Attaching a bench to a brick pillar. Tatkin's beds

The traditional Ukrainian dish is lezhni, but I could only “turn it upside down” in the recipe so that the resulting dish no longer resembles lezhni. But the beds were originally planned? So, they will lie down, only with mine light hand and in my interpretation, the beds will go to the people, proudly bearing my name.

Actually, there are only a few differences: in the filling, instead of sauerkraut- mushrooms and no eggs. No eggs because now Lent, but the soul still wants variety.

So, the ingredients:

Potatoes 1 kg
Flour 8-10 tbsp. spoons for dough and 3 tbsp. spoons for deboning
Mushrooms (I used pickled mushrooms, but any will do) 400-500 g
Onion 1 medium head
Garlic 2 small cloves
Lenten mayonnaise (sour cream) 2 tbsp. spoons
1 tbsp. spoon of starch
Salt, pepper to taste

Cooking technique:

Peel the potatoes, wash them thoroughly and boil until fully cooked. Add salt, pepper and beat until pureed. Cool.

Add 1 tablespoon of starch to the cooled potatoes (preferably using potato starch) and gradually stirring, adding flour one spoon at a time. Knead well again. You should succeed soft dough, which sticks slightly to your hands. Cover with a napkin and let stand for 10-15 minutes.

While the dough is resting, let's make the filling.

Wash the mushrooms, strain, then fry in a greased pan vegetable oil. Salt and pepper. Peel the onion and garlic, chop finely and add to the mushrooms. When the onion turns golden, add mayonnaise (sour cream) and simmer over low heat until tender.

Take the dough with a tablespoon, level it on your palm, add the filling, pinch the edges and form a pie. When forming the lezhni, moisten your hands with water, then the dough will not stick to your hands and it is easy to sculpt the lezhni. Roll the lezhni in flour and fry on high fire until golden brown on both sides. Then post it on paper towel, why do you know?

When preparing it, I miscalculated a little and didn’t have enough filling. Fantasy came into play. I found only protein red caviar in the refrigerator from lean meat. Lezhni with caviar is original in taste, but also very tasty. Although, if the caviar had been real, it would have been even tastier.

The caviar adventures are not over. Since I didn’t have enough of it either, I had to make “dummies”. The “dummies” just didn’t impress me, so I ended up with potato rings. The downside of the rings is that you need to eat them right out of the frying pan, but the upside is the crispy, delicate taste that is so alluring that the downside immediately turns into a plus.

Have a delicious one!

Lay down with a mouth full your Tatka.

When constructing buildings for any purpose Special attention specialists pay attention to the installation of the roof as one of the main parts of the facility, especially this point concerns low-rise and country house construction. roofs are a rigid frame on which, in fact, the roofing material is mounted. There are several types of rafter systems; they are used depending on the number of floors, area and purpose of the building. Today we will analyze in detail the installation and installation of layered structures.

Step No. 1: preparatory work

Where to start installation? The first step of any construction work– preparatory! First you need to put the walls and ceilings of the house in order. It’s no secret that the material from which floors are built usually has small differences in size; with each crown or row, the “difference” only accumulates; visually you may not notice it, but a plumb line or level will instantly find the defect (with the help of With these tools, you can find out that the height of the walls differs by a couple of centimeters or that the corners of the house are completely oblique - all these flaws need to be eliminated).

If your building is made of brick or foam blocks, make a cement-sand leveling screed; if the house is wooden, then smooth out the unevenness with wood spacers. All these manipulations will be carried out according to a template (any ready-made diagram will suit you), which will facilitate the process.

In addition, the load on each node is calculated on the basis that the surface is horizontal and the angles are right; if this is not the case, no one can guarantee the reliability of the entire structure.

