How to make a storm drain with your own hands. Installation of storm drainage for a private house Storm sewerage on a site with a slope

Thanks to the widespread use of plastic and polymer materials, manufacturers of modern storm sewers have long switched to the modular principle of planning and completing a rainwater drainage system. This approach has made life easier for builders; now storm sewers can be assembled from individual units easier and faster. If you have sufficient experience and understanding of the operating principles, you can often make storm drains yourself, based on the recommendations and requirements of SNiP.

How to make an effective storm drain

The easiest way is to build a storm sewer according to a standard project, for which it is necessary to make a reference to the terrain, taking into account the topography, the presence of slopes and the choice of the location where the well for the storm sewer will be located. Most often, a secluded corner on a site is chosen for a well, somewhere on the periphery or in a lowland. A storm sewer system is built only after laying out and assembling the elements of the site’s drainage system; it is located below the storm drain, so it must be completed earlier than the drainage of rainwater.

Installation of storm drainage will be carried out in the following sequence:

• We will determine installation locations in the area around the house for rotary wells, storm water inlets and a tray for collecting water from the porch, linear and point water inlets along sidewalks and walkways. We prepare holes and trenches for their installation;
• Based on the received map, we mark out the routes for laying drainage pipes, while it is advisable to divide the storm sewer system into at least three independent branches - for a water collection system from the roof, for a linear system on the paths and a water collection system on the site. For each of the branches we plan our own control well and pipeline system;
• We sequentially dig trenches for the selected storm sewer branch, lay pipes, connect them to the well, then move on to the next branch and carry out the necessary work on installing the storm sewer;
• At the last stage, it is necessary to carry out verification tests and, if necessary, install bypass pipes.

Advice! The most difficult thing in the construction of storm sewers is the correct balancing of water flow in each of the branches. The easiest way is to make a verification calculation of the amount of water for each water intake and the capacity of the pipes, based on the surface area being served.

How to make storm drainage simple and effective

For normal and stable operation of the storm water collection and drainage system, several simple requirements must be met:

1. When choosing the cross-section of drainage pipes for linear sewerage, it is necessary to make a five-fold reserve of the volume of water passed through based on the load at an average rate of precipitation. Linear sewerage is almost always located near the house and takes on excess water if storm water inlets cannot cope with the load and the site is flooded with water;
2. It is extremely important to make the slope of the drainage pipes at least 4-5 o; the system will work at 1-1.5 o, but in the absence of contamination inside the pipelines;
3. Linear storm drainage must have an additional sand and mud filter designed for heavy loads. We install it in the inspection well;
4. To balance the load on individual branches, it is necessary to make at least one revision tank. Use one of the wells to collect water from all water intakes around the house, the second, larger one, should be made lower in level and used for linear gutters. From the first to the second, it is recommended to make an overflow pipe to equalize the load on the storm sewer.

For your information! Before assembly, it is best to treat all rubber O-rings with waterproof glue.

We install rainwater inlets and pipelines

Storm sewerage is carried out in such a way that the average depth of drainage pipes is 30 cm, so the trench for laying water pipes must be made at least 60 cm deep. The dimensions of a standard box storm drain are 30x30x50 cm. To install the box, it is necessary to accurately record its position in height and distance from the drain drainpipe holes.

Next, at the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to place a support under the receiving element. We lay out a sand cushion of 5-10 cm, on top of the sand you need to make a fixing layer of M100 concrete mortar, 2-3 cm thick. We install the water intake box and connect the storm drainage pipe to the side wall. We connect the pipe to the next element of the storm sewer - a tee, an inspection well or a flexible coupling, or the next storm inlet. Then it is necessary to make a control check at the building level for the presence of a drain pipe slope.

Afterwards, it is necessary to make adjustments and leveling of the rainwater inlet body, after which the well can be concreted. The seam between the cage and the concrete foundation area is sealed with silicone or rubber cord.

Installation of an inspection well

Storm sewer inspection tanks are installed according to a similar scheme. Before installing the well in the prepared pit, it is necessary to make a specific check of the height at which the receiving hole will be located in the wall of the housing. To do this, the last runoff of the water pipeline, which is supposed to be connected to the well, is installed on a rainwater inlet or at the outlet of a linear water inlet, the pipe body is aligned with the drainage angle. Next, you need to make a fixing masonry of the pipe flange using several bricks and a small amount of mortar.

The body of the inspection well is turned with the receiving window towards the pipe, after which it is necessary to make markers of its height position. Next, at the bottom of the pit it is necessary to fill a cushion of sand and fine crushed stone screenings 10-15 cm thick. The layer is compacted and filled with a solution 10 cm thick.

Next you need to do the following. Carefully insert the housing into the pit, connect the pipe using a soft coupling and install the well onto the filled solution. After the solution has hardened, the pit with the body is covered with a mixture of sand and screenings; on the top part it is necessary to make a concrete screed 15 cm thick. The connection of all storm sewer pipes is carried out simultaneously before concreting and backfilling the pit.

Advice! Before final concreting, it is useful to check how water flows through the pipes into the storage tank. Usually it is enough to fill each element with 5-10 liters of water.

