How to straighten the walls in an apartment. Let's start the main work

When starting to finish the walls with wallpaper, tiles, paints and other types of decorative coatings in an apartment or house, you must first remove all uneven surfaces and remove defects. Because even small defects can subsequently lead to noticeable damage to the finish. The result is a deterioration in the appearance of the wall, and ultimately repeated repairs. If you approach decorating the walls of a room wisely, then first you should do some work to level the surface.

Depending on the humidity level, the type of room, defects and many other features, you can level the walls with your own hands in various ways:

plastering;
plastering the wall;
surface finishing with plasterboard.

Let's look at each method in more detail.

Leveling the wall with putty

Thanks to this option finishing can eliminate small imperfections on the wall surface. This type is ideal before painting, before wallpapering, to hide visible defects.

Before you independently level this surface in an apartment or in other rooms, you must first treat the walls with a primer and only then begin puttying. This type Suitable for minor surface differences.

Tools for wall putty:

wide spatula;
narrow spatula;
flat bottom cuvette;
container for mixing the solution;
level;
a stick (ideally an attachment to a drill) for stirring the solution.

The mixture must be mixed until a cone is formed that retains its shape. The finished putty thickens quickly, so there is no need to mix the solution into large quantities. If thickening has already occurred, it can be diluted to the required state with water or a primer.

Putty application technology

The required amount of the mixture is placed in a cuvette, and the rest is covered to prevent it from drying out quickly. The puttying process should begin from the floor to the ceiling, applying with a spatula a small amount of solution. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture to a large one and apply the latter to the wall acute angle. Then, to a thickness of 1-2 mm, we begin to level the surface with vertical and horizontal strokes, applying a level from time to time.

Undoubtedly, the wider the spatula, the smoother the surface of the wall will be, but, unfortunately, it will be more difficult to hold it.

After the solution has hardened on the wall surface, it is necessary to remove various irregularities by washing with a primer. Then, after washing, wait until it dries completely (usually at least a day) and then you can start sanding to remove roughness. If necessary, you can apply a second layer of putty to the wall, having first primed it (if this is not done, the surface may crack). It is very important to know that under no circumstances should drafts be allowed in the room until the putty has completely dried, i.e., at least three days. Aligning the walls using the method discussed above is possible in various rooms how in living rooms(in the kitchen, bathrooms, etc.) and in technical rooms.

Plastering walls

To level the walls yourself using this method, you need to know that the work is quite labor-intensive, but at the same time the walls look neat and aesthetically pleasing.

If this is the first time you have to work with plaster yourself, then it is better to first try small area walls to understand the principle of operation and “get your hands on it.”

The plastering method is carried out not only in a private house, but is also used a lot in an apartment, because uneven surfaces are quite common there.

The following materials are needed:

guide rails;
level;
drill for mixing the solution with a special nozzle;
deep penetration primer;
roller for priming the wall;
tray;
container for administering the solution.

Padding

First, you should prepare the wall by cleaning it from dust and dirt, removing crumbling elements. Then prime this surface.

The soil mixture helps prepare the wall covering, removes dust and moisturizes it, reduces porosity, prevents the appearance of fungi and mold, and, importantly, enhances the adhesion of the plaster.

The primer is applied using a roller, if there are irregularities in the wall and the recesses must be coated manually with a brush.

After the properly prepared surface has dried, you can begin installing the beacons.

Installation of guide rails (beacons)

When plastering the surface, first set special beacons. These are metal guides, they help to perfectly align the wall.

For beacons you can use not only metal materials, but also wooden slats, plywood, etc.

But unfortunately, by saving on the profile and leveling the wall, not everyone will be able to make it perfectly level, especially if there is no experience in plastering walls. A T-shaped beacon profile would be ideal for this. It is lightweight and durable, securely attached to surfaces.

Beacons should be attached to the wall with plaster mortar in several places and leveled at once before the mortar hardens. The distance between the guides should be 1-1.5 m, but from the corner of the room it should not be more than 30 cm.

Methods for attaching beacons:

plaster. It is better to lay it in a layer with a thickness of 15 to 30 mm, therefore, the beacons should be placed taking into account these dimensions. If you apply a thicker layer, then the plaster may slide off the wall or simply fall off. When using this method, you need to let it dry for about 4 to 5 hours;
using Ushastik devices and self-tapping screws. The distance between slats is usually 1-1.5 m.

Let's start the main work - plastering

The pre-primed wall must be slightly moistened to improve the adhesion of the plaster. Now you should spread the solution onto the surface of the wall in a layer, protruding beyond the guides from 3 to 4 mm, trying to completely fill the recesses in the wall.

After application, it is better to level it immediately, without waiting for the solution applied to the wall to dry. It is convenient to do the alignment by starting from the bottom and moving up and to the side, pressing down a little. If there is not enough plaster on the wall, you need to add it to achieve a smooth surface.

This wall takes up to 12 days to dry. And only after this time can the final decoration be done using modern materials.

