How to save money and make a lamp from LED strip with your own hands. How to make a lamp from LED strip with your own hands LED lamp lamp with your own hands

Gradually, lighting devices are switching to LED lamps. This did not happen immediately; there was a protracted transition period with the use of so-called housekeepers - compact gas-discharge light bulbs with a built-in power supply (driver) and a standard E27 or E14 socket.

Such lamps are still widely used today, since their cost in comparison with LED light sources is not so “biting”.
While there is a good balance between price and efficiency (the difference in price with conventional incandescent lamps pays off over time due to energy savings), gas-discharge light sources have a number of disadvantages:

  • Service life is lower than that of incandescent lamps.
  • High frequency noise from the power supply.
  • Lamps do not like frequent switching on and off.
  • Gradual decrease in brightness.
  • Impact on nearby surfaces: a dark spot appears on the surface of the ceiling (above the lamp) over time.
  • And in general, I don’t really want to have a flask with a certain amount of mercury in my house.
    An excellent alternative is LED lamps. The list of advantages is significant:
  • Amazing efficiency (up to 10 times compared to incandescent lamps).
  • Huge service life.
  • Perfect and safe power supplies (drivers).
  • Absolutely independent of the number of inclusions.
  • With normal cooling, they do not lose brightness for almost the entire period of operation.
  • Complete mechanical safety (even if the decorative diffuser is broken, no harmful substances will enter the room).
Two disadvantages:
  • The direction of the light flux places high demands on the design of the diffuser.
  • Still, they are expensive (we are talking about high-quality brands, nameless mid-level products are quite affordable).
If the price issue is regulated by the selection of the manufacturer, then the design features do not always allow you to simply replace the lamp in your favorite chandelier. Of course, there is a wide selection of classic pear-shaped LED lamps that fit any size.
But it is precisely in this design that the “ambush” lies.


We have before us a high-quality (at the same time relatively inexpensive) lamp with a brightness of 1000 Lm (equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp) and a power consumption of 13 W. These LED light sources have been working for me for many years, they shine with a pleasant warm light (temperature 2700 K), and no degradation of brightness is observed over time.
But for powerful light, serious cooling is required. Therefore, 2/3 of the body of this lamp consists of a radiator. It is plastic, does not spoil the appearance, and is quite effective. The main drawback follows from the design - the real light source is the hemisphere at the top of the lamp. This makes it difficult to select a lamp - not every horn chandelier will have such a lamp look harmonious.
There is only one way out - to buy ready-made LED lamps, the configuration of which was initially designed for specific light sources.
The key word is buy. What should you do with your favorite floor lamps, chandeliers and other lamps in your apartment?

Therefore, it was decided to design LED lamps ourselves.

The main criterion is cost minimization.
There are two main directions in the development of LED light sources:
1. Use of low-power (up to 0.5 W) LEDs. You need a lot of them, you can configure any shape. No need for a powerful radiator (they heat up little). A significant drawback is more painstaking assembly.
2. Use of powerful (1 W - 5 W) LED elements. Efficiency is high, labor costs are several times less. But point radiation requires the selection of a diffuser, and good radiators are needed to implement the project.
For experimental designs, I chose the first option. The most inexpensive “raw materials”: ​​5 mm LEDs with a dispersion of 120° in a transparent housing. They are called "straw hats".


The characteristics are as follows:
  • forward current = 20 mA (0.02 A)
  • voltage drop across 1 diode = 3.2-3.4 volts
  • color – warm white
Such goodness is sold for 3 rubles a bunch on any radio market.
I bought several packs 100 pcs. on aliexpress(link to purchase). It cost a little less than 1 rub. a piece.


As power supplies (more precisely, current sources), I decided to use a proven circuit with a quenching (ballast) capacitor. The advantages of such a driver are extreme low cost and minimal energy consumption. Since there is no PWM controller or linear current stabilizer, excess energy does not go into the atmosphere: in this circuit there are no elements with a heat-dissipating radiator.
Disadvantage: lack of current stabilization. That is, if the mains voltage is unstable, the brightness of the glow will change. My outlet has exactly 220 (+/- 2 volts), so this circuit is just right.
The element base is also not expensive.

  • diode bridges of the KTs405A series (any diodes can be used, even Schottky ones)
  • film capacitors with a voltage of 630 volts (with a reserve)
  • 1-2 watt resistors
  • electrolytic capacitors 47 mF at 400 volts (you can take a larger capacity, but this goes beyond the scope of economy)
  • little things like a breadboard and fuses are usually in the arsenal of any radio amateur
In order not to invent a housing with an E27 cartridge, we use burnt-out (another reason to abandon them) housekeepers.


After carefully (on the street!) removing the flask with mercury vapor, you are left with an excellent workpiece for creativity.

The basis of the basics is the calculation and principle of operation of a current driver with a quenching capacitor

A typical diagram is shown in the illustration:

How the scheme works:

Resistor R1 limits the current surge when power is applied until the circuit stabilizes (about 1 second). Value from 50 to 150 Ohm. Power 2 W.
Resistor R2 ensures the operation of the ballast capacitor. Firstly, it discharges it when the power is turned off. At a minimum, to prevent you from being shocked when unscrewing the light bulb. The second task is to prevent a current surge in the case when the polarity of the charged capacitor and the first half-wave of 220 volts do not coincide.
Actually, the damping capacitor C1 is the basis of the circuit. It is a kind of current filter. By selecting the capacitance, you can set any current in the circuit. For our diodes it should not exceed 20 mA at peak mains voltage.
Next, the diode bridge works (after all, LEDs are elements with polarity).
Electrolytic capacitor C2 is needed to prevent the lamp from flickering. LEDs have no inertia when turned on and off. Therefore, the eye will see a flicker with a frequency of 50 Hz. By the way, cheap Chinese lamps are guilty of this. The quality of the capacitor is checked using any digital camera, even a smartphone. Looking at the burning diodes through a digital matrix, you can see blinking, indistinguishable to the human eye.
In addition, this electrolyte provides an unexpected bonus: the lamps do not turn off immediately, but with a noble slow attenuation until the capacity is discharged.
The quenching capacitor is calculated using the formula:
I = 200*C*(1.41*U network - U led)
I – resulting circuit current in amperes
200 is a constant (mains frequency 50Hz * 4)
1.41 – constant
C – capacitance of capacitor C1 (quenching) in farads
U network - estimated network voltage (ideally 220 volts)
U led – total voltage drop across the LEDs (in our case – 3.3 volts, multiplied by the number of LED elements)
By selecting the number of LEDs (with a known voltage drop) and the capacity of the quenching capacitor, it is necessary to achieve the required current. It should not be higher than specified in the characteristics of the LEDs. It is the strength of the current that you regulate the brightness of the glow, and inversely proportional to the lifespan of the LEDs.
For convenience, you can create a formula in Excel.


The circuit has been tested several times, the first copy was assembled almost 3 years ago, it works in a kitchen lamp, there have been no malfunctions.
Let's move on to the practical implementation of projects. There is no point in discussing the number of LED elements and capacitor capacity in individual circuits: the projects are individual for each lamp. Calculated strictly according to the formula. The above circuit for 60 LEDs with a 68 microfarad capacitor is not just an example, but a real calculation for a current in the circuit of 15 mA (to extend the life of the lights).