Linear storm drain

Water intake trays are installed faster and easier. They are produced in the form of separate segments, which can be simply assembled into one chain, made a trench and installed, leveled. To install the receiving gutters of a linear storm sewer system, in addition to marking the location and direction of installation, it is necessary to make a drainage angle from a thin nylon or textile cord.

Most often, the cord is pulled between the extreme points of the drain line and fixed on metal stakes. When laying fragments of linear sewerage, it will be enough to align the edge and top surface of each laid segment along a stretched cord.

At the bottom of the ditch it is necessary to make a standard filling of slag or sand screenings, pour in a small amount of solution, and lay a segment. As a rule, the level of the upper surface of the gutter is 2-2.5 cm below the surface from which water will be collected. It is recommended to make a blind area on the walls of the trench with cut halves of paving slabs.

Protective gratings made of cast iron or stamped steel are laid on top of the gutters. Plastic protection is used much less frequently due to high mechanical loads.

Installation of a water collection well

There are two main methods for removing stormwater from sewers. Make a collection well or dump the accumulated water directly into the sand layers at a depth of 3 meters. To discharge rainwater into sand in the ground, as a rule, choose a place lower in level and farthest from the place for the cesspool. In this case, water flows under a bell made of concrete or plastic and is absorbed by sand layers.

It is more rational to accumulate water in a collection well. Rainwater is a fairly valuable resource, especially if there are trees, shrubs or vegetable crops on the site. The volume of such a collection ranges from 3 to 6 m3. You can purchase a ready-made polypropylene container and install it in the pit. At the bottom of the pit you need to make a concrete foundation with its own drainage. A gravel cushion is poured under the foundation, it is recommended to strengthen the walls of the pit with brickwork, and anchor bolts are embedded in the slab to secure the container. If the container does not have supporting elements, installation will require making three supports from red brick or casting them from reinforced concrete.

All pipe connections from storm sewers are inserted into a container using couplings that compensate for distortions and deformations arising from temperature changes and soil settlement.

Alternatively, you can make a container from ready-made concrete rings or lay out a body of red brick lined with cement mortar. This option will work no worse than polypropylene, but this will require waterproofing from mastic and polyethylene film.

Conclusion

It is quite possible to make high-quality storm drainage even with a very limited budget. In this case, most of the plastic parts and assemblies are replaced with concrete castings in the ground. Thus, you can make linear and point water intakes, cast gutters instead of pipes and cover them on top with paving slabs. The only elements that will have to be purchased and installed are gratings made of steel reinforcement or cast iron and covers for plastic wells.

Sometimes for a summer resident, long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes a real natural disaster. As a result of a prolonged summer rain, as well as during a spring flood, a real lake may form on the site.

In order to avoid stagnation of water, a system for collecting and draining it from the territory is needed. If you build a storm drain with your own hands, then the costs of its construction will be minimal.

The article presented for review describes in detail the principle of constructing an atmospheric water drainage system and describes the components of the structure. We will tell you how best to build it and how to maintain it. Taking into account our advice, organizing a storm drain will not cause the slightest difficulty.

Storm drainage is a specific design. The water discharged through this system contains both small and large debris. Therefore, there must be primary cleaning in the storm drain.

The system may differ in the volume of water it is able to accept, design, and duration of effective operation.

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Based on the design of the system, 3 types of storm drainage can be distinguished:

1. Open. It has the simplest design, is easy to implement, and is inexpensive.
2. Closed. This option is more complex. Here you will have to deal with underground pipes and storm water inlets. The system needs to be planned in advance, and installation is best done by a specialist.
3. Mixed. They are chosen when there is not enough finance to implement option 2, and also if you need to cover a large area. It is something between the first two.

Storm drainage of the first type is made in the form of drainage trays built into the coating. Through them, water flows to a specially designated place or is simply drained into the garden. The second type of system is located below the zero point, which requires significant excavation work and corresponding financial investments.

Surface drainage can fit perfectly into the landscape design of a dacha, and even become its decoration. Use the system in small areas

Such a storm drain is installed mainly during the development of a site, since it is a freezing option that is easier to implement. The system is not buried very deeply - up to a meter maximum, but both in winter and in early spring it is not involved in work.

To prevent the sewage system from freezing, the pipes are buried below the freezing point. With the third type of storm drainage, the sewerage elements are partially located both on top and in the soil.

Experts say that the choice of such an expensive option as a closed storm drain must be justified. This decision can be justified by high requirements for territory design

Storm drain design is always individual. It is unlikely that there will be areas with absolutely similar conditions. They will always differ, if not in relief, then in layout, soil properties, and the number of outbuildings.

Storm drains are needed both at enterprises and in private properties. The difference in their design is that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which is used for the needs of the enterprise

Basic elements of classic sewerage

Storm drainage can be point or linear. The first option involves collecting water from surfaces that do not absorb moisture, such as the roof, hard surface areas. The wastewater then flows into receiving tanks, and then enters the drainage system.

