Fastening the steps of a wooden staircase. How to attach a stringer to the upper platform or ceiling

A staircase is a real construction set that can be assembled in several ways from different or identical elements using different ways fastenings and materials. And in most cases, the “constructor” can be assembled independently.

Stair elements

The main and mandatory components are supports, steps and railings. The shape of the elements is noticeably different.

Stringer is a sawtooth-shaped supporting inclined beam to which treads are attached. It can be one or several, the steps on it are installed from above.
The bowstring is an inclined straight beam, but the tread is fixed between two supports.
A step is a flat element of a staircase on which one rests while moving.
Railing - stair railing.

The methods of fastening elements to each other may be different, therefore, for example, load-bearing beams, despite their role as support, may be absent altogether.

Wall – treads can be installed in load-bearing wall. On the opposite side of the stairs, the steps are fastened together with bolts.
Modules – connecting element, fastening the treads together and acting as a support beam. For this design, the support on the wall is partial.
Frame - a metal structure consisting of a supporting beam minimum width– 12–18 cm, and stepped bases

Attaching steps to stringers and bowstrings

Load-bearing beams are an indispensable component of wooden stairs, therefore connection methods are described for wooden elements.

Fixing the tread on the beam depends on the method of its manufacture.

Zigzag protrusions are cut out in a board of the appropriate size according to calculations. Holes are made in the treads, then the stepped elements are installed on stringers and secured with screws. The screws are covered with wooden plugs on top. On the picture - traditional way installation on the stringer.
You can do it differently: attach rectangular supports to the support beam on spikes, and then mount treads on the supports.

Other methods are used to secure elements to the string.

On the inside of the board, grooves 2–3 cm deep are cut for steps and risers, if they are provided for in the project. The product is assembled and then completely installed in the opening.
1. The groove may have open edges. In this case, the stepped element is pushed to the required depth into the bowstrings already in place. In both cases described, a screed is recommended.
2. First, additional supports are mounted on the inside of the beam - wooden blocks, metal corner, and then treads are attached to the supports.

Installation of steps in the wall

The main condition is that the wall to which the installation is made must be load-bearing. Installation on partitions is unacceptable.

Sealing - grooves of the required depth are knocked out. Treads are inserted into the recesses with the end side and sealed with cement. This is the most reliable method, although it has one drawback: when using the stairs, vibration is transmitted to the wall, so the sound of footsteps is heard throughout the house.
Installation on brackets - holes are made for special anchors, steps are mounted to the latter through the brackets. The photo shows a version of the cantilever staircase.
Installation via wooden beam- is used for wooden structures. A beam is attached to the wall, which essentially acts as a bowstring, and then treads are placed on it.

On the opposite side, the edges of the elements are connected using bolts - threaded metal rods. This design looks very lightweight, but is also reliable.

Installing steps on a metal frame

Metal treads are used extremely rarely. The installation technology itself is simple - metal product laid on the base and welded, but requires experience in working with welding machine. If this method is implemented in a private house, it is advisable to trim the stairs with soundproofing material.
Wooden treads can be attached directly to a metal base. But since wood, unlike metal, shrinks, it is recommended to use a substrate during installation. A fragment of plywood 10–12 mm thick is bolted to the frame, and then fixed to the substrate with liquid nails wooden surface. In the video, the method of attaching the tread to the frame is demonstrated in more detail.

Modular stairs

A staircase on stringers is a common type of interior staircase design. Such a device is the easiest to manufacture because it requires less technological operations. The stringer is a load-bearing inclined support for the steps. It can be in the form of a beam with comb cuts on which treads are laid, or in a zigzag shape.

When installing steps on an element, the ends of the steps are visible from the side, unlike structures on bowstrings. This type is visually lighter; for the device there is no need to make a stair shaft or hem the bottom side of the flight. Staircases on stringers have an original appearance and decorate the interior. Steps made on stringers may not have risers, which also makes the appearance easier.

For stairwells of standard width, two elements are usually installed that support the step in the first third and second third of its width. For wide staircases - more than one and a half meters - a third central element is used. It is also possible to install steps using one stringer located in the center of the steps. In this case, an additional part is used - a platform under the step, to distribute the load.

Stringers are made of wood, metal, reinforced concrete. Wooden elements are made from boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and sufficient width so that when cutting cuts are made under the steps, the width of the remaining part of the board is at least 120 mm at the narrowest part. May vary depending on the device.