Features of plastering depending on the surface

Huge role in quality implementation of these works depends on the material from which the wall is made:

if the wall is brick, then it will require a mortar with a cement base or, if the room is with high humidity, then you need to stop choosing a mixture with the addition of lime. If the walls are made of facing bricks, then a problem arises - the smooth surface of the brick, you have to additionally reinforce the wall with a special mesh so that the plaster does not slip. And already carry out work on such a wall, but this process will be difficult, so if you have little experience, then you should contact specialists or simply choose a different alignment method;
If concrete surface walls. If it is smooth, it must be treated with a specialized soil mixture with quartz inclusions. This will help give the wall a rough look. To improve adhesion, it is worth adding gypsum powder to the cement solution for this surface. Lime- gypsum mixtures also suitable;
foam concrete walls. Gypsum and cement mortars are suitable for this surface. The primer must be used with deep penetration.

Leveling the walls in an apartment with your own hands using the method discussed above is a rather “dirty” and labor-intensive process that not everyone can do the first time.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall finishing

This method is excellent for leveling when there are large differences in the wall surface; the installation itself is not labor-intensive. Doing it yourself is not at all difficult and, undoubtedly, its main advantage is that you can immediately begin decorating the wall immediately after covering it.

There are two methods of attaching drywall to the surface:

installation on a frame;
installation with adhesive directly to the wall.

Frame method

The main disadvantage of this method is that it reduces the area of the room by approximately 5 cm. But this method is quite reliable.

For installation plasterboard sheets Most often, the installation of a durable frame is used. It is made from galvanized profile.

Types of metal profiles:

guide – PN (U-shaped)
rack-mount - PS.

Straight U-shaped hangers are also additionally needed; it is better to fix them using dowel-nails in increments of 40 to 50 cm. They are necessary for more reliable fastening of the rack profile.

Required tools:

perforator;
screwdriver;
metal scissors;
level;
roulette;
knife for cutting drywall;
dowel-nails;
self-tapping screws

Leveling the wall with plasterboard sheets is carried out using additional markings. This is enough important stage. Because according to this marking the frame will be attached. The standard width of plasterboard is 120 cm, so the distance between the racks must be 60 cm. Thus, the edges of the plasterboard will be in the middle of the metal profile and it will ultimately be laid on 3 racks. The height of the profile must match the height of the room.

It is necessary to attach a guide profile along the entire perimeter of the wall, taking into account that the length to the edge is at least 3.5 cm.

The profile is mounted according to the markings made.

Profile installation steps:

a guide profile is installed on the dowel-nails, holes are made with a hammer drill directly through the profile;
attach the rack profile, inserting it into the guide, adjusting it according to the markings made, fastening it with self-tapping screws;
in increments of no more than 80 cm, install direct hangers and attach the racks to the hangers with self-tapping screws. It is important that the racks are vertical, without bending.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the existing frame using self-tapping screws, taking steps of about 25 cm. Standard height 2.5 m of plasterboard and in higher rooms it is necessary to sew additionally, and in addition a horizontal profile should be added to the frame between the racks. Additional sheets of drywall should be installed in a checkerboard pattern.

When sheathing a wall, you need to leave room for a gap of 5 mm between the sheets.

Seam sealing steps:

thorough priming of seams;
using self-adhesive sickle tape to seal the seams;
Putty the joints, then sand them.

Installation of plasterboard sheets with adhesive composition

To begin with, it is better to remove it thoroughly old finishing walls, then you should use putty to repair the unevenness and defects of the wall. After preliminary preparation of the surface, it must be primed.

The next step will be preparing the plasterboard sheets for applying glue. First you need to cut the sheets for pasting, taking into account that there should be gaps of about 5 cm at the top and bottom.

You need to drill holes on the wall for dowel nails. They will additionally support the drywall on the wall until the adhesive has completely dried.

The glue is prepared from special mixture and water. It dries almost immediately, so it should be prepared in small batches.

When everything is ready, glue should be applied to reverse side drywall. It is applied in longitudinal stripes along the edge and in heaps every 25-30 cm along the rest of the surface. Then, without leveling the glue, we apply the sheet to the wall, pressing it evenly.

At the final stage, gluing drywall is required, as in frame method- sealing seams. Finishing the surface in this way is quite simple, almost anyone can do it.

It is important to know that in order to level the walls of rooms with high humidity (for example, in the kitchen), you need to use moisture-resistant plasterboard near water supply lines.

Thus, having learned how to level walls with your own hands, you can make high-quality repairs in the kitchen or other rooms.

Smooth planes are an indispensable condition quality repairs, in apartments there is often a need to level the walls, since ideal geometry is rare even for new buildings, and in old houses this problem is even more pressing. The process is not easy, but with patience and adherence necessary requirements, all work can be done on your own.

Small irregularities and minor defects can be easily hidden under wallpaper and decorative plaster. In more difficult cases Wall leveling is carried out using one of the main methods - the application method. plaster mixture or facing with plasterboard. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Use of building mixtures

If the walls of the apartment are relatively flat and have a slight degree of curvature, many owners often prefer the use of leveling solutions.

This leveling method has been known for a long time, and it has a number of positive aspects:

during the plastering process, the internal volume of the room remains practically unchanged;
perfect for any room ( for various purposes and operating conditions);
tiles, wallpaper, painting, and other finishing coatings adhere well to the prepared base;
it is not necessary to treat the entire surface; partial leveling of problem areas is allowed;
all works using available construction tool, you can do it yourself.

To reduce the thickness of the applied layer, at the preparatory stage, all cracks and recesses are pre-filled with quick-drying mixtures, and the protrusions are knocked down using a hammer drill.