With the linear method of drainage, water is drained into trays located near paths and platforms. A simplified version of a storm drain consists of the following elements:

• a central pipe laid under a layer of earth and finishing coating and carrying collected water to the extreme point of the scheme;
• trays - the main part of the system that transports excess water to sand traps; the efficiency of drainage largely depends on them;
• a storm inlet located under a pipe or low point in the yard to collect liquid;
• filters and distributors - invisible, but extremely important components.

All elements included in the system are equally important. If any of them fails, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.

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Types of storm water inlets for sewerage

The purpose of a rainwater inlet is to collect moisture coming from pipes and yard coverings. This element is the first to absorb the entire volume of water coming from the drainpipes. When choosing a storm drain, we are guided by such data as the average volume of precipitation, its intensity, topography, and the area occupied by the storm drain.

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You can buy a cast iron or plastic storm inlet. The former are preferable in case of heavy loads, while the latter are attractive due to their moderate cost, low weight, simplifying installation. A cheaper option is to make a rainwater well for storm drainage at your dacha yourself from brick.

The walls of the pit are lined with brick, leaving a hole for the pipe, then plastered from the inside. Better yet, leave a gap between the soil wall and the cover and fill it with concrete. The bottom of the rainwater inlet must be concreted.

No storm drain can do without a rainwater inlet. It preserves both the foundation of the building and the covering around it. If you try to save money on its installation, then water falling on the foundation will lead to shrinkage and cracks on the walls of the building

This important element is also made from concrete rings. Then the bottom ring can be purchased with a finished bottom and you won’t have to fill the slab. Sometimes factory rain inlets go on sale complete with a basket, siphon, and decorative grille.

Most often used for private construction, rainwater inlets made of plastic or composite materials are produced in the shape of a cube, each side of which is 30-40 cm. There are adapters for inserting pipes from below and on all sides of the product.

Storm drain grates vary in quality and cost. You should always take into account the expected loads on them during operation

In order not to clog the pipes with debris falling through the grid cells, rainwater inlets are equipped with baskets. Once they are full, they are removed and cleaned, then returned to their place.

The design of the factory rainwater inlet includes partitions that divide its internal space into compartments and create a water seal. As a result, the unpleasant odor from decaying organic matter does not penetrate outside.

The efficiency of a point storm drain depends not only on its volume, but also on the installation location. It should be located under a drain or in a place where moisture constantly collects. If it is installed under a pipe, then the jets must accurately hit the center of the grate, otherwise some of the water will fall on the foundation or yard surface in the form of splashes.

Why are sand traps needed?

Rain and melt water in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If sand traps are not included in the scheme, dirt will settle in the sewer and it will cease to function fully. Flushing the system is expensive.

A sand trap is a chamber installed behind point receivers in places where water is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed in such a way that the flow of water entering it reduces its speed.

As a result, under the influence of gravity, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. The shape of the sand catcher is a trap with many chambers located horizontally or a chamber in a vertical design.

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What are drainage channels?

How to choose pipes?

For storm sewerage, according to SNiP, pipes made of metal, asbestos or plastic can be used. Most often, for a private home and cottage, the choice is made. They are lightweight, decorative, do not corrode, their installation is simple, but the mechanical strength of the material is low compared to metal.

Having chosen the material, you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes.

The initial value is the largest volume of drained rain and melt water. This parameter is determined by the formula:

Q=q20×F×Ψ

Here: Q is the required volume, q20 is the coefficient characterizing the intensity of precipitation within 20 seconds. (l per second per 1 ha). F is the area of ​​the farmstead in hectares, if the roof is pitched, the area is calculated on the horizontal plane. Ψ - absorption coefficient.

Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, its value can be taken from the table

Based on the calculated value and using the Lukin tables, not only the diameter but also the slope of the system is found.

Most often, home storm drainage is performed using pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. The optimal slope of the drains can be taken from this table

With the correct selection of pipe diameters, storm sewers will cope with the task even during moments of the heaviest rainfall. If flows from several gutters enter the pipe, they are all summed up. Professional practitioners for pipes with a cross-section of 110 mm and gutters of the same diameter usually use a slope of 20 mm/linear. M.

If the pipe is connected to a storm inlet, the slope value is slightly increased to avoid stagnation of liquid, and when entering the sand trap, the slope is reduced. This slows down the flow of water, and suspended particles settle to the bottom in greater quantities.

Water in a sewer system of this type drains by gravity, which occurs due to the formed. There are no pressure pumps here, so you don’t have to look for a team of professionals to install a storm drain at your dacha or country yard.

The owner can do all the work himself. It is written in detail about the calculations for organizing storm drainage, the contents of which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Where do you need a well and a collector?

As in any system consisting of underground pipes, there must be a well in the storm sewer.

Its installation is advisable in the following circumstances:

• if 2 or more flows converge;
• when it is necessary to radically change the height, direction of the pipeline or its slope;
• if there is a need to switch to a larger pipe diameter.

Wells are also provided at established intervals of straight sections of the system. If the diameter of the well does not exceed 150 mm, then the next one is located at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, the interval is increased to 70-75 m.

The diameter of a well in a private house does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well, the larger its diameter should be.