Small expense – big benefit: Mauerlat

After all the work on leveling the surfaces has been completed, proceed to laying the waterproofing and only then laying the Mauerlat and planks (this is done if necessary). Why do you need a Mauerlat at all? It can be used to correct oblique corners in a room. To correctly install the element, you need to remember the following: the thickness of the logs that will be used as a Mauerlat must be selected so that the fillets for passed through the edge of the walls; If this recommendation is ignored, then you will have to make a cut or install gaskets. If, when laying the mauerlat under the cornice side, you suddenly notice that you have incorrectly determined the thickness of the product, then under no circumstances lift it flush with the top edge. To correct the situation, dismantle part of the external masonry, and then raise the parapet in order to release the fillies beyond the wall.

Step No. 2: how to install the Mauerlat

Let's look at the most common options:

1. Fastening to concrete with studs. This method is only suitable for roofs with large area(250 or more sq.m.). The option involves filling concrete screed, in the armored belt of which studs are embedded vertically.
2. Installation using studs embedded in the wall masonry. A similar method, only the elements are embedded into the wall during the masonry process. It is worth noting that such a mount is only suitable for roofs with an area of ​​less than 250 sq.m.
3. Fastening the Mauerlat with thick wire is the easiest option. The idea is this: between the rows of bricks it is necessary to lay thick wire so that its length is enough to tie around the top of the mauerlat.
4. Installation with nails. If your building is wooden (log house, timber, frame), then it is quite possible to use ordinary nails, screws or self-tapping screws together with metal perforated connectors for wooden systems.

Step #3: installing the bed

The next step is to install the bench, its turn comes immediately after the Mauerlat. First, determine the location of the middle axis; it is on this that the bed will be located. If you are building a roof with four slopes, then make sure that the ends of the planks are at an equal distance from the gable and side mauerlats; this will allow the angles of the hip and the slope of the main slopes to be the same. If your project does not involve equal angles, follow the recommendations ready-made scheme. It is worth noting that the waterproofing under the bed needs to be double.

The bench must be secured to the internal walls with staples or wire twists. If your building is made of lightweight materials (for example, foam concrete blocks), then first make a reinforcing belt, release anchors, to which the floor will subsequently be attached. Even if you plan to install brick pillars under the bed, the fastenings should still be turned towards the internal walls.

How to properly install racks and purlins

The next step in the work is the installation of purlins and stands. Your roof can be designed with additional side purlins (an option is possible in which there will be none at all) or one ridge purlin, but you cannot do without racks supporting the rafter legs. The racks are made of the same length, this is provided that you have carried out preliminary work to level the surface. After installing the parts, check that they are vertical. The racks are attached to the pre-installed scaffolding with boards, after which the purlins are laid on them. Hip roofs, by the way, are made with purlins that extend beyond the racks.

After all the described actions, check the purlins and racks again, the first should have a strictly horizontal position, and the second should have a vertical position. Make adjustments if necessary, secure all components as required by your project. Disassemble temporary structures, supporting the racks, not yet necessary. The next step is the manufacture of the rafter system

Rafters - the basis of the roof

Rafters are inclined beams (in most cases these are wooden blocks with a cross section of 7×15 cm). They are located at a distance of 60–100 cm from each other (the gap between the rafter legs is 1 m). Elements of the rafter system can be attached to the wall of the house using two methods to choose from (there are more of them, but these are the most popular):

1. Fastening rafters without a Mauerlat. Install the beam on the wall so that it is in the same plane with the rafters. In this case, the load is distributed unevenly along the wall (installation of the Mauerlat ensures uniform distribution), therefore this method Suitable only for light, small roofs.
2. Fastening the rafters to the mauerlat. At this stage of work the most mistakes are made, be careful! It is made by cutting (notching) onto the mauerlat (the rafters are, as it were, strung on the mauerlat). If you neglect the cut, the element will gradually slide down, even if you then perform a high-quality fastening. You cannot make slits in the Mauerlat: you will not achieve the strength of the connection, but the element itself roofing system weaken for sure. Having installed the rafters on the mauerlat, hammer in nails (two on each side) diagonally: thanks to this manipulation, the tree will not move. The parts will be finally held together by a nail hammered perpendicular to the plane.