LED lamp in a chandelier

We use the gutted cartridge from the housekeeper as a housing for the circuit and supporting structure. In this project I did not use a breadboard; I assembled the driver on a 1 mm thick PVC roundel. It turned out to be just the right size. Two capacitors - due to the selection of capacitance: the required number of microfarads was not found in one element.


A yogurt jar was used as a housing to house the LED elements. In the design I also used scraps of 3 mm foamed PVC sheets.


After assembly it turned out neat and even beautiful. This arrangement of the socket is associated with the shape of the chandelier: the horns are directed upward, towards the ceiling.



Next we place the LEDs: according to the scheme, 150 pcs. We pierce the plastic with an awl, labor costs: one full evening.



Looking ahead, I will say: the material of the case did not justify itself, it is too thin. The next lamp was made from 1 mm PVC sheet. To give it a shape, I calculated the cone scan for the same 150 diodes.


It turned out not so elegant, but reliable, and holds its shape perfectly. The lamp is completely hidden in the chandelier arm, so appearance is not so important.



Actually, installation.


It shines evenly and doesn’t hurt your eyes.


I didn’t measure the lumens, but it felt brighter than a 40 W incandescent lamp, a little weaker than 60 W.


LED lamp in a flat ceiling lamp for the kitchen


An ideal donor for such a project. All LEDs will be located in the same plane.


We draw a template and cut out a matrix to accommodate the LED elements. With this diameter, a flat PVC sheet will be deformed. So I used the bottom of a plastic bucket of construction mixtures. There is a stiffening rib along the outer contour.


The diodes are installed using the usual awl: 2 holes according to the markings.

Economical lighting lamps are already found in almost every home. We offer you to consider how to make an LED lamp with your own hands, what materials will be required for this, as well as tips on what criteria should be used to select them.

Step-by-step development of an LED lamp

Initially, we are faced with the task of checking the performance of the LEDs and measuring the supply voltage of the network. When setting up this device to prevent electric shock, we suggest using a 220/220 V isolation transformer. This will also ensure safer measurements when setting up our future LED lamp.

Please note that if any elements of the circuit are connected incorrectly, an explosion is possible, so strictly follow the instructions given below.

Most often, the problem of improper assembly lies precisely in poor-quality soldering of components.

When making calculations to measure the voltage drop in the current consumption of LEDs, you need to use a universal measuring multimeter. Basically, such homemade LED lamps are used at a voltage of 12 V, but our design will be designed for a mains voltage of 220 V AC.

Video: LED lamp at home

High light output is achieved with diodes at a current of 20-25 mA. But cheap LEDs can produce an unpleasant bluish glow, which is also very harmful to the eyes, so we recommend diluting your homemade LED lamp with a small amount of red LEDs. For 10 cheap white ones, 4 red LEDs will be enough.

The circuit is quite simple and is designed to power LEDs directly from the network, without an additional power supply. The only drawback of such a circuit is that all its components are not isolated from the mains supply and the LED lamp will not provide protection against possible electric shock. So be careful when assembling and installing this light. Although in the future the circuit can be upgraded and isolated from the network.

Simplified lamp diagram
  1. When turned on, a 100 ohm resistor protects the circuit from voltage surges; if it is not there, you need to use a higher power diode bridge rectifier.
  2. The 400 nF capacitor limits the current required for the LEDs to glow normally. If necessary, you can add more LEDs if their total current consumption does not exceed the limit set by the capacitor.
  3. Make sure that the capacitor used is designed for an operating voltage of at least 350 V, it should be one and a half times the mains voltage.
  4. A 10uF capacitor is needed to provide a stable, flicker-free light source. Its rated voltage should be twice that measured across all LEDs connected in series during operation.

In the photo you see a burnt out lamp, which will soon be disassembled for a DIY LED lamp.


We disassemble the lamp, but very carefully so as not to damage the base, then clean it and degrease it with alcohol or acetone. We pay special attention to the hole. We clean it of excess solder and process it again. This is necessary for high-quality soldering of components in the base.


Photo: lamp socket
Photo: resistors and transistor

Now we need to solder a tiny rectifier, we use a regular soldering iron for these purposes and have already prepared a diode bridge in advance and process the surface, working very carefully so as not to damage the previously installed parts.


Photo: soldering the rectifier

As an insulating layer, it is fashionable to use the glue of a simple hot-melt assembly gun. A PVC tube is also suitable, but it is advisable to use a material specially designed for this purpose, filling all the space between the parts and at the same time fixing them. We have a ready-made basis for the future lamp.


Photo: glue and cartridge

After these manipulations, we proceed to the most interesting part: installing LEDs. We use a special circuit board as a basis; it can be bought at any electronic components store or even taken from some old and unnecessary equipment, having first cleared the board of unnecessary parts.


Photo: LEDs on the board

It is very important to check each of our boards for functionality, because otherwise all the work is in vain. We pay special attention to the contacts of the LEDs; if necessary, we further clean and narrow them.

Now we are assembling the constructor, we need to solder all the boards, we have four of them, to the capacitor. After this operation, we again insulate everything with glue and check the connections of the diodes to each other. We place the boards at the same distance from each other so that the light spreads evenly.


LED connection

We also solder a 10 uF capacitor without additional wires; this is a good soldering experience for future electricians.


Finished mini lamp Resistor and lamp

All is ready. We recommend covering our lamp with a lampshade, because... LEDs emit extremely bright light that is very hard on the eyes. If you place our homemade lamp in a “cut” made of paper, for example, or fabric, you will get a very soft light, a romantic night light or a sconce for the nursery. By replacing the soft lampshade with a standard glass one, we get a fairly bright glow that does not irritate the eyes. This is a good and very beautiful option for a home or cottage.

If you want to power the lamp using batteries or from USB, you need to exclude the 400 nF capacitor and rectifier from the circuit, connecting the circuit directly to a 5-12 V DC source.

This is a good device for illuminating an aquarium, but you need to choose a special waterproof lamp; you can find it by visiting any store of electromechanical devices; these exist in any city, be it Chelyabinsk or Moscow.


Photo: lamp in action

Lamp for the office

You can make a creative wall, table lamp or floor lamp for your office using several dozen LEDs. But for this, the flow of light will be insufficient for reading; here you need a sufficient level of illumination of the workplace.

First you need to determine the number of LEDs and rated power.

After that, find out the load capacity of the rectifying diode bridge and capacitor. We connect a group of LEDs to the negative contact of the diode bridge. We connect all the LEDs as shown in the figure.


Diagram: connecting lamps

Solder all 60 LEDs together. If you need to connect additional LEDs, just continue to solder them sequentially, plus to minus. Use wires to connect the negative of one group of LEDs to the next until the entire assembly process is completed. Now add a diode bridge. Connect it as shown in the picture below. Connect the positive terminal to the positive wire of the first group of LEDs, connect the negative terminal to the common wire of the last LED in the group.