Some owners lay out wells the old fashioned way from brick or reinforced concrete rings. Others prefer more advanced materials - plastic and fiberglass. According to their design, wells are either collapsible or solid.

They have the shape of a cylinder with a completely sealed bottom and a hole at the top. There are nozzles for connecting pipes. Several assembled storm water inlets are also used as wells.

All fluid flows are redirected to the collector after combining them into one. The choice of material for this storm drainage element is individual and depends on the preferences and capabilities of the owner

To redirect the collected water to ground treatment facilities or to a sewer, a collector is included in the system. Sometimes his role is played by a big one. It is converted into a storage tank by hermetically sealing the outlet pipes. To use water, a submersible pump is used.

Large cross-section pipes are also used for the collector - reinforced concrete or plastic with all pipelines connected to them. On the construction market you can also purchase ready-made containers for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where rain and melt water are treated according to the same principle as in septic tanks.

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How to install a storm drain?

The storm drain is installed using the same technology as a conventional sewer system. In any case, the installation of a storm sewer system is preceded by calculation and selection of necessary materials. Before rainwater enters the pipes, it collects on the roof of the house, so it is logical that the construction of a drainage system begins from the top point of the building.

Point drainage of rain and melt water

The first step is to mark the pipeline, consisting of channels, receivers, and wells. Pegs are driven in at the locations of all elements. To see the full picture, a cord is laid between the pegs. The second stage is digging a trench and small depressions for storm water inlets. A sand cushion is placed at the bottom.

If there is a threat of roots growing in the places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom is covered with geotextiles. The installation process begins with the installation of wells and collectors.

Next are smaller elements - rainwater inlets, sand traps, trays. All this is combined with pipes of the calculated diameter under a slope selected from the table or recommended by SNiP. When laying the pipeline, sagging is unacceptable.

The assembled structure is tested. Water is poured onto each section to check the tightness of the joints. The amount of water poured in and out should be approximately the same. A defect such as sagging may be detected, which will be indicated by a significant difference in the volumes of water at the inlet and outlet.

If tests do not reveal problems, the system is covered with a sand-cement layer and soil. Sometimes some parts of the storm drain are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first must be on top of the second pipeline, but they can approach the same collector.

The combination of storm sewerage and ordinary household sewerage should not be allowed. This can lead to overload of the second one with all the negative consequences.

Let's look at the example of the construction of a storm sewer with point water intake devices. It was built from ordinary sewer pipes. The reason was stagnation of water on the surface, formed due to the practical absence of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of the soil.

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We will assume that we have laid the main lines properly with a slope, connected branches to them, maintaining the tightness of the connections. In this case, tightness is needed not to protect the surrounding soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system.

Let's continue the work, now we need to connect the storm drain to the pipe leading into the absorption well:

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Photo from: We connect a sewer pipe to the assembled unit, which will lead water into the filter well

We lay the outlet pipe in a trench designed for it with a slope. We lead her to the absorption well. In fact, maintaining the slope, we cut the outlet pipe into the wall of the absorber

Prevention of storm sewer malfunctions

Having installed the storm drainage system of a private house or cottage yourself, you should not forget that it needs constant care. Preventive measures also include point storm drains to remove debris that has settled in them.

If you neglect this procedure, the system will definitely fail. The ideal option is to use the system all year round.

A self-regulating cable can heat a large area. The basis of its design is a semiconductor matrix located between two copper cores. This cable will prevent any pipes from freezing during periods of low temperatures.

During the cold season, thaws occur, during which water from the water enters the channels and pipes. Then it moves into the storm drain,

where it freezes and turns into ice.

To prevent the formation of ice plugs in the storm drain, they are placed in storm water inlets located under the drain risers. This way, ice jams will not form in the heated system, and if they form, you can quickly get rid of them.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

You will learn about the purpose, design and consequences of a storm drain failure from the video:

The process of installing storm drainage will not seem so complicated after viewing this material:

Despite the fact that storm drainage is a complex engineering system, even a person who is not burdened with deep knowledge of construction can create it. It is worth following all the advice exactly and the storm drainage system around a private house will work flawlessly.

Please write comments in the block below. Tell us about your own experience in organizing a storm sewer system. Ask questions, share your impressions of reading and information useful for site visitors, leave photos on the topic.

Does water from rain accumulate on the property and cause inconvenience to residents? So, it's time to install a storm drain. Do-it-yourself storm drainage in a wooden house is carried out in compliance with certain rules. The sewer system has a complex structure of: trays, pipes, wells and storm water inlets. All of them must be installed correctly. How to assemble a rainwater system with your own hands and what you need for this we will tell you in this article.

When precipitation occurs, it accumulates on paths, near the foundation and in other places on the site. Getting to the base of the house, water gradually destroys it. Experts conducted a study that showed that houses without storm drainage will last 30-40 years less than those where the owners installed the system immediately after construction.

You can direct moisture from precipitation in the right direction and prevent it from getting onto the foundation by properly installing the drainage system. Do-it-yourself storm drainage is performed in 70 cases out of 100 after the construction of a wooden house from timber. The reason for this is the simplicity of the design and speed of assembly, even armed only with theoretical knowledge.