Now let's look at the three main methods of fastening rafters in the ridge part:

1. Butt mount. Cut the top edge of the rafter at an angle so that it is the same as finished item into the rafter cut at an angle, located on the opposite side. The rafters are fastened under the ridge using two nails (size 150 or larger), they are driven in at an angle (the nail must fit into the cut of the other rafter). The system can be further strengthened by applying a wooden plate or a metal plate (they are attached with nails or bolts).
2. Ridge run. This option is similar to the first. There is only one difference: a ridge beam is placed between the rafters. It is worth noting that the method is quite labor-intensive and is practically not used in roof construction nowadays.
3. Overlapping installation. It is also similar to the first method, only the connection, as you already understood, is overlapped. It is important to pay attention to the following points: the rafters should touch their side planes, and not their ends; It is better to tighten them with a bolt or hairpin (although you can also use nails). This option It is considered the simplest, and it is the one chosen by most specialists.

A couple more points! It would be nice to make a template and use it to check all the rafters; it is best to make your own drawing for each side of the roof. The design of the rafter system implies the following points:

1. Optimal (free-hanging) – 4–5 m.
2. If a longer product is used for the roof (up to 6 meters), then it should be more.
3. If the length of the rafter leg is six meters, then it is necessary to install purlins; you cannot do without additional supports.
4. The rafter system is usually produced in factories; It is very difficult to do it correctly on your own - it is better not to risk it.

1. For rafter legs: 50×150, 100×150, 75×125;
2. For Mauerlat –100×100 and 150×150;
3. For runs –100×100 and 100×200;
4. For puffs – 50×150;
5. For crossbars – 100×150;
6. For racks – 100×100;
7. For a filly – 50×150 mm.

Wood is one of the main building materials, used for the construction truss structures for low-rise buildings. As a rule, wood is used in this matter. coniferous species with humidity up to 20%. has a lot of advantages: it is relatively light, has an acceptable cost, and installation can be done with your own hands.

The rafter system is the skeleton of the roof. It is she who is responsible for the strength of the roof, its reliability and resistance to loads. At self-construction At home, you need to know how to properly make the fastening points of the rafter system so that the roof is reliable and safe.

Construction of the rafter system

The rafter system consists of many elements, each of which performs its own task.

• Mauerlats are responsible for distributing loads on the walls. These beams take the weight of the entire roof and lie on the walls.
• Rafter legs- These are inclined beams that create the required angle of inclination of the roof.
• Purlins are horizontal beams that hold the legs together. There is a ridge run, located at the top, and side ones, located on the slopes.
• The puffs are located horizontally and do not allow the rafter legs to move apart, forming rigid triangles with them.
• Racks and struts(rafter legs) - additional elements, on which the rafter legs rest. They rest against the beds.
• The beam is a horizontal beam located under the ridge; the posts and struts rest on it. The purpose of the bench is to redistribute the point load from the racks.
• The ridge is the junction of the roof slopes.
• Lathing - bars or boards that are placed perpendicular to the rafters. Roofing material is laid on it. The purpose of the sheathing is to distribute its weight.
• An overhang is an elongated edge of a slope that protects walls from precipitation. If the length of the rafter legs is not enough to create an overhang, additional elements are used - fillies.

The structure of the rafter system is shown in the figure.

Also in the roof structure there are roof trusses. This is a continuous assembly consisting of rafter legs, braces, racks and struts (braces, jibs). The truss can be not only triangular, but also trapezoidal, segmental or polygonal. Which type of truss to choose depends on the size of the house. If the distance between the walls is 9-18 m, then a triangular truss is suitable. For houses with a width of 12 to 24 m, trapezoidal or segment trusses are used. If the building width is larger (up to 36 m), then polygonal trusses are used.

The main fastening points for the roof truss system are beam, ridge and mauerlat.

Types of rafter systems

Rafters can be hanging or layered.