Short LED wires

Next, you need to prepare the base of the old light bulb by cutting off the wires from the board and soldering them to the AC inputs on the diode bridge, marked with the ~ sign. You can use plastic fasteners, screws and nuts to connect the two boards together if all the diodes are placed on separate boards. Don’t forget to fill the boards with glue, insulating them from short circuits. This is a fairly powerful network LED lamp that will last up to 100,000 hours of continuous operation.

Adding a capacitor

If you increase the supply voltage to the LEDs in order to make the light brighter, the LEDs will begin to heat up, which significantly reduces their durability. In order to avoid this, you need to connect a 10 W recessed or table lamp with an additional capacitor. Simply connect one side of the base to the negative output of the bridge rectifier and the positive side, through an additional capacitor, to the positive output of the rectifier. You can use 40 LEDs instead of the suggested 60, thereby increasing the overall brightness of the lamp.

Video: how to make an LED lamp with your own hands

If desired, a similar lamp can be made using a powerful LED, but then you will need capacitors of a different value.

As you can see, assembling or repairing a conventional DIY LED lamp is not particularly difficult. And it won't take much time and effort. This lamp is also suitable as a summer option, for example for a greenhouse; its light is absolutely harmless to plants.

In this article we will inspire you with various ideas for creating lamps with your own hands. And most importantly, we will offer light sources that can be easily and conveniently designed into the most unusual design solutions. You won't need to think about where to find LEDs, a platform for gluing them, soldering wires and other technical things. We have already thought for you and are freeing up your time for imagination and bright ideas for decorating a lamp!

They realize incredible ideas with their own hands from wood, metal, fabric, paper, plastic or thread. An example of creating a lamp from plastic cups:

DIY floor lamp made from paper cups and garlands.

DIY table LED lamp made of cardboard. There is a LED light bulb hidden inside.

DIY antique ceiling lamp.

DIY LED wall lamp made of paper (origami).

LED wall lamp made of plywood.

The use of decorative homemade lamps

Homemade lamps perfectly serve as decorative lighting. They are rarely used for main lighting. For manufacturing, materials that do not transmit light well are used, and light sources are limited in size or power. To avoid damage to the structure, it is recommended to use low-heat LED lamps or strips as a light source, which, unlike incandescent lamps, do not pose a fire risk.

Homemade lamps as main lighting

Homemade lamps are increasingly used as main lighting thanks to technologically advanced, powerful and safe light sources.

Homemade lamp based on Armstrong 595x595 LED lamp.

LED lamp for main lighting.

DIY ceiling lamp made of paper. safe as a light source in this design,because it doesn't heat up.

How to make an LED lamp with your own hands?

Homemade LED lamp based on the Armstrong 600x600 LED panel.

Steel is a powerful alternative for making lamps with your own hands from improvised materials. A variety of sizes and shapes allows you to create floor, wall, ceiling or pendant lamps of unusual design and high power. Used to repair an old lamp or to develop your own unique lighting design.

for repairing and replacing an old lamp or creating a new lamp with your own hands.

LED module with light temperature adjustment and remote control.

The driver and all the necessary electronics are already built into the . Unlike LED strips, the matrix (module) is connected directly to a 220 volt network. The OPPLE LED module is compact in size, has clever cooling, and each LED on it is equipped with its own lens for the most uniform distribution of light.

Lens on each LED for the most even distribution of light.

A small 12 W module (analogous to 95 W) is suitable for homemade decorative lamps:

Decorative LED lamp made of antique wood.

DIY pendant lamp made of paper (origami kusudama).

For the brightest solutions, designed (600 W analogue) with a remote control, brightness adjustment (built-in dimmer) and variable light temperature from warm light (3000 K) to cold light (6000 K).

How to make a bright LED lamp from scrap materials with a remote control, adjustable brightness and light temperature from warm to cold.

It became possible to make original lamps technologically advanced and even more unusual thanks to various light settings. Now you can play with the temperature of the light (from yellow to white) and adjust the brightness of the light.

It is important that OPPLE LED modules have a well-thought-out cooling system and they hardly heat up. This makes it possible to create design solutions from your favorite materials: lamps made of wood, pendant lamps made of paper, wall lamps made of plywood, floor lamps made of scrap materials. Now it’s easier than ever to create homemade LED lamps with your own hands.

DIY table lamp (night light) made of wood (plywood).

Homemade LED (LED) lamp made of paper.

DIY ceiling pendant lamp in loft style.

If you are interested in how to make an LED lamp with your own hands at home, then we will provide several step-by-step instructions with photo and video examples that will allow you to assemble an LED lamp in no more than an hour. All the ideas provided below will be listed from the simplest to the most complex, which will allow you to choose the appropriate option depending on your skills in handling a soldering iron and electrical circuits.

Idea No. 1 – Upgrading a halogen light bulb

The easiest way is to make an LED lamp yourself from a burnt-out halogen light bulb with -GU4. In this case, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • LEDs. Choose their number yourself depending on how bright the LED lighting should be. We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you should not choose more than 22 diodes (this will complicate the assembly process and also make the light bulb too bright).
  • Super glue (regular glue will do, but it will take longer to harden, which will not allow you to make an LED lamp quickly).
  • A small piece of copper wire.
  • Resistors. Their number and power will be calculated by an online calculator.
  • A small piece of sheet aluminum (an alternative is a regular beer or carbonated drink can).
  • Internet access. You will need to open a special online calculator to calculate the LED lamp circuit.
  • Hammer, soldering iron and hole punch.

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed directly to assembling the diode light bulb. We will provide instructions for creating a homemade one step by step, with photo examples of each stage, so that you can clearly see the installation process.

So, to make a 12 volt LED lamp, you need to follow these steps:

  1. Remove the top glass from the old halogen light bulb, as well as the white putty near the pin base (as shown in the photo below). The best way to do this is to use a screwdriver.
  2. Turn the lamp upside down and carefully use a hammer to knock the pins out of their seats. The old halogen bulb should fall out.
  3. According to the number of LEDs you have chosen, come up with a diagram of their location, based on which make a paper stencil. You can use an existing blank and print one of the ready-made diagrams shown in the picture:
  4. Glue the stencil to a sheet of aluminum using super glue, cut the sheet to the shape of the stencil, then use a hole punch to make seats for the LEDs.
  5. Generate an LED lamp assembly drawing on the Internet for your conditions. In our case, to create an LED light bulb at home from 22 diodes, you need to assemble the following circuit:
  6. Place the aluminum disk on a convenient stand and insert the LEDs into the seats, as shown in the photo. To simplify the soldering process, bend the cathode leg of one diode to the anode leg of the other.
  7. Carefully glue all the LEDs, making them a single structure. An important point is that the glue should not get on the legs of the diodes, because When soldering, extremely unpleasant smoke will be released.
  8. Once the glue has hardened, start soldering the legs. By the way, we recommend that you do this, which also won’t take much time. According to the diagram, solder the diodes of the LED lamp, leaving only one positive leg and one negative leg for connecting power. It is recommended to cut the “-” leg in half so as not to subsequently confuse the polarity of the contacts of a homemade LED light bulb.