The disadvantages include the following:

the plaster mixture is suitable for leveling out minor differences; an increase in layer thickness leads to increased material consumption, financial and time costs;
special skills are required; in their absence, it is very difficult to immediately obtain the desired result;
To ensure that the applied solution dries well before finishing, depending on the thickness of the layer, it is left for 2–3 or more days.

Basic preparatory work

If the wall is concrete, then the simplest, most accessible and common method is to use cement-sand mortar. The technology is simple, so if you have no experience, you can acquire and improve the necessary skills in the process.

To carry out plastering correctly, follow the step-by-step instructions:

The surface is cleaned of the previous finish, for which old wallpaper and areas of poorly fixed plaster are removed, and protrusions are knocked down.
Turn off the voltage and disassemble the sockets. If necessary, they are replaced, and the wires are laid in grooves.
Remove all fasteners (screws, nails, hooks).
Existing deep cracks are widened and filled with cement mortar.
Having prepared the base, it is cleaned of dirt and dust.

The next stage is priming. For better adhesion of the applied mixture to the surface, it is recommended to use a deep penetration composition with antiseptic properties. ABOUTnatstrengthens the base, improves adhesionand prevents the appearance of mold and fungus development.

On open, flat areas, the primer is applied using a roller in a continuous layer, but in corners it is more convenient to use a brush. After the first layer, after a pause necessary for it to dry, the treatment is repeated.

Beacons must be placed before plastering the walls. Metal profiles with a T-shaped section or ordinary wooden slats are well suited for these purposes. They are pressed into “cakes” of cement or gypsum mortar that have been previously thrown onto the base and, until it sets, they are quickly leveled.

The distance between the beacons is arbitrary, but for ease of work, at least 30 cm are spaced in the corners of the room.

The main thing is that the rule at the edges rests on adjacent profiles and moves freely in the vertical direction.

When starting plastering, you can take the dry mixture in the package and, diluting it with water, prepare it in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Or, using the most common materials - cement and sand, mix it yourself. Next, taking a trowel or spatula, the finished composition is applied to the pre-moistened wall so that the layer protrudes above the level of the beacons by 2-3 mm.

Then, trying to smooth the surface, a rule is drawn along them from bottom to top. Add solution to places where small depressions remain and re-level them. If necessary, apply another layer, leveling it in a circular motion, and leave the wall to dry. At the final stage, putty is used as a finishing touch.

When working in separate rooms, you have to pay attention to the specifics of their purpose and operating features. So, the bathroom is relatively small room, so there are no particular difficulties, but given the high humidity and intensity of use, the natural question is - what material to choose?

Best in your own way will suit the characteristics cement-sand or gypsum leveling mixture, their structure after hardening acquires necessary properties, increasing resistance to moisture. You can also install waterproof drywall, but the room is small, and the frame will take up a certain space. At the end of all the work, the walls can be painted, but the best option is to glue them ceramic tiles because it will create additional protection and ennoble appearance.

Internal and external corners

There are several ways to align corners, but the simplest and most effective is using perforated profiles. When eliminating irregularities internal corner You need to do a series of sequential works with your own hands:

Apply a quick-hardening mixture along the entire height in the most even places at equal intervals of 150–250 mm;
pressing the corner into it metallic profile(internal shelves facing out), check its position relative to the level;
leave until completely hardened;
then, starting from the flat sides of the corner, begin the main finishing work.

The external protrusion is made in the same way, but the perforated corner is applied in reverse. Having completed the final leveling of the side surfaces and waiting for the material to completely harden and dry, begin grinding it. To do this, take a grater or sandpaper, securing it in a special holder, and, applying light pressure, move in a circular motion over the entire surface.

The number of layers applied and the choice of material, starting or finishing, depends on how curved the walls are.

Upon completion of the work, in order to remove adhering plaster from the tool, place it temporarily in a container of water or use a small spatula. If painting is planned as a final finish or wallpaper will be hung, then better adhesion materials, a primer is applied to the walls.

Visual alignment method

Very often it is not necessary to completely plaster all surfaces; sometimes it is enough to identify and eliminate them “by eye.” problem areas in the form of protrusions and depressions. This method is highly efficient and allows for significant savings in time and materials.

The main attention is paid to such significant places as corners, doorways, ceiling and wall joints. The remaining planes are leveled using the rule, pressing it and simultaneously moving it along the surface, determining the presence of depressions. Having filled them with plaster, remove the excess with a tool, repeatedly applying it to the walls. The solution is applied in several layers, each of which must be dried and coated with a primer on top.

The actions are continued until the plane is level and the rules are completely aligned in the absence of recesses. After plastering works Finishing putty is used as a final finish. After waiting for it to dry, the surface is polished using a special grater or sandpaper.

The visual method is complex and requires a certain skill, so it is used only experienced builders. But all the work can be done in a short period of time and, if the partition has a slight slope, an acceptable result can be obtained. As a result, all the main decorative elements (plinths, baguettes) will be positioned perfectly evenly.

Use of plasterboard structures

Due to the complexity of plaster leveling, installation of gypsum boards is increasingly being chosen as the main method of eliminating unevenness. This is also true if the house is wooden and the use of leveling solutions is impossible.