Hanging ones rest on the walls and create space. To reduce it, ties are made at the base of the rafters, which connect the rafters and form triangles with them. Hanging systems of various types are used for houses with a width of no more than 17 m. Depending on the width of the building, they are arranged in different ways.

If the width of the house is no more than 9 m, then the rafters are supported vertical beam- the so-called grandmother. It is located under the ridge.

If the width of the house is from 9 to 13 m, additional struts are installed, which at one end rest against the rafters and at the other against the headstock.

For a house width of 13-17 m, two vertical racks, connected at the top by a crossbar (fitting), as in the figure.

Layered rafters rest on a load-bearing wall or columns inside the building. With this method, the rafter has three or more support points. The layered type of rafter system creates less load on the walls of the building and is more durable; it is used for buildings of greater width. Such roofs can be arranged in different ways, depending on the location interior walls, they can be symmetrical or asymmetrical.

How the parts of the rafter system are connected

To connect wooden elements together, nails, bolts, studs are used, as well as metal plates and angles to strengthen the nodes. Additionally, wooden blocks or plates are used.

Fastening methods:

• teeth into a spike,
• teeth point blank,
• emphasis at the end of the crossbar.

The use of metal fasteners does not reduce bearing capacity, since their insertion is not required, unlike fastening, for example, using the tooth-to-tenon method.

Rafters can be not only wooden, but also metal. To fasten metal rafters, various angles, brackets, mounting perforated tape, plates, bolts with nuts or self-tapping screws are used.

Attaching to the Mauerlat

If the wall is concrete, then a reinforced stiffening belt is made in its upper part, in which studs are provided. The Mauerlat will be attached to them.

Rafters can be attached to the mauerlat in two ways: rigid and sliding.

The first method is more popular. For fastening, use special corners with a support bar. There are several ways to attach the rafters to the Mauerlat.

• Each rafter is nailed with three nails: two of them should be crossed, and the third should be located vertically.
• Fastening with a bracket: one end of it is driven approximately into the middle of the support beam, and the other is turned 90 degrees and driven into the rafter.
• Fastening with wire rod: a clamp is made from wire folded in 4 rows, with which the rafter is screwed to the beam. Instead of wire, a special perforated tape is also used. Sometimes this method is used in addition to other fastening methods.
• Using corners: the corner is screwed to the mauerlat and the rafter leg. It is better to use corners with two rows of holes and a stiffener.

The disadvantage of the hard method is that when the building settles, the walls may be damaged. Therefore, rigid fastening is used in brick buildings.

The sliding method implies that the rafters are connected to the Mauerlat by such fastening elements that do not impede their movement within certain limits. This method is used in wooden buildings, which may settle. Using special fastening methods, it is possible to achieve that the rafter will have one, two or three degrees of freedom. In the latter case, a special hinge is used.

One degree of freedom means that the rafter can rotate in a circle. In this case, they are secured with one nail or screw. The two degrees of freedom are circular rotation and horizontal displacement. To do this, the rafters are attached to the mauerlat with metal brackets. Special corner sleds are also used.

At sliding joint in small buildings with a not very heavy roof, fastening is done without cuts. If the building is large, it is recommended to make this knot with a notch on the rafter leg.

Important! The notch is cut precisely on the rafter, and not on the mauerlat, so as not to damage or weaken the beam.

In this case, the fixation can be either rigid (with emphasis on the beam) or movable (with a tooth on outside). Sometimes, instead of cutting out a tooth, an additional block is used.

Ridge connection

After the rafter leg is secured to the Mauerlat, proceed to ridge knot fastenings This connection can be made in three ways: end-to-end, to the ridge girder and overlapping.

For end-to-end fastening, the rafters are cut at the top at an angle equal to the slope of the roof, and connected with nails (150 mm), driving them into the upper planes of the rafters, so that the nails enter the end of the opposite rafter. For strength, a metal plate or wooden plate is attached, which is also nailed or attached with bolts.

When attached to a ridge girder, a ridge beam (purlin) is additionally laid between the rafters; this method is more labor-intensive.

