How to make an ash pan for a sauna stove. Stoves for a sauna complex made of baked bricks

The stove in a real Russian bathhouse should be economical and produce healthy heat. According to these criteria, wood heaters outperform electric and gas heat generators. But there is a third, no less important advantage: you can make a metal stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, provided that you are good at electric welding. The brick version of the heater is also good, but not available to everyone due to the price of materials and the difficulties of laying in the finished steam room. So choose a homemade unit from the models proposed in our publication and start manufacturing using step by step instructions and drawings.

Choosing a sauna stove design

Ideally, a heat source made of metal should meet the following requirements:

Warm up quickly and raise the temperature in the steam room. Iron stoves do this very well.
Keep warm as long as possible. Since steel heats up and cools quickly, you will need a heater that accumulates heat, or an increase in the burning time of the firebox. The third option is to cover the sauna stove with bricks after installation.
Occupy a minimum of usable space in the steam room. If the volume of this room is too small, then it is better to choose a vertical design with a loading door located in the dressing room.
The heater must be safe for people washing in the bathhouse. To protect yourself from burns, you can install a convection casing made of thin sheet iron on the housing or, again, build a brick wall around the housing.

Note. The duration of combustion increases with the volume of the fuel chamber of the unit. Here you need to find a reasonable balance between the size of the stove and the duration of its operation. A small firebox will have to be constantly loaded with firewood, instead of being able to wash in peace, and a large stove will take up half the area of the steam room.

Do-it-yourself iron sauna stoves come in the following designs:

with a body oriented vertically or horizontally in space;
heated directly from the steam room or from the next room (a remote firebox door is made);
with and without water tank;
with external or internal heater.

Vertical heater

The vertical body of the stove shown in the photo gives one advantage - saving space in the bathhouse. There are more disadvantages: short burning time (due to the fact that the flame covers the entire stack of firewood) and not too high heat transfer. According to these important parameters, a horizontal sauna heater outperforms a vertical one, but at the same time occupies a larger area.

Horizontal stove with heater and tank

If the bathhouse does not have an electric water heater, it costs nothing to install a tank for heating water intended for washing on the stove or chimney. It can be welded from ordinary metal, or better yet from stainless steel. There are more convenient way water heating: the tank, located in the washing room, is connected by pipes to a samovar-type steel heat exchanger installed on the chimney pipe.

Steel heat exchanger for chimney

An open heater that we inherited from Finnish sauna, heats up to a maximum of 400 ° C, but it can be poured with water in order to “give the park away.” Heaters closed inside the stove body accumulate more heat, heating up to 700-800 °C, but at the same time they become polluted by passing flue gases and therefore require periodic cleaning.

Reference. Some craftsmen assemble metal stoves with internal brickwork, the diagram of which is shown above. They serve for a long time without burning through the walls, but are difficult to manufacture, and fireclay brick costs money. You can find out more about various sauna heaters by watching the video:

Preparation of materials

It is best to make a stove in a bathhouse from a steel pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm or a gas cylinder. There are several reasons:

the pipe is a ready-made body of the unit, which simplifies the matter;
a cylindrical shape is preferable to a rectangular one for reasons of aerodynamics (air flow) and heat transfer;
vaulted walls without seams will last longer than flat ones;
A round firebox is easier to clean from ash and soot.

Advice. It is more convenient to make an ash pan from sheet metal 2 mm thick, and 3 mm iron will be used for the doors. Try not to use high-carbon steel of a grade higher than St35, which can become hot from exposure to high temperatures, deform and burst at the seams. The correct stove is welded from grade St3.

Stages of door manufacturing

The grate can be made from corners or periodic profile fittings. A budget option- a sheet of thick iron with longitudinal slots, purchased - cast iron grates. It is advisable to make the doors double-layered with a basalt fiber gasket (pictured) so as not to get burned if accidentally touched.

Heater stove - manufacturing manual

We bring to your attention 3 common designs of metal stoves for baths:

a simple horizontal stove made from a cylinder, heated inside the steam room;
heater made of 530 mm pipe with remote firebox;
vertical sauna boiler “three in one”.

The first option is attractive due to its ease of manufacture, small size and mobility. For homemade you will need an old one propane tank with a diameter of 300 or 500 mm and scraps of rolled metal. The second heater is distinguished by an additional section with a door built into the opening of the steam room wall, and an open heater. The third model is a whole boiler, consisting of three compartments - a firebox, a closed heater and a tank for heating water.

Advice. If you can’t find a good pipe or cylinder, cook the stove according to the drawing from sheet steel thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 5 mm). First, you will have to perform a number of operations to assemble the firebox - cutting the workpieces and welding them together with strict observance of 90° angles.

The drawings show options heating units sheet iron

We weld a simple stove

The first thing to do is to correctly cut the cylinder cap along the factory seam. To do this, unscrew the gas valve with an open-end wrench and fill the container with water, after which you can use the grinder.

Reference. Propane is heavier than air and therefore reluctant to leave closed containers. To avoid an explosion when cutting metal, it is customary to force it out with water.