The main advantages include the following:

You can quickly fix very crooked walls;
ease of working with surfaces made of any material (concrete, gas blocks, brick, wood);
The frame method allows you to improve sound insulation properties and provide additional insulation of walls.

Disadvantages of using drywall:

the partition reduces the internal volume of the room;
even moisture resistant material with prolonged contact with water, it loses its initial characteristics;
increased requirements for finishing, which includes the need to reinforce the seams with mesh, followed by putty and grouting of the surface;
Additional help is required, since it is difficult to carry out installation on your own, especially without the proper experience.

Sheets are mounted in two ways: framed and frameless. Each has its own technology and area of application. The first option involves installing sheathing; it is carried out when there is significant curvature of the walls, when installing additional insulation, soundproofing the room, and also when it is necessary to hide wires.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a plasterboard structure:

Wallpaper and “moving” parts of the old coating are removed from the surface.
Draw a line on the ceiling and mark the outer edge of the sheets. Transfer the boundary to the floor using a plumb line.
The position is marked on the walls vertical racks(three units per sheet) and attachment points for hangers necessary for adjustment.
Having secured the damper tape to the guides (using dowels every 30–40 cm), they are attached to the ceiling or floor.
After drilling holes in the wall, hangers are installed.
Vertical posts are fixed with self-tapping screws, checking their position with a level and pre-installing them in the guides. Then they are fixed on hangers, bending the protruding parts to the sides.
If necessary, additional jumpers are installed at the horizontal joints, which add rigidity to the frame.
Holes are drilled for switches and sockets, and chamfers of 45˚ are made at the joints of the sheets.
Prepared drywall fragments (of the required size) are attached to the sheathing with hardware, slightly recessing the heads into the material.
At the final stage, the surfaces are puttied and the wallpaper and tiles begin to be glued.

Fastening gypsum boards with glue

With this method, if the planes are relatively flat and do not need preparation, the sheets are mounted directly on the base.

The work order is as follows:

Remove the old coating, knock down the protrusions and, widening the existing cracks, seal them with mortar.
The walls are treated with a deep penetration primer.
Prepare and cut drywall.
Special glue is applied to each sheet in the form of stripes around the perimeter plus several dotted elements inside it.
The workpiece is pressed against the wall. Check its position relative to the plane and, if everything is in order, hold it for a minute, waiting for the adhesive mixture to set.

It is very important to correctly position the first cladding element, since all the others will be joined to it. To make the task easier and prevent sheets from slipping, in the lower part at the level of the plinth, screw the rail u. By holding the fragments in the desired position until the glue dries completely, it will ensure reliable adhesion of the surfaces. Then it is removed and the installation site is covered with a plinth.

Before wallpapering, start finishing GKL:

connecting seams are covered with reinforcing mesh and puttied;
after waiting for them to harden, using fine sandpaper carry out grouting;
the surface is primed twice, taking a break from working until each layer is completely dry;
Before gluing the wallpaper, the surface is puttied again, but in the case of tiling, decorative stone it's not obligatory.

By correctly determining the volume of work to be done, the consumption of material and assessing the quality of the walls, you can significantly simplify the repair. After all, if the curvature is slight, there is no need to construct a frame and install gypsum board sheets. Then, to obtain the required result, in order to eliminate minor unevenness, all surfaces need to be cleaned and leveled using plaster.

In old Soviet-built houses, the walls, unfortunately, are not always particularly even. In most cases, their surface is covered with bumps and pits, has cracks or chips. Moreover, their plane itself often deviates significantly from the vertical or horizontal. Of course, rooms with such walls do not look very attractive. Before wallpapering, painting or, for example, before finishing with decorative plaster, the surfaces of enclosing structures in such apartments have to be adjusted. How to level the walls? Of course, many homeowners would like to know the answer to this question. Surfaces with defects can be corrected using different materials.

Two main techniques

There are two main ways to level indoor walls these days:

dry;
raw.

In the first case, leveling the walls with wallpaper or decorative plaster most often done using drywall. Also, dry correction technology may involve the use of plywood, lining or PVC boards. When using the raw leveling technique, they usually use different types plaster.

What types of mixtures are there?

Such materials for leveling walls are usually supplied to the market in dry bags. Before use, they must be diluted with water in the amount specified in the instructions for use. Plaster can be used to level the walls:

plaster;
cement;
clay;
acrylic;
silicate.

Advantages and disadvantages of gypsum compositions

The initial mass of materials of this type is a very fine powdery dry mixture. The answer to the question of how to level the walls in an apartment is that gypsum plaster is a very good answer. Among other things, it includes: various kinds plasticizers. And therefore it lies on the walls very smoothly.

Using this plaster, leveling can be done concrete walls or brick. Such mixtures are generally not used only in very wet rooms - saunas, bathrooms, swimming pools, etc. It is also not allowed to use gypsum to level the facades of buildings.

The main advantages of this type of plasters are:

high degree of elasticity;
excellent adhesion to the treated surface.

Craftsmen also include its fine texture as an advantage of gypsum plaster. Leveling walls under wallpaper using such mixtures has the advantage that at the final stage in this case it is not necessary to use finishing putty. Another undoubted advantage of such plasters is their rapid maturation. If necessary, you can start gluing walls lined with gypsum mixture within a week.