A little bit of theory

From the point of view of theoretical mechanics, a ladder is a static system with two supports. The inclined position results in both vertical forces and horizontal shear forces acting on the lower support. The beams of the stringers rest on the ceiling or landing, so the supports must withstand the loads transmitted from the elements. To create a stable structure, it is extremely important not only to securely fasten the stringer beams, but also to create a stable mechanical system.

The ladder should not hang on the fasteners: the structure will be stable only if it stands “on its own”, and the fasteners should simply keep it from shifting and tipping over. Otherwise, whatever reliable fastening, over time it will become loose, and cracks may appear on wooden elements that are constantly under stress.

For fastening, you can use metal fasteners or connect parts of the element and wooden elements of floors and platforms using locks with additional fixation with metal ties, studs or wooden dowels, dowels. The second method is more reliable, but requires a fairly large section of wooden structures and a stringer, because the cutouts to form the lock weaken the beams. Available combined method When the cutout is made small, metal fasteners are used for reinforcement.

Methods for securing the stringer at the bottom

The technology for securing the stringer on the upper and lower platforms may be different.

Frame stairs are increasingly gaining increased demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that in addition to strength and durability, they can be made in countless different shapes and designs. This article will be of interest to those who set out to make not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their home.

By choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you are making a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. With great dignity frame technology has its adaptive properties, first you can make the frame of the staircase with your own hands with the expectation that it will fit into the overall design idea premises, or you can build a rough version of the frame, and then cover it with suitable material.

The combination of metal and wood is one of the most successful design solutions regarding the interior. Thanks to successful combination beauty and strength, structures made of wood and/or metal are popular among builders and owners country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, based on their tastes and preferences, clearly agree on one thing, the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

A metal staircase with wooden trim will create an original atmosphere and interior in a classic or old style. Possibility of decoration with forged and wooden elements, this is a real work of art that will give any room a truly noble and respectable look.

An elegant metal staircase, decorated with wooden steps, looks fast and light, while remaining a reliable and durable structure that can withstand significant loads over many years of operation. Metal is the strength and wear resistance of the staircase, and steps made of wood are comfort and style. The metal staircase and wooden steps guarantee ease of descent and/or ascent for all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

We calculate the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made from light or durable types of metal, an important indicator of which is resistance to corrosion. The technology for constructing wooden stairs with a metal frame involves partial or complete covering of visible metal surfaces tree.

Having set a goal to design and build a staircase yourself, it is important first of all to perform an accurate calculation metal frame stairs, so that unpleasant moments do not arise in the future.

The main indicator from which all calculations of the staircase frame are based on the width of the human step.

On average, this figure is 57-64 centimeters. Based on the above indicator, the ratio of step and riser is determined.

S is the width of the step,
P is the riser height.

The formula will be as follows:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the ease of use of the stairs:

And also the formula for the safety condition:

All quantities cannot be taken into account separately from each other; it is important to perform the growth, taking into account all design parameters, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the initial data.

Do-it-yourself cladding of a metal staircase frame with wood

The most popular finishing method for minimum costs is the installation of wooden steps to the frame of a metal staircase. And the remaining visible parts of the structure are simply painted suitable color As a result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and natural.

If we talk about completely covering the metal frame of a staircase with wood, then the process includes finishing:

substaircase space,
steps,
risers,
imitation of a wooden bowstring.

After such “disguise”, the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from a wooden one.

Wood is used to design exclusive stairs valuable species wood:

The above tree species have high aesthetic as well as performance properties.

The hardness of oak wood is several times higher than the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness of metal alloys. The natural material unique and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the life of the frame itself.

DIY installation of a metal staircase frame

As for installation and operation, wooden stairs on a metal frame are practically unpretentious. There are several options for installing them. If the owner decides to independently install the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should take a closer look at structures made from ready-made and prefabricated modules.

They look like a designer, and are presented individual parts, which are easily assembled into flights of stairs, connecting to each other in accordance with the attached instructions. Such modules are produced at industrial equipment according to established GOST standards for wooden and metal staircase structures. It is important to remember that such stairs require frequent care and special maintenance to eliminate possible backlashes and tighten connections.

All staircase structures are subject to periodic inspection and testing to ensure their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Basic moments:

In each step of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, we retreat from the edge of the tread by no less than 2 cm.
If the steps are attached to the frame using ordinary self-tapping screws, then the holes in the metal frame are drilled into a “undertight” hole.
To compensate for stress when tightening parts, fasteners with washers are used.

Even the best-made metal frame can have slight differences in height between parts. To ensure that the wooden overlays adhere well to the surface, a backing is laid on it. For fixation, use conventional mounting adhesive with a filler effect. It fills voids and forms a durable layer that is resistant to crushing.