Assemble the heater according to the presented drawing, observing the following order:

Cut openings at the end of the lid for mounting doors and in the housing for the chimney pipe. Make frames for the loading and ash doors from metal strips, and weld them to the openings.
Assemble the grate by welding and place it on the corners fixed inside the cylinder. Weld the cut cover back into place.
Make the sashes as shown in the photo. Place them on the hinges and attach the latches.
Attach legs and a chimney pipe to the body.

After assembly, the gas cylinder sauna stove is melted outside in order to burn off all the old paint. Then it can be degreased and repainted using the heat-resistant composition of the KO series.

Manufacturing a unit with an external firebox

To make such a stove, you need to prepare metal parts and cut the pipe to size, following the drawing:

Advice. When preparing the metal for the additional heater section, measure the thickness of the wall between the steam room and the dressing room. This way you will know the width of the extension part that will fit into the partition opening.

Perform further work according to the instructions:

Cut a hole in the top of the pipe, weld the chimney pipe to it, and weld the legs at the bottom of the firebox. Install the grates as described in the previous section.
Make the front section and weld it to the firebox. Weld a blank metal disk to the rear end of the housing.
Make doors with handles insulated with basalt wool and install them in place.

Important point. The lower plane of the remote firebox should be flush with the pipe wall for easy cleaning of the ash pan.

All that remains to do on top of the finished stove is to weld a frame for the heater from corners covered with a coarse metal mesh. After firing, painting and installation in the bathhouse on site, fill the mesh with special stones from the list:

basalt;
river pebbles;
gabbro-diabase;
soapstone chlorite

How a similar sauna stove is made in practice is described in detail in the video:

Making a vertical boiler

The peculiarity of the round unit shown in the drawing is the presence of 3 chambers - fuel, heater and water tank. Their size can vary according to your wishes, for example, the larger the size of the firebox you make, the longer 1 stack of firewood will burn. Enlarging the heater will allow you to accumulate more heat generated long time after fuel burns out.

Advice. You should not greatly increase the volume of the water tank, otherwise it will not have time to warm up by the time of washing.

The boiler assembly procedure looks like this:

Cut blanks for partitions, bottom and lid from metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Prepare the ends of the pipe and weld the round grate bars.
Make openings in the body for the doors and hatch for loading stones.
Make holes in the partitions for the chimney and install them inside the pipe. Secure the tank lid to the hinges.
Make doors from semi-circular cut out pieces and place them on the awnings.
Install a flue duct and a water drain valve at the bottom of the tank.

If desired, even in this furnace you can make a remote firebox. To do this, you need to increase the loading and ash channel by welding metal blanks of the required width to the side of the pipe, as shown in the photo above. Correct assembly A similar heat generator is shown in detail in the following video:

Installing a stove in a bathhouse

Since a proper steam room is always built of wood, the main requirement when installing a wood-burning heater is Fire safety. To survive it, follow simple rules:

the stove cannot be placed directly on a wooden floor, but only on a sheet of iron protruding 70 cm in front of the firebox;
Wall cladding made of flammable materials also needs to be protected from fire with sheets roofing iron or mineralite;
when installing a heater with a remote firebox, the opening in the wooden partition is also sheathed with non-combustible materials, as is done in the photo;
distance from the insulated chimney pipe to building structures made of wood – 38 cm.

It is recommended to make a channel for venting combustion products outside from a double-walled sandwich filled with basalt wool. Often, the same square-shaped water tank, built directly into the ceiling, is used to insulate the chimney. How to properly install a stove in a bathhouse is shown in the diagram:

Important. Do not use sheet or cord asbestos for thermal insulation inside bathhouses; it emits dust that is harmful to health.

Conclusion

When a homeowner is faced with a choice - to build a stone sauna stove or install a metal one, the majority is inclined to the second option as it is more economical. A homemade iron stove will be even cheaper; in addition, it will be ideal in all respects, because you yourself will think over its design. Don't know how to weld? Save money otherwise by ordering the assembly of the unit in a specialized workshop.

To get the most optimal temperature in the bathhouse, you need to have a properly selected, good stove. At the same time, the choice and arrangement should be taken very responsibly, because the chosen stove for the bath will affect not only the air temperature, but also its humidity.

If you use a low-quality stove, you will never be able to create good bath, being in which would bring rest, relaxation and relief from illnesses. And in order to choose a suitable stove, you should definitely figure out how the bathhouse differs from its closest “relative” - the Finnish sauna.

Connoisseurs know that between a real Russian bathhouse and, for example, there is a real abyss. In saunas, air humidity is relatively low, but the temperature can reach 110-130 degrees. In the bathhouse, the temperature usually does not rise above 70-90 degrees. Only under the very ceiling, where extreme sports enthusiasts prefer to steam, does it approach the mark of a hundred degrees. But the humidity in a Russian bath can be 50-70 percent.

Therefore, the bath has a gentler effect on a person than a sauna. Moist air with the aroma of oak or birch leaves allows you to get rid of diseases that affect the respiratory tract. And the relatively low temperature (with high humidity, 60 degrees is perceived no worse than 120 degrees in a sauna) does not put much strain on the heart, stimulating the release of sweat containing salts and toxins.

Also, unlike a sauna, which heats up quite quickly and cools down quickly, a bathhouse takes longer to warm up, but retains heat for a very long time.