Its design and installation resembles the external part of a domestic sewer. The only difference is the connection of the household structure to the pipes located inside the house. Let's talk in more detail about how to do the work correctly.

Three ways to install storm drains

Based on the installation method, storm drains can be divided into 3 types:

1. As the water flows down, it goes directly into the drainage pipe. But in this case, the foundation drainage must be installed without errors and from pipes of a cross-section sufficient for the load. The main advantage of this installation is the ability to save on components. But water will splash and fall on the walls of a wooden house, and this is not acceptable. In addition, silting of the drainage pipe will occur 2-3 times faster.
2. This common method of storm drainage is performed using a sequential design of external trays. But in winter, the sewage system freezes, and in the spring, an ice crust may form on the blind area. The main advantage of such a storm drain is the ease of installation with your own hands.
3. The third method of installing a storm drain is no less popular and do-it-yourself installation will be discussed below in this article. The design includes rainwater inlets, which are located separately under each roof drain. Stormwater inlets are connected by pipes into a single circuit in the ground. Water is discharged outside the site without affecting the drainage system and reducing its load. It fits best into the design of a wooden house and will not damage the landscape.

The main stages of installing a storm drain

All work must begin with drawing up a diagram (a similar one can be seen in the photo above). A stormwater system diagram is needed in order to calculate and purchase the required amount of materials and to avoid errors during installation.

When calculating the storm drainage system, the number of risers in the roof drainage system is taken into account. How many storm water inlets are needed will depend on this. The molding of the pipes is taken into account depending on the size of the perimeter of the wooden house. At this stage, you need to decide at what depth the storm drain will be laid. A sewer system is laid at a depth greater than the freezing of the soil, which will be functional all year round, shallower and shallow only in the warm season.

On modern roofs, a heating system is installed, which makes the ice melt in the winter; on such roofs, the system must be installed deeper than 1-1.5 m.

An example diagram can be seen in the figure in this article. Only after this can you begin independent installation.

Preparatory stage of installation of the system

It is necessary to mark and dig a trench for laying pipes. The depth of the trench is calculated for each area independently. It depends on the freezing of the soil. The trench should be 30-50 cm below the freezing level. These extra centimeters are needed for laying pipes and sand cushion. The width depends on the cross-section of the selected pipe; it should be more than 10-15 cm to simplify the installation of the sand cushion.

If it is not possible to dig a trench of the required depth, you can lay the pipes at a shallower level, having previously insulated them with a special material.

You need to purchase pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm, you can take more, but you will have to dig a trench deeper and wider. The storm drain will operate by gravity, so you need to install a slight slope of 1-2 cm/m.

Storm drain inspection wells are purchased based on each bend and branch of the system. They should also be covered with insulation and equipped with special hatches. If the distance from the drain or sewer to the house is more than 10 m, then this passage should also be equipped with inspection wells.

If rainwater will be used for domestic needs and discharged to the site, then the sewage system is done so that the initial accumulation is in the collector.

Manholes need to be installed, but there is a installation device without them. In this case, holes are cut into the pipe through which some of the water from the system will seep into the ground. But it will be impossible to clear the silt from the storm drains.

The pipes are fastened together tightly, all seams are coated with sealant or waterproof glue.

When the pipes and collector are laid, a vertical drain is installed to the place where the water will accumulate. This drain is connected to rain funnels (storm inlets), and they should be installed slightly below the main level of the path. Stormwater inlets should be placed and directed so that water from the roof flows in its direction.

There are roofs, for example gable roofs, where the rainwater inlet is located only on one side and there is no way to connect the drain pipe directly to the funnel. In these you need to make a special guide elbow. It serves as a guide for water to the drain. Such complex structures are equipped with special gutters and water flows through them to the side where there is a drain.

The water collector and trays are located at a shallow depth, only 50-60 cm. The water that enters the system is not clean, so sand traps are placed in the system from the drainpipes to the receiving trays. These are the same trays, but with a special grid system. You can see the system in more detail in the video:

The video shows a selection of photographic materials about the step-by-step work. You can see how pipes and trays are connected, a trench for laying, etc.

In front of the porch and the entrance line to the garage, you need to make “door systems”; they play the role of water intake trays. These are decorated on top with iron or plastic grilles.

You should not bury the sewage system immediately after its installation; first, a test run is carried out. To do this, pour a bucket of water into the storm drain and see if there are pipes leaking somewhere, and how well gravity flows. Particular care is taken to check the places where the pipes are connected to storm water inlets and gutters near the base of the house.

A dacha area where water is needed, since the beds and plantings need to be moistened, should not be isolated using sewerage; it would be more advisable to lay out special plastic paths with cells along the paths of the dacha. It’s easy to make a path, since the parts are connected to each other with locks. The large cell allows water to pass through and does not prevent its evaporation. Despite its fragility, the country path is designed to bear a weight of up to 200 kg. And the ground underneath continues to “breathe.” A country path costs from 120 rubles/m2.