The use of polyurethane foam in this option is absolutely excluded; dried foam can wrinkle, which leads to corrosion, loosening and creaking of the steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

To summarize, it is worth saying that a wooden staircase with a metal frame with your own hands is perfect combination important points: durability metal structure and aesthetics wooden stairs. No other material has such warmth and attractiveness as wood. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises with its financial accessibility. You won't find cheaper or more reliable materials.

This article talks about how to attach steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction in various combinations of fastening materials and overall design, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, you need to decide which steps will have to be attached. In most cases, the material for making steps is wood and for self-assembly of stairs it is the main one, although companies specializing in staircase production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Technologically, fastening comes down to choosing a method for securing the step slab to a rigid or slightly movable metal frame. If the design uses powerful stringers (under flights of stairs) or bowstrings (on the sides of a flight of stairs), then the step is less susceptible to dynamic loads (except for the bending of the step itself under the weight of a person), and with more lightweight structures, for example, stairs on welded stringers made of profile pipe, dynamic loads are greater. It is because of the mobility stair elements, glue is not used in these connections, except when installed on a solid monolithic surface.

Steps can be fixed

furniture bolts;
self-tapping screws;
futorka;
Fisher fasteners.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

The simplest and reliable way installation of treads to the base. In this case, drill through the step with a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt body and the base (angle flange or stringer body). The wide head of a furniture bolt (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides minor defects when drilling, and its profiled part under the head prevents it from turning when tightened. During installation, do not tighten the nut more than permissible, because

the metal head of the bolt will simply push through the solid wood.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of the bolt head on the surface of the step, especially if the fastening is carried out according to an asymmetrical pattern, and the need to access the space underneath to tighten the nut, which is not always possible. P.s. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with a regular head and a wide washer can be used, but at the base (stringer or corner) a thread is cut or a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a countersunk is made in the surface of the step with a diameter sufficient to use the wrench head the right size. For this option, you can pre-select flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color.

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and speed of fastening; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The good thing about installing steps with self-tapping screws is that all fastening elements are located in the riser part and the outer decorative finishing it does not suffer.

It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fastening to prevent the groove from slipping off when tightening.

Nowadays, roofing self-tapping screws, which have a hexagonal head and a drill-shaped tip, are often used to fasten steps. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the diameter of the drill (thinner for wood).

How to attach wooden steps to a metal stringer?

If the installation is carried out through the wall of a profile pipe of a metal frame, then there is a natural desire to use roofing screws for metal and immediately stitch through the metal and wood of the steps, but it is worth understanding that the diameter of the drill for wood is much smaller than the diameter of the turns, which ensures a good engagement area for the screw in a solid board, as opposed to a metal screw.

Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are convenient to use if the bottom surface of the stairs is visible. At the same time, in metal structures, a secretion is immediately made under the cone-shaped cap. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively soft wood), but from larch, beech, ash or oak, then to screw in a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5-6 mm you will need to make preliminary holes in the steps with a diameter of 3-4 mm (according to the diameter of the main body self-tapping screw - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-tapping screw will not screw in completely.

Fastening the steps to the metal frame with a footer

Foot for fastening the step

Let us immediately clarify that a futorka is a metal bushing with internal and external threads. This method of fastening steps can be considered optimal in terms of concealment of mounting elements and ease of installation and dismantling of treads, but it can only be used for dense types of wood, is quite labor-intensive, requires stationary preparation and strict compliance with the drawings, because You can’t fix anything here on the spot. In addition, fastening the step with a foot to the metal frame can be done both from below (on the shelf of a corner or stringer) and from the side at the end (string). It is this method or its analogue that is used in modern staircase construction by large companies, for example, German company KENNGOT. They have designer staircases with treads made of wood, acrylic, stone and threaded bushings for on-site installation.

Technologically, in this case, a fitting with an external thread diameter of about 20-22 mm and an internal thread of 8-10 mm is taken (on the forums they write about using a regular stud with an M20 thread in which a hole is drilled and the thread is cut), in a step with a cutter (the cutter does not have a large cone-shaped part ) a hole of the required depth is made and a thread is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for a sufficient depth of thread grooves in the wood to securely connect the parts. Using glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac), the futorka is screwed into solid wood. Now the steps can simply be screwed to them (more than once) with a regular bolt or stud with a decorative cap nut.

Fastening steps to a metal frame using Fisher fasteners

Fastening the step to the corrugated pipe (Fisher)

Enough new way fasteners based on use polymer fastening Fisher, on one side of which there is a sleeve large diameter with a hole in the center and conical notches that work like a herringbone (it gets hammered into the hole easily, but resists coming out), and on the other - a sleeve that opens when screwed into the screw.

