the control line drawn on the plaza coincides with the control line on the templates. Transverse templates are made on one side with an overlap of the DP and along the side of at least 500 mm. Such frames can be very bulky, therefore (to save lumber and ease of work) truncated frames are made, in which the base is not perpendicular to the plane of the frames and they are assembled piecemeal. This work is done with precise construction.
Layouts separate compartments or their parts are manufactured to clarify the location of machines, mechanisms, pipelines, routes on the ship electrical cables and instruments, as well as for practicing the mating of the contours of the most complex parts of the hull (fillets, brackets, anchor fairleads). Based on the mock-ups (after testing), working drawings and models for castings are drawn up.
Very often they make a mock-up of the bow part of the tip with anchor fairleads. On the model, they drag a model of the anchor and then work out the shape of the anchor fairlead so that the anchor on the ship fits into the fairlead and the anchor arms fit against the hull in a stowed manner.
On the model, the output of the propeller shaft at the rear of the hull is checked and then manufactured wooden model hull deadwood with mortars and legs of propeller shaft brackets.
All of the equipment listed above refers to the full-scale dimensions of the hull, but, as stated above, scale markings are also used.
Development of sketches. Most of the sketches developed on the plaza can be divided into two main groups: marking sketches (that is, for marking body parts) and sketches for assembling and contouring sections. Most of the sketches are markings. Sketches are developed on the basis of working drawings, plaza layout of the hull, development of cladding sheets, templates, frames and layouts. Details in the sketches are drawn without scale, but in compliance with the approximate proportionality of the sizes (Fig. 50).
Rice. 50. Sketches: a - stringer, b - sections
Dimensions on the sketches are set from two mutually perpendicular lines, taken as basic. In addition to the contour of the part and its dimensions, the sketches include cutout lines, control lines, lines for joining adjacent parts, and also mark the position of the part on the ship, the number of parts manufactured according to this sketch, the grade and thickness of the material, the order number, drawing and part. From the plaza, the sketches are transferred to the technology bureau, where the order of processing the parts is marked on them. Sketches, as a rule, are developed separately for each part and then stitched into sections.
The sketch is the main document when marking parts on metal. To mark the most complex parts, templates, slats or frames are attached to the sketches, which is specially specified in the sketches.
I often have to do different things installation work, where a tool such as a level or protractor is required. So I decided to make a homemade protractor. As it turned out, making it is not at all as difficult as it seemed at first. In the photo I am measuring the angle of the rafters in the attic.
The main component of a protractor is an ordinary school protractor. For the base of the protractor I used a pine board with an aspect ratio of 1x4. The correctness of the protractor readings will depend on the sides and angles of this board, so it must be made with maximum accuracy. Checking the corners and diagonal.
Place the board on a flat surface and press the protractor against it, then you need to fix the protractor using clamps. Make sure that the protractor does not move when you tighten the clamps.
What is Malka?
The accuracy of a homemade protractor will depend on this.
We drill holes for the screws and go through them with a countersink so that the heads of the screws do not protrude and the protractor pointer does not cling to them.
The protractor pointer can be made from a nail or thick wire. I have welding, so I just welded the nail to the nut and worked out the roughness on the knife. If there is no welding, then you can make a pointer from wire by bending one end with pliers.
In the center of the protractor circle, use a thin drill to drill a hole for a self-tapping screw and screw in the protractor indicator.
All that remains is to calibrate the inclinometer. To do this, you need to set the level strictly horizontally and place a protractor on it. If the pointer does not show 90 degrees, we achieve accuracy simply by carefully bending the nail in the desired direction. That's all - the homemade protractor is ready.
Often in carpentry there is a need to measure angles other than 90 degrees. This need also arises in construction, for which a simple tool called a malka was invented. In construction, this tool is used mainly when installing window sills, but not every craftsman knows how to use the tool. The goniometer will also be an indispensable tool for those exceptional cases when it is necessary to level the baseboards on the floor or ceiling.
Purpose of the goniometer and main tasks
The tool in question can be found in carpentry shops and workshops, where it is simply impossible to do without a protractor. When finishing premises, this tool is used by specialists who know that without it it is impossible to measure an indirect angle with maximum accuracy.
Digital small: an irreplaceable thing
A mill or protractor is a device that makes it possible to determine and fix oblique angles and transfer them to the required workpiece. In construction, the adjustable screed is used when installing window slopes, window sills, door slopes. Not every builder knows why a piece of wood is needed, which was confirmed by experiments conducted among vocational school students with a degree in carpentry.
Goniometers come in metal and wood, and even plastic. Wooden markers are more popular because they do not damage the surface of the products being measured. Metal baits are mainly manufactured with a length of 300 mm and with a built-in digital display. Plastic products are the cheapest, since they are less resistant to physical impact than the first two types.