Installing a storm drain in a wooden house is not just an additional device for convenience, but a necessity. The tree is in contact with the foundation and if wastewater gets into the structure, destruction will occur very quickly.

You can install a sewer system not only on your own, but also by resorting to the services of professionals.

Price for installation of storm drainage

Experts offer the buyer two types of installation: with and without material. The first option involves a specialist coming to the site, drawing up a diagram and fully calculating the materials, purchasing and installation. This is convenient for the buyer. In addition, companies have contracts with large suppliers and components will be cheaper. Let's consider the cost of various services for installing wastewater sewerage in the form of a table:

*Prices may vary depending on region.

With a simple calculation, it will become clear that the installation will be expensive for the home owner. By doing all the work yourself, you will not only save money, but you will also be sure that all work is done conscientiously and the system is completely sealed and works properly.

When buying a plot and a house outside the city, you need to take care of many things. Security systems, fire control, territory security, landscaping. In the hustle and bustle of things, such things as drainage of wastewater from the territory are forgotten. The accumulation of melt water negatively affects the soil of the house and the land. Storm drains cope with this task perfectly. What is it and how does it affect life in your home - further in the article.

A storm drainage system is the main means of removing rain and melt water from a site during the operation of a residential building on it. The accumulation of large amounts of water after rain or remnants of melted snow has a direct impact on the yield, condition and destruction of building elements. To avoid destruction of the foundation, cracks and chips in the elements of a private house, they install a storm drain, which is popularly called a “storm drain.” Storm drainage consists of various pipes, siphons, plugs, etc. These elements are included in its design and are taken into account in strict order during installation. For this type of drainage of excess water from the site, there is one goal - to get rid of excess moisture in a single stream, directing it to the sewer.

In a private house, this must be taken into account when modeling the site. When creating a model, you can position the storm drain so that it does not create inconvenience.

The entire storm sewer system consists of elements whose installation is best left to professionals. There are 3 types of storm sewer systems: open, closed and mixed. When installing it yourself, you must strictly follow all the rules for combining elements and fastening.

Features of stormwater types:

1. Open type. Often used on private plots. Using a special solution, a certain system of channels into the soil is created. Covered with special grilles. They are removable. Forging trellises can go perfectly with the landscape on the site.
2. Closed type. Used in areas with large areas. All elements are installed in the ground. Water passes through such a sewer and is pumped out of it using a pump. This type of sewage system is installed not just at the dacha, but throughout the entire countryside village.
3. Mixed type. Water collection occurs on the surface of the earth, and its distillation occurs underground. Storm drains are installed in such a way that water flows through them independently.

Installation and installation of this type of drain can be point or linear. Point installation helps to collect all the water on the roof. The drain and pipes are a kind of conductor of water in this system. Rain and melted snow fall into the storm inlet opening and go into the well at a certain slope. Water leaves the site through pipes located around it or is absorbed by the soil. The well must have some control over the water level in case of large accumulations. This type of sewer can also be on the ground, with a grate installed on it to prevent contamination from entering it.

With linear installation, sewerage is used as a continuation of point installation, or as a separate system for water drainage. They like to install such sewerage using road directions.

Storm drainage is wastewater disposal: the importance of the scheme

Before you make storm drains, you need to decide on the layout of it. The location is chosen based on places with large accumulations of water. Most often, these are places with vertical drains. Under them it is necessary to install a cone-shaped device for collecting water. Therefore, the zero point in the coordinates of the water drainage installation will be the point of its accumulation.

Before installing this entire system, a diagram is drawn and all the main dimensions are entered.

All water collectors are combined. Later they are connected using a gutter to the well. This is how all the water drains from the roof. Wells are selected based on the material that is used in the manufacture of such a structure. The most economical option is made of brick, and the more expensive one is made of polymer.

What is taken into account in the scheme:

• Pipe parameters: length, width, material;
• How many fittings are needed for installation;
• Number of water collectors;
• Number of drainage wells.

At the moment, polymer materials are the leaders in application. It is recommended to install solid containers. But a metal well will have to be assembled, and this procedure will have to be done repeatedly.

Necessary elements and installation of storm drainage in a private house

External storm drainage in the house is a protector of the soil, crops and building. When the ground is soft and wet, the building itself becomes unstable and dangerous. It may settle or tilt, which will place greater stress on the walls and may be dangerous for the people living in it.

What completes the storm drain:

1. Gutter or tray. They are located on or under the ground. Mounted at an angle to the drain. Using trays, water is directed to the drain and outside the site.
2. Storm water inlet. Collects water from surfaces located above the ground - roofs and canopies. Installed under water drain pipes. They, like baskets, collect all the water and transport it to the right place.
3. Wells for inspection. Such a device is designed to determine the degree of contamination of the drain.
4. Garbage catcher. Installed on top of drains to remove particles clogging the drain.

When installing a storm drain, you need to confirm the presence of drainpipes and water drainage systems. A trench is dug at a certain angle. Its bottom is compacted and the pillow is filled. In this case, the use of drainage is not excluded. A pit is dug to install a catch basin, and a container or reservoir made of concrete is placed. Pipes are placed on the cushion, connected and sealed. The system is ready for use.