  9. According to the diagram, solder resistors to the negative contacts. As a result, according to our example, there should be 6 positive terminals and 6 negative terminals (with resistors).
  10. Solder the resistors according to the generated circuit.
  11. Solder an identical piece of copper wire to the resulting two contacts, which will result in making a pin base for an LED lamp at home. By analogy with the previous advice, temporarily make one leg shorter (negative) so that you don’t confuse anything later and make the connection correctly.

  12. To prevent this from happening in the future, carefully glue the space between the removed legs.
  13. Complete the final assembly of the LED light bulb: place the disk on the reflector and carefully glue it.
  14. Use a marker to sign where “+” and where “-” on the body of the assembled LED lamp; also indicate that the homemade light source is designed to be connected to a 12 Volt power supply, not 220.

  15. Check the assembled homemade product. To do this, connect the LED light bulb to a car battery or 220/12 Volt power supply.

In this simple way you can make an LED lamp with your own hands using improvised materials. As you can see, there is nothing complicated and you don’t need to spend much time on assembly! We recommend that you check out some of the best ideas for creating a light bulb at home, which we have provided in the video gallery:

Idea No. 2 – “Housekeeper” in action!

The second, no less interesting idea is to assemble a light bulb from an energy-saving lamp. There is also no particularly serious work involved, and even a not very experienced electrician can handle the assembly.
To begin, you must prepare the following materials and tools to assemble an LED lamp with your own hands:


Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to assembly. This instruction is more creative, so if you decide to make a diode light bulb from a burnt housekeeper, carefully look at the photo examples.

Stages of work:


Using these instructions, you can easily make an LED lamp from a fluorescent or halogen light bulb!

Idea No. 3 – LED strip as a basis

If you are not so good with a soldering iron and at the same time have no idea how to assemble a circuit on fiberglass, it is better to make an LED lamp with your own hands from LED strip. In this case, instead of a driver, you can use a power supply that converts 220 Volts in the network into 12. The only significant drawback of this method is the large dimensions of the power supply, so this option is recommended if you decide to use LED spotlights in the room. You can try to assemble all the light bulbs for them with your own hands and connect them to a single power supply, which can be hidden in the ceiling without any problems.

So all you need to do is:


That's all the instructions for assembling an LED lamp from strip. As you can see, everything is much simpler than even making a light bulb according to the generated diagram. This is where our simple instructions end, and now you know how to make an LED lamp with your own hands from an energy-saving light bulb, diode strip and a halogen light source! We hope that the ideas provided were useful and understandable for you!

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Let's look at how to make an LED lamp with your own hands. The main materials and elements for self-manufacturing an LED lamp are presented:

  • output type LEDs;
  • power source in the form of a current driver without a housing with galvanic isolation;
  • aluminum, heat-dissipating radiator in the form of a U-shaped building profile;
  • thermally conductive double-sided tape.

It is advisable to use a metal structure as a housing, since semiconductors, represented by diodes, can heat up significantly under the influence of electric current.

It is best to use a 12W LED diode driver with an input voltage level of 100-240V and an output voltage of 18-46V.

The main stages of making an LED lamp yourself are as follows:

  • insert a resistor and a pair of capacitors into the base;
  • solder a small rectifier;
  • treat the surface;
  • create an insulating layer using a polymer tube;
  • inspect the LED contacts and check their functionality;
  • assemble the structure by soldering the boards onto the capacitor;
  • perform final insulation with adhesive;
  • check the diode connection;
  • solder the capacitor and resistor.

At the final stage, all contacts are insulated with adhesive. A lighting structure that is completely ready for use can be left in its original state or covered with a lampshade, which will significantly soften the glow of the lamp.

To independently create a powerful diode lamp based on several dozen LEDs at once, you will need to complete the activities presented:

  • determining the number of diodes;
  • determination of rated power;
  • connecting LEDs to the negative contact of the diode bridge;
  • soldering all diodes “plus to minus”;
  • combining all groups with wires;
  • adding a diode bridge.

The positive terminal is connected to the positive wire on the first group, and the negative terminal is connected to the common wire on the last diode of the group. Then the base part is prepared, and the wires are soldered to the AC voltage inputs of the diode bridge.

  1. LEDs: purpose, device and principle of operation
  2. Assembly of luminaires in a housing with LED strips
  3. Lamps made from energy-saving lamps
  4. Video

In modern conditions, the cost of electricity is constantly increasing, so LED light sources are becoming increasingly popular among consumers. They perfectly replace natural light and save money. However, a significant disadvantage of these lighting devices is their high cost.

The popularity of LED lamps is so high that craftsmen have not ignored it. On the Internet today you can find a huge number of diagrams with which you can answer the question of how to make an LED lamp with your own hands? And as practice has shown, the simplest option of all is to use an LED strip in the lamp.

Of course, the tape is most often used for decorative lighting, but if you correctly calculate the brightness of the lighting and the number of LEDs, then you can make a good lamp for zone lighting from it. For example, for the desktop. Therefore, we will consider one of the options, which seemed not very difficult to us.

DIY LED lamp circuit

To do this you will need a faulty fluorescent light fixture. As practice shows, most often the electronic ballast, or in short, the electronic ballast, fails. So, constantly changing electronic ballasts for a new one won’t save you money. Therefore, from this light source you can easily make a lamp on an LED strip.

Four types of LED devices

LEDs are semiconductor electronic devices that emit light as a result of the passage of electric current. Appearing 15 years ago, home appliances literally immediately conquered the light source market. Today you can buy LED lamps of any shape, size, power and color. But you can also make them yourself, which even an inexperienced radio amateur can do.

Before we start making an LED lamp with our own hands, let’s consider its design and operating principle. A diode is a semiconductor device that passes current through a pn junction in only one direction. As a result of the release of energy during the recombination of electrons and holes, photons are emitted with the release of light and thermal energy.

The simplest heatsink is an aluminum substrate on which the LEDs are located, however, such heat removal will not be enough if the device is assembled on 3 or more semiconductors. Special metal radiators are installed in such lamps. In indoor appliances it is replaced by the body of the light bulb.

An economical version of an LED lamp can be made with your own hands using a burnt-out lamp. To do this, it is necessary to carefully disassemble the burnt-out lamp without damaging the base and clean and degrease it. In the base we place a protective resistor of 100 Ohms and two capacitors of 220 nF each, the operating voltage of which is 400 V, a capacitor of 10 μF, which is responsible for the absence of flicker , rectifier (diode bridge) and LEDs in a ratio of 1 (red) to 3 (white). We connect the components of the circuit by soldering and insulate them with mounting adhesive, filling the entire space of the base between the parts of the circuit and securing them.

In addition to a regular lamp, a halogen lamp is used to create an LED lamp with your own hands.

Halogen lamp

To assemble a lamp using a halogen lamp, the following components are required:

  • assembly diagram, which you can draw up yourself or take from the Internet;
  • LEDs;
  • non-working halogen lamp;
  • quick-drying glue;
  • copper wire;
  • soldering iron and solder;
  • aluminum substrate 0.2 mm thick, which will replace the radiator;
  • resistors;
  • hole puncher.