Such tools are called digital, and they are used mainly by professionals, where maximum accuracy is important when carrying out work. The instruments under consideration, despite the material used to make them, consist of the following elements:
Digital protractors are extremely accurate, but they have a significant drawback - their high cost. Analogues of digital instruments are protractor minis. These are instruments that are designed with a conventional protractor.
How to make malka yourself
Malka is such a simple tool that you can make it from scrap materials with your own hands. To make malka at home from materials you will need the following parts:
- Bar of quality wood. The block can be divided into two parts or a groove of 2 mm in size can be made in it to the middle of the piece of wood. By the way, the size of the wood may be different, but it is better to make it up to 30 cm. The first part of the tool is a fixed block
- As a moving part, it is better to take an old ruler in which a groove should be made. The length of this groove should be equal to half the size of the ruler itself. Instead of a ruler, you can use a thin board up to 2-3 mm
- To connect these two parts you will need to use a bolt and a thumb. Pre-drilled hole in the block
It is important to pay attention! To connect the movable and stationary parts of the tool, it is necessary to use a bolt with a rotation limiter.
Everything is quite easy and simple, but appearance and the quality of the final tool depends more on the skill of the person. The resulting homemade fry will be an indispensable assistant in household use.
Description of how to use the malka correctly
Malka is used not only for door and window slopes, but it can also be used to properly plaster the surface. To achieve symmetry of the corners and the correct “dawn angle”, you will need to use a small tool, otherwise the slightest dimensions will be noticeable.
Malka with a protractor (inclinometer m)
It is important to pay attention! "Dawn angle" is the distance from the outside to inside bevel.
How to use this correctly measuring instrument, how small, we learn from the example of leveling slopes.
- First you need to prepare the walls. The walls are plastered and the slightest irregularities are eliminated. If there is foam, it should be cut flush. Before applying plaster, the walls should be treated with a primer
- The “dawn angle” is selected. To select it you will need to use a small tool. The tool block is applied to window frame, and the feather is applied to the wall. Measurements are taken at the top and bottom of the window, after which marks are made. From the side of the wall, the result obtained is recorded, after which all other angles are measured
- Leveling slopes. To align the corners, you need to install a rail on the wall or install beacons. The slats are fixed using screws or nails. Under given angle a layer of plaster is applied
- Applying plaster. The plaster should be applied in layers and at an angle. Using a rule or level, it is necessary to remove the excess amount of plaster layer
- Finishing. On final stage it will be necessary to perform finishing processing of the slopes. The layer of plaster should not be more than 5 mm, otherwise it will “float”. It is better to do everything in stages, allowing each layer of solution to dry throughout the day. If the layer is more than 5 mm, then the work will have to be redone. Finishing involves sanding
Instructions for using the goniometer grinder
Often, when a simple tool falls into the hands of a specialist, the question arises of how to use it correctly. One of these tools is a grinder, which is better known as a protractor or surface planer. The material describes the process of measuring slopes using the instrument in question. But what else can you use such a simple and uncomplicated tool for, which you can make easily and quickly with your own hands.
What a malka is and why a protractor is needed is explained in detail in the material. It remains to understand the potential of the tool and find out what actions this device is capable of. Without exaggeration, the possibilities of the tool can be called limitless, since with the help of the device you can measure any angle and find out it exact values. This can be not only a window slope, but also an arch or greenhouse structure, the manufacture of which is carried out by a specialist.
If you don’t know how to use a protractor correctly, then it’s time to look into this issue in detail. To learn how to work with a small spoon, you need to follow an example. So, recently the issue of insulating the walls of a house with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene has become relevant. Why might you need a protractor when working with polystyrene foam? Everything is banally simple. If you are going to stick polystyrene foam on a house wall that has a triangular or uneven shape, then in this case you will need to use a small spoon. This is not necessary, but it will greatly simplify the work.
- To avoid having to measure the angle of inclination of the wall, you need to take a small piece of wood and apply it with one part to a straight angle, and the other to an indirect one.
- After this, you need to fix the moving part in the installed position by screwing the thumb in the central part of the tool
- Attach the protractor in a fixed form to the foam sheet and make a mark with a pencil or marker
- The radius of the corner is known, so all that remains is to use a rule or level to apply it to the resulting mark and draw it to the edge of the foam sheet
- Pick it up cutting tool for cutting foam plastic, which can be used not only as a construction knife, but also as a metal blade. Few people know, but you can also cut polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam using a nozzle on construction hair dryer. How to cut a sheet of foam plastic if its thickness is greater than the length of the blade of a construction knife. To do this, you can take a special attachment on a hair dryer and make a cut along the mark
- Now the foam plastic in which the corner is cut can be applied to the wall and make sure that the procedure is performed correctly and with maximum accuracy
This is an example of the use of a screed, but the construction sector is not limited to the use of a screed. The device is also used in furniture making, when an irregularly shaped tabletop is made to order.