The disadvantages of compositions of this variety include, first of all, their high cost. Leveling walls with gypsum plaster is usually quite expensive. Products of this variety cost approximately one and a half to two times more than cement ones. Also, the disadvantages of mixtures of this type include a very short viability period. The prepared gypsum mixture must be used within an average of 45 minutes. Of course, such a short “life” makes working with this type of plaster not particularly convenient.

The best brands of gypsum mixtures

Of course, when choosing this type of plaster, like any other, you should first of all pay attention to the manufacturer’s brand. The most popular gypsum mixtures in our country are:

"Osnovit". Plaster of this brand can remain viable for up to 90 minutes. It costs about 250-300 rubles. per bag.
"Knauf". This manufacturer supplies the Russian market with very high-quality Rotband gypsum mixture. A bag of this plaster costs about 400 rubles. Leveling walls with “Rotband” is not a particularly complicated procedure. This mixture can remain viable for one and a half hours. In addition, it has a high degree of plasticity.
"Eunice". After preparation, such mixtures must be processed within 50 minutes. They cost about 300 rubles. per bag.

Pros and cons of cement compositions

It is this material that most often serves as the answer to the question of how to level the walls inside or outside the room. There are two main types of such plasters on the market today. To level surfaces, either a cement-lime mixture or a cement-sand mixture can be used.

Both of these types of plaster work on walls no worse than plaster. At the same time, the cement leveling mixture is much cheaper. This type of plaster is the best answer to the question of how to line the walls in the bathroom. It is perfect for wet rooms.

The only thing in which cement plaster is inferior to gypsum plaster is its not too smooth texture. After using such a mixture, it is usually necessary to additionally apply finishing material. Another disadvantage of cement plaster compared to gypsum plaster is long term maturation. You can begin the final finishing of walls leveled using it only after about a month.

The best manufacturers of cement mixtures

Compositions of this type, like gypsum, are supplied to the domestic market by many companies. But the most popular plasters in our country are:

cement-lime "Osnovit Starwell-21";
cement-lime Polimin ShV 1;
cement-sand “Vetonit TT”.

The Starwell mixture can be used to level walls not only indoors, but also outside. This plaster costs about $5.9 per bag weighing 25 kg. Polimin ShV 1 mixtures are only allowed to be used indoors. The permissible maximum thickness of the leveling layer when using both of these types of plaster is 20 mm. The price of Polimin ШВ 1 mixtures is approximately $3.6.

Vetonit TT compositions can be used for leveling indoor walls and facades. They can be applied to the surface in a layer of up to 3 cm. This plaster costs about $9 per 25 kg.

How to level walls outside: acrylic compounds

Building facades are thus most often leveled using cement plaster. However, acrylic mixtures are sometimes used for this purpose. Such materials are more expensive, but they provide a much more durable leveling layer. This finishing composition is made based on aqueous solution acrylic The main advantages of this type of plasters are:

elasticity;
good degree of heat and sound insulation;
frost resistance;
ease of use.

The disadvantages of this type of plasters, as well as gypsum plasters, include a short pot life. Also, such a mixture did not deserve too much good feedback consumers and for not a particularly high degree of vapor permeability. Unfortunately, walls covered with this type of plaster simply stop “breathing.” One of the disadvantages of mixtures of this variety is that after drying they can accumulate static tension and attract various types of debris.

The best brands of acrylic mixtures

The most popular manufacturers of such plasters in Russia, as well as gypsum plasters, are Osnovit, Vetonit and Knauf. Ceresit brand plasters are also often used to level facades. Such mixtures are usually supplied to the market already in finished form. There is no need to dilute them with water. It is convenient to work with them, but plasters of this type are also more expensive than gypsum and cement. Therefore, they are usually used only for correcting walls that have only minor defects.

Advantages and disadvantages of silicate mixtures

Leveling walls for painting or any other type of decorative finishing using such material can be done both outside and inside the room. But most often, silicate plaster, like acrylic, is still used for finishing facades. Such materials are made based on silicone resin. They also contain liquid potassium glass, a water-repellent agent and mineral fillers. Like acrylic, silicate plaster is expensive. And they use it, accordingly, only for leveling walls that have minor defects or as a finishing touch after a cement-sand mixture.

The advantages of silicate plasters include primarily:

elasticity and good adhesive properties;
high degree of strength;
resistance to various types of atmospheric influences.

The main disadvantage of such mixtures is their short pot life.

Raw wall leveling technology: main features

Acrylic and silicate plasters, therefore, in most cases are applied to the walls in a thin layer using conventional technology - with a spatula or using a sprayer. Cement and gypsum mixtures are usually applied to the surface in a thick layer. Therefore, when working with them, among other things, special guides are used - beacons. The use of such additions allows you to obtain the most even surfaces. In this case, work is carried out in several stages:

First, the old plaster layer is removed from the wall (if necessary).
The surface is primed. Depending on what type of plaster is intended to be used in the future, a gypsum- or cement-based product is used to treat the surface.
Beacons are installed. To level the walls, a special profile is usually used, which can be purchased at any construction hypermarket. Beacons are attached to the wall using cement or gypsum mortar according to the level. The distance between them should be slightly less than the length of the rule.
The plaster itself is laid between the beacons. The wall can be treated with the solution either manually or, for example, using a sprayer.
The mixture is carefully leveled using a rule.