Before installation, cores from the kit are placed into the holes on the metal frame, the steps are placed in their places and the marks are pressed. The steps are being drilled. Then the Fisher fasteners are installed in their sockets, secured with self-tapping screws, and the step is placed on them. Unfortunately, personal experience There has been no use of such fasteners for stairs, so it is still difficult to say how this fastening behaves, but it is obvious that dismantling the steps in this case will most likely smooth out the polymer splines and will require their replacement. In addition, it is hard to believe that the plastic sleeve will stay in the wooden socket for the entire life of the ladder. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and bending loads, the steps will loosen these fastenings. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should you pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of fastening option should be made at the stage of staircase development.

When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the staircase will be open, whether there will be access from below the steps, whether the mounting elements will be painted and with what, whether the absence of any elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the surface of the steps is important.

When building a staircase with your own hands, you often weld a structure from channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, ties). This option is easier to sew from the bottom decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then screw them in from below with roofing screws.

For option modern stairs on stringers made of a profile pipe that follow the shape of a staircase, long M8-10 furniture bolts can be used, piercing through the step and stringer, with a decorative galvanized nut at the bottom. You can order steps with footers, but you must be 100% sure of the dimensions. Also, for the option with self-tapping screws, you can drill a profile pipe of the stringer from the top a little larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, and from the bottom with a diameter of 12-13, where you can then install furniture plugs. The self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed in from below using a magnetized screwdriver or a screwdriver with a flexible attachment. A screwdriver usually pulls screws through better.

In any case, you should try to design the staircase so that the step rests on the flange of the corner, channel or corrugated pipe and is attracted to them by fastening, and does not hang on point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in wood, and therefore many serious companies, after constructing a staircase, recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

Staircase on a metal frame. Soundproofing experience

22/06/2009 22:19:58

Staircase designs vary and, depending on the materials used, are most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. When designing a staircase, you must first of all consider such properties as price, aesthetics (beauty), load on the structure, practicality (wear resistance, noise generated when walking, etc.). In this article I will not consider design features staircase design, such as inclination angle, riser height and tread width, etc. There are a lot of books and materials on the Internet on this topic. Let’s assume that conditions allow us to install a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of the “convenience and safety formulas.” Which material to choose?

Traditionally, wood is used to construct stairs. Wood is a warm material, has a beautiful appearance, and is pleasant to walk on. A wooden staircase is quite light, which means it does not create excessive load on the supporting structures. However, wood also has disadvantages. First of all, it is creaking and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made to all standards from valuable wood, as a rule, does not dry out or creak, but it is very expensive. Inexpensive stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often insufficiently dried), which means that over time such a staircase will lose its initial properties. geometric parameters and starts to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft species and are susceptible to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical stress but two, three or more times more expensive than conifers.

Concrete stairs are often used in houses. Sometimes flights of stairs are purchased from factories, but more often they make a metal frame, arrange formwork and pour concrete right on site. Structurally, concrete stairs can be anything you want, if you correctly calculate the loads, reinforcement and grade of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. It is impossible to support massive concrete stairs simply on floor slabs. Concrete stairs must be supported load-bearing structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. Most often used as cladding ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, but also a natural stone and a tree.

Another type of stairs is metal. More precisely, purely metal stairs are rarely used in houses. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Stringers or bowstrings are made from channels (12-18), and the bases for the steps are made from a corner (most often 40), which is welded to the channels. The steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. Advantages metal stairs a lot of. Firstly, it is quite light in weight. Such stairs can be supported on floor slabs. Secondly, metal stairs are quite durable and can withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, they do not lose their properties over time. The disadvantages are rather inherent not in the metal frame itself, but in the cladding. The steps made from pine on a metal frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the steps are attached to the metal frame not directly, but through plywood. Plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm is attached to the metal frame using countersunk bolts, and wooden steps with a thickness of at least 40 mm are glued to the plywood using liquid nails. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - it acts as reinforcement that takes on the load, distributes the load, and also hides the load-bearing fasteners. The metal frame is also good because the steps can be replaced over time (for example, pine with African mahogany) without any difficulties. However, it is worth mentioning the most important disadvantage of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a staircase will be heard by everyone in the household, even if a cat is walking up the stairs.