Often such a tool must be used when conducting welding work, for example, when you need to make metal posts for an arch or greenhouse with the same deflection angle. Whenever there is a need to cut an angle of the corresponding degree, you will need to pick up a protractor.
It is always convenient to work with this simple and uncomplicated device. Moreover, you don’t need to buy it, because it’s easy to make it yourself. If you set out to buy a small quantity, then you don’t need to go to construction stores. For this there are online stores where you can choose suitable tool good quality and at a low price. If you don’t yet know how to use a malka, then it’s time to learn, especially since it’s easy and simple.
As a result, it is important to emphasize such a factor as the effectiveness of the goniometer. Without such a tool, making an accurate measurement of an indirect angle would be very difficult. This would require a protractor, which would calculate the angle and then transfer it to the projected plane or workpiece. The video provides a detailed report on making malka with your own hands.
When performing construction or carpentry work, there is often a need to measure angles. For such purposes, a tool called a malka was invented. In the construction industry, this device allows you to speed up and facilitate the execution of work, ultimately achieving excellent results. We will learn in more detail how to use the small tool correctly, as well as the features of measuring angles.
The main purpose of the grinder is to measure the existing angle and then transfer it to the workpiece or a more accurate measuring device. They are extremely popular when installing window sills. Using this tool, the angle of repose is measured, after which it is transferred directly to the workpiece, which allows you to cut the required size as accurately as possible.
The adjustable bevel is also used to determine the “dawn angle” during the installation of window slopes. Initially, the device was used in carpentry workshops, but over time it gained wide popularity in construction. Not every builder knows why the tool in question is needed, and some are even hearing about it for the first time. This is not surprising, since this tool is used exclusively when it is necessary to measure degrees of an indirect angle. Malka allows you to measure angles from 0 to 180 degrees. This tool is an ordinary bench square, which has a right angle. To measure angles using the tool in question, the device has a moving part, which determines the required size.
Malki are also called goniometers, which today are various types, shapes and sizes. Protractors measuring 300 mm are popular, which allows you to measure various lengths corners Protractors are also made of wood, plastic or metal. You can measure angles using a protractor, but this is very inconvenient and time consuming. Recently, an electronic protractor has appeared that allows you to measure angle accuracy up to 1 mm.
Malka do-it-yourself protractor
Sometimes there is a need to use a protractor, but it is not at hand. It can and even needs to be purchased, but if a one-time job is being performed, then it is quite possible to make the tool in question yourself. For manufacturing you will need the following materials:
- A wooden block, which will serve as a block or a fixed ruler. If plywood or plastic is used, then use the thin part of the tool.
- A piece of plywood or plastic, but it is best to use old wood; their thickness should not exceed 3 mm. These materials will play the role of a moving element.
- To connect these two materials, you will need to drill holes in them, and then connect them together using a bolted connection with a “lamb.”
Marks of 20-40 mm are made on a sheet of plywood or plastic. If you use a ruler, then there are already markings on it. After this, you will need to combine the prepared materials, resulting in a homemade protractor. The video below shows how to make malka with your own hands in the simplest way.
How to use malka: step-by-step diagram
Not many craftsmen know that you can use malka in your work. In this context, there is not just a transfer of an indirect angle to the workpiece, but a direct calculation of the conjugation of the two elements being connected. Let's consider the features of using the tool in question using the example of window slopes.
Using a hammer, you can perform proper plastering based on standards. Step by step diagram Correct use of the tool looks like this:
- Selecting the “dawn angle” . We decide on the bevel under which the plastering will be carried out.
- We mark the “angle of dawn”. To do this, pick up a protractor and then start taking measurements. The fixed part of the tool is applied to the edge of the window frame, and the movable part determines the angle from the edge of the window opening from the wall side. To fix the obtained value, you need to screw the “lamb” on the tool. From the wall side, we record the result obtained directly at the top and bottom points.
- Slope leveling. To make the angles for the slopes ideal, you simply need to install a rail or strip to the wall around the perimeter of the window. The goniometer determines the location of the edge of the rail, after which we fix it with self-tapping screws. The rack must be checked using building level, since it must have a strictly vertical location.
- Applying mortar and sealing slopes. The solution is applied to the slopes with a reserve, and the excess is removed using the rule. In order for the slope to receive the direction of the angle, you need to set the rule with the edge towards the window frame, and then draw it along the slope from bottom to top. The rule will remove excess mortar and also level the surface.
- Finishing is the addition of a final layer of plaster mortar (if necessary) to complete the leveling of the slope. It is not advisable to seal slopes with large layers of plaster, since it will simply “float” without having time to dry. Finishing also involves the use of a protractor, with which the check is carried out.
Using the example of window slopes, the use of a protractor was considered. It doesn’t matter what kind of small tool you used to level the slope angles. The main thing is that the master uses a small tool to perform these actions, and also knows how to use it correctly.