After the composition dries, the beacons are removed from the wall. To level the walls (seal the grooves remaining after the profile), a little more gypsum or cement plaster is added. At the final stage, the surface is treated with a paint float and covered with a thin layer of fine-textured mixture.

Finishing putty: varieties

Compositions of this type can be:

cement (based on very fine sand or lime);
plaster;
silicate;
acrylic.

For wet rooms and facades, depending on the budget, you can choose cement plasters, acrylic or silicate. To decorate the inside of rooms, gypsum is usually used. Also, in some cases, cement can, of course, be used for this purpose. Putties of this type are applied over plaster, often using a special reinforcing painting mesh.

Drywall

Plasters are, of course, just an excellent answer to the question of how to level the walls. However, such means, unfortunately, can be used mainly only for removing holes and bumps from the surface. More serious defects in the form of deviations from the plane using a crude technique are quite difficult to correct, and sometimes even impossible. After all, applying plaster compositions to surfaces is only allowed in a not too thick layer.

Some disadvantage of the raw technology is that it can be used to level mainly only concrete or brick walls. For wood, such materials are usually not used.

Therefore, the raw method is not suitable for eliminating serious wall defects, as well as for leveling paving or chopped surfaces. In this case, another correction method is usually used - dry. With this technology, the walls are simply sheathed along the frame with some kind of sheet material. In this case, different types of finishing can be used. But most often plasterboard is used for this purpose.

Actually, the gypsum board sheets themselves for wall correction can be used in two main varieties:

ordinary;
moisture resistant.

The second type of gypsum board differs from the first primarily in color. Moisture resistant sheets have a greenish tint. They are, for example, an excellent answer to the question of how to line the walls in the bathroom. Nowadays, fireproof gypsum plasterboard is also produced by industry. Sheets of this variety can withstand not only very high temperatures, but even open fire (for an hour). Such drywall is very expensive, and therefore it is mainly used only for leveling the surfaces of stoves and fireplaces.

The best brands of drywall

The leading manufacturers of gypsum boards in Russia are:

Lafarge.
Rigips.
Giproc.

All these brands of drywall are of good quality. But Knauf sheets are still the most popular in our country. This company supplies three main types of gypsum boards to the domestic market:

wall thickness 12.5 mm;
ceiling - 9.5 mm;
arched - 6.5 mm.

If desired, today you can purchase both regular sheets from this manufacturer 2500 x 1200 mm, and non-standard ones. The width of the latter can be 600-1500 mm, length - 1500-4000 mm, and thickness - 6.5-24 mm.

Plasterboard finishing technology

No special preparation of walls is required when using gypsum boards. In this case, the surfaces are usually simply cleaned of dirt and dust. Next, a special aluminum or steel profile. Actually, the drywall itself is attached to it using dowels of a special design with plastic wide heads. GKL sheets are fixed during installation so that cross-shaped seams do not form between them.

At the final stage, the plasterboard surface can either be covered with wallpaper or treated with a thin layer of plaster. Of course, plasterboard and finishing putty are often used for finishing.

Lining, plywood and plastic panels

Such materials are also usually used when surfaces have large deviations from the horizontal or vertical. In addition, this finish can also be used when the walls need to not only be leveled, but also insulated.

In the latter case, timber is usually used to assemble the frame under the material. It can be mounted on the wall either vertically or horizontally. Actually, for insulation between the beams of the frame, slabs of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene are subsequently installed. Then a vapor barrier film is sewn on top, and the leveling material itself is installed on top of it.

Ideal angles and absolutely flat wall surfaces can be achieved using drywall. But not everyone agrees to give up their modest living space to this finishing material. With the help of dry plaster and your own efforts, you can achieve good results. It is recommended to level the walls not only for painting, but also for wallpaper. Finishing walls benefits many times over if it is applied to a prepared, flat surface. It is not uncommon to observe how through beautiful expensive wallpaper poorly treated walls are visible, this is especially noticeable on light-colored thin wallpaper. And on top of the wallpaper, crookedly glued ceiling plinths fit wavy to the wall and create a shadow when artificial lighting. At the very least, it looks ridiculous, so before painting the walls and wallpapering them, you need to level the vertical surfaces. In this article, we will consider the option of leveling walls in a panel house.

What do we need to level the walls?

Buckets, basins and rags can be found in every home. In addition, to perform wall leveling work we will need:

quick-hardening dry plaster for filling obvious depressions and straightening large curvature of external corners;
dry plaster of good quality, for finishing walls for painting - base gray and finishing white;
primer;
roller, sprayer or brush for applying primer;
wide metal spatulas, at least 2 pieces; angular spatula; spatula-scraper;
trowel or trowel;
rule or half-grater;
grater or sandpaper holder;
sandpaper 0;
emery block;
mixer attachment for drill;
scales;
measuring container for water;
spatula or scoop for dry plaster;
perforated corners.

Buy the base and finishing putty that hardens not too quickly; it is difficult for an inexperienced person to quickly use the prepared mixtures. It is best to choose all finishing materials (mixes, primers) from one manufacturer. The number of perforated corners should match the number of corners you plan to edit. This means that the corners will subsequently remain in the solution cavity.