Having dealt with these subtleties, you can begin to choose a suitable stove.

What requirements must the oven meet?

Today on sale you can see the most different models ovens. They may vary in size, design and materials. You can buy a stove made of brick or metal, suitable for heating a small or large room. But you should make the final choice only after you have decided on the size of the bathhouse and steam room itself.

An approximate list of requirements for a sauna stove:

Compactness. In most cases, baths have small size, which allows you to heat them relatively quickly.
Fire safety. All the upholstery in a good bath (floors, ceilings, walls, shelves) is made of wood. Therefore, in some cases, one spark is enough for the whole thing to flare up.
Power. This indicator is selected for a specific bath. A stove made of metal or brick must have sufficient power to quickly heat the bathhouse and heat required quantity water, provide bathhouse visitors with steam and hot air, and also thoroughly dry the steam room after completing all procedures.

Yes, a sauna stove must meet only three main criteria. But if she doesn’t answer at least one, then she’s not suitable. It's better to find another model, fortunately modern market offers a huge selection.

Today, when you come to a specialized store, you can see two types of devices: steam generators and classic heater stoves.

Steam generators resemble huge electric kettles in design, usually square or rectangular shape. Almost all models have a power control function. The heater stove can be replaced with it, or supplemented in order to humidify the air to the optimal level. However, steam generators are relatively little known to most people, and in addition, they differ sharply from conventional heater stoves. Therefore, despite their convenience and ease of use, they are little popular.

Installation diagram of a steam generator in a bath

Heater stoves are usually divided into two groups - closed and open. The former are most often made of stone or brick. They are the ones best suited for.

What are modern sauna stoves like?

Experts divide all modern stoves into two categories, based on the type of energy used: wood stoves and electric heaters. Each of them has certain advantages, which you should definitely know about in order to avoid mistakes when choosing the right model.

Design metal stove-heaters can be very different. Some of them are made using handicraft methods, from scrap materials and using gas welding. Others are created in factories and have a special design developed by professionals. But they all differ in how quickly the temperature rises. It is enough to lay dry, high-quality firewood and set it on fire, so that after 30-40 minutes the temperature in the bathhouse rises to a level suitable for washing.

The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is completely eliminated. The stove is covered on all sides with metal, preventing smoke from entering the bathhouse. The stones from which the heater is made heat up as a result of the flame transferring heat to the iron, and the iron conducts them to the stones and gives off heat to them.

Alas, the classic metal sauna stove has a serious disadvantage. The heat capacity of such furnaces is not too high. They heat up quickly and, rapidly transferring heat to the room, quickly cool down. Because of this, conditions suitable for uniform heating of the body are not created. To correct this, experts recommend lining them with brick, leaving only a gap of a few centimeters for a layer of air. This not only allows for a long time retain heat (brick has a high heat capacity), but also reduce the risk of burns.

Construction of a stone stove for a bath

You can watch how to make a stove-stove with your own hands in this video

Building a stove that will be made entirely of brick is an expensive process. In addition, you will also spend quite a lot of time on the construction of such a serious structure.

You should also always consider the dimensions and. On the one hand, the stove should take up a minimum of space, and on the other hand, it should provide enough heat to heat several people. Below in the drawings you can see various designs of heater stoves that are suitable for almost any size bathhouse. Accordingly, the upper ones are for large baths, the lower ones are for small structures.

Diagram of a metal stove-heater

Here is a drawing of a stove that you can make yourself.

External brickwork;
Furnace frame;
Internal brickwork;
Wire clamps;
Water heating tank;
Chimney;
Heating stones;
Steam hatch;
Protective grille;
Plank;
Fire door;
Blower door;
Support a metal sheet.

The diagram shows the most commonly used heater stove design, which is suitable for any small bathhouse. It will create the necessary temperature in the room, which will allow several people to steam at the same time.

The metal frame of such a stove-stove is made of steel sheet, having a thickness of 5 mm. You also need to place a tank for heating water directly on top of the stove itself.

In the cold season, such stoves can heat a room of 10 m3 in about 2 hours, while the temperature of the stones can reach and be more than 300 degrees Celsius.

In this video you can see how a simple metal stove-stove was made with your own hands

Design of a metal stove for a bath

Pure metal sauna stoves are no less durable and reliable.

Drawing of the simplest iron stove for a bath

It is recommended to line the iron stove with fire-resistant bricks to avoid serious injuries and burns instead of pleasure during bathing procedures. The stove can be made from ordinary sheet iron, but a more reliable and durable design can be made from chrome-plated steel.

Scheme of the modern metal furnace for sauna chrome steel

Naturally, when arranging one should take into account everything that is mandatory when constructing any stove. Be sure to consult with experts about this point, even if you decide to build the stove yourself.

Another scheme for arranging a metal stove for a bath, which you can make yourself

Installation of a metal furnace

When installing a metal sauna stove, you must adhere to certain recommendations:

The construction of a sauna stove is much simpler than it might seem at first glance. Trade organizations offer a wide range of bath stove models. Depending on the design of the furnace, they can operate at different types fuels: liquid, gaseous, wood, combined. Many designs are equipped with automatic monitoring and control devices with various functions (setting on and off times, adjusting air and water temperatures, humidity control). Products have great design and compact sizes, but not everyone can buy them. There is only one way out of this situation: make a stove yourself, from available materials.