A debris catcher is installed at the joints. And a viewing hatch is installed on the bends.

The work is checked and installation errors are identified experimentally. Everything is covered with soil and covered with gratings. It is in this order that the water drainage system is installed in a private house. The roofs must be united by a single drainage system - this option is called a herringbone. If the sewerage system is installed correctly, then its use will be completely invisible to the owner, and slush and puddles will disappear from the site to the delight of loved ones.

Storm sewer installation and technology

It is better to entrust the installation of storm drains to people with extensive experience in such work. But if you have to install it yourself, you need to remember about the process technology. For example, when installing a drain, it is necessary to take into account the side on which the slope is made. It should be done in the direction of the water flow.

Things to consider:

1. In addition to the material, its location is also taken into account. For example, it is better to avoid a large number of turns and angular placement.
2. The hermetically sealed connection allows the entire system to be reliably protected from excess moisture. In the absence of tightness, water will seep into the ground or accumulate in the wrong places, which leads to the complete uselessness of the drain.
3. When sloping, the main rule is not to retain water. It must be taken into account that in winter the water freezes quickly. Large temperature changes provide it in large quantities, and frost freezes it. This further leads to drain clogging.
4. Before installation, the quantity of all elements is taken into account. Even debris protection features are included.

Since the work takes place under the constant influence of moisture, you need to choose a material that is resistant to this element - smooth and durable. It is better not to use corrugated pipes - they will become clogged more often than usual. If the pipeline is long, then it is necessary to install more wells to check for leaks or blockages. This is necessary for timely repair and cleaning.

Storm sewer system: care

There is no need to constantly call a specialist to clean and care for your storm drain. You can do this yourself. After heavy rains, it is necessary to clean the trays and gutters from sand and dirt. It is necessary to constantly clean the moisture and rain receivers and follow the operating instructions. If water begins to accumulate and it seems that the system is not doing its job, then it is repaired.

Repair and replacement of fault:

• The storm drain is opened and inspected;
• Damaged elements are replaced with new ones;
• Test the system;
• Cover with soil;

The work is done very quickly to avoid flooding the area with water, especially if the function of the sewerage system includes water purification. A water seal that helps relieve the water level will be an excellent aid during repairs. It is necessary to take into account the durability of elements when working with water. Any material under its influence will deteriorate and rust.

Instead of rusty parts, new plastic parts are installed.

Storm sewer installation (video)

Considering the beneficial properties of this method of collecting excess water from the site, you do not notice its disadvantages at all. With proper operation and timely care and repair, they will not interfere with your life. Water will disappear from the site as if it never appeared, and the reliability of the walls and foundation of the house will be under control. Moreover, when cleaning such a sewer, you don’t have to worry about the plants on the site - there will be no excess moisture or rotting, its location can be taken into account at the project stage, which will preserve the design and landscape. Using this system in a private home will forever relieve headaches in the spring and after autumn rains. The house will stand securely and the harvest will delight you.

Examples of storm drains (photos)

In total, there are 2 types of drainage systems: point type and channel type. The first option involves drainage from the roof and yard directly into the channels due to an artificially created slope. In order to create the necessary slopes, you will have to completely redo the entire yard, but if you already have tiles laid, foundations and other exterior elements made, it’s too late.

The installation of a channel-type storm sewer is much more complex. These are far from trays on the roof and several pipes, as beginners think. Some of the main components are:

• technical openings for cleaning and inspection wells;
• underground drainage pipes, plastic or concrete funnels;
• hydraulic valves, risers made of galvanized metal;
• receivers, collectors, gutters on the building and underground.

The bulk of the canals are underground. It is quite difficult to design and implement, but if you know a few basic rules of the builder, you can do it yourself and not use the expensive services of companies.

We are constructing the ground part of the system

You will need to work directly with the entire territory of the yard, not just the house. The storm sewer system of a country house consists of 3 parts: storm drainage elements (thanks to which they will be directed in the right direction), flow collection items (gutters, underground pipes, funnels, containers) and a recycling system. In order for all this to work flawlessly, you need to choose the right angles of inclination, make the necessary connections, and make technical holes for troubleshooting. Let's take a closer look at why do-it-yourself storm drainage is considered one of the most difficult processes.

Step 1 Calculation of the required materials.

For the roof we will need risers made of galvanized metal 150 mm in diameter, gutters 160 mm made of plastic (depending on the angle of the roof), metal fastenings, anchor bolts 200 mm. This is a calculation for a temperate climate zone with average precipitation of 600-900 mm per year. According to SNiP, drainage can occur into the central sewer system, into a container, or simply outside the yard. Consider the option of diverting it outside the site or storing it for later watering. We will need 8 more receivers into which the gutters along the site will converge (it would be better to choose 250 mm).

Step 2 We fasten the risers.