Let's look at the step-by-step creation of a 220 V light source from an LED strip. To decide to use an innovation in the kitchen, it is enough to remember that LED lamps assembled by yourself are significantly more profitable than their fluorescent counterparts. They live 10 times longer and consume 2–3 times less energy at the same lighting level.

  1. For construction you will need two burnt out fluorescent lamps half a meter long and 13 watts in power. There is no point in buying new ones; it is better to find old ones that are not working, but not broken and without cracks.
  2. Next, we go to the store and buy an LED strip. There is a large selection, so please purchase responsibly. It is advisable to buy tapes with pure white or natural light; it does not change the shades of surrounding objects. In such strips, LEDs are collected in groups of 3 pieces. The voltage of one group is 12 volts, and the power is 14 watts per meter strip.
  3. Then you need to disassemble the fluorescent lamps into their component parts. Carefully! Do not damage the wires or break the tube, otherwise toxic fumes will escape and you will have to clean up, like after a broken mercury thermometer. Do not throw away the removed entrails; they will be useful in the future.
    Below is a diagram of the LED strip we purchased. In it, LEDs are connected in parallel, 3 pieces in a group. Please note that this scheme does not suit us.
    Below is a diagram of the LED strip we purchased. In it, LEDs are connected in parallel, 3 pieces in a group. Please note that this scheme does not suit us.
  4. Therefore, you need to cut the tape into sections of 3 diodes each and get expensive and useless converters. It is more convenient to cut the tape with wire cutters or large and strong scissors. After soldering the wires, you should get the diagram below.
    The result should be 66 LEDs or 22 groups of 3 LEDs each, connected in parallel along the entire length. The calculations are simple. Since we need to convert alternating current into direct current, the standard voltage of 220 Volts in the electrical network needs to be increased to 250. The need to “throw up” the voltage is associated with the rectification process.
  5. To find out the number of LED sections, you need to divide 250 Volts by 12 Volts (voltage for one group of 3 pieces). As a result, we get 20.8(3), rounding up, we get 21 groups. Here it is advisable to add another group, since the total number of LEDs will have to be divided into 2 lamps, and for this you need an even number. In addition, by adding another section, we will make the overall scheme safer.
  6. We will need a DC rectifier, which is why we cannot throw away the removed insides of the fluorescent lamp. To do this, we take out the converter and, using wire cutters, remove the capacitor from the common circuit. This is quite simple to do, since it is located separately from the diodes, you just need to break off the board.
    The diagram shows what the end result should be, in more detail.
    The diagram shows what the end result should be, in more detail.
  7. Next, using soldering and superglue, you need to assemble the entire structure. Don't even try to fit all 22 sections into one lamp. It was said above that you need to specifically find 2 half-meter lamps, since it is simply impossible to place all the LEDs in one. You also don't need to rely on the self-adhesive layer on the back of the tape. It will not last long, so the LEDs need to be secured with superglue or liquid nails.

Let's summarize and find out the advantages of the assembled product:

  • The amount of light from the resulting LED lamps is 1.5 times greater than that of their fluorescent counterparts.
  • The power consumption is much less than that of fluorescent lamps.
  • The assembled light source will last 5–10 times longer.
  • Finally, the last advantage is the direction of light. It does not dissipate and is directed straight down, so it is used near the desktop or in the kitchen.

Of course, the emitted light is not very bright, but the main advantage is the low power consumption of the lamp. Even if you turn it on and never turn it off, it will consume only 4 kW of energy in a year. At the same time, the cost of electricity consumed per year is comparable to the cost of a ticket on a city bus. Therefore, such light sources are especially effective to use where constant illumination is required (corridor, street, utility room).

Let's look at another way to create an LED lamp. A chandelier or table lamp needs a standard E14 or E27 base. Accordingly, the circuit and diodes used will differ. Compact fluorescent lamps are now widely used. We will need one burnt-out cartridge, and we will also change the general list of materials for assembly.

You will need:

  • burnt out E27 base;
  • driver RLD2-1;
  • NK6 LEDs;
  • a piece of cardboard, but better - plastic;
  • Super glue;
  • electrical wiring;
  • as well as scissors, soldering iron, pliers and other tools.

Let's start creating a homemade lamp:

  1. First you need to disassemble the old lamp. In compact fluorescent lamps, the base is attached to the plate with tubes using latches. If you find places with latches and pry them off with a screwdriver, the base will come off quite easily. When disassembling you need to be careful not to damage the tubes. If they burst, the toxic substances contained in them will come out. When opening, make sure that the electrical wiring leading to the base remains intact. Also, do not throw away the contents of the base.
  2. From the upper part with gas-discharge tubes you need to make a plate to which the LEDs will be attached. To do this, disconnect the light bulb tubes. The remaining plate has 6 holes. In order for the LEDs to be securely fastened in it, you need to make a plastic or cardboard “bottom”, which will also insulate the LEDs. We will use NK6 LEDs (photo below). Their advantage is that they are multi-crystal (6 crystals per diode) with parallel connection. Because of this, the light source is quite bright with minimal power.
    We will use NK6 LEDs (photo below). Their advantage is that they are multi-crystal (6 crystals per diode) with parallel connection. Because of this, the light source is quite bright with minimal power.
  3. We make 2 holes in the cover for each LED. Punch the holes carefully and evenly so that their location and intended pattern correspond to each other. If you use a piece of plastic as the “bottom,” the LEDs will be attached quite firmly, but if you use a piece of cardboard, you will need to glue the base with the LEDs using superglue or liquid nails.
  4. Since the light bulb will be used in a 220-volt network, you will need an RLD2-1 driver. You can connect 3 one-watt diodes to it. We have 6 LEDs with a power of 0.5 watts each. Therefore, the connection diagram will consist of two series-connected parts, each part contains 3 parallel-connected LEDs. Above is a diagram, but in reality the whole structure looks like this:
    Above is a diagram, but in reality the whole structure looks like this:
  5. Before assembly, you need to isolate the driver and the board from each other using a piece of cardboard or plastic. This will prevent short circuits in the future. There is no need to worry about overheating; the lamp practically does not heat up.
  6. All that remains is to assemble the structure and test it in action.

The luminous flux of the assembled lamp is 100–120 lumens. Pure white light makes the bulb appear significantly lighter. This is enough to illuminate a small room (corridor, utility room). The main advantage of the LED light source is low energy consumption and power - only 3 Watts. Which is 10 times less than incandescent lamps and 2–3 times less than fluorescent lamps. It operates from a conventional cartridge with 220 volt power.

Lamp assembly

The circuit of the simplest lamp operating from a 220 V network consists of two 12 kOhm resistors and two LEDs installed in parallel. The circuit is relevant for an even number of LED devices. For an odd number, the circuit must contain a driver that stabilizes the output current and voltage.

It is best to purchase a ready-made driver that is matched to the LED device. In addition, you can also make the driver yourself using a rectifier bridge, capacitors and ordinary diodes, which in the assembly convert the mains voltage into a voltage of a given frequency and value. Resistors in such a circuit act as a current limiter.