Preparing the walls

Before you start leveling the walls, you need to remove the finishing material from them (wallpaper, paint, ceiling and floor plinth), i.e. peel to the slab using spatulas. Old wallpaper can be removed better if it is pre-moistened with water. For compactness, wallpaper scraps are stacked on top of each other and wrapped in rolls, which are secured with tape.

After the surface of the walls is cleared, it is necessary to treat them with sandpaper, i.e. it is necessary to remove all strongly protruding bumps and old blotches. Use a corner spatula in corners. Protruding reinforcement must also be removed. The most uneven places on the walls panel houses, usually in corners, under the ceiling and near the floor. Think about whether you can remove excess thickness around the entire perimeter? Leveling the main area of the wall to it is problematic, there is too much work, so it would be more advisable to do smooth transitions between the main part of the wall and the top (bottom). Once the wall is wallpapered or painted, this difference will not be noticeable.

After completely cleaning the walls, you need to remove all dust from them with a broom or vacuum cleaner. It would be a good idea to wash them with any detergent.
Next, you need to apply a primer to the entire surface. The main work can begin after the primer has dried.

Main works

If there are obvious depressions or large cracks on the walls, they must be sealed with a quick-hardening mixture. Try to immediately level the surface of the “patches”. After the partially sealed areas are completely dry (the drying time is indicated on the package with the mixture), apply a primer to them. Then you can begin the main work.

They begin to level the walls, i.e. apply the solution from the floor. To do this, mix dry plaster with water in the recommended proportions. The recipe must be followed, otherwise the solution, which is too liquid, will drain, will not adhere well to the walls, and when it dries, such a surface will be covered in small holes from bursting air bubbles. A mixture that is too thick will harden before you have time to even it out.
The container in which you will mix the solution should be wide enough to make it easier to hook the mixture onto a trowel or spatula.

When plastering walls, you need to master the basic movement: throwing mortar onto the wall. Do this with force, as if you want to drive the mixture into the surface of the wall, then it will stick well and all you have to do is level it. Experienced craftsmen They know how to throw the solution with a trowel, which they use to scoop up the mixture. For a beginner, this process is not so simple, so it is more appropriate to use the same trowel and spatula, or you can also use this method: put the solution on the trowel with a spatula, then take a little of the mixture with the same spatula and throw it on the wall. Everyone throws the solution in their own way, so decide how it’s more convenient for you to do it. Having thus applied the solution to a surface of about 1 m2, level this area with a float or trowel. Level the solution using circular movements. Continue mixing, applying plaster and leveling the surface to the ceiling.

If in some places the wall has a wave-like shape, then fill only the low areas until you level them with ridges.

Apply the plaster to the layer thickness for which it is intended. Do not try to plaster the entire area in one layer; even professionals do not do this.

When applying the base coat, it is not necessary to level it perfectly, because you will be applying at least 1 more layer on top of it.

You cannot add a new portion of dry plaster or water to an already prepared solution. The entire prepared solution must be used immediately. If you have any left over, remove it immediately from the container before it hardens; this will be problematic later.

There is some difficulty in aligning internal and external corners. But this point is very important, because carelessly executed corners nullify all efforts to level the walls and at the same time can hide all existing flaws.

Correcting the corners

Internal and external corners can be leveled using perforated corners.

The inner corner must be leveled as follows: apply a quick-hardening mixture along the entire height of the corner at intervals of 15 - 25 cm and secure the perforated corner to it. Before fastening, it is necessary to determine where the largest depressions and bumps are and, based on this, try to fix the corner evenly. Before hardening, the solution must be distributed over the entire corner and left until completely dry. After the allotted time, you need to continue leveling the corner, leaving it in the cavity of the corner (i.e. there is no need to remove the corner) with finishing or starting putty, depending on how many layers you will do.

The external corner is made in a similar way, only the perforated corner is applied in reverse. In case of large curvature of the corner, it is necessary to apply several layers of solution until complete leveling.

Once you have applied enough coats of plaster and you think the wall is fairly level, sand the entire surface. This is done using a grater or sandpaper holder. Before painting or wallpapering walls, apply a primer to them.

You can clean tools from adhering plaster using a small spatula, and it is not at all necessary to clean the tool until it shines every time; you can put it in a container of water until the next day.

Soundproofing

By plastering the walls, you will significantly increase their sound insulation. Having installed new ones in the apartment entrance doors with sound insulation, plastic windows Of course, it is possible to achieve a significant reduction in noise penetration from the street and from the site. But these are not all the measures that are necessary to ensure the least penetration of noise from neighbors. In order to isolate your apartment from your neighbors, you need to fill the floors and plaster the ceiling in several layers. But the most important thing is to think carefully about the location. electrical outlets. They are, for the most part, conductors of noise between apartments.

In old houses, the walls are not always smooth, and in new buildings, developers very often overlook obvious defects and flaws. They can be bumps, cracks or chips. It happens that the horizontal or vertical planes are not level. Premises with such defects look unpresentable. Because Decoration Materials for walls must lie on a perfectly flat surface, you have to level the walls yourself or invite specialists. You need to be especially careful when leveling the walls under the wallpaper, because all errors, even the smallest ones, easily appear through the paper.