You can make any number of risers, but remember, the less often they stand, the more water will accumulate in the gutters, it will spill out and clog them more. As a rule, the calculation of the quantity is done in this way: 1 riser is placed on 1 corner of the roof. That is, if you have a regular gable roof, then for 1 house you get 4 galvanized pipes. You can install plastic ones, but they can withstand heavy loads very poorly; plastic cracks after a few years in frost or sunlight. It is best to fasten the risers with brackets and anchor them to a concrete or brick wall. 1 fastening per 2 meters will be enough.

Step 3 We fasten the gutters

Please note that the greater the angle of the roof slope, the larger the gutters you need to install, as water will “jump out of them. It is best to take with a reserve, for example 180-200 mm, to protect yourself from splashes. As a rule, they are not attached with anchors, like a riser, but directly with a metal hook that is screwed to the roof rafters. But it all depends on the roof design. You can take a small self-tapping screw or metal stems 70 centimeters long. The main thing is to position the element so that the entire amount of water gets into it. You can pour out 10 liters and check the work. As for the general slope, it is not needed here, since outwardly the gutter will not look flush with the roof - it will be ugly. A slope of 0.1-0.2% will be more than enough; if you want faster drainage, install a channel 2-3 cm deeper and the water will flow faster into the riser due to the large drop.

Step 4 We place the receivers under the risers.

It would be important to make a receiving funnel that will catch everything that falls from the storm drain pipe - it will not create splashes. The receiver should be located already underground, since if it is made level, splashes will fly out. The side side is approximately 35-40 centimeters - it is better to take it with a reserve, the cost does not differ much.

Making the underground part of the system

Now we move on to the underwater part of the iceberg, which, according to tradition, is 6-7 times larger than the above-ground part. Here we will have to make a high-quality network of water trays and pipes for transporting it to the central drainage ditch. The entire network should be made with a minimum of turns, without changes in the angle of inclination within one “branch”. Let's look at the process step by step.

Step 1 Connection from risers to receivers.

We lay trays from the receiver to the pipe that will collect water and direct it to the central branch. We will have exactly the same number of trays as risers. You can lay open structures that will collect water from the yard, or you can use closed ones (the same pipes) - they will remove water only from the roof. We take open trays that are at least 25 centimeters wide and 15 centimeters deep, with a metal lid (in case you have to drive a car on top of them). Trays that are too large cannot be made, since in case of heavy rain the channel must clean itself; if the water does not completely fill and flows slowly, it will have to be cleaned often. We bury them flush with the ground, you can deepen them by 3 centimeters.

Step 2 We bring the trays to the central pipe.

It will lie on both sides of the site, since then we can make the slope angle larger. A straight pipe parallel to the house and the site is laid in the middle of the yard. Water flows into it from the house, the perimeter and remote areas of the yard, if necessary (we additionally throw trays on the other side). The trays should fit flush to the pipe so as not to interfere with the transportation of water. The pipe is laid at an angle of 0.4%, that is, per 1 meter the linear difference should be at least 4 centimeters. Naturally, we choose the lowest point of the site - we will begin to divert water to it.

Step 3 We lay an outlet ditch.

It will contain 2 pipes that lie parallel to the walls of the house on both sides. Thus, we collect water from the entire area, its flow is very large, so the diameter of the ditch should be at least 45-50 centimeters - here the more, the better. It can be laid at an angle of 0.25% to reduce excavation work. We choose a discharge location, preferably the lowest point of the site (otherwise we will have to dig a lot), bury a pipe, cut into it with two central pipes - the job is done.

Important: remember that with an autonomous sewage system you cannot discharge into a septic tank. In a year, approximately 60 cubic meters of water flows from a plot of 30x30 meters - your drainage system cannot cope with this volume, and the septic tank will purify previously normal water. Rainwater drainage should fall into a container of 5-6 cubic meters or be discharged outside the site. Then it will be possible to install a deep-well pump and use the container during drought to water the garden or garden.

A few secrets on how to increase comfort in your home

Your system will already work, but if it can do it better, why not take the chance? Now we will look at several construction tricks that will significantly increase your comfort during and after rain.

1. We install inspection wells. Few people want to fool around with this seemingly unnecessary thing, but it would be better to make them 1 for each channel and 1 for each central pipe. The fact is that branches, leaves, pine needles, garbage and other particles will still end up in the storm drain, and then you will have to disassemble everything to clean it or walk around in puddles. 1 inspection well will solve the problem: you can clean the channel in just a few minutes!
2. We make curls on the risers. Are you annoyed by the loud noise of water on galvanized surfaces at night? We put 2 curls on the riser, preferably plastic ones, the pressure will be much less, the blow below will also decrease by 2-3 times, the squelching will not be heard.
3. Risers can be made not only at corners, but in any convenient place, choose a place around the perimeter of the house without windows located nearby, take the pipe there, it would be better to cut the catchers into 2 parts.
4. Installation of storm drains is best done with testing during the process. Reserve several buckets of water for a rough inspection of the pressure force and the angle of inclination of the installed channel.
5. When placing trays, pay attention to the soil, You definitely need to make a cushion of crushed stone or sand, or even better - a screed of 5-6 centimeters so that they do not sag over time. It is also better to concrete the pipe and ditch, since water that can flow in will constantly wash it away, changing the angle of inclination over time.