As can be seen from the above, an LED device can be assembled by anyone who has held a soldering iron at least once in their life and knows how to use the Internet, where many examples of standard and non-standard circuits and solutions for assembling an LED lamp are presented.

You can make the simplest lamp yourself using an LED strip, which you just need to attach to any flat surface using double-sided tape. For greater reliability and expanded functionality of the device, it is convenient to place the LED strip in the housing of a non-working fluorescent lamp, the length of which does not exceed 30 cm.

The following types of strips are suitable for the manufacture of LED lamps:

  • SMD 3528 (60 (4.8 W); 120 (7.2 W); 240 (16 W) LEDs per linear meter);
  • SMD 5050 (30 (7.2 W); 60 (14 W); 120 (25 W).

Density and arrangement of LEDs on SMD 3528 and SMD 5050 strips

The optimal choice would be the SMD 5050 LED strip, the parameters of which correspond to the following values:

  • radiation angle – 120 degrees;
  • supply voltage – 12 V;
  • current – ​​1.2 A/m

The LED strip must be glued to the inside of the case using tape. To work, you can buy a power supply or assemble it yourself using the diagram below. The advantage of a self-assembled power supply is that it is possible to hide it in the lamp housing.

A DIY lamp based on an LED strip is no different in its parameters from the purchased version. Moreover, its cost is significantly lower than the cost of the finished product.

  • We clean the halogen lamp from all components and putties.
  • We take it out of the reflector.
  • We prepare a reflector disk on which the LEDs will be located. We glue the disk onto an aluminum backing (a disk template can be found on the Internet) and make holes in it.
  • According to the diagram, we place the LEDs on the disk with their legs up, taking into account their polarity. We roll a little glue between them, avoiding getting it on the contacts.
  • We solder the LED contacts so that the chain begins with positive polarity (“”) and ends with negative (“-”).
  • The positive contacts are connected to each other by soldering.
  • We connect resistors to the negative contacts by soldering and connect their contacts to each other with solder, obtaining negatively charged resistors.
  • We also connect the contacts of the resistors to each other and solder copper wires to them. To avoid short circuits, fill the space between the contacts and wires with glue.
  • We glue the disk and the halogen reflector together.
  • After the glue has polymerized, you can connect a 12 V power source.

There are a lot of ways to create a lamp with your own hands. The most common methods are using an old base from a burnt-out fluorescent lamp. Everyone will have such a resource in their home, so there will be no problems finding it. In addition to this you will need:

  1. Base from a burnt-out product.
  2. Directly ICE. They are sold in the form of LED strips or individual NK6 LEDs. Each element has a current of approximately 100–120 mA and a voltage of approximately 3–3.3 Volts.
  3. You will need a diode bridge or 1N4007 rectifier diodes.
  4. You need a fuse, which can be found in the base of a blown lamp.
  5. Capacitor. Its capacity, voltage and other parameters are selected depending on the electrical circuit for the assembly and the number of LEDs in it.
  6. In most cases, you will need a frame on which the LEDs will be mounted. The frame can be made of plastic or similar material. The main requirement is that it must not be metallic, conductive, and must be heat-resistant.
  7. To securely attach the LEDs to the frame, you will need superglue or liquid nails (the latter is preferable).

One or two elements from the above list may not be useful in some schemes; in other cases, on the contrary, new chain links (drivers, electrolytes) may be added. Therefore, the list of necessary materials must be compiled individually in each specific case.

If an odd number of LEDs is used, a driver must be included in the circuit to stabilize the output current and voltage. It is recommended to purchase a ready-made product adapted for a specific lamp. Self-assembly of the driver is carried out using a rectifier bridge, capacitors and ordinary diodes used to convert the mains voltage into a voltage with the desired value and frequency. The role of resistors in this circuit is to limit the current.

One of the simplest lamp options is an LED strip, which is attached to any flat surface with double-sided tape. The basis can be non-working lamps, provided that their dimensions coincide with the dimensions of the strip. When all the preparatory work is completed, you can begin making LED lamps with your own hands.

After fastening, the entire working part is connected to the power supply, which can be purchased ready-made or assembled with your own hands. In the latter case, the assembled unit can be placed inside the lamp housing, while the finished power supply is installed only next to the lamp. In both cases, the assembled lighting device will be neat and economical, providing normal illumination of the working surface. During assembly, special attention should be paid to the quality of insulation of all conductive parts.

  • Firstly, it should be noted that an LED strip is, in fact, a flexible plateau on which LEDs and resistors (current-limiting) are installed.
  • Secondly, pay attention to its technical characteristics, especially regarding the brightness of the diodes. Optimal option: 780-900 Lm/m.
  • Thirdly, adjusting the tape itself to the size of the lamp is not a problem. It is trimmed according to the areas marked on it. You can't cut in other places.
  • Fourthly, there is an adhesive layer on the back of the tape, so it will be easy to attach it to the surface of the lamp.

Place for cutting LED strip

First of all, it is necessary to remove the electronic ballast plate from the lamp. Then pieces of LED strip are glued onto it. In this case, the number of glued rows can be different, for example, six rows of three diodes each with a transverse installation. Installation variations can be different, the main thing is to accurately maintain the power of the required glow.

power unit

It is necessary to dwell on this element of the new lamp in more detail, because the LED strip on the power supply of a fluorescent lamp will not work. The thing is that the LED strip requires stabilization of voltage and current. If this is not done, the diodes will overheat and eventually simply burn out.

In our case, the best option is a power supply without a transformer, but with a ballast capacitor. Here is a diagram of the power supply from below.

Power supply with ballast capacitor

In this circuit, C1 is the same ballast capacitor that extinguishes the mains voltage of 220 volts. After it, the current is supplied to the diode rectifier VD1-VD4. After this, a constant voltage is applied to filter C2. To ensure that the capacitors discharge quickly, two resistors R2 for C1, R3 for C2 are installed in the circuit.

The most important element in this electrical network is capacitor C1. Here it is important to accurately select it according to the required capacity parameters. You should not use complex formulas for this. Just find a calculator on the Internet that will help you accurately calculate. True, for this you will need one introductory information: the current strength on a piece of LED strip. This is usually indicated in the product passport.

But keep in mind that the accompanying documents indicate the maximum current parameter, so you should not take it as the main one. For example, a current of 150 mA will be normal for a new lamp 30 cm long. In this case, the LEDs will not heat up, and the brightness of the glow will be sufficient.

Power supply for LED strip

Try entering our data into the calculator, you will get an indicator of the capacitance of the capacitor - 2.08 μF. We round it up to the standard - 2.2 µF, which will withstand voltages up to 400 volts.

Attention! The power supply assembled according to this scheme is transformerless. Therefore, the entire circuit must be installed in a special housing that does not allow electric current to pass through, for example, a plastic one. Plus, it is recommended to strictly adhere to all safety regulations. Do not come into contact with live parts of the unit while the lamp is operating.

There is no need to throw away electronic ballasts that constantly fail. It needs to be checked for serviceability. It is important here that the diode bridge is intact; all other parts can be removed.

  • Incandescent lamp sockets.
  • Housings from burnt-out energy-saving or halogen lamps.
  • Handmade devices.