The higher the weight wood cladding, the less the metal frame knocks. Thus, to soundproof a metal structure, it needs to be loaded with something. Steps, risers, balusters, pillars, railings. All this is understandable. Is there anything else that can be done? I asked myself the same question. Having experience in car soundproofing, I decided to apply my knowledge in the field of construction. When it comes to noise insulation of a metal structure, the technology of metal vibration insulation and dampening of vibrations created in the metal is usually used. After all, any sound is a process of vibration and friction. In order to vibration-proof the stairs, I decided to use the materials I had tested from the StandardPlast company. Before that, I worked with such materials as Vibroplast, Vizomat, Vizomat MP. But the company introduced new material under the Bimast brand. I decided to use the most expensive material, Bimast Bomb, 4 mm thick, which, according to the manufacturer, combats vibro-acoustic noise better than other materials. But I actually chose this material only for the simple reason that it is the heaviest in the StandardPlast line of materials. In addition, Bimast material does not require additional heating and cuts well.

Bimast Bomb consists of two layers - elastic bitumen mastic and heavy bitumen material. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Looking at the material, I got the impression that Bimast Bomb is Vibroplast and Vizomat MP glued together, which is probably not entirely true.

To begin with, I decided to cover the stringer - the channel from the inside. To do this, I thoroughly washed the channel from rust and degreased it with white spirit. The material cuts really well. To keep things in order, I warmed up the mastic a little with a regular household hairdryer and started gluing it. When I covered almost the entire channel, I began to compare (using the tapping method) the sound of the treated channel and the untreated one.

The result, of course, was, but minimal. Bimast Bomb did not significantly reduce the noise level from footsteps, although with light tapping a certain reduction in the vibration level was felt. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth channel was insignificant. A channel 3.5 meters long took only one sheet of Bimast Bomb weighing a couple of kilograms. This amount was not enough to effectively dampen the thick channel. In addition, the lion's share of the noise was created by the corners, and not by the stringer-channel itself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I had a roll of Uniflex material left over from waterproofing the foundation, I used it to soundproof metal window trims. The tides knocked during the rain as if empty cans, and when I covered the ebbs on the inside with heavy bitumen material Uniflex, and also planted the ebbs on polyurethane foam, I understood what silence in the house is. Even during a heavy downpour, I only saw water on the glass, but did not hear the sound of falling drops. The Uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but its weight was slightly greater.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for sound insulation. Any heavy bitumen materials are suitable for vibration insulation, because vibrations are dampened primarily by weight. Thus, Uniflex is in no way inferior to Bimast Bomb in terms of efficiency, but it is worth noting that waterproofing material no adhesive layer. It won't just stick to metal. It needs to be melted! It is advisable to prime the surface with a bitumen primer. I fused the material with regular gas burner Kovea.

All photographs show the staircase without cladding, with temporary steps.

From experience, I can say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces such vibration isolation lasts more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from below, it usually falls off within six months to a year. 😉

Bimast Bomb or Vizomat MP?

I did another experiment. The second channel of the flight of stairs was treated with the familiar Vizomat MP material, 2.7 mm thick. Without measurements, Vizomat MP is visually actually thinner than Bimast, lighter and more rigid. Cutting Vizomat MP with scissors is more difficult. Vizomat MP must be thoroughly heated with a hairdryer. Vizomat MP adheres to metal worse. And the result turned out to be worse. The sound from impacts on metal of different intensities is muffled on the channel that is treated with Bimast Bomb material. As a result, Bimast Bomb is still valid. best material in the product line from the company StandardPlast, although it is 25% more expensive at retail.

Thus I would like to summarize my research. The costs of soundproofing channels that act as stringers are not comparable to the result.

However, the work is not finished yet. It is necessary to find out whether it makes sense to paste over the corners that act as a frame for steps and risers. After all, they create the lion's share of the noise.

And a little more theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will indicate several parameters for competent calculation of the stairs.

Riser - step height
Tread - step width
The optimal slope of the stairs is 30-35 degrees
The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees
Double riser height + step width should be within 57-65 cm
The sum of the width and height in an optimal staircase should be 45-46 cm (staircase safety formula)
The optimal step width is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
Riser height 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
The difference between the width and height of the step should be about 12 cm (staircase comfort formula)
The height from the plane of the stairs to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
The number of steps in the staircase must be odd (whichever foot we enter the staircase with is the one we leave with)

Add a comment:

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2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzova
Andrey, can I ask a question? House blocks Yutong 375, I already wrote that I confirm all your comments about this material, in the article about the shortcomings of this material and what the sellers are silent about. Metal frame staircase, how did you attach it? I have floors wooden joists. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows me to make a hole in the wall and support 4 racks, a turning platform, on the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
It rings, it means it's playing. Additional boil some kind of scarf on the inside for rigidity. I have a similar design, well welded a little differently, but the idea is the same. If you remove the turning part of the staircase, Straight part Channel 12 wall 1 cm. Length 4.5 m. Step corner 5 wall thickness 5 mm. At the top, the ladder is welded to the I-beam. So despite the fact that there is only metal all around, nothing rattles. Achieve rigidity and there will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | SAU
I have a design of steps made from corners like Andrey’s, but there is no ringing or vibration when walking. The five is screwed on top of the corners with self-tapping screws from below, and the carpet is on top of the five.