Wallpaper is considered the most popular and best-selling finishing product for interior cladding. Now we are offered a fairly huge selection of wallpapers with different textures and colors. Wallpaper also differs in the backing, which requires a certain adhesive composition, but in terms of the principle of pasting and appearance on the wall, they are all similar to each other.

Before pasting any wallpaper (non-woven, vinyl or paper), all preparatory measures must be completed. To make the wallpaper look perfect and maintain its appearance for a long time, it is important to properly level the walls.

Before you start work, you need to decide how to level the walls. Factors affecting right choice building materials for leveling walls:

size and number of defects;
economic component;
deadlines for completing quality work.

Leveling methods and materials used

There are two main materials for leveling walls:

dry material;
liquid mixtures.

Methods by which alignment can be achieved:

putty;
plaster;
use of drywall.

Before you decide on upcoming choice material, it is necessary to evaluate the quality characteristics of existing walls. You can consult either repairmen or a seller at the construction market.

If the wall plane has small defects and flaws, then putty can be used as a leveling compound. It can be found in the form liquid composition, which is ready for use, as well as in the form of dry mixtures that must be properly diluted before starting work. It is usually written on the packaging container how and in what quantitative proportions this should be done.

This option for the initial preparation of the wall before finishing is considered classic. It is chosen by most buyers.

The technology of leveling walls under wallpaper using putty is a careful application of the composition. Before that mandatory stages are:

Preparing and cleaning walls from obvious defects.
Application of an antibacterial composition.
Surface primer.

Then ready putty mixture Apply evenly to the walls with a long spatula. You will also need a small tool with which it is convenient and quick to draw the liquid solution from the container. Some people find it more convenient to apply the composition onto a surface with a small spatula.

Leveling walls under wallpaper with your own hands using putty is quite easy to do; even those who are doing it for the first time can cope with it. The main thing is to do everything very carefully, do not be lazy to remove small excess material before it dries.

In many cases, several layers will be needed, the first of which is called the starting layer. A special mesh is required between the layers to prevent small cracks from appearing in the future.

The starting and finishing layers should be positioned perpendicular to better perform the plane leveling technology.

The last layer should be quite thin. It is finally washed away with a primer. After the final completion of the work being performed and the product has completely dried, it is necessary to go over the putty areas with sandpaper suitable for this task.

After the putty composition has completely dried, another layer of primer must be applied to the wall.

Plaster

How to level walls for wallpaper using plaster? The question arises for many novice craftsmen and those who are starting repairs for the first time. This material is used in construction and finishing works interior spaces has been used for quite a long time. This is a universal way to get rid of defects on almost all surfaces of premises.

Working with plaster is a little more difficult and takes longer, but the result will be better than if you simply level the walls with putty.

For brick it is better to use mixtures based on sand and cement, for concrete - gypsum, for wood - gypsum and lime, cement and clay. The technology for preparing a wall before application consists of several stages:

Clean the desired surface from dust.
Prime.

If the wall is uneven and has a number of significant flaws, you should first apply a plaster mesh to the wall, and then a base layer of plaster, which is approximately five millimeters. After drying, you need to apply a base layer of 6-7 mm.

The finishing layer is applied thinly and only after the previous two have dried. It is needed to ensure that even the slightest defects do not remain on the finished leveled surface.

After completing all the work, you need to sand the walls well to give them an even smoother and even surface. In order to avoid having to redo everything all over again, you need to perform all stages efficiently from the very beginning.

How to properly level walls using plaster? Professional craftsmen who have been involved in all stages of renovation of premises for many years will help you figure this out.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Before pasting curves and not smooth walls It is recommended to use drywall for wallpaper. The material consists of individual sheets that are quickly and easily installed.

The coating allows short time improve the quality of the walls, but visually reduces living space rooms, and if the room is already small, then this will be very noticeable.

The method is widely used in buildings or structures that were built a long time ago, where there is no point in using other materials due to high consumption. This significantly affects the financial side of the work being carried out.

The product is environmentally friendly, suitable for apartments or houses where people with allergies or asthmatics live. It is allowed to be used in children's rooms. It is used to significantly increase sound insulation and thermal insulation. It is usually used in bedrooms where an increased level of comfort and peace is needed.

For bathrooms or rooms with high humidity It is recommended to choose moisture-resistant drywall, which has a greenish tint.

If the wall level does not coincide by 70 mm, then before installation you should make a frame from special profiles. Mount the material already on this system. If the defects are not very large, then you can attach it directly to the plane of the wall using special glue. It is applied to the sheets every 30 cm, along the perimeter. Fastening to the frame occurs using ordinary self-tapping screws.

During installation, it is mandatory to note where exactly the sockets and light switches are located. The material is easy to cut and does not require specialized equipment.

After installing the drywall, you need to very carefully putty the seams between the sheets.

With the help of this product it is possible to give the room not only the effect of smooth walls, but also to different kinds design ideas.

Conclusion

What is the best way to level and how to level the walls in an apartment, everyone decides for himself, but at the same time, be sure to look at the quality of the original plane, as well as the characteristics of the purchased product.

Is it even necessary to level the walls for wallpaper? If this is not done before pasting, then everything will need to be redone later, since subtle defects will become visible. In this case, nothing can correct them.

The entire result of the final appearance of the repaired room depends on the quality of the material used and on the implementation of the leveling technology. The most quick option for curved walls there will be plasterboard, which you can easily install yourself.