When fastening overlapping, the rafters located on opposite sides overlap each other and touch their side surfaces. They are connected with bolts, nails or studs.

Beam node

The rafters are attached to the beams as follows. the main task fastenings - to prevent the rafters from sliding along the beam, so various techniques are used.

1. It is necessary to cut out a tooth and a tenon in the heel of the rafter, and cut out a stop of the appropriate size in the beam.
2. The attachment point should be 25-40 cm from the hanging edge of the beam.
3. The mounting socket should be 1/4 - 1/3 deep of the beam thickness.
4. Together with the tooth, a spike is cut out, which prevents the rafter from moving to the side. This connection is called a “tooth with a tenon and a stop.”

If the roof is flatter (its angle of inclination is less than 35 degrees), then the rafters are fastened in such a way that the area of ​​their contact with the beam increases. Then use the following methods:

When creating a rafter system for a roof, it is important to remember the following.

• All wooden elements Before installation, they are treated with an antiseptic and fire-resistant compound.
• The thickness of any wooden part should not be less than 5 cm.
• Rafters without posts and struts are not made longer than 4.5 m.
• The Mauerlat must be positioned strictly horizontally.
• It is recommended to make the racks and struts as symmetrical as possible.
• You cannot add elements to the calculated rafter system - this can lead to the appearance of loads where they are not needed.
• At the junction of wood and stone (brick) masonry, waterproofing is needed.

A properly made rafter system is the key to the reliability of the roof. It is the rafters that take on the entire weight of the roofing materials and resist wind loads. Therefore, it is very important to build a rafter system in compliance with technology.

First of all, you should understand what a bench is and what it is used for in order to have a clear idea of ​​designs using this element. IN explanatory dictionary Ushakov interprets this concept as a beam or log that is in a horizontal position and serves as a support for the structure. In construction, this word often means a wooden profile with a large cross-section, which allows it to withstand additional vertical loads, but it can also be reinforced concrete.

Most often, the use of lying beams is associated with the construction wooden houses, although this is not their monopoly. After all, a bed is not only a lower or upper harness wooden box, but also the Mauerlat and the central beam on the floor, installed under the ridge. Therefore, such an element can be used in buildings made of any material.

Installation of the beam for the rafter system

In what designs are beds used?

Bottom harness for frame house

So, what a bench is is now clear, all that remains is to figure out the nodes where it is used. Basically, these are two parts of the building and pedestals for distribution equipment:

• foundation and floor of the building;
• ceiling and roof;
• foundation for industrial equipment.

The images show the use of a wooden plank for arranging the floor in the attic and the rafter system. Currently, in industrial construction (multi-story buildings), wooden beams for floors and foundations are used extremely rarely - there they mainly use reinforced concrete blocks and floors. But when installing gable roofs, the rafter system is still made of wooden beams, therefore, horizontal wooden beams are also needed.

It should be noted that gable roofs This is now a rarity for industrial construction, so there are virtually no horizontal beams (including concrete ones) in the building’s design. Basically, such elements are used in private housing construction for truss roofing systems.

Reinforced concrete beds for transformer substations

For the installation of transformer substations, in order to avoid contact of equipment with the ground, industrial reinforced concrete beds of the LV type are used. This reinforced concrete beams T-shaped section, during installation of which the wide part is laid on the floor, and the leg of the letter serves as a support for the mounted device.

The cross-sectional size of the profile is unified - the width of the heel is 400 mm, and the height of the letter is 500 mm. Only the length can be different, where LV1.6 has 1600 mm, and LV10.4 – 10400 mm. Such beams are installed on reinforced concrete foundations.

Why do you need a right angle and how does this apply to horizontal beams?

Laying the foundation determines the weight, dimensions and quality of the entire superior structure - the mass of the building is calculated with the power of the foundation, and the geometric shapes are related to its perimeter. If the corners of the foundation are straight, then the angles between the walls will also be 90ᵒ, and the roof overhangs will be the same width on each side or along the entire perimeter (depending on the project).