Basic device options

The first designs of sauna stoves have survived to this day. But what is a black bath? It seems impossible to imagine a bathhouse in which there is no chimney and flue gases escape through the door. However, over time, Russian craftsmen managed to overcome this drawback, and a white bathhouse appeared, with a chimney through the ceiling.

Modern furnace designs have two main directions: “hot” and “cold” furnaces. The name comes from the temperature to which the walls of the sauna stove can warm up. In a “hot” stove, the temperature of the walls can reach 100 ° C and higher, transferring heat into the room and warming it up.

Scheme of the furnace “in black”.

Such furnaces are made of metal. The use of such structures is optimal in baths without constant heating, usually used once a week. Such a stove quickly warms up the room even at an initial temperature below zero.

The disadvantage is the need for strict control of the temperature in the steam room. A stove that quickly heats a room can create a high temperature that not everyone can withstand. A room with such a stove also cools down quite quickly.

Baths with “cold” stoves take much longer to warm up, since the temperature of the walls is much lower. The initial version is simple brick oven with a heater and a water tank turned out to be too expensive due to high fuel consumption and not effective use heat, most of which simply flew out the chimney.

Various designs with heat exchange channels have been created that make it possible to more efficiently use the heat obtained from fuel combustion and increase the speed of air circulation in the room. The developed designs turned out to be quite successful and became widespread.

The design of the stove “in white”.

The temperature of the walls of such a stove in the bathhouse remains low and can reach a maximum of 50° C. The heat is “soft”, and the overall microclimate of the room is more comfortable. The room retains a warm atmosphere much longer compared to baths equipped with “hot” stoves. Fuel consumption for heating a room from “zero” to an acceptable temperature, compared to a “hot” stove, is noticeably higher. A more effective mode for baths with such a stove is to maintain heat daily.

Both main options are not final, and it is possible to create various combined designs that do not have disadvantages and retain the advantages of both directions. Although in all cases perfect solution not found yet.

Approximate design of a “cold” stove for a bath

“Cold” furnaces are built mainly from brick, although such a furnace can be made of metal. The classic design represents a firebox with an ash pan and grates. A heater or water tank is located above the firebox.

In old designs, the stones in the stove were heated directly by the flame, and before starting the procedures, the fire in the firebox had to be completely extinguished so as not to be poisoned carbon monoxide. Subsequently, stones began to be placed in a closed space, heated by heat exchange through the walls. Therefore, it is preferable to place the heater first along the flue gases or above the flame, and then a tank of water.

As practice shows, such placement is optimal for efficient use of heat. In more modern designs Instead of a tank, a coil is installed that is connected to the tank. The tank itself is located to the side or attic space above the bathhouse. This design allows to significantly reduce dimensions ovens. In the brick walls of the oven you need to lay out ventilation ducts having a common wall with chimneys, 1/4 brick thick. Air should enter the channels at floor level or from underground and exit above the height of human growth. When installing a furnace, you must carefully maintain all fire-prevention gaps and install protective gaskets at points of contact brickwork with combustible surfaces.

Construction of “hot” stoves for baths

“Hot” stoves are more popular. Metal stoves are more compact, heat the room faster and consume less fuel. An undoubted advantage is the ability to manufacture such a stove in a factory or home workshop and then install finished design in the bathhouse. A do-it-yourself metal stove will cost much less than a brick stove or one purchased from a trade organization.

Figure 1. Construction of a metal furnace.

The oven can be made from a metal sheet 6-10 mm thick, rectangular in shape, or from a pipe with a diameter of 0.5 m or more. The second option is preferable, since the round structure better withstands thermal expansion and the number of welds during manufacturing is much lower. It is advisable to use fresh metal, without traces of severe corrosion, in extreme cases problem areas can be patched or used as a door and opening for the heater.

The design of a furnace of any shape consists of three main components:

Firebox with ash pit. Firewood will burn here, and the resulting ash will fall through the cracks in the grates into the ash pan. The door on the ash pan serves as an air supply regulator - a blower.
Kamenka filled with cobblestones or special stones. Closed space isolated from flue gases. The stones heat up due to heat transfer through the metal walls. The splash hole can be equipped with a door to heat it to a higher temperature.
Tank for heating water. You can draw water from the tank with a ladle, but this is inconvenient and unsafe; you can get burned if you accidentally touch the stove wall. Therefore, it is better to cut a hole in the bottom of the tank and weld a threaded tube for installing a tap, oriented in the desired direction.

An approximate design of the furnace can be seen in the diagram (Fig. 1).

To work you will need the following tools:

Grinder with cutting and cleaning wheels.
A set of electric welding equipment (shield, cable with holder) and electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.
Tape measure, square, metal ruler 1 m long.

To make a furnace you will need a pipe 1.6 m long or two pieces with a length of 0.9 m and 0.7 m. The dimensions are not critical and can be changed based on specific situation. From a longer piece you need to make a combustion chamber with a heater. The heater is made of a pipe or its segments with a diameter of approximately half the diameter of the stove. At one end of the pipe you need to cut a plug from sheet metal and weld it with a continuous seam. At the other end you can install a door of the required shape or just a small bar fence to prevent stones from spilling out. In the upper part of the pipe section of the combustion chamber, you need to mark and cut a hole of the required shape for the heater. Install the manufactured part into it and weld it with a continuous seam. The blind end of the heater also needs to be secured on the opposite side using rod brackets and welding.