LED lamp from a burnt out lamp

The old burnt-out device is carefully disassembled so that the base remains intact. After this, it needs to be cleaned and degreased. The circuit, located inside the base, consists of two 100 ohm protective resistors, two 220 nF capacitors with an operating voltage of 400 volts, and one 10 μF capacitor that neutralizes flicker.

Advantages of a homemade lamp

You can find many types of lamps in the store. Each type has its own disadvantages and advantages. Incandescent lamps are gradually losing their position due to high energy consumption, low light output, despite a high color rendering index. Compared to them, fluorescent light sources are a real miracle.

But fluorescent lamps also have disadvantages. They quickly fail due to frequent switching on and off; moreover, the vapors contained in the tubes are poisonous, and the design itself requires special disposal. Compared to them, the light-emitting diode (LED) lamp is the second revolution in lighting. They are even more economical, do not require special disposal and last 5–10 times longer.

LED lamps have one significant drawback - they are the most expensive. To reduce this minus to a minimum or turn it into a plus, you will need to build it from an LED strip with your own hands. At the same time, the cost of the light source becomes lower than that of luminescent analogues.

A homemade LED lamp has a number of advantages:

  • The service life of the device, when properly assembled, is a record 100,000 hours;
  • In terms of watt/lumen efficiency, they are also superior to all analogues;
  • the cost of a homemade lamp is no higher than that of a fluorescent lamp.

Of course, there is one drawback - the lack of guarantees for the product, which must be compensated by strict adherence to the instructions and the skill of the electrician.

Specialized stores offer a large selection of LED devices. However, sometimes it is impossible to find a device in the assortment that meets the necessary parameters. In addition, LED devices are traditionally high in cost.

Meanwhile, it is quite possible to save money and get the perfect lamp by assembling it yourself. This is not difficult to do and basic technical knowledge and practical skills will be enough.

A DIY LED device has a number of significant advantages over a store-bought analogue. They are economical: with careful assembly and the use of high-quality parts, the service life reaches 100 thousand hours.

Such devices show a high degree of energy efficiency, which is determined by the ratio of power consumption and the brightness of the light produced. Finally, their cost is an order of magnitude lower than their factory counterparts.

Making an LED lamp from a halogen lamp

In accordance with the diagram, the LEDs are located on the disk with their legs up, taking into account their polarity. A small amount of glue is applied between them so that it does not get on the contacts. During soldering, the entire chain must start with a plus and end with a minus. Next, the positive contacts are connected using soldering. The negative contacts are connected to resistors and to each other. As a result, resistors with a negative charge are obtained.

The contacts of the resistors are connected to each other, after which copper wires are soldered to them. The gap between the wires and contacts is filled with glue to avoid short circuits. Then the disk and reflector are glued together. After the glue has dried, you can connect to a 12 volt power source.

The main issues that have to be resolved in the manufacture of LED lamps are the conversion of alternating electric current into pulsating and its equalization to constant. In addition, it is necessary to limit the power flow to 12 volts, which is necessary to power the diode.

When thinking through the device, you should also solve a number of design problems, namely:

  • how to arrange the circuit and LEDs;
  • how to isolate the system;
  • how to ensure heat exchange in the device.

Before assembly, it is advisable to think through all these problems, taking into account the requirements for a homemade light source.

In addition to the body, other elements will be required to create the lamp. These are, first of all, LEDs, which can be purchased in the form of LED strips or individual NK6 elements. The current strength of each part is 100-120 mA; voltage 3-3.3 V.

You also need 1N4007 rectifier diodes or a diode bridge, as well as fuses, which can be found in the base of an old device.

You will also need a capacitor, the capacitance and voltage of which must correspond to the electrical circuit used and the number of LED elements used in it.

If you are not using a ready-made board, you need to think about the frame to which the LEDs are attached. For its manufacture, a heat-resistant material that is not metal and non-conducting electric current is suitable.

As a rule, such a part is made of durable plastic or thick cardboard. To attach the LED elements to the frame you will need liquid nails or superglue.

Energy saving lamp

After an energy-saving lamp has served its life and burned out, hand-made craftsmen recommend not throwing it away, but using the device to create an LED lighting device. This can be done if the lamp has a working electronic ballast (EB) and a whole housing with a base, which will become the basis of the new product.

To complete the package, you need to purchase 5 mm LEDs and 4 ultra-fast diodes of the UF4007 type. The essence of creating an LED lamp based on an energy-saving one is to install a rectifier bridge at the output of the EB, which will allow you to obtain a constant voltage of 100 V at a current of 130 mA.

To reduce the frequency of the alternating voltage at the EB output, we will assemble a rectifier bridge from UF4007 diodes, to the output of which we solder a 0.1 μF capacitor operating at a voltage of 400 V. We install the diode bridge in place of capacitor C3 (see typical diagram of an EB lamp) connecting the filaments incandescent lamp, which we then close together.

Separately, we assemble a series chain of 30 LED devices, the current consumption of which is 20 mA, and check its operation. At a constant voltage of 100 V and a current of 130 mA, you can assemble 5 chains of LED diodes of 30 pieces each and get a lamp whose power is 15 W.

As we can see from what is described above, you can make an LED lamp yourself, not only by soldering the circuit, but also by using various devices - LED strip and lamps of different types.

Energy-saving lamps that have expired should not be thrown away; they can be used as the basis for LED lamps. The lamp body together with the base must be intact, and the electronic ballast must be in full working order, since they will be the basis of the new lamp. In addition, you will need 5 mm LEDs and 4 ultra-fast diodes.

A rectifier bridge is installed at the output of the energy-saving lamp, providing a constant voltage of 100 volts at a current of 130 mA. A sequential chain of 30 LEDs is assembled separately; the number of such chains can reach up to five.

LED luminous flux online calc. .

LED lamp circuits

The circuit includes four diodes that are connected in different directions. Thanks to this, the bridge acquires the ability to transform the mains current of 220 V into a pulsating one.

This happens as follows: when sinusoidal half-waves pass through two diodes, they change, which causes a loss of polarity.

During assembly, a capacitor is connected to the positive output in front of the bridge; in front of the negative terminal - a resistance of 100 Ohms. Another capacitor is installed behind the bridge: it will be needed to smooth out voltage drops.

The easiest way to create an LED lamp is to make a light source based on a broken lamp. It is necessary to check the functionality of the detected parts, which can be done using a 12 V battery.

Defective elements must be replaced. To do this, you should unsolder the contacts, remove the burnt out elements, and put new ones in their place. In this case, it is important to observe the alternation of anodes and cathodes, which are attached in series.

If you need to change only 2-3 pieces of the chip, you can simply solder them to the areas where the failed components were previously located.

For complete self-assembly, you need to connect 10 diodes in a row, observing the polarity rules. Several completed circuits are soldered to the wires.

When assembling circuits, it is important to ensure that the soldered ends do not touch each other, as this can lead to a short circuit in the device and failure of the system.

To avoid the flickering characteristic of LED lamps, the circuit described above can be supplemented with several details. Thus, it should consist of a diode bridge, 100 and 230 Ohm resistors, 400 nF and 10 μF capacitors.