Columnar foundation For wooden house

Therefore, the lower trim (grillage, crown) is made as a quadrangle with angles of 90ᵒ, where the diagonals exactly coincide with each other in length. The Mauerlat meets the same requirements, since the installation of the rafter system directly depends on it. If the top trim has the shape of a parallelogram, then the proportions will be disrupted and it will be impossible to secure the rafter legs evenly.

Installation of horizontal beams in house construction

In most cases, solid or laminated timber is used as a bench, although in some cases sanded or rounded logs are used. In any case, the rules for installing such beams are subject to general principles construction of buildings.

How to calculate and check right angles

The right angle is determined on the construction site at the site of laying the foundation - in accordance with it, the general perimeter of the building will be set. You can get a junction of two lines of this type without complex instruments, using a cord (cotton thread that does not stretch), pegs and a metric tape measure. But here you should be careful - the more accurately the dimensions are set, the better the geometry of the foundation will be.

Determination method right angle

Please note the drawing above:

• at point B, a peg is driven into the ground and a cord is tied to it, the other end of which is taken to point A or point C, at 3m or 4m, respectively;
• for known reasons, the extended segment should turn out to be parallel or to the neighboring plot, or on the street, so that the constructed building fits symmetrically into the exterior;
• in a similar way, stretch the second piece of cord at an angle to the first - in this case, stretch one piece exactly by 3 m, and the second by exactly 4 m;
• if the ends A and C are separated from each other by exactly 5 m, driving pegs there, then the angle ABC will turn out to be right, at 90ᵒ, and the quadrangle for laying the foundation will be marked relative to this calculation.

Checking the foundation and piping

The length of each side of the base is set in accordance with the project - the perimeter that the house under construction will have. When the pegs are driven in at the four corners, the geometry is checked again - the diagonals must exactly coincide with each other (error tolerance ± 1-2 mm). If the diagonals do not coincide, the angles are measured again and the evenness of the perimeter lines is checked.

Checking Diagonals bottom trim

If the house involves any extensions standing on the same foundation, then the marking is carried out in a similar way, then the joints of the logs will have right angles. In such cases, the roofs turn out to be complex (multi-slope) and the slightest failure on the foundation will directly affect their geometry.

Even if, when laying the foundation, there was a slight deviation regarding the angles, and there was a deviation of several degrees, the situation can be corrected with the help of strapping. If for a finished foundation an error of ±20mm can be allowed, then for piping only ±3-5mm. With the help of these planks, a geometrically regular rectangle is assembled, and the perimeter of the entire building also turns out to be regular (rectangular).

Calculation of horizontal beams for ceiling and roof

If the floor between floors is made of wooden beams, or beams, which carry the loads from furniture and racks supporting the ceiling, then the distance between them and their cross section is determined by the length of the span - this is the length of the beam (log) resting on opposite walls. For example, for beams with a length of 5m and a cross-section of 125×200mm, a step of 60cm is set, but if the cross-section increases to 150×225mm, then the step will already be 100cm. All calculations are in the table.

Calculation table wooden beams floors

If we talk about choosing the section of the beam for the ceiling (the beam is suspended), then the strongest profile will be 5 to 7. This means that the beam should have 7 measures in height, and 5 in width, for example, if the height is 200 mm (200/ 7=28.5), then the width needed is 28.5*5=142.5mm. But such sections do not exist, so the closest values ​​are selected, where in any case the height is greater than the width.

These calculations are needed so that under vertical load the deflection horizontal beams was minimal, and the permissible deflection is 1/200-1/300 of the length. It turns out that a five-meter bench in a suspended state under a vertical load can bend by 1.5-2 cm. When installing such ceilings, the beams are hemmed in the form of an arch and after some time they are fixed in a strictly horizontal position, taking into account the deflection.

Another way to calculate the sectional height of suspended beds is to relate their length and sectional height using the 1/25 principle. That is, the vertical section of a five-meter beam should be 5/25 = 0.2 m, but its width will already be selected in accordance with the pitch. These calculations are also relevant for the attic - there may also be vertical loads from any stored items and the roofing system.