Making a furnace

Then, having determined the location of the stove in the room, cut into in the right place holes for the firebox and ash pan. The blower door has a height of 50-60 mm and a width of 200-250 mm. The door for the firebox can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a cut-out piece. Both doors must be installed on the awnings and provided with latches. The combustion chamber is ready.

For a section for the tank, you need to cut the bottom out of sheet metal 8-10 mm thick, install it in place and weld it with a continuous seam. Cut a hole in the center for chimney of the required diameter, usually 100-120 mm, install a piece 800-900 mm long into it and also weld it with a continuous seam, controlling the location. After finishing, you need to check the quality of the welded joints by filling the container with water, then join the sections together and also weld them with a continuous seam.

On top part It is advisable to make a lid for the tank. To do this, you need to cut a circle of sheet metal along the diameter of the pipe and cut it into two unequal parts. One part must be put on the chimney and secured by welding. The second part is installed on the canopies as a cover for filling with water. After completion of the work, the bathhouse can be installed indoors. On the foundation inside the furnace, you need to fill the empty space of the ash pan with a brick secured clay mortar, 1/4 brick high.

Under the grates laid on bricks, you need to leave empty place for collecting ash.

After installing the chimney, the stove can be heated, not forgetting to fill the tank with water.

When asked how a metal stove differs from a stone stove, many answer with a smile and without the slightest hesitation - the material of manufacture. For such an answer you can give a three on the five-point knowledge assessment system. To get a higher score, check out the main and fundamental differences, this knowledge will be very useful to you when making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands.

The stone oven is made of heavy bricks and therefore has a large mass. And all bodies with a large mass are characterized by significant inertia - they heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time. This is not bad for a bathhouse, but only under one condition - the firebox device must ensure the maximum burning temperature of the wood, otherwise you will have to long time heat the premises.

A metal stove, on the contrary, has a low mass, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. These features put forward fundamentally new requirements for the firebox; the wood in it must burn for as long as possible. This is the only way to keep the oven hot for a long time.

Another important requirement for the firebox is related to the characteristics of the steel. When heated to just +150°C, martensite begins to decompose, it recrystallizes and polygonizes, changing physical properties metal

Look at the table, at this temperature the metal furnace does not change color, it seems to us that everything is normal, but this is no longer the case. Low-temperature tempering occurs at metal temperatures up to +250°, steel loses its resistance to dynamic loads.

The dark brown color of the furnace indicates that the metal has heated up to a temperature of +550°C, and at these temperatures medium-temperature tempering of steel begins, martensite turns into ferrite and cementite. Crystalline transformations of a metal change its linear characteristics. Have you noticed that sheet iron does not return to its original size after strong heating and cooling? It may swell, lose linearity, etc. The appearance of the stove becomes “very original” and far from the original.

But quite often the metal stove heats up even more and turns bright red. This color appears at a heating temperature of +900°C. And this is already a high tempering, the metal becomes very soft and ductile, and the phenomena of residual deformation increase significantly. The stove may warp, and the welds may not withstand the static forces that appear. How to prevent such negative phenomena? It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, but there are ways to minimize them. They will help increase the operating time of a metal stove and improve the comfort of bathing procedures by increasing the time it takes to maintain a favorable temperature in the room.

We are confident that this knowledge will help you minimize Negative consequences the metal oven is too hot. This can be done in two ways: special preparation of the metal and the peculiarities of the firebox design.

Preliminary metal preparation

After all the individual elements of the furnace have been cut out, first release the most heated parts. The sides and top parts and the firebox door heat up the most. Heat them in any way until red and cool slowly. After the holiday, the sheets may warp a little, this is not a big deal; use a hammer to straighten them to their original state. Check the dimensions again, if they have changed within noticeable limits, cut to the required parameters. This simple method will prevent the stove from warping during its operation.

Design features of a metal furnace firebox

Most metal stoves produce the maximum amount of heat in a minimum time, firewood burns out very quickly, and surfaces heat up to high temperatures. It is impossible to maintain a normal and stable temperature in the steam room - you have to often add firewood. The room is either too hot or too cold. Why is this happening? Such ovens in most cases have grates. Their presence is justified in stone ovens, we already mentioned that these ovens need to heat up quickly. Strong combustion of the flame is ensured by a large amount of air entering the flame through the grate.

Grate bars are made of metal rods, numerous sheet metal drilled holes or cast iron, differ in hole sizes, etc.

The firewood lies on the grate, the air flow is not regulated in any way; on the contrary, all measures are taken to increase draft, which automatically speeds up the combustion process. The top part of the oven heats up the most, a little less than the side, and the bottom and front heat up slightly.

This combustion mode has an extremely negative impact on both the longevity of the stove and the comfort of staying in the steam room. You have to periodically fill the fire with water; if there is not enough water, the flame will quickly flare up again; if there is too much, the combustion may stop altogether. In a word, a bath day brings a headache instead of pleasure.