To protect the device from voltage surges, a 100 Ohm resistor is placed at the beginning of the circuit, followed by a 400 nF capacitor, after which a diode bridge and another 230 Ohm resistor are installed, followed by an assembled chain of LEDs.

A similar scheme is also quite accessible to a novice master. To do this, you need two 12k resistors and two chains of the same number of LEDs, which are soldered in series, taking into account the polarity. In this case, one strip on the R1 side is connected to the cathode, and the other to R2, the anode.

Lamps made according to this scheme have a softer light, since the operating elements are lit in turn, making the pulsation of the flashes almost invisible to the naked eye.

The devices are successfully used as a table lamp and for other purposes. To create optimal lighting, experts recommend using strips of 20-40 diodes. A smaller number gives a small luminous flux; connecting a larger number of elements is technically quite difficult.

The basis of the basics is the calculation and principle of operation of a current driver with a quenching capacitor

Resistor R1 limits the current surge when power is applied until the circuit stabilizes (about 1 second). Value from 50 to 150 Ohm. Power 2 W.

Resistor R2 ensures the operation of the ballast capacitor. Firstly, it discharges it when the power is turned off. At a minimum, to prevent you from being shocked when unscrewing the light bulb. The second task is to prevent a current surge in the case when the polarity of the charged capacitor and the first half-wave of 220 volts do not coincide.

Actually, the damping capacitor C1 is the basis of the circuit. It is a kind of current filter. By selecting the capacitance, you can set any current in the circuit. For our diodes it should not exceed 20 mA at peak mains voltage.

Electrolytic capacitor C2 is needed to prevent the lamp from flickering. LEDs have no inertia when turned on and off. Therefore, the eye will see a flicker with a frequency of 50 Hz. By the way, cheap Chinese lamps are guilty of this. The quality of the capacitor is checked using any digital camera, even a smartphone. Looking at the burning diodes through a digital matrix, you can see blinking, indistinguishable to the human eye.

In addition, this electrolyte provides an unexpected bonus: the lamps do not turn off immediately, but with a noble slow attenuation until the capacity is discharged.

I = 200*C*(1.41*U network – U led)

I – resulting circuit current in amperes

200 is a constant (mains frequency 50Hz * 4)

1.41 – constant

C – capacitance of capacitor C1 (quenching) in farads

U network - estimated network voltage (ideally 220 volts)

U led – total voltage drop across the LEDs (in our case – 3.3 volts, multiplied by the number of LED elements)

By selecting the number of LEDs (with a known voltage drop) and the capacity of the quenching capacitor, it is necessary to achieve the required current. It should not be higher than specified in the characteristics of the LEDs. It is the strength of the current that you regulate the brightness of the glow, and inversely proportional to the lifespan of the LEDs.

For convenience, you can create a formula in Excel.

The circuit has been tested several times, the first copy was assembled almost 3 years ago, it works in a kitchen lamp, there have been no malfunctions.

Let's move on to the practical implementation of projects. There is no point in discussing the number of LED elements and capacitor capacity in individual circuits: the projects are individual for each lamp. Calculated strictly according to the formula. The above circuit for 60 LEDs with a 68 microfarad capacitor is not just an example, but a real calculation for a current in the circuit of 15 mA (to extend the life of the lights).

The rectified current goes to series-connected LEDs HL1-HL27, the number of which can reach 80 pieces.

To avoid flickering and achieve a consistently even color, it is advisable to use capacitor C2, which should have as large a capacity as possible.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This means that, having on hand non-working linear or compact fluorescent lamps and several elements given above in this article, you can create an LED lamp with your own hands, which has a number of advantages. One of the main ones is low cost compared to lamps that can be purchased in a store.

As you can see, assembling an LED lamp with your own hands is not a problem if you have a little knowledge of electrical elements and have the skills to work with a soldering iron. Of course, this is not the only scheme. You can make a lamp from an ordinary energy-saving lamp, or a chandelier using incandescent lamps. The main thing is to correctly assemble the power supply, adjusting it to a voltage of 12 volts and the current strength of a piece of LED strip.

DIY 220V LED lamp - assembly diagram

How to choose a power supply for a 12V LED strip

How to make light music from LED strip with your own hands

DIY LED lamps

With the rising cost of electricity, many are thinking about purchasing LED light sources, which bring significant savings and are excellent substitutes for natural lighting. However, today not many can afford LED lamps, because their cost is still quite high. Therefore, thanks to folk craftsmen, in this article we will look at how you can make a lighting device from LEDs with your own hands.

LED lamps, made independently, have high technical characteristics. They are almost as good as factory models in terms of qualities such as strength, reliability, and durability. The assembly of such devices is accessible to almost everyone: to successfully complete it, you just need to strictly follow the diagrams and carefully carry out all the prescribed manipulations.

Assembling a simple LED lamp

Let's consider the implementation of a lamp in a standard base from a fluorescent lamp. To do this, we will have to slightly change the above list of materials. In this case we use:

  • old base E27;
  • NK6 LEDs;
  • driver RLD2-1;
  • a piece of plastic or thick cardboard;
  • Super glue;
  • electrical wiring;
  • soldering iron, pliers, scissors.

Initially, you need to disassemble the lamp. For luminescent devices, the connection of the base to the plate with tubes is carried out using latches. It is important to locate the fastening location and pry the elements with a screwdriver, which will allow you to easily disconnect the cartridge.

When disassembling the device, extreme care must be taken so as not to damage the tubes that contain a toxic substance inside. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the integrity of the electrical wiring connected to the base, as well as preserve the parts contained in it.

We use the upper part with connected gas-discharge tubes to make the plate necessary for connecting the LEDs. It is enough to remove the tubular elements and attach the LED parts to the remaining round holes.

To secure them securely, it is better to make an additional plastic or cardboard cover, which will serve to isolate the chips.

The lamp will use NK6 LEDs, each of which consists of 6 crystals with parallel connection. They allow you to create a fairly bright lighting device with a minimum of electricity consumption.

To connect each LED to the cover, you need to make two holes. They should be pierced carefully in strict accordance with the diagram.

The plastic part allows you to firmly fix the LED elements, while the use of cardboard requires additional fastening of the LEDs to the base using liquid nails or superglue.

Since the device is designed to use six LEDs with a power of 0.5 watts each, the circuit must include three elements connected in parallel.

In a design that will operate from a 220 V power supply, you need to provide an RLD2-1 driver, which you should purchase in a store or do it yourself.

To avoid short circuits, it is important to insulate the driver and board from each other using plastic or cardboard before starting assembly. Since the lamp barely heats up, there is no need to worry about overheating.

Having selected all the components, you can assemble the structure according to the diagram, and then connect it to the electrical network to check the glow.

The device, powered by a standard 220V socket, has low power consumption and a power of 3 Watts. The latter figure is 2-3 times less than that of fluorescent devices and 10 times less than that of incandescent lamps.

Although the light output is only 100-120 lumens, the dazzling white color makes the lamp appear much brighter. The assembled lamp can be used as a table lamp or to illuminate a compact room, for example, a corridor or closet.

LED lamps on various bases

Halogen lamp



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