For the mauerlat or over the ceiling, the beams can be thinner, since they lie on a plane. But if the roof is without a mauerlat, then the rafters are attached to it instead top harness, and are fixed to each other by beams, which at the same time serve as the basis for supporting the racks under the rafters.

Some installation nuances

Construction of a gable rafter system

If floor beams do not serve as support for a higher structure, then they are usually not perceived as supports, although they are such in their essence. Here, the profiles that are placed on top of the ceiling and serve as a support for the rafter system are called “beddings”.

Their number depends on the expected load on the roof (mass of snow and wind) - that is, it can be one beam that passes under the ridge, one or two beams each different sides ridge or jumper between rafter legs. The cross-section of the beam (log) in such cases is selected in accordance with the cross-section of the rafters - it is desirable that it is not smaller.

Assembling rafters on the ground

The top photo shows how the rafters are assembled on the ground, temporarily connecting them together so that all the triangles exactly match each other. Here the lower lintel will lie flat, since it will lie on the plane of the ceiling. This name determines the presence of racks for supporting the rafter legs.

Linings are used for leveling and ventilation

The beds are also installed on concrete floors, which do not always create a single flat plane. Therefore, to level these beams, pads (plastic, metal, wood) are used, which also help create a ventilation gap. If the attic ventilation is insufficient, this gap will increase the service life of the profile, since natural circulation air will dry it out.

To summarize, it should be noted that the beds do not always rest on a plane along their entire length - in some cases, their role is played by floor (floor) beams. These are, of course, simplified designs, but, nevertheless, they perform their function.

Video: installing a roof deck

Arrangement wooden roof includes two key points: construction of the rafter system and installation roofing covering. The last question is covered in the literature and the Internet in sufficient detail. With choice roofing material no problems either. For example, among other options, there are Various types soft roof, which has been actively spreading lately.

The situation is more complicated with structural solutions for the roof, especially with regard to various subtleties. Installing a bed is one such issue.

What is lying?

The bench is often confused with the Mauerlat due to some similarity in structural functions. Both do not relate to the rafter system itself, but are a transitional section from a non-wooden base (concrete, brick) to a wooden structure.

The meaning of the Mauerlat is to ensure this transition itself. The meaning of the bed is a little different. It consists of redistributing the load on the floor from the roof supports and transferring it from a point position to a larger area.

Lejeune represents wooden beam the entire length of the roof projection (usually coniferous), placed at the same distance from the two side mauerlats or strictly in the middle of the room, if its shape is more complex than rectangular. Large roof structures may include several roof decks. In this case, the central one will be the main one, and the rest will be additional. The latter are placed under the sloped leg of the rafters, under the edge of the valley or hip.

If the shape of the roof is asymmetrical, then the main beam may not be located in the center, but offset to one of the walls.

Regardless of the position of the bench relative to the side walls, it must be installed strictly horizontally. The uniformity of the redistribution of loads, and, consequently, the durability of the truss structure will depend on this.

Fastening the bed and supporting it

Often a bed needs internal support, which is installed on the ceiling (floor attic space or the ceiling of the last floor). Please note that the fastening of the bed is never carried out on these supports (although the fastening itself may take place, but as an additional one). The main fastening of the beam is carried out to the load-bearing walls of the building (meaning the end walls). In fact, the bed should rest on them.

The supports are usually brick columns erected on the floor.

Only in one case can the beam be fixed not to the end load-bearing walls - when the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs.

What to do, if load-bearing walls made of relatively loose materials, such as:

• hollow brick;
• gas silicate or aerated concrete blocks?

IN in this case, reliable fastening It won't be possible to do it directly to the wall. Therefore, at the upper end of the walls, along the perimeter, a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is created, into which a strong steel wire or anchor. The belt is already attached to the belt (as well as the Mauerlat). This ensures reliable fixation of the bed and high-quality performance of its functions.