What do we offer? The solution is very simple - do not make grates with a ash pit, let the firewood lie at the bottom of the stove, and not on the grate. Seal the firebox door as much as possible; you can use asbestos cord or mineral wool around the perimeter.

Make holes in the firebox door with an ordinary movable damper to regulate the amount of air supplied. One load of firewood in such a stove will burn for more than an hour; it is possible to regulate the heating temperature of the surfaces. In addition, the entire area of the stove will warm up. Due to the absence of a grate and ash pan, the work on making the stove was simplified, and the efficiency and ease of use increased.

As you can see, all the knowledge was useful to us; it can be used not only during the manufacture of a stove for a bath. We've sorted out the theory, it's time to move on to practice.

Brief description and dimensions of the metal stove

Our design will have a separate tank for heating water and a heater built into the top of the stove. The flame heats the heater from all sides, this significantly increases the coefficient useful action ovens. You can take arbitrary sizes, take into account the parameters of the steam room and the number of people washing at the same time. We give the dimensions of our stove as an example.

External heater. Width 50 cm, length 50 cm, height 80 cm.
Internal heater. Width 40 cm, length 40 cm, height 50 cm. The distance between the walls of the inner and outer heater is five centimeters around the perimeter.
Bake. Width 50 cm, length 90 cm, height 50 cm. You can change the length of the stove, make it only for an external heater 50 cm long (then the water tank will have to be mounted on the side on stops) or increase the length to increase the volume of the tank.
Water tank. Width 40 cm, length 50 cm, height 60 cm. The tank holds 120 liters of water, which is enough to wash three or four people. Certainly, hot water needs to be diluted with cold water.

Instructions for making a metal furnace

Step 1. Prepare materials. For manufacturing you need sheet steel, the thicker the better. But this can be very expensive, we recommend using sheets with a thickness of 1.5÷2.0 mm.

Metal sheets 2 mm

Step 2. Make a sketch of the stove indicating all dimensions and parts. Count the number of parts and their total area. This will help you decide on your sheet metal needs.

Diagram - example of a sauna stove

Step 3. Transfer the dimensions to the metal, cut out all the elements of the stove. Strictly observe the angles, they should be equal to 90°, make the opposite sides as identical as possible. You need to cut metal with a cylindrical grinder, follow safety rules. The grinder is a very dangerous tool, you shouldn’t joke with it, you can end up with too serious injuries. Burrs should be removed after cutting the workpieces. Before starting welding, double-check the quantity and dimensions of all parts.

Welding the furnace

Carry out work on a level area, clear workplace from foreign objects. Let's start with making a heater for the stove.

Step 1. Place two side panels on the edge at right angles and start making tacks.

Adjust the current, electric arc should not overheat the metal - the seam will be uneven and fragile. Tack a few millimeters at a time; 4–5 tacks are enough for one corner. Constantly check the position of the sidewalls. After cooling, the weld seam moves the sheets to the side; align their position. Check the corners with a square. In the same way, grab the two remaining sides of the heater.

Step 2. Place the two prepared pieces together, adjust the corners if necessary and grab the opposite edges of the heater. You now have a heater box, all that remains is to make the bottom and lid.

Four connected blank sheets forming a box

Step 3. Grab the bottom and lid. When cutting blanks by hand, it is impossible to achieve ideal dimensions; there will always be deviations. This is not scary; before gripping the bottom and lid, install them in such a way that the difference in size is approximately the same on all sides. Gaps of a few millimeters will be welded without any problems. To prevent the lid from falling into the box, place one side on any stand, the main thing is that it is thin and does not disturb the desired position of the part. Make several tacks on each side of the heater; as always, pay attention to the position of the elements and, if necessary, correct deviations.

For the bottom of the internal heater, it is better to take a sheet 10 mm thick. This accounts for the main “blow” of the flame; a bottom that is too thin can burn out quite quickly and smoke will begin to flow into the steam room. When the heater frame is completely sealed, apply full seams.

Step 4. Make a door in the heater. Lay the box horizontally and mark it. You can cut a hole with a grinder or welding.

In our version, the heater consists of two parts: internal and external. The outer one should have dimensions around the perimeter larger than the inner one by about 10 centimeters for the passage of flame and smoke into the chimney. The internal heater is installed in the external one on pipes, the diameter of the pipes is arbitrary.

Step 5. Make holes for the pipes in the lower part of the outer heater; the inner heater will stand on them. If you don't have pipes, you can use metal rods or fittings. Make sure that the holes are horizontal and at the same height on both sides of the sides of the outer heater.

In the same way, grab the outer heater, stove firebox and water tank. Cut holes in the firebox for firewood. We recommend making holes in such a way that the cut parts of the sheet can be used as doors. To do this, make holes in the firebox 1 cm larger than in the heater; from this blank you can make a door for it - material is saved.

Video - Making a metal stove for a bath (part 1)

Assembly of individual furnace elements into a single structure

Step 1. Prepare four plates for welding two heaters. The dimensions of the plates in length must correspond to the dimensions of the opening of the external heater.

Step 2. In the upper part of the outer heater, cut holes for the chimney pipe. The dimensions of the hole must correspond to the pipe you have and provide the necessary draft in the firebox.