Most likely there is no ringing or vibration due to the fact that additional supports made of a square profile are welded in the middle under the channels.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K
I agree with Paladin! This design really contributes to good acoustics) However, I think, the heavy channel contributes to it even more. I've been racking my brains for a long time about the stairs - I'll install them soon. But I will make stringers from thin metal profile, from the same material from which the frame is made, it will be much lighter. True, there are some nuances - I will also attach them rigidly - to the frame. but I’m thinking of using it at fastening points rubber gaskets. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make the steps and the landing platform transparent. As for bitumen and bituminous materials, so much of this goodness surrounds us in real life, that I tried to avoid using them inside the house. For vibration and hydraulic decoupling (1 to 2), I used (as far as I know, the only ones in Russia) materials from a plant in Nizhny (like) Novgorod (Abris). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. The materials are not cheap - the toad was not just strangling...) But, in my humble opinion, and as the British testify, “I’m not rich enough to buy cheap things” ( Russian in-t"Miser pays twice"). So I had to be patient :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B
Evgeniy, do you always take everything literally or sometimes do you try to understand it?
1. Formula of convenience and 12 cm - we are not talking about the staircase as a whole, but about the steps.
2. You can call whatever you want a riser. I personally don't mind. But take my word for it, not all stairs are made of wood. In simple words, the most common concrete staircase, like in entrances. Where did the thickness of the material go, huh? And where is her riser?
3. Optimal slope is a subjective concept. I have 4 stairs at home. In my life I have no difficulty with either 20 degrees or 45. But from my point of view (supported, by the way, by theory) 30-35 degrees is the most comfortable angle. If it seems to you that this is not so and your opinion is the only correct one, I see no point in discussing it.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Eugene
“The difference between the width and height of the stairs should be about 12 cm (formula for the convenience of stairs)” - how does this happen, I have a staircase with a height of 295 cm and what width do you think it should have??? It’s even scary to imagine!

The most convenient option is to attach the steps to the stringer at the top. This option for fastening steps, in turn, can also be divided into several fastening methods:

Fastening the step to the stringer, leaving the head of the hardware on the surface of the step, bolt-nut or bolt-thread connection in the stringer.
Attaching the step to the stringer with the hardware head partially recessed into the step. The connection is the same as in the first method.

If you choose the first method of attaching the steps to the staircase frame, then in this case it is necessary to purchase bolts with a decorative head and, preferably, a turnkey hexagon. When installing such bolts, the decorative cap will serve as an additional decoration for the staircase, and if the fastening of the steps becomes loose during operation of the staircase, then tightening or replacing the fastening material can be done without hindrance, because access to the bolt and nuts in this case is free and nothing interferes with repairs. works

When choosing the second method, when the head of the hardware is partially recessed into the step and the hole is closed from above with a wooden plug or putty. In this case, repairing the steps (replacing or tightening the fasteners) will be difficult, since we will have to drill out a wooden plug in order to get to the head of the hardware, and you will agree that this is not entirely convenient option for repairing steps or tightening fastenings.

In principle, these two methods of attaching steps to a stringer have almost equal chances of being used, and therefore we will consider both methods in this article. Now we need to decide on the hardware, that is, choose the most suitable bolts for the connection wooden products, in our case it is a wooden step. Next, we need to select hardware suitable for both methods.

As you can see in the photo, self-tapping screw No. 1 (on a yellow background) is suitable for fastening a step from the bottom of the stringer; accordingly, it is not suitable for the methods of fastening the step we have chosen, so let’s move on immediately to considering other hardware.

The same photo on the right shows a countersunk head bolt (No. 2). This bolt has a countersunk head with a mustache; when installing such a bolt into a hole made in a wooden step, the bolt will not be able to rotate while tightening the nut, since the mustache cuts into the wood when tightening and serves as a kind of stopper. The hole is closed from above with a wooden plug (to the left of the bolt).