Step 3. Weld metal strips approximately 2 centimeters high around the perimeter of the hole in the stove under the heater; the dimensions of the opening should correspond to the dimensions of the external heater.

Weld a 45x45 m corner from the inside of the firebox; one side of the corner should go into the hole under the heater and form a square. The side of the square should be 0.5÷1 cm smaller than the size of the heater. The structure will rest on these shelves in the oven opening. To increase the sealing of the heater installation, use sheet asbestos, cut strips two centimeters wide from it and place it between the bottom of the heater and the corner stops. Plug-in connection will make it easier to install the stove in the steam room. The stove structures are made of thick steel, are large in size and weight, and it is impractical to weld the heater to the stove. It is much more convenient to make it collapsible/dismountable, this will facilitate transportation and installation.

Step 4. Weld the firebox door on the hinges. Double weld all pre-made structures. It is better to lay the seam from the outside and from the inside.

Step 5. Insert the inner heater into place, it should stand on the pipes and be in a vertical position. Using prepared plates, connect the holes of the inner and outer heater. If the fastening of the internal heater is in doubt, secure it on top with pieces of metal, angles or fittings. These fasteners will be hidden; you can use any scrap metal.

The hole is closed by a door. There is an asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door, the lid is secured with bolts

Step 6. Weld top cover external heater. Cut a hole in it for the chimney pipe. Check the quality of all seams and correct any gaps if necessary.

The heater is almost ready. The only backward thing is to make a technological hole to clean out the soot falling from the pipe and think about installing the furnace. Soot will accumulate on the lid of the inner heater. Make a hole in the side of the outer wall of the heater, close it with a bolted lid, and use asbestos cord to seal it. Carefully grind all corners with a grinder and remove burrs.

We suggest installing the stove on metal legs. The height of the legs is at least 40 centimeters, asbestos must be placed below, and a metal sheet on top. These are fire safety rules.

Video - Sauna stove (stages of assembling a double heater and installing it on a welded combustion chamber)

Video - Sauna stove (final part)

We have already mentioned that each master can make his own changes and adjustments during the manufacture of the furnace, taking into account his own preferences and individual characteristics steam room The changes concern not only the size of the furnace, but also its design. We give some tips for possible use.

It is better to make the legs in the form of longitudinal slides - the pressure on the flooring is significantly reduced, the loads are distributed evenly over several floorboards. This is very important, the stove itself is quite heavy, and you also need to keep in mind the weight of stones and water. To make the legs, any available metal of suitable size is suitable, and for the slide, you can take a 50x50 mm square. The ends of the slide should not protrude beyond the perimeter of the stove, otherwise your legs may be injured.

You can put refractory bricks on the bottom and sides of the stove - the metal heats up less and the heat lasts longer. There are two types of firebricks: heat-conducting (heavy) and heat-insulating (light). The second ones are used for masonry melting furnaces, they keep surfaces cool despite the enormous temperature inside. Make no mistake, do not take such materials. Fire-resistant bricks for a sauna stove must conduct heat well, pay attention to this. If you plan to lay bricks, then increase the size of the firebox by the size of the brick.

The doors of the firebox and heater can be made from plates obtained after cutting out the holes. To do this, make the cuts as even as possible; to reduce the width of the cut, use thin disks. Working with them is more difficult and longer, but in the end you will still save time - you won’t have to waste it on making individual doors. It goes without saying that metal is also saved.

The dimensions of the doors will be smaller than the dimensions of the openings by the width of the cut; the doors may “fall” inside the firebox or heater. To eliminate such situations, weld with reverse side hole stops for doors. You can use narrow strips of metal. It is advisable to weld the stops along the entire perimeter of the holes, and not at several points, this way you will increase the tightness of closing the doors.

It is better to make it from stainless steel; to weld stainless steel you need to use special electrodes. Adjust the current welding machine especially for stainless steel, remember that it is more difficult to cook and requires some experience.

If small children wash in the bathhouse, be sure to make a protective fence around the stove. It can be portable or stationary, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the fence guarantees the safety of children.

If during operation of the stove it turns out that its power is not enough to heat the room, do not worry. The heat transfer performance of the stove can be significantly improved by increasing the effective area. Weld any metal plates on the sides and top; they will serve as radiators and heat exchangers. There is another way to increase heat transfer. To do this, you will need curved pipes with a diameter of approximately 50 centimeters. Weld them to the sides of the stove, one end of the pipe should be located under the stove, and the other above it. As a result of the temperature difference, draft will appear in the pipes, cold air pulled in from the floor under the stove and thrown out hot above it. The stove will work on the principle of the Buleryan stove.

We recommend making an adjustable air supply on the firebox door. The easiest way is to make a blower from a pipe. You will need a piece of pipe approximately 10 centimeters long and a piece of sheet metal of the same size. Make a hole in the middle of the door to fit the diameter of the pipe. Cut a circle from sheet metal with a diameter several millimeters less than the nominal diameter of the pipe. Drill two holes in the walls of the pipe; they should lie strictly on the same line and on the axis of the pipe. The distance of the holes from the end of the pipe is at least half the diameter, otherwise the damper will not completely block the gap, which will impair the ability to regulate the amount of fresh air supplied.

Insert a piece of wire rod of the appropriate diameter into the holes, bend the upper end into a handle. Weld a circle cut from sheet steel to the wire rod, fix the manufactured damper to the hole in the firebox door.

There is another way to make adjustable door openings. Drill holes with a diameter of 10÷20 mm in the lower part, the centers of the holes should lie on the same line. Weld a metal plate at the bottom and top of the holes; the distance between the plates and the door should be equal to the thickness of the valve. The plates will serve as guides for the valve. As necessary, open one or more holes when firing the stove.

These are not all the possible improvements to a metal stove; think for yourself and engage in technical creativity. This process brings real pleasure, trust the professionals.

There are many metal sauna stoves on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in metal welding, you can make a furnace yourself, according to your own dimensions. Read on to find out how to make a stove for a bathhouse from metal (sheet), drawings and photos.

There is a significant difference between the steam modes in a bathhouse and a sauna. In the sauna the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At this temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get a burn, but it will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In a Russian steam room, the temperature stays between 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity “catch up” is high - 50-60%.

To ensure such different tasks different approaches are required to build a furnace. Sauna required largest area contact of the furnace body with the surrounding air and acceleration of passage air flow along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as quickly as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, and is usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250°C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But you don’t need a lot in the sauna - one or two ladle will give 15% humidity. I just can't stand it anymore.

In a Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve large quantities pair. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called “dry” and has a high temperature - about 130-150°C. Under this condition, after soaring, the body feels light and energized. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones whose temperature is at least 500°C. To achieve it, the stones are “packed” inside the firebox - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

As you can see, there are significant design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for Russian baths

What else should you keep in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65°C is unrealistic. Be sure to melt it. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and is difficult to be nearby. The problem can be solved in two ways:

It's also worth talking about seams. In homemade metal stoves (in factory ones, too, in principle), burnout often begins precisely at the seams. In production, this problem is avoided using bent structures. In the upper part they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a sauna stove with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left to do - make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (assuming it is normal). IN different sources there are different recommendations with more or less amounts - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m 3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to obtain the required amount of steam, provided that the oven has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that stones of different types have different densities, and, therefore, the same mass occupies different volumes. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be changed slightly, made wider/narrower/higher - look at the design of the stove.

The ratio of the volume of the firebox to the volume of the heater is a complex thermotechnical calculation that not even every heating engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. At a minimum, the volume of the firebox “free” from the heater should not be less. It’s better if it’s even about 30-50% more.

A little about what part of the firebox is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the arch of the firebox will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Don’t forget about the maintenance of the heater and the fact that water must somehow get into it. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can special problems reach with your hand to the farthest edge. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Typically, a tube or system of tubes is inserted, which diverge across the entire plane of the stone container. On the room side, this tube ends in a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater/stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove was designed for a steam room of 2*3*2.3 m. It was made from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

To activate combustion, it is possible to connect an additional air duct laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffening ribs (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend during strong heating.

The following diagram of a metal sauna stove is made with air supplied to the upper part of the firebox. These are so-called gas afterburning furnaces. There is a metal plate welded on the back wall. Air from under the grate is supplied into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the firebox using air ducts. This seemingly simple device solves two problems at once. Firstly, it cools back wall, reducing the likelihood of it burning out. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are flammable (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, the combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the firebox becomes even higher, and the stones heat up to higher temperatures. In this case (when using dry firewood) much less fuel is required. Many furnaces are built on this principle. long burning, but it began to be used in sauna stoves only recently.

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, made in a different format. The dimensions are not indicated here, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of the various elements.

Three-dimensional model of a homemade metal stove-heater

IN in this case The volume of the firebox is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it may rest against ceiling beam- you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So think about the location of the pipe.

Even among bathhouse lovers, there is a constant debate about whether a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad... Some regulate the humidity by opening/closing the lid of the tank. They are happy with this option. Others say that this steam is “heavy”, and take the tank to the washing compartment, and heat the water in it by building a heat exchanger into the firebox and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The following diagram is a stove in a metal bath with a water tank.

The design is clever - with the help of a “spark arrestor” the path of flue gases is longer, it stays in the firebox longer, and heats the walls better. If you don't want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank located at the back of the stove. The chimney is moved back and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the outlet of the tank will definitely not be high.

The heater is interestingly designed. It is not very large, but its volume is enough for small and medium-sized steam rooms. It closes with a lid, which on the one hand is not very convenient: closing the lid after applying water to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type heating devices- quickly “catch up” to the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - install a fan that will blow on the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

The convector casing performs approximately the same function. This is the casing around the oven body. There remains a gap of 1.5-2 cm between it and the wall of the firebox. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, and at the same time cools the walls. Then it rises upward, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can be made of thin metal. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in a sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow on the stones and heat up even more. This type of heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a normal size firebox that can accommodate large logs. In the upper part, above the top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. There may be variations in width/height/depth, but there are no special tricks.

Installing a tank to heat water in a sauna steam room is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and when high temperatures easy to get burned. However, there are several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can put a lid on it and this oven can be used in two modes - with the lid open for dry vaping, and with the lid open for obtaining more pair.