The photo below shows furniture bolts with semicircular head. There is a carriage under the head of the No. 3 bolt and a carriage under the head of the No. 4 bolt. These bolts, just like bolt No. 2, due to their design feature, will not rotate in the wooden step while the nut is being tightened. The only thing is that the heads of bolts No. 3 and 4 will remain on top of the step.

All that remains is to select the bolts. Let's choose bolt No. 4 for the first method of fastening the step and bolt No. 2 for the second method of fastening the step.

Next, we will make markings for through holes in the stringers of the stairs. We need to make at least two holes in the support corner of the left and right stringers. Let's look at an example of calculating the location of holes:

First, let's determine the center of the hole. To do this, measure 20 mm from the edge of the stringer (half the width of the corner flange) and draw the X axis. Next, measure 40 mm from end A and draw the Y axis, measure 60 mm from end B and draw the Y1 axis, at the intersection of the axes we get the center of future holes .

The diameter of the holes depends on the diameter of the bolts with which we will fasten the steps. Let's take as an example the bolts we selected in photo 3. Bolt No. 2 (DIN 604) and bolt No. 4 (DIN 607) - bolt diameter 8 mm. This means that to make holes we will need a drill with a diameter greater than 8 mm, for example 8.5 mm. The use of a drill with a large diameter is not recommended in order to ensure the tightest possible installation of the bolt.

Now you need to make holes in the steps. We mark the locations of the holes in the steps so that they coincide with the holes in the stringers.

If you and I use bolt No. 2 with a countersunk head to fasten the steps, then in this case we need to drill two holes. The first hole is through with a diameter of 8...8.2 mm. Through this hole we will install a bolt with a partial recess of its head, so we need to make another hole with a diameter of 17 mm and a depth of at least 15 mm, as shown in Figure 7 (footnote on the right). Why is the hole depth exactly 15 mm?

As can be seen from Figure 7, the head of bolt No. 2 has a diameter of 16.55 mm and a height of 5 mm. This means that when installing the bolt, the head will take up at least 3...4 mm in height, and we need the remaining height of the hole to install a wooden plug with a height of 10...12 mm. Therefore, you and I will make a second hole with a depth of at least 15 mm.

When using bolt No. 4, we only need to drill one through hole with a diameter of 8...8.2 mm. In order for the mustache to cut into the step, you can make a few not too many strong blows rubber mallet on the head of the bolt. With each blow, the bolt will lower, and the mustache will cut into the step, and then when the nut is tightened, the bolt will not turn.

Installing steps and risers on stairs

So, the steps are ready to be installed on the stairs. After we figure it out, we can begin installing steps and risers on the stairs.

Let's start with the lower flight of stairs, first install the lower frieze step (A), attach it to the stringer using four bolts, for example, with a countersunk head, and install wooden plugs. Then we install the riser (B) and the second step (C), and also attach the step to the stringer. In the same order of riser - step, we continue installing steps on the entire staircase.

The procedure for installing hardware is shown in the figure in the footnote. First we install the bolt, then we put a washer and screw on the bolt and after that we screw and tighten the nut.

Note: and we will install the lower riser after installing the staircase railing.

House owners quite often face the need to install an internal staircase. Two-story houses, as well as apartments have long ceased to be a rarity, and in this case one cannot do without a staircase. Wooden stairs are especially popular and can become a real decoration of the interior - especially if you know how to secure the steps on a wooden staircase. Unreliable fastening in best case scenario will lead to constant creaking of the steps, and in the worst case, the ladder may break.

Let's first consider two typical way attaching steps to stairs:

Fastening on bowstrings. In this case, each step is attached to special bars (they are called bowstrings) located on the sides of the stairs.

Looking at this picture, it is not difficult to understand the principle of fastening the steps. You just need to add that sometimes the bowstring has to be attached to the adjacent wall.

Fastening on stringers. A stringer is a special structural element that represents the support of a staircase. The steps are attached to stringers from above. One of the options for such fastening can be seen in the figure:

There is a third method of fastening stair steps- with support directly on the railing. Since bolts are used in this case - special fasteners - this method is also called the bolt flooring method. Unfortunately, although using “bolt flooring” you can get very beautiful staircase, it is not recommended to use it, since this requires serious professional skills, which not everyone has.

How to attach steps to stringers?

Let us first consider the situation when it is necessary to attach steps to a wooden staircase on stringers. The most obvious way to do this is to use self-tapping screws. Of course, you will need to select sufficiently long self-tapping screws of rather large diameter. In addition, at the attachment points you will have to drill through the steps with a drill.

The main advantage of this approach is its simplicity and accessibility. But after attaching the step you will have to take care of appearance, mask the hole formed in the step. For this purpose, special decorative plugs are used. Most often these plugs are made of plastic. If you choose the right plugs in color and size, they can even decorate the stairs.

Sometimes you can also use a corner to attach stair steps. To do this, such a corner must first be secured to the stringer. This method is most often used when creating wooden stairs with outer skin, completely hiding the kosour.

The least reliable fastening is considered to be landing the steps on wooden pins inserted at the other ends into the stringers. Despite the use of glue, such a connection can become loose and its use is limited.

How to attach steps to strings?

The most “correct” way of attaching steps when constructing a staircase on strings is traditionally considered to be inserting each step into grooves specially cut for them in each of the strings.

This is the mounting method shown in the picture. The most attractive aspect of groove mounting is reliability, but equally important is that in this case no additional elements fasteners Such a staircase does not need to be covered with cladding, and it will not lose any of its visual appeal.

Other methods of attaching steps to a staircase with strings are based on a kind of “replacement” of the stringer with various additional structural elements attached to the strings. These can be, in particular, linings, special support bars, and in fact simple case- durable metal brackets. Such brackets are attached to the bowstrings with self-tapping screws. All these solutions, although they reduce the aesthetic appeal of a “stripped” staircase without cladding, are used very often because it is much simpler than cutting grooves.

"Single-sided" fastening

Very often the staircase is adjacent directly to the wall. In this case, you can fasten the steps on one side to the string, and on the other to the wall. In the simplest case, if the wall is wooden, this will not cause significant difficulties - after all, such a wall can simply be considered as a bowstring. But if the wall is concrete, you will have to think about the method of fastening.

The most radical approach involves literally “implanting” the steps into the concrete. Of course, in this case the complexity of the work increases sharply. In addition, if you make a mistake, the wall will subsequently crumble when walking up the stairs. Therefore, it is much easier to use conventional fasteners, for example, corners and brackets, which can be fixed in specially drilled holes.

A few words about the steps themselves

Most often, steps for stairs are purchased already finished form, what prevents you from seeing their important design feature- in the overwhelming majority of cases, what we have in front of us is not a single piece of wood, but a “gluing together” of two, and sometimes more, separate fragments. The fact is that steps made from a whole piece are often subject to cracking, and this shortens their service life.

That's why, if you want to make the entire staircase yourself, you must first learn how to glue the steps for the stairs. Professionals perform this gluing in wires, special devices providing optimal conditions for the glue to harden. There are three main gluing methods:

Gluing "on the rail". In this option, a groove is cut out in each of the glued bars. A special rail is inserted into these grooves, which serves as an additional link. Unfortunately, it is also a vulnerable point - if a step then breaks, then it is along the rail.
Butt gluing. The simplest way is to glue the ends of the beams directly together. Unfortunately, this method does not allow you to get the strongest connection.
Tongue and groove bonding. It is reminiscent of the “slat” method, but there is no slat - instead, a protruding ridge is made on one of the boards, which is then inserted into a “reciprocal” groove on the other board. This method is considered the most accurate, but also the most difficult.

Wood trim for concrete stairs

Although wooden stairs are rightfully considered the most beautiful and “ecologically friendly”, they still cannot be called either the strongest or the most durable. In addition, each such staircase is quite expensive. It is not surprising that in life you can meet much more often concrete stairs. Such stairs are cheap, practical, very durable, but they have one significant drawback - concrete cannot be called pleasant to look at.

This can be corrected using an external wood finishing. Using wooden steps for a concrete staircase, it is not at all difficult to achieve a noticeable improvement in appearance. Of course, in this case you will need special way fastening steps. As you know, one of the most reliable ways to attach something to a concrete surface is to use dowel nails.

Of course, using dowel-nails directly on the surface of wooden steps would mean pointlessly damaging the material. Therefore, the first stage of facing a concrete staircase should be attaching an impressive layer of plywood to its surface - at least one centimeter thick. Plywood should be taken from those varieties that are resistant to moisture.

Dowel nails will securely secure the plywood layer to the concrete surface. At this stage, you can also straighten the steps a little - it’s no secret that concrete stairs often differ in height. After this, you can begin attaching the wooden steps. The easiest way, as always, is to use powerful screws. Special glue will give additional stability and rigidity to the entire structure.

When working with concrete, we must not forget about one feature of this material - its composition initially contains a lot of moisture. Therefore, you should not attach wooden steps to a freshly cast and hardened concrete staircase - you need to wait two to three months and only then start working. In this case, neither plywood nor wooden steps there will no longer be a threat